Someone has a link or something? Does it track your eyes with the camera or is the RGB sensor somehow used? Thanks.
bcam117 said:
Someone has a link or something? Does it track your eyes with the camera or is the RGB sensor somehow used? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you're referring to the RGB LED on the front which is the notification light. It means the light can change to practically any color to have different colors for different notifications.
As for the software features that utilize face tracking, I'm sure it uses the front facing camera to do it.
On gsmarena it's listed as a sensor.
bcam117 said:
On gsmarena it's listed as a sensor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah. I see it. I'm pretty certain they're referring to the notification light which is an RGB LED.
Maverick777 said:
Ah. I see it. I'm pretty certain they're referring to the notification light which is an RGB LED.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, they don't.
http://www.capellamicro.com.tw/EN/products_list.php?mode=19
DJ Palmis said:
No, they don't.
http://www.capellamicro.com.tw/EN/products_list.php?mode=19
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for some info, searching in google always ends up with LED, youtube does the same, so may be its related with notification part.
bala_gamer said:
thanks for some info, searching in google always ends up with LED, youtube does the same, so may be its related with notification part.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would be surprised if it were used for something more than just setting the backlight.
At most it handles screen color temperature... I think nothing more.
i guess RGB LED means the LED emits Red Green and Blue light!!
The RGB sensor is the notification led, probably the word "sensor" is a translation errror. and yes R stands for red, G for green and B for blue so you can expect the led can display a rainbow of colors and using the right apps you can adjust the color for each type of notification to your liking.
LOL
You kidding me, aren't you?
nope it is not a typo. check this page out http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d800/features01.htm this is what it says under the part rgb sensor
"Advanced Scene Recognition System with 91K-pixel RGB sensor
Nikon's revolutionary Advanced Scene Recognition System, introduced with the flagship D4 camera, is also employed in the D800/D800E. At its core is a 91K-pixel RGB sensor that meticulously analyzes each scene with the fine resolution. The RGB sensor can recognize your scene's colors and brightness with unprecedented precision, then use that information to implement various automatic controls and give you more natural-looking results. The real breakthrough, however, is that the sensor can detect human faces with startling accuracy when shooting through the optical viewfinder. Along with face detection, detailed scene analysis is utilized to support more accurate autofocus, auto exposure and i-TTL flash exposure results in a diverse range of compositional and lighting situations. The improved subject tracking is most noticeable when using 3D-tracking, which can maintain a focus on moving subjects smaller in size than with previous generations."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
now we know what makes smart stay possible ?
3lflre said:
nope it is not a typo. check this page out ... this is what it says under the part rgb sensor
now we know what makes smart stay possible ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Smart Stay uses the front camera
So let me get this straight....
So samsung galaxy s3 uses the front camera's image sensor and then processes that image using the RGB sensor for detecting faces in it for tracking??....All of this process in real time??
Answer here...
bcam117 said:
Someone has a link or something? Does it track your eyes with the camera or is the RGB sensor somehow used? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Galaxy S III has an interesting add-on - an RGB ambient light sensor. We've contacted Samsung about it and they say typical ambient light sensors detect only green light (it's the one the human eye is most sensitive to), but they don't work too well under fluorescent lighting. The RGB sensor detects all visible light and supposedly makes better adjustments to the screen brightness.
No no no! It's not the led light! It's not face tracking! It's the light sensor that detects brightness around you then adjusts screen to match! It's one if the best features in samsung phones as most sensors respond to some wavelengths better than others making crappy screen brightness adjustments in fluorescent indoor light but an rgb sensor detects much more accurately the ambient light!
woops, wrong thread
Holy crap, been a long time since I've seen you around! Captivate days bro
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Related
Whenever I am recording video it seems to be constantly going in and out of focus. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
Care to expand so we can help?
Sent from my SGH-I777 using XDA App
You couldn't ask both your questions in one thread? Post some examples.
I'm not sure what else to say besides it oscillates constantly, meaning fractions of a second.
Miami_Son said:
You couldn't ask both your questions in one thread? Post some examples.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think they should be in the same thread because they are different issues. Perhaps they are related, but then it would be do to a hardware issue.
What's the preferred means of posting examples?
If your having problems with both stills and videos, then it is likely related. You can attach jpg files to your post. You can upload vids to YouTube and post the links here.
Here are a few example shots.
The 1st shot is with the camera settings at default. The 2nd shot has anti-shake on. The 3rd shot has auto-contrast enabled.
As you can see they are all grainy and blurry even though I'm taking an image of something that is not moving.
The light produced from an overhead halogen. However, the pictures turn out similar under standard incandescent, fluorescent, or any other non-natural lighting. Also I tried out several other settings without any improvement (e.g. setting white balance to incandescent, setting the scene to party indoor, using macro focus instead of auto, etc.).
That's sensor grain. It happens when there is insufficient light as the sensor has to work harder to expose the scene and it heats up. Also, since the scene is so dim the camera is using a slower shutter speed, which results in some camera shake that causes a less sharp photo. Can you take a pic with the flash on? Also, if you are expecting Canon-level photography from this (or any cell phone camera) expect to be disappointed more often than not.
Miami_Son said:
That's sensor grain. It happens when there is insufficient light as the sensor has to work harder to expose the scene and it heats up. Also, since the scene is so dim the camera is using a slower shutter speed, which results in some camera shake that causes a less sharp photo. Can you take a pic with the flash on? Also, if you are expecting Canon-level photography from this (or any cell phone camera) expect to be disappointed more often than not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks so far. I will try it with the flash on. I have taken pictures in a lot of indoor light and if anything is moving the whole image is blurry. Sometimes it looks like the air is shimmering.
Perhaps what I need to do is to use something other than auto ISO?
DLarva said:
Cool, thanks so far. I will try it with the flash on. I have taken pictures in a lot of indoor light and if anything is moving the whole image is blurry. Sometimes it looks like the air is shimmering.
Perhaps what I need to do is to use something other than auto ISO?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, just like Miami_Son said, auto flash will make the difference. That or bright enough lighting. Try it during the day time.
Sent from my páhhōniē
Like I said, in low light the camera will pick a slower shutter speed, which causes camera shake and blur of anything moving. What seems well lit to the eye is different for a camera sensor. Either use flash or turn on more lights. You can try turning up the ISO, but that can also increase grain.
Record video in 720p and the autofocus issues should go away.
(Sorry for my bad English!)
Hi!
My Galaxy S2 i9100 and my Galaxy Tab 7.7 P6800 has
a built-in infrared LED (look at my attachment).
Is it possible to use this as a remote control for TV, etc.?
Exist an App for that? I can not find the right app.
The App "Smart Cover" uses the Infrared LED to detect
whether cover is closed.
i think it is impracticable because the range of the ir... if you find an app to control the led, you will need to stay so close to the iv receptor to work.
I think the LED is bright enough for a few meters.
It only looks dark in the picture.
It would have to be tested, but I'm not a programmer.
Dr.InSide said:
(Sorry for my bad English!)
Hi!
My Galaxy S2 i9100 and my Galaxy Tab 7.7 P6800 has
a built-in infrared LED (look at my attachment).
Is it possible to use this as a remote control for TV, etc.?
Exist an App for that? I can not find the right app.
The App "Smart Cover" uses the Infrared LED to detect
whether cover is closed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ehm...
As far as I know there is no IR there unless yours is different (or proximity sensor doubles as IR)
Regards...
The light in my proximity sensor is red, not white. And that too, it's so dim that you can't spot it at all during daytime.. -.-
If you see a red light, it's not IR.
IR can't be seen with the naked eye.
SufiSam said:
The light in my proximity sensor is red, not white. And that too, it's so dim that you can't spot it at all during daytime.. -.-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IR LED looks on photos white-violett. Test it with your own TV remote control ...
shayne77 said:
If you see a red light, it's not IR.
IR can't be seen with the naked eye.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is wrong! With human eyes looks some powerful IR LED extremely dark red.
It also depends on the wavelength of the infrared LED.
I don't deny that there is a proximity sensor! The fact is, it includes an IR LED.
But the big question is: can you switch the sensor fast enough to send
remote control signals with it ...
And I've tested it with black electrical tape. If you stick the tape on light sensor,
the proximity sensor does not work. The proximity sensor is a combination of
the infrared LED and the light sensor. So you could even use the light sensor
for learning remote control signals.
It's only a matter of feasibility. That could be a very interesting test project.
But I'm no programmer.
This is correct, the IR-LED is from the proximity sensor, most phones use IR-LEDs with 850nm wavelength. These IR-LEDs are not single wavelength (like lasers) they usually bleed into adjacent wavelengths all the way down to 700nm (Red color) that is why some times they can be seen. The IR-LED is directly controlled by the proximity sensor, and in most phones is only active during a call. The only way to control the IRLED would be by accessing the sensor through I2C commands. Also these proximity sensor pulse the IR-LED usually for a few us to up to ms, but the timing control is not very flexible. Android doesnt provide an API to directly control all the prox sensor function so this would have to be done at the driver level.
Dr.InSide said:
IR LED looks on photos white-violett. Test it with your own TV remote control ...
This is wrong! With human eyes looks some powerful IR LED extremely dark red.
It also depends on the wavelength of the infrared LED.
I don't deny that there is a proximity sensor! The fact is, it includes an IR LED.
But the big question is: can you switch the sensor fast enough to send
remote control signals with it ...
And I've tested it with black electrical tape. If you stick the tape on light sensor,
the proximity sensor does not work. The proximity sensor is a combination of
the infrared LED and the light sensor. So you could even use the light sensor
for learning remote control signals.
It's only a matter of feasibility. That could be a very interesting test project.
But I'm no programmer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, to shoot the question right away; is there a way to properly calibrate your mobile phone screen?
I've searched the forums and googled and haven't found anything I was looking for.
Preferably being able to load color profiles like sRGB or Adobe RGB directly.
I'm not reffering to simple RGB settings or Gamma tweaking.
The reason I'm asking is that I work in 16 bit float mostly and got a perfectly calibrated IPS NEC nicely working with a 12bit LUT and also 2 calibrated TN panel screens.
The final image goes to 8bit PNGs and JPGs with sRGB embedded.
Now the difference between the final outcome on the IPS screen and the TN ones and the one displayed on 4 different android mobile phones I got available for testing is extremely big. So big, that just everything is off.
I thought that embedding color profiles might cause this but using other common profiles or none at all still were extremely off.
I'd like to point out that the image is not necessarily bad, it's just wrong knowing how the end result looks on perfectly calibrated monitors at home or at work.
I'm just surprised that there is close to no information available on how to properly view imagery with embedded profiles considering that the internet is full of fancy mobile phone screen tests and benchmarks nitpicking every single micro millimeter on a screen light years away from normal use conditions.
(At least they don't take into account that probably 60-80% of the images average users view on their mobiles are crappily compressed Facebook .jpgs and the rest photographs shot on mobile cameras..but that's not what the thread is about.)
Is there really no way to counter factory presets?
It's like with TVs on factory or even worse shop presets with shiny oversaturated colors and crushed contrasts, but on TVs you got the chance to turn the crap off at last.
Any idea or guidance would be highly appreciated.
Bump.
I need to calibrate my phone's screen color too, I know I can't expect miracle from the screen of my Xperia Mini, but at least I want to have more natural colors on the screen, Bravia Engine doesn't help at all in color quality, it only increases the sharpness, contrast, and saturation, no better color reproduction at all.
I have SE Hazel, an SE proprietary OS powered phone (DB3350v2), with dispdriver.dat tweaking (only editing the strings for RGB gamma settings inside it), I can make it reproduces far better and more natural colors than my Xperia Mini.
I don't want to make my Xperia Mini screen has the same color reproduction as a calibrated IPS panel, I only want, at least it can reproduces more natural colors than it does now, I also know that even the same phone model don't always have exactly the same screen color reproduction.
From my searches so far, colour management seems to be completely missing in Android.
I'm a photographer and would like this too. I want to use my tablet to review photos, but the colour is way off.
flar2 said:
From my searches so far, colour management seems to be completely missing in Android.
I'm a photographer and would like this too. I want to use my tablet to review photos, but the colour is way off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my phone display produces too strong blue and red, less green, it makes most photos look far from natural.
Hi guys
Can someone help me out understand something? When I bought the pace I really was not aware that it had such a low resolution when the watch was not active. I know it uses a transreflective LCD.
I understand that amoled screens waste more battery for lighter colors because black does not turn on any pixels.
LCDs on the other hand waste more battery regardless of color because it is the backlight that consumes battery right?
What about this transreflective LCD? I don't understand why the watch uses an 8 bit color pallet on the lockscreen and why does this save battery? Shouldn't the backlight be the only thing that consumes more battery? If it is just displaying and image (whether it is high or low resolution), shouldn't the battery consumption be the same for both?
Can someone clarify this for me? I tried searching but could not find anything..
Transflective mode reflects ambient light without using the back light hence the name.
nupi said:
Transflective mode reflects ambient light without using the back light hence the name.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that, but that's not what I asked. On traditional LCDs it is the backlight that consumes battery regardless of the resolution correct? On transflective screens, whether the backlight is active or not, why does the watch switch to low resolution on lockscreen and why does that affect battery? Because on traditional LCDs the resolution displayed does not affect battery right?
I don't think it switches to low resolution (otherwise small text would become unreadable which clearly is not the case) . It's just colors looking washed out because now it's only reflecting light.
nupi said:
I don't think it switches to low resolution (otherwise small text would become unreadable which clearly is not the case) . It's just colors looking washed out because now it's only reflecting light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know it it switches to low resolution but from what i read it changes to an 8-bit color pallet, that is why it looks "low quality". What I wanted to know is why does that save battery since traditional LCDs don't have this issue..
This interested me as well and I found out it uses a MiP (memory-in-pixel) transflective LCD display (LPM013M091A). I haven't done much research on how exactly it saves power between those two modes but basically it's a memory limitation in a display itself so it switches between 8 or 262k color palette. As I understand it's not 8-bit color but actually just 8 colors in low power so that's why it only looks like low resolution.
migueldbr said:
I don't know it it switches to low resolution but from what i read it changes to an 8-bit color pallet, that is why it looks "low quality". What I wanted to know is why does that save battery since traditional LCDs don't have this issue..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it just uses the 8 color mode to improve contrast and be more readable in low light as the background light is off...
I don't think so. This is just how MiP displays work. They save power similarly to e-paper displays like the ones used in Pebble watches.
According to specifications in MiP mode (8 colors) the consumption is 0.8mW and in Normal Driving mode (262k colors) 9mW for still image and 13mW for moving image and backlight is unrelated and separate from display modes and contrast is the same but as I understand in MiP mode it can only display the maximum intensity pixel colors so it may look sometimes (depending on a watchface and ambient light) that contrast only seems better.
There are also MiP only mode displays as well. The one used in this watch is a hybrid type and it's just a hardware limitation in a display itself for these low power consumption LCDs.
Also maybe it's good to keep in mind that these also suffer from burn-ins if the same image is displayed for prolonged time so it might be prudent to change watchfaces from time to time.
lfom said:
I think it just uses the 8 color mode to improve contrast and be more readable in low light as the background light is off...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TumiBC said:
I don't think so. This is just how MiP displays work. They save power similarly to e-paper displays like the ones used in Pebble watches.
According to specifications in MiP mode (8 colors) the consumption is 0.8mW and in Normal Driving mode (262k colors) 9mW for still image and 13mW for moving image and backlight is unrelated and separate from display modes and contrast is the same but as I understand in MiP mode it can only display the maximum intensity pixel colors so it may look sometimes (depending on a watchface and ambient light) that contrast only seems better.
There are also MiP only mode displays as well. The one used in this watch is a hybrid type and it's just a hardware limitation in a display itself for these low power consumption LCDs.
Also maybe it's good to keep in mind that these also suffer from burn-ins if the same image is displayed for prolonged time so it might be prudent to change watchfaces from time to time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great info, thanks. But why 8 colors mode would use less power than 262k colors if it's the same resolution? Could you please link to the source of the power consumption in both color modes? TIA
EDIT: I've found this: http://www.j-display.com/product/pdf/Datasheet/6LPM013M091A_specification_ver03.pdf
So it seems that they are two completely different modes: MiP with 8 colors and transflective with 262k colors.
Yea, that's the display technical specifications. This is where I got the power consumption modes:
http://www.j-display.com/product/pdf/Leaflet/6LL_1.34_round_LPM013M091A.pdf
lfom said:
Great info, thanks. But why 8 colors mode would use less power than 262k colors if it's the same resolution? Could you please link to the source of the power consumption in both color modes? TIA
EDIT: I've found this: http://www.j-display.com/product/pdf/Datasheet/6LPM013M091A_specification_ver03.pdf
So it seems that they are two completely different modes: MiP with 8 colors and transflective with 262k colors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Xebeck said:
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
thesoupthief said:
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Xebeck said:
.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
thesoupthief said:
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Thanks...
I didn't wanna run out of my replacement period and then realise that I should have acted
Yes, this is not a problem, a reviewer showed how the camera reacted when photo was taken from two different angles, at one angle green color was dominant while on different angle it was not.
Xebeck said:
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Thank you for the explanation and the effort
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
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Thanks for the explanation! I'm having some problems in places with that type of lights but not when pointing to them, just taking a normal picture, same picture can have that yellow tint, or not, just changing from one camera to the other one or moving around the photo a little bit....