This is my first post after lurking for a while, normally it would be a question, but instead I have decided to post a mini-review of the Boxwave docing station.
The Boxwave Wizard docking station is a good looking, well packaged unit. It includes a wall charger and has a built in USB cable. The unit it self comes in two pieces. The construction seems very good, with no gaps in the plastic seams. It is rather light and moves on the desk easily. It would have been nice if Boxware would have weighted the base more and/or included feet that were made of stickier rubber to prevent the movement.
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The two pieces are the base unit and a clear backrest that just snaps into place. When the unit is plugged into an active USB port or the included power adapter is plugged in, a blue LED inside the base shines up through the clear backrest. It is one of those unnecessary features that add a nice touch to the look of the unit.
Placing the Wizard in the cradle is a straightforward affair. Just angle the unit to match the backrest and slide it down over the USB plug that sticks out from the bottom of the cradle. To remove, I have found it a little easier to tilt the unit forward a few degrees and then pull up on the Wizard. When the Wizard is in the cradle it will sit back about 15 degrees allowing you to easily see the screen from your desk chair.
While you can slide the Wizard open sitting in the Boxwave cradle, you cannot really use it to type as there is no facility to turn the cradle on it's side. The steep angle also prevents comfortable use for prolonged periods of time.
The Wizard will charge with just the USB cable plugged in although it will be slower than when the power adapter is plugged into the cradle.
Overall, I would rate this cradle as 'must have' accessory for the Wizard for those that need access to both charging and syncing and access to the Wizard screen all at the same time, without taking up too much desk space.
There is now a USB cradle that keeps the unit open or closed at keyboard horizontally for around US$29.
See PocketSolutions.com. I have no commercial or other interest in this site.
Cy
I have both cradles, and for my Cingular 8125, the horizontal cradle was a bit scary to use--the rubber strip on the 8125's back was thick and grippy enough that the unit required an uncomfortable amount of force to seat in or remove from the cradle.
By way of contrast, I *love* the vertical Boxwave cradle. I've used it daily for over a month.
-Rich
Echoloc8 said:
I have both cradles, and for my Cingular 8125, the horizontal cradle was a bit scary to use--the rubber strip on the 8125's back was thick and grippy enough that the unit required an uncomfortable amount of force to seat in or remove from the cradle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you describe how the USB port gets connected on the horizontal cradle? I looked at the photos on the website and it doesn't show how how it clips in and I can't imagine how it's done.
pterrell said:
Echoloc8 said:
I have both cradles, and for my Cingular 8125, the horizontal cradle was a bit scary to use--the rubber strip on the 8125's back was thick and grippy enough that the unit required an uncomfortable amount of force to seat in or remove from the cradle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you describe how the USB port gets connected on the horizontal cradle? I looked at the photos on the website and it doesn't show how how it clips in and I can't imagine how it's done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The USB port is inside the right-hand side of the cradle. You have to slide in the 8125 from the left, and it DOES take some lining up of the port and clip to seat it correctly.
I've had this cradle for over 3 months. Other than having to take an extra couple of seconds to make sure the USB port is lined up to the clip, I have absolutely no issues at all with it. I don't even mind using the 8125 in the horizontal (landscape mode -- actually gives me "hands-free" access to the keyboard to enter data).
I keep my 8125 hooked into the cradle all night and "grab-'n-go" on my way to work in the morning. Does a GREAT job of charging!!
Related
I am wondering if there already is a active carmount (so one that charges the unit and possibly 'extends' the usb port to hook up a wired GPS) available or announce for the Wizard/MDA Vario/K-Jam ....
I don't like the idea to plug a cable in-and-out the unit everytime....
Thanks,
Taco
Yes, go here: http://www.brodit.com/
Not in the US yet, but will be in a few weeks.
Looking forward to this... I wonder if I can just get one with a USB through port so I can use either a charger or a direct USB connection to my CarPC...
Terran
This is the ONE! I jst got off the phone with www.proclipsusa.com, she is calling brodit to find out if it's in the shipment that's on it's way. I'll wait.
KJAM active mount
itsmewhoelse said:
This is the ONE! I jst got off the phone with www.proclipsusa.com, she is calling brodit to find out if it's in the shipment that's on it's way. I'll wait.
KJAM active mount
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Ooooooooo
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I'm thininking here I can open the USB plug in the holder ( see 2 x screws ) and replace - that way I can either charge or USB ...
Fantastic
Terran
Or even 971650 Active Holder, Tilt Swivel
An active holder with a straight cable with open end for fixed installation and a cable with Molex adater system. The cables are to be connected inside the dashboard, this gives a discreet, neat installation without cables hanging over the interior.
You can choose to use the holder as an active holder only for charging, or to connect an adapter to the Molex connector for additional features. Then you can use the holder also for power supply of a GPS reciever, data transer or other own solutions.
12/24 Volt. The product is E-approved. Connect the power cable with a 1,5 A fuse. 2 A charger. Professional installation recommended. The holder is attached onto a tilt swivel and can be adjusted in order to avoid light reflection. Attach onto a ProClip Mounting Platform.
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Click to collapse
T
I like the keyboard extended, so that's why I want the other one. I've already got a laptop stand to mount it on, so it'll work out well for me.
I also plan on getting a Parrot as a friend just got one and he's my guinea pig. :O)
Thanks.
itsmewhoelse
Sorry for the off topic:
Is you're friend using the Parrot with a Wizard? Which Parrot is he using? Please report back how well it works I have been also thinking of getting tehe 3500 Color LCD car kit.
Thank you
I think he's got the 3000 or 3100? I'll have to ask and make sure. Believe me, as soon as he reports to me, I'll post on it. Yes, he's got a KJAM/Wizard.
marka2k said:
itsmewhoelse
Sorry for the off topic:
Is you're friend using the Parrot with a Wizard? Which Parrot is he using? Please report back how well it works I have been also thinking of getting tehe 3500 Color LCD car kit.
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If its any intrest I think the voice dial will work on the 3000... if I press send on the kit it brings up the voice pad thing... but I've not used it my self. I how ever have no idea how to access the menu on the Parot kit its self yet.
Terran
ccsnet said:
itsmewhoelse said:
whos this one by? got a link? cheers
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brodit.se
The Brodit range (including the new 'open' XDA mount) is here in the UK.
They'll also ship to the US.
http://www.dsldevelopments.com
They are very helpful, and do a screen mount for those who prefer it to the Dash mount which is car specific.
http://www.dsldevelopments.com/suctionmount.html.
See this post too:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=38678
I've fitted a Brodit active vertical mount & routed the cigarette lighter inside the dashboard to a 4 way that I've mounted in the glovebox. My Holux BT receiver is permanently plugged into its cigarette lighter which comes on when the ignition is turned on. The battery is removed. So if I want to go walking etc, I just unplug the receiver, put in the battery & off I go. The only challenge is the battery life of the vario - 4ish hours max with screen on all the time & BT on as well.
Tom Tom running on my Vario will only run in portrait, which is fine for me, which is why I chose the vertical mount.
The Vario/Mini S/9100 will not work with wired GPS receivers according to Holux UK tech support.
dont you find the brodit charger leads to be too short?
mine doesnt actually reach the socket unless i stretch it... not sure how you managed to get it into your glovebox
i'm getting my tomtom, brodit 9100 and snooper wired directly to battery next week so i guess i wont have to worry about it soon
The Brodit leads aren't very long, but I managed to get it to reach going through the central part of the dashboard under the radio/computer combo on my BMW. It is stretched a litttle, but I don't see it, it looks neat and it works great.
I've just discovered Tom Tom will run in landscape mode, but having used my Palm T3 in both portrait & landscape, I prefer portrait on the Vario as the bottom info doesn't take too much of the screen in portrait, but does in landscape.
I bought the horizontal Brodit Passive holder. Was not impressed. THe phone didnt fit well and the plastic was cheap and it actually snapped when I first put the phone in.
The Vertical one is great. Its made of thicker plastic and holds the phone. Even on the bouncy back roads I take it work.
I received my brodit car mount today and install it. I love my tomotom nav in landscape mode. because of the horizontal brodit won't let me closed the keyboard. I decided to buy the vertical one and turn it 90 degree counter-clockwise for landscape. Will take some pic and post it next week. 8)
Is there enough space in the Brodit active vertical mount to accomodate a thin (soft) velcro strip on the back of my K-Jam/Vario? Would this mess up the alignment with the mini-usb power connector?
Thanks!
Hi,
have you got a picture of the back of your device with the velcro on? Ill have a look and measure up a stock item: 968650 Holder to see if it would be ok (I suspect it might be if its not too thick, and like you say it is soft)
Cheers,
Bryson
Hi,
have you got a picture of the back of your device with the velcro on? Ill have a look and measure up a stock item: 968650 Holder to see if it would be ok (I suspect it might be if its not too thick, and like you say it is soft)
Cheers,
Bryson
I have a small cradle placed at the lower left corner of the windshield in my car.
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This arrangement worked quite well with the original evo since the power connector was at the bottom.
The new evo now has it on the side.
If you notice above, the flat spot of the connector is nearest the screen, not the bottom of the device.
Since I don't want to strain the existing cable or put additional strain on the jack, a 90 deg micro usb cord/adapter is necessary.
I found this on ebay -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-degree-r...976119?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item256fc511f7
OR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-5..._USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item41642d957a
This item appears to accept a micro usb and is just a dongle for micro usb to 90 deg micro usb.
Finally, a bit pricey, but will allow you to use a mini usb cable instead.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-mini-5p...689104?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item5ae6e2f0d0
I just ordered the 2nd one from the bottom as I already have a straight micro usb cable already routed in the car.
I'm open to any other suggestions. The part above should work, but if it doesn't, it's only $3 dollars.
Just wanted to give a small update.
The dongle ordered on ebay from china arrived the other day. Total length is about a foot.
It fits the car mount very well, is not in the way, and puts the least amount of strain on the phone's connect. Here' s a pic of the mount i'm using.
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/4020/63304416.jpg
i bought a completely new cable with the right angle connector so i could avoid the extra bulk of using an adaptor:
It's also available in LEFT ANGLE if you want the cable to come down instead of going up.
at Amazon in various lengths:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-3-Fe...HJDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338677526&sr=8-1
Actually, I had the cable just the right length for the old evo 4g. With the new one and the side, it wasn't long enough to reach. With this dongle/extension, there's plenty of length and slack.
lacrossev said:
i bought a completely new cable with the right angle connector so i could avoid the extra bulk of using an adaptor:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which dock is this?
^^That looks like a proclip mount.
You buy it in two parts, one that custom fits the car, the other the device.
http://www.proclipusa.com/
Too pricey for me though.
Which clip is that? I also have a ProClipUSA car adapter and phone adapter for my original EVO. I also have a body protector similar to what is pictured. So, what phone mount is that being used that can be used with the new EVO LTE?
the part that is attached to the car is indeed proclip, however the mount that the phone goes in to is from slipgrip. I used the ball joint from my old proclip touchpro 2 mount and made some light mods and screwed it in to the slipgrip mount. They do it for naked devices or in this case the sprint silicone sleeve. Used to have one for my ballistic HC evo 4g and it was excellent.
This 2 part mount (seen in first post) from arkon works great for the windshield mount.
http://www.amazon.com/Arkon-MG178-U...9K2E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338783678&sr=8-1
The part the holds the phone also has a socket hole to accept a 1/2" hole. Same size as used by garmin windshield/bean bag mounts. The holder is spring loaded and opens up to accept a rather wide device (specs on the arkon site). It is designed to grasp the phone in portrait mode, however can be rotated 360 deg to what ever position is appropriate.
Cool! Thanks guys! I'm thinking of turning my old EVO into a DashCam, and now I know I can get a SlipGrip mount for my new EVO with its case protector still on! Bonus: I get to still use my ProClipsUSA car mount!
I had a great ProClip mount for my Evo4G - it had a built in MicroUSB connector so I just slide the phone in and it was on charge. I modified it with a dremel and took the bottom off, then stretched it out until it could hold the EvoLTE. Not as elegent, but works until ProClip comes out with a mount designed for this phone.
I'll upload a picture next time I'm in the car.
The idea was to have a more ergonomic experience while reading off the Nook by using a wire with two buttons on one end and some kind of plug at the other to connect it to the Nook. Since using the USB would mean battery drain and having to run/stop some applications (like the fantastic USB mode by Renate), I tried connecting the hardware buttons directly. Thanks to dkuku and his dead motherboard I was able to do that. Here's how:
1. Locating the connection points. My Nook motherboard has a label layer with all the test points numbered. The interesting ones are:
T314 - common for all four hardware buttons on the sides
T309 - bottom left button
T310 - top right
T311 - top left
T312 - bottom right
I always hold the Nook in my left hand, so I remapped the right hand side buttons to Menu and Back. Therefore I decided to extend just the two left buttons.
2. The plug. I could not find a proper socket/plug pair small enough to fit into the Nook so I built my own. To avoid mechanical damages I decided to use small neodymium magnets as contacts. You can buy them online. I found some small ones - 2mm in diameter, 1mm thick. To make a plug and socket for two buttons we need 6 of them. To arrange them into identical patterns on the Nook face and in the plug itself I used 3 spent ballpoint cartridges that happened to be exactly 2mm wide inside so that the magnets would fit and the body of an automatic pencil that was just big enough to hold them together:
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The spaces between the cartridges were filled with epoxy. Then the sausage was cut into slices - about 2mm thick for the plug and 3mm for the socket. Then the magnets were pushed inside so that they would stick out a fraction of a milimeter.
Magnets cannot be soldered - they will lose their magnetic properties above certain temperature. Conductive glue must be used. I bought a small set for fixing rear window defrosters - a mixture of glue and silver filings. A drop into each tube holding a magnet will do. Then I covered the back of the socket/plug with epoxy to protect the more fragile conductive glue.
I decided to put the socket in the bottom right corner of the Nook frame - partly because I hold it with my left hand so that seemed natural, partly because it would fit in a small air pocket on the reverse side (I had to remove some of the little plastic reinforcing "walls") :
The extension buttons are prototypes - I'm still looking for some that would have the proper feel:
They fit quite nice, although the plug still needs some filing and painting:
The trick was not to put all magnets facing the same poles up so you can only fit the plug one way. Everything works smooth. The lazy reading is best, hands down
That's pretty nice.
My Nook Touch doesn't have any test points labelled.
Interesting perversion. =) I'd take the slimmer wires for internal mounting.
Following a post on G+ about getting wireless charging on TS https://plus.google.com/u/0/113668328412632358673/posts/AAQL8jJUdfm, I decided to record my investigations in this area.
I'll map my thoughts and experiences as I go - at the moment, I dont have wireless charging, and the final outcome may be naff, but it might inspire others.
Indeed, I couldnt even get my TS to charge outside of the cradle (documented in the post entitled SUUNTO charger), nonetheless, lets persevere.
Some things needed -
QI wireless charging base = transmitter.
QI wireless foil = receiver. This is can be got on eBay or Amazon, and is the bit that provided power to your battery. There are several sizes (mostly for branded phones) and typically fit inside a phones case, or behind the back if the phone has a removable back. You need to find the smallest available that will deliver 500mA at 5V. The ones Ive obtained so far are too big, and I may end up trimming the non-functional area to get it to fit.
Some clever way of attaching the receiver to the TS or cradle (WIP) - its possible to solder the receiver to either the TS or cradle, but we need to keep it detachable so the USB port can be used.
Some observations -
Because the TS cant lie flat, due to the wrist strap/band holding antennas not flexing horizontally, having the ability to just place the TS on a charging plate may be a non starter. [Maybe we could tolerate the foil flapping open, or being hinged to 180 degrees when charging].
As the TS has an Alu or steel back, thus creating wireless interference or insulation, having the receiver inside the TS may be a non starter.
Before I go down the route of trying to get a receiver behind inside the TS itself, (which would entail opening it up and voiding the warranty ) Im going to look at getting it to work via the charging cradle.
The inside of the cradle offers more space to get a receiver foil in, looks as though it could be done without serious soldering work or permanent damage. However, the only advantage is that it only dispenses with the USB cable - the TS still has to be placed inside the cradle.
The attached pics show the cradle components.
More posts to come later, reserving a few spots below for updates.
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Reserved 1
This picture shows the underside of the USB connector. It appears there are two resistors (the tiny rectangle surface mount components) - I guess these are creating a voltage divider to put +2.8V and +2.1V to the centre two pins. This doesnt seem to materially affect just applying 0v and +5V to the outer two though.
View attachment 2891869
Prototypes
What Im doing isnt really rocket science - Im just plugging in QI receivers to the TS. This successfully chargers the TS wirelessly, but as you can see, is not practical.
Hopefully I can find a way of making this neat, but I fear that, as I mentioned before, because the strap doesnt bend, you cant lay the TS flat.
Giving Up
With some judicious trimming of the receiver foil (after separating the liner), I was able to get it to fit inside the TS cradle.
However, the thickness of the plastic of the cradle base means the charging current wont reach the receiver. I even shaved off some of the extraneous mouldings on the base to try and get the receiver closer. I think if I persevered, and scraped into the base itself, it might work. With the extra moulding removed, I sometime get a hint of a blue charging light on my ZENS charging pad, but it never sticks.
If I could get this working, I would be faced with the last hurdle, which I fear is unsurmountable - the inability of the strap to bend. I would need a charging 'block' rather than a pad. Something that was less than 45mm between the straps. From what I can find, there aren't any; the smallest (without too much searching admittedly) was 90mm.
So this, and the fact that I couldn't find a foil small enough to go inside the TS itself, plus the TS case having the same interference problem as the cradle, means Im going to stop here.
It was a small, fun, diversion, and it would have been nice to get it working, but the retail products, and my engineering/manufacturing skills, don't exist to get us there.
After studying a Gear S bought in December in the US and a newer Gear S bought this week in Canada I believe Samsung have rather quickly initiated a running design change to solve the broken charger issue common to the initial design of Samsung Gear S watches.
The problem was this:
The top lip (nearest the thumb lever furthest from the charging pins) wears out or breaks off because the human thumb has a natural rotational angel when applying pressure to the thumb tab. This natural rotation forces the charger downward and because the bottom lip is on the outside, not the inside it, it cannot help hold the charger in place. The result is the slight downward movement of the charger causes increased pressure on the upper lip as it is forced against that from which it is trying to be pried off of. This constant grinding and increased pressure exceeds the initial design spec for the lip and eventually wears out the lip or breaks it off entirely.
The solution was to redesign the back casing of the watch with a small groove at the bottom and a matching sturdy protruding tab on the bottom of the charger. This tab fits tightly inside the watch grove when attached to the watch thus not allowing the charger to move downward when being pried off by your thumb at the top which in turn relieves the excess pressure on the upper lip.
I guess we will see how effective this fix is, but from the 5 broken charges I viewed all of them were the older design with no slot and tab.
I suspect that if you have the original version of this watch that you can avoid breaking the lip by pulling the watch off from the middle by prying it with your fingernails on each side thereby avoiding these rotational forces on either the upper or lower lip.
I also assume that Samsung will in the future releasing a fix whereby you can send the watch in for a new charger and a new watch back plate to solve this defect for early adopters. The louder you complain the more likely this will happen. Depending on what stock levels have been like in the US you may have these new designs in store there now. Canada didn't get the Gears S as quickly as the US so I am not sure if we got many of the old designs here in the first place.
Hmm, my AT&T launch day watch has the grove on the watch and the tab on the charger. So, I'm not sure this is the new design.
EDIT: Samsung USA has all four carrier variants using the same charging dock and the picture shows this
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which is not the same as what I got when I purchased mine at the launch day. So what I got is what described above in OP. The charger dock as pictured above won't fit my watch as it has a tab on top of the speaker port which my watch doesn't have a grove for it.
Just ordered a backup charger dock today since it is in stock after being back ordered for a very long time. It will be interesting to see which version I will get.
The one you have pictured is not the new design, I will take a picture of the tab and slot later this evening when I get home and upload it. The new version requires an updated Gear S watch backplate with a cutout slot. The new version has the slot very very close and directly below the bottom lip.
That's what I said. It appears that mine is the 'new' version and I bought it @11/7/2014 launch day in US. So I'm not sure that 'new' design made any difference to its durability.
foxbat121 said:
That's what I said. It appears that mine is the 'new' version and I bought it @11/7/2014 launch day in US. So I'm not sure that 'new' design made any difference to its durability.
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Click to collapse
Here are pictures added as attachments of the new charger with tab in a new location at the bottom and the back of the watch with a new slot at the bottom.
ShotEm said:
Here are pictures added as attachments of the new charger with tab in a new location at the bottom and the back of the watch with a new slot at the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this "new" design and broken charger... so it haven't helped...
That's exactly like mine.
yes mine looks this way too, and I got it right after launch.. I don't think that's "new"
However, I have no problems and have not broken my charger.
I wrote about this topic and added photos here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/gear-s/general/samsung-gear-s-charging-cradles-t3046489
My question is: were some Gear S watches made where the back of the watch has a long groove at the top (near the speaker port) and does not have the shorter groove at the very bottom (below the charging pins)?
If the Gear S was made with different backs, then they will only work with specific charging cradles.
The back of my Gear S (T-Mobile USA) does not have a long groove near the speaker port, so this is why one of the charging cradles did not fit/click on my Gear S.