I have been having problems with the touchscreen and this is a last ditch effort to fi x it.
I have come to the conclusion that I need to clean out the area around the screen. I have tried blowing it, and canned air but that hasn’t work so far.
I want to open up the T-mobile and clean it. Does anyone have any advice?? I am trying to find the FCC’s photos as a reference. Much thanks, I have learned quite a bit from this forum and I appreciate everyones help.
I'll start with assembly advice--be careful of the position of the on/off button relative to the switch below it as you snap the case back together. Don't ask me how I learned this... :shock:
The connector for the large ribbon cable from the screen has a flip-up cover/retainer, not the standard sliding retainer like the other cables.
There is a screw under a "Warranty Void if removed" sticker which must be removed. If you use a pen knife and a steady hand, you can remove the sticker and put it back. The sticker is one of those fragmented ones, so you must be extremely careful and slow.
Work on a soft surface (anti-stat mat, table cloth, etc) so parts that fall out don't bounce/roll and get lost.
Cover the screen face so you don't damage it accidentally.
Thanks! that helps......I am going to give it a try tommorrow...
One more question........the screws on the top of the XDA are standard flathead.......but the bottom two look hexagon shape...or sort of like a allen wrench...anyone know what to use to unscrew these????
It's a Torx, not sure what size. I think a T4, based upon the fact that my T5 was slightly too big. I ended up using a 1mm hex key which I had filed lightly on two of the sides.
Carlos said:
It's a Torx, not sure what size. I think a T4, based upon the fact that my T5 was slightly too big. I ended up using a 1mm hex key which I had filed lightly on two of the sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do yourself a favour and get the right Torx. You have no idea what a pain these things are to remove if they ever lose their teeth. It's a T-8, at least that's what it says on mine.
hi,
if u r not ,that, expert,,,,,,do not try to open it,,,go to some service center and get it cleaned.
or there would be an increase in posts ''xda not working ''
That's weird, I wonder if they used different size screws here in the US? I was wrong though, it's a T7 that was too big, so the right one would be T5 or T6 then for mine. Peter Poelman, you're in the Orient, are you not? Ever compare screw sizes with European units?
I usually agree with the "right tool" advice, but I was simply unable to find one anywhere (and I tried all the proper tool and electronics shops). The 1mm slightly shaved fit PERFECTLY with no damage to the screws at all.
Carlos said:
Peter Poelman, you're in the Orient, are you not? Ever compare screw sizes with European units?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm in Europe. Smack in the formal magical center of it. Now where that nice torq and screwdriver set is from, I don't know...
torx
the torx on mine are T6 same as ericsson phones and ipaq ppc.
Related
OK, I've gone and done a embarrasing thing ;o)
had the top of the stylus bit unscrewed. put the bottom bit in the holder on XDA, and it appears to have dropped down!
no amount of prising with screwdriver etc can get it out ;(
Any suggestions for how to get it out?
Disassemble etc?
Thanks,
Ben
I did the same thing, I got a small jewellers screwdriver and pushed it down while exerting pressure to one side, it took a few pulls but it got there gradually. The best thing would be if you can find something longer than the top part of the stylus with the same thread and screw that in, since it happened to me I went to a local engineering place and they sold me a piece of threaded bar that does the trick.
thanks - is there any danger of affecting the circuitry if I start poking?
its just, i was looking at the XDA internals photos, and there doesn't seem to be a proper seperator?
I'll try a small screwdriver..thanks
bwgames said:
OK, I've gone and done a embarrasing thing ;o)
had the top of the stylus bit unscrewed. put the bottom bit in the holder on XDA, and it appears to have dropped down!
no amount of prising with screwdriver etc can get it out ;(
Any suggestions for how to get it out?
Disassemble etc?
Thanks,
Ben
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used the plastic top of a 3 in one stylus I bought (and discovered was a lot of rubbish because the reset pin was too big) and trimmed down the plastic, attached it to a piece of tube, and stuck it in, screwed it onto the bit in there and pulled it out.
ruined a stylus though.
..Chuck..
I can be so stupid sometimes.
Went and did what you did Chuck, but forgot to attach the tubing or any means of getting it out
Gonna try a tiny dab of glue...
I did the same thing on the Xda II. Unfortunately the narrower stylus makes it even harder to find a suitable tool
Found that the (plastic) end of a children's small paintbrush was just the job!
Can't get it out now
Does anyone know what screwdrivers I need to disassemble XDA?
It looks like a standard straight one, and a torx one of some size?
@tabbycat: Where did you get the XDA II?
Same thing happened to me: I just gently banged the tip of the antenna on the table. Dropped right out. But then maybe my stylus holder has become quite loose...
bwgames said:
Can't get it out now
Does anyone know what screwdrivers I need to disassemble XDA?
It looks like a standard straight one, and a torx one of some size?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
T6 torx driver and standard slot driver did mine.
tabbycat said:
I did the same thing on the Xda II. Unfortunately the narrower stylus makes it even harder to find a suitable tool
Found that the (plastic) end of a children's small paintbrush was just the job!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes i would also like to know this :| unless you are an o2 tester?
Hello,
I bought the XDA IIs from a friend of mine in the U.K a month ago.
Everything works fine except that the STYLUS DOES NOT LOCK on to the groove provided behind the phone.
No matter how hard I push in it just would lock!!!
It was locking fine just an hour ago!!
After I charged the XDA IIs through a hotsync cable this problem seems to have arised.
Is there anything I can do at home to rectify the problem.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!
P.S - I have tried with a new pair of styli though and even they wouldn't lock in.!!!
Same problem here
I have learned to use it without the "pen". Losed two already!
nannlp said:
Hello,
I bought the XDA IIs from a friend of mine in the U.K a month ago.
Everything works fine except that the STYLUS DOES NOT LOCK on to the groove provided behind the phone.
No matter how hard I push in it just would lock!!!
It was locking fine just an hour ago!!
After I charged the XDA IIs through a hotsync cable this problem seems to have arised.
Is there anything I can do at home to rectify the problem.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!
P.S - I have tried with a new pair of styli though and even they wouldn't lock in.!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES!!
:lol: Fingers work better than the PEN
AND leads to a form of exercise too... :wink:
The only drawback being while typing multiple letters get punched & b'comes a pain to delete them all :evil:
Re: YES!!
Could be VERY "handy" to have more "finger-optimized" options on the screen... I now really find the "stick" a ver slowww "extra". :roll:
nannlp said:
:lol: Fingers work better than the PEN
AND leads to a form of exercise too... :wink:
The only drawback being while typing multiple letters get punched & b'comes a pain to delete them all :evil:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
finger optimization
huh !!! you could do something like a more finger friendly usage with XDA IIs!??? :shock:
How do you do that?
HELP!!!1
THANK YOU
Pockpctechs.com I thought had a fix for this?
I have this same problem but I just bought more replacement syluses and also make sure the device is in the normal position when I am wearing it.
Check www.pocketpctechs.com
what i did is open the back housing, put rubber sticker inside the place where stylus stay. now is tighter than before.
Hello
same problem, but realy easy to fix.
You have to use insulating tape (sorry, i don't know if this is the correct english name. This tape is used for insulating two elettrical wires connected togheter.)
So, you have to cut about 4mm x 1.5cm of this tape and then you have to turn around it on the top of your stylus.
This will produce a little gain of soft thickness right in the place where the stylus is in contact with your PDA.
My stylus slot was broken about one year ago: i used this insulating tape, and i have never lost my stylus.
follow some pictures... i have used white insulating tape in order to produce cleat photos: of course, you have to use black tape, as you can see in the last picture
Please try this link posted in wiki. This has details of how to fix a loose stylus.
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=BA_Sty_stopper
Regards
Sethuram
O2XDAiis
May need to modify length of tape, so experiment
Thank you Ronzino for this idea . I am now trying it out and it seems very good and yes, we do call it insulating tape in English btw, (at least in UK English).
I think it depends on the thickness of the insulating tape used, but I have found that I needed to cut the tape a bit shorter, for the stylus to fit. So it is worth experimenting on this.
I am guessing that the glue might soften in very hot weather, causing the tape to slide a bit, and make a bit of a mess, but this seems a minor problem compared to having to open uo my Blue Angel, which I reluctant to try. One can always clean up and use a fresh bit of tape.
I dare say it might be handy if manufacturers could perhaps produce stylus' in a way that overcomes this problem. One stylus I have seen has a small, rear springed, ball bearing inset on one side of it which would solve this problem. Unfortunately they do not seem to do these with the Blue Angel pecs in mind though.
almunday said:
Thank you Ronzino for this idea . I am now trying it out and it seems very good and yes, we do call it insulating tape in English btw, (at least in UK English).
I think it depends on the thickness of the insulating tape used, but I have found that I needed to cut the tape a bit shorter, for the stylus to fit. So it is worth experimenting on this.
I am guessing that the glue might soften in very hot weather, causing the tape to slide a bit, and make a bit of a mess, but this seems a minor problem compared to having to open uo my Blue Angel, which I reluctant to try. One can always clean up and use a fresh bit of tape.
I dare say it might be handy if manufacturers could perhaps produce stylus' in a way that overcomes this problem. One stylus I have seen has a small, rear springed, ball bearing inset on one side of it which would solve this problem. Unfortunately they do not seem to do these with the Blue Angel pecs in mind though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was suggested a while back (in fact, there was something about this in the wiki). For the most part, the section of the casing in charge of holding the stylus in place gets warped/cracked from use. Making the body of the stylus thicker allows the center to be locked rather than the top. Not sure about the glue, but for this to go bad, temps have to be rather high...
Instead of wrapping tape around your stylus, you can also take a 4x6mm piece of soft rubber and stick it inside the housing just behind the hook which should hold the pen.
You need 1,5mm material, if the hook is still there and you just want to improve the tightnes of your clasp, and 3-4mm if it is gone.
edit: replaced the missing clasp by using some piece of nylon- attached pic shows where i've taken it from. Glued this tiny part into the bay of the broken clasp and placed some mossrubber behind it as described above.
Works really good, and no tape smearing around in your housing
(Note: don't use cyanacrylate, it's like cancer to our housing...)
Need HELP as I have lost screws on both sides of BA. Can I use such other screws as eyeglasses' than BA's genuine screws, which are hard to find in my country?, and which size of screw is best fit with BA's?
i cannot tell for sure, which screws you are missing and what screws you want to take as a generic replacement, but a suggestion:
here you'll find the official htc blueangel service manual:
http://printer1.blogspot.com/2009/03/htc-blue-angel-service-manual.html
on page 53 there is a spare part list, also containing the measurements and names of the screws, googling them or asking in a local hardware store might help you.
plus, as probably by the names you don't know if those are the specific ones you're missing, refer to page 57/58, where you find photos of the screws.
Many thanks.
They are exactly what appear in last picture of page 26 i.e. 2 screws on the side of units
I've tried to map with picture frame in page 58, but not sure between these 2, which are:
Frame#28 (P/N: 72H00642-00M = SCREW,M1.6*3,Flat-sinkheadwithTorxrecess,H)
Frame#33 (P/N: 72H00441-00M = SCREW,TORX,FLAT,M1.6X4.5mm,BLACK,Pb-FREE)
And if I want to find the substituted screws, how can I explain their size to the store? For example, how to read the size of 'M1.6*3mm'? Please advise.
i can't tell you exactly, which one it is, although now i know which ones you were referring to. i think it is #28, because of the sinking head and the color, all the device's internal screws are black but those are silverish.
in case it is #28:
72H00642-00M is the HTC part number, that can become expensive ordering from them.
if you want to contact a local retailer, the rest of the information is relevant, you look for a torx screw, with a sinkhead and the metric measurements M1.6X3mm, meaning, without the head, the screw has a diameter of 1.6mm and is 3mm long.
maybe you should check electronics shops, computer shops, maybe handicrafts shops for that, and when you found a retailer having that general kind of screws, test them.
the only difference between the 2 types of screws you posted, is the length and the type of head, and i think you can simply try it out. try the longer one first, if it doesn't go in, take the shorter one. easy thing.
good luck with that.
Chef_Tony
cyberbank said:
They are exactly what appear in last picture of page 26 i.e. 2 screws on the side of units
I've tried to map with picture frame in page 58, but not sure between these 2, which are:
Frame#28 (P/N: 72H00642-00M = SCREW,M1.6*3,Flat-sinkheadwithTorxrecess,H)
Frame#33 (P/N: 72H00441-00M = SCREW,TORX,FLAT,M1.6X4.5mm,BLACK,Pb-FREE)
And if I want to find the substituted screws, how can I explain their size to the store? For example, how to read the size of 'M1.6*3mm'? Please advise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will be 1.6 dia by 3mm long. I lost those screws over 2 years ago and have never replaced them, phone has not fallen apart and still works fine!
shaper said:
Will be 1.6 dia by 3mm long. I lost those screws over 2 years ago and have never replaced them, phone has not fallen apart and still works fine!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same here. it seems a little bit shaky though.
so I just have to look for a screw with 1.6mm diameter and 3mm long?
alphadeeto said:
same here. it seems a little bit shaky though.
so I just have to look for a screw with 1.6mm diameter and 3mm long?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes and if at all possible, avoid torch type screws (at least I think that's what they are called), which are the ones that require a start headed screw driver (not talking about phillips)
shaper said:
Will be 1.6 dia by 3mm long. I lost those screws over 2 years ago and have never replaced them, phone has not fallen apart and still works fine!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you are lucky my friend..
my phone fell to the floor once, and started hard reseting by itself from time to time, took it to a shop for fix and the guy lost this 2 screws and my phone ended useless reseting again and again, but because of this, found that the problem was in the case so i super glued the area were the case was loose because of this 2 screws and phone started working again.
i bought a cdma BA for parts but the screws are not the same (or this technic guy broke the tread) so it have no screws on the side, and after superglue no auto hard resete.
It's definitely the m1.6x3 torx sinkhead; you need a T5 screwdriver.
Of course you can also use other screws- e.g. crossrecess-
but i think torx look the best.
Following eBay-item contains a sheet which shows the meaning
of m1.6x3
http://www.ebay.de/itm/25-Stuck-M1-...124201386?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item53d91339aa
what he says
B-44 said:
It's definitely the m1.6x3 torx sinkhead; you need a T5 screwdriver.
Of course you can also use other screws- e.g. crossrecess-
but i think torx look the best.
Following eBay-item contains a sheet which shows the meaning
of m1.6x3
http://www.ebay.de/itm/25-Stuck-M1-...124201386?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item53d91339aa
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without a doubt . . . .
Before we were so rudely interrupted in the original thread, we were discussing the G1 hardware keyboard replacements. Please folks, if you must flame each other do it via PMs to avoid locking legitimate threads.
I've been able to find some inexpensive after market replacements on eBay, but still am not sure how difficult it is to actually do that. All the sites I've been able to find on the subject only provide time-lapse dis-assembly instructions of the entire phone. If anyone has done the replacement themselves, I'd greatly appreciate pointers on how to keep my phone operational after I put it back together.
I replaced the white keyboard in my Dream with a black one. It was a scary operation as it takes a bit of force to dismantle. I accidently pulled my antenna off and disconnected a flylead. ment my phone had no signal at all. later when i got home (did it in work ) i took it apart again and fixed it.
Take your time and have patience, alot of it is plastic and clipped together so requires a bit of force.
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
brummiesteven said:
May I ask what is wrong with the keys on the bronze one? I did a quick skim of the old post and gather that you can't see the keys in daylight but I don't get why?
I'm just genuinely interested, I have a black G1 so never had such a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the combination of silver keys with light-silver backlight that make the lettering almost impossible to see in day light conditions. I'd take a picture if I had a camera with me today. Whoever came up with that color combination should be fired. Or at least made to stare at it every day for the next year. I have to tilt the keyboard at a weird angle just to distinguish the letters. From what I understand the white G1s suffer from the same problem.
The "Backlight Off" app definitely helps as it lets you toggle the backlight with a keyboard shortcut. I'm looking for a more hardware solution though.
I've been thinking about changing keyboards and housings too. But from what ppl are saying it seems to be pretty exhaustive. Do any of you guys have the service manual? I DL'ed it from somewhere and it goes through each step of disassembly and also shows assembly. I'm sure it would help out to give an idea of what you need. But like I said, even having read the service manual, it's still quite scary.
A full housing from my understanding is a bitc(....doing the KB I can see why. The LCD portions look ridiculously complex in comparison to other phones.
That said if you have the proper tools , good organization or memory , steady hands and patience really shouldnt be "that" tough to do the keyboard.
Heres the thing. Its really not that hard to unscrew things etc...but the piece you need to move in order to get proper access to the KB has 2 ribbons that are a PAIN IN THE ASS to take off and put back properly. Theres so little room for error.If youve never worked with ribbons before BE CAREFUL.
I will say G1 is pretty unique in how its put together , I swear they were determined to make it as complicated as possible
The really pain in the ass part is that the online manual/guide will merely tell you something like "remove part A" but no explanation how. Theres also 2 screws I swear it glossed over leading to frustration when I did the trackball/front keys.
Torx 5 and really good mini screw driver are mandatory.
Nice lil workstation is really helpful..(masking tape ,towel , table lamp or LED headlamp , vitamin/pill cases etc)
Im no mechanical engineer but Ive opened up damn near everything Ive ever owned at some point. Took me a solid 3 hours from start to finish. With major time spent on organizing the screws pieces and those damn ribbons.
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
KOF33 said:
I will say the black KB makes a HUGE difference. Black key on the front arent necessary but do look better and add much needed contrast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
Chahk said:
Pics, or it didn't happen
Thanks for the tips!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you can see I also replaced the trackball with a glowing white one.
lol at the trackball
doing a case swap is only bad the first time LMAO. I learned a lot, like for example the brass inserts that the screws go into...are not pre-installed. You must CUT Them out of the old housing and HAMMER them into the new oneBut in the end, it turned out very nice.
As far as just replacing the keyboard, it isnt too bad actually once you know what screws hold what down!
-Remove the 6 torx screws for the back housing
-GENTLY pry open the TOP of the casing with a plastic case tool, work your way down to the bottom of the housing. The bottom is a PITA to remove. I usually get it by rocking it gently back and forth
-remove the long and short coax leads from the motherboard side. swing them out of the way
-peel back the tape and GENTLY pull the bottom connector (mouthpiece module) from the motherboard.
-peel back more tape and lift the latch for the keyboard connector (the one on the side)
-Peel the camera module up SLOWLY (it is double side taped down) as well as the imei card. The cam cable is routed under it, lift it all as a unit. When you get to the motherboard, STOP
-Now, gently twist the whole camera and motherboard unit as a whole until it is free of the latch on the side. Gently lift the camera end exposing the 2 small ribbon connectors on the bottom.
-Peel back the tape and GENTLY lift the ribbon connectors out of the board. Place the motherboard/camera unit to the side for now.
-Remove all the black and silver screws for the metal piece. The lcd should stay in place as the mouthpiece plastics kinda hold it for you, but you should still support it to keep from hurting the connections.
-Viola, keyboard access. Remember when you put it back together be sure to re-tape all the connections, else when you drop your phone one of them may pop loose.
Keeping the motherboard and camera/imea plate all as one module saves you from a very difficult connection and will help you keep everything aligned when reassembling it.
I guess the spacebar has 2 functioning buttons, (left and right) ... well my right side just konked on me, and i was wondering if a replacement keyboard off ebay will fix this, or are they just the button "covers"?
the "buttons" are just plastic nubs that make contact on a board behind it. That board would be what you need. I dont know if there are any on eBay, but I have a spare one if you want to PM me for details.
I dropped my G1 about 6 months ago and was devastated. After entirely too much research I finally got the guts to purchase a replacement digitizer and managed to install it successfully. However, in the process I managed to rip the LCD ribbon cable. I then had to order a replacement LCD screen. I've also damaged one of the black ribbon cables pretty severely causing the touchscreen to become unresponsive sporadically. I've just placed an order for one of those ribbon cables and will hopefully have that up and running soon. I've also purchased an entire new housing unit to rebuild the phone to make it look as new.
Now when I first took this thing apart I was by NO MEANS an expert or have ever done something like this before. I'm just an avid enthusiast who wanted to save a little money, feel a sense of accomplishment and to learn a few things along the way. I technically paid nearly the same amount of money it would have cost me to send the unit to HTC for repair, however i've learned everything there is to know about my phone's hardware. I know which board does what and are extremely confident about fixing ANY hardware problem in the future.
If you have the time, patience, and truly want to become confident about the workings of your phone, then I highly recommend fixing it yourself. I've bought my parts for VERY cheap off of reputable ebay buyers. You can find EVERY single piece for your phone on Ebay. My LCD has 1 dead pixel, but I guess that's the risk you take when you buy really cheap parts.
Hope this helps.
I want to install an SD card, but the back plate of the Truesmart... is not possible to remove.
I've used the OEM screwdriver and my own screwdrivers, but I've only managed to undo two screws; the other two are stuck. I think it might be the fact that the grooves of the screws are too flat.
However, does anybody have tips or recommendations to undo these two screws?
There are tiny stickers that say "OK" under a microscope over two of the backplate screws, to prevent tampering and inserting your SD card and having to do warranty replacements. If you didn't remove them first, they are now filling up the inadequate Phillips #000 head slots with plastic sticker.
Throw away the little screwdriver thing it shipped with, unless you need it for stabbing Smurfs.
If you have to drill out the screws, the spare ones shipped with the watch are better quality anyway.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Use a better screw driver. I had to use one of my precision screw drivers to get sufficient grip on the screws to unscrew them.
speedyink said:
Use a better screw driver. I had to use one of my precision screw drivers to get sufficient grip on the screws to unscrew them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be a bit careful, though, because one of my Sim card Compartment screws was way tight and I used a proper screw driver--and the screw sheared leaving about 1 mm stub in the bottom of the screw thread hole--at least, that is what I think must have happened since the screw in question is now about 1 mm shorter than the other.
I have written a nice letter to Omate, and got an initial reply--but, it's anyone's guess what their remedy will be?? Not a replacement watch I am sure.
Drilling and tapping screws that small is not possible--at least not by me.
I ended up having to apply heat to the screws in the sim cover to remove them. Intresting enough, there was no sign of threadlocking agent when the screws finally came out.
What exact kind of Screwdriver do you need?
I have problems with the standard one that came with the TS. No I want to buy a better one from Amazon or hardware-store.
I have the same issue, the screwdriver that came with the TS is pretty much useless. I was able to remove just one screw and the rest did not budge...
I am really disappointed with the design flaws of this device.
Yep, stock screwdriver is a POS.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
The driver I used is marked P0 - and i think it is this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-66-344M-4-in-1-Pocket-Screwdriver/dp/B0014KMDZ0
I think I bought mine in Tesco, it's pretty handy and better quality than I expected.