Two things I've found with the camera now with a few weeks of casual use - one, it produces blurred images unless i hold my breath and hold the thing as still as possible while it records the image. Even then it might have half the image clear and the other blurred, like its taking too long to poll all the pixels. It also seems to produce dark images even with the brighness setting on +2.0.
I have it set to take 3 mp images, on superfine quality, recording to the microdrive. Does anyone think any of these settings might be contributing to the problem? Maybe recording to memory and/or taking lower quality pics will fix the blurring (or half blurring) issues? I would hate to lower the quality.
Just curious what others have found as the best settings.
Ive tried so many different conbinations of settings and I almost always end up with a blurry picture, unless the lighting conditions are perfect and I mean perfect. If it's even slightly dark, or any form of artificial light, I get blurry images
i find the flash is useless n the device has to be resting on something and subject has too be still else it just dosent work!!!!!
If you get it right (and using the centre of the joystick as a camera shutter release button helps) then you can get some pretty decent lowlight shots.
Exposure is still horrible, but I've seen worse (universal was much worse than this).
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I've already switched to using the joystick's OK button as the shutter release, after holding the camera button half-way to prefocus. I wish the regular OK button below the joystick would work since it has a shorter throw (therefore less chance of motion), but it appears the camera doesn't read that button. < rant > On a related note, I wish the browser button would be disabled while the camera is active, I've lost track of how many times I've pressed it while gripping the right side in order to press the camera button half-way. Then I have to close the browser, interrupting the photo session. < /rant >
I just switched to recording to memory and a few test shots under my desk where its dark appear to be clear, even when I wiggled the unit while taking the shot. I guess a few weeks more of use will determine if its a solution or not. If not, then I'll try moving the quality or size settings downward.
Still interested if anyone has found any "good" settings.
Related
I've had a problem over the past month or two of where the camera on my G1 simply doesn't focus when close up to an object, most notably bar codes.
I used to be able to use ShopSavvy and Barcode Scanner effortlessly, as well as take pictures of things relatively close up, and have it be in focus.
However, that's not the case anymore. The camera takes pictures of things just fine when they're more than a few feet away, but as soon as you try to get as close as you'd need to scan a barcode, it just gets blurry, and won't focus. I've tried taking off the back cover, and wiping the lens and lens cover, to no avail.
Anyone else have this problem, or know of any suggestions to fix it? FWIW, I had been on a rooted JF 1.51 build, but just over the weekend I switched to CyanogenMOD, and I still have the same issue. Also, I've seen both this thread and this other thread on a similar issue, but, the half-pressing of the shutter button does not work, and I have the same issue with ShopSavvy, SnapTell, Barcode Scanner, Snap Photo, and the native camera.
Here are some photos for evidence.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrhaydel/3855605759/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrhaydel/3855605671/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrhaydel/3856395446/
Suggestions? Someone else mentioned that I should unroot it and take it in to TMobile for them to swap it out. Has anyone done this?
agreed!...i cant seem to use any barcode scanners cause of the fact that the camera will not focus in properly...I hope there is a solution to this.
I'm actually having the opposite problem, mine won't focus on anything that is more than one to two feet away which is pretty inconvenient since that's the range where the majority of things in the universe can be found
The only thing I can think of as a solution is (because I've got some experience in optics from university) find the precise range of focus of the camera and find a small lens that can adjust the focus to what it should be and put it over the aperture.
*****On the plus side, my camera can focus on very close objects, ~1inch, which is better than my CAMERA camera.
I have found that in order to focus properly, you must hold your finger on the "capture" button on the touch screen. When I let go, it takes the picture. I can focus on items up to about two inches from the lens. If I do not hold my finger on it, I would get the same type results as the OP has described/posted.
I've been trying to use the Panorama function on my Neo recently and I'm constantly coming up with issues with it. Basic issue is that its I'm not finding it easy to use at all.
I'm not a klutz with holding and moving the phone while pressing the button - I can do it at a constant speed and at a level altitude but I'm constantly coming across problems - either a message says "there is a grey area" in the photo or "pan the camera in the correct direction" - which I AM actually doing and then I've tried different speeds and changes in altitude as I pan but still I get an error message 95% of the time.
I've found some basic information on the following forums but not found any answers. A friend of mine has a Neo and he doesnt appear to have any problem so I'm going to look at his phone sometime and see if it works better than mine.
I've also been wondering if AutomateIT has been interfering with the camera while using pan but I've switched it off and still the main errors are either pan in the correct direction or grey area.
Any ideas?
http://talk.sonymobile.com/message/124763
http://talk.sonymobile.com/message/124763#26303
I've done some further experimentation and I've noticed the following
a) Wrong direction error occurs most often when altitude of camera is altered during pan
b) Holding the camera at arms length with elbows almost fully straightened and turning the body at the waist reduces the "pan in correct direction" error
c) Altering the radius (moving the camera towards or away from the body) during the turn does not create errors.
But still not sure what creates grey areas in photo.
i also found the panorama function very inappropriate.. though i still able to take picture from it with error of grey area. i edit the image with grey area.. usually on the right side of the pictures and keeps on clicking thing.
one thing i found out today was i took about 6 photos of panorama(all with grey area error) but only first image showed the thumbnails in the right.. then i thought it has stop taking the photos though the images were present in the gallery.
I haven't use the sweep panorama on my Neo, but this is what I've found using that function on my Sony DSC-H55 regarding grey areas.
It's a bit hard to explain but make sure that the camera plane is perfectly parallel with the curve of the sweep. Check to be sure that the left and right sides of the phone/camera are the same distance from the center of the pivot (you). In other words, make sure the camera lens is always pointing straight out from the pivot. If you suddenly twist the camera, then you end up cutting off the picture and getting a grey area where the photo-stiching software can't process data from the accelerometer.
It's not a great explaination, but I hope it helps.
Hit the Nail on head with that one!! But yet not as easy as it sounds!!!
Lol
Sent from my kang Xperia neo using XDA Premium HD app
It does take a little practice, yeah. The easiest way is to hold with both hands and turn your entire body if you're doing a horizontal sweep.
here a cropped grey area removed image which i took yesterday
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I noticed this the first day I had my phone, but thought it was just a fluke or some new touchwiz feature akin to the "linens" that iOS 5,6 had. But my note 3, white now on full stock MJ4, never rooted or tampered with yet seems to have some banding and aberrations with displaying medium grays. I have attached a screenshot that you can download and try for yourself. I am positive this is a bug, and with my limited knowledge I feel it is a software issue more than a hardware one that will hopefully get fixed.
Steps to really see the problem:
Download my screen shot on to your Note 3 (or open chrome browser, remove all windows so it is the gray background with the product logo as attached, then screen shot it yourself)
Do the following in a dark environment to see it best. (please)
Open the screenshot in gallery.
Zoom into it and pan around.
Play with different brightness settings and see if the banding with grays is more evident.
Turn on screen rotation, rotate screen.
Zoom and pan on the same screenshot in landscape view to see that the banding is apparent still only on the Y-axis, proving it was not part of the image.
I attempted to capture this on video and even scan it in my scanner, but it wasn't obvious like it is to my eyes. I want to know, does this affect other people's note 3s? If so I won't care as it really isn't a problem. But if it's just my handset, then I want to get it swapped out instead of risking a bad screen or any other on board hardware. I am most worried because the problem is different day to day and the banding seems to be greater towards the bottom of the screen
If you did all this, thank you!
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Same issue here as well as my girlfriends N3. If you mess around with the different display settings (dynamic, professional photo, etc) it increases it or decreases it. I've only noticed this with Chrome however. I will boot up my Evo 3D to see if it does it on there as well as my 2k12 N7.
Sent from my MiniN3
Hey there geeks! Today I wanna share with you the results of my long so-called research in the field of camera applications for the galaxy. I have tested SO MUCH options besides the built-in app and after several months of comparisons, I can say with confidence that I found the best of them. Of course, this is not a GCam port that is not supported on our device. However, this is so far the only application with the correct HDR, which I use on an every day basis. So, let's start the comparison.
There is always a standard camera on the left, and SnapCamera on the right. In both cases, HDR is turned on. There is no post processing.
Photo 1. Backlight sunlight.
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It seems that the standard camera wins here, however, pay attention to the leaves of the tree. A standard camera tries to snatch parts from an underexposed area and gives a touch of artificial and a plane picture. SnapCamera maintains balance and space for further processing.
Photo 2. Crops, focus point on the carpet.
Pay attention to the light behind the tulle. Comments aren't needed I guess.
Photo 3. Exposition of reflections, focus point on the phone keys.
A good example when a standard application could not save the dynamic range and overexposed the sources of reflected light. However, SnapCamera did just fine with this.
Photo 4. Random object.
In general, there are almost no differences, but SnapCamera produces more balanced colors with larger dynamic range (look at the illuminated area of the carpet).
Photo 5. Shot on the front camera.
Here is totally up to your taste. The standard application uses built-in algorithms for selfies — it gives photos warm tones, smoothes the skin and tries to compensate for the lack of details by highlighting some areas. If you need a quick photo for instagram - use the standard application. But personally, I like the result with SnapCamera — the photo is clearer, has much more information and is closer to life.
My HDR settings:
And guys (!) I didn't try to take these pictures as pieces of art, it's just a matter of demonstration.
Verdict
Until Samsung improves algorithms for budget cameras, SnapCamera is the best alternative on a dayly basis.
(But we do not give up hope that someone will still port gcam)
Sorry I'm new here so I can't insert side links to download
Unfortunately in my experience snapcamera is not so good in lower light conditions, the shots are grainy. Be nice to get 64bit ROMs so we can use gcam, which wins hands down on my past devices.
I find the Google camera app on the Pixel to be absolutely atrocious. The amount of sharpening and post processing that is being done is out of control, particularly on human faces... even in portrait mode. From what I can tell the only way around that are third party camera apps. What is a good one that provides manual controls and DNG shooting without the AI crap?
Update: ended up buying ProCam. As a long time slr user I find it completely intuitive but can understand how it can be intimidating for a first time user.
Open camera and Hedge Cam - These two are top quality open source camera apps. But only if you are willing to spend bit of time on understanding and experimenting with all the customization. They are completely manual. You need to turn on Camera API 2 to enable all the features.
Use the stock camera app for the usual point & shoots and use those serious apps for some serious captures and videos where you are willing to spend time in editing them in the computer or even in the phone.
If I'm taking a photo with people's faces in it, I do it by shooting in video mode, then selecting the best shot in Adobe Premiere. Thus, the resulting image has less contrast and color saturation than an image taken in photo mode.
Well, if I record a video that I want to archive like a video, so I make some adjustments there too. This is because even video taken with the stock camera app has too high contrast and color saturation. So they I apply the following effects to all the videos, the first effect is an effect called luma corrector, in which in the tab tonal range - highlights, I set the level contrast to -8 and then in the tab tonal range - Shadows I also set the level contrast to -8. This will increase the dynamic range, because I will extract some more image information from the dark shadows and from too much bright highlights.
And then they I apply a second effect to soften the intensity of the colors, which I do in an effect called lumetri color
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Saturation, where I also set the level saturation value to 95.