i just bought a brand new 3125 but my old one the charge port broke off the circuit board(hence the replacement) i see that there are replacement connectors but i can find no info on the procedure to replace it.anyone done this or is it even possible with a standard soldering iron and some steady hands.
that charge/dats port is really terrible, worst side of startrek
romakdaddy said:
i just bought a brand new 3125 but my old one the charge port broke off the circuit board(hence the replacement) i see that there are replacement connectors but i can find no info on the procedure to replace it.anyone done this or is it even possible with a standard soldering iron and some steady hands.
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The leads are very fine and tight pitch. You are not going to solder it with a typical soldering iron and not end up with solder bridges.
Best bet: Open your new one and einforce the connector with epoxy. Make sure you don't get any inside or put on too much to close the case. Just a couple of fillets on the sides will do wonders. Keep the old one in case you need other parts.
Related
HI,
It appears that the usb port on my t-mobile vario is loose and so it does not charge on the mains charger or via the usb cable on a pc.
So the question is:- How do you open it up to replace / repair the usb port?
I had a look through all the threads I could find dealing with usb port, but none dealt with this particular problem.
A "how to" with pictures would be great, but even a step by step would be useful.
many thanks to all who use and help on this site, without it we would all be worse off!!
Regards,
John
(UK)
Replace USB port
Ok, It appears that no one has had to do this yet, or the ones who have are not online at present.
I have managed to work it out.
There are four torx screws holding the back cover on.
Two are easy to get at, they are the ones near the usb port. The only problem is that they are smaller than a size 4 torx driver!! I managed to get them undone using an ordinary flat blade screwdriver of the right size from a kit of mini flat and cross blade screwdrivers.
When you undo one of them it also holds in place the little metal bit which you use to put a necklace strap thorough - don't lose any bits!!
The next bit was a bit tricky but only because I did not know how it came apart!
There is a cover which goes over the section which has the camera in it. This needs to be "uncliped", you need to start the unclipping from the open end section near the battery, as there are two "prongs" which go in under the end near the sd slot.
There are two more torx screws at this end that need undoing as well.
The next bit is not really difficult but it is if you don't want to mark your case!
You have to "unclip" the back from the middle bit of the phone, it is held in place by clips that go from the back section into the middle section. I started at the bottom end near the usb port and just used the small flat bladed screwdrivers I had to ease the two sections apart.
At this point you will probably find a couple of bit are now loose inside between the two sections. One is a long black piece of plastic which is held in place by the one of the torx screws you removed earlier. Try and remember where it came from as it is easier when you put the case back together to know where it goes, than to try and work it out.
The second bit floating around will be the USB port! (If it has totaly come off like mine had).
Now you will probably see that the soldered joints are white and furry, this is because they are what is called "dry joints".
Now if you have a reasonably steady hand, good eyesight (or a good pair of magnifying glasses or something similar), you can see that there are four "legs" made from the metal cover of the usb port which no doubt will have come loose. These will need to be soldered back on to the circuit board again along with the 5 "TINY" usb wire connections. I had to modify my soldering iron tip with a file to make it small enough not to solder them all together!! Once they are securley soldered back in place, you can put your phone back together again!
I was told by two mobile phone shops I went into here in the UK that the phone would have to be sent back to HTC to be fixed. I fixed mine in a couple of hours......
I also noticed that it is possible to buy a replacement USB port on E-Bay for this phone if yours is to badly damaged or you just want to use a new one.
Well, I hope this is of help to someone.
Regards,
John
Wondering if anyone has seen or knows of a right angle 40 pin charging connector? Either that or im hacking up a keyboard if i can find one cheap enough. Im dead set on getting this tab in my dash =D
Sent from my Transformer
What do you mean right angle? Do you mean so the cable is lines to to right rather than at the bottom on the sync/charge cable?
In that case - no, never seen. But its not super-hard to do it yourself. It will still stick stick out around 1cm though, because theres a PCB inside.
Although the PCB can be removed as well, but that requires some very fine soldering (we're talking pins that are like 0.7mm, if not less, with like 0.5mm spacing)
I had a hell of a time to just resolder the data cables on the cable, and the points are located on the PCB so theres only 2 'pins' near there. Soldering those cables on the connector itself would be.. ugh... *nightmares*
Lol no, no micro soldering for me. Just wondering if there has been or is or what miss match parts could possible go together to go from the existing 40 pin port down and back. Like a right angle but coming down and away from you. The ipads have em. But we arent comparing that crap here. I want to make a dock of sorts, to have fiberglassed in. Tab slides down and plugs in to charge. Thats why i mentioned hacking up a keyboard if need be.
Sent from my Transformer
Yeah ok. No I dont think theres any such cable.
But if you just want to angle the cable its quite easy, and if youre careful wont require any soldering.
All you need to do is open the cable up, cut a new hole for the cable in the casing, align it and reassemble it (it will probably have to be glued together again, or plastic welded, simple stuff really).
And even if you would manage to rip off the cables, the + and - cables are (relatively) big. ground is just soldered directly onto the shielding, and + is soldered to 3 pins next to each other, and theres only 1 other pin nearby you have to look out for, but that pin is sortof protected by some plastic thing (which will probably melt from the heat of the soldering iron though lol).
The hardest part of all this is actually opening the damn casing without damaging it too much
Has anyone had to replace the charging port on the Rezound? My wife's phone somehow was bent on the inside and now needs to fixed.
I would suggest buying a broken rezound off of ebay or Craigslist. And just using that one. The part is 100 bucks on ebay, but you can buy a broken phone cheaper than that. The port is on the main board though. So it will require soldering. Hope this helps.
sent from GSN2 using Tapatalk 4
I replaced the charging port on a GS3. Regular Micro USB so it only had 5 pins. That was hard, and required an extremely fine pointed soldering iron. And I also have over 7 years of soldering experience. I barely got it working.
The Rezound has an Ext-Micro USB connector, and 12 pins. I do not recommend anyone attempt that. Remember that these parts are laid by laser guided robots, and then sent through an oven to be soldered. These are not meant for human hands.
Just buy a new phone or motherboard.
^^^^ that. What I said. If you don't have good soldering exp. Buy a cheap broken phone with a good esn and switch.
sent from a small tablet aka N2
howellcp said:
Has anyone had to replace the charging port on the Rezound? My wife's phone somehow was bent on the inside and now needs to fixed.
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I have done this and you def need fine soldering skills. I had my dad solder it for me who has over 40 years of experience and has the tools for soldering stuff like that considering he works on small stuff like that all day , it works great but you need to be able to fine solder. If not, but either a working one online and use that or buy a broken on and do some swapping..its not really worth the hassle if you ask me
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
HEXAHN said:
MY XZU Cable fault ;-c
I try to fix
But, the cable is attached to the motherboard
I do not know what I soldered or heat ;-c
Help the person to fix cables
Attachments Photo!!!
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You can't fix this by yourself, unfortunately. It's glued on with some special adhesive, the contacts are to tiny to solder. The glue you buy on ebay (i assume), next problem is getting the flex cable on the right place and keep it their while glueing.....
You can look for a motherboard replacement, only last time i checked it's almost as expensive as a new phone.
Some manufacturers use small clamps for the flex cable, i assume glue is the trade off for this tiny device...
I've been to this hassle myself, i ended up on buying a new ultra
Has someone have any other suggestions? Have detached the main flex from the board. Had the main flex broken, wanted to fix, but know it's just disassembled. Had display problems before.
Can someone have some ideas? like those clamps you mentioned.
Bro your beating a dead horse, just buy a used one online
hot bar soldering attachment, anisotropic adhesive film/tape( apparently you can buy this for whole sale only. lucky for me the company I work with has spare trimmings of this), microscope or powerful magnifying glass and a lot of patience.
bump, i am in this boat, there must be a dozen lines on the cable, i cant imagine soldering it without shorting it out....
Why do they sell those toys that cannot be repaired by the way?
I'm in the same boat an all y'all being no help are no help so bump outta here already cuz everyone else in this boat looking for the answer doesn't wanna WASTE THEIR TIME on your helpless posts.
To recap we have the solder method which sounds like rubbish as flex cables melt.
Then there's that kind of adhesive glue and/or tape. Clamping is the reason phone companies profits dwindled until they switched to this new clampless method. I'm not gonna buy in bulk cuz I'm not about to start up a cell phone chop shop so maybe get a magnifying headset, some Walmart super glue that says mess free, and use a needle to dab the glue on in the right points but don't cover any contacts!
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
I also recently experienced, looking at google solution does not get the information.
Try YouTube? I'm sure it applies to other z models
jigzerx said:
Did anyone ever managed to get this done?
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I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
lesterine said:
I just did this. I didnt use that ADH* glue some people are talking about. I simply inspected how the old one is soldered on. Then removed the old one. There will be slight residue of the glue people are mentioning. I just simply took the solder tip OFF my soldering iron. then used a magnify glass to align the new ribbon. I also used clear tape to hold half of the ribbon down. Meaning i did 1 side at a time. So i taped from the middle to the far left to hold the ribbon down. I then used the blunt end of my soldering iron with the tip removed to press down with some force. Stayed in one location and counted to 20 the slid a little bit to the left. repeated this till the right 50% of the ribbon seemed glued down. I then applied clear tape over this portion and moved over to the previously taped left side. Repeating what I did on the right. after about 10 minutes of work. attached battery, press on button, phone came on. Then tested volume up and down and all worked.
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Can u explain me how u attached the flex cable back to its place. I didnt full understud this explanation. Have the same problem hoping u can help me.
using the soldering iron t shape tip, step 1 using the scraper to scrap away the glue then install the silicone strip to heat the flex cable on the board. hope this help.
Have same problem too! When I transferred the board with the power/volume button flex cable to a new housing, I accidentally lifted part of the flex cable causing my XZU C6833 not to boot up, no vibration and no screen image.
And can't seem to find any tutorial on how to properly attach the said cable onto the main board.
Will try lesterine's solution.
Can any one post the complete teardown and spec of new chromecast.
I was wondering what if the new HDMI CABLE LIKE FLAT BROKE OVER TIME WHEN PULLING IN AND OUT OF TV.
Haven't run into any teardowns yet. First batches shipped this week, so I guess we'll see a teardown from someone next week, hopefully.
Oh yeah, I don't care much for the new flat flex cable either.
Of course when you're plugging it in or disconnecting it, hold it from it's connector instead of the cable. Duh.
I'll make a guess that if it does break and you're out of warranty, replacing it will be difficult and it's a whole another question if there will even be replacement cables available from anywhere.. Worst case scenario it's soldered straight to PCB..
But I think, whatever the case, if you're out of warranty then tough luck. At least it's relatively cheap.
When I get mine I'll use velcro to secure it behind my TV. Solves the dangling freely issue and I'll also use a separate (short) HDMI extension so I can keep it's own cable straight.
lagittaja said:
Haven't run into any teardowns yet. First batches shipped this week, so I guess we'll see a teardown from someone next week, hopefully.
Oh yeah, I don't care much for the new flat flex cable either.
Of course when you're plugging it in or disconnecting it, hold it from it's connector instead of the cable. Duh.
I'll make a guess that if it does break and you're out of warranty, replacing it will be difficult and it's a whole another question if there will even be replacement cables available from anywhere.. Worst case scenario it's soldered straight to PCB..
But I think, whatever the case, if you're out of warranty then tough luck. At least it's relatively cheap.
When I get mine I'll use velcro to secure it behind my TV. Solves the dangling freely issue and I'll also use a separate (short) HDMI extension so I can keep it's own cable straight.
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Next week? I already got mine at Best Buy. I was going to get the 1st gen since they were on sale, but came across the 2nd gen so I went with it. The cable seems pretty strong, and it magnetically clips on to the little Chromecast itself.
iFixit posted a teardown: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Chromecast+2015+Teardown/50189
Marvell Avastar 88W8887 VHT WLAN, Bluetooth, NFC and FM Receiver
Samsung K4B4G1646D-BY 4 Gb DDR3L SDRAM
Marvell Armada 88DE3006 1500 Mini Plus dual-core ARM Cortex-A7 media processor
Toshiba TC58NVG1S3H 2 Gb NAND Flash Memory
MRVL 21AA3 521GDT—likely Marvell Semiconductor DC-DC regulator
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Oh, wow. Guys, just take a look at that cable/connector solution!
Heavy solder on the connector and the connector bracket well bolted-down. As well as stress relief on the cable exterior which is held by the plastic body of the CC.
That's just awesome. Lovely design. Hats off to the guys who designed that.