ive searched for posts around here and i couldnt find the right answer,
but has anyone tried on the european TP2 battery cover(silver) and put it on the Tilt 2?? im thinking about buying one off of HTCPedia since my original cover has scratches on the brushed metal area but i also want a touch of the original TP2 ...all though the charcoal color was good i still want the silver Euro cover,
if you do have it please provide some pictures, and btw i could care less about the PTT button being covered up
thanks a lot
XERO_Racer said:
ive searched for posts around here and i couldnt find the right answer,
but has anyone tried on the european TP2 battery cover(silver) and put it on the Tilt 2?? im thinking about buying one off of HTCPedia since my original cover has scratches on the brushed metal area but i also want a touch of the original TP2 ...all though the charcoal color was good i still want the silver Euro cover,
if you do have it please provide some pictures, and btw i could care less about the PTT button being covered up
thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does anyone other than those in the construction industry or slinging dope on the corner even use PTT anymore?? Hell does Nextel even exist anymore?
nerv666999 said:
Does anyone other than those in the construction industry or slinging dope on the corner even use PTT anymore?? Hell does Nextel even exist anymore?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish my T-Mobile version had one - I would map that hardware key...
BUMP!
sorry but my cover just broke on me, and im wlling to give the silver cover a shot with the tilt 2
can anyone confirm if itll actually look good? because i might see some contrast of dark black/blue with silver and idk if its nice :S
nerv666999 said:
Does anyone other than those in the construction industry or slinging dope on the corner even use PTT anymore?? Hell does Nextel even exist anymore?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol true, but i remap it and the extra button is really handy.
As for the back case fitting, i remember searching a while ago for the same thing but got nothing conclusive, only that the back case for the cdma rhodiums doesn't fit right on the gsm ones because they have mini-usb and 3.5mm jack on the bottom.
Guess you should just buy a cheap one online and tell us all if it works?
Its not just about the PTT button.. the bottom of the back cover will be different. I believe if you need one that will fit the tilt 2 you have to get one that is made JUST for it. By that I mean the cut out for the space where the USB port at the bottom is is different because the tilt 2 just has the usb while other versions have the usb and the headphone jack there for are.... bigger I believe.
I saw some pictures on here somewhere that someone took of them trying to put on an different cover and yes while it does indeed clip on the bottom part looks stupid as it had a big gab on either side of where it would normally fit snug on the bottom by the usb port.
Aaron McCarthy said:
Its not just about the PTT button.. the bottom of the back cover will be different. I believe if you need one that will fit the tilt 2 you have to get one that is made JUST for it. By that I mean the cut out for the space where the USB port at the bottom is is different because the tilt 2 just has the usb while other versions have the usb and the headphone jack there for are.... bigger I believe.
I saw some pictures on here somewhere that someone took of them trying to put on an different cover and yes while it does indeed clip on the bottom part looks stupid as it had a big gab on either side of where it would normally fit snug on the bottom by the usb port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no i dont believe, what i meant is the door for the GSM euro TP2
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as you can see if you compare that to the tilt 2 it has the same bottom fitting
i could careless about the PTT button as i heard someone put a euro silver cover on the tilt 2 successfully but didnt put any pics up of it
XERO_Racer said:
no i dont believe, what i meant is the door for the GSM euro TP2
as you can see if you compare that to the tilt 2 it has the same bottom fitting
i could careless about the PTT button as i heard someone put a euro silver cover on the tilt 2 successfully but didnt put any pics up of it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure I know what you mean, but doesn't the AT&T Tilt 2 have a 3.5 mm headset jack? The Euro TP2 has the combined USB headset/usb port. So at the least, even assuming it fit, would you not lose your headset port?
I know you could use an electric drill, but that is a bit extreme...
stevedebi said:
I'm not sure I know what you mean, but doesn't the AT&T Tilt 2 have a 3.5 mm headset jack? The Euro TP2 has the combined USB headset/usb port. So at the least, even assuming it fit, would you not lose your headset port?
I know you could use an electric drill, but that is a bit extreme...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The tilt 2 and the European TP2 both only have the htc modded mini usb on the bottom--no headphone jack. The Verizon and Sprint tp2's have the headphone jacks.....No drill needed.
I would assume as LONG as the door/back cover is from a device that only has a usb port on the button and not a usb port AND headset port then.......... yes it will fit. If you're putting on a cover from a phone that has the usb port and headset port you'll have a pretty large gap, hole, whatever you want to call it, on either side of the port.. well where the cover meets the area where the usb port is. I know this for a fact as I saw someone post a picture on here when they did it to their phone .
If it has the same bottom fitting... Give'r
Related
hello, i was thinking about this for a while... and i think it would be possible, and quite useful to us: we could, according to this pinout: http://pinouts.ru/PDA/htc_extUSB_pinout.shtml
create a bridge from the extUSB pins, that are responsible for audio, to a 3.5mm headphone box... a case mod for making the whole thing includeable shouldn't be too hard... maybe we'll need to make a piece of software that allows us to manually switch to headphone mode, but in theory, it should be possible, i guess.
what do you think?
There is not a lot of unused space inside these things for modding. have you been inside one before? While it is feasible, you must understand that 80% of the people with these phones are not even able to disassemble and reassemble them, let alone intricately wire in a jack and mod the case to fit it. This is a great project for you to try, and take lots of pictures along the way
hmmm, space shouldn't be the problem
http://img5.imagebanana.com/img/jz19lvt3/CIMG5689.JPG what do you think?
imo, if you do this, make some way to integrate this into a 'fat' back cover (for the extended battery)
would be a great mod imo
there does appear to be room for something but how large is a 3.5mm headphone jack case and wiring? that would be my next question. This would be NICE because i hate the OEM headphones and having to carry around and extra cable sucks.
I've been thinking about this for a while now. It certainly is possible to wire it in, and drill a small hole and make a hardware solution. The problem would be that the phone would always detect headphone mode (or would it?)
I would definately try it. Is there more pictures of the internals of the phone to make sure there is enough space? That was always my concern, and I never really bothered to open it up to check.
I agree with the previous guy, the best way to do this would be with the fat back cover.
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Imagine taking that out of it's shell and plugging into the bottom of the phone then wrapping it around to the back side of the phone and mounting inside the extended back case. You would just plug everything into the sides of the back.
Or something like that.
rage2wrath said:
I agree with the previous guy, the best way to do this would be with the fat back cover.
Imagine taking that out of it's shell and plugging into the bottom of the phone then wrapping it around to the back side of the phone and mounting inside the extended back case. You would just plug everything into the sides of the back.
Or something like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought about this awhile back, Not sure how well it would work, if it even would, though.
you shouldn't design your posts as serious as that then.... not funny at all...
anyways, back to topic.... i wanted to check the circuits in order to find a point to solder the 3.5mm box to, since soldering to the usb port is hard as ****. the pins are just too small! don't think anyone knows where those points are on the mainboard... still wanted to post the status...
P.S.: after a while i got so pissed of by checking for that stuff so that i stopped. gonna try again tomorrow :|
the_fish said:
you shouldn't design your posts as serious as that then.... not funny at all...
anyways, back to topic.... i wanted to check the circuits in order to find a point to solder the 3.5mm box to, since soldering to the usb port is hard as ****. the pins are just too small! don't think anyone knows where those points are on the mainboard... still wanted to post the status...
P.S.: after a while i got so pissed of by checking for that stuff so that i stopped. gonna try again tomorrow :|
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i had an idea towards this. tight fit, but it might work. if u tweek everything to size, it might JUST fit. u could connect the adapter on page 1 to the the g1 inside the phone, replace the current miniusb port with the one from the adapter, and then run the headphone jack out near the battery button, or next to the port. im not sure exactly how big the adapter is, but if its small enough (or if u find one small enough) im sure you could get it to fit, and no soldering or extreme wiring required
I use this, it's not bad
If I had a torque that small I'd totally go for it. Wouldn't be that hard. Anyone know the size needed?
the_fish said:
soldering to the usb port is hard as ****. the pins are just too small! |
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's possible. I had to replaced the surface mounted usb port on my old wizard, which is the same size as the dream one. The trick to tiny jobs like this is to drown the whole area in a big blob of solder, then remove the excess with a piece of solder removal wick... However, I don't think putting a 3.5mm socket in the g1 is remotely plausible. From my experience, even the smallest surface mounted socket is too chunky to fit in there. You might just be able to squeeze a 1.75mm socket in, but thats still going to require an adaptor on the end of your headphones.
Um, how would you charge it after said such mod?
How would download items from your computer?
I know some of you guys are super genius but this seems a tad out the realm of possibility.
code72 said:
I use this, it's not bad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey that's pretty cool, where did you get that from?
dkb218 said:
Um, how would you charge it after said such mod?
How would download items from your computer?
I know some of you guys are super genius but this seems a tad out the realm of possibility.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think anyone is talking about removing the usb port...
rage2wrath said:
I agree with the previous guy, the best way to do this would be with the fat back cover.
Imagine taking that out of it's shell and plugging into the bottom of the phone then wrapping it around to the back side of the phone and mounting inside the extended back case. You would just plug everything into the sides of the back.
Or something like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I looked at this gadget as well. My personal idea was to disassemble it, rearrange the bits, and turn it into a dock. The 3.5mm jack could go almost anywhere that way. The problem is that I have no idea how to cast plastic. I need to dig back through my old MAKE magazines.
-bdto
code72 said:
I use this, it's not bad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where did you get it and how much ?
http://www.usbfever.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=989
google is your friend keke.
bundito said:
I looked at this gadget as well. My personal idea was to disassemble it, rearrange the bits, and turn it into a dock. The 3.5mm jack could go almost anywhere that way. The problem is that I have no idea how to cast plastic. I need to dig back through my old MAKE magazines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To make a new back cover? Easily done.
Make a mold from the OEM cover using plaster, clay, whatever.
Once you have the mold made, put a release agent of some sort on it. Grease, wax, anything like that to keep stuff from sticking to the mold.
Get some epoxy. Get some thin fiberglass cloth. Make new back cover.
Best stand ever
$0.99 http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/p...a0OswsgfRP5YaYxu1hsJ6S8Ss%2F4BB9Pc%0ApQ%3D%3D
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Nice. Clean and simple. But... "Best Stand Evah!"? I don't know about that.
There is an Ikea store here, guess I will go check one out. Also might look at Target to see if there is something similar.
not very practical for a touchscreen tablet...
but not bad for a Barbie & Ken Drive-In theater scene
This one is made of chopsticks...
http://www.howgreenworks.com/diy-ipad-chopstick-stand/
sjmoreno said:
This one is made of chopsticks...
http://www.howgreenworks.com/diy-ipad-chopstick-stand/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Knowing IKEA products, the chopsticks option is probably sturdier.
xyrcncp said:
Knowing IKEA products, the chopsticks option is probably sturdier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's an IKEA about 20 minutes from my house and just across the street from my office. They do have a lot of cheap disposal quality crap but they also sell some pricey things that are built really well too.
Thinking more about it, Ikea is not that close, and doing a quick search I could probaby find a table easel made of metal for not much more but local. I would only use it for watching movies when not on the couch. hmm like at the office
Is the bottom of the holder large enough that you could cut a slot in the bottom to make the connector accessible without compromising the structural integrity of the stand?
gangolfus said:
Is the bottom of the holder large enough that you could cut a slot in the bottom to make the connector accessible without compromising the structural integrity of the stand?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What connector are you referring to? The dock connector on the bottom? The USB connector on the top left? The power connector on the lower left?
Looking at the photos it doesn't look like there is any kind of a groove on the horizontal piece of wood so it would seem the tab could slide off pretty easilly if you're poking at the tablet. But it does look like it's about 50% wider than the thickness of the tablet.
If you're talking about having the power cord plugged into it while you have the tablet in portrait mode then why not flip it so that the power port is on top and not the bottom? That's what I do when I use my Arkon foldable stand and I need to charge the tablet at the same time.
sjmoreno said:
What connector are you referring to? The dock connector on the bottom? The USB connector on the top left? The power connector on the lower left?
Looking at the photos it doesn't look like there is any kind of a groove on the horizontal piece of wood so it would seem the tab could slide off pretty easilly if you're poking at the tablet. But it does look like it's about 50% wider than the thickness of the tablet.
If you're talking about having the power cord plugged into it while you have the tablet in portrait mode then why not flip it so that the power port is on top and not the bottom? That's what I do when I use my Arkon foldable stand and I need to charge the tablet at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I meant the dock connector, in the off chance that an HDMI cable ever becomes available.
gangolfus said:
I meant the dock connector, in the off chance that an HDMI cable ever becomes available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah... I think THIS can help you with that.
gangolfus said:
Is the bottom of the holder large enough that you could cut a slot in the bottom to make the connector accessible without compromising the structural integrity of the stand?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need for modifying the stand, just place it upside down, most ROMs and application will auto rotate, you will free the connector as well as get a better viewing angles as reported by many.
sjmoreno said:
Ah... I think THIS can help you with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I have a Dremel, I just wanted to know if the shelf was wide enough to Dremel a hole in it without sawing it in half.
nice pics..
you must have used the g tab's camera.
xyrcncp said:
Knowing IKEA products, the chopsticks option is probably sturdier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mega Lols!
So true!
Looks cool though, I will totally add this to the list when I pick up a Gtab for my lady.
Nice. I've actually been using that same ikea stand for a few weeks now as well. I bought a new one, but found a 7 year old one, which is identical, except that the horizontal shelf sits half an inch higher and the aged wood matches the rear skin protector....
http://phrancis.com/test/P1060248.JPG
Powermat wireless charging is now available to view here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2158978
======================================================================================================================
First let me say big thanks to Ryan_G for creating the Note 2 Wireless charging mod - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1951493
The style/technique I am going to show you is an improvement of my version on page 18 in the above thread - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=33655816&postcount=171
It's very simple, cheap, clean, and easy to do. No soldering required... just folding strips of copper foil tape, and since this is the age of gangnam style, I will call it
Origami Style
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need:
1. Palm Pre Touchstone back cover = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200650663739?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
2. Copper foil tape (6mm) = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360430320375?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
3. Palm touchstone dock with wall charger - you can use an old charger with a 5v with a minimum 1amp and a mini usb plug - http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8474/8138632678_b0959be5ac_c.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charging rate of this mod is around 12% per hour based on my testing...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
==========================
S-Pen problems ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have also experienced this, and it happens when you place the Palm receiver is a little high. You should place the receiver in a low position. Make sure the Palm receiver's bottom is almost aligned to the bottom of the battery. Please see Pic 7 below.
==========================
pics:
Stick the charging unit on the back cover so that it will sit approximately on top of the battery.
Cut about 3-4 inches of 6mm copper foil tape then cut it lentghwise.
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I'll let the pics do the talking....
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6. You need to remove the rubber sticker (see inside green circle) from the touchstone case, and put it on top of the contact points (rolled copper). This will put presure on the contacts as you fit the Note 2's back cover.
7. Below pic, green arrows show the approximate location of the copper on the back cover. The copper contacts on the back cover don't need to be perfectly aligned with rolled copper contacts on the phone, but this is your choice to make... (look at the green arrows again, and pic no. 10 below) Click link just below the picture for bigger image.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8176857101_c857bec63b_k.jpg
8. On the back of the phone, on the right side of the battery are the terminals, stick another copper tape with rolled ends on each. Please note the top contact is the Positive, and the bottom is Negative, don't panic if the bottom copper tape comes in contact with the little screw as they are both negative.
9. You can see in pic below the rubber sticker I mentioned earlier in picture no. 6
bigger pic here: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8489/8176892024_b5f1333d95_k.jpg
10. This is how they will line up... don't forget to insulate the other exposed parts of the copper tape. I use Kapton tape, but you can use anything like electrical tape.
#############################################################
I have successfully used this mod with a Rock case. I had to sand the inner side of the case though.
##############################################################
Mod versions:
V1 = "Z" connector, needs etching and most expensive and time consuming
video
V2 = Origami
V3 = modified V1. Does not require etching so saves time and dosh.
video below.
Please NOTE, the mod below causes S-Pens problems. The only reson is that the receiver is a little too high. Once I replaced the contacts to the original "Z" design, the problem with S-Pen was gone.
I was also hoping to do this mod to a powermat wireless charging unit, but I was disappointed to find out the powermat receiver unit is so thick. See pictures below:
image below shows the actual innards of the powermat universal receiver which is charging my wife's Desire HD phone. Look at the light on the left from the powermat dock, and the green light on the phone.
image below shows the palm toughstone front alongside the powermat
and below shows the back sides ;-}
palm/powermat porn:
here we can clearly see the thickness on the powermat.
Only hope we have to be able to utilize the powermat is if there are Note 2 back cases that have more room inside to accommodate the thickness of the powermat, or if there is a thinner powermat receiver.
Confirmed works on the following variants:
N7100 International version
N7105 INternational version - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=33830216&postcount=239
Canadian i317M (Bell Canada) - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=34140856&postcount=29
AT&T - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=34191869&postcount=298
Confirmed does not work on:
(Copied from Ryan-G's wireless thread - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1951493 0
US TMobile Note II SGH-T889 (Has the charging pins for wireless charging)
Please see http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1978276
Sprint Note II (has no slots for charging pins, but confirmed working when taking the middle housing cover off and finding the wireless charging contacts underneath)
Have a look at this http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=240
This looks interesting....
Awesome! Eagerly awaiting!
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Good news!
sent with my beast N2, powered by Cis80 and the red pill...
Nice work
Inviato dal mio CIS N2-7100 con tapatalk 2
Nice Thanks for sharing!
About to pull the trigger on this- can you share the ebay link where you got the copper tape from? Don't know which one to get
very useful..!
Don't forget to put some insulating tape over all that exposed copper... You just want the ends exposed.
so this really works? wireless charging just sounds like it wouldn't exist lol. how good does it charge and how exactly?
You never heard of Nikola Tesla?
He in theory proved that you can deliver electrical current thru the air or via the clouds...
Imagine having free electric. Now who do you think doesn't want that to happen
Nuf OT.
Is it a must to have copper tape? How about thin gold tape?
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
how far do you have to be from a device? and generally everywhere you got there is one readily available?
entwicklun said:
how far do you have to be from a device? and generally everywhere you got there is one readily available?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the phone needs to be docked
entwicklun said:
so this really works? wireless charging just sounds like it wouldn't exist lol. how good does it charge and how exactly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a very simple principle that's been around for decades... Electric toothbrushes have used it for years due to the safety around water.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductive_charging
I meant to ask this in the other thread but I'll ask here...
Does this affect the S-Pen function since it uses magnets?
I have all the parts ready to go but am slightly hesitant.
Can this be done, and has it been, on the sprint version?
sent from my sgs2e4t running cm10.
Subd
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using xda app-developers app
mikelav456 said:
Can this be done, and has it been, on the sprint version?
sent from my sgs2e4t running cm10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently this mod does not dowrk with: (Taken from the first page of Ryan_G's wireless thread...
US TMobile Note II SGH-T889 (Has the charging pins for wireless charging)
Please see http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1978276
AT&T Note II (Same as US TMobile, has the charging pins but doesn't work)
Sprint Note II (has no slots for charging pins, but confirmed working when taking the middle housing cover off and finding the wireless charging contacts underneath)
Have a look at this http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=240
CitizenLee said:
I meant to ask this in the other thread but I'll ask here...
Does this affect the S-Pen function since it uses magnets?
I have all the parts ready to go but am slightly hesitant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope it doesn't affect any of the S-Pen function or even the compass, and NFC work normal aswell. The magnets are not strong plus the battery seems to shield it from the rest of the phone. I use the s pen for notes practically everyday for my job, I've also attached a screenshot of the Wacom Test which you can enter by dialing *#0*#
So I own a 32 ATT N6, I really wanted a white N6, but didn't want to shell out the 700 bucks for it up front, so just got the att. Once I found a middle housing for the white available on eBay, I had to give it a try. Just thought I'd share a few pictures, thoughts and my experience and tips about swapping them.
First the link to the silver housing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Housing-Mid...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3a9eedce51
Took about 2 weeks or so for it to arrive, not terrible, but not amazon quick obviously. As far as I could tell, this is a real deal housing, looks good and other than the color, seemed to be identical to the stock blue.
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A few things to notice,
The new housing came with a new qi charging coil.
Did NOT come with a sim tray (This was disappointing, I guess I shouldn't have assumed it came with it)
No camera ring flash
Power/Volume cable was not connected
No FCC marking on the bottom of the housing
So you will have to remove the "ring flash" from your current blue N6, or buy a new one, and you may have to attach the power/volume ribbon cable to the connector. There is a little flap you raise and then slide it in, simple, just wasn't expecting it. The camera ring flash popped out pretty easily, pretty straight forward.
The biggest "issues" I ran into where,
Removing the old QI coil was not easy, or I should say removing it and keeping it clean/nice looking was not easy. If you look at the way the housing is put together, I think you need to use the new QI coil. Maybe not, but I think you'd be asking for trouble if you try to pull off the old QI coil and reuse it.
And my biggest mistake, I got it all back together, powered it up, and ran through a small list of tests to make sure I had everything working. Thought I did, so closed it up completely. WELL, apparently the top, or earpiece speaker is attached to the old housing. The ifixit video I was watching made no reference to this, and I didn't notice it. It's super simple to swap, just pressure connection, but I over looked it. SO don't be like me and have to take it apart twice.
Results.
Got everything back together, the housing fit fine, no issues with fit or finish, everything is working, and I think it looks great.
Feel free to ask any questions, I'll try to answer them the best I can.
Thanks
Peace
Dan
I may have to try this, id much prefer a white N6 but for the same reasons as you went with the blue
Thank you for sharing. I'm seriously considering this as well, but I've never done anything like it before.
You can use the Qi charger connection from the stock battery, way easier imo. Just remove the battery with Qi and swap it into the new housing. Take something small and pry up the one ribbon cable that keeps the qi ribbon in the housing. :good:
BTW, if anyone wants one of these and doesn't wanna wait two weeks, PM me....I have an extra.
Just did this myself, went from Blue to White... White mid-housing, w/ White back... a little tricky but in the end worked quite nice. Used the new QI coil with existing battery... even ordered new White SIM tray.
I've read that a dunk in some grease remover will remove the blue anodizing basically leaving you with the silver housing from the white Nexus. I'm wondering if this is the case for the sim tray as well. I ordered this housing but no tray as they are almost $15. Seems over priced.
Update:
Swap done. 3 screws stripped and had to be drilled/tapped but otherwise an easy job.
http://kryon.smugmug.com/Purenexus/i-bRKJdsk/0/O/OPERATIONPNbanner5x1.png
Your guide was very helpful and I thank you for that. I completed the change-out without issue and the phone looks so much nicer with the white back and silver frame. It's like getting a new phone. Also, this Ebay link is to a dealer selling the frame and back together for $30.95 which is a steel for both. They also sell the silver sim tray and will ship together. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252052573761?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The buttons and sim tray can be soaked in Greased Lightning degreaser for 30 mins to remove the blue if you don't wanna spend for the silver ones.
That's how I did mine when I deanodized my N6.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
@rx2mazda did you remove the new qi coil (should be easy?) and simply drop the battery with the stock qi coil back in place?
I wish I have the balls to do this change.
The white housing looks awesome.
This post inspired me. Just got my silver housing and white back today. Swapping it out this weekend.
Thank you for this post! I have been thinking about doing this ever since I first got my Nexus 6. (Sprint only has blue as well) I really wanted the White Nexus 6 originally. Sure, I could just get a replacement white back but the blue bezel would still drive me nuts! I am going to order the housing / back / sim tray right now! I just have a couple questions:
What were the trickiest parts? I am mainly wondering about the camera. Was it hard to swap the camera, camera cover, flash over to the new housing?
I am going to order myself a nice clear case finally to! I like the Ringke Fusion, but I seriously hated the Midnight Blue scheme that bad that I would not get it! And why midnight blue anyways? Why couldnt they be black or white like normal phones? lol. They should of both had the same silver bezel and been available in black and white. Damn midnight blue.....
Also, with the display off can you get at the speakers I assume? I would love to clean the speaker grills spotless....
i found some sets that includes the sim tray, but after looking for the individual sim tray on ebay, i found that a lot are selling the micro-sim version.
can anyone confirm that either of these sets include nano sim?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/White-Back-C...-Google-Nexus-6-Motorola-Shamu-/361315725737?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Motor...y-/271894817168?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123
Are you a work on your own car kinda person? If so, could you give me an idea of what kind of job this is? Would love to do it, just want to know what I would be getting into.
Hamm1701 said:
Are you a work on your own car kinda person? If so, could you give me an idea of what kind of job this is? Would love to do it, just want to know what I would be getting into.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not sure how a car plays into this. but here is the tear down video and guide: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+6+Teardown/32877
So I just did this using ifixit as a guide. Ordered the set with the back cover and the nano sim (other wise the sim holder would have been $15 on its own). Only complaint with this set is that the sim holder's colour does not match the rest of the silver housing. I'd expect an item that small, that is usually $15 on its own, to have its colours right.
Rough steps:
-22 screws
-3 cables to reconnect
-flash ring and vibrate motor to transfer over
-make sure old glue is cleaned from any transfered parts
-use the original (attached) wireless charging coil to the battery
Notes:
-be careful when transferring the battery and the wireless charging coil, there is thin cable held by tape near the camera that is quite thin and tricky to align again
- be careful of the battery connector at the bottom, the plastic clip that gave leverage breaks very easily
- the cable that connects the power and volume buttons goes into the obvious connector beside it, but the connector has a plastic flip that goes up before the cable gets inserted, then down to secure the connection. It does not just slide in.
Hamm1701 said:
Are you a work on your own car kinda person? If so, could you give me an idea of what kind of job this is? Would love to do it, just want to know what I would be getting into.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IMO, it's way too much work/risk just to have a different color housing. I wouldn't even put a different color back on it. Would rather just slap a skin on it. No risk and looks great.
Did the mid frame come with a white back cover?
So I opened up my Nvidia shield tablet k1 today and saw that the internal stylus holder is actually still there. For the reason of budget costs I guess Nvidia decided to remove the "hole" that once let you sheath your stylus there. I havn't found any tutorials online that showed how to cut a decent sized hole to let the stylus rest in. So I guess I'll ask.... has anyone done it before successfully here?
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I've done something similar with a dremel and a couple of files in the past. It's something I plan on doing on my K1 now that I have a brand new device to play with.
Considering the the age of the device, I doubt anyone has tried this out yet.
Drilling a hole in the side of the tablet seems extreme. I have been searching for a case that might be able to hold the styles as well but with no luck. I have flip cover for the k1 and have been trying to think of a good idea as how to stow the styles on to it. For example if I had a piece of stretchy material that I attached to the cover somehow I could slide the styles into the makeshift pocket and it could hold the styles when not in use.
Would I be right in thinking that the back cover of the older model would fit the newer one? Seems like it would be a nicer solution than drilling and cutting. You could possibly even get some of the missing internal components that way. Just need to find a broken 2014 tablet.
If this fails you can always do what I plan on doing in case this proves to be futile. Attach magnets to either like on the Surface Book. On a side note: The back cover already is "precut", as is the whole stylus mounting hole as seen here:
That is really interesting! They kept costs low by using the same molds to create the plastic parts.
A quick question seeing as you've opened your back cover already: is there a button/mechanism in the stylus groove that could potentially detect if a stylus is removed? Just wondering if they still left that in there (hopeful thinking! )
fl4r3 said:
That is really interesting! They kept costs low by using the same molds to create the plastic parts.
A quick question seeing as you've opened your back cover already: is there a button/mechanism in the stylus groove that could potentially detect if a stylus is removed? Just wondering if they still left that in there (hopeful thinking! )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly that module is missing, so no hopes there. The speaker cable is also in the way and has to be taped down or something to the frame if you want to fit the stylus later on.
I knew it was unlikely but thought it was worth checking.
At least there's a place to store a stylus (although after drilling into the tablet).
Guys....I did it. I just used a file and filed away, put the cover back on, and inserted the stylus. It's perfect. I would take a picture but I don't have a camera.
jacobvsmith said:
Guys....I did it. I just used a file and filed away, put the cover back on, and inserted the stylus. It's perfect. I would take a picture but I don't have a camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tablet + Mirror.
Sorry, could not resist pointing out the lack of a camera irony whilst talking of a device with 2 built in.
I will admit that probably wouldn't make come out at a good enough angle to show the work well, but hope you got a quick chuckle.
zarish said:
Tablet + Mirror.
Sorry, could not resist pointing out the lack of a camera irony whilst talking of a device with 2 built in.
I will admit that probably wouldn't make come out at a good enough angle to show the work well, but hope you got a quick chuckle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
post memes and op will give chuckles.
Please teach me how to do dis... Going to buy the stylus soon...
I just read this and thought I'd pop open my K1 to see for myself. Yep. It's there. Wow.
I'd drill a hole in mine too but I have two problems:
1. That cable.
2. Dust/Water etc.
Sent from my SM-G935V using XDA-Developers mobile app
Anyone drilled and try to make use of the stylus slot?
care to share some finished image?
would definitely like to see how it goes.
I "drilled" a hole also, the stylus sticks perfectly, but there was a cable in the way. just som sticky thingy to hold the cable and youre done
http://i.imgur.com/bX0YXMS.jpg
I did that too. Used some files and some crazy glue (for the cable). Works great. I have some pictures here http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tablet/general/modding-directstylus-slot-shield-k1-t3408090
operative1 said:
I did that too. Used some files and some crazy glue (for the cable). Works great. I have some pictures here http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tablet/general/modding-directstylus-slot-shield-k1-t3408090
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would probably cover the ribbon with tape to prevent the stylus from sliding on the cable over time. Kapton tape would be the tape to use. How did you shape the notch in the back cover. Also when filing the metal area for the cable did you not worry about filings getting on the mainboard.
mirrin said:
I would probably cover the ribbon with tape to prevent the stylus from sliding on the cable over time. Kapton tape would be the tape to use. How did you shape the notch in the back cover. Also when filing the metal area for the cable did you not worry about filings getting on the mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable is covered in a mixture of super glue and fine powder. No worries about shavings since I worked under constant airflow from the mainboard side to blow dust and shavings away
As for shaping the notch I used some jewelers files that had the right curve to them.
Stylus sensor can generally be found with 'nvidia shield digitizer' on ebay - sellers currently parting out new original style tablets - not real cheap, but you get a spare digitizer!
Gremlin60 said:
Stylus sensor can generally be found with 'nvidia shield digitizer' on ebay - sellers currently parting out new original style tablets - not real cheap, but you get a spare digitizer!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But why would they leave the whole circuit and components for the sensor if the sensor is not there...
They did 2 things to the main board a radio microcode update and the sensor removed from assembly any capacitors or resistors on the pen sensor circuit should also be left out... In addition they do have 2 different updates for the 2 tablets I imagine the k1 does not have the sensor as an active element...
That said i dont see that there is a whole lot of extra functionality given aside from auto wake on pen removal....