Hello all.
While I was taking my HD2 apart to replace a cracked screen (glass digitizer) I accidentally broke the connector off one of the wires. The wire is black and a few inches long with a silver and round press on connector on each end. It attaches to the board that houses the vibrator motor and runs down the right side of the phone (if you were looking at it face down and partially disassembled).
Unfortunately, I lost the metal piece that broke off the wire (the thing is tiny!), so I can't just solder it back on. Any idea on where I can buy a replacement? I've spent about 6 hours today on ebay and google to no avail. Searching for "HD2 black wire" and anything similar is hardly efficient, but that's all I know about it.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris
Good question, I think I damaged the cable to the volume buttons so it would be cool if someone has an adress where we can get spare parts except LCD and Digitizer..
this guy on ebay seems to be selling an HD2 in parts. you might find what you need here:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Right-Click-Enterprises/_i.html?_nkw=hd2&submit=Search&_sid=131407386
Thanks, I sent that guy a message and hopefully it'll work out.
Anyone else have a source?
connector of my hd2 is also broken HTC says that the mainboard must be change and I have to pay € 230 because that is my responsibility
I think you have damaged your coaxial cable connector for wifi and bluetooth. Google will help you perhaps.
I believe that my wifi/bluetooth cable is broken, as I have no wifi or bluetooth signal since dropping my phone as reported in a previous post of mine. Can anybody advise me on the difficulty of undertaking this repair myself, does it involve complete disassembly of phone, any soldering etc. If this is the case I don't feel confident enough to do this so does anybody know of someone who does this sort of repair, I have found the cable on e bay for £7 and it looks like it has push on connectors ?
if the connectors on the boards are not broken then all you need is the coaxial cable with connectors on the two end. you need not disassemble the whole set, just open the back cover, connect one end of the cable to mother board and other end to the rigid flex board and that's it.
WiFi and Bluetooth not working
raincybercafe said:
if the connectors on the boards are not broken then all you need is the coaxial cable with connectors on the two end. you need not disassemble the whole set, just open the back cover, connect one end of the cable to mother board and other end to the rigid flex board and that's it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think that this is my problem as since I dropped my HD2 I have no wifi (unless sat ontop of router) or bluetooth or fm radio, is it easy to get to the coax cable by removing back cover, whereabouts is it ?
raincybercafe said:
if the connectors on the boards are not broken then all you need is the coaxial cable with connectors on the two end. you need not disassemble the whole set, just open the back cover, connect one end of the cable to mother board and other end to the rigid flex board and that's it.[/QUOTE
Fixed it, opened up phone and spotted that at one end of the black wire the connector was not pushed onto the motherboard securely, I pushed it home and hey presto, wifi and Bluetooth now working, phew, Thanks for your help !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Related
I've made sure I purchased the correct replacement for my screen. Followed a guide and got it all hooked up. The phone powers on but I get a white screen.
Anyone have any guesses as to what could be causing this?
Your help would be much appreciated as I would hate buying another phone.
Incorrect ribbon cable seat.
Take it apart and make sure that both the ribbon cable on the side, and the bottom with the tiny black screws are properly seated.
Yea i have tried all of that....but I just tried tinkering with it again and i was able to get a partial picture by changing the back pressure of where the LCD ribbon plugs into the other ribbon assembly the buttons are connected to.
So I am guessing there needs to be a super secure conenction at this point. Problem is...the black latch that holds the cable from the LCD to the other ribbon is broke so i cant make it pinch the cable.
Anyone know where I can find a replacement for this other than buying a broken hemes for parts?
You need the flex cable connection, and there is a site in canada that has them.
www.cnn.cn
Yea I checked that out....I don't see it, do you?
teknics said:
You need the flex cable connection, and there is a site in canada that has them.
www.cnn.cn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.cn is china not canada.
Good point - ca = canada
Please help, I miss my tablet.I had the common problem with the power thingy inside the tablet going out so i opened it to solder but did not fix.So i ordered the charging dock and waited for a month and a half.I get it today and was so excited to only plug it it and got power and charging everything is perfect,i go to swipe over on my arrow to unlock the screen and nothing!I have no touch controls on screen what so ever.But the soft keys work,they do not do me any good but they work.The home key takes me to my home page and mag glass goes to the internet.Does any body have any ideas of what could have happened or what i can do to fix this,please????
alcapone1130 said:
Does any body have any ideas of what could have happened or what i can do to fix this,please????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, check for disconnected or loose cables inside the gTab.
Next, if it isn't a HW fault like loose cables, then connect the USB cable to the gTab and run this ADB command (you will have to install and set up ADB if you haven't already done so):
Code:
C:\SOME\PATH> [B]adb shell "echo -n 1 > /sys/devices/platform/tegra_touch/calibration"[/B]
Digitizer Cable/Connection
alcapone1130 said:
Please help, I miss my tablet.I had the common problem with the power thingy inside the tablet going out so i opened it to solder but did not fix.So i ordered the charging dock and waited for a month and a half.I get it today and was so excited to only plug it it and got power and charging everything is perfect,i go to swipe over on my arrow to unlock the screen and nothing!I have no touch controls on screen what so ever.But the soft keys work,they do not do me any good but they work.The home key takes me to my home page and mag glass goes to the internet.Does any body have any ideas of what could have happened or what i can do to fix this,please????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The attached pdf contains photos of the digitizer/cables and their connections inside the gtab. Check for loose connection and/or broken wires on both ends.
Al
aabbondanza said:
The attached pdf contains photos of the digitizer/cables and their connections inside the gtab. Check for loose connection and/or broken wires on both ends.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok,First thank you so much for helping.Ok,One of the cables you shown does have two broken wires,it is the kind of short wire with black cloth like material over it that runs unde the shiny brown plastic piece.Is there a way to fix that or rig it to get me back up and touching again?Thank you again for helping me out,and you already pinpointed my problem,now i am hoping you can fix it,lol.
Where is the break?
alcapone1130 said:
Ok,First thank you so much for helping.Ok,One of the cables you shown does have two broken wires,it is the kind of short wire with black cloth like material over it that runs unde the shiny brown plastic piece.Is there a way to fix that or rig it to get me back up and touching again?Thank you again for helping me out,and you already pinpointed my problem,now i am hoping you can fix it,lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume since you didn't send in under warranty for the power connector that it's no longer under warrantly!
Exactly where is the break? Close to (or at) one of the connectors? Which end (motherboard end or digitizer end) of the cable? Obviously closness to the connector makes it more difficult. I have seen a post where another use had the break pretty close to the connector & fixed it though.
Al
I totally forgot that i made a youtube video yesterday,here is the address http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFNRtDhr5EQ I have been so stressed out about getting my gtab back it slipped my mind.Oh, the broken end is what plugs under the silver area not under the brown area.
aabbondanza said:
I assume since you didn't send in under warranty for the power connector that it's no longer under warrantly!
Exactly where is the break? Close to (or at) one of the connectors? Which end (motherboard end or digitizer end) of the cable? Obviously closness to the connector makes it more difficult. I have seen a post where another use had the break pretty close to the connector & fixed it though.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I totally forgot that i made a youtube video yesterday,here is the address http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFNRtDhr5EQ I have been so stressed out about getting my gtab back it slipped my mind.Oh, the broken end is what plugs under the silver area not under the brown area.
alcapone1130 said:
I totally forgot that i made a youtube video yesterday,here is the address http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFNRtDhr5EQ I have been so stressed out about getting my gtab back it slipped my mind.Oh, the broken end is what plugs under the silver area not under the brown area.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you magnify the digitizer circuit (lower photo in the pdf) you will see the label for each of the lines in the cable. Assuming the lines run straight thru, it looks like the ones that broke are the power & ground to the circuit (VSS & GND). That would explain the touch screen not working at all.
Hard to tell from the video where the breakis, but it looks real close to the connector.
Your best bet may be looking for someone who has a broken digitizer (outer glass) or gTab and is selling it for parts. I looked in the Marketplace forum here on XDA & there is one non working gtablet someone is asking $55 for. I also saw another one up for bid on ebay ($40 latest bid). You my have to ask if the cable is good on them.
Not a whole lot of options for repair. As you've already experienced, the cable is small & fragile.
If the connector has removable pins then you could remove the pins, solder the wire to it & reinsert the pins, BUT from the picture it doesn't look like they are removeable.
You could solder the 2 wires to the pins coming out the back of the socket but they look too small to easily solder to.
The last option would be to rigg the cable to work. There are a couple of possibilites but I would rather you consider the other options before suggesting a repair of the cable itself. If you can, see if you can take a closeup, high res photo of the back fo the connector where the wire broke. PM me & I'll send you my email address to send it too.
Al
aabbondanza said:
If you magnify the digitizer circuit (lower photo in the pdf) you will see the label for each of the lines in the cable. Assuming the lines run straight thru, it looks like the ones that broke are the power & ground to the circuit (VSS & GND). That would explain the touch screen not working at all.
Hard to tell from the video where the breakis, but it looks real close to the connector.
Your best bet may be looking for someone who has a broken digitizer (outer glass) or gTab and is selling it for parts. I looked in the Marketplace forum here on XDA & there is one non working gtablet someone is asking $55 for. I also saw another one up for bid on ebay ($40 latest bid). You my have to ask if the cable is good on them.
Not a whole lot of options for repair. As you've already experienced, the cable is small & fragile.
If the connector has removable pins then you could remove the pins, solder the wire to it & reinsert the pins, BUT from the picture it doesn't look like they are removeable.
You could solder the 2 wires to the pins coming out the back of the socket but they look too small to easily solder to.
The last option would be to rigg the cable to work. There are a couple of possibilites but I would rather you consider the other options before suggesting a repair of the cable itself. If you can, see if you can take a closeup, high res photo of the back fo the connector where the wire broke. PM me & I'll send you my email address to send it too.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow,Thank you so so much,Can you get me in contact with the guy with the gtab for $55.00,i will buy it and transfer the cash to him immediately,that sounds like the best bet.I will msg you a really good photo still,incase i can not get my hands on the one for sale,but if i can let him know or maybe you could let him know that i will buy it quick enough maybe i can end up with it.I would really feel better just swapping the cable out with another.I will talk back with you tomorrow and again thank you for your time and great help,i really owe you.
Marketplace & Non Working Tab Links
alcapone1130 said:
Wow,Thank you so so much,Can you get me in contact with the guy with the gtab for $55.00,i will buy it and transfer the cash to him immediately,that sounds like the best bet.I will msg you a really good photo still,incase i can not get my hands on the one for sale,but if i can let him know or maybe you could let him know that i will buy it quick enough maybe i can end up with it.I would really feel better just swapping the cable out with another.I will talk back with you tomorrow and again thank you for your time and great help,i really owe you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are several link for you
1. XDA Marketplace http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1321
2. Link to "Wanting to sell" subformum where I found the non working gtab (used forum search for gtablet) http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=476
3. Link to not working gTab http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1436549&highlight=gtablet.
Take a look at this post & email him to make sure you want it.
Al
aabbondanza said:
Here are several link for you
1. XDA Marketplace http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1321
2. Link to "Wanting to sell" subformum where I found the non working gtab (used forum search for gtablet) http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=476
3. Link to not working gTab http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1436549&highlight=gtablet.
Take a look at this post & email him to make sure you want it.
Al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its amazing what a couple of stripped bread ties will doo,lol.I took a bread tie and stripped the paper off of it,cut it to the length I needed and wrapped the remaining wire to one end and pushed the other end of the tie inside the pin hole,lol.It worked like a champ! MY Grab has been up and running for over a month,I just knocked on my coffee table,lol.Thank you for helping me out I really appreciated you trying everything to help me.I am so happy to have it back,now if I can just figure out why I keep seeing black boxes on my games when I play them I will really be doing fine.Thank you again.
I opened my tablet to try and fix the signal strength on my wifi and gps. everything was going great until my screen turned a little and bam... the ribbon cable came out of the connector. When I went to pry the lock up it broke(very cheap connector). I tried to insert the ribbon back in but I noticed when some of the black plasctic that broke away there were wires that seemed to run through it. Anyway long story short. Can I remove the connector and wire the ribbon to the board? Is there anyway to fix it other than ordering a new pcb board? Any ideas would be appreciated. It is working now but there are spots on the screen that do not accept input or touch. I have used electrical tape to tape it in place for now. Thanks inn advance!
Sorry bro I think your s.o.l. those ribbon s are not really repairable and the main display one j think has 24 connectors or so. Soldering those is next to impossible. Same with the touch panel ones.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using XDA
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
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Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
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I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9
Hi All,
I have a Nokia 7.1 that stopped charging. I cleaned out the charge port and tried different cables and adapters but nothing worked. I've since come to find out that it's a common enough problem that lots of people post about it on Nokia's support forum with no other option other than taking it to a service center. I'm in the USA and there's not a single service center in my state so I decided to try and replace the daughter board myself. I've done this kind of thing before on other phones, my Nexus 4 was a frankenstein's monster by the time I was done with it.
My problem is I can't find a reliable source for a quality part. There's tons of replacements on amazon, ebay, aliexpress and other random sites but all the ones I've read had issues for connectivity of cell service or wifi. Does anyone know where I can source a new daughter board for this phone?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!
I went through the same issue.
Bought another type c charging port on Amazon, it still works.
Awesome! Thanks for the reply. Did you go with one of the ~$10 ones or one of the ~$20 ones?
My 7.1 developed the same problem. What is the root cause? Is it mechanical problem of the connector pins worn out/oxidized? It does seem to be a mechanical problem since I can still wiggle the cable to make it charge for a while. What puzzles me is that the USB-C has inherent redundancy with 4 power and 4 ground pins that it should not easily fail. I have a phone with the old micro-USB and the charging still works flawlessly.
lejaune said:
My 7.1 developed the same problem. What is the root cause? Is it mechanical problem of the connector pins worn out/oxidized? It does seem to be a mechanical problem since I can still wiggle the cable to make it charge for a while. What puzzles me is that the USB-C has inherent redundancy with 4 power and 4 ground pins that it should not easily fail. I have a phone with the old micro-USB and the charging still works flawlessly.
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I'm not sure. It does seem to be a mechanical problem, but I've seen some repair videos where they open it up and just run a soldering iron over the connector pins on the board and it starts working again. I've ordered a daughter board and a replacement back glass panel in case I break it trying to get it off. I'll update after I get the parts and open it up to see if it works.
The board I ordered was this one from Amazon Smile:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08166DLDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It seems like the ~$10 boards are missing some chips that the ~$20 ones have, at least according to the pictures that were uploaded with the listing.
@bpowdhar, Thanks for the quick reply. I did order a connector board on Ebay, and it looks to be of the ~$10 variety. I'll see how it works when it gets here. I will also try the "melting the solder" trick without removing the connector first. If that works, I'll leave the old board in place just to minimize the risk.
So I received the USB-C charging board and replaced the bad one. Now, it seems to be charging normally. It took some work to open the back cover by heating to soften the glue/tape around the edge. I then used an a xacto knife to pry the corner open followed by dragging an old credit card to slowly separate the cover. Once it's open, everything went smoothly. Just watch one of several Youtube video clips to know what to expect. You do need a small Philips screwdriver and a #5 Torx driver. You need to lift a ribbon cable and a micro coax cable from the board. Just don't forget to put them back on to the new board. I didn't bother to fix the old board by re-solder the connector pins because they are way too small for my solder iron.
I rely on the existing glue/tape to glue the cover back, but I'm sure it's not as water/dust proof as before, so I may redo that part to clean the old tape out and use the new tape or glue when I have more time.
I do noticed a couple of parts missing on my $9 board. I don't know if they have anything to do with regulating the high voltage fast charging. I usually charge the phone with a 5V adapter, and I will stick to 5V, at least for now.
Thanks for the update! I'm still waiting for my board to arrive from Amazon. It was delayed with the new shipping date anywhere from Nov 5 - Nov 10 and it still hasn't arrived. It sucks because tracking info shows that it arrived at my area's sorting facility on Oct 29 and left it on Nov 4. So it should have only taken a day or two to get to my local post office and to my house. I'll update when it finally gets here.
I know it's been a couple of months, but I finally got the part and swapped it out yesterday. The battery was completely dead so I plugged it in to charge and left for the day. I came back to it this morning and it's at 100% battery! I'm so happy now! I've attached a couple of pictures showing the old board (with the red dot) and the new one. So far no connectivity issues, but I'll give it a couple of weeks to see if anything changes.
A couple other notes:
It was surprisingly easy to get the back glass off. I used a heat gun on low and ran it around the perimeter for a couple of minutes and a utility knife to cut the adhesive. This part was what I was most apprehensive about tackling.
The fingerprint sensor comes off the same way, apply heat and press / pry away from the glass to reuse.
If I had to do it again, I'd buy the tube of sealant. The replacement glass came with a set of narrow adhesive strips and those were a pain to deal with.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread. Hopefully this helps someone else.