Hey everyone,
I have a real strange behavior when I charge my X10.
When I plug it into a normal USB Slot of my PC, X10 recognizes it as USB, normal.
When I plug it into the AC-USB Converter, X10 recognizes it as AC, normal too.
But now where is the difference between, except the 200mA difference. I mean, charging with USB is really slow and takes sometimes up to 18 hours for full-charge. AC just need 2-3 hours (I think )
I have a Car-lighter to USB converter and X10 recognizes it as USB, too, although it provides 1.2A, so much more dann the normal AC adapter.
I have a friend with USB 3.0 connectors (supports 1A) but it will be recognized as USB, too -> slow charge.
Is there a "hack" or something like that, that at least my car-lighter charger can give his full power? I think it has to do with the voltage-divider inside of the charger.
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"Das Problem dabei ist, das es für den Lademodus keine Norm gab. Erst im März 2007 wurde die "USB Battery Charging Specification"[1] veröffentlich. Danach müssen die beiden Datenleitungen mit einem Widerstand von höchsten 200 Ohm kurzgeschlossen werden. Da diese sehr jung ist, gibt es bisher wenig Geräte die sich daran halten (Es muss natürlich auch die Entwicklungszeit der Geräte berücksichtigt werden)."
"The Problem is, that there is no standard for charging USB-powered devices. In the end of March 2007 the "USB Battery Charging Specification" was published. It says, that the two Data-lines has to be bypassed with a resistor of 200 Ohm maximum. [...]"
http://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/IPod_Ladegerät
German site of explantion of IPod charger.
Thanks a lot (at least for reading this long post )
Yes. If you want your x10 to recognize your charger as an AC adapter and pull the most power from it do this:
Open your charger and cut the connection to pins 2 & 3 and short them together at the USB connector end (do not short them at the voltage divider side).
This will signal your x10 to pull the higher charging current from the charger. It doesn't really matter if your charger can supply a million amps... the phone will only draw what it needs/wants. The trick is to make it recognize the charger as capable of delivering more power. The data pins are how this is done. Unfortunately, most chargers give a specific voltage on these pins to work with Apple products (which do not adhere to the USB charging standard).
AC is alternating current, so it charges on both the positive and negative portion of the waveform...
The max usb current is 500 mA
Wall charger = approximately 1A
There is no hack for this, if I'm understanding you correctly you wish to try to convert the signal from your cigarette lighter in your car so that it is read as a steady ac source?
Due to the fact that it is a converter, it is already converting the signal..
Even if it was possible, I wouldn't recommend it.
sparkdroid said:
Yes. If you want your x10 to recognize your charger as an AC adapter and pull the most power from it do this:
Open your charger and cut the connection to pins 2 & 3 and short them together at the USB connector end (do not short them at the voltage divider side).
This will signal your x10 to pull the higher charging current from the charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't recommend this as it would stop it from limiting current as well...
You could very easily surge
There is nothing preventing your phone from taking a surge at anytime. The cig charger will have a fuse in it (or it should) and that is all that is protecting your phone from surges. If you read the USB standard this is the method used to tell the phone it is connected to a charger capable of delivering more than 500 mA of current.
sparkdroid said:
Yes. If you want your x10 to recognize your charger as an AC adapter and pull the most power from it do this:
Open your charger and cut the connection to pins 2 & 3 and short them together at the USB connector end (do not short them at the voltage divider side).
This will signal your x10 to pull the higher charging current from the charger. It doesn't really matter if your charger can supply a million amps... the phone will only draw what it needs/wants. The trick is to make it recognize the charger as capable of delivering more power. The data pins are how this is done. Unfortunately, most chargers give a specific voltage on these pins to work with Apple products (which do not adhere to the USB charging standard).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As it is no longer a bridge, it is no longer a fully balanced load... if, for example, you had your phone plugged in when starting the car it would be possible to draw more with the configuration you are demonstrating.
I would recommend this op...
http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/Wagan_2/wagan_inverters_slim_line_ac_inverters.html
I work as an electrical engineer, I'm just trying to make sure you don't fry your phone
sparkdroid said:
There is nothing preventing your phone from taking a surge at anytime. The cig charger will have a fuse in it (or it should) and that is all that is protecting your phone from surges. If you read the USB standard this is the method used to tell the phone it is connected to a charger capable of delivering more than 500 mA of current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed, but the balance of a wheatstone bridge also provides some form of current limiting
did you ever looked on the charger? Input AC, Output DC, so there is no difference between normal USB and charger USB. That means you can use the car-lighter as well as the common AC adapter, but as i mentioned before, the X10 won't load at "high" current.
I will test, if there is really 0 Ohm between the two Data-Pins, because of the standard there has to be a resistor I won't kill my phone for that
And yeah, it really could have 1MA, but the phone will only take as much as it need.
I would recommend this op...
http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/Waga...inverters.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No? Why should I take the DC signal, transform it into a AC signal with a loose of 20% and then convert it back again to DC with again a loose of nearly 30%... that's throwing money out of the (car-)window
I will test it, and then post the result and make a little how-to, alright?
If you want some dry reading... here is the standard as of last year:
http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs
Open the file BC1.2_FINAL.pdf which is inside "Battery Charging v1.2 Spec and Adopters Agreement"
Go to page 14 which shows how the device (your phone) should detect a "Dedicated Charging Port".
It shows that D+ and D- should be shorted together throught a resistance RDCP_DAT (not connected in a wheatstone bridge arrangement).
On page 45, the value for RDCP_DAT is given to be 200 Ohms.
So, my image is not _quite_ accurate. Short the pins with a 200 Ohm resistor and your phone will recognize your car charger as a dedicated charger and charge in 2-3 hours like it does when connected to your AC wall charger.
As far as surge protection, car electrical systems are notorious for transients and it is always a good idea to unplug sensitive devices when starting the car.
If i believe the manual the car charger should have a protection unit for peak voltages. But you can never know. I will measure the resistor and build it into the car charger. Until then bye bye
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
alright i opened up the car-charger and i can clearly see, that there is the voltage-divider like i mentioned in my first post with exactly 22kOhm each.
Dissoldering is nearly impossible because of the smd technique (it's to small for that) but I think, that i can shorten the two Data pins, because the current/voltage always takes the path of the lowest resistance. I may can cut the data lines, but I won't try it, because it's to small
What do you think... possible?
Can you post a photo of your opened charger (good photo, not a phone cam blurry photo)? It will be easier to suggest options if you do.
I did the following:
The phone recognizes it as AC charger, but it won't load with power, that means, i started charging with 17% and after 2 hours driving on the autobahn (motor-way) the battery level was about 15%... the display was turned on, but normally it should had a positive load.
Next step is to destroy the connection between the resistors... maybe that helps
punkkeks said:
I did the following:
The phone recognizes it as AC charger, but it won't load with power, that means, i started charging with 17% and after 2 hours driving on the autobahn (motor-way) the battery level was about 15%... the display was turned on, but normally it should had a positive load.
Next step is to destroy the connection between the resistors... maybe that helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what you have there is wrong, you would have to cut the connections to the voltage divider in order for that to work
Also, the phone doesn't indicate whether it thinks it's attached to a USB port or a dedicated charger. The only indication is charge rate which can only be determined by watching the battery charge level over time.
Here is an option that eliminates the need for me to modify every charger I encounter to work with my phone...
Parts you'll need:
Remove the data pins on the male USB A connector (you won't be needing them) and drill mounting holes in the PCB:
Process steps:
Finished:
Check your connections for shorts before using this with your phone. This will now make any charger recognizable to the phone as a dedicated charger causing it to draw the same current as from an AC charger. Obviously, do not use this unless the port can output at least an amp of current to be on the safe side.
--- DO NOT CONNECT THIS TO A COMPUTER USB PORT!! ---
Today I gave the adapter the first real test. I plugged my phone into it for a 30 min drive and was able to charge from 25% up to 60% in that short time.
Sorry for bumping such an old thread but there were some doubts earlier in this thread.
I want to confirm everything that Sparkdroid says. He is 100% right.
I also want to add that it seems to work fine with removing the voltage divider and shorting pin 2 and 3. The 200 ohm resistor does not seem to be important for the X10.
My phone draws approx 1.1A when charging. It reports charging from AC source. The current does not rise when starting navigation or other heavy applications so 1.1A seems to be the maximum the X10 can use.
One conclusion is that you would not be helped by spending money at a charger that can give more then 1A. Buy the cheapest one that is able to give 1A and mod it by shorting pins 2 and 3.
Note for those that are not friends with voltage (V) and current (A):
All chargers we are discussing here give 5V. They are able to deliver between 0A up to the maximum rated current. It is the phone that draws as much current as it need for the moment. The only thing you have to think about is to buy a charger that is able to deliver at least as much as the phone need. It will not charge faster even if your charger is able to give 100A. The phone is still limiting it to about 1A.
Frying the phone is only possible if the voltage raise too much above 5V. Any properly designed charger will make sure it stays within safe limits.
Related
Hi all,
Just got my hands on my new Asus Transformer. Just getting to grips with the USB 3.0 charging problems, etc... Sorry for not reading through the other posts in there entirity, in a bit of a rush to go on holidays and need mobile charging!
I need to keep the device alive and charging in the car (kids, angry birds, i'm sure you understand!).
What can I use? I thought my 12v cigar to USB would work as with my old android phone, but it clearly doesnt as it doesnt charge while the device is on.
What are my current options for immediate purchase here in the UK?
Thanks in advance.
Hi
There are no options, at the moment, either here in the UK or elsewhere.....
....except if you make your own charger....cable.....trouble is that two things : first, the 40-pin proprietary plug that connects to the TF/dock; these are not available anywhere yet and secondly that regular 12v USB chargers do not chuch out anywhere near enough juice for the TF
ASUS UK are in the process of getting TF accessories available see here .... but that's it, unless you want to make your own.
Your only option right now is to get a Car power inverter and use the wall charger.
PhoenixFx said:
Your only option right now is to get a Car power inverter and use the wall charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hiya, yeah, already got one of those but am looking for an aternative, have ordered a longer USB 3.0 lead so at least i can do that...
Thanks
kevpuk said:
Hi
There are no options, at the moment, either here in the UK or elsewhere.....
....except if you make your own charger....cable.....trouble is that two things : first, the 40-pin proprietary plug that connects to the TF/dock; these are not available anywhere yet and secondly that regular 12v USB chargers do not chuch out anywhere near enough juice for the TF
ASUS UK are in the process of getting TF accessories available see here .... but that's it, unless you want to make your own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd definately have a go at making my own, if only I could get the connectors! As for the 12v USB adaptors, im sure I could make some mods to get enough power! ;-)
gavin watson said:
I'd definately have a go at making my own, if only I could get the connectors! As for the 12v USB adaptors, im sure I could make some mods to get enough power! ;-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
check out this post of mine in the "short cable" thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=16320775#post16320775
you can do it for about £27 with generally-available parts.
goes without saying i hope ---- triple-check polarities/ voltages etc. before plugging anything in!
poster bob smith42 has posted some useful guides.
theabsurdman said:
check out this post of mine in the "short cable" thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=16320775#post16320775
you can do it for about £27 with generally-available parts.
goes without saying i hope ---- triple-check polarities/ voltages etc. before plugging anything in!
poster bob smith42 has posted some useful guides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To sum up that post, all you need is any car charger that puts out close to 15v at 2amps or more. Then you put a regular USB female port on the end of it (either through an adapter or by wiring it up directly). Then you use the standard ASUS cable to connect it to your tablet.
rtadams89 said:
To sum up that post, all you need is any car charger that puts out close to 15v at 2amps or more. Then you put a regular USB female port on the end of it (either through an adapter or by wiring it up directly). Then you use the standard ASUS cable to connect it to your tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most car's electrical systems are at 14-14.5V when the car is running. I've seen posts that say the TF will start charging at 11V, so even with the car off, there should be enough voltage to charge directly from the car's electrical system. Obviously a fuse is recommended, and voltage regulation would be nice, but shouldn't be necessary.
I haven't had the need to charge my TF in the car yet, but I plan to put a usb 3.0 socket in my car, and use a switch, or watch pin 7 for ground(or whichever it was, will double-check obviously), to toggle between a 5V supply and the car's 12V system.
Hi, thanks for the info. Do we know the pinout for the female USB socket? Thanks.
gavin watson said:
Hi, thanks for the info. Do we know the pinout for the female USB socket? Thanks.
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You'll be connecting ground to pin 4 and +11-15V to pin 1. Do not use with normal USB devices, it will supply the 11-15V to the same pin that normal USB uses for +5V, so it's a fairly certain instant-fry. Change pin 1 to 5V for normal devices. To switch between 5V and ~15V, I plan on using the same method the wall charger uses, watching for ground on pin 7(pin number needs verification). If you switch it manually, or don't switch at all, you can use a standard USB 2.0 socket instead of the 3.0(The pic is 2.0, 3.0 has 5 extra pins behind the first 4, there will be fewer pins to get in your way when soldering).
If you buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inve..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1312550809&sr=1-1
Then just plug the Asus charging power block into that. This looks like the easiest solution right now.
You don't need a 175 watt one, that's just the first one i saw on amazon. The power block has a max of 2A rating with 15v so that is only 30 watts(v * a = w).
chatch15117 said:
If you buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inve..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1312550809&sr=1-1
Then just plug the Asus charging power block into that. This looks like the easiest solution right now.
You don't need a 175 watt one, that's just the first one i saw on amazon. The power block has a max of 2A rating with 15v so that is only 30 watts(v * a = w).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice. Lots of 110v 75 watt items on ebay, too.
75W 12V DC To 110V/220V Power Inverter Car Adapter USB
Car AC Power Inverter 150W Pop-can 12V To 120V w/USBH42 (This one looks pretty cool in my opinion)
I have no idea if these will work with TF101. Has anyone tried yet?
It should work.
I used to have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-CPI-150-Micro-150-Inverter/dp/B000F6NULK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Small enough to carry around + airplane adapter.
An inverter is a good solution for charger the TF without much fuss. If someone wants to wire something directly to the cig lighter, be sure to unplug your TF when starting the car to avoid voltage spikes.
zepheris.hk said:
An inverter is a good solution for charger the TF without much fuss. If someone wants to wire something directly to the cig lighter, be sure to unplug your TF when starting the car to avoid voltage spikes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Find one with high and low voltage protection and you don't have to worry about spikes.
tengtengvn said:
Find one with high and low voltage protection and you don't have to worry about spikes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He said that in regard to directly wiring to the car's electrical system, not an inverter. Are you suggesting he buy a car with over/under voltage protection?
P.S. @ zepheris.hk
Since the TF expects 15V(and the internal regulator should be able to handle up to 37v for a couple seconds), I doubt you need to worry about spikes from a direct connection to the car's system. Besides, I've never seen a car that spikes when starting. You'd notice all the lights get brighter, instead of dimming as they normally do(from the voltage sag induced by the starter's amp draw). That isn't to say that there can't be other spikes if something is wrong with your electrical system though. I recommend a resistor to limit amperage at the very least, if you're brave, the internal regulator should be able to handle any over/reverse voltage(within reason) as long as there's current limiting.
Bob Smith42 said:
Nice. Lots of 110v 75 watt items on ebay, too.
75W 12V DC To 110V/220V Power Inverter Car Adapter USB
Car AC Power Inverter 150W Pop-can 12V To 120V w/USBH42 (This one looks pretty cool in my opinion)
I have no idea if these will work with TF101. Has anyone tried yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
110v inverters are all the same, basically, so as long as it meets your wattage requirements(30W) it will work. I suggest 90-100W though so you can charge a laptop also, if needed. Most laptops are 60-100W.
My experience so far...
Yesterday on a long journey I used a 175w 12vdc - 230vac inverter with the original mains adaptor that comes with the TF. Can't link to the inverter, I bought it a while ago from Maplin (UK) and hadnt used it.
All worked fine.
The TF AC adaptor got a bit warm, slightly more than usual, but nothing to get worried about. The charging went fine, I couldnt use it permanently connected and in use because of the stupid length of the cable and my 3.0 USB extension hadnt arrived before we set off.
I've just bought another 3.0 USB cable and a cigar lighter plug and will attempt to connect it up by using the (approx.) 13.8vdc directly from the cigar outlet in my car. I can't see why that wont work?
I might just wait until the warrantly company confirm my TF is on their database before I attempt this, but will post back soon.
Thansk for all the tips and info guys.
gavin watson said:
My experience so far...
Yesterday on a long journey I used a 175w 12vdc - 230vac inverter with the original mains adaptor that comes with the TF. Can't link to the inverter, I bought it a while ago from Maplin (UK) and hadnt used it.
All worked fine.
The TF AC adaptor got a bit warm, slightly more than usual, but nothing to get worried about. The charging went fine, I couldnt use it permanently connected and in use because of the stupid length of the cable and my 3.0 USB extension hadnt arrived before we set off.
I've just bought another 3.0 USB cable and a cigar lighter plug and will attempt to connect it up by using the (approx.) 13.8vdc directly from the cigar outlet in my car. I can't see why that wont work?
I might just wait until the warrantly company confirm my TF is on their database before I attempt this, but will post back soon.
Thansk for all the tips and info guys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like I said, the cigar outlet should work fine, but you don't need a 3.0 cable, you can just use a 2.0 to simplify the wiring, and using a 3.0 cable won't protect other devices from overvoltage anyways.
I recommend a 7.5 Ohm resistor to limit the amperage to 2 amps: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=TR50JBD7R50-ND
This one is a 50W, so it should be able to handle 2 amps without heatsinking.
Long term, I'd suggest adding a decoupling capacitor to get rid of some of the noise from the car's electrical system, something like:http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P12389-ND.
For just one trip though, you should be fine without any added protection. I would suggest the resistor though, as the outlet will give it up to about 10 amps, and I don't know if the internal regulator in the TF is limited by itself, or by the charger(which only puts out 2 amps). If you don't use a resistor, watch the battery/case temperature like a hawk, especially when the battery is being charged from a very low level(0-25%), this is the highest draw portion of the charging cycle, and consequently, the hottest.
Transformer needs 1.5A output cigarette lighter. If you can find one, you're golden.
I bought a Griffin Powerjolt Dual Micro adapter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042B9U8Q/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details). It supposedly can do 1A on each port. I modded it as the commenters on Amazon suggested (open up, solder the middle pins on each side together so that it's recognized as an AC charger rather than USB).
Both my Flyer (Leedroid HC rom) and Evo 4G see it correctly as an AC charger. However, monitoring the current via Elixir says it's not getting near 1A. For example, the flyer was showing somewhere between -500ma and -700ma while unplugged (GPS on, wifi tethering). When I plugged it into this charger, it was showing around -50ma. So it's getting only around 600ma of juice, not 1000ma.
Testing my Evo on the charger showed the same.
Using an actual HTC AC charger (old one, from my TouchPro2 days, but rated for 5V 1A) both devices indicate they're getting somewhere around 900ma, much more like I'd expect.
So is this charger just crap? Or is that normal for a car 1A charger? I'm debating getting something else - ideally one of the chargers that claims to have both a 2.1A port and a 1A port, since I want to run both the flyer and evo (for tethering) in the car. Got suggestions on any that are good? Small would be best since a big charger blocks my cupholder
You'll be best off getting a small 12 /120 inverter. The magic is in the HTC charging cord connector not the power supply. Just use the inverter with the HTC wall wart. It produces 9v at 1.2 A. Since the Flyer has two batteries, it really needs more than 5v
That just seems like such a ridiculous way to do it - 12V in car, converted to 120v AC, then BACK to DC at 9V...
I tried another USB adapter that I had lying around, a really really cheapo one that claimed to be 1A. Well, my phone shows it's getting around 900ma from it. So not too bad, and certainly better than the name brand that I modified. So looks like I'm back to the hunt... either a dual-usb 1A each adapter, or better yet, a 2.1A/1A dual adapter that can actually output that much.
But still, even the modded one isn't too bad. at only 50ma net drain, that flyer battery would last longer in the car than I will
DigitalMD said:
You'll be best off getting a small 12 /120 inverter. The magic is in the HTC charging cord connector not the power supply. Just use the inverter with the HTC wall wart. It produces 9v at 1.2 A. Since the Flyer has two batteries, it really needs more than 5v
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is easier way. Griffin 2A car charger has chip inside, it can give up to 20 or 30V and 3A! Voltage is regulated by changing only one resistor. I have datasheet somewhwere, but you can google. Datasheet will explain what resistor and wat value is needed for 9V.
So changing resistor should be enough, but I am not shure 100% because I do not know if Flyers original charger uses specific pins or the same usb pins for charging
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
Well, you don't really want to change voltage I don't think. I know the official charger does 9V over the same pins as the usual microUSB 5 pins, but I don't know for sure if the flyer has to do anything special to know 9V is coming. Or if the pinout is different.
So for now, I'm planning to just get an ipad-type 2A 5V charger, mod it (since the ipad doesn't use standard methods of knowing the charger can do more than 500ma), and see how that works.
I'm not terribly concerned about CHARGING the flyer in teh car. I just don't want to lose too much battery while on a long drive. So even a true 1A charger would be fine - that's more than the flyer draws. I just thikn the charger I got isn't actually doing what it says.
timropp said:
Well, you don't really want to change voltage I don't think. I know the official charger does 9V over the same pins as the usual microUSB 5 pins, but I don't know for sure if the flyer has to do anything special to know 9V is coming. Or if the pinout is different.
So for now, I'm planning to just get an ipad-type 2A 5V charger, mod it (since the ipad doesn't use standard methods of knowing the charger can do more than 500ma), and see how that works.
I'm not terribly concerned about CHARGING the flyer in teh car. I just don't want to lose too much battery while on a long drive. So even a true 1A charger would be fine - that's more than the flyer draws. I just thikn the charger I got isn't actually doing what it says.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are not right. It gives up to 3A, but voltage is too low for Flyer. To charge properly Flyer needs 9V voltage and up to 1.2A. If voltage will be only 5v - you never will never get 1A with flyer. Tested various 1 or 2A chargers (even genuine Iphone) with data pins connected. And i also said that griffin circuitry is capable of giving more than 1A. HTC HD2, draws its maximum ~800mA from griffin, so you theory would say that Flyer can draw more than 500mA too but it doesn't so it is due to voltage or special pins.
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
The flyer does not NEED 9V - it's just faster. Heck, the thing came w/ a USB cable which is only 5V and it will charge, just not as fast.
I've got some REALLY cheap USB car chargers (look like this http://www.aliexpress.com/product-f...obile-Cell-Phone-White-Color-wholesalers.html and I got them for like a buck a piece). Sticker says it'll do 1A. On both my Evo and my Flyer, I get around 900-950ma out of it. So yes, the flyer can indeed draw 1A from a charger that can do it.
I think the charger I've got (the one in the original post) is just crappy. I ordered another model (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056VNVV8) which claims to have a 2A port and a 1A port. I'll try it out, don't expect it to actually do that stock since the ipad is the main device that uses 2A and uses proprietary methods to signal that. Then I'll open it up and short the data pins and see what I get. HOPEFULLY I can pull enough juice from it to keep both the flyer and evo happy.
timropp said:
The flyer does not NEED 9V - it's just faster. Heck, the thing came w/ a USB cable which is only 5V and it will charge, just not as fast.
I've got some REALLY cheap USB car chargers (look like this http://www.aliexpress.com/product-f...obile-Cell-Phone-White-Color-wholesalers.html and I got them for like a buck a piece). Sticker says it'll do 1A. On both my Evo and my Flyer, I get around 900-950ma out of it. So yes, the flyer can indeed draw 1A from a charger that can do it.
I think the charger I've got (the one in the original post) is just crappy. I ordered another model (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056VNVV8) which claims to have a 2A port and a 1A port. I'll try it out, don't expect it to actually do that stock since the ipad is the main device that uses 2A and uses proprietary methods to signal that. Then I'll open it up and short the data pins and see what I get. HOPEFULLY I can pull enough juice from it to keep both the flyer and evo happy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, Flyer does not need 9v, but only when charged from usb port. In USB case Flyer identifies power source as usb and do not try to get more than than 500mA. By shortening data pins we make Flyer identify power source as AC, so it thinks that it draws power from charger ( it expects 9V 1.62A) so charging from 5V 2A doesn't work as from 9V source. I have already tried Samsung 2A charger, Griffin car charger 2A, iPhone 1A charger.... (With data pins shortened) Flyer identifies them as AC source but current do not rise more than 500mA and only when power/screen off. When on - I think charging do not work because Battery Monitor Pro shows opposite current flow (discharge).
So:
a) Your charger is not crappy...
b) 5v*2A=10W is less than 9V*1.62A=14.58W
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
Not sure why you had no luck w/ all those chargers. I've used both the flyer and my evo 4g to test, monitored w/ elixir (showing the ma flow either direction, use or charging), and several adapters both AC and car.
My flyer absolutely could draw 900ma or more out of the cheapo car charger at 5V. That's plenty to keep it charged and even add some charge slowly (about 300ma gain) while using GPS, full bright screen, and tethered over wifi to my phone.
The problem is that is a single USB charger, and my car only has 1 cig lighter port. So I'm looking for a dual-USB charger. I'll post the results of the new one that's on the way.
i used a Griffin USB charger in my car for a while, and it didn't do a bad job. I think it was rated as 2.1 amps. I had to try several USB-to-microUSB cords to find one that was wired for charging, and not just data transfer/trickle charge.
Finally, I gave in and bought the proprietary HTC car-charger from Sprint, and it works great! If I turn on everything I can (mobile data, wifi, gps, screen brightness, nav app, etc) it will keep my EVO View running great and charge the tablet in fairly short order.
Ok, update. Got my Bracketron adapter last night. Looks like this:
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First I tried my HTC Evo 4G phone. From the 1A port, it pulled a great 1A charge. From the 2.1A, it shows usb charging and only 500ma. That was as I expected, since the only device most people know of that uses 2A is ipad and it uses stupid proprietary methods to detect the charger's abilities.
Next I hooked the flyer up. No surprise, it showed the same result from the 2A port. But from the 1A, it said AC charge, but only drew 500ma. So that's the same thing linuxis saw, that the flyer would only pull half amp. Not sure how/why it gets 900 from my other charger...
I also opened up this charger. Looks well built inside. However, I can't solder the data pins on the 2A jack cause there's not room. A long, thin soldering iron could do it, but I've only got a normal tip. So I think I'll try hacking up a usb cable and try that, see if I can pull more juice from this thing. Otherwise, I'll stick to my ultra-cheapo adapter and get a 2 port 12v adapter (you know, turns one lighter socket into 2) to run two chargers that way.
Hate to see you torture yourself over this.
$10,
120v @ 100w + 5v @ 500 ma. from one 12v socket
Attached wall wart and USB cable
Charge and power Flyer /View + cell phone and add in a laptop if you want.
Problem solved.
Ah, this isn't torture. this is playing around with something. Yep, there's a simple solution, but it's ugly and crude and wouldn't fit my car very well (stupid car has the socket right under the cupholders, so using that would mean I couldn't open the cupholders at all, so I'd need a 12v extension to put the inverter on the floor).
So I'm playing around with finding a better solution... and sharing my findings so others can learn from my lessons
OK, that's good. I thought you were in imminent need of a solution.
Onward and upward.
Im sorry but when will the auto industry wakeup and provide a better accessory power port? Do we really need that clumsy, pita, half ass, eyesore in our cars? How about a multi pin port where the cable jumps pins to get 12, 9, 5 and 3 volts.? How about auto sensing like some generic laptop chargers? Come on Europe, you did ok with mico usb ports on phones can you go after the auto industry now. I would gladly pay $100 to have a multivoltage port in the dash and the trunk/back. I know some cars had an inverter option built in as an option.
I wonder if there is a dev could come to the rescue. I remember some rom developers making their roms charge faster and also making them charge to 100%.
Anyone know where I can find the special plug that HTC used for the charger? I already have a few 9volt chargers collecting dust, would be nice to make one work for the cost of a plug?
Keep dreaming the auto makers are never going to provide anything like that. That's why smart phone makers standardize to 5v 500ma. Except for those that don't, like HTC...LOL
Tablets are more power hungry. HTC choose to use 2 x 3.6v batteries rather than on big ass battery, probably because they had them laying around and because it's cheaper and easier to run batteries in series and do 9v @ 1.2A than to do 5v at 2A . Therefore the need for 9v for fast charging.
As far as the HTC connector its only available from HTC and I don't think they sell them to anyone.
timropp said:
Ok, update. Got my Bracketron adapter last night. Looks like this:
...................
Next I hooked the flyer up. No surprise, it showed the same result from the 2A port. But from the 1A, it said AC charge, but only drew 500ma. So that's the same thing linuxis saw, that the flyer would only pull half amp. Not sure how/why it gets 900 from my other charger...
I also opened up this charger. Looks well built inside. However, I can't solder the data pins on the 2A jack cause there's not room. A long, thin soldering iron could do it, but I've only got a normal tip. So I think I'll try hacking up a usb cable and try that, see if I can pull more juice from this thing. Otherwise, I'll stick to my ultra-cheapo adapter and get a 2 port 12v adapter (you know, turns one lighter socket into 2) to run two chargers that way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If Flyer said that it see AC - cable hacking will not help.
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
DigitalMD said:
Keep dreaming the auto makers are never going to provide anything like that. That's why smart phone makers standardize to 5v 500ma. Except for those that don't, like HTC...LOL
Tablets are more power hungry. HTC choose to use 2 x 3.6v batteries rather than on big ass battery, probably because they had them laying around and because it's cheaper and easier to run batteries in series and do 9v @ 1.2A than to do 5v at 2A . Therefore the need for 9v for fast charging.
As far as the HTC connector its only available from HTC and I don't think they sell them to anyone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can buy it. I saw it somewhere on internet.
Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk
Ok, is there anything in software that affects charging? There's gotta be something at some level, since for example it won't charge while going thru some of the rooting/flashing stuff.
I ask because I retried my cheapo charger and now get just 500ma from it even though it's recognized as AC charger. I KNOW that a week ago it was giving me 800-900ma. But I've also flashed my flyer a dozen times in between, and I have no idea what I was running when I did that earlier test.
timropp said:
However, monitoring the current via Elixir says it's not getting near 1A. For example, the flyer was showing somewhere between -500ma and -700ma while unplugged (GPS on, wifi tethering). When I plugged it into this charger, it was showing around -50ma. So it's getting only around 600ma of juice, not 1000ma.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where exactly do you find this in elixir?
Is there a difference between a charging cord for the EVO and a standard USB data cable for our phones? I thought I remember reading a thread about the charging cable being different so charging faster.
The reason I ask is I need a 15ft USB charging cable for my EVO.
It's all based on the power drawing from the source. I don't think the cable makes a difference.
As a general rule, USB charges slower than AC.
I can tell that there is a difference!
I used normal USB cable from my other mobilephone (xperia x8, and Nokia 5230) and my HTC Evo 3D didnt recharging, he was showing that he is recharging but no... recharg was so slow that he wasnt able to recharg battery. After couple of hours from 20% it went to 18% of battery
Akasa Fox said:
It's all based on the power drawing from the source. I don't think the cable makes a difference.
As a general rule, USB charges slower than AC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand that trying to charge off the computer will be slower. But what I was asking is the cord which you plug in to the USB wall adapter (that comes with the phone) different from your average micro-usb cord. Because at the end of the day, the cord we get from the factory to charge is a micro-usb cord.
But I think I read somewhere that there is a difference in the pins or something that identify as a charging cable instead of a data cable allowing more power to pass through.
Not sure but my knowledge tells me that when u plug USB cable to poweradapter it just becomes regular charger and phone knows this by higher voltage coming to it...while USB plugged in to laptop or computer less voltage tells the phone and as well as the drivers from computer tells phone that's its USB cable link! Essentially cable is same but the.power adapter in front just converts USB to 2-pin regular power source!
Sent in 3D
Boss2212 said:
Not sure but my knowledge tells me that when u plug USB cable to poweradapter it just becomes regular charger and phone knows this by higher voltage coming to it...while USB plugged in to laptop or computer less voltage tells the phone and as well as the drivers from computer tells phone that's its USB cable link! Essentially cable is same but the.power adapter in front just converts USB to 2-pin regular power source!
Sent in 3D
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did an experiment with my charger. I used the stock HTC charger that came with the phone. Plugged in my HTC provided cable, went to battery status, and it said "Charging (AC)".
I then tried another micro-USB cord I had laying around and again it said "Charging (AC)".
So my guess is the cord doesn't matter. What I'd like to see is if there is a difference in power that the cord is allowing to be pulled between the two. Anyone know an app for this?
Next I went and took the Griffin charger I bought for my iPad2. It is rated up to 2.1amps for output so it should be sufficient enough to charge our phones just like the stock charger. When I plugged it in using the stock HTC cable and the standard Micro-USB cable, both read: "Charging (USB)". Again, I wonder if there is a difference in power being drawn because it thinks it is USB.
The cord probably doesn't matter as long as it's a decent cord. I'm sure there's some POS cords that are not going to deliver much at all, but any USB cable I've bought from monoprice has charged just fine, and has done its full output either via a usb port or if I plug that cable into a usb->AC adapter.
RedWingsFan said:
What I'd like to see is if there is a difference in power that the cord is allowing to be pulled between the two. Anyone know an app for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Elixer 2! Grab it from the market, select 'status bar' and set it up with battery current, which will then allow you to see your current drain (or charge) rate by pulling down your menu!
(lots of other great things in elixer! I urge everyone to check it out! It's totally replaced extended controls for me! Probably the best utility in android since TB!)
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Sent from my HTC EVO 3D GSM using Tapatalk
The phone sets the charging rate based on if the data lines of the USB cable are active. If they are active, the charging rate is limited to the standard 500mA USB supply. If open, the phone goes into AC mode which allows up to 2A (2000mA) charging rate depending on the power supply.
I'm not entirely sure if MicroUSB is different than some of the other standards out there. But there are indeed some usb cables that are ''Data'' cables and do not charge. I have an old flip phone for my son and his usb data cable connects to the pc fine, we can transfer music to his microsd card etc. However it does not charge his phone at all.
I've used a couple of different cables and here's what I've noticed...
Some cables won't charge, but can be used for data.
Some will charge, but can't be used for data.
Some can charge, and be used for data.
I know that some that charge, but can't transmit data have the data wires missing for cheaper production. And this could be the same thing for those that can be used for data, but not charge.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA Premium App
Can also change data cables into AC charging cables only, so that they will charge at 1000mA from a USB port and not 500 mA as normal. Means you can't use the cable as a data cable, but in a car charger that's not a problem, and often you want a quick charge from a USB port.
Basically the two data pins have to be shorted together--google it.
EDIT: See here-- http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml -- basically the white and green wires need to be shorted together. I have done this and my phone now says Charging (AC) when using car charger or USB from PC.
basically you can have three types of usb port/cable as per 2007 Battery Charging Specification - regular data cable ("old" usb standard) that cand provide up to 100mA without negotiating with the hub, 500mA after negotiating; charging downstream ports that can provide up to 900mA plus data without needing to negotiate; dedicated charging ports that can provide up to 1.5a without data (Ive seen 2a chargers so I suppose this is covered too, in the official standard I cant find it)
Ir does matter. The original usb cable must have some extra or different pins, because when I use a generic one I'm not able to adb to the phone from the PC, I'm only able to adb with the original usb cable. Charging is fine.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
sniperkiki said:
I can tell that there is a difference!
I used normal USB cable from my other mobilephone (xperia x8, and Nokia 5230) and my HTC Evo 3D didnt recharging, he was showing that he is recharging but no... recharg was so slow that he wasnt able to recharg battery. After couple of hours from 20% it went to 18% of battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ya dude i completly agree with u ...my htc wildfire s was also not charging if i used a normal data cabel instead of htc usb cable
It looks like just shorting D+ to D- on a USB car charger is not always enough to get the note to charge at 1A. It seems like the voltage on D+/D- has to be in the right range also.
I needed more than 500mA charging current in the car for the Note and its big screen (with GPS going also). I knew that I needed to short the D+ and D- pins of the USB charger or cord to let me pull more than 500mA off a 1A+ car charger. I chose to modify the chargers so I could use any standard cable for charging. I did this to two chargers.
1. Belkin Dual USB Car Charger http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dual-USB-Car-Charger/dp/B001ILBNGA
2. Griffin PowerJolt Dual Micro Universal Charger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Griffin-P...40656&sourceid=1500000000000003142050&veh=cse
I modified the Belkin first. I used an Ohm meter to confirm I was shorting D+ and D- on the “fast charge” port. Once I put it back together, I confirmed I had 5V across the outer pins and the inner pins were tied together. When I plugged my Note into it using a standard cable, I got a MTP message and the USB symbol appeared in the top left corner. It thought I was connecting to a computer. Removing the cable sent the Note into a media scan.
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So I took it apart and double checked. I noticed that the shorted data pins on the high current USB port were about 2.5V and the low current USB port data pins were about 2.0V. I also noticed that the 5V pins for both ports were connected together on the PCB (meaning they are fed off the same 5V regulator). I then shorted the data pins together on the low current port and it worked with that port! The Current Widget showed about 1A and no MTP message. This pointed to the data pins needing a specific voltage (or range of voltage) to make the note charge at 1A (2.5V on the data pins didn't work, but 2V did).
Next I moved onto the Griffin PowerJolt dual charger. This is my favorite car charger as it is very low profile. I did the mod to one of the ports and got the same MTP message (along with only 500mA charging). I noticed the data pins were at 2.5V and that two resistors making up a voltage divider for the data pins were right there. I changed the divider ratio (adding a 50K Ohm resistor in parallel with the resistor that went to ground). I re-measured and saw 1.94V on the data pins (very close to the 2V on the working Belkin port). I plugged her in and sure enough it worked (AC charging and about 1A).
Depending on your charger, it seems as though simply shorting D+ to D- may not be enough to get full current. The data pins have to have the correct voltage on them. Around 2V works although it may be a wide range of voltages (maybe 0V up to 2V?).
Later I went back and modified the high current Belkin port so its data pins were about 2V. That port then worked well too.
Check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LZt4pW97P8
mtucker said:
It looks like just shorting D+ to D- on a USB car charger is not always enough to get the note to charge at 1A. It seems like the voltage on D+/D- has to be in the right range also.
I needed more than 500mA charging current in the car for the Note and its big screen (with GPS going also). I knew that I needed to short the D+ and D- pins of the USB charger or cord to let me pull more than 500mA off a 1A+ car charger. I chose to modify the chargers so I could use any standard cable for charging. I did this to two chargers.
1. Belkin Dual USB Car Charger http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dual-USB-Car-Charger/dp/B001ILBNGA
2. Griffin PowerJolt Dual Micro Universal Charger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Griffin-P...40656&sourceid=1500000000000003142050&veh=cse
I modified the Belkin first. I used an Ohm meter to confirm I was shorting D+ and D- on the “fast charge” port. Once I put it back together, I confirmed I had 5V across the outer pins and the inner pins were tied together. When I plugged my Note into it using a standard cable, I got a MTP message and the USB symbol appeared in the top left corner. It thought I was connecting to a computer. Removing the cable sent the Note into a media scan.
So I took it apart and double checked. I noticed that the shorted data pins on the high current USB port were about 2.5V and the low current USB port data pins were about 2.0V. I also noticed that the 5V pins for both ports were connected together on the PCB (meaning they are fed off the same 5V regulator). I then shorted the data pins together on the low current port and it worked with that port! The Current Widget showed about 1A and no MTP message. This pointed to the data pins needing a specific voltage (or range of voltage) to make the note charge at 1A (2.5V on the data pins didn't work, but 2V did).
Next I moved onto the Griffin PowerJolt dual charger. This is my favorite car charger as it is very low profile. I did the mod to one of the ports and got the same MTP message (along with only 500mA charging). I noticed the data pins were at 2.5V and that two resistors making up a voltage divider for the data pins were right there. I changed the divider ratio (adding a 50K Ohm resistor in parallel with the resistor that went to ground). I re-measured and saw 1.94V on the data pins (very close to the 2V on the working Belkin port). I plugged her in and sure enough it worked (AC charging and about 1A).
Depending on your charger, it seems as though simply shorting D+ to D- may not be enough to get full current. The data pins have to have the correct voltage on them. Around 2V works although it may be a wide range of voltages (maybe 0V up to 2V?).
Later I went back and modified the high current Belkin port so its data pins were about 2V. That port then worked well too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was informative, my phone discharges as well, when I have gps nav on, along with music and bluetooth connected to my car, yes a lot of things, but I want to use only one device for everything anyway, what widget are you using to check the amperage?
i_max2k2 said:
This was informative, my phone discharges as well, when I have gps nav on, along with music and bluetooth connected to my car, yes a lot of things, but I want to use only one device for everything anyway, what widget are you using to check the amperage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Current Widget https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget&feature=search_result For Samsung phones, it will display the current *10 until you dig into the menu and use the divide option to tell it to divide by 10.
My GSII would just barely charge with 500mA (screen and GPS on) so I wasn't surprised that the Note can't keep up with 500mA.
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Phoneguy589 said:
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This makes sense as a lithium ion charging circuit should charge quickly to 80 percent and trickle thereafter. Remember that the chargers ability to supply a large amount of current does not mean the phone will consume it; the charging circuit will only draw what it was designed to draw.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using XDA
Right. The charging process goes from constant current mode to constant voltage mode (voltage stops near 4.2V and the current drops to keep the voltage the same) somewhere around 80-90% of full charge.
Nice discussion here. I followed the Youtube link in the second discussion and created a short USB cable with the short. Works perfectly.
I bought the Griffin PowerJolt because of its size as well, however, I think mine is a fake one because the internals look very flimsy and cheapy put together.
Anyways, I can't return it since I already modded it...
I somehow managed it to pull .7 amps using a modded data cable (only if I let the spring contact that touches the inside perimeter of the lighter port touch the metal housing of the USB socket, .5 amps if not touching) but that's all I can do. Voltage is the same between the wall stock wall charger vs car charger @ ~4V.
Is there anything else I can do?
Isn't the charger that came with the Samsung official Galaxy Note Car Dock gives out 1A already?
I saw the Car charger output is 1A and the pin should be shorted already, since there is no "sync" capability.
hyukki said:
I bought the Griffin PowerJolt because of its size as well, however, I think mine is a fake one because the internals look very flimsy and cheapy put together............
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some people on Amazon thought they were getting fakes because the Griffin logo looked very light and the packaging was totally generic. Here is a link to a picture someone posted on Amazon showing the insides of the Powerjolt (a authentic version). This is how mine looked too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/moAZAR6I9DW65J/B0042B9U8Q/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link
mtucker said:
Some people on Amazon thought they were getting fakes because the Griffin logo looked very light and the packaging was totally generic. Here is a link to a picture someone posted on Amazon showing the insides of the Powerjolt (a authentic version). This is how mine looked too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/moAZAR6I9DW65J/B0042B9U8Q/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the inductor in mine is very flimsy and does not have the black cover around it. It literally is being held in place by the two leads of the wire coiled around the ring. I'll probably end up ordering a different plug. Or invest 11 dollars for the one that comes with the iPod cable. Although I'm not really complaining with .7 amps, since at least it doesn't let the battery drain as fast.
Phoneguy589 said:
Shorting the green and white wires (towards the phone) bumped my ma's from mid 4k to about 8-9k. I think the voltage state of the battery affects the charging rate as well. Under 70% I'm in the 9K ma range but above 90% I get around 7K ma's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean 4000 to 9000 ma or 4A - 10A over usb? (this seems a little high for usb most chargers are 500 ma (0.5A) to 2A)
I think it is probably more like 400-1000ma (0.4 to 1A) [which sounds more reasonable for usb]
Just purchased a Duracell dual mini USB car charger from Walgreens.
The sticker on it says it Has an output of DC 4.75-5.25v 2000 mA
Well it work for our att notes..our should I return it?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
I doubt it. It is probably configured to only signal an iPad that it is capable of charging at 2A. You'll probably get 500 mA out of it, maybe 1000 mA if you're lucky or if you have a charging cable.
I bought a second one as well, it says it puts out 2.1.... It is a dual charger.. 1 slot reads 1.0 and the other is a 2.1. It there a way to test the output?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
There are various widgets and utilities you can download from the Play store that will report the charging current. This is the dual USB charger I have, from Bracketron. I suspect a lot of these devices are identical inside, just with different branding on the outside:
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}
Nope, these are all for Apple products. They will charge at 500 Ma (USB load) only unless you have a charging cable with the two center pins shorted. Apple has distorted the market by not following USB standard design protocol. Since most Apple products do not have data transfer capability via USB, they use full amperage charging and in fact, overload a standard USB port that is designed to give only 500 ma. USB standard is that the power is supplied by the two outside pins and data via the two inside pins.If the two inside pins are not shorted (soldered together), the device thinks it is connected to a standard USB port and limits itself to only 500 ma. If the pins are shorted, it will see it as 120V feed and take all the power the charger will provide. It is normal for charging rate to vary, with temperature mostly. The internal circutry of the Note will limit it to 1100 Ma. I have seen it at 1125 for short bursts on a 1 amp charger, normally, it is 725 down to 575, even will shorted pins, as the phone gets too warm to effectively charge the battery at full rates for some time.
I have tested nearly all of the chargers available and am deeply disappointed at the car chargers low rate of charge. The best one is from Best Buy, high power micro USB. The Motorola one talked about a lot here is OK, but it falls off charging rates pretty quickly. I have a glove box full of chargers I have tested and the only one I use is the BB one. Samsung chargers are limited to 700 ma only, no matter what the device says on it. The Boxwave 1 amp charger is only 500 ma on Samsung devices. The adjustable one from Spigen, with the slide switch between Apple and Samsung delivers only 650 Ma on the Samsung settings.
The generic chargers on the web or big box stores usually only put out 500 ma. The Note, when streaming music in the car via bluetooth, and using GPS pulls more than 750 Ma, so if you want to charge it, you need to get a the most powerful charger you can find.
I use the battery monitor widget from Play Store, but you have to change settings, it will not auto discover the 2500 amp hour note battery, it sees it at 1500, which screws up the charging rate feed. You must manually set the battery to 2500 amp hours under calibration settings, as well as as set the charger output power, otherwise the data you get is worthless. I suspect many folks do not realize this and are posting erroneous data, due to lack of calibration for the big battery in the Note.
ms0529 said:
Nope, these are all for Apple products. They will charge at 500 Ma (USB load) only unless you have a charging cable with the two center pins shorted. Apple has distorted the market by not following USB standard design protocol. Since most Apple products do not have data transfer capability via USB, they use full amperage charging and in fact, overload a standard USB port that is designed to give only 500 ma. USB standard is that the power is supplied by the two outside pins and data via the two inside pins.If the two inside pins are not shorted (soldered together), the device thinks it is connected to a standard USB port and limits itself to only 500 ma. If the pins are shorted, it will see it as 120V feed and take all the power the charger will provide. It is normal for charging rate to vary, with temperature mostly. The internal circutry of the Note will limit it to 1100 Ma. I have seen it at 1125 for short bursts on a 1 amp charger, normally, it is 725 down to 575, even will shorted pins, as the phone gets too warm to effectively charge the battery at full rates for some time.
I have tested nearly all of the chargers available and am deeply disappointed at the car chargers low rate of charge. The best one is from Best Buy, high power micro USB. The Motorola one talked about a lot here is OK, but it falls off charging rates pretty quickly. I have a glove box full of chargers I have tested and the only one I use is the BB one. Samsung chargers are limited to 700 ma only, no matter what the device says on it. The Boxwave 1 amp charger is only 500 ma on Samsung devices. The adjustable one from Spigen, with the slide switch between Apple and Samsung delivers only 650 Ma on the Samsung settings.
The generic chargers on the web or big box stores usually only put out 500 ma. The Note, when streaming music in the car via bluetooth, and using GPS pulls more than 750 Ma, so if you want to charge it, you need to get a the most powerful charger you can find.
I use the battery monitor widget from Play Store, but you have to change settings, it will not auto discover the 2500 amp hour note battery, it sees it at 1500, which screws up the charging rate feed. You must manually set the battery to 2500 amp hours under calibration settings, as well as as set the charger output power, otherwise the data you get is worthless. I suspect many folks do not realize this and are posting erroneous data, due to lack of calibration for the big battery in the Note.
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Got a model number on that charger? Or even a pic? The one from BB that is..... Is it the Rocket fish "premium" micro usb charger that's all in one?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
Rocketfish™ - Premium Micro USB Vehicle Charger
Model: RF-PMC55 SKU: 1114106
Yes, it is the Premium Micro USB charger. If you use the USB port for a second charger, it will drop the main charge in half however.
As I mentioned, I have tested at least 10 different chargers, and this one seems to be the most robust charger. Most of the others drop off, as they use very narrow gauge wires and they heat up. The onboard circuitry of the charger and Note drop off when they sense the heat build up. Usually cause of failure of these is the temperature overload circuits fail and the charger stops working.
Samsung needs to upgrade the charging circuitry of their devices with these bigger batteries to that of the tablets, so we can then use a full 2 amp charger. Takes forever to charge up one of these things in the car under full load of bluetooth, gps and screen with wimpy chargers.
The Motorola charger mentioned on other threads is pretty good for short bursts, but the wiring is too thin and the charge rate drops off after 15-20 minutes to around 575 ma or less.
Here is the link to BB for the charger.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Rocketf...&skuId=1114106&st=micro usb charger&cp=1&lp=2
Good info, thanks. FYI same charger can be found cheaper via eBay and Amazon.