Related
I was on my nightly bicycle ride using Cardio Trainer and my Skull Candy Smokin Buds, and everytime id move the phone in my bicycle jersey near the headphone jack it would cause the music to skip/stop/ff sometimes try to voice search and sometimes try to redial out ... I can replicate the problem here at home by jiggling the headphone jack around abit .......... anyone else
Yes. I posted the exact same thing in Q&A forum. Got no response but I figured it out.
Sometimes when you plug in your headphones they are detected as a headset. It doesn't occur that often, just make sure the notification icon doesn't have the microphone part. Otherwise any shaking causes songs to skip, phone to freak out and voice dialer starts.
Apparently there's also an app that makes sure they always do connect in headset mode. I think I'll go replace my phone anyway.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
I had the same thing happen yesterday. I was testing some speakers at a job site and the phone was going CRAZY. I pulled the phone out of the otterbox case and re-plugged the headphone in and it was fine. I think my problem was the case + cable was not making the correct contact. Today I had the headphones from a PSP plugged in (with case) and it was fine.
Looks like its the same thing that was heading to my evo4g. The headphone input is design for 3 ring conductor (for remote control) but your headphone jack has 2 ring conductor thus making your phone act weird. I brought an adopter (you can go search amazon) and it fixed the problem.
go to marketplace and download "headset blocker". it wont show up in your apps list. go to 1 of your homescreens, and add its widget. its a toggle that you turn on and off. when its on, none of the headphone control features will work, and it it should just play your music without skipping tracks and what not.
I have the same issue did you ever figure it out?
Like previously mentioned this is because it is designed for a 3 ring conductor. 1 is left, 2 is right, 3 is microphone/control. The controls are back track, forward track, pause/play/answer/hangup. If you have a pair of headphones with 2 conductor (which is fine and it is also designed for) you are good. If, however, you aren't making full contact (because of cases being in the way or you have a 'non standard' headphones, read: cheap ****) wacky things can happy from intermittent contact of the various points.
I've never experienced this on either phone, but, it is a thing and it makes perfect sense.
There is another possibility...that the jack is fncked up. Poorly soldered, defective jack, abused (all it takes it one good jerk on the cable to ruin everything).
It's not as random and wacky of a situation as it sounds like.
I have two different 2 ring (stereo) headphone cables from two different manufacturers and the cable has nothing to do with the issue in my case. The issue is not with headphone/earbuds and not with the cable not plugging in all the way. The issue for me is that when you have the headphone cable plugged into the jack and the other end is feeding any type of amp: stereo equipment, Aux input in a car, whatever, the phone absolutely loses its mind. I've tested it on three different phones now and it does it every time. The phone is unusable until you download, install, and activate Headset Blocker from the market. Then everything works perfectly. It appears to be a defect in either the hardware or the software because it is picking up electrical noise as headset control signals.
BTW, I've measured the cables and tested to be sure they plug in all the way. They are standard 2 ring (which means three conductor) cables that should not be triggering any headset functionality. Something on these phones is falsely triggering the headset connection: maybe some very small electrical signal or voltage coming from aux inputs because as I said, earbuds/headphones with the exact same connector don't have the problem.
Mike
I had the same problem and just swapped it for a new phone. If you're still under 30 days just take it back.
mikeyxda said:
I have two different 2 ring (stereo) headphone cables from two different manufacturers and the cable has nothing to do with the issue in my case. The issue is not with headphone/earbuds and not with the cable not plugging in all the way. The issue for me is that when you have the headphone cable plugged into the jack and the other end is feeding any type of amp: stereo equipment, Aux input in a car, whatever, the phone absolutely loses its mind. I've tested it on three different phones now and it does it every time. The phone is unusable until you download, install, and activate Headset Blocker from the market. Then everything works perfectly. It appears to be a defect in either the hardware or the software because it is picking up electrical noise as headset control signals.
BTW, I've measured the cables and tested to be sure they plug in all the way. They are standard 2 ring (which means three conductor) cables that should not be triggering any headset functionality. Something on these phones is falsely triggering the headset connection: maybe some very small electrical signal or voltage coming from aux inputs because as I said, earbuds/headphones with the exact same connector don't have the problem.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds likely that it could be a grounding issue, probably on the amp side...though it could be on the phone side, especially if this happens to some phones and not others. If this is pro gear there is probably a ground lift switch on the back...give that a shot, if it doesn't help then it is definitely the phone...which I am leaning towards since it seems to happen on some and not others.
Headset Blocker from Market. I had a video on youtube about this and my thread is here.
i am having the same problem. thanks for the heads up for the headset blocker app. beats using up warranty or paying deductible for now.
I know this thread is 2 years old, but I figured bumping is better than starting a new thread. Anways, this issue has been driving me crazy to no end. Headset blocker stops the false signals. However, if it's in your pocket and the base of the jack is bent, (at least on Skullcandy products + HTC Inspire), music stops playing from the left ear.
Anyways, I figured out a solution to this. Cut a 3.4mm hole in a credit card, and then insert your headphone jack. Trim the card around where you insert the headphone jack. To get the right size hole, I use a knife to penetrate the card, and then use a screwdriver to widen the hole until it's about right. It should stop all interference and false signals, audio cutting when your phone is in your pocket and the headphone base is bent.
This also works on heaphones that have microphones; however, you have to remove the plastic piece if you want to use the mic.
Abaout those adapters on Amazon that someone mentioned; what do I search to find them?
daneurysm said:
It sounds likely that it could be a grounding issue, probably on the amp side...though it could be on the phone side, especially if this happens to some phones and not others. If this is pro gear there is probably a ground lift switch on the back...give that a shot, if it doesn't help then it is definitely the phone...which I am leaning towards since it seems to happen on some and not others.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, it's certainly on the phone side.
I've had the same issues plugging it into my car and into professional audio equipment.
Headset blocker is great. I just keep it on all the time.
It was pretty funny sitting in the car and realizing that it's dialing everyone on your contact list though. Couldn't make it stop even after unplugging it. It went crazy.
DjDom said:
Nope, it's certainly on the phone side.
I've had the same issues plugging it into my car and into professional audio equipment.
Headset blocker is great. I just keep it on all the time.
It was pretty funny sitting in the car and realizing that it's dialing everyone on your contact list though. Couldn't make it stop even after unplugging it. It went crazy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the exact same thing on my device, but it happens with any headphones i have plugged in
moving them just a bit causes google now to launch repeatedly and the music to skip,play,pause,etc
to fix it i remember using a blocker from the market and editing the code that launches google now via headphones so the blocker would block it aswell
Product links:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Stereo-Clip-On-Bluetooth-Headset/dp/B0057WWK5E
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16875982446
High Resolution Image Gallery (Close up of buttons, and dimensions): http://imgur.com/a/b5HyR#0
In short, at half the price of the HTC Stereo Clip, I don't see why you would buy anything else. (A simple male to male adapter and it'll plug into your head unit just the same.)
Audio Quality: It's great! The new APT-X codec(?) is awesome. It would take a double blind hearing test for me to tell the difference between the Samsung and a wire. Can you tell? Maybe, but requiring a double blind test is good enough for me in my car.
Note: I have the bluetooth feeding directly into an amplifier that feeds my speakers. I no longer have a headunit.
For me, there are so many benefits of this unit vs the Stereo Clip.
Less than half the cost ! ($30 vs $70 for HTC Clip)
I can plug ANY set of headphones into the bluetooth and have "wireless" headphones
Has a built in mic, so I can answer calls with it in the car or out
Great battery life
Comes with a nice pair of short corded ear buds that have decent sound isolation as well
A minor gripe: If you look at the photos, the buttons are really small with no tactile differentiation. I always have to look at it to figure out what side I'm going push. It would have been so easy to make one side have some tactile difference.
Nice review!!! I just received mine yesterday and I love it as well. Definitely worth 30 bucks. Agree with everything you posted!
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Ordered mine earlier today! Looks like I made a good choice....now I got to go set up some new Tasker profiles
can you pair two devices to this thing (i.e. ELTE for me and 4S for my wife)?
I'm looking for an a2dp adapter to do a fixed install inside my car. Can I leave this hooked up to a usb power source constantly and hide the reciever in my armrest? Also is there any problem using these for a2dp only and using my car's built in hands free?
donatom3 said:
I'm looking for an a2dp adapter to do a fixed install inside my car. Can I leave this hooked up to a usb power source constantly and hide the reciever in my armrest? Also is there any problem using these for a2dp only and using my car's built in hands free?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would be interested to know if it would automatically power on or stay on for a fix car install. If you just want a2dp fixed install, check out the isimple isfm21. It does hard wired fm modulation or rca line out and has an Android app to change fm frequency.
Ph33zy said:
can you pair two devices to this thing (i.e. ELTE for me and 4S for my wife)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't see why not. In fact, it supports two simultaneous connections as well (if the devices support it).
donatom3 said:
I'm looking for an a2dp adapter to do a fixed install inside my car. Can I leave this hooked up to a usb power source constantly and hide the reciever in my armrest?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dmacias said:
I would be interested to know if it would automatically power on or stay on for a fix car install.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have mine hooked up in a sort of fixed install. I have a USB and 3.5 mm cord running through my dash up to my sun visor where the Adapter sits, I was also going to do a totally fixed hidden install, but that would have hidden the built-in mic negating the hands free calling functionality. As long as your armrest isn't surrounded in metal (blocking the bluetooth signal), you should be fine. I briefly had it in my center console to test and it worked fine, then I realized, hey I won't be able to use the mic if I do that.
My USB is hooked up to a secondary cigarette socket I installed that is only live when the ignition is on. You definitely could leave it hooked up to a constant power source, but I don't know what that would do to the battery over time (the bluetooth battery and your car battery). I've decided to play it safe and not kill the battery. Having said that, if it's permanent, it shouldn't be an issue even if the bluetooth battery stops taking a charge. I've seen laptops that have dead batteries, but ppl are able to still use them plugged in.
It doesn't turn on and off automatically, so here it may be different from the StereoClip (I don't have a StereoClip so I don't know). It does work while hooked up to power so you could leave it on all the time as mentioned above. I turn mine off although I did forget one time and left it on, no biggie since it's connected to power. I'm going to set up a tasker profile to remind me to turn it off.
Also is there any problem using these for a2dp only and using my car's built in hands free?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know. I do know that it supports a2dp, and it supports two simultaneous bluetooth connections if the devices support it to play music, but I'm not sure how that works with calls and whether or not it would try to play the music through your car's hands free system and whatever you have plugged.
I've never had a car built in hands free system so I don't know how that works. There's a small section in the manual about simultaneous bluetooth connections if you want to try and find the manual online.
couragedragon said:
I don't see why not. In fact, it supports two simultaneous connections as well (if the devices support it).
I have mine hooked up in a sort of fixed install. I have a USB and 3.5 mm cord running through my dash up to my sun visor where the Adapter sits, I was also going to do a totally fixed hidden install, but that would have hidden the built-in mic negating the hands free calling functionality. As long as your armrest isn't surrounded in metal (blocking the bluetooth signal), you should be fine. I briefly had it in my center console to test and it worked fine, then I realized, hey I won't be able to use the mic if I do that.
My USB is hooked up to a secondary cigarette socket I installed that is only live when the ignition is on. You definitely could leave it hooked up to a constant power source, but I don't know what that would do to the battery over time (the bluetooth battery and your car battery). I've decided to play it safe and not kill the battery. Having said that, if it's permanent, it shouldn't be an issue even if the bluetooth battery stops taking a charge. I've seen laptops that have dead batteries, but ppl are able to still use them plugged in.
It doesn't turn on and off automatically, so here it may be different from the StereoClip (I don't have a StereoClip so I don't know). It does work while hooked up to power so you could leave it on all the time as mentioned above. I turn mine off although I did forget one time and left it on, no biggie since it's connected to power. I'm going to set up a tasker profile to remind me to turn it off.
I don't know. I do know that it supports a2dp, and it supports two simultaneous bluetooth connections if the devices support it to play music, but I'm not sure how that works with calls and whether or not it would try to play the music through your car's hands free system and whatever you have plugged.
I've never had a car built in hands free system so I don't know how that works. There's a small section in the manual about simultaneous bluetooth connections if you want to try and find the manual online.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sweet man.. I just bought one based on your review. Do you think you can take a picture of your setup?
I purchased one too, along with a whole host of cables to do a permanent hidden installation.
My only fear is leaving it on all of the time, only charging when I am in the vehicle. Hopefully it has a "standby" mode to conserve power when the power switch is on but nothing is connected.
OP, I won't get mine until Tuesday, is there anyway you can test a permanent always-on installation like I'm talking about by seeing how yours does leaving the power switch on for a day or so?
The tech specs list a 130hour standby battery life. Should be more then enough when the car is not moving. my delema is that I cant find any decent Y adapters to split my one usb socket in my car into 2, But that is another story.
Ph33zy said:
Sweet man.. I just bought one based on your review. Do you think you can take a picture of your setup?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, will post some tonight
modplan said:
OP, I won't get mine until Tuesday, is there anyway you can test a permanent always-on installation like I'm talking about by seeing how yours does leaving the power switch on for a day or so?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really, I use it all the time in and out of the car everyday so I'm always charging it to make sure it's topped off. Sorry man.
I did leave it on overnight once and it was fine.
Sent from my EVO LTE w/ TapaTalk 2
texanman said:
The tech specs list a 130hour standby battery life. Should be more then enough when the car is not moving. my delema is that I cant find any decent Y adapters to split my one usb socket in my car into 2, But that is another story.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, but does standby mean power switch is off, or power switch is on but nothing connected?
I just bought this little guy to do the splitting and will install it behind my dash where I already have the wires to my dock run.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10307&cs_id=1030702&p_id=6631&seq=1&format=2
I couldn't find a simple y splitter either, that wasn't 32 feet long....
[
I just bought this little guy to do the splitting and will install it behind my dash where I already have the wires to my dock run.<br />
<br />
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10307&cs_id=1030702&p_id=6631&seq=1&format=2<br />
<br />
I couldn't find a simple y splitter either, that wasn't 32 feet long....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My concern with that is it'll only charge your phone in USB mode which isn't enough when using navigation with the screen on.
I ended up getting a dual USB adapter that charged in AC mode and running two usb cords.
Sent from EVO LTE w/ TapaTalk 2
couragedragon said:
My concern with that is it'll only charge your phone in USB mode which isn't enough when using navigation with the screen on.
I ended up getting a dual USB adapter that charged in AC mode and running two usb cords.
Sent from EVO LTE w/ TapaTalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have the car dock, it forces AC mode, as long as your charger has enough current (at least 1A).
My charger is 2.1A, the bluetooth will probably pull 500mA and the phone will pull 1A, so in my case (with the dock) the hub should work fine, and will look a lot cleaner with only one cord running from my cigarette lighter to behind my dash.
But to each their own. I'll take pics of my setup on Tuesday.
Ph33zy said:
Sweet man.. I just bought one based on your review. Do you think you can take a picture of your setup?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't made it pretty yet. I usually run my stuff for several weeks before I shore up all the wires and hide everything behind the dash properly and make a custom plate to cover up the head unit opening and paint the L Bracket I used black.
http://imgur.com/a/igJgN#6
modplan said:
If you have the car dock, it forces AC mode, as long as your charger has enough current (at least 1A).
My charger is 2.1A, the bluetooth will probably pull 500mA and the phone will pull 1A, so in my case (with the dock) the hub should work fine, and will look a lot cleaner with only one cord running from my cigarette lighter to behind my dash.
But to each their own. I'll take pics of my setup on Tuesday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know what, at first I was like NUH UH! And then I remembered, the first dock I got didn't do that AND it eventually stopped working (charging) and I had to exchange it for another one. So it was probably faulty. Good to know. Thanks for the heads up.
What's the range on this device? Sometimes I don't have good signal in the office so I have to leave it by a window. Usually no more than 20-30 feet away. Wanted to know cause I like to stream Pandora usually all day while I walk around the office.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2 Beta-5
dwiz06 said:
What's the range on this device? Sometimes I don't have good signal in the office so I have to leave it by a window. Usually no more than 20-30 feet away. Wanted to know cause I like to stream Pandora usually all day while I walk around the office.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2 Beta-5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found that the Bluetooth signal is very dependant on a variety of factors. You'll likely be on the edge of its range though.
For example, in my house I've been 20ish feet away and it works fine, but if go in a certain corner with a bunch of appliances it gets crackly.
I've also parked directly in front of a strip mall store and gone inside easily 30 feet with no issues.
Sent from EVO LTE w/ TapaTalk 2
I'm glad to have found this seeing as how the HTC stereoclip does NOT route your phone calls, when a phone call comes in it mites the music and it will use the speaker on the phone nut your car speakers. It only routs music. Which seems incredibly dumb to me. But I suppose HTC has to sell you another blue tooth device to take phone calls.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
Freelancerx said:
I'm glad to have found this seeing as how the HTC stereoclip does NOT route your phone calls, when a phone call comes in it mites the music and it will use the speaker on the phone nut your car speakers. It only routs music. Which seems incredibly dumb to me. But I suppose HTC has to sell you another blue tooth device to take phone calls.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably because they couldn't be bothered to also lower the phone stream's volume and if they had a mic on the device it would just pick up the other person's voice from the car speakers and it would be a whole bucket of echoes without active noise cancellation.
I got mine, and I have to say it sounds fantastic. I have it in my "fixed" install. basically I have it plugged into a cigarette lighter that turns off with the car, and the audio is running under my console to the backside of my radio.
With the HTC car dock, my phone connects to my factory bluetooth handsfree for phone calls, and the Samsung for music, and standard audio, such as nav.
Only problem I have is it stays on when the power is off which means my phone stays connected when I go into my house.
I am considering cutting the battery wire on the inside to solve that issue.
This is a recurring problem i keep having across android phones and I'm trying to find some kind of solution ....
Ive got a few different car stereos, they all allow usb mass storage mounting to directly read/play songs from the phone.
They all require the same basic things: they expect to see a fat32 partition, they load the first and only the first partition that they can see, and they load every "media" file in the drive, including the nav turn by turn cache, etc.
Im hoping someone can write a program similar to "multi mount sd card" that basically allows you to choose a particular folder where you know all of your music, and only your music, is stored, and present that single folder to the car stereo as a good old fashioned mass storage device with a fat32 partition. Theoretically, id hope to leave the rest of the storage access able to the other programs on the phone, the only thing that would be affected maybe is the music player....which i wouldn't be using. I have different kinds of problems with getting this to work across different phones, an app like this could fix them all at once.
Ive got a lot of different tech experience e but im not a dev by any stretch. Ive tried a lot and my current issue is card order, stereo is seeing the internal card but my music is on external and it refuses to look past the first partition.
Anyone got any ideas? Ive got a razr (vzw) on the 215 leak.
Just wondering, I have a few decks in my cars and trucks also... Why do you plug your phone into the deck? I just recently got a Pioneer deh-6400bt for 149$ that allows me to seamlessly use Bluetooth to play music and also to talk with for hands free since its technically illegal to talk on the phone in Oregon....gr... anyways, And another point almost all decks that I have used, kenwood, alpine, pioneer, don't push enough power through the USB to make it worth your while to plug your phone in while using it. And all of those decks that had USB input also had a AUX input in the front.
he probably wants to use the deck to control the music, which can't be done with the aux cable
That is true... Have to tell you though.. BT is the shizzz though.. get in your rig and start it up... connects to phone and continues streaming where it left off and having the hands free is awesome
1. I actually have the pioneer deh-p6200bt in one of my cars - and it doesn't stream bluetooth audio, only phone functions. My other vehicle has a deck which can stream BT audio, and it's great for some things, like pandora, but with my internal music collection the audio quality is just not up to par, it's an obvious weak link.
2. The USB port charges at standard USB rates. It isn't a quick charge but it's certainly enough to make things worthwhile. I've found that on extended, 6-10 hour drives, running pandora, wifi tether, nav, torque and leaving the screen on constantly, yes, it can discharge to the point where it shuts off. I was running this configuration while driving for a touring band once. More often, however, I'm not using everything at once, and i turn the screen off just because I don't always need it. It seems that I can run pandora, nav, torque, and have the phone still actually charge, it was serving wifi tether to the rest of the van that caused the phone to go over the edge and actually pull more power than it wAas getting in. Moreover, the bigger problem I wind up having is that phones will actually stop charging themselves from overheating (sun heat through windshield, and/or just to much load on the phones systems at once), at which point the amperage is irrelevant. In fact this may have been the ONLY problem I was having, while driving I couldn't pay enough attention to the phone to figure out much other than "oh hell it shut off cause its cooking itself".
3. Yes, I want control over tracks from front of deck, and USB is THE most complete way to do that, especially in the one car I have where i have steering wheel controls. I can search for specific tracks from the wheel, as well as call up any phone functions, which is more than the BT side would be able to do - in BT audio mode my systems seem to only be able to start/pause and track forward/reverse. Having hardware buttons that handle both phone and music leaves the screen of the device free for torque or maps.
4. On the audio quality note, if you're playing digital files stored on the device, nothing beats using the stereo to play them via USB, because the deck itself is the actual computer doing the conversion and the D/A converters in the deck should theoretically be nicer than anything in a cell phone. Its the cleanest path one could have.
For things like pandora, this isn't always possible, and in that case the next best option would be a toss up between BT and the 3.5mm jack, based on your ears which is cleaner. in absolutely ideal scenarios, where BT on the deck supports the more recent high quality a2dp codecs, BT can sound as good or better than the cable. A2DP audio isn't exactly this clear cut though, as the blanket of A2DP doesn't specify which codecs are supported, and the better ones are a more recent thing. I'll say that the cell phones have been good about this, it's more that the decks themselves don't always have the newer codecs. And in addition to that, there's still the matter of settings within either device, such at bitpool on the phone, that can have an effect on the sound. Unfortunately, my setup is such that only one deck I have does actual BT streaming, and while nice for some things definitely doesn't sound as good as when it is cabled or using USB directly.
The cable has the disadvantage of running through multiple conversions - the phone goes from D to A through it's own, lower quality converter, the stereo gets that signal as A, changes it to D in order to apply EQ/etc, then back to A as it goes down to the amps. It's generally unnecessary to do something like this if one can avoid it.
There is a third option, but this is very rare and just sort of coming to market - if you happen to have an in car video system with an HDMI input, it will send the streaming audio info as a pure digital signal and as with USB the radios D/A converters will be the units making the actual sound and thus being just as clean. An example of a unit like this is the Pioneer SPh-da100 (I could be wrong on model number), AKA the "appradio2". These are rare, and the least expensive version of this I've found is around 300-350 bucks. One thing I don't like about the appradio is that it seems to have only 2 sets of preamp outs....other than that, it looks like an amazing solution for at least one of my problems!
Basically.... sorry about the confused ramblings. I'm still trying to figure this out. The funny thing is - the phone presents the two storages, internal and external, and both of my radios make the connection - however one radio, a Dual unit, actually sees the external partition first and works fine, while the pioneer radio actually sees the internal first and it gives me nothing! the third vehicle I have, I actually am just using the 3.5mm in for sheer simplicity, it's an old crappy car that has no use for such a nice setup and the moto car dock with the combo usb/audio cable is actually a perfect fit for it. For the other cars, the moto car dock actually sucks, because it won't pass USB data, but that's another issue for another thread. Most likely I'm gonna gut it's frame and insert a straight through USB data cable for it.......
But I still need some way to make the phone consistently present the right info, all the time, every time!
Bump......
Anyone? Theres got to be someone else out there as frustrated by this as I am.....
Well, you're not the only one. I've running a Kenwood deck, on my Razr prior to the ICS update, I got it to work every time, since then...it's like rolling a die and trying to get lucky 7. Something in the update must have disabled the order of recognition of partitions coming up. I was able to get it to work...*once*. I've read that leaving dev/debug mode on some devices cause enough of a timing delay to let the deck recognize the sdcard, but this didn't work for me. There's actually a kenwood app that's supposed to help with all this but of course for me it does nothing. You might want to try the debug mode thing - I've read for some people that worked. I just want a way to configure the phone to *only* mount the sdcard drive when setup as a usb mass storage device. I'm assuming this is the problem, the internal storage confusing the deck.
It's been very frustrating...
So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
geetee360 said:
So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recall having an issue with my samsung headphones. They didn't work at one point, I rebooted and they were fine. The phone didn't even detect them for some reason. I've had no issues with aux in my car (aside from needing a new cable), however I thought it would be worth mentioning that my Note 2 had an issue with aux when it is on any AOSP ROMs. Selecting any app, even swiping the notification window down, sometimes even just leaving the music app and going back will stop the music from playing. The only solution for this was to go to the home screen unplug the aux start music playing and plug the cable back in and touch no other app. Again, it never did this with stock. I even went back to stock briefly because of this. AOSP seems to throw a fit with the aux cables.
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
infernosoft said:
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just want my G3 to work as it should for such a simple function as the headphone jack/aux port.
I want to listen to music in my car without fannying around with different cables etc etc.
I had a Galaxy Note and S4, both played fine in the same car with the same cabling.
Shame on LG for releasing us a substandard product that cannot perform the most basic of tasks correctly.
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
R2DeeTard said:
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My first feeling was confusion. I was also worried my headphones wouldn't work. But I was able to watch a beautiful high def video on my phone last night with my headphones on
Sent from my LGLS990
I just got this phone too, and although I love it, I was very sad to have this issue! I haven't had it on any other phone I have owned, so I certainly hope it is fixed in a future update. That and the video force close bug, but that is for another thread!
Guys, there is nothing wrong with the AUX port on your cars -- and they don't trigger via sound. They trigger via either conductive circuitry or via ohm load. Can you test if you are still seeing these problems when *not* charging? This issue is typically related to bad grounds. This happens to me at work when my phone is charging and I plug my headphones directly into my G3. If I pass the audio to my PC first (to the line-in,) and THEN to my headphones, the static is mostly gone.
So try unplugging the power source, and using different aux cables. Another factor is try plugging the power source into the same feed as the stereo. Sometimes this isn't that easy though.
What's happening on the back end with the sound changing between songs, etc, is that the audio codec, (the chipset,) is turning off to conserve battery. For me, when the chip turns on, it grounds the 3.5mm port just fine, and when it's off, AND I have power connected with headphones, I can get that whine -- depending on the scenario. So basically, this is by design -- an energy conservation tactic. I would be okay with them leaving the audio chip on the entire time headphones are connected.
Had this problem too and found that as long as I was charging the phone it would play like it should.
Yep, grounding issue. At work, routing the aux signal through my PC works just fine WHILE charging -- if I unplug, then I get all the machine noise.
In general, though, the headphone output is pretty crappy on this device. Even when it's "working great," there is still a faint amount of white noise that can be heard. Much higher than my HTC M7. The S5 had similar performance as the G3 though.
I just bought:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANDHBNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And plugged it into:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F474DVG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So when I get in my car, it connects to the dongle for music and the car's blue tooth for phone.
It's not perfect, but gets the job done.
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just purchased this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406313911&sr=8-1&keywords=kensington+noise+reducing+car+audio+aux+cable
Working pretty well. Mainly solves the connectivity issues.
Still have the pop between tracks but it's much better.
Still have the "computer talk" garbage noise related to the display coming through the left channel.
I can live with this until LG or Android comes up with a fix.
aux problem
I guess I lucked out with my phone but then again maybe not. First off I will describe my setup, I have a 05 Subaru WRX with stock 6cd changer head unit ( no aux port ) I installed a Harmon Kardon Drive + Play iPod dock. This allows me to remote control my iPod and comes with a display that shows tracks and such. It works by FM transmitter but has an optional wire which I have that connects directly between the antenna and the stereo so you get little to no loss of signal. Between the AUX and my phone I connected a PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise device. My previous phone was an LG Optimus G which I loved, when I hooked this phone up I could listen to Pandora/TuneinRadio through my car speakers and upon making/receiving a call I would hear the call through the car speakers and when I talked the phone mic. would pick up my voice. When I attempt this with the G3 I get no popping between tracks but the phone mutes the mic and when I say mute I don't mean the mute button comes on I mean the other person can't hear me. I found if I unplug and plug the phone in during the call eventually the mic works again, but to do this while driving defeats the purpose of hands free calling. Does anyone else have this problem? (or a solution).
Click to open expanded view
gorillaz1 said:
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Works for me, thank you.
Mines does not work at all, with headphones or aux Jack, now I have to get Bluetooth headphones and bluetooth radio for car
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Do we know if LG is working on this issue? Or if it is something that can even be fixed with an update? I'm getting tired of messing with the cable just to play music in my car, and I don't want to have to buy extra accessories to get the job done.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Srambo217 said:
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They fixed it with ZV6. If you're already on ZV6 then I have no idea.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
I use an aux cable in my car to listen to music and podcasts.
when starting spotify i experienced incredible amounts of static, no matter what volume both the phone and car volume were set at.
Anybody else experience this?
Experiencing this in my work truck, will check my car after work
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Works fine in my car. Must be something else
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
napafats said:
Works fine in my car. Must be something else
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be the worst static and fuzz ive ever experienced through a phone. Dont know what to do.
Any updates on this?
Mine comes out with an incredibly small amount of movement. Anyone else have this issue?
Nvm I just was being too easy on it. Requires a lot of pressure relative to anything else I've had for it to lock in.
Also you guys should dip a q-tip in rubbing alcohol and clean out your cars and phones headphone jacks. Especially in a work truck I imagine there's significant dust build up in there.
....cable
I found this too, even the headphones supplied need a fair amount of force to connect - at least they won't be pulled out so easy!
1 Maybe RF from cell communication leaking into audio or power cable.
2 Try with phone Not plugged into car power (I assume you run this with charger cable connected).
3 Try with better quality aux cable, maybe one that is shielded.
No fix. so aggravating.
Mine are flawless.
I just got the g5. Same issue. Tried multiple cables. Headphones work fine but not the aux cable
Just got my G5 a few days ago and I noticed this too.
In the car using a downloaded playlist on spotify and got terrible static noises (haven't tried any local music files as I don't use any!)
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
I tried it in another head unit and it works.
Aux cable works in my Alpine but not in the Kenwood.
Ok guys and gals. I've been dealing with this for a bit and I found a fix of sorts. First off, two G5s (a buddies and mine) both had static in my car, but no static in his car or my mother's car. The difference being is that I have an aftermarket JVC player (removable face plate, auxiliary jack in front). The other two cars had factory stereos. I was guessing it was an aftermarket thing. Weird, I know, but that was the only commonality. Even more odd was that out of four phones the G5 was the only one having the hissy fit.
On Reddit some people were fixing this problem with a "ground loop isolator". It's basically this little noise filter device that plugs in the audio jack. Maybe $15 on Amazon. Anyways, I was about to order one, but before that I decided to take the head unit out of my car to see if any wires were loose. No wires were loose, but what I did find was an alternative 3.5mm jack in the back of my stereo. I'm sure not all stereos have a second port, but there's a decent chance. My particular head unit isn't what you'd call fancy by any means and it has one. So I plugged it in the back 3.5mm port and wouldn't you know, crystal clear sound!! I was so happy when it worked! Now instead of putting my stereo to "auxiliary" for the front port. I have to put it on "bt audio" to access the rear one. (whatever bt audio means, who knows, but it works).
So that's basically it, find out if your car stereo has a secondary 3.5mm port in the back and give it a shot. I didn't realize it at first, but right next to the front auxiliary port it actually says dual auxiliary/audio port. It could be an easy way to find out. As for rerouting the cord. I have a little pocket directly under my radio. There was a tiny hole in the back of the pocket/tray that I put the wire through. It looks cleaner than having it stick out from the faceplate of the radio any way.
If your stereo doesn't have a second 3.5mm port in the back You may want to check out a "ground loop isolator" from Amazon.
Good luck folks. Peace.
Not sure if could post links to the isolator. I'll give it a try.
Kresk - Here is the part that will boggle your mind with this issue. Go and play the stock LG sound file on the phone (The "High Quality" audio track). Once that plays, the static stops. Then switch to your regular music app - I use Spotify - and the music plays static free until the built in music app closes in the background. Then all the static comes back. If there was some way to force the phone to stay in whatever mode it uses for the High Quality audio track, it could be a great fix.
I've also found that there are three different "modes" of static I get on my phone too
1) Static Free
2) Low level of background static, volume independent (volume stays the same low background noise)
3) High level of static, volume dependent (Higher the volume, more static)
Typically when I do the thing where I get it into High Quality audio mode or whatever its using, I get 2 when immediately switching to Spotify. If I lock and unlock my screen, it goes to 3.
I'm going to go and try to plug into the "BT Audio" port on the back of my JVC head unit and see if it works. Will report back on it. I also have a ground loop isolator coming in the mail tomorrow, so I can give an update on that as well.
~PubstarHero
You might need a Ground Loop Noise Isolator, such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2
I am thinking of getting one for an issue similar, but not the same as yours.
Same issues, in general. Static on most aux cables, and in my case some headphones don't work at all. My higher-end earbuds work flawlessly though, so go figure. Not sure what to do about it other than the ground fault isolator, though I was about to start looking into a Bluetooth-to-aux module.