Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Good news - you can plug just about anything into it from 9V up to 18V and it should charge it. Theoretically, it should also support step up charging from USB (trickle charge) but I've yet to prove that. (The power management processor supports it, but it might not be in the hardware.)
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
So, if you find a connector that fits it, plug it in. Don't worry about the current draw - as long as it's 1A or GREATER it should work fine (the device won't pull more than an 1A, even though our chargers are spec'd for 2)
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
sunglint said:
This is awesome info! That means for the car all we need is a fused line to the right plug (center positive of course.)
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While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
From Wikipedia:
A second problem is that nominally "Twelve-Volt" power in cars fluctuates widely. The actual voltage will be approximately 12.5 volts when dormant, (less when cold) approximately 14.5 volts when the engine and the alternator/generator are operating, (more when cold) and may briefly drop as low as 5-6 volts during engine start.[7] DC/DC converters will usually compensate for these small fluctuations.[citation needed]
Rarely, more extreme cases of voltage fluctuation can occur when the car battery is disconnected while the engine is running, or when the car receives a jump start. When the battery is disconnected, a load dump transient can produce very high voltages. A car receiving a jump start from a truck will be subject to its 24 V electrical system.[8] A "double battery jump-start" is performed by some tow truck drivers in cold climates.[9]
Design wise one has to take into account intermittent contact, and voltages outside the nominal 12 V DC like top voltage 9-16 V continuously, top voltage at 20 V during 1 hour, 24 V during 1 minute, 40 V during 400 ms.[10] Protection component tolerance example ratings are +50 to -60 V DC[11] Besides this there's also varying temperatures between -40 till +85 °C to contend with that can affect humidity and condensation.[10] Equipment connected this way must tolerate large variations in electrical- and climate environment.
For more, look at table 20-1 in http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download/EMC_CS_2009rev1.pdf which is reference [10] in the Wikipedia article. Granted, that's very conservative, but a 1A 12V low drop out regulator is cheap insurance for a piece of kit like our tablets.
Interesting. If you plug in tablet and that part number into Google you get lots of familiar looking pictures:
http://www.kitarm.com/news/205-cortex-a9-nvidia-tegra2-tablet-pc-with-10.html (and the photos are marked with this site: http://www.okpbw.com/).
bnovak said:
Hi Folks
After digging through mounds of tech docs, I was able to verify that the G-Tab uses the TI TPS658621A power management processor for charging.
Bad news - it's just out of reach for a standard laptop charger (19V) so we still need a converter.
Technical specs are available here - http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/tps658621d.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aasoror said:
This is great news, this means that the iGO tip that sends out 19v is safe to be used on the GTab.
Thanks for sharing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you read the same post I did? His suggestion is that 19V is too high and still needs to be converted.
wd5gnr said:
While you might be able to do that, I don't recommend it. If you do it anyway, do yourself a favor and NEVER EVER EVER leave it plugged in while you are starting the car.
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I agree, and thanks for the info. I do ham radio and already know to not plug things in until the car is running, actually learned that from xda years back from cell phone charging. I also use Anderson Powerpoles for the connections, very highly recommend these. This does mean that given the same precautions I already follow I can make up a nice charging cable pretty easily. And I'll certainly look in to the low voltage protection, just in case.
edit:just saw the call sign, 73s!
well unfortunately I can say that this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MYLLCC
doesnt work
actually it might
it just doenst fit......
sigh
My husband just remembered that we bought a power converter years ago to charge a laptop while traveling in Europe.
Would this work without any problems with the Gtab?
Found the model here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jg9JaV...er-Pocket-Inverter-175.html?tab=detailed_info
You mean by plugging in the AC charger to it? Should work fine. The output of the stock charger is about 24W so even if it is grossly inefficient, a 140W power inverter should be fine.
Naturally, I assume no risk, yada yada yada, your mileage may vary, void where prohibited by law.
Hey, if it helps anyone at all, I bought this car adapter from the radio shack and it works well. None of the included tips worked with my Gtab, so I cut the tip off my included wall charger and using two of the adapt-a-plug connectors also available at the shack, I made it so I can use the tip on either my wall charger or my car charger. Just gotta remember to take it with me, and of course get the polarity right. Its a regulated 12 volt charger, so it reduces some of the spikes and drops from the car battery, the amperage is correct, and the on/off switch means you can wait to turn it on until after the car is started. Reduces the amount of plugging and unplugging nicely.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3889594
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
LoganFive said:
I have a power inverter that also has a USB outlet on it for the car. I have also seen an auto adapter that had just 2 USB outlets on it at dollar store. Are these tpes safe to charge the gTab?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GTab can't be charged via USB
Power Brick
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
greymane98 said:
So I apologize for what I'm sure is a dumb question but I don't know squat about electricity.
Will this or will this NOT work with a Igo charger. Deals.woot (today only) has a 90W slimline charger that apparently outputs about 19V. The first post would lead me to believe this will not work while a subsequent one indicates it would.
I'm inclined to believe this WILL NOT work but wanted to check.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another member reported earlier that he has researched the power management chip on the GTab and it will apparently run up 18v, this justify why many has been using the iGO Asus netbook tip successfully for so long.
Now for the woot deal, I wouldn't bother with a "refurbished" item when you can get the tried and working travel adapter for $18 (shipped) and $20 (for the version with the auto and airplane adapter) there is a confirmed tip that fits the gtab included.
http://www.buy.com/listing/sellerlistings.asp?sku=211343528&buy=0
http://www.buy.com/prod/-igo-40w-un...usb-4-power-tips-for/q/loc/101/219613586.html
Best of luck,
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
I've been using an iGo netbook charger for 3 weeks without any problem. I found it on sale at Office Depot for $8 the week before they dropped the GTab price to $300. Three weeks is probably only 7 or 8 charge cycles, but I've paid attention looking for hot spots, etc. and haven't noticed anything. I don't love the stiffness of the cable, but it was $8. I'm not complaining.
My only charging "problem" is that the silly thing wakes up when it hits 100% (VEGAn-TAB Ginger). Having the screen come on at full brightness just when I'm falling asleep was funny the first time, but it's getting annoying that I keep forgetting to power it off.
Dan
wd5gnr said:
The first post says the top end is 18V by the data sheet. Where have you seen someone quote 20V?
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Click to collapse
My mistake, I stand corrected, its 18v.
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
hopbros said:
my power adapter plug receiver (male end) on gtablet is bent/broke. is there another option to power?
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Click to collapse
the end in the tablet itself, or the end with the wire that goes to the wall?
if it's the wire end, you can get new plugs at radioshack. But requires some soldering skill to get them on there.
or you can get a universal 12-18V / 1amp charger with multiple tips.
Related
Just received "Tomtom Navigator 6 GPS Kit". Didn't test it yet as GPS, still charging.
What I noticed that it comes with the car charger that completely compatible with G-Tab. Connector size and 12V, 2A center positive.
Just to let people know who are looking for the car charger for the Tab.
Have you tried it yet?
I have one that someone gave me, from a broken portable DVD player. It also is rated 12V 2A, but I am afraid to try it.
The weird thing is that they also gave me the wall wart for the same DVD player, and it is rated at 9V 2.2A. That works perfectly for my ZT-180 tablet.
wasserkapf said:
Have you tried it yet?
I have one that someone gave me, from a broken portable DVD player. It also is rated 12V 2A, but I am afraid to try it.
The weird thing is that they also gave me the wall wart for the same DVD player, and it is rated at 9V 2.2A. That works perfectly for my ZT-180 tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tested Bluetooth GPS unit with G-tab... Works perfect on GAdam 1.1.1.
As of charger, I'll give it a shot later on. Will post the results.
wasserkapf said:
Have you tried it yet?
I have one that someone gave me, from a broken portable DVD player. It also is rated 12V 2A, but I am afraid to try it.
The weird thing is that they also gave me the wall wart for the same DVD player, and it is rated at 9V 2.2A. That works perfectly for my ZT-180 tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tried my DVD car charger either because even though it fits, it has a sticker on it that says "Do not use for battery recharging".
SORRY!!!
Made an a$$ of myself.
Have to read more careful... That was input 12V, 2A... Although the plug is the right size.
Unfortunately output is 5V, 2A that does not charge the Tab....
So.... Went to Walmart and bought an inverter: "Philips" model DVDP32.
It charges Tab using regular A/C plug supplied with G-tab.
Price $20.
Now can use the Tab as GPS without draining the battery.
glad that the tomtom gps works!
may I ask which navigation software you use?
I'm still looking for a good one.
hopefully a nice affordable offline nav app...
This is great to know.
themsn said:
glad that the tomtom gps works!
may I ask which navigation software you use?
I'm still looking for a good one.
hopefully a nice affordable offline nav app...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intend to use CoPilot live 8.
Great GPS, have one on my HD2, windows thou.
Nice part is that you're not dependent on any connection, WiFi or 3G.
All maps are pre-loaded and updates coming regularly. It's nice to have it on the phone, but screen is small comparing to G-Tab. Otherwise NA edition costs only $19 right now, discounted from usual $26.
Tester30 said:
Intend to use CoPilot live 8.
Great GPS, have one on my HD2, windows thou.
Nice part is that you're not dependent on any connection, WiFi or 3G.
All maps are pre-loaded and updates coming regularly. It's nice to have it on the phone, but screen is small comparing to G-Tab. Otherwise NA edition costs only $19 right now, discounted from usual $26.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the tip as well as the deal tip.
but I can't find copilot on my market. (read somewhere that certain apps may not show up if hardware specs aren't fulfilled)
so hopefully I'll be able to find it before the sale ends.
I downloaded CoPilot Live 8 from market.android.com . The US version is only $4.95 and it works great for me with BlueGPS on my Gtab. I am running VegaN 5.1
Got to Radio Shack and get a 12V auto adapter, they sell one that has changeable tips. There is nothing magic about the charger 12V 2A DC that's it.
Rumbleweed said:
Got to Radio Shack and get a 12V auto adapter, they sell one that has changeable tips. There is nothing magic about the charger 12V 2A DC that's it.
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Click to collapse
As long as that won't fry the tablet in the long run, sounds like an excellent idea.
Keep in mind that cars run about 13v to 14.6v, so unless the car adapter is already doing some regulation it might be higher than 12v. Personally, to be safe, I would get a cheap auto adapter, crack it open, put a voltage regulator inside to drop it down to something closer to the charger voltage, which IIRC is 7.4v (correct me if I am wrong) The factory charger is 12v 2a, so probably the charger is exactly perfect. But then again, I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy.
Does anyone know if it is actually fine/good to charge it off 12v? Or is it one of those things that works fine but in a few months will end up frying the internal voltage regulator for the charging circuit because it got too hot or was just at the limit of its capabilities from running at 12v?
Too bad the device wont charge over USB...
LowSky said:
Too bad the device wont charge over USB...
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I know, really wish it did... also wish that it had micro USB, not mini.
Now if only I could open it up and set up the USB power to raise up to the charging voltage and connect that to the charger. I doubt it has the room though. Anyone have pics of the inside?
Cocide said:
Keep in mind that cars run about 13v to 14.6v, so unless the car adapter is already doing some regulation it might be higher than 12v.
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Click to collapse
If the auto adapter says that it has an output of 12V 2A, then that is what it will usually output. You can check the voltage fairly easily.
Cocide said:
Personally, to be safe, I would get a cheap auto adapter, crack it open, put a voltage regulator inside to drop it down to something closer to the charger voltage, which IIRC is 7.4v (correct me if I am wrong).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're wrong.
It is 12V 2A, I don't know where you got your information from. Why don't you just look at the specs on the power supply?
wasserkapf said:
If the auto adapter says that it has an output of 12V 2A, then that is what it will usually output. You can check the voltage fairly easily.
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Click to collapse
Was under the impression he was using one of the adapters that just gave you power from the car but had no form of voltage control and just a fuse. I had a friend fry a Garmin with a cheap '12 v' adapter that was just fused, so just wanted to make sure.
wasserkapf said:
You're wrong.
It is 12V 2A, I don't know where you got your information from. Why don't you just look at the specs on the power supply?
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Thanks for the correction, I just didn't have a charger near me to check when I posted. But now I feel a lot better about car charging.
I've been looking for a car charger for my incoming tab, I'll have to check out the shack.
The cheapo' ones from places like monopice or merit line bleed off extra voltage via heat, so they are easy to fry. A good charger that has the proper regulator circuitry to output at it's given rating should not get warm when used.
Cocide said:
I know, really wish it did... also wish that it had micro USB, not mini.
Now if only I could open it up and set up the USB power to raise up to the charging voltage and connect that to the charger. I doubt it has the room though. Anyone have pics of the inside?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree I have changed all of my plugs from mini usb to micro now. =/
Found one
Radio Shack has a 12v 2A charger with interchangable tips. The "B" tip is the one that fits, and I confirm it working. I am an idiot and didn't realize that the tip connections are polarized so I thought the charger was broken at first. Make sure to have the word "TIP" on the connector line up with the "INPUT" on the actual charger.
well..you guys are somewhat right and somewhat wrong.
the 12VDC on a car can be anywhere from 11VDC (engine off, battery low) to 14.5VDC.
Careful with some of the plugs. If they are not regulated, it's just a voltage divider resistor in the power stage and may not be current limited.
On the other hand, if it is current limited, and the tablet starts pulling 2A from a 500mA (most cell chargers) plug, you'll let out the magic smoke that makes it work.
I've got it on the docket to do a true regulated 12VDC / 2A charger as well. I'll see if I can get some cheapies and do some testing to show you guys what I'm talking about but I need to get a small controllable load.
Trying to gauge interest for a pet project.
How many of you would be interested in an adapter that would allow you to use a laptop "brick" to charge your G-Tab?
First design is going to be for the Dell laptop power supplies (since I have a plethora of them )
If there is enough interest in other laptop supplies I will look at different connectors as well.
No idea on mfg costs right now, need to prove concept first. Cost target (Resale) is ~$10
I'd like to see and adapter that fits the Dell D and E series Latitude chargers.
That's the one I'm aiming for initially. Newer series Dell with the ROUND receptacle. I "think" it might still work with the octagonal receptecles though. Need to get some samples and try it out for fit.
Cost might be sligthly higher than I originally anticipated (Still <$20 though) - the damn Dell connector is a quasi-custom and cheapest I've found is $6+ shipping....grumble....
If the old receptacles work, that brings the cost down.
Haven't priced the tablet side connector yet, but I'm guessing it's going to be a couple bucks with a lead on it.
More to come....hoping to have some parts by next week to start building up protos.
I'd be very interested in something that would plug into a USB port on a desktop or laptop or any USB power supply.
I have a couple of D-Series laptops and would love to use the same charger for them and my G-Tab. I would definitely buy one.
nunjabusiness said:
I'd be very interested in something that would plug into a USB port on a desktop or laptop or any USB power supply.
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Click to collapse
If you have USB3.0 it "might" be possible as that has higher current carrying (3.6W) potential than USB1 and USB2.0 which are ~500mW at best. That's one disadvanage to the big ass battery in these things, which I think are 7.2V, so they usually require a higher input voltage (hence why we get 12V in). Even with USB3.0 though, we are still looking at long (10x+) charging times versus the wall-wart.
It's "technically" possible to step up the current USB 5V to 12V, but the power level is so low that it would take forever and a day to charge ( or about 48x longer than the current 12V/2A wall charger)
without a proper teardown though, it's tough to tell what the charging circuit looks like on the board. My guess is it's a 12V / 7.2V buck charger as it's cheaper than a boost/buck to implement. My bigger question about the internal charging circuit though is what it actually draws in terms of power...the wall wart is rated for 12V/2A, but those are usually overbuilt to prevent them from blowing up. Hoping it's closer to 1A draw, but again without knowing what the charger chip is, there's no (Easy) way to determine this without probing the connections.
bnovak said:
How many of you would be interested in an adapter that would allow you to use a laptop "brick" to charge your G-Tab?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Count me in as well. I travel a ton for work and having one less charger to stuff in my carry-on would be great - well worth the sub-$20 price.
I currently pack a PA-4E, stock charger for a Latitude E6510
I would be interested, though I have an ASUS laptop at the moment.
On a side note, if you did only decide to make one and it were for Dell, anyone could purchase a universal adapter and care the one adapter and two tips. Just a thought.
Hey all, I was looking into getting a car power adapter for hte G-Tab. I looked on Electroniccrap.com, but everything is usually "out of stock." He sells the iGo systems, which Radio Shack also sells. So, I went to my local RS to see what I could find. They didn't have the iGo stuff, but did have enercell converters/adapters, etc.
As I was browsing, I found 2 12VDC car chargers (if you were curious, the "B" plug fits in the G-Tab). But then I noticed a "150W power inverter." It's a car plug that has 3 AC outlets and 1 USB outlet on it. This is ideal for me becuase I usually charge more than one thing when on long trips, GPS, Zune, NDSi, DVD player, and now the G-Tablet. The issue I'm having is that the back of the package said that it's output was 5VDC, typical of most car adapters. I asked the girl that was working if my AC adapter for hte G-Tablet would do it's own conversion, making it's output 12VDC. She said that it would, and said that each device's AC adapter will convert as needed.
Now, my question, is this true? The charger device does have a fuse on it, and some reviews I read (after purchasing, I know) said that it's worked fine for laptops, DVD players, etc. The main complaint is the hum of the cooling fan that's built in.
I briefly tested it today, with my G-Tablet. The battery indicator said it was 100% charged (but we all know that isn't reliable) I didn't take it out of it's case ot see what color the charge light was, but the charge indicator idn't have the lightning bolt in it, indicating a charge.
Does anyone know if she was telling the truth, perhaps? It's a pretty sweet setup, being able ot use AC adapters for all of my devices in the car, if it works as advertised, anyway. I just couldn't imagine why they would create a charger that has 3 5VDC AC outlets on it...
TJEvans said:
I asked the girl that was working if my AC adapter for hte G-Tablet would do it's own conversion, making it's output 12VDC. She said that it would, and said that each device's AC adapter will convert as needed.
Now, my question, is this true?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
of course not, how can someone who works in an electronics shop says so ?!
The 5VDC on the package is most probably the output of the USB port on the inverter.
The inverter should output 110 (or 220v) AC @ 50/60 hz, else you wont be able to use your wall plug adapters.
True the GTab adapter will output the proper voltage (12v DC 2A), but its input must be 110v (220v) AC.
My advice is not to use inverters for small hand helds : GTab, GPS, MP3 players .. etc.
Instead, use compatible car adapters, if you need more than one, get a splitter for your socket.
By the way, here is a compatible (and cheap) car adapter for the GTab: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Car-Charger-Koda...ccessories&hash=item51998a1f04#ht_1399wt_1341
Things may be different in Canada, but here in Pittsburgh, PA, just because somebody works at a certain store, doesn't necessarily mean that they know anything about the items they carry.
we actually have a car power splitter, it worked fine in our Honda Element (that the wife hit a deer with) but the Scion XB we have doesn't have much room between the outlet and the shifter lever, so the splitter doesn't quite fit that well. It is adjustable, but we haven't been able to find a position that works.
In fact, we have a car to double USB port adapter right now, that we are powering the GPS and Zune with, even with just the 2 USB cables plugged into it, it's tight.
aasoror said:
of course not, how can someone who works in an electronics shop says so ?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip - bought one!
FWIW, I'm pretty sure the 'girl in the shop' was simply saying that if you plug your 115/220VAC adapter into the inverter, the adapter will produce whatever it produces when plugged into a wall receptacle, which indeed it should so long as the inverter can produce 24W - and she was just following standard retail practice: 'sell what ya got', and the store *had* an inverter.
Seems like an overly complex way to get 12VDC out of a (nominally) 12VDC system when all you probably need is a regulator.
Another option:
http://www.amazon.com/charger-adapt...OQLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1307712365&sr=8-1
Only one review, but it's a positive one.
TJEvans said:
Things may be different in Canada, but here in Pittsburgh, PA, just because somebody works at a certain store, doesn't necessarily mean that they know anything about the items they carry.
we actually have a car power splitter, it worked fine in our Honda Element (that the wife hit a deer with) but the Scion XB we have doesn't have much room between the outlet and the shifter lever, so the splitter doesn't quite fit that well. It is adjustable, but we haven't been able to find a position that works.
In fact, we have a car to double USB port adapter right now, that we are powering the GPS and Zune with, even with just the 2 USB cables plugged into it, it's tight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I had my Scion xA, there were two power ports. One as part of the dash, the other was between the two front seats... the xB doesn't have this?
5V won't work. The power management chip is designed to handle 9 to 18V, but any car charger that is 12V out and fits will be fine.
Go to Radio Shack and buy the coiled Universal Accessory Charger. Its regulated 12V dc @ 2Mah.
Mine has been working excellent for months, although i can hear a high pitched sqeel in my audio system when the charger is on with no audio playing. I attribute this to a ground issue, not the charger...
Sent from my G Harmony v2.4 using XDA Premium App
Seems the OP answered his question but I think pointing out a couple of things may be helpful to others.
Haven't met anyone working RS that I thought was stupid but almost none know anything about the electronic components I buy. To think they have vast knowledge of and experience with electrictronics isn't logical.
Most things work with inverters but not all. I have some kind of a power supply, don't recall what, that says not to use it with an inverter. It's true you get 110(110,115,117,120) depending on how it's measured(min,avg,rms or max)) volts out of your home receptical but it's a sine wave. The ouput of a consumer inverter is a square wave.Square waves can cause noise or even overheating in some devices.
The other thing is that to get 110 volts the inverter draws 10X the output current to convert it. With a 20 amp fuse on you cars outlet that means your limited to ~2 amps for your devices.The vehicles system is ~13.5V so that's 27W. If you look at big inverters you'll notice they have battery clamps. 3 AC outlets from a cigarette lighter outlet is way optomistic.
An inverter may be a good choice for occasional use but probably better to keep everthing DC otherwise.
Make sure the inverter shuts itself off if the cars vehicle voltage gets low(i.e.when it isn't running). You could end up with a dead battery or even a damaged one.
rbrainard said:
Mine has been working excellent for months, although i can hear a high pitched sqeel in my audio system when the charger is on with no audio playing. I attribute this to a ground issue, not the charger...
Kind of nitpicking but cars are not grounded. Ground is literally the electrical potential of the Earth. A bad connection on the power or common(chassis) can cause noise but a sqeal is unlikely. The squeal is almost definately the inverter.
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h3llphyre said:
When I had my Scion xA, there were two power ports. One as part of the dash, the other was between the two front seats... the xB doesn't have this?
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Click to collapse
It's an earlier XB (2006) and only has the one outlet. When the car is in park, the shifter handle is literally about 5 inches away from the outlet. Having the double outlet plugged in, and angled up (adjustable) will allow some room, but then you are unable to grab the shifter.
I'll be driving to DC next Thursday, and wanted a way to power the GPS, G-Tab, e-cig battery charger, and whatever else my son decides to bring with us (NDSi, DVD player, his iPod touch, etc.)
To JJJustmee: The device does shut off when the car is off, so I'm good there. Also, the inverter itself has a fuse on it, so I assume that if overloaded, then the fuse will give on it, before it effects anything on the car. I don't necessarily plan on running all devices at the same time, more like, run the G-Tablet unplugged until the battery decides to start draining really low. The GPS will be running the entire time. Everything else may be charged for a bit, while other devices are no plugged in. I liked the design of this, becuase the car lighter plug is rather short, since there is a 3 foot wire leading to the AC/USB outlets, like a surge protector. It takes up very little room near the car outlet area. The other options that people posted will not work becuase of the space limitations. I could, and have (in the element) use the outlet splitter, then one double USB outlet, to be able ot handle 3 devices at once, but then we're talking about at least 7-8 inches of plastic pluggs sticking out, and into my shift lever...
JJJustMee said:
Seems the OP answered his question but I think pointing out a couple of things may be helpful to others.
Haven't met anyone working RS that I thought was stupid but almost none know anything about the electronic components I buy. To think they have vast knowledge of and experience with electrictronics isn't logical.
Most things work with inverters but not all. I have some kind of a power supply, don't recall what, that says not to use it with an inverter. It's true you get 110(110,115,117,120) depending on how it's measured(min,avg,rms or max)) volts out of your home receptical but it's a sine wave. The ouput of a consumer inverter is a square wave.Square waves can cause noise or even overheating in some devices.
The other thing is that to get 110 volts the inverter draws 10X the output current to convert it. With a 20 amp fuse on you cars outlet that means your limited to ~2 amps for your devices.The vehicles system is ~13.5V so that's 27W. If you look at big inverters you'll notice they have battery clamps. 3 AC outlets from a cigarette lighter outlet is way optomistic.
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What you're saying isn't quite true. Min, Avg, RMS, or Max are not accurate figures that you can toss out without testing. The Max voltage of a 120v system is 177v, The Root means square (RMS) would be the nominal voltage or 120v. Regardless, when you say it draws 27w you're doing the conversion incorrectly. The only way to change from one nominal voltage to another is via the resistance. So you max can draw 20A at 12v (240w), or 2A at 120V (or 240w ish) via and inverter (assuming your inverter is sized accordingly).
baenap said:
What you're saying isn't quite true. Min, Avg, RMS, or Max are not accurate figures that you can toss out without testing. The Max voltage of a 120v system is 177v, The Root means square (RMS) would be the nominal voltage or 120v. Regardless, when you say it draws 27w you're doing the conversion incorrectly. The only way to change from one nominal voltage to another is via the resistance. So you max can draw 20A at 12v (240w), or 2A at 120V (or 240w ish) via and inverter (assuming your inverter is sized accordingly).
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Said it for me.
If it turns off as soon as you turn the key off it means the outlet is switched. Will protect the battery but also means it can't be used for anythihng while the car is off. Good or bad depending on usage. What I was talking about is the device being able to shut off when battery voltage goes below, say, 11.6v. Fuse and circuit breakers only protect from too high of an amperage draw. If your system wasn't switched it could still dran the battery. Like if the inverter was left on overnight/weekend.
Sounds like what you're talking about could be ok for a trip. Use the USB as much as possible. Lots more effeceint than the inverter. If you actually mean fuse, get extra. If it's a circuit breaker you'll be good to see what does and doesn't work.
Found one on ebay
Found one here
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320690673489#ht_4544wt_937
Just ordered it about $12:00 US delivered. I will let you know how it goeswhen I get in about two weeks.
Igo told me a week ago, that they don't yet have a tip for the Gtab/Zpad but expect to do so by the end of the month
Spec
Here you are some pics of Malata official Car adapter. Maybe you can find some thing to help.
Car charger
Just ordered this from Amazon. (can't link yet - crap) so "30W DC/DC Regulated Adaptor for DVD" do your own search
13.34 shipped. Many more bucks directly from batteryspace
Will post again after I test it.
more info: it comes with two tips, neither of which fit the gtab. I had a proper size tip in our tool box so will check voltages tomorrow.
This has better 12V DC regulation than the oem ac charger.
Guys
YOU DO NOT NEED AN INVERTER TO CHARGE YOUR G_TAB IN THE CAR.
ANY 12VDC (output) charger will work. They are a dime a dozen if you know where to look. Just make sure the tip fits, and is tip positive (symbol will look something like this)
12VDC @1A
(-)-C-(+) with a dot INSIDE the "C" that is connected to the (+)
The power supply controller will work down to 9V and up to 18, which is fine for the 10 to 14V you'll get from a car adapter. Just make sure it isn't a step down.
They should be like $5. You might have to bust out the soldering skills though if you can't find the right tip.
Hi,
I plan to disappear into the woods and come back out when I've finished my thesis (more or less). So I'm interested in buying a solar panel to use with my transformer and since people here seem pretty knowledgeable about charging the transformer I thought I would run it by you guys to make sure I do not miss something important.
I've gathered so far that I will need at least an 11v panel.
Also, it seems I need USB 3.0 to charge by USB. Is this correct?
And if I can't get USB 3.0 I will have to modify a 2.0 wire or plug or whatever... I prefer to avoid this
What should I go for in terms og Watts?
Would it be reccommendable to buy a panel with a battery to get a more even current?
Recommandations would be great!
Wow, I thought I was the only one that even remotely cared about this!
I have a Goal0 Nomad 7m. It's 12v, and I have had no luck getting it to charge my TF. Do you think it might be because of the USB 3.0 requirement?
Great that I'm not alone! Too bad that it doesn't work though...
I got the thing about USB 3.0 from this thread;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321
reading it again I noticed this line;
"The Asus charger does need a 3.0 cable extension to work. But with a DIY charger you don't need USB 3.0 cables or connectors."
So I'm not really sure if it makes a difference whether you use USB 2.0 or 3.0.
Anyway the specs for your Nomad says that it's 5v for USB output and 12v for DC output so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't work with the transformer.
Miki T. said:
Great that I'm not alone! Too bad that it doesn't work though...
I got the thing about USB 3.0 from this thread;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321
reading it again I noticed this line;
"The Asus charger does need a 3.0 cable extension to work. But with a DIY charger you don't need USB 3.0 cables or connectors."
So I'm not really sure if it makes a difference whether you use USB 2.0 or 3.0.
Anyway the specs for your Nomad says that it's 5v for USB output and 12v for DC output so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't work with the transformer.
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You're right!...that actually means there's options. Shouldn't something like this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inve...=UTF8&coliid=IUJZFD56YRM5K&colid=HQA2VAAM7MXY
I think I'm gonna have to order this, and give it a shot. I already have the panel & the DC jack, so I might as well.
Hey nice find! It seems like it should work, though don't take my word for it. I'm really ignorant of this stuff which is why I started the thread to begin with In any case $22 for a charger sounds fairly cheap.
Let me know if it works or not!
Solar panels that put out more than 28W (5V, 2A = 10W + 15V, 1.2A = 18W) would be enough, but then you'd likely want to run it through an inverter to get 110v AC, then the ASUS charger.
Until and unless ASUS comes out with a car charger that would work with the dock, running an inverter to generate an AC signal, then running it through the AC adapter will be the way to go.
Figuring in efficiency losses, you'll probably want 50-75W worth of solar panels for this to work. You can also use a 12v battery as a ballast.
FrayAdjacent said:
Solar panels that put out more than 28W (5V, 2A = 10W + 15V, 1.2A = 18W) would be enough, but then you'd likely want to run it through an inverter to get 110v AC, then the ASUS charger.
Until and unless ASUS comes out with a car charger that would work with the dock, running an inverter to generate an AC signal, then running it through the AC adapter will be the way to go.
Figuring in efficiency losses, you'll probably want 50-75W worth of solar panels for this to work. You can also use a 12v battery as a ballast.
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Click to collapse
You don't need 5V and 12V, only 12V. The Asus charger only puts out 5V for non-transformer devices. Don't introduce all the loss from the 110V converter, just charge a 12V battery with a panel(the Asus will draw 18 watts at full charge), then charge the transformer from the battery. Just get a usb extender, cut it, and hook negative to pin 4 and positive to pin 1. I would recommend a 5 Ohm resistor to limit amperage, but it isn't necessary.
I'd like to hear how it works out.
I was considering putting some flexible solar panels on the back of the transformer. But with the dock, I've got more than enough power for my needs. Plus, the back of the transformer won't get that much sunlight.
I'm now moving on to trying to put solar panels on the back of my cellphone (Huawei U8800). It's a great phone, and the battery lasts all day, so long as I don't play too many games.
One thing you might want to consider is an external battery pack. They are pretty cheap here in China, and have huge batteries in them. They even have some with built in solar panels. I'm sure you could find one that could recharge the Transformer. Then you could have the battery pack in the sun charging via the solar panel, and you sitting in the shade with the transformer. At night plug the battery up to the transformer to let it charge while you sleep. The transformer with dock should have more than enough battery life to last all day.
If I come across any useful information during my research, I'll let you know.
Miki T. said:
Hey nice find! It seems like it should work, though don't take my word for it. I'm really ignorant of this stuff which is why I started the thread to begin with In any case $22 for a charger sounds fairly cheap.
Let me know if it works or not!
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I bought it! ...and it will be here this afternoon. Thanks to Amazon Prime local delivery .
I'll let you know how/if it works out.
philburkhardt said:
I bought it! ...and it will be here this afternoon. Thanks to Amazon Prime local delivery .
I'll let you know how/if it works out.
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Stuff like that is great for the car, but you're gonna lose SO much efficiency through it, then even more loss from the Asus charger plugged into it. A 15W solar panel should be enough to charge the TF directly. Using an inverter with the asus charger, you'll probably need 50-100W. Just FYI.
msticninja said:
Stuff like that is great for the car, but you're gonna lose SO much efficiency through it, then even more loss from the Asus charger plugged into it. A 15W solar panel should be enough to charge the TF directly. Using an inverter with the asus charger, you'll probably need 50-100W. Just FYI.
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Yup, you're right. No go on charging the TF. Like you said, it will be great for charging things in the car. Just not off my 12W solar panel. I think I'm gonna have to upgrade my panel .
philburkhardt said:
Yup, you're right. No go on charging the TF. Like you said, it will be great for charging things in the car. Just not off my 12W solar panel. I think I'm gonna have to upgrade my panel .
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The real joy of the TF is that it charges directly from 12 volts, so, assuming you have a 12 volt 12W panel, you should go get a 12 volt battery, 4AH(amp-hour) at least. It will be about the size of an old 6 volt lantern battery. Hook the panel to the battery to charge the battery, hook a female usb port to the battery, and hook the TF directly to the female usb port. You'll probably be able to get through a whole night on a 4AH battery + the TFs battery.
Great! Lots of useful replies... thanks a lot!
I plan on not using the adapter and use a USB extender the way msticninja wrote, since I don't want to carry or pay for something that delivers 50-100W.
I think I've found the panel I am going to buy. I cannot include outside links until I've posted 8 messages, but you can easily find it by googling "Portable 9x 2.5 W Solar Panel". So 22.5 Watt... that should suffice. That's at 18v * 1.25a.
It seems that all the solutions that comes with a battery are all quite pricey, but then I don't really need some fancy battery do I? Some do-it-yourself solution should be fine as long as the battery is rechargeable, 4AH("at least") and 12v right?
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
By the way, is the battery an absolute necessity or is that only if I want to charge during the evening/night?
What I hope to be able to do is; be away from mains for about one week at a time, and use my laptop, say, 8 hours a day. I hope this will be enough...
Miki T. said:
That's at 18v * 1.25a.
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
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The Asus charger will put out 15V at most, as marked on the charger itself. I don't think I'd use anything higher than 12V into the tablet/dock. You'd probably want to use some kind of voltage regulator to drop the 18V to 12V.
Without knowing the internal workings of the dock/tablet, I can't really comment more than that.
Miki T. said:
Great! Lots of useful replies... thanks a lot!
I plan on not using the adapter and use a USB extender the way msticninja wrote, since I don't want to carry or pay for something that delivers 50-100W.
I think I've found the panel I am going to buy. I cannot include outside links until I've posted 8 messages, but you can easily find it by googling "Portable 9x 2.5 W Solar Panel". So 22.5 Watt... that should suffice. That's at 18v * 1.25a.
It seems that all the solutions that comes with a battery are all quite pricey, but then I don't really need some fancy battery do I? Some do-it-yourself solution should be fine as long as the battery is rechargeable, 4AH("at least") and 12v right?
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
By the way, is the battery an absolute necessity or is that only if I want to charge during the evening/night?
What I hope to be able to do is; be away from mains for about one week at a time, and use my laptop, say, 8 hours a day. I hope this will be enough...
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Click to collapse
You will need some sort of voltage regulation to maintain 12V. That's pretty much a requirement for any solar charging system. Panels themselves do not usually have regulation, so the output voltage of the panel is a function of the amount of light the panel is receiving.
This is a really quick search, but this satisfies all the requirements for what you need, and it's only $20:
http://www.amazon.com/Ramsond-SunShield-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B0031FQ1S6
Feel free to search for alternatives, but use that as your starting point for searching.
Another quick search to give you an idea what you're looking for as far as batteries:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=12v+4ah+battery&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15393345737619657558&sa=X&ei=lq5MTsCGGMSCsgLgivmCBw&ved=0CHIQ8wIwAA
If I made something for myself, I'd use Lithium Ion cells and use a smart lipo charger to regulate the solar panel output, but it needs more research, and will cost more.
This will be interesting!
I've ordered the parts - the panel I mentioned, the Ramsond SunShield 12V 8A Solar Charge Controller Regulator that msticninja suggested and a Super Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V 6800mAh. I ordered the panel and the battery off of sunsky. They seem to have very fair prices.
All the parts came to a total of $164, shipping included. Compared to complete sets with the same specs I'd say that's a really good deal, provided I make it work
I'll let you know!
Miki T. said:
This will be interesting!
I've ordered the parts - the panel I mentioned, the Ramsond SunShield 12V 8A Solar Charge Controller Regulator that msticninja suggested and a Super Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V 6800mAh. I ordered the panel and the battery off of sunsky. They seem to have very fair prices.
All the parts came to a total of $164, shipping included. Compared to complete sets with the same specs I'd say that's a really good deal, provided I make it work
I'll let you know!
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Give me a link to that Li-ion battery. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, you'll need to get a lipo charger instead of/in addition to the Ramsond regulator. I'll check it out for you.
EDIT: If it's this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-6800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion-Battery-/150530536976
it's hard to say, but I think it has it's own charging circuit, because the wall wart included with it doesn't look like a lithium charger. But it does have a charge finished light, so, if the light stays on when the battery isn't plugged in, you should be okay. If the green light only turns on when a fully charged battery is connected, then you might not be fine. Confirm what you're getting by posting a link, and I'll try to make sure. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, the battery will explode in a fireball.
EDIT2: This one has it's own charging circuit, and it sounds like it's what's inside the other one I linked, so you should be okay if it's either of these.
http://www.lunershop.com/product_info.php?language=en¤cy=USD&products_id=2566
Just wondering if something like this would help.
http://www.ioffer.com/i/solar-battery-panel-usb-charger-for-cell-phone-mp3-mp4-147450373?source=eisi
I have no understanding of electricity, except the basic 4th grade stuff. This is a cool project thought. I'm planning on making a 55 paracord strap that will attach to my case and fit like a messenger bag. Having solar panels to charge it and a paracord strap would make the TF a nice camping device
SwiftLegend said:
Just wondering if something like this would help.
http://www.ioffer.com/i/solar-battery-panel-usb-charger-for-cell-phone-mp3-mp4-147450373?source=eisi
I have no understanding of electricity, except the basic 4th grade stuff. This is a cool project thought. I'm planning on making a 55 paracord strap that will attach to my case and fit like a messenger bag. Having solar panels to charge it and a paracord strap would make the TF a nice camping device
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Click to collapse
Nope, as discussed before, the TF uses 11-15V to charge, and normal USB chargers/backup batteries only put out 5V.
msticninja said:
Give me a link to that Li-ion battery. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, you'll need to get a lipo charger instead of/in addition to the Ramsond regulator. I'll check it out for you.
EDIT: If it's this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-6800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion-Battery-/150530536976
it's hard to say, but I think it has it's own charging circuit, because the wall wart included with it doesn't look like a lithium charger. But it does have a charge finished light, so, if the light stays on when the battery isn't plugged in, you should be okay. If the green light only turns on when a fully charged battery is connected, then you might not be fine. Confirm what you're getting by posting a link, and I'll try to make sure. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, the battery will explode in a fireball.
EDIT2: This one has it's own charging circuit, and it sounds like it's what's inside the other one I linked, so you should be okay if it's either of these.
http://www.lunershop.com/product_info.php?language=en¤cy=USD&products_id=2566
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Fireballs are serious business...
The one I ordered is the blue one. I can't really confirm with a link since I cannot post external links until 8 posts but there shouldn't be any mistake. And it does say the following about it;
With its multi-protective device, the inner circuit pervents the box from over-recharging or over-discharging.so it should be safe I think...
I just bought two sets of SONICable,The World's Most Advanced Charging Cable, for $49.00. Supposedly, they will increase you charging speed by 2x. It's a crowdfund project, and the cables will supposedly be delivered in March 2015.
I'm not affiliated with the project. I only think it sounds like an exciting product and decided informing the community about it.
Does it work on the same principle as this video for doubling your WiFi speed?
Code:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lG5cEik2ABY
Well while surely there are better and worse cables, doesn't charging speed depends on the output of the wall piece and the charging circuitry?
On bad cables i get at most 1 Amp to charge the tablet, but with the original samsung cable i do get around 2 amps which is the designed output of the wall piece.
Maybe it works like the "Fast Charge" mode on custom kernels.
Charging is limited by 3 factors
1. Stock charger 5 Volts, then most importantly is the Amps - 2A for typical Samsung charger so going faster then this is unlikely with the stock charger, and tablets can already charge at 1890mA so probably 90% of its rated current.
2. Cable quality and length most Samsung cables are already high-quality and have copper wires with two bigger wires for the 5v and Ground line and they are short length (3-6ft) so they can easily handle 2A output (probably higher).
3. Probably the most important is the phone / tablet, usually they have several circuitry and software (kernel) protections to limit the charging speed for several reasons since lithium-ion / poly are extremely dangerous if they are overcharged or overheated or otherwise improperly charged (you can see videos of people overcharging lithium battery's then tapping them causing a huge fireball )
So it is very unlikely for a cable to achieve better charging speed, it probably just has the Data + - pins shorted to tell the charger / phone to charge at full speed (though this is unnecessary nowadays since most chargers already do this, but it could be beneficial for older phones / tablets)
arcadia2uk said:
I just bought two sets of SONICable,The World's Most Advanced Charging Cable, for $49.00. Supposedly, they will increase you charging speed by 2x. It's a crowdfund project, and the cables will supposedly be delivered in March 2015.
I'm not affiliated with the project. I only think it sounds like an exciting product and decided informing the community about it.
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Click to collapse
You seriously spent $49 on a usb lead
From the link you supplied:
'When the switch is ON: All of the power is focused on charging, sync/data is disabled'
What, like using a mains charger where there is no sync connection (or buying a cheap charging cable where the data pins aren't connected)
Hes either a bot or someone paid to advertise that "product". It did remind me of "double your network speed" video from youtube where dude wraps one ethernet cable with another one and doubles his internet speed.
I saw this post a while back, and it was immediately clear to me that it was a scam. I can't BELIEVE that they actually raised over $400k on this thing. Indiegogo seems like it's becoming a scammer's conduit to gullible/uninformed buyers.
When did commercial posts get so frequent in here?
ssmr2t said:
When did commercial posts get so frequent in here?
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Click to collapse
Apparently, there's a difference between buying a sd-card on amazon, or a glass protector on amazon compared with a pair of cables on Indiegogo. Although, I can't really see the difference.
Anyway, if and when I receive the cables I will let you know how it worked out.
Did you get your cables yet? Your OP says they were due in March 2015
Edit: I like this better http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...9QNSmGzx8GP_qMGpQ&sig2=O-5lUKoBFozTFf-A2spM6A
ssmr2t said:
Did you get your cables yet? Your OP says they were due in March 2015
Edit: I like this better http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...9QNSmGzx8GP_qMGpQ&sig2=O-5lUKoBFozTFf-A2spM6A
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No news as of yet, who knows maybe it is as suggested a hoax. But, as I'm enjoying gadgets I'll take the risk.
arcadia2uk said:
No news as of yet, who knows maybe it is as suggested a hoax. But, as I'm enjoying gadgets I'll take the risk.
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Click to collapse
Keep us posted! Im interested in the results.
I'll probably buy when the price goes down.
Seems like an interesting concept. I'd like to see the cable in real-world action. Assuming they actually make it to market, i'll buy when the price goes down.
Believe it, or not, but I actually received my cables last week. The charging speed is substantially improved, but definitely not 2x. However, I still haven't tried charging by connecting over the PC, where this might show up. Anyway, as a fan of gadgets I still satisfied with my purchase.
I'm glad your happy with your purchase.
Charging speed is limited by the circuitry in the tablet itself. There's a limit in the amount of amps it can pull from anything (charger/computer or any USB port). I have an extremely powerful charger so I'm sure I hit the max charging rate of my devices. This cable will not improve that. I'm also sure that it's actually charging faster and drawing more power than my original chargers as some devices act a bit weird when charged fast.
The "twice as fast" charging rate will be the exact same charging rate as you get from a "charge only" cable if (and only if) you connect it to a computer or another device that syncs data. In every other scenario you'll get the exact same charging rate.
Note that your computer typically has a USB port for charging that's capable of drawing more power than the standard 500 mA that USB 1 and 2 offer. (USB3 can draw 900 mA, up to 1500 mA if it's a charging port)
Keep in mind that the stock charger output is 5.3 volts.
Lower impedance cable helps.
Samsung stock cable is good enough, and PNY cable also does a good job.
You can have the same thing on eBay for $6 ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-smart-c...-Apple-Android-With-V-A-display-/141342314642
A charge only cable so you get maximum charge speed starts at only £5
http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/portapow-fast-charge-micro-usb-cable/
An choice of USB Charging adapter, but do you really need these?
http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/portapow-fast-charge-data-block-usb-adaptor/
John.
If you have 5 port 8 amp IQ charger, you can charge T520 faster.
ssmr2t said:
Did you get your cables yet? Your OP says they were due in March 2015
Edit: I like this better http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...9QNSmGzx8GP_qMGpQ&sig2=O-5lUKoBFozTFf-A2spM6A
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Click to collapse
Yes I got my cable, and the 2x works if you charge through your computers USB, as what the cable does is cutting off the communication to charge only. I saw a post at XDA that explain how to do this by yourself in about 5-10 min.