Related
I'm wondering if anyone has considered modding the housing on their Wizard to change the colour, etc?
I've been looking at using Plasti-Kote to spray my housing black. They reckon it adheres to most surfaces including plastic (although maybe not pre-painted plastic). I'm not quite sure how smooth the finish will be. (If I fubar it I can buy a new housing for £40, although the missus wasn't impressed when I said so.)
If anyone else has done this, considered doing it, or has any other case mod ideas, let's hear about it!
Search for the thread for 'white wizard' pimp. that's nice.
Thanks for the pointer. Here's the thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=286863
That's pretty sweet. I'll take on board the advice to sand the housing first. I wondered if I'd just be able to paint directly over the top.
I think I would take my device apart too so I didn't have to worry about dust and paint getting somewhere it shouldn't.
Something else you could do and that I bet would look AWESOME would be to see if you could get it powder coated. I know there is a little shop up the road a few miles that has told me they would powder coat something in whatever color I wanted. Could allow for some interesting finishes. I'm picturing maybe some sort of glossy metallic finish or something.
Avatar28 said:
Something else you could do and that I bet would look AWESOME would be to see if you could get it powder coated. I know there is a little shop up the road a few miles that has told me they would powder coat something in whatever color I wanted. Could allow for some interesting finishes. I'm picturing maybe some sort of glossy metallic finish or something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not familiar with powder coat. It looks like an interesting technique. According to this website you have to statically charge the item then bake the paint on?
I had also considered black with silver specks but ended up going for solid black in the end. (Maybe next time!)
* You can see my black wizard case mod here.
Usually when I buy RC car bodies they are Clear, you paint the inside to prevent scratching the paint, and it always looks great! Well I found this plastic case HERE Heck I am gonna order a couple and try a few different colors!!
I'd like a white wizard that's real glossy. I'd like the buttons to be white too, but I still want the buttons to display the letters and symbols. also i'm afraid the backlight wouldn't show through the keyboard. I think I have a delima huh?
You can use oven cleaner to strip the paint, just be sure to not leave it on very long or it will cause the top layer of plastic to shrink and crack. I haven't had to strip paint from plastic in a few years but I think it was about 30-40 minutes of soaking.
Regarding the powder coating, the piece to be coated is pretty much always metal because it must be baked in an oven.
Powder Coating wont work on plastic. It will just melt it within a few seconds of baking.
I just bought a wizard on ebay and also a separate case for it. My plan is to sand down the separate case and paint it with a matte black paint, I want to make it look like my macbook.
Yes so easy
See my Signature link PIMP My wizard and please post your jobs it will be nice see other jobs!!!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=427786
can someone help to open wizard's case with picture? all i can see 2 screws behind it which one of them is under stylus
I have a Wizard service manual but I can's seem to get it uploaded. If you know of another way to get it to you I will gladly send it along.
MDA or 8125 style?
On my signature see PIMP My Wizard link...???? it has a picture tutorial download it and check your screws maybe it shows right but,..... is for the Qtek 9100 or MDA Vario t-mobile design device.
Service manual:
http://rapidshare.com/files/164116696/HTC_Prodigy_Wizard-Service-Manual.pdf
After reading this and after having repaired my Wiz (came with a cracked screen to begin with) I'm going to take part of my next week (good to have vacation after all....) and use it to mod my Wizard's case. Well, hopefully if everything goes well, you'll see a pimped out Mod B_Edwa style here in a week...
Avatar28 said:
Something else you could do and that I bet would look AWESOME would be to see if you could get it powder coated. I know there is a little shop up the road a few miles that has told me they would powder coat something in whatever color I wanted. Could allow for some interesting finishes. I'm picturing maybe some sort of glossy metallic finish or something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that is very good!!!
today my at&t tilt2 accidently fell from my hands and got heavily scratched on the chrome shell (bezel) the bezel even got few small dents & & the chrome colour came out
so i wanted to ask how can i remove this bezel,as i thought to remove it sand it & then paint it chrome again
& also suggest me is my idea good or not
no rplys? atleast tell me hw can i remove those scratches & dents
i wanna know this too since i just dropped mine today and its a fairly small chip but i still get a little crazy over it
please help us out
Sorry for bad news but to remove the bezel you'll need to fully dissassemble your TP2. You'll have to dismantle the main housing to unscrew hinges. Once you separate the upper part with LCD you'll be able to open it, and then separate the bezel from LCD and digitizer. I've done it myself couple of times but be aware that is not a 5 minute job (especially if you're new to this). You'll need tools - small philips screwdriver, small star screwdriver an special plastic prying tool (couple of them, they get broken easily, you don't have to use them but you'll most likely scratch the phone). You can get tool sets on ebay. Word of advice - if only possible try not to separate LCD and digitizer. Once you get dust and/or fingerprints between them it's a HELL of a job to get rid of them.
Check out mike channon's site for dissassembly guide.
Good luck guys!
EDIT: Personally, I would rather try to do some touch-up repairs without opening the phone if possible.
touch up repairs like what? suggest me something specific
I want to replace my screen and bezel but don't mind stripping the whole phone down if thats what is needed.
Try this link http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pdacenter.ru%2Frazborka%2Fhtc_touch_pro2%2F&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
As mentioned by pjm77 this does not look easy, and chances are if your not very careful you could mess up your phone.
By touch up I mean trying to paint the damage to make it less visible. Can't really say if that's possible in your case - judge for yourself. Dissassembling the whole phone is by all means possible, I was able to do it several times and I'm just an enthusiast. Just bear in mind that unless you're really skillfull and experienced you end up with a little damage here and there (clips broken, scratches etc.), it's time consuming and there is a risk of serious damage. In the end you may just put a lot of effort into it and be a little disappointed with the final result. But maybe not, it's up to you. Whatever your decision is - good luck!
EDIT: To be more specific I'll give you the real life example of touch-up. I had an awful, long and deep scratch on the back of my LCD (you can see that black, metal part when you slide out the keyboard). I took the masking tape and precisely shaped it in a way that only the scratch was visible (I'd say less than 0,5 of mm wide). Then I took a black paint (originally for my mother's renault) and painted the scratch. Aftrer half an hour I removed the masking tape. The repair is not perfect in any way, the scratch is still there if you know where to look. But I just never noticed it again and simply forgot about it until today.
I used a touch up pen from Staples that has metallic ink. It was a Silver Pilot Pen with Fine Point tip. Like pjm said, touch up paint isn't going to make it look perfect, but the scuffs on the chrome bezel are less noticeable. The ink is a little lighter than the chrome but makes the black cuffs disappear and is nice because you can get small marks with the fine point. I think it was $2.99.
Home Made Kydex Car Mount
See second post for an updated version
A Chief Geek How-To I’ve worked Kydex in the past for conceal holsters and large knife sheaths and thought it would be an ideal foundation to make a custom made vehicle mount for my phone. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the stuff, Kydex is a thermoplastic, which is a fancy way of saying you can heat it and it becomes extremely pliable. Think of it as being a wet noodle in consistency when heated to about 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Typically things this easy to mold have extensive drawbacks as being susceptible to heat and cold, but this is not the case with Kydex, in fact it’s quite the opposite in that is highly resilient, can be reheated to rework a botched job, and does not become brittle as it is very impact resistant. It is implemented extensively in the firearm industry and likewise in the blade industry. Keep these qualities in mind as you read through, who knows what you can make with the stuff. Oh and if the above isn’t enough, a few more great things about Kydex is that it comes in lots of colors, can be dyed, it’s plentiful, and best it’s CHEAP. There are lots of sources for it, but I typically just grab a sheet off eBay. A sheet of 12x12x0.093 black Kydex T will run you about $15 shipped to your door. I chose the thick stuff this time, but as it turns out it wasn’t needed. The thicker you go, the harder it is to get precise folds. Think of folding poster board versus folding cardboard. I already have a request in for quote for a few sheets of 12”X12”x0.06 which will be a bit easier to work as it is the same as the stuff I have used for other projects in the past.
My mount will be made for the Samsung Galaxy Note AT&T Version, however these instructions can be easily modified to make a mount for just about anything you want. The reason for doing this instead of just buying one is that I use the Seidio Active case and there is no case specifically made to hold my phone. I am not a big fan of the generic one size fits most as they tend to break after a year of use whether it was $10 or $30. ProClip makes amazing mounts, however they are quite expensive. My goal is to make something comparable to a Proclip, but at a fraction of the price.
Now, For A Few Words Of Caution1.) Kydex is easy to work with, but easy to screw up if you aren’t careful. Pay attention and have a plan going into the project, especially if this is your first venture into molding plastics.
2.) Safety should be your number one concern. What’s it matter if you produce the best gadget holder known to man if you chopped a finger off or burned your house down in the process? I’m not exaggerating here, either of these can easily happen if you’re not paying attention to what you’re doing. Because it’s such a versatile product, your required tools can be as simple as a hacksaw and heat gun, or as complicated a variety of saws, presses, crimpers, rivet tools, and so on. But in any situation, you will be heating and cutting, both have great potential to teach stupid people lessons in caution. Everyone likes a good story about stupid people, but no one wants to be around or associated with that person. Heat guns stay very hot for awhile after they have been used. In the video I comment about laying my forearm across it. As I type this I am holding my right army up slightly because of the nice blister that formed last night. Be careful folks.
3.) Take things slow. Drawl out what you want then make a mock up out of poster board. Kydex is cheap only when you don’t go through 5 sheets trying to figure it out as you go and end up with a pile of scrap.
So let’s see if covered our bases. Be careful. Know what you’re doing. Don’t be “that guy”. Good, let’s get started here.
What You’ll Need:A Mold Of Your Device I will be doing a Samsung Galaxy Note. This is a large phone, but very simple in design. It has no bumps or dips or serious curves, just rounded corners. If you want to leave it in a case, take this into consideration. I will be using mine in a Seidio Active case, so I will be sure to make a mold reflecting these measurements, not those of the actual phone or else it won’t fit. There are different ways of going about this. You can wrap your device in saran wrap (cellophane) then make a mold, then fill said mold with plaster. This is a lot of work, but tends to get a dead on mold. However, I passed on this as purposely introducing liquid to a $700 device is not something I wanted to do. Choose your battles, as they say. I have opted to carve out a wooden mold as the simple flat on all sides design of my phone will make this easy. A phone such as a droid or Razr would have me thinking of the plaster method. This is quite simple, take measurements, find a block of wood that is close, and cut down to a close replica, but it doesn’t have to be perfect nor pretty, just the right size. You will be working with hot plastic, so the block of wood may serve other uses as you go.
FoamFoam is used to “squash” the pliable heated kydex onto it’s mold. This does two things. First, it protects you from 300 degree sheet of plastic, and secondly, and just as importantly, it presses the plastic down tightly on all the dips and curves. This is especially important when making a firearm holster. This is where the retention aspect comes into play. My past holsters are snug enough that I can turn them upside down and jiggle while holding the holster and it will stay in place, yet a firm upward tug snaps it free. This can be applied for the retention of anything, even a phone. If your mold is the appropriate dimensions and you make a nice snug mold, your phone wont go flying out of it when you hit a bump and wont be rattling around going down the highway. Foam is typically used when making a “sandwhich” mold where you are taking the mold and wrapping it in hot Kydex then squashing it with foam to get a nice tight fit. I won’t be utilizing this method so you will not see future references to it, I just though it would be worth mentioning as it may be handy if you alter these instructions for your own use.
Gloves
You want a good pair of heat resistant gloves. Use your noggin here. You want to keep from burning your hands, but still be able to manipulate the tools and plastic. A pair of welding gloves will likely to be overkill, but a thin set of knit gloves may not be adequate protection. I like using a pair of “Mechanix Wear” gloves. They are a tad thin, but if you don’t loiter you’ll be fine. Keep a clean rag handy for extra insulation when shaping the Kydex.
Heat
Typically, I like using the kitchen oven although this time with all the intricate and numerous folds, I will be using a heat gun. I am doing this project while my wife and kids go to her parents house for vacation for a week. She won’t even know what I’m up to. If you are a newlywed, or just haven’t traveled this road, be aware that wives do NOT like their husbands using their ovens and other kitchen assets as a shop tool. I learned this lesson when I baked enamel on a firearm for the first time. Since then I’ve learned my lesson…not to let her know when and what I’m doing.
You’ll be heating your Kydex to about 300-400 degrees Fahrenheit. You’ll want to keep a watchful eye on your Kydex, too hot or too long and you will burn it. Obviously heat guns are hot, the nose end where the heat blows out gets very hot and stays very hot. While doing this project, you will be concerned with the Kydex, be aware when you lay your heat gun not to burn something or someone. A decent cheap heat gun can be picked up at Harbor Freight, Lowes, or Northern Tool for $20-$40. You must be careful with these. If you choose to use an oven, it is advised to have a heat gun anyways as it allows you to fine tune your holster.
Cutting Tools
You’ll want a variety of tools at your disposal here. I used a table saw to make my initial two cuts removing the flat I was going to be working with from the rest of the plastic. You can also score the plastic with a box cutter and snap it. As mentioned, I went too thick so if you use thinner Kydex then you will find cutting it easier then I did. See the video for a better idea of what all was used. If you have access to a jig saw, band saw, or scroll saw then use that as it will yield far superior results and leave you with a lot mess clean up with a Dremel later.
Speaking of prettying it up, you’ll want some files or a Dremel to clean up the edges afterwards. You can even use your Dremel to cut if you feel comfortable doing so and have the right bits. But you’ll need to clean up some of your edges after cutting if they are sharp or jagged, but don’t go crazy, you may find yourself doing some detailed cutting and trimming after the molding process so don’t cut too tight of tolerances right off the bat.
Workshop Partner
This is a buddy that can help you out. These are generally easy to find. They will be there to hand you needed tools, open doors and move stuff out of the way as your moving with your heated plastic. They also serve a roll as reminding you not to do something stupid inadvertently. A single 12”x12” sheet of Kydex is more than enough to do 2 small projects. If your buddy has the same phone, make him one for $10 and recoup some costs of materials or trade him for a 12 pack of your favorite brew.
Getting Started Ok, let’s get started. Have your drawling ready and handy, just in case you need to reference it. Be sure that you have made a poster board mock up first. This will verify that your mold is right in comparison to your phone and when you unfold/untape your mock up back into flat form, it will then be a template for the cuts your about to do on your Kydex flat. You can now mark up your Kydex sheet with a carpenters pencil or other marking device in preparation for the cuts. On some projects you’ll want to leave excess material for fine tuning it later. Again, holsters are one of these as you will be test fitting. You can always trim a little more off, but can never put it back. For this project though, as it differs from the simple fold over and smush method used for holsters and sheaths, you won’t want much left over depending on your design as it may be difficult to make all the folds if there is too much in the way. You can always stop the folding, let it cool, make some trims, heat back up with heat gun and continue on. Always error on the side of safety folks, always always always.
Using your chosen cutting method, cut out your Kydex flat that will be made into the mount. This is a step that you must use upmost caution, lobbing a finger off here will get blood all over youre soon to be mount. Also, keep in mind that saw blades remove material as they cut so cut on the outside of the template or you’ll come up short which could cause your phone to drop out. Check your template against your cut Kydex to be sure everything looks good. Now is a good time to make sure all your cuts are straight and squared, this will make for a more professional looking end product. The mount at this point will be known as a flat before it is bent.
Now get your work area prepped for work. I use a large wooden cutting board for my work as I will be doing this inside on a desk because it offers easy access to electrical hook up and great lighting which is essential. Have everything ready to go. Make sure the area is clean and clear of any grit, dust, dirt, and debris. Hot Kydex will pick these up and will be embedded for good, we don’t want that.
Heating Things Up Just like a real firearm, you must be sure of your target and what’s beyond it. Sounds silly right? Do you want to melt the finish on your dining room table, or possibly even ignite it those papers laying nearby? Better to be safe then explain to the wife on the phone why she hears sirens in the back ground.
You will begin by applying small amounts of heat at a time. Get a feel for the material and the amount of heat produced by your heat gun. You will see the Kydex go limp all of a sudden as it hits the right temperature and it won’t take long. Use smooth sweeping motions with the heat gun heating things evenly. Go slow at first and you will get a feel for how it all works and within 15 minutes you’ll have the hang of it. Once you get the correct angle, you will need to hold it there for atleast a minute to ensure it cools in the proper position. If, or actually when, you jack something up just stay calm. It’s an easy fix, just reheat and reshape. Detailed projects like this get reworked over and over to get them just right, sometimes days later I’ll reheat and tweak it just right. Do not trim anything unless you absolutely have to until you are done. Test fit with your mold as you go.
When you have your basic mount done, test fit your actual fit and see how it feels. At this point you will likely be reheating the sides to loosen it or tighten it up some to get just the right fix. Once satisfied it will be time to get the ol Dremel out and start smoothing out lines and making it look a little nicer. This is the point that I ensured the volume rocker and power button was easily accessible. Also figure out where you will be drilling your mounting holes. As mentioned in the video, I will be doing two sets of holes in order to give myself the option of horizontal and vertical options down the road.
Wrap Up Now is the time where you look over your end result. Take notes on what you like and what you wish you would have done differently. Do you make your folds square and wish they were rounded? Did you remove too much somewhere? Do you perhaps want to incorporate a plug like I mentioned in the video? 1 12x12x.06 should cost you under $10 to your door. That’s ATLEAST two mounts, so play around and see what you come up with. Then when your happy with your end result, take what you learned and make a guide and/or video, post it up here, and make the community better.
Link To Video
Photos all photos from this buld will be dumped into: www.photobucket.com/kydexmountproject
Select one's will be shown below
Preparing To Drawl Up The Cuts
Take Your Time And Be Sure Your Measurements Are Double Checked
Primary Cuts Made With Saw
I Heat The Flat In Toaster Oven To Make Cuts Easier And Smoother
Time To Start Heating And Folding!
Choose a Good Pair Of Gloves. Carpenters Pencil Is Great For Assisting With Tight Angles
Almost Done- Stay Tuned For Future Updates
Two Videos Are Awaiting Upload To Youtube And Will Be Made Available Tonight.
I Plan To Update This Thread As My Build Progresses. I Have Been Using Kydex For Years, But Never For Anything This Detailed, It's A Learning Experience For Me Too!
Don't Forget To Use The "Thanks" Button If This Has Helped You And Rate The Thread So It Gets Stickied! Feel Free To Ask Questions And Make SUggestions.
Mount 2.0 W/ ChiefClip
Holster 2.0 Now With ChiefClip
Part I – Required Supplies
Part II – Making The Holster
Part III – The Swivel
Part IV – The Vehicle Specific Bracket
Part V – Final Assembly
Part I
Required Supplies
Tools
Heatgun
Gloves
Cutting Utensils – Boxcutter is primary tool for thin stuff
Dremel – Used to clean up edges and smooth out lines
Marker/Pencil – Carpenters Pencil works perfectly
Small T Square or ruler (or something to make nice straight edges)
Materials:
6” X 12” X 0.060" Kydex
Swivel Mount
Quality Permanent Double Sided Tape (recommend 3M, but swivel mount I listed comes with enough to do the job)
Part II
Making The Holster
I finally got my second batch of sheets of Kydex in after what seemed like forever. The second eBay vendor was far slower than the first, but he was a friendly honest guy who apologized for the delays. I wouldn’t hesitate to use him again, but wouldn’t expect things to be as fast as the other vender, who did not carry the thinner Kydex at the time of the project. This thinner Kydex is far easier to work with, so I highly recommend 0.060 thickness of Kydex. The cutting was easier as I was able to heat it slightly with the heatgun then run a box cutter blade right through it, or you can score it with the box cutter then bend it and it breaks right apart. Way easier than using a saw and snips making lots of ugly cuts that needed to be fixed later. Creating the mount was done along the same lines above. I used the same template and everything. The main differences is that I rounded the sides that wrap around to hold the phone rather than trying to make the squared right angles. This makes for a nicer appearance and is far easier to make and adjust. These steps are very similiar to the previous post, so I’m going to use those photos to get us started, only difference at this point is the thickness of the plastic we’re working with.
1. Cut Kydex to dimensions needed for your design. My design called for measurements of (TBA). This can be done by either scoring with a razor/box cutter, or you can heat the area with your heat gun and use your box cutter to cut clean through the material. It’s up to you, both methods yield the same result.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
2. Remove cut outs to allow your folds to be made.
3. Using your heat gun, heat the edges and big your folds. This will likely take a few attempts so don’t get frustrated. I’m estimating that I did each of the folds atleast 2-4 times to get them just right. I ended up using a medium size ratchet handle to get the nice curved edges. Keep in mind the plastic is very hot, so wear gloves and have a rag handy for holding down these bends for a minute or so while they cool.
4. Test fit the bends and adjust as you go. You will get the feel for the heat gun and learn how much heat is needed to make minor adjustments and when you need to heat the SOB all the way and make it flat to start from scratch again.
5. Use your Dremel to clean up all the edges of your straight line and round the top and make it look a little more refined and finished.
6. Once your happy with the fit and function of your holster, set it aside. You can always make adjustments to it later also if you’re not sure about something you want to do like trying to flatten out a side or what not.
Note: On this holster I plan to secure a 90 degree micro USB cable in to make for a “Dock” so I have one less cable to fiddle with. I’ll have more on this later once I pick up some epoxy and do a few trial and errors.
Total Time: 15-60 Minutes Depending On Luck/Skill/And Pickiness
Part III
Swivel Mount
I ordered my swivel mounts from ebay with a hope I could manage to do something with them. As it turns out, they were exactly what I needed and at $6 w/ free shipping you can't beat it. These are adjustable by turning a nut between the two pieces which is a common design on many GPS mounts, which is what this was intended for. This mount will allow you to rotate the mount to landscape or portrait mode. It will also allow you to tilt it towards you.
As you can see in the above photo, it does have a raised clip of some sorts on it. This is easily removed in a variety of ways. I chose to heat it up a little with the heat gun and lob it right off.
I then grabbed the Dremel and used it to grind down the remaining stump and the raised lines down and roughen up the surface overall giving the double sided tape a better surface to adhere to.
The swivel came with double sided tape on one side (side without nub) and a second piece that was unused, along with some odds and ends that you wont need. I left the applied piece where it was and only used my trusty 3M tape on the ground down side. So far it’s been in my truck for a week and it’s been fine so you can probably get away with using the included tape. If it fails, just scrape off and replace with 3M, but I doubt you’ll have issues with it.
Now set this aside and move onto the 3rd piece of this three piece mount.
Total Time: Approx 5-10 Minutes
Part IV
Vehicle Specific Mount, AKA ChiefClip
I like how ProClip approached the mounting solutions by making highly customized mounting options without a bunch of crazy drilling. I just did not have the $100 for the complete mount. I am sure they are worth every penny, but you have to have those spare pennies to find out. I don’t consider this a knock-off as the only thing I really copy is putting plastic between the molding cracks. They contour their brackets and use a slightly different approach then what I took by utilizing screws and such for mating the parts.
I did everything on the cheap for this project because the point of it all was that I wanted a quality rock solid mount without paying out the rear for a proclip and one that would fit my phone in my preferred case without using a “one size fits all” generic that, in my experience, failes after 6-12 months. A side effect of using this Kydex is that it's re-moldable, so if you get a different phone down the road, there's a good chance you can reheat and reform this to fit your next phone so long as it’s the similar or smaller dimensions.
Making this mount was surprisingly easy, it just took lots of test fitting and minor adjustments to get it just right. Watching ProClips installation video gives you an idea how it works and it’s quite simple. It simply slips into the gaps in the dash molding. This 0.06 Kydex proved to be the perfect thickness to provide a tight, but workable fit. Follow these easy steps for a similar fitting.
1. Test thickness of Kydex with your gaps using a scrap piece you cut out earlier when you made the holster part. If its somewhat difficult to get into the cracks, but once in doesn't cause any ill effects to your dash but stays put rather well, then you're good to continue. I am using the thinnest available. If this is still too thick, consider that you can still use your Dremel to thin it out some. If you go this route, do so very slowly as Dremels tend to remove plastic pretty quickly if you’re not cautious. Even at proper thicknesses it can be difficult to get into the gaps, gently using something to spread this gap will help, I imaging if you had a plastic screwdriver ( to avoid damaging anything) would work well.
2. Measure gap between two panels. See ProClips site for ideas of where to place it for your situation, but I recommend holding your phone there and thinking about this first. Is it viewable? Reachable? Does it block anything you may need such as vents or buttons? Can your turn your wheel without hitting it? Does it obstruct view to anything such as gauges or clocks? Using a ProClip location helps you get an idea what already works for others.
3. Cut a flat strip of Kydex to span this cap, plus and inch or so extra to insert into gaps, more if it'll fit. I cut extra that I knew wouldn’t fit then trimmed it later once I got a solid idea where exactly it was going elevation wise and how deep I could go.
4. Heat and bend one side, rough side out (towards you not dash, this is important)
5. Test fit it in car. Mark approximate location of next bend.
6. Bend second fold. If you’re lucky it'll go right in with a little persuasion. I had to heat and adjust a couple times.
7. Test to make sure it’s nice and snug and not going anywhere. I am covering one of the vents for my design, but in the summer I have the windows down and winter prefer the heat on my feet, so this won’t likely bother me much.
8. Ensure rough side of Kydex is indeed out (will explain later)
Total time, 20-30 minutes.
Part V.
Final Assembly
1. With the ChiefClip in place, peel the backing top from swivel and press onto it. The reason for the textured side out is to give a great surface to adhere to. Press long and hard to make sure it’s nice and secure.
2. Peel the second strip off and press your holster onto it. Again press long and hard. Now is not the time to be in a hurry and have your phone drop to the floor later.
3. Let it sit for about 15-20 minutes for the tapes glue to “cure” and get a nice solid bond to all the parts before test driving it.
Links:
Kydex:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370596885506...84.m1439.l2649
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120858959138...84.m1439.l2649
Swivel Bracket:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350551742207...84.m1439.l2649
90 Degree angled cablehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/390403412667...84.m1439.l2649
Very nice, thanks for posting. This looks like a fun DIY to take on.
Video added.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk
New material added for the 2.0 version.
-Thinner, easier to work plastic
-Complete 3 piece set up (holster, swivel, mount)
-More pics
Feedback is appreciated.
That's one way to do it. :thumbsup:
Consider making the USB hidden and in the mount so it goes in the port when you dock the phone? That's pretty much the only thing I'd change.
BTW what was the total price for the three pieces? IYDMMA
BlkSquad said:
That's one way to do it. :thumbsup:
Consider making the USB hidden and in the mount so it goes in the port when you dock the phone? That's pretty much the only thing I'd change.
BTW what was the total price for the three pieces? IYDMMA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already working on that:
Chief Geek said:
Note: On this holster I plan to secure a 90 degree micro USB cable in to make for a “Dock” so I have one less cable to fiddle with. I’ll have more on this later once I pick up some epoxy and do a few trial and errors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the cable on hand, but salvaged the "dock" guts from my SGS Vibrant desk dock. Havnt decided which to use. the 90 degree is one hell of a snug cable and may be difficult to get phone to drop right onto it.
Total Price is almost nothing if you have tools.
$10 Kydex
$6 swivel
You have enough kydex in that $10 piece to make two holsters and clips. Very cheap project.
I had an amazon gift card to use up, and we're planning a road trip to a waterpark so I decided to use the gift card to try and find a waterproof/water-resistant solution for my lte. I wasn't going swimming with these, but I did want to protect my phone from the the occasional dunk or splash, and I didn't trust a ziplock bag to do the job. I also didn't want to spend a lot (otherwise I would have gotten the overboard case).
I ended up ordering the following cases;
BestDealUSA Waterproof Underwater Pouch Dry Bag Pack Case Cover for Cell Phone PDA Blue - $2.96
Waterproof Case for Apple iPhone 4, 4S - Also Works with iPod Touch, iPhone 3G, 3GS, & Other Smartphones - IPX8 Certified to 100 Feet - $4.57
Universal Waterproof Bag Case for Cell Phone / PDA, Blue - $0.01
Universal Waterproof Bag Case for Cell Phone / PDA, Black - $1.92
BestDealUSA Waterproof Underwater Pouch Dry Bag Pack Case Cover for Cell Phone PDA Blue
The plastic material seems strong on this case, and the seal seems like it would do a good job to keep the moisture out. The evo slides in and out easily, even with a tpu case, although it does it need to go in upside down if you want to take pictures - otherwise the camera is blocked by the opaque section of plastic, but this is not a big deal. There is a raised seal around the window of clear plastic (which takes up about 4/5ths of the phone screen) that makes pulling the unlock ring a little difficult, but not impossible. This is the biggest of the cases, with the most space around the phone. Screen responsiveness through the plastic is good, and the the window is clear, so its easy to see the phone screen. Lanyard runs through the width of the case, and seems very strong - I don't see it snapping or anything.
Waterproof Case for Apple iPhone 4, 4S - Also Works with iPod Touch, iPhone 3G, 3GS, & Other Smartphones - IPX8 Certified to 100 Feet
This one looks very similar to the higher priced overboard case and has great reviews. The areas surrounding the clear windows are puffy, as if it would allow the case to float. Unlike the other cases (which use a combination of two ziplock-type closure zips), this one has a plastic mechanical mechanism to squeeze and hold the opening shut like a vise. I don't know if I would trust this case to remain underwater for any length of time. It doesn't seem to seal as well as I would like, although the reviews all rave about how watertight it is. Having said that, the phone fits in this case perfectly with the tpu case, and even better without a case (upside down again), without being too snug, and the clear windows are exactly the size of the phone screen - only the capacitive buttons are hidden. Screen responsiveness through the plastic is good, and the the window is clear, so its easy to see the phone screen. The puffy areas around the clear screen also do a really good job of holding the phone in place, but makes it a bit difficult to press the power button. The lanyard that this case with end in what appears to be a thread that you loop through an opening in the case and seems like a good tug would snap it off.
Universal Waterproof Bag Case for Cell Phone / PDA, Black/Blue
I was only going to get the black one, but when I saw the blue one for a penny, I decided why not. These are identical cases, but one is black, and one is blue. These are the snuggest cases, and its a challenge to get the phone in, even without the tpu case. The plastic material the cases are made of is very tacky on the inside, so the phone tends to get stuck when you put it in or take it out. The plastic also seems thinner on these than the other cases, and the seals around the edge don't seem very reliable. Once the phone is in though, it's the most compact and pocketable of all of the cases. These cases do not have a clear window on both sides, so if you want to use the camera, then the phone screen will be covered by the translucent side of the case. It's not too bad, and the screen is still visible, but in bright situations, this could be an issue. Having said that, screen responsiveness is very good with these cases, most likely due to the thinness of the plastic. Lanyard goes through hole in the case and seems strong enough. These also come with an arm band that may fit you if you have the arms of a small child. They're really, really small.
Final thoughts - All of these would probably do a good job to keep water and moisture off of the phone (or even sand if you're going to the beach), and I think any of them would be fine to protect against accidental splashing. If I was going diving or swimming with my phone, I would probably shell out the extra cash for the overboard, or at least do some serious waterproof testing on these first. As it stands, I think I'll end up using the first case - Not too crazy about the blue, but I think it will do the best job of keeping the phone dry, and I won't need to worry about going down the log flume with it in my pocket or around my neck (like a tourist, lol).
Hey man, thanks for the reviews. I didn't even know you could get waterproof cases/bags so cheap.
I'll have to pick one up now.
I do suggest you update the prices in your post to include the shipping though for a better cost comparison (even though the difference here is minimal). So many venders inflate the shipping to make up the difference for a $0.01 item.
p.s. I'm going to pick up the first one as well since it looks like I can easily have it in my pocket as a just in case. (I'm in Florida and we have crazy torrential thunderstorms out of no where, so if I'm out jogging, I can have it in my pocket just in case.
Though expensive, Lifeproof cases are really nice. Ive known many people to go out in the ocean and take pictures under water with them.
Just an update, I did end up using that first case, and although it never went underwater, it got splashed on alot. Phone stayed dry, it fit great in the bathing suit pocket, and even took some great pics through the case. Would definitely recommend.
Quick update from me too. I ended up ordering this case: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058NXWPY/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00
Used on a canoe trip. The canoe flipped and it went underwater for around a minute or so, and air dried after, did a great job. Would recommend this one!
i am using the first case, blue, as well. Works fine, keeps my phone dry in a 10ft deep pool. Takes picture fine too. Thanks for the review OP.
I actually prefer these right here. They come in different sizes I prefer the 6-1/2 x 3-1/4I can't confirm they work in 100 ft of water because I have no reason to be that deep ever in my life, but for the average rainy day, screwing around by the pool or working out these work great. The best part is the patented purple zip technology that lets you visibly confirm the case is sealed. Also pics turn out great. Good luck in your decision
Asadullah said:
I actually prefer these right here. They come in different sizes I prefer the 6-1/2 x 3-1/4I can't confirm they work in 100 ft of water because I have no reason to be that deep ever in my life, but for the average rainy day, screwing around by the pool or working out these work great. The best part is the patented purple zip technology that lets you visibly confirm the case is sealed. Also pics turn out great. Good luck in your decision
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahaha that had me laughing so much once I read the whole thing then clicked on the link. Good one!
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Okay guys. As you all know, you can't paint aluminum. Spending a bit of time on Oakley forum, it dawned on me that you can duracoat or cerakote a phone. I have a gold a 2017u that is begging for a refinish. I hate gold, but love this phone. Just curious whether anyone has attempted such or if I will be the first monkey launched into space. Just had my X metal XX refinished and would love the gold to be gone. If we had a hardware modding section, I'd post there. Lol.
What about the antenna bands? Fingerprint reader? What about the plastic speaker covers? Most people, including me, are going to tell you that it's just not worth it. This is especially true if it's just for a color change and not to cover scratches. I actually just bought a gold A7 because I think they look nicer in a case than the grey ones do. I'm normally one for subdued colors but in this case the color of the phone is just an accent color. If you do it, pick a color that isn't offered to make it interesting and post the pictures here.
kitcostantino said:
Okay guys. As you all know, you can't paint aluminum. Spending a bit of time on Oakley forum, it dawned on me that you can duracoat or cerakote a phone. I have a gold a 2017u that is begging for a refinish. I hate gold, but love this phone. Just curious whether anyone has attempted such or if I will be the first monkey launched into space. Just had my X metal XX refinished and would love the gold to be gone. If we had a hardware modding section, I'd post there. Lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol I can't count how many times I've been tempted to take a piece of sandpaper and at least get rid of the gold finish...
The good thing about the construction of this thing is that once you take it apart, only the FP reader and the camera lens remain there. I guess you can get the lens out with a little bit of pressure and take that gold ring off. The reader has a piece of what seems to be tape upon it, but you may as well leave it there. and having the two antenna lines of another color may even look nice
I really want to see the final product...
I'm torn between durabake and duracoat aerosol. I'm fairly confident that powered off, the 200 degrees f would not melt anything plastic on the phone. I wish I knew more about temperature tolerances. Also. I'm torn between primary red and nwu blue. The aerosol kit doesn't require baking, so likely that is a safer option.
Update: duracoat aerosol ordered.
kitcostantino said:
I'm torn between durabake and duracoat aerosol. I'm fairly confident that powered off, the 200 degrees f would not melt anything plastic on the phone. I wish I knew more about temperature tolerances. Also. I'm torn between primary red and nwu blue. The aerosol kit doesn't require baking, so likely that is a safer option.
Update: duracoat aerosol ordered.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait, you are dissembling the phone right? I vote blue but it's too late.
lol. yes. and i ordered the nwu blue.
honestly, i think it will be a great project. if it works, it will be the motivation to acquire a 64/128. (not too motivated on that presently bc of the hideous gold.) NWU blue should be worlds better than ghetto gold.
i plan to take the phone apart.
i plan to duracoat the speaker grills the same color. same thing on sim tray and the parts where the plastic antennae lines are. i honestly could pull off doing it w/o pulling it apart and taping/masking well considering it doesnt have to bake. but i feel like the pita of full disassembly may be worthwhile.
ive taken many many phones apart. so i am not squeamish there. i just am not certain that the fingerprint sensor and the sapphire glass on the camera are that hard to mask off. (eyes crappy slickwraps extras. lol)
edit: after watching this video:
, i *definitely* am disassembling. i am so stoked for a blue axon. i wish i could make a red decal to replace the logos.
kitcostantino said:
honestly, i think it will be a great project. if it works, it will be the motivation to acquire a 64/128. (not too motivated on that presently bc of the hideous gold.) NWU blue should be worlds better than ghetto gold.
i plan to take the phone apart.
i plan to duracoat the speaker grills the same color. same thing on sim tray and the parts where the plastic antennae lines are. i honestly could pull off doing it w/o pulling it apart and taping/masking well considering it doesnt have to bake. but i feel like the pita of full disassembly may be worthwhile.
ive taken many many phones apart. so i am not squeamish there. i just am not certain that the fingerprint sensor and the sapphire glass on the camera are that hard to mask off. (eyes crappy slickwraps extras. lol)
edit: after watching this video:
, i *definitely* am disassembling. i am so stoked for a blue axon. i wish i could make a red decal to replace the logos.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I took apart my Moto G 2 and while these 2 phones are worlds apart in terms of build quality, all it took was a soft piece of wood and some force to get the camera lens to pop off. was riddled with scratches. Shouldn't be too hard to get this one off too, maybe with some heat.
You could use one of those crappy skins (only the camera one, anyways) to put on the backside lens if you can see the PCB through once you get the gold ring off, assuming you can't just paint it and put it again. I'm sure one of those brands can ship you only what you want, don't remember the name though
I guess you'll have to sand the whole body for the paint to stick to the aluminum and stay there with all the handling? If you can take some pictures of the sanded backside I'd be grateful, cause I think i'll just sand it, paint whatever's left and let it be
The FP sensor should be easy to modify, JerryRigEverything always scratches fp sensors with a blade (like you'd ever get to that point lol) abd they always keep working, so if you need to sand it so that the paint gets stuck to the plastic, you can. I don't even know what those paints are, they probably don't even import them here in Argentina. But from what I'm deducing they won't stick to plastic will they?
Also, I'd advise you to be real careful with the fabric thingy that covers the speakers. I broke one and lost the other one, so I have to clean the speakers with a magnet every once in a while... (workshop fills them up with iron dust). and something JerryRigEverything didn't mention on the disassemble video was that the power button is free-floating once you take it apart (it can't fall off though) and when I was putting the phone together the chassis somehow bent a little bit. Nothing critical but sure looks bad
Choose an username... said:
Well, I took apart my Moto G 2 and while these 2 phones are worlds apart in terms of build quality, all it took was a soft piece of wood and some force to get the camera lens to pop off. was riddled with scratches. Shouldn't be too hard to get this one off too, maybe with some heat.
You could use one of those crappy skins (only the camera one, anyways) to put on the backside lens if you can see the PCB through once you get the gold ring off, assuming you can't just paint it and put it again. I'm sure one of those brands can ship you only what you want, don't remember the name though
I guess you'll have to sand the whole body for the paint to stick to the aluminum and stay there with all the handling? If you can take some pictures of the sanded backside I'd be grateful, cause I think i'll just sand it, paint whatever's left and let it be
The FP sensor should be easy to modify, JerryRigEverything always scratches fp sensors with a blade (like you'd ever get to that point lol) abd they always keep working, so if you need to sand it so that the paint gets stuck to the plastic, you can. I don't even know what those paints are, they probably don't even import them here in Argentina. But from what I'm deducing they won't stick to plastic will they?
Also, I'd advise you to be real careful with the fabric thingy that covers the speakers. I broke one and lost the other one, so I have to clean the speakers with a magnet every once in a while... (workshop fills them up with iron dust). and something JerryRigEverything didn't mention on the disassemble video was that the power button is free-floating once you take it apart (it can't fall off though) and when I was putting the phone together the chassis somehow bent a little bit. Nothing critical but sure looks bad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what i understand, Duracoat will bond to any material, so long as it is degreased and prepped (sanded in this scenario) . So plastic is in. (yay)
i plan to spray the buttons but i do not plan to remove them unless i have to. even the full disassembly is not that hard.
I dont necessarily plan to paint the fp sensor unless i know the finish will not impede functionality. Duracoat may break the functionality, so i might have to be creative. its funny you mention jerryrigeverything's video bc that was my proof of concept for being able to sand the sensor down to not gold color.
on my Droid Turbo, i used to cover the capacitive buttons with clear self adhesive vinyl before i covered the screen with a Skinomi Tech skin. I may just sand the sensor enough for it to no longer be gold and grab some clear self adhesive vinyl to color match, provided that does not break functionality.
as far as sanding/prepping, i plan to emulate the process used in the video here:
and i also plan to take pics and make instructions for the whole process.
The Axon 7 forums dont have any physical mod posts, so it will be nice to put one out there as it is the best device i have owned so far. I used to be a Moto man. but they lost me with the novelty of "mods" and Verizon making boot loaders permanently locked.
My Duracoat should be here by the 30th. i really wish i could buy another color midframe that isnt gold, but ZTE parts are a pain to find.
kitcostantino said:
My Duracoat should be here by the 30th. i really wish i could buy another color midframe that isnt gold, but ZTE parts are a pain to find.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any news? I really wanna see that phone
lol. im watching a couple of 128/6 atm bc one can should do two. depending on how that pans out, i may be able to start on it this weekend.
no news yet. i missed out on the 128gb i was watching. honestly, the hardest part is gonna be having to use my Droid Turbo for a week while the Duracoat cures. fortunately, Turbo has some awesome devs. im still paranoid the midframe will chip easily on the sides, but even after i duracoat it, i will still use a case.
i also have to decide by what means to prep the surfaces. i figure a fine sandpaper, then the truestrip that came with the duracoat. masking the round parts is going to be a pita.
so in essence, its close, but im still deciding my plan of attack. after the holiday, i should be ready to start.
well, i have the turbo updated and im about to go pick up my sandpaper. the camera ring (if i cant find how to remove it) i am leaving gold. i had initially thought id sand the gold off of the camera, but its under the glass. ordered dbrand skins for the camera. if all works as planned, that is a compromise im willing to accept.
the plan as it stands: (commencing this evening)
1) Sand finish of back, sides, mid-frame after disassembly.
2) clean all with Tru Strip (included with Duracoat Aerosol kit).
3) duracoat 5 layers, heat flashing in between coats.
4) (hardest step) leave alone for a week and allow to cure.
I will add pics or a vid when and if time allows while im in the process.
Im using 3m Sandpaper and a sanding block i picked up from Walmart. totally forgot painters tape. back to the store i go. camera on Turbo pales in comparison to Axon 7, so bear with me in this process.
gold finish is thicker than anticipated. i cant get down to bare metal. might say screw it and go with what i got.
400 grit takes forever. camera flash is dead. i tore the black material under the fingerprint sensor. totally pulled the trigger too soon. gonna paint as is. eying broken ones on ebay. if all else goes well (prepped to duracoat atm) either i will live w/o flash and fingerprint sensor (bc of my own haste) or ill buy a grey A7. either way, this back will look great on another axon 7.
also, the gold on the camera lens is a sticker on the bottom side. popped out, and when i went to grab it, thats when the flash fell out.
its probably doomed to look like crap, but progress.
more
verdict: bad ideas ruined a great project. axon is dead. at least, locked in a boot loop. buttons are stuck. buying grey now. lol. lessons learned.
Try using a razor blade to scrape the inside edges of the button holes.