Have a spare cord I found to use at work. When it comes to 'shaving' down the micro end of the cord so it fits in the Fascinate, is it okay to just use a knife? Appx how far back in the assembly does the connector go before it turns into wires?
I would say that it's ok to use a knife, but I would make sure it is sharp, possibly a utility knife or xacto knife. It would likely be safer to just angle the plastic/rubber so that it can fit down into the port on the phone though, rather than removing it completely as different manufacturers may make shorter/longer connectors, so there is really no telling how far in to the plastic the wires start.
Or use a power sander.... more likely imnuts solution would work best though.
Sent from my SCH-I500 using XDA App
Yea you absolutely can cut a cord to fit. I however found it much easier to by a half dozen from amazon at around $1.30 per with free shipping.
imnuts said:
I would say that it's ok to use a knife, but I would make sure it is sharp, possibly a utility knife or xacto knife. It would likely be safer to just angle the plastic/rubber so that it can fit down into the port on the phone though, rather than removing it completely as different manufacturers may make shorter/longer connectors, so there is really no telling how far in to the plastic the wires start.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did this very thing to modify my wife's Lg enV cord. Had to remove about 1mm of rubber to get a deeper seat & it worked great.
Sent from my SCH-I500 using XDA App
Had this same exact issue with eSATA cables
Related
** UPDATED WITH PICS **
I just got a LapDock from an AT&T store thinking I can mess with it to make it work with my Photon. After disassembling the docking connector, I found that there are 2 separate connectors for the ports, which is awesome. This allowed me to manipulate them into position to fit my MoPho. Plugged it up, and it fired right up like the HD dock for the TV. I'm writing this post from it now, it's pretty cool! I plan on putting up some pics in a bit showing the connections. I'll delve into the device more fully later, but this accessory will work with the Photon fully! No limitations (at least, not in my limited testing)
Good stuff! Looking forward to seeing some photos (taken from your Photon of course, right?) of the dock to see what modifications you made!
Awesome!
I just ordered my Photon today and was hoping that by the time it arrived, someone would have pulled a MacGyver and figured out how to rig the Atrix dock.
You sir, are this month's official winner MacGyver award.
Looking forward to seeing the pics too.
Can't wait to see the pics.
...............................................................
Close up of the Photon HD Dock vs the LapDock. You can see the difference in orientation
The Dock connector needs to be flipped out, then can be opened by removing a screw on each side under a small flat cover.
pop open the connector, its just clicked together at this point. unscrew the metal clip holding the individual connectors to the chassis. the individual connectors can now be manipulated into position for the Photon.
the connectors can be routed under and behind the LapDock so that the Photon lays on the table. I want to figure out a way to rearrange the connectors to hold the Photon like it should, in the dock normally. Webtop fires up and operates as it does on the HD Station.
Nicely done...and glad to give you your FIRST Thanks! I might hafta find me a LapDock on the cheap!
Further disassembly. Flip the LapDock over, remove the screw in the middle near the back of the unit. remove the 2 rubber feet at the back of the unit and remove the 2 screws revealed.flip back over. pry (carefully) the back top cover off the unit, working along the very back of the unit. This should pop the cover off. There is a thin wire running to the charge indicator along the front of the top cover, so work carefully. once off, the circuitry can be examined. the connector that leads to the dock is along the left edge of the board. one PCB connector feeds both dock connectors. This connector is like laptop LCD connectors, and easily pops up and off the board
Bandage said:
Nicely done...and glad to give you your FIRST Thanks! I might hafta find me a LapDock on the cheap!
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Click to collapse
LOL thanks! kinda funny, been lurking here for years, ran into a problem posting this writeup since i was a 'new' member with only 2 previous posts. had to wait 5 minutes between updates.
I saw LapDocks on AT&T's site for only $175 for refurbished units, not too bad considering I paid 300 to get a unit to hack apart....
After removing the dock portion from the rest of the unit, I removed the connectors and took an Xacto knife to the openings for the individual connectors. I removed the shaped openings for the micro hdmi and micro usb, leaving plain rectangular openings. I then fitted the connectors back in, rotating them to match the orientation on the Photon. Luckily, the Atrix has the same spacing between the ports, just a mirror layout and shifted down the edge of the phone. with longer wires, this could be made to be a perfect fit for the Photon, but Moto apparenly knows best
anyway, after getting the connectors set properly, I then pieced it all back together. the new layout strains the wires just a bit, so that everything else is not quite as smooth as it was starting out. It's fine, and works properly, but theres that little bit thats just noticeable. the MoPho hangs off the edge of the dock, and has to be pressed tightly to ensure a good connection, but works great. There is a small piece that pops off of the dock portion, i think its removed if you're using a case with the Atrix, Make sure this piece stays off, I dont think the connection will be very good otherwise.
cdthomas9 said:
After removing the dock portion from the rest of the unit, I removed the connectors and took an Xacto knife to the openings for the individual connectors. I removed the shaped openings for the micro hdmi and micro usb, leaving plain rectangular openings. I then fitted the connectors back in, rotating them to match the orientation on the Photon. Luckily, the Atrix has the same spacing between the ports, just a mirror layout and shifted down the edge of the phone. with longer wires, this could be made to be a perfect fit for the Photon, but Moto apparenly knows best
anyway, after getting the connectors set properly, I then pieced it all back together. the new layout strains the wires just a bit, so that everything else is not quite as smooth as it was starting out. It's fine, and works properly, but theres that little bit thats just noticeable. the MoPho hangs off the edge of the dock, and has to be pressed tightly to ensure a good connection, but works great. There is a small piece that pops off of the dock portion, i think its removed if you're using a case with the Atrix, Make sure this piece stays off, I dont think the connection will be very good otherwise.
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Click to collapse
Hey CD...what about flipping the connectors around in their sockets so the Photon would sit flush, but facing away from the LapDock?
Webtop runs great, i like the environment as a whole, but there isnt much to do natively. Email apps and maneuvering around the phone UI is a little irritating. You can just make the Mobile View full screen, but some of the interface doesnt scale well. I'd like to see native webtop apps, like firefox is, but I'm not sure how that works.
cdthomas9 said:
the connectors can be routed under and behind the LapDock so that the Photon lays on the table. I want to figure out a way to rearrange the connectors to hold the Photon like it should, in the dock normally. Webtop fires up and operates as it does on the HD Station.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This thread excited me!!! Have you found a way to make it sit inside yet?
Bandage said:
Hey CD...what about flipping the connectors around in their sockets so the Photon would sit flush, but facing away from the LapDock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought of that, but the micro hdmi connector doesn't have enough give or length to do it. I also thought of breaking out the soldering iron, kynar wire and HST but I think that theres a lot of wire in those bundles...
ScandaLeX said:
This thread excited me!!! Have you found a way to make it sit inside yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Post 13 shows the closest i can get, without lengthening wires i think. or getting Moto to make me a longer connection set
newalker91 said:
I would just dremel a nice little hole through the plastic immediately above the base connector and run the wires up the back of the screen, then build a cradle onto the back of the monitor for the phone. I need to save up and buy one and get to work.
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Click to collapse
LOL, I was thinking of doing the same thing. Just mount the phone to the back of the screen somehow, but the wires are literally no more than 2" long. I think Bandage was looking into micro usb and hdmi extension cables though....
cdthomas9 said:
LOL, I was thinking of doing the same thing. Just mount the phone to the back of the screen somehow, but the wires are literally no more than 2" long. I think Bandage was looking into micro usb and hdmi extension cables though....
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Click to collapse
Yeah...no luck finding an effin Micro HDMI extension cable tho. Anyone else find someone who makes / distributes them?
Okay, I finally made ten posts, so here is a full walkthrough. I hope you like it!
The case I used:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P0YJBG/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details
Cable to buy:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-UUSBHAUB1RA-Feet-Micro-Cable/dp/B003YKX6WC/ref=pd_cp_e_4
Really, any micro-usb cable should work, but I like the right angle on this one.
Powermat reciever:
http://www.amazon.com/Powermat-Batt..._1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1326948784&sr=1-1
As near as I can tell, any of them will work, but this one is really cheap.
Total cost of all three components is less than $20.
Step 1:
Destroy the plastic housing on the powermat reciever. When you get done, you should be left with something that looks like this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g9baja3sx4qnc7g/20120118_223732.jpg
Obviously, this one has a usb tip already soldered on to it. We'll get there.
Step 2: Clean all of the sticky stuff off of the powermat with an exacto knife or rubbing alcohol, then remove any leads from the four terminals across the bottom. (There should only be leads on pad 1 and 4).
Step 3: Cut your usb cable in half, leaving around an inch-and-a-half of wire on the end with the micro-usb connector. You can throw away the other half.
Step 4: Now for the hard part. Strip back the black exterior about a half inch, and trim away the braided shielding. Cut all of the wires off EXCEPT the red and black wires. These are your ground and your lead wires. Then VERY CAREFULLY strip them. I would recommend just scoring the material and pulling rather than trying to cut it and remove it without damaging the wires inside.
Step 5: Now position the unit with the black magnet upwards and the four terminals towards you. Solder the red lead wire to the far left terminal, and the black lead wire to the far right.
Step 6: Place a piece of electrical tape over the soldered wires to reinforce them.
Step 7: Trim away as much of the plug end as you feel comfortable with. If you cut the perforated part off, you can get the wire to run straight down and fit much more neatly.
Step 8: Place the unit in the case magnet-side up, and push the plug through the usb port hole in the bottom of the case. It should now look like this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/245em6bj2clmm8r/20120118_224257.jpg
Step 9: Put your phone in the case, and plug the usb tip in. Your phone will now charge on a Powermat charger.
Step 10: Profit???
Final product in case:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zmgvnwomuphbv67/20120118_222845.jpg
I'd be interested in seeing this, those seem like a pretty cool idea.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk
Cool. I ordered a case that I think it will fit in to and I'll document it and post it.
TannerBlair said:
Cool. I ordered a case that I think it will fit in to and I'll document it and post it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ill be checking up on this
I'll be keeping up as well!
Sent from my AT&T cellular device.
Ok, the case will be in tomorrow, but I've been using it sans case since I made the first post and so far it works great. Charges fine, and doesn't seem to cause any other issues. Now if only I had a way to post pictures...
Where is it on sale for $1.99? I'm interrested in this too...
okay guys, walkthrough with pics should be up in no time!
Excellent concept but it adds a bit too much bulk to the phone for me. Would love to buy an inductive charging system that replaces the battery back and adds little or no bulk to the phone.
I can see where you're coming from, but it actually doesn't add that much. The powermat unit is thinner than the hump at the bottom of the phone, so the only perceived added bulk is really just the case.I initially considered soldering the leads straight in to the phone, but there is the remote chance that you could absent-mindedly have it on the powermat and plugged in to your computer, and there is a good chance you could wreck your phone. If I had to guess, this is why they don't make ones that replace the battery.
If/when I make a version 2, I am going to play around with making my own adapter as well. I think that i could cut down on a lot of the plug bulk by doing so.
Looking closer at it, I can see that the magnet induction assembly IS pretty small. In that case, my biggest problem becomes the TPU case - I can't stand the feel of those things.
Looking forward to version 2 if you decide to go ahead with it. Just an idea - is there such a thing as a USB pass-through microUSB connector?
Nice. may have to give this a shot.
I love the idea, and really would like to see some pics.
Why is it almost none of the Android phones get the power mat love?
Sent from my SGH-I777 using xda premium
Drop Box doesnt work
None of your images open. Try using imgur
I still don't see the pics...
Sent from my SGH-I777 using xda premium
Seriously though, the powermat is American ignorance at its peak. A magical pad that charges your phone without wires! OK, what about the wire connected to the powermat? That's a wire, and unless your buddy has a powermat as well, you have to unplug the power mat to use it on the go. So convenient! Not to mention the extra girth it adds to the device. Effectively doubles the weight on most phones as well. People, its not that cool. Just use the cord that came with your phone. There's a reason radioshack marked them down from $50 to 10.
Sent from my SGH-I777 using xda premium
Next on your hitlist: Logitech forums and their wireless mice/keyboards.
Questions: Could you take a picture from the side of the Powermat receiver sitting on the back of the phone with the battery cover off?
And, do you want some hosting? Be happy to mirror the images.
Pics don't work. They're just blank white squares
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using XDA App
Would love to see the pics re-uploaded for this walk through.
Oxy
As most of the users who tried the usb dongle I found that it sits pretty loose in the socket, and I can see how easily it can snap the charger pins, on the other hand, it's really useful accessory to have......
So....
I took a piece of metal (from a cover of a pci slot I had laying around) bent it carefully to fit the backside of the prime. Covered the whole thing in hot glue, to prevent damage to the delicate metal and ductaped the metal to the dongle. The result is pretty good, the dongle sits firmly in the socket, no wobbly movement (the backside is restricted by the metal, the front side restricted by the thickness of the dongle) although it's not pretty it gets the work done, I can connect everything to it without the fear of snapping the charging pins
And yes, whoever engineered the dongle should be fired!! I can't understand how Asus let this thing pass the prototype stage....
Agreed and yes it is ugly I'm gonna copy ur design tonight though
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
if you have access to someother coating material I guess you can make it smoother and nicer. File the hard edges and coat several layers and you should have a slick design..
My own 'Mod'
After having my Usb kit delivered, I saw your post, I ran around the house looking for the metal type object the same as your PCI card...
I couldn't find one, so i decided to make my own! I found an old credit card, so i decided to cut it up and stick it on both sides. duct taped it! and stuck it on!
It looks ugly, but its stable and does the job! I wont be wasting 19.99GBP!
Curious if anyone is using the Palm Touchstone wireless charging mod for the SGS3. I got everything for a Palm Pre, touchstone, cable, etc.. Did the mod which was stupid easy... but the buldge of the back cover is driving me nuts. I have no idea how to make it more flush again. There is ZERO chance of putting an case on here now, for 1 it seems like the charging signal wouldn't be strong enough... and the buldge would absolutely prevent it.
Any help would be appreciated.
BTW: I used super thin 24 gauge wire out of a cable (like a usb cable/printer cable) to go from the palm pre charging pads to the pins of the sgs3.
I used the palm pixi's back for my mid. It is thinner that the pre's so there is less bulge.
Edit: I also used copper foil/tape to make my connections. I don't know if that would reduce bulge or not though.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
I read somewhere the pixi back was thinner but I read that after I ordered the pre back. I didn't have any copper foil tape so I used wire from a usb cable, and if I did use foil tape it seems like I would need something to push down into the phone connectors as they seem a tiny bit recessed.
Don't get me wrong, everything works, and charging works, but the bulge is noticeable and there is no way I could use a case back now. Glad I got the whole body Zagg invisible shield. :thumbup:
How did you address the phone connectors being deep inside? What did you use to make your foil tape touch the leads in the phone? I just kind of pushed the wires in there and used a little rape to prevent shorts.
T-Mobile Samsung Galaxy S3 SGH-T999 Tapatalk 2
On the Sprint model there is no sim card. If you cut a square out of the internal cover to the right of the microSD card you have a nice little space to hide the circuit board that causes the buldge. I just posted a question- where to buy the internal plastic cover? I don't want to risk screwing up my original.. BTW I used copper tape. On the pixie back I soldered the tape to the leads. For the phone connection I cut the tape too long and rolled it up to the spot it needed to be to make contact with the S3 contacts.
I have the touchstone and palm charging back. Is it possible to do this mod without soldiering the GS3?
Roll the tape up...:fingers-crossed: Sometimes I hate myself, I always think of the hardest way to do something.... Of course - why not roll the tape into a little ball. DUH!
I think I could probably get the bulge down a little, but I'm not sure it would make a lot of difference... I guess I could always just buy a pixi back and try again? or just wait for Sept and get the samsung kit.
I had read that the samsung kit will charge when the phone is relatively close by - I read 2 meters, but that doesnt sound right - that would be like 6ft... I would settle for 1 ft. The touchstone has to be RIGHT on it... If I had an otterbox case, I am 99% sure the magnetics wouldn't catch and I doubt think the charging field would work, because I can hold it just above the reach of the magnets and no charge. Touch it to the touchstone and BINGO.
I want to install an SD card, but the back plate of the Truesmart... is not possible to remove.
I've used the OEM screwdriver and my own screwdrivers, but I've only managed to undo two screws; the other two are stuck. I think it might be the fact that the grooves of the screws are too flat.
However, does anybody have tips or recommendations to undo these two screws?
There are tiny stickers that say "OK" under a microscope over two of the backplate screws, to prevent tampering and inserting your SD card and having to do warranty replacements. If you didn't remove them first, they are now filling up the inadequate Phillips #000 head slots with plastic sticker.
Throw away the little screwdriver thing it shipped with, unless you need it for stabbing Smurfs.
If you have to drill out the screws, the spare ones shipped with the watch are better quality anyway.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Use a better screw driver. I had to use one of my precision screw drivers to get sufficient grip on the screws to unscrew them.
speedyink said:
Use a better screw driver. I had to use one of my precision screw drivers to get sufficient grip on the screws to unscrew them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be a bit careful, though, because one of my Sim card Compartment screws was way tight and I used a proper screw driver--and the screw sheared leaving about 1 mm stub in the bottom of the screw thread hole--at least, that is what I think must have happened since the screw in question is now about 1 mm shorter than the other.
I have written a nice letter to Omate, and got an initial reply--but, it's anyone's guess what their remedy will be?? Not a replacement watch I am sure.
Drilling and tapping screws that small is not possible--at least not by me.
I ended up having to apply heat to the screws in the sim cover to remove them. Intresting enough, there was no sign of threadlocking agent when the screws finally came out.
What exact kind of Screwdriver do you need?
I have problems with the standard one that came with the TS. No I want to buy a better one from Amazon or hardware-store.
I have the same issue, the screwdriver that came with the TS is pretty much useless. I was able to remove just one screw and the rest did not budge...
I am really disappointed with the design flaws of this device.
Yep, stock screwdriver is a POS.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
The driver I used is marked P0 - and i think it is this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-66-344M-4-in-1-Pocket-Screwdriver/dp/B0014KMDZ0
I think I bought mine in Tesco, it's pretty handy and better quality than I expected.