Tv out - Vibrant Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

I bought the cables to hook my phone to the tv but I cant seem to get it to work,I know about having to switch the audio and video connectors around....I've tried every combination with no luck,is there a setting on the phone besides turning on tv out that I need to do?

this may sound simple...
but make sure the cable is all the way in, its really easy to have it not quite plugged in all the way.
it should click in like regular headphones, then it should pop in one step further.
(of course this might vary from cable to cable, but every one I've used is like that)

second that..I had to keep replugging my cable until it actually worked...push that sucker hard!!!!!

Ok I've tried everything!....the best I can get is clear audio and or scrambled video :-/

Maybe check the NTCS settings or pal settings on your phone/tv, also check your HDMI settings on the tv, sometimes depending on the tv each HDMI was set up for specific signals.

Related

Cradle, Keyboard, Monitor, USB Hub and Mouse

Guys,
I bought a cradle from ebay (leeonline) because I cannot get a 4 in 1 adaptor from HTC. I tried using the vga-out (17 inch CRT Monitor), rca video out (our Television Set), Brandless USB hub, Generic/standard USB Keyboard and Generic/standard USB Mouse on it all at the same time. Everything works.
Now, I really no longer bring my laptop to work. My athena is all I need for Word Processing, Spreadsheets etc. There are quirks though. Sometimes, the mouse stops working or the athena hangs. (It may be the amount of programs installed.) Then again, It is still faster to boot than my laptop. The other downside is that even with the cradle plugged to the adaptor, It will still consume energy from the battery of the unit.
What I have done to my athena may not be new to most people but I would like to hear from other people what attachments or modifications they have done to make their athena more useful and powerful. In this way, we can all benefit from these ideas. Thanks!
Thanks!
yetdy said:
Guys,
I bought a cradle from ebay (leeonline) because I cannot get a 4 in 1 adaptor from HTC. I tried using the vga-out (17 inch CRT Monitor), rca video out (our Television Set), Brandless USB hub, Generic/standard USB Keyboard and Generic/standard USB Mouse on it all at the same time. Everything works.
Now, I really no longer bring my laptop to work. My athena is all I need for Word Processing, Spreadsheets etc. There are quirks though. Sometimes, the mouse stops working or the athena hangs. (It may be the amount of programs installed.) Then again, It is still faster to boot than my laptop. The other downside is that even with the cradle plugged to the adaptor, It will still consume energy from the battery of the unit.
What I have done to my athena may not be new to most people but I would like to hear from other people what attachments or modifications they have done to make their athena more useful and powerful. In this way, we can all benefit from these ideas. Thanks!
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to do that, but the novelty wore off eventually. Now i just bring in a mini notebook. It's easier than carrying loads of bits about and connecting things to monitors (though that option is still there if necessary).
Pretty cool though if you like your gadgets.
Leoni is correct, however he can always leave the other stuff connected to the cradle and use it sorta like a docking station, but you would need a second cradle for the home TV. I'm glad this thread started because I myself was considering getting one for my TV. However, what should I do about the audio coming from my device (will I still be able to connect audio to my AV receiver)? As far as the 4 in 1 cable I would be able to get to the audio jack on the Athena however the down side is that not all USB flash drives would be supported with the 4 in 1 cable. Yetdy can you tell me how you work around getting audio streamed?
I think there are a few ways to stream audio.
#1 S-Video if I'm not mistaken is supposed to stream audio to your TV.
#2 Audio Jack to RCA Audio converters connected directly to the TV or amplifier would also help assumming you are using the 4-in 1 adaptor. Cradle cannot help you out with this option.
#3 Of course there is bluetooth connection which is what I am going to use. Got a bluetooth transmitter and receiver from ebay but is currently busted (bad seller). Another is to get a BT that has a changeable earphone/buds. Change the earphone to an audio jack to RCA Audio jack and follow #2.
Hope this helps.
yes and no
yetdy said:
I think there are a few ways to stream audio.
#1 S-Video if I'm not mistaken is supposed to stream audio to your TV.
****You are mistaken, S-video is video only (the pins are luminance, chroma, ground and something else I can't remember off the top of my head) ****
#2 Audio Jack to RCA Audio converters connected directly to the TV or amplifier would also help assumming you are using the 4-in 1 adaptor. Cradle cannot help you out with this option.
****if it is anything like the one I got from ebay then no, as it covers up the headphones out port from the athena but does not replicate it on the back ! the athena also carries audio out from the same USB connector that you charge it from (this is why the socket on the athena is an unusual/different shape compared to your plug on USB charger) if they had replicated this port propely on the dock then you could have got audio out that way, but the dock connector for that is also wrong (standard USB shaped socket, not the odd one from the athena) ****
#3 Of course there is bluetooth connection which is what I am going to use. Got a bluetooth transmitter and receiver from ebay but is currently busted (bad seller). Another is to get a BT that has a changeable earphone/buds. Change the earphone to an audio jack to RCA Audio jack and follow #2.
****it is feasible to have the athena transmit stereo bluetooth to a nearby device !****
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just my 2 pence worth
If you want to play audio on your home theatre speaker, you could also consider the option of plugging an FM transmitterinto the headphone jack, then use your FM receiver to play through your theatre speaker.
That was how I used to play my music in the car, through the car's srereo speakers.
eaglesteve said:
If you want to play audio on your home theatre speaker, you could also consider the option of plugging an FM transmitterinto the headphone jack, then use your FM receiver to play through your theatre speaker.
That was how I used to play my music in the car, through the car's srereo speakers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wont work if the Athena is in the ebay dock/cradle, as it covers up the audio out port, but does not replicate it.
Ice coffee,
Maybe you can share some other options here. You may have other ideas that may be useful to us. I just got my athena last month and cradle last week so I cannot really say with authority what it can and what it cannot do. If you can help us out in maximizing the athena with its cradle, many will appreciate it.
None of the video outputs from the 4-in-1 carry audio, the only options are BT a2dp or the headphones jack. Seems a bit long-winded to me though - I'm sure there are less fiddly mods out there. I just used to use the magnetic keyboard as a stand, slipped a BT keyboard over the top of it and the 4-in-1 for usb hub etc. This left a free audio jack to use as I wished. Seems like the docking station is more of a hindrance than a help.
HTC Advantage
Docking station
Keyboard
Mouse
Hifi Bluetooth A2DP adaptor
USB Hub....
I think my EEE pc is a more convenient device on the whole than the above setup would've been if i'd carried all that with me I wouldn't have had any space to fit my work stuff!
I came accross another docking station for $119.00 USD that has the audio option on the side along with 2 standard USB ports instead of 1. I think it's a bit too pricey, due to the fact that on flebay they do have a2dp stereo bluetooth adapters for like $50 USD. Besides with that and your bluetooth headsets it might still be possible to answer a incoming phone call on your bt headset without having to hear the audio coming from your A/V receiver (considering you left the phone on). Leoni, both options have their own drawback (no powering source with the 4 in 1 cable for all USB storage devices and the inaccessable headphone jack when using the docking station). But anyway I'm going to order the 4 in 1 cable too and see which one works best for me on a day to day use.
as I said the only simple option is to use bluetooth and as tootalk2000 pointed out you can get adaptors on ebay for £25 ish, I suppose the other more complicated option would be to, take your cradle apart and replace the USB connector into the phone with this,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2in1-Audio-US...oryZ3728QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
and then take the other end of this apart and make it fit in your cradle, it would actually be quite easy to do as there is a lot of space in the cradle.
ice_coffee said:
as I said the only simple option is to use bluetooth and as tootalk2000 pointed out you can get adaptors on ebay for £25 ish, I suppose the other more complicated option would be to, take your cradle apart and replace the USB connector into the phone with this,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2in1-Audio-US...oryZ3728QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
and then take the other end of this apart and make it fit in your cradle, it would actually be quite easy to do as there is a lot of space in the cradle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awwwww shux, someone just gave me some experimenting to go do. I'm ordering one of those jacks today, and hopefully it will come around the same time as cradle. I'll just super glue it to the back portion of the cradle and plug it in externally. Due to the fact that the USB port is still on there you would still be able to sync even when the ear phone jack is still in use.
tootallk2000 said:
Awwwww shux, someone just gave me some experimenting to go do. I'm ordering one of those jacks today, and hopefully it will come around the same time as cradle. I'll just super glue it to the back portion of the cradle and plug it in externally. Due to the fact that the USB port is still on there you would still be able to sync even when the ear phone jack is still in use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol my thoughts exactly.

[Q] requesting bamf team to modify bluetooth stack and USB connection...

Can anyone make a request for the das bamf team? I would like the Bluetooth stack modded to have a higher bit pool rate. The sound quality when streaming music is really sub par. Ive been told its due to the BT stack having a low bit pool. CM7 or example is supposed to have addressed this.
Another request would be to have the menu where you choose what type of connection you want when you plug into a computer (mount as hard drive, charge only, etc) to come up ANYTIME you plug the usb cable into a power source. My pioneer premier stereo doesn't bring up that menu when I plug it in via usb. The phone just charges. Therefore I can't play music through usb.
In the alternative does anyone know how the phone actually knows its hooked up to a laptop and not a wall outlet? What actually causes that menu to pop up?
While I lack the knowledge to understand WHY I can't pair things like Wiimotes on my HTC phones, I would love for someone who understands the problem to work on a fix for it. I love HTC, I had the Incredible and now have the incredible2 (stock) and the TB (BAMF remix). I hate the fact that my buddies with motorola phones can dl emulators and pair up Wiimotes and go to town. As far as sound quality I have had good luck with some BT devices and bad luck with others. I have a Jabra clipper BT RX that I use in the car and it sounds as good as wired.
As for the usb menu, I think it would be great to add the connection type pop up everytime you plug anything in, as long as we could toggle that feature so i don't hve to choose everytime me TB hits a car or home charger.
speed51133 said:
Can anyone make a request for the das bamf team? I would like the Bluetooth stack modded to have a higher bit pool rate. The sound quality when streaming music is really sub par. Ive been told its due to the BT stack having a low bit pool. CM7 or example is supposed to have addressed this.
Another request would be to have the menu where you choose what type of connection you want when you plug into a computer (mount as hard drive, charge only, etc) to come up ANYTIME you plug the usb cable into a power source. My pioneer premier stereo doesn't bring up that menu when I plug it in via usb. The phone just charges. Therefore I can't play music through usb.
In the alternative does anyone know how the phone actually knows its hooked up to a laptop and not a wall outlet? What actually causes that menu to pop up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=708685
Its an ongoing issue for many people. Looking into it, but its looking a bit bleak right now.
Thank you very much for all you do.
Any advise on the usb connection menu and how to make it come up?
any help on the following?
Another request would be to have the menu where you choose what type of connection you want when you plug into a computer (mount as hard drive, charge only, etc) to come up ANYTIME you plug the usb cable into a power source. My pioneer premier stereo doesn't bring up that menu when I plug it in via usb. The phone just charges. Therefore I can't play music through usb.
In the alternative does anyone know how the phone actually knows its hooked up to a laptop and not a wall outlet? What actually causes that menu to pop up?

mhl trouble

I got my mhl addapter but it is not working correctly. I hook the addapter to the hdmi cable then hook the power using the cable and power supply that came with the phone and finally connect to the phone. I do hear a beep and see the phone charging so i know the power connection is good. Most of the time i dont get anything at all in the monitor, sometimes all i get is a flashing of the screen as if a signal is coming and going and in a handful of instances it had work but it would play video very chopy at both the hdtv and the phone screen, like a frame every 3 seconds. I try my larger hdtv and exibit the same behavior execpt that i never got it to work. I realize the addapter migth be defective but in the other hand i might be doing something wrong. The videos i tried both works fine in the phone by itself. One is off youtube and one is a movie saved in the sd card.
Thanks!
Fernandq said:
I got my mhl addapter but it is not working correctly. I hook the addapter to the hdmi cable then hook the power using the cable and power supply that came with the phone and finally connect to the phone. I do hear a beep and see the phone charging so i know the power connection is good. Most of the time i dont get anything at all in the monitor, sometimes all i get is a flashing of the screen as if a signal is coming and going and in a handful of instances it had work but it would play video very chopy at both the hdtv and the phone screen, like a frame every 3 seconds. I try my larger hdtv and exibit the same behavior execpt that i never got it to work. I realize the addapter migth be defective but in the other hand i might be doing something wrong. The videos i tried both works fine in the phone by itself. One is off youtube and one is a movie saved in the sd card.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have trouble getting mine to connect to my monitor. It takes me many tries but when I finally get it to work I don't have choppy video like you are talking about...everything runs smooth.
You have debugging off, correct? Other than that it may be your adapter as mine has yet to give me a problem on any TV
The debugging set to on was causijg the lag in the video. Thanks. After i got that out of the way i played with it more and realized the reason i dont get video has to do with the usb cable. I can play with it and if i put pressure in an upward direction it works. So i know i do have a defective addapter. I will try other usb cables but this is a good working cable and brand new. Another issue worth to mention is how horrible the video quality is. It looks like real redish, no sharp at all. It reminds me the old time when we only had over the air tv signal and you were getting a signal from a distant station. Is this normal? I wasnt expecting 1080 full hd signal but if this is the way it is supposed to work then maybe i dont need this addapter after all. Anyone care to coment on their video quality?
I tried at work on my pc monitor with a hdmi to dvi adapter. I had no problem getting the adapter to work continuously but video got choppy again even without debuging on... I will do some more testing later...
hate to bump this but if anyone using mhl can chime in and let me know how good/bad is their video quality on a 32 inch (or higher) hd tv I will appreciate it much. If what I saw in mine is the way it is supposed to look then I might as well save my money and watch whatever I am watching in the phone itself....
Thanks!
I'm having the same issues, too. Would like to know if anybody knows how to resolve this.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk
Fernandq said:
hate to bump this but if anyone using mhl can chime in and let me know how good/bad is their video quality on a 32 inch (or higher) hd tv I will appreciate it much. If what I saw in mine is the way it is supposed to look then I might as well save my money and watch whatever I am watching in the phone itself....
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hook mine up to my 55in LCD every once in a while and the videos play at almost the exact quality as what's on the note's screen. The only difference I've noticed is the picture on my TV isn't as bright as on the note when playing videos.
Mine is good from time to time on a 42" screen, but the sound cuts out sometimes, and occasionally static goes across the screen.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk
So I should see good quality... Tonight I tried my work monitor. I hooked a hdmi to dvi adapter to the monitor, hook the hdmi cable to it, then hook the cable to the mhl adapter, hook the power, then hook to the phone... It worked great, the audio was coming out of the phone which I was expecting to have to bluetooth to my pc to use it for audio as you loose your audio feed when going hdmi to dvi. Videos were looking great, no lag in audio, no skipping or anything. I played youtube videos off dolphin, stock browser and the youtube application with no problem. Played different videos just to make sure it was not the content. Then played some of the movies on my sd card. All great. The only issues I would have is at times I lost all video for several seconds (total back screen) and sometimes when I loose video I would get snow. I rearranged my monitor set up since I use dual monitors at work and wanted to have use the dvi connection on the secondary monitor instead of the first. Then I tried one more time to make sure it was all the same before heading and trying at home... It started failing the same way as at my home. Video will play a frame every 2 or 3 seconds, no audio and sometimes not video at all...
I am going to change this adapter, any of you that is having success care to share who did you bought yours from?
Thanks!
OK, no vodeo for me, checking why not.
Applications, settings, location and security, scrool down to find "Disable USB debugging Mode", make sure it is selected.
Fernandq said:
Applications, settings, location and security, scrool down to find "Disable USB debugging Mode", make sure it is selected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Figured it out prolly while u were typing. LOL
Got video and good sound, works with AnyNET+
Im happy for you. Where did you got yours from? I am expecting anoter adapter tomorrow from a different company and it is also supposed to work with anynet+. The seller that sold me this one just returned my money and told me I did not have to return it so I still have it. Pending if the other adapter does the same or not...
Got the new one today, it does work on both of the hdtvs at home with no problems. Anynet does not seems to work on the 20 some inches tv but It does work for my camcorder. At work it didnt work right until I turn off/on the phone, then it stopped working when I tried again after the phone went idle and I switched the monitor to the pc while I was working a trouble. Now it wont work at work even after a reboot. I get that one frame per every2 seconds problem. I am going from a hdmi cable to a dvi connector but it did worked fine before..

No sound in Lapdock 100

I just bought a Lapdock 100 and everything seemed to work; but I realize that there's no sound from the lapdock.
I've tried playing music and videos, having volume set to max, and it doesn't work. The player shows that there's a song/video playing but I can't hear anything.
I tried with a factory reset, using stock EU ROM, in case it was a software problem, but still don't work. And if someone calls me, the ringtone will sound from the phone; not from the lapdock (I don't know if it should be this way)
If a connect the headphones at the same time it's connected to the lapdock, then the sound works through the headphones.
I also have tried to connect the phone via hdmi cable to my TV, and the sound works, so the hdmi slot from my phone is not damaged.
Does anybody know what could be the problem? Could it be related to the fact that the Lapdock is from Verizon? (it would be strange I think)
Thanks!
Well I'm no android expert to say the least but I have a lapdock 500 and sometimes when I connect my phone the audio through the lapdock speakers is distorted.
The way I fix my audio problems is I disconnect the phone, play a song in phone mode, pause, connect the phone to the lapdock, and then when I start playing the song again on the lapdock it's fixed.
If that doesn't fix your problem then you should try hooking another device up to the lapdock to see if the speakers work. I know it might seem odd but turns out that any version of the lapdock product line can actually be used as an external monitor for any device with HDMI. All you need is an HDMI female to HDMI micro male adapter and an HDMI micro female to HDMI micro female adapter and with a regular sized HDMI you can hook up any device that supports HDMI to your lapdock.

Aux Cable / Headphone Bug

So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
geetee360 said:
So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recall having an issue with my samsung headphones. They didn't work at one point, I rebooted and they were fine. The phone didn't even detect them for some reason. I've had no issues with aux in my car (aside from needing a new cable), however I thought it would be worth mentioning that my Note 2 had an issue with aux when it is on any AOSP ROMs. Selecting any app, even swiping the notification window down, sometimes even just leaving the music app and going back will stop the music from playing. The only solution for this was to go to the home screen unplug the aux start music playing and plug the cable back in and touch no other app. Again, it never did this with stock. I even went back to stock briefly because of this. AOSP seems to throw a fit with the aux cables.
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
infernosoft said:
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just want my G3 to work as it should for such a simple function as the headphone jack/aux port.
I want to listen to music in my car without fannying around with different cables etc etc.
I had a Galaxy Note and S4, both played fine in the same car with the same cabling.
Shame on LG for releasing us a substandard product that cannot perform the most basic of tasks correctly.
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
R2DeeTard said:
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My first feeling was confusion. I was also worried my headphones wouldn't work. But I was able to watch a beautiful high def video on my phone last night with my headphones on
Sent from my LGLS990
I just got this phone too, and although I love it, I was very sad to have this issue! I haven't had it on any other phone I have owned, so I certainly hope it is fixed in a future update. That and the video force close bug, but that is for another thread!
Guys, there is nothing wrong with the AUX port on your cars -- and they don't trigger via sound. They trigger via either conductive circuitry or via ohm load. Can you test if you are still seeing these problems when *not* charging? This issue is typically related to bad grounds. This happens to me at work when my phone is charging and I plug my headphones directly into my G3. If I pass the audio to my PC first (to the line-in,) and THEN to my headphones, the static is mostly gone.
So try unplugging the power source, and using different aux cables. Another factor is try plugging the power source into the same feed as the stereo. Sometimes this isn't that easy though.
What's happening on the back end with the sound changing between songs, etc, is that the audio codec, (the chipset,) is turning off to conserve battery. For me, when the chip turns on, it grounds the 3.5mm port just fine, and when it's off, AND I have power connected with headphones, I can get that whine -- depending on the scenario. So basically, this is by design -- an energy conservation tactic. I would be okay with them leaving the audio chip on the entire time headphones are connected.
Had this problem too and found that as long as I was charging the phone it would play like it should.
Yep, grounding issue. At work, routing the aux signal through my PC works just fine WHILE charging -- if I unplug, then I get all the machine noise.
In general, though, the headphone output is pretty crappy on this device. Even when it's "working great," there is still a faint amount of white noise that can be heard. Much higher than my HTC M7. The S5 had similar performance as the G3 though.
I just bought:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANDHBNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And plugged it into:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F474DVG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So when I get in my car, it connects to the dongle for music and the car's blue tooth for phone.
It's not perfect, but gets the job done.
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just purchased this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406313911&sr=8-1&keywords=kensington+noise+reducing+car+audio+aux+cable
Working pretty well. Mainly solves the connectivity issues.
Still have the pop between tracks but it's much better.
Still have the "computer talk" garbage noise related to the display coming through the left channel.
I can live with this until LG or Android comes up with a fix.
aux problem
I guess I lucked out with my phone but then again maybe not. First off I will describe my setup, I have a 05 Subaru WRX with stock 6cd changer head unit ( no aux port ) I installed a Harmon Kardon Drive + Play iPod dock. This allows me to remote control my iPod and comes with a display that shows tracks and such. It works by FM transmitter but has an optional wire which I have that connects directly between the antenna and the stereo so you get little to no loss of signal. Between the AUX and my phone I connected a PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise device. My previous phone was an LG Optimus G which I loved, when I hooked this phone up I could listen to Pandora/TuneinRadio through my car speakers and upon making/receiving a call I would hear the call through the car speakers and when I talked the phone mic. would pick up my voice. When I attempt this with the G3 I get no popping between tracks but the phone mutes the mic and when I say mute I don't mean the mute button comes on I mean the other person can't hear me. I found if I unplug and plug the phone in during the call eventually the mic works again, but to do this while driving defeats the purpose of hands free calling. Does anyone else have this problem? (or a solution).
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gorillaz1 said:
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Works for me, thank you.
Mines does not work at all, with headphones or aux Jack, now I have to get Bluetooth headphones and bluetooth radio for car
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Do we know if LG is working on this issue? Or if it is something that can even be fixed with an update? I'm getting tired of messing with the cable just to play music in my car, and I don't want to have to buy extra accessories to get the job done.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Srambo217 said:
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They fixed it with ZV6. If you're already on ZV6 then I have no idea.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app

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