Some people seem to be interested in driving the charging at higher than 500mAh with non-B&N charger.
I am in no way responsible if the code here is going to fry your nook or cause any other problems! You take the risk, if it breaks, you get to hold both pieces.
So, if you are still interested
Get the v2 usbhost kernel at http://nook.handhelds.ru/usbhost/update-CM7-green-usbhost-2-emmc.zip
Get a charger control tool: http://nook.handhelds.ru/usbhost/NookChargerControl.apk
The tool is pretty minimalistic. It shows you various states of charger inputs and outputs (see datasheet here, the status lines are named in the same way). Touch the text to make it refresh.
There is also a toggle button that would allow you to attempt to draw ~1.9 A (less in reality) regardless of your power source and cable.
The 1.9A value is hardwired in the hardware, so no way for changing it, we only have 3 steps possible: 100mA, 500mA and 1.9A
My limited testing indicates that B&N cable combines the usb vbus and DC in pins. If you use normal cable, this does not happen, though.
There was some discussion about how if you try to drive 1.9A over standard microUSB socket, it might not be strong enough.
Pokey9000 did some digging and it seems typical microUSB connectors are rated for 1.8A if I remember right, so it should be fine. Additionally he performed some testing of charging current here and even 1.9A is never reached it seems.
I don't know if you still can have 1.9A draw when ~DOK is high (meaning no DC charger detected) - this is for somebody with a proper equipment to detect.
I personally don't even have any other 2A chargers, so I have not tired it at all.
If you decide to try this stuff, let us all know what happens.
You are a machine verygreen!!!!
Thank you for all the new releases!
The app doesn't seem to work for me, i just installed the usb host kernel over nightly 87. the button always stays off and never turns on, no matter what i do. And charging current was still 500mA.
my values were DCM 0 IUSB 500mA everything else was one, and it stayed that way.
rigy73 said:
The app doesn't seem to work for me, i just installed the usb host kernel over nightly 87. the button always stays off and never turns on, no matter what i do. And charging current was still 500mA.
my values were DCM 0 IUSB 500mA everything else was one, and it stayed that way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whoops! Copy&Paste error.
Please fetch updated app at the same address and install it again (no kernel changes)
Well i took the risk and tried the app but sadly it didn't work, using b&n charger and standard micro usb the current remains the same, i was getting a total current charge to be -31mA coz of the usage alongside. So nook is still taking only 500mA.
rigy73 said:
Well i took the risk and tried the app but sadly it didn't work, using b&n charger and standard micro usb the current remains the same, i was getting a total current charge to be -31mA coz of the usage alongside. So nook is still taking only 500mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm, that's strange.
In the app do you see ~DOK as 0 with B&N cable?
Do you see DCM as 1 when you force the high power charging?
Did you try B&N cable, but 3rd party charger?
In high mode charging dcm=1 dok=1
I dont have a b&n cable to test, mine broke a long time ago, so i only hv b&n charger and standard micro, that i can get here.
rigy73 said:
In high mode charging dcm=1 dok=1
I dont have a b&n cable to test, mine broke a long time ago, so i only hv b&n charger and standard micro, that i can get here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess the charger itself is refusing to charge at high mode when no "DC" power is present (dok=1). The datasheet seems to be somewhat vague in this respect, so I am not sure if this is what is supposed to happen or not.
DCM=1 is the request to ask the charger to draw full 1.9A.
BTW: if you are in US (no idea what is GGN), you can bring your broken cable to a nearby B&N store and they'd help you exchange it (All Nook Colors are under warranty still since the warranty is for 1 year).
No am not in US, thats why i cant get another cable, also talked to b&N about sending me one but they say they can only send me one on a U.S. address and i can have it shipped from there.
i also did another test with different charger (exactly same results) but it was rated at .15A only.
Sorry for the Bump , but is this app discontinued? the link seems to be down
I live outside the US and facing troubles with my nook cable
It seems to charge with the original cable and charger at 500ma for some reason ( 10% in a hour aprox. )
I hope it's a software problem and I'm planning to do a full wipe and test it ( messed with nook tweaks and usb host with external vbus that could mess things up I think )
But I came across this thread and maybe this will help me to diagnose..
I only have my nook for about 1-2 weeks , and the cable tip is still intact and it did charge at 2A rate before ( I think )
The light on cable is lit with orange color as it should
Can the cable be broken without physically be broken?
It really sucks to get a new one now since I have to ship it to a friend in the US ( do you know of any international sellers? )
Edit :
A little more info - Spare Parts report Charging ( USB )
again , this is with the original cable and charger
Any chance of reposting the files?
I would like to try them.
would be nice to see this (in the near future) included in stock CM7 kernel
It doesn't work. Did you not read the thread?
Sent from my NookColor using XDA Premium App
well here are the files for those asking, but as u know it doesn't work.
Thanks for the files
I need help from the pro's in diagnosing what the hell is going on with my charging
So I installed the charger mode control , here is what happen :
1.The original cable + charger were connected to the nook - Spare Parts showed USB charging
2.I enabled "force 1.9a" - still USB charging
3.Disconnected cable at the tip
4.Reconnected cable - AC charging
5.Disconnected -> Reconnected - USB charging again , tried a number of reconnecting and still USB
6.Tried to reproduce AC charging with "force 1.9A" on off - No Luck ( about 20-30 re-connections of the physical cable or even charger from the wall , I stopped because I was afraid it would cause damage )
7.Tried a couple more time to switch "force 1.9A" on and off again - still only shows USB
8.Left it a couple of minutes ( checked the logs )
9.Enabled "force 1.9a" and voila! - again AC charger detected
Now , It's too inconsistent for me to figure out why its happening so I hope you can find out something from my logs that can help
I'm not sure if the app did any effect on this issue and I don't wish to test it more if I don't get any more data out of it...
But , I would be willing to do a more "controlled" test and logs , just let me know what you need
Here is the last log that shows the change ( force 1.9a while charger is identified as USB , disconnecting and reconnecting the cable - identified as AC )
Code:
<4>max8903_charger_enable: dtct_status 0x04
<4>max8903_charger_enable: B&N USB CHARGER(500mA) Detected!
<4>MAX8903: Charging is now enabled!
<6>kxtf9 1-000f: IRQ TAP1 [1]
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: HW_CONDITIONS 0x70/112; link 0
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: twl4030_phy_suspend: FUNC_CTRL 0x48
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: twl4030_phy_suspend
<4>max8903_charger_enable: dtct_status 0x00
<4>MAX8903: Charging is now disabled!
<4>Charger Unplugged!
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: USB_DTCT_CTRL=04
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: HW_CONDITIONS 0xf0/240; link 1
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: USB_DTCT_CTRL=04
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: HW_CONDITIONS 0xf0/240; link 1
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: twl4030_usb_set_mode: ULPI mode
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: twl4030_phy_resume
<4>max8903_charger_enable: dtct_status 0x04
<4>max8903_charger_enable: B&N USB CHARGER(500mA) Detected!
<4>MAX8903: Charging is now enabled!
<4>max8903_charger_enable: dtct_status 0x00
<4>max8903_charger_enable: B&N USB CHARGER(500mA) Detected!
<4>Forcing high power charging
<4>MAX8903: Charging is already enabled!
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: HW_CONDITIONS 0x70/112; link 0
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: twl4030_phy_suspend: FUNC_CTRL 0x48
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: twl4030_phy_suspend
<4>max8903_charger_enable: dtct_status 0x00
<4>MAX8903: Charging is now disabled!
<4>Charger Unplugged!
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: USB_DTCT_CTRL=08
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: HW_CONDITIONS 0xf0/240; link 3
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: USB_DTCT_CTRL=08
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: HW_CONDITIONS 0xf0/240; link 3
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: twl4030_usb_set_mode: ULPI mode
<7>twl4030_usb twl4030_usb: twl4030_phy_resume
<6>kxtf9 1-000f: IRQ TAP1 [4]
<4>max8903_charger_enable: dtct_status 0x08
<4>max8903_charger_enable: D+/D- shorted
<4>max8903_charger_enable: B&N WALL CHARGER(2A) Detected!
<4>MAX8903: Charging is now enabled!
<6>kxtf9 1-000f: IRQ TAP1 [1]
Values at Nook Charge Control :
Code:
DCM - 0 ( OFF ) , 1 ( ON )
IUSB - 500mA
~DOK - 0
~CEN - 0
USUS - 0
~UOK - 0
~CHG - 1
Can anyone help me trace the problem?
Is it the charger / cable / software?
Edit :
Here is another log just for the charges so you can see the frequency
http://pastebin.com/bi7sFcud
You can try to manually short D+/D- in the B&N cable see if that solves anything for you. Coz logs seem to detect D+/D- shorted and then starts the AC charging.
It can't be software gotta be charger or cable.
Also, were u able to achieve ac charging without this app or kernel.
People have posted some threads for uncovering truth about B&N cable, take a look at those threads, and find out which color is D+ and which is D-, there was discussion about it in a usb host thread too, don't remember which thread that was though.
For that I need to cut the original cable or get an extension and cut it
The question is , Does high speed charging work with an usb extension?
Also if it was really about the D+/D- shorted , it should be consistent and not once in a while but its defiantly on my to-do list
Thanks
Related
Hey guys I have burned my mUSB port by connecting some chinese charger. I have read the forums but found nothing that could help me.
Symptoms: no reaction from pc and phone when I plug in the cable, charging is too slow.
How to fix:
1. Take a multimeter and check whether there is a short circuit between all contacts in USB cable.
2. If there is a short circuit beetwen data+/- and ground you have to remove the folowing IC
this IC is burned when +5V are connected to data+/- contact and give the symptoms not connected to PC.
This solution only worked for me, do at your own risk!
UP! This is usefull
Isn`t it IC PM7250?
Remember time, when I was forced to resolder it
Its fsusb30
Low-Power, Two-Port, High-Speed USB 2.0 (480Mbps) Switch
Hey guys,
I just bought a solar USB Hub (with white LEDs as a torch) from Ebay and combined it with the OTG Cable to have a portable USB Hub.(no need for AC adapter except charging the hub from time to time) I had to do a little mod to prevent Evo draining the battery of the hub to charge itself. If you decide to do the same thing, when you cut the OTG cable and original hub cable, there are 4 wires, you only connect black, white and green, leave red disconnected. This way the hub doesn't provide power to the phone (otherwise you can use it only for 2 minutes or so). I then disabled automatic mounting of USB devices (despite unmounting it in terminal properly, unmounting always gave error: unexpected USB device disconnect) and used USB OTG helper v4.0 to mount and unmount. Everything is great now
ozkaya said:
Hey guys,
I just bought a solar USB Hub (with white LEDs as a torch) from Ebay and combined it with the OTG Cable to have a portable USB Hub.(no need for AC adapter except charging the hub from time to time) I had to do a little mod to prevent Evo draining the battery of the hub to charge itself. If you decide to do the same thing, when you cut the OTG cable and original hub cable, there are 4 wires, you only connect black, white and green, leave red disconnected. This way the hub doesn't provide power to the phone (otherwise you can use it only for 2 minutes or so). I then disabled automatic mounting of USB devices (despite unmounting it in terminal properly, unmounting always gave error: unexpected USB device disconnect) and used USB OTG helper v4.0 to mount and unmount. Everything is great now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WoW!
How You got Your Evo charging in OTG mode??
I have modified 2-port portable charger Bliss PowerBank u12000 and stock microusb<=>usb cable (NOT otg cable), and when I turn HOST mode on by running
PHP:
echo host > /sys/kernel/debug/msm_otg/mode
my Evo stop charging, but start detecting other USB devices plugged in another port of charger (I have connected same pins inside it and unsoldered all other resistors between them).
And, uhh... where can one buy this said solar powered usb hub? I haven't found anything on google
posedatull said:
And, uhh... where can one buy this said solar powered usb hub? I haven't found anything on google
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not the same model, but here's one on eBay. Also available on Amazon.
And here's the one from the OP of this thread. It even has a flashlight. Also available on Amazon or eBay.
ramjet73
S-trace said:
WoW!
How You got Your Evo charging in OTG mode??
I have modified 2-port portable charger Bliss PowerBank u12000 and stock microusb<=>usb cable (NOT otg cable), and when I turn HOST mode on by running
PHP:
echo host > /sys/kernel/debug/msm_otg/mode
my Evo stop charging, but start detecting other USB devices plugged in another port of charger (I have connected same pins inside it and unsoldered all other resistors between them).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
are you saying that you use a usb charger to support OTG and charge when not used as OTG ?
that u12000 unit would be great if you did what i ask about..
i realize it does not support OTG + charging at the same time..
i have an HP Touchpad that i would like to apply the mods from this thread.
tahnx
I have some HP TP otg mods and a USB charger mod (others too) that you might, be interested in...
[MOD] Self Powered USB OTG on the HP Touchpad! (v2 Full Size) 11-30-12
Also check out: [Tips and Tricks] OTG (USB Host Support) - Requires kernel support
Edit: It looks like you found it.
Here's a similar one http://amzn.com/B0084JVMBU but I don't see a spec for the battery capacity & charge rate (might be 700mah).
mpgrimm2 said:
OK I see what he did with the charger. It uses an adapter (host) cable to go from the main hub port to the PC (mini-USB to full size USB-A).
It looks like he spliced the micro-USB OTG cable (pin 4&5 shorted) to a mini-USB cable, and made a custom OTG Host cable. He mentions he disconnected/broke the +5v wire to prevent it charging the phone due to the small battery in it (understandable). I wouldn't do that myself, but I'd also ideally want a 3000-4000mah Solar Hub to modify for OTG & keeping the phone/tablet charged.
Have a look at my OTG cable schematics in reference post 9 above, particularly cable 1.
Sent from my "Up all night, sleep all day" HP CM9 Touchpad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
amkaos said:
are you saying that you use a usb charger to support OTG and charge when not used as OTG ?
that u12000 unit would be great if you did what i ask about..
i realize it does not support OTG + charging at the same time..
i have an HP Touchpad that i would like to apply the mods from this thread.
tahnx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I'm using u12000 exactly as You described, but asked here about OTG and charging at same time. Just open u12000 and unsolder 4 resistors between USB port pins and it will become perfect powered portable USB gender changer.
Yes, it looks like that our Evo's doesn't support OTG and charging at same time(
S-trace said:
Yes, I'm using u12000 exactly as You described, but asked here about OTG and charging at same time. Just open u12000 and unsolder 4 resistors between USB port pins and it will become perfect powered portable USB gender changer.
Yes, it looks like that our Evo's doesn't support OTG and charging at same time(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where is the link to this "u12000"? I've clicked all the links in this thread and don't see anything that lists that item/model #.
Also, by removing the resistors (between D+ and D- lines), you've "likely" limited the output the phone will charge at to 500ma, where as shorted together (or small load b/w) it will usually allow the device to charge at it's max allowed rate. Hopefully you are already aware of this.
mpgrimm2 said:
Where is the link to this "u12000"? I've clicked all the links in this thread and don't see anything that lists that item/model #.
Also, by removing the resistors (between D+ and D- lines), you've "likely" limited the output the phone will charge at to 500ma, where as shorted together (or small load b/w) it will usually allow the device to charge at it's max allowed rate. Hopefully you are already aware of this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bliss Power Bank U12000 - just google it and find internet shop to buy it.
Yes, You are right, removing those resistors limited default charging current to 0.5A, but I'm using latest FastCharge kernel patch and in smart mode it using full 1A to charge, with no side effects. I just tested mine U12000 and found that it can produce 2.25A in short-circuit on USB, it rated as 2A => fully follow its specifications. It can charge stock Evo 3D's battery up to 3.5 times with fully charged U12000 battery.
mpgrimm2 said:
Where is the link to this "u12000"? I've clicked all the links in this thread and don't see anything that lists that item/model #.
Also, by removing the resistors (between D+ and D- lines), you've "likely" limited the output the phone will charge at to 500ma, where as shorted together (or small load b/w) it will usually allow the device to charge at it's max allowed rate. Hopefully you are already aware of this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"Where is the link to this "u12000"?" .. i googled Bliss PowerBank u12000 and found it.. today i couldnt find english page..
i am still unclear if any charger is easily modded to provide OTG data transfer.. if so, would it still charge when not connected to a OTG cable?
amkaos said:
i am still unclear if any charger is easily modded to provide OTG data transfer.. if so, would it still charge when not connected to a OTG cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, mine Bliss u12000 charging Evo 3D when Evo 3D is not in OTG mode (connected via STOCK cable, NOT via OTG or so). But when I turn on OTG mode on Evo it stop charging but start detecting other USB devices connected to another port of u12000.
I don't know if any charger can be easily modded, but I think if it has 2 USB ports one above another (like =) and NOT side by side (like - -)
- it can be modded (of course if You can disassemble it).
S-trace said:
But when I turn on OTG mode on Evo it stop charging but start detecting other USB devices connected to another port of u12000.
I don't know if any charger can be easily modded, but I think if it has 2 USB ports one above another (like =) and NOT side by side (like - -)
- it can be modded (of course if You can disassemble it).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont have evo phone so i ask :: do you enable OTG from the phone Or by just using the OTG cable.. or both actions?
also, i tried to find an English site . have you seen one ?
thanx
amkaos said:
i dont have evo phone so i ask :: do you enable OTG from the phone Or by just using the OTG cable.. or both actions?
also, i tried to find an English site . have you seen one ?
thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm enabling it on phone using terminal emulator (look behind in this thread and You will see exactly how).
No, I didn't seen English site, sorry. I'm from Russia.
mpgrimm2 said:
Where is the link to this "u12000"? I've clicked all the links in this thread and don't see anything that lists that item/model #.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
amkaos said:
"Where is the link to this "u12000"?" .. i googled Bliss PowerBank u12000 and found it.. today i couldnt find english page..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's the link to the Bliss PowerBank U12000. I translated that page to English in Chrome and the specs are attached, but I don't think Bliss ships outside Russia.
There are many battery based USB chargers available from other sources, including this 12000mAh solar model from usb.brando.com, the same website that has the solar 4-port hub in the OP of this thread. They are Hong Kong based and ship world wide, and their website is available in many languages, including Russian.
If you search for "usb charger" or "usb solar charger' on their site you will find many more models with varying capacities, most of which are probably available on eBay as well.
ramjet73
So...I get home one morning, I'm sitting at 7%... and I forgot my AC Plug at work. I'm right in the middle of doing a lot of tweaking/benchmarking, basically stuck in 'phone mode'...I plug into my computer and the notorious "You're draining more current than the charger is supplying" hits... So I start searching for some way to increase that. I noticed that my ASROCK motherboard on my home computer had some software that let me increase the charging rate of the USB ports.. it was awesome, because I constantly plug in there and it would barely supply enough juice to keep me hacking away at the phone.
At work on my laptop, I was doing some research.. it appears every major motherboard manufacturer has some type of utility like this! They seem pretty hardware specific, but they seem to support a pretty wide range of their line-up.
Now, I do want to say use this at your own risk because extra power IS extra power. I'm pretty confident that the majority of USB hardware out in the wild right now (as long as you're using at least a half-modern desktop or laptop) is *probably* capable of supplying the current for this, but I just want to put that out there. If you decide to use this (on hardware that is obviously not supported), it's at your own risk. I haven't heard/seen much trouble from it, though... I've been using it for a couple days now and it's a lifesaver at work when I forgot my AC plug. If you have hardware from a given manufacturer, then I'd suggest you use their version (check who makes your mainboard for bigbox laptops/desktops)
Also, Faux's ICS Kernel supports forcing AC charging on any USB plug. I do not recommend doing any data transfer while doing this. I would wouldn't recommend using this on old hardware... actually you'd probably be better off only using it on USB 3.0 ports only, but I've successfully using Force AC charge mode on my laptop with only USB 2.0 ports without issue for a couple months now. You can enable this with a shell script, I personally use a Tasker shortcut with a task set up that does the command [IF %FCSTATE = 0] ( echo 1 > /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ) checks to make sure it's enabled ( cat /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ) puts the return into a variable ( %FCSTATE ), makes a sound, then places a permanent notification in the statusbar, and a 3s pop-up that notifies me it's been turned on (with an IF condition verifying that it is indeed turned on, IF %FCSTATE = 1)... second part of teh tasker shortcut is [ ELSE IF %FCSTATE = 1 ] ( echo 0 > /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ), check to make sure it's disabled ( cat /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ), put the state into a variable (%FCSTATE), make a different sound, remove the notification, and a pop-up window telling me fast-charge is off. The sound/popup/notification all have IF %FCSTATE = 0.. be ensure that it's off. The cat script places the return value into %FCSTATE. Force AC charging mode is truly useful for pesky car chargers that won't give their full current and are detected as USB instead of AC. There's actually a "safe mode" implemented into Faux's kernel now that will prevent Forced AC charging when there's a USB peripheral detected, which will prevent forced AC charging on on USB 2.0/3.0 ports that are on a computer/laptop etc. This is a good setting if you're only using Forced AC charging for a crappy car charger or some other "dumb" device. You can invoke this mode with [ echo 2 > /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge ]
Be careful with forcing AC charge on older hardware etc, again I don't personally recommend using it on USB 2.0 ports, USB 2.0 is rated to a maximum safe current of a Standard downstream port of 500mA, USB 3.0 is 900mA. This is why you don't want to force fast_charge on a USB 2.0 Standard downstream port. (I do it, but I'm willing to accept the risk... it has worked for me, it might completely ruin your hardware. Use at your own risk) There's also Charging downstream ports, these can handle up to .9A (2.0/3.0) (During high-speed data transfer.), they can provide more than that when there's no data transfer going on, but we don't need much more than that honestly, with no data transfer going on these can provide anywhere from 1A-2A, depeneding on the device. These type of ports are found on desktop computers pretty often. There's also Dedicated Charging Ports, these are the ports you find on wall-plugs, car-chargers, etc. These provide anywhere from 500mA-2A, whatever the actually device is rated. You can find out if the port you're connected to is a Standard downstream port, a Downstream charging port, or a dedicated charging port by calling a read-only sysfs file with this shell command, [ cat /sys/kernel/fast_charge/USB_porttype_detected ], this will return the type of port you're connected to in plain text. Also, there's a TON of variation in actual USB hardware and true capabilities. There's going to be lots of USB 2.0 ports can can easily supply 900mA of current, but there's no way to know for sure until you ruin some hardware. I just want to stress this because I don't want people using this to force AC charging on shoddy USB 2.0 ports and frying their motherboard or whatever. Lots of people using forced AC charging on USB 2.0 ports with great success, just use your judgement.
Here's a list of motherboard manufacturers who offer enhanced charging drivers for their hardware. This is completely different than Forced AC Charging (in Faux's Kernel). Now, I'm not sure if you need to force AC charge with some of these or not.. You probably DO if it's only a USB 2.0 port, because the phone might limit you to 500mA max. I know that with ASROCK's driver/software, I didn't have to force fast charge to see substantial increase in charge current. MSI Advertises on their site that even a USB 2.0 port is capable of up to 1.5A of current with their Super Charger, and other manufacturer's are similar. I wouldn't be too concerned about forcing AC charging if you have hardware that's supported by any of this software. Please check the manufacturer's website, etc.
ASUS AiCharger] (Supposedly only works on APPLE devices, mixed reports. No idea on this one)
MSI Supercharger
Gigabyte ON/OFF Charge
ASRock AppCharger
Biostar Charger Booster
ECS EZ Charger
Foxxconn offers a program called "Smart Charger", but they don't have an advertisement page and it's included with drivers/etc for their motherboards, so I'd check their main site if you have a Foxconn board.
I've personally only used the ASRock AppCharger and ASUS AiCharger.. your mileage may vary, use at your own risk etc etc etc. I've just found this to be immensely useful and I wanted to share. . Some people do report noticeably slower data transfer rates after the installation of these programs (which I would attribute to noise from power on the line, I guess), so keep that in mind. Not everyone experiences this (I sure didn't)
Check it with CurrentWidget, Android Tuner(This is Battery Monitor Widget and System Tuner rolled into 1 app, same people who make both of them), or Battery Monitor Widget... you'll see a huge difference in the amount of current you get from USB (Our Amaze does support current draw reporting, so the number you get from these isn't exactly an estimate. I wouldn't call it super accurate, but it's a pretty good representation of ingoing/outgoing current from the battery. Great for finding out battery drain etc)
Hope you guys get as much use out of these as I do!
Setup the gigabyte on/off charge is installed on my 970 ud3
If I remember right my motherboard has x3 power boost on the usb 2.0 ports and usb 3.0 is already has a higher voltage over 2.0
Sent From HTC Amaze 4G Via Tapatalk2
Some kernels for the Evo 3D on XDA now have On-The-Go (OTG) USB host support built-in so it's very easy to support USB peripherals such as keyboards, mice, flash drives and portable hard drives from your phone regardless of the ROM installed. If you would like more information about OTG, here's a very good thread in the XDA Sensation forum that covers it pretty well.
The commands to mount and unmount USB storage devices manually are covered in that thread, but I've found the easiest way to mount and dismount my flash drive is to use an app called [root]StickMount from Chainfire, the developer of SuperSU. Depending on the ROM installed, it may not be considered compatible and won't show in the Play Store, so I've attached the .apk in case that happens.
I haven't used devices other than flash drives so far on my phone, but other users have indicated that keyboards, mice and other USB devices also work. If you are using OTG to attach any type of USB devices, please share your experiences and any tips you might have. Also, please use this thread for any questions you might have about OTG support and devices, even if you haven't gotten around to trying it yourself yet.
Other XDA threads about OTG related stuff:
Solar powered USB hub (kinda cool)
usb otg cradle
Nitty gritty OTG hardware discussion
Post with diagram of OTG connections
Thanks to mpgrimm2 for suggesting that we share this information from another site (there's actually more over there ).
ramjet73
I want to thank Markmx6 for his guide on another site that was easy for me to follow to make my own OTG cable and Ramjet73 for digging up and posting his links here. Maybe Markmx6 will add his info over here now too since all this works with the Buttered Toast Kernel (bigwillyg).
I got to looking around and wondering with the parts I have if I am setup for OTG and just need to plug everything together without hacking up a power supply which I'd prefer not to do.
Here's what I have on hand:
I ohmed out the " CrazyOnDigital 2 port charger's" data pins:
Port1-pin3 & port2-pin3 = 0.1 ohms (and about 30k to gnd/shld)
Port1-pin2 & port2-pin2 = 0.1 ohms (and about 30k to gnd/shld)
(I also reversed the leads in case I was reading through a diode)
So it looks like the data pins on this aren't shorted together and that it will function as a Powered USB "y" cable/pass through between ports 1 & 2.
Part 2
I realize that my purchased USB OTG cable won't plug in between the charger & my phone so I may use a USB extension Cable and USB A to A adapter that I have (not pictured) or I may just hack a spare USB A to Micro USB (5pin) cable that I have into another OTG Cable.
Q: My understanding is that an OTG cable has the ID pin (pin 4 of the 5pin Micro) tied to Gnd, like Markmx6 did in his original cable; correct? So, that's why the micro USB end gets cut open a bit.
A: Yes.
----------------------------------------------------------------
My Additional References:
Zoom [DIY] MicroUSB Host Cable
So in a normal micro/mini USB cable, there are 4 wires, 5 pins.
1. Red - V+
2. White - Data -
3. Green - Data +
4. Empty
5. Black - Ground
That micro male to mini female cable above has the 4th (5th?) wire, brown. This is the ID wire. Shorted to ground, it makes the cable a host cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wikipedia's: USB On-The-Go page
The OTG cable has a micro-A plug on one side, and a micro-B plug on the other (it cannot have two plugs of the same type). OTG adds a fifth pin to the standard USB connector, called the ID-pin; the micro-A plug has the ID pin grounded, while the ID in the micro-B plug is floating. The device that has a micro-A plugged in becomes an OTG A-device, and the one that has micro-B plugged becomes a B-device. The type of the plug inserted is detected by the state of the pin ID .
Three additional ID pin states are defined[4] at the nominal resistance values of 124 kΩ, 68 kΩ, and 36.5 kΩ, with respect to the ground pin. These permit the device to work with a USB Accessory Charger Adapter which allows the OTG device to be attached to both a charger and another device simultaneously.[6]
These three states are used in the cases of:
- A charger and either no device or an A-device that is not asserting VBUS (not providing power) are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and initiate SRP but not connect.[6]
- A charger and an A-device that is asserting VBUS (is providing power) are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and connect but not initiate SRP.[6]
- A charger and a B-device are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and enter host mode.[6]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Micro-USB connector pinout
-----------------------------------------------------
Part3: SUCCESS! (with Otg Enabled kernel)
I went ahead and modified a spare USB A to Micro B cable for OTG without power. Plugged everything up with my Logitech Wireless USB mouse and it works! Cool as can be! See new pics. (Yellow wire is the Jumper).
Still have a few questions:
Q: Would the "purchased" OTG Cable already have pin 4 & 5 Shorted?
A: YES it should, but one of the cables I bought was defective.
Q: Does your OTG setup from the op charge the phone at the same time (and/or keep it charged)?
A: Yes
Edit: Apparently I broke the +5v wire during reassembling the cable. See next post.
(SEE UPDATED POSTS FARTHER DOWN)
EDIT:
In Relation to my Following Posts, I have patched together the following cable schematics as a reference to the cables I have either made or purchased.
If you have the ability & willingness to find out what the ID pin resistance is in your "Accessory" device as mentioned below please let me know. I am trying to correlate the info from the Wikipedia/USB OTG reference to all the available ID pin states.
Mpgrimm2; I have a small update from some of my testing regarding the USB OTG 4 ID pin states (pin 4 to pin 5 "gnd" ).
Ininity (Open) = Standard USB data/charge
0 Ω (shorted) = USB OTG host
36.5K Ω = desktop cradle/dock
(my seidio actually has a 47k Ω resistor said:
Anyone want to open their car dock and check the resistor?
Anyone want to open their MHL adapter & check the resistor on that too?[/COLOR]
Wikipedia's: USB On-The-Go page
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's what I've found out or verified:
- I'm still not sure about the 3 different USB OTG ID modes that were mentioned. In the test rig (pictured) for different values of resistance between pin 4 (ID) and pin 5 (gnd):
0 ohm (Short) = USB OTG host
36.5k ohm (47k in use) = Dock Mode
68K ohm (74k in use) = Dock Mode
124k Ohm (127k in use) = No discernible effect
I also determined that my first homemade USB OTG cable wouldn't allow the phone to charge because of a broken +5v wire during reassembly (new one works correctly, but so far I preferred the simplicity of the original setup & charger over the new cable I made, but time will tell.
Here's the Ebay link to the OTG cable RamJet73 recommended (same as the last one I made b/c I didn't want to wait) so that I can keep it linked in one place.
Here are the pictures of the 2nd cable that I made that is "very similar" to the one Ramjet73 mentioned at eBay but 2ft longer (See Schematic #4 in later post).
Keep in mind that the OTG function will be disabled if an OTG cable is plugged into a USB charger that has the data pins shorted internally (AC charging), but this doesn't appear to happen with a powered hub (isolated)
Markmx6's "Homemade Powered OTG Cable" Part 1
I got permission from Markmx6 to repost this here:
Markmx6; said:
First off, I am not responsible for you screwing up your phone, shorting your house out, frying your SD card, burning down your home, or anything else that may or may not occur from you building this...
Tools you will need: Razor blade, Soldering iron, Solder, Super glue.
Optional tools: Dremel with cut-off wheel.
I started with components I imagine you will all have, since they came with the phone. The HTC charging cable and outlet adapter.
First, cut around the base of the outlet adapter. This is around 3/16" thick, and the cut is better off to be made on the "shiny" plastic than the "dull" portion. I used a Dremel, but any type of blade will do, it just may take more time.
Make a cut along the white line on the board (Shown in red here) Otherwise this will not work. On typical chargers they short out the Data+ and the Data- connections (mpg2 edit: it forces "AC Charging" mode). Not sure why... Digging a razor blade across this several times should do the trick, but if you want to make sure with a continuity tester that will always give piece of mind.
Now you need to cut your cable, I recommend leaving around 2" or more from the standard usb side. (A little of this wire will come in handy for later in this project)
Cut and then strip your wires, there will be a braided shielding wire just under the insulation. Then it will be helpful to "Tin" the ends of your wires.
The shielding can be completely removed, or you can ground it out, but I haven't found this to be needed.
You will now need to solder the wires to the circuit board. This will obviously need to be in the correct order.
From the top will be:
RED = 5V+
WHITE = Data +
GREEN = Data -
BLACK = 5V-
Now you can re-assemble the Outlet adapter if you choose.
Now you need to cut up the other (phone) end of your cable to enable the OTG function.
Post 2 will outline this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Markmx6's "Homemade Powered OTG Cable" Part 2
Markmx6; said:
Carefully cut down the sides of the connector, if you can do this in one clean cut it will be helpful when you re-attach then after your modifications.
Carefully cut away the plastic, and what looks like hot glue. You need to expose the side that has a blank terminal. and the one on the other side that has a black wire.
Pins 4 and 5 need to be attached, so a small piece of wire (from the leftover ends of the cable comes in handy) works really well.
It doesn't really show up in the pictures though
Now re-glue the pieces from the end of the cable back onto the connector
That is all.
I am using 3.2.8otg for a kernel and negalite2.9 and otg helper and everything works as it should.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1588979
For usb storage you need to have all of the cables hooked up before you insert the SD card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NOTE: Bigwillig's [Kernel] ButteredToasT ICS RLS 04 | Linux 3.0.46 | linaro 4.7 -o3 | otg | HTC beats also supports OTG with any rom that will boot the kernel.
Sent from my "Up all night, Sleep all day" EVO3D!
Ebay/Applecable Purchased OTG Cable & USB Hub
I just verified that if you get the Micro USB Host OTG Cable With USB power ($6 from AppleCable on Ebay) that Ramjet73 mentioned (or this one), it will work with any standard USB charger (ie the 1 Amp HTC or 2 Amp HP Touchpad Charger) because the USB Power Connector is Isolated. I also picked up Applecable's USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable for $7
(I may try to modify it to be a USB OTG powered hub with this OTG Adapter and this USB to 3.5mm/1.3mm Adapter to power the hub directly from "ANY" USB charger.
EDIT: It works fine, but modified it anyway).
Here's some updated AppleCable Ebay Store links (4-18-14):
Micro USB Host OTG Cable With USB power
USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable (not OTG, but a cheap hub that works. can be modified for OTG)
Micro USB Host OTG Cable w/micro USB power
Left Angled Micro USB Host OTG Cable w/USB power
Right Angled Micro USB Host OTG Cable w/USB power
^^^
been looking for something like this!! post back on your progress
mpgrimm2 said:
I just verified that if you get the Micro USB Host OTG Cable With USB power ($6 from AppleCable on Ebay) that Ramjet73 mentioned (or this one), it will work with any standard USB charger (ie the 1 Amp HTC or 2 Amp HP Touchpad Charger) because the USB Power Connector is Isolated. I also picked up Applecable's USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable for $7 (I may try to modify it to be a USB OTG powered hub with this).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just found out that the version of the OTG cable with the female microUSB connector doesn't charge the phone when power is applied to that connector. The eBay listing at your link above doesn't say one way or the other, but this link was posted on another site and that listing specifically says it doesn't. I'm not sure why that is, but it looks like the same brand (Chen Yang) in both listings.
The version with the male USB A connector for power can definitely charge the phone when in use. I've tested that myself.
ramjet73
Now that I've made a few on my own and bought the one you recommended, I can say it likely has to do with the way that it's wired up. I would bet that the Applecable one with the M & F microUSB allows charging.
Note: I also updated my previous post with a new USB to 3.5mm adapter for the hub. I ordered both adapters (so I don't have to cut/solder mods to the hub) and will report back once I get it. (also picked up a 2nd 3d for my son's b-day coming up so I don't waste an upgrade just yet).
Edited
I just don't get it... Found many usb hubs with internal rechargeable batteries, but all are old posts, not available for sell anymore . Why is it so complicated for Evo 3D to connect usb to it? I really want to connect my Razer Banshees to it, but all this running around to find a usb hub with internal battery is killing me, and having one that works on charger is ilogical, from my point of view. If i want to do this, I want it to be portable, otherwise I'd just connect it to my pc/laptop. I connected them to a Galaxy S3 and they worked instantly. I use Coolexe's ROM and Kernel (v4.0), and it says that it has usb support and usb headset support
posedatull said:
I just don't get it... Found many usb hubs with internal rechargeable batteries, but all are old posts, not available for sell anymore . Why is it so complicated for Evo 3D to connect usb to it? I really want to connect my Razer Banshees to it, but all this running around to find a usb hub with internal battery is killing me, and having one that works on charger is ilogical, from my point of view. If i want to do this, I want it to be portable, otherwise I'd just connect it to my pc/laptop. I connected them to a Galaxy S3 and they worked instantly. I use Coolexe's ROM and Kernel (v4.0), and it says that it has usb support and usb headset support
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unlike Samsung, HTC hasn't officially supported OTG so we are lucky to have some ROM's and kernels that do support it. Even the utilities like stickmount don't download from the Play Store because the Evo 3D is not considered a compatible device.
USB mice and keyboards can work without external power, but many other devices need power and would drain the phone battery very quickly even if they could use it. I have no experience with USB headphones on a phone, but it would make more sense to me to have batteries in the headphones and not depend on the phone for power. Another possibilty may be to use an external battery like this one connected to an OTG adapter that includes a connector for external power, but I haven't test that.
I use rechargeable stereo bluetooth headphones so I don't have to mess with cables at all, but if you prefer the USB headphones the options may be more limited with the Evo 3D than the SGS3.
ramjet73
Between the items Ramjet73 and I have mentioned in previous posts (edited below), you should be able to piece together the functionality you are looking for, but still not ideal as far as portability. Markmx6 has mentioned making his own "D" battery powered usb hub (I think) that he may post here sometime. Hope this helps.
mpgrimm2 said:
I also picked up
this USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable for $7
this OTG Adapter
this USB to 3.5mm/1.3mm Adapter to power the hub directly from a USB port/charger).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ramjet73 said:
Another possibilty may be to use an external battery
like Rechargeable USB Universal Battery connected to an OTG adapter that includes a connector for external power, but I haven't tested that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good find Ramjet73! Got me thinking about options again, just waiting on my parts to get here. Mind if I paste this into the other sites thread?
Saw this app posted in the Buttered Toast thread and may give it a try for NTFS support:
mnomaanw said:
You can mount NTFS drives with this App ----> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.paragon.mounter&hl=en
I think it can mount exFAT also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
posedatull said:
I just don't get it... Found many usb hubs with internal rechargeable batteries, but all are old posts, not available for sell anymore . Why is it so complicated for Evo 3D to connect usb to it? I really want to connect my Razer Banshees to it, but all this running around to find a usb hub with internal battery is killing me, and having one that works on charger is ilogical, from my point of view. If i want to do this, I want it to be portable, otherwise I'd just connect it to my pc/laptop. I connected them to a Galaxy S3 and they worked instantly. I use Coolexe's ROM and Kernel (v4.0), and it says that it has usb support and usb headset support
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I built a 4 port charger using four "D" batteries for a trip I took to Disney world (five kids on a six hour flight.... required someway to recharge Nooks, cell phones, and etc)
To break it down simply I used a four battery holder. (Apparently I don't have enough posts to post links, pull up radioshacks website and search for "D" battery holder)
You don't need "D" batteries as these are bulky, I used them because size wasn't really a factor. "AA" or "AAA" batteries should be fine. Remember Alkaline batteries provide 1.5 volts each NiCad (Older rechargeable) 1.2 volts There are newer voltages to my knowledge...
I used four batteries because it produces 6 volts in series. MAY POSSIBLY DAMAGE YOUR PHONE
Ideally you would provide 5 volts which is what USB provides, I find 6 volts worked fine for me.
For my charger I shorted the DATA +/- terminals together to fool the phone into believing it was using AC power for a faster charge.
All you really need to do to continue to use the hub as a Data transfer device would be to solder the red and black wires to their respective terminals on the hub, it shouldn't matter which port you use as they should all be linked, other hubs may vary.
You may also be able to just wire a female USB port onto the battery holder and use a hub plugged into that...
My CrazyOnDigital 2 port charger doesn't have the data pins shorted (D+ and D-) like the stock HTC unit. This causes any "Android" phone to charge at the lower 500ma Max "Charging USB" rate vs "AC Charging" (explains my slow charging when travelling), but a bonus is that it allows me to pass data b/w the 2 ports like a simple hub.
- If the D+ and D- pins are shorted when an OTG USB cable is plugged in, the phone will go into "AC Charging" mode, but not allow OTG devices to work, but if the phone is still connected and the data pins opened back up, you retain "AC Charging" mode and have USB OTG functions.
(I'm thinking that a simple on/off switch installed across the data pins of my charger will give me a dual mode charger).
---------------------------------------------------------
AC CHARGING / USB CHARGING (Data Pass Through) MOD 12-1-12
- I got tired of having a 2 port 2 Amp charger that only allowed 500ma "USB Charging" with Android & OTG. See pix:
mpgrimm2 said:
I just verified that if you get the Micro USB Host OTG Cable With USB power ($6 from AppleCable on Ebay) that Ramjet73 mentioned (or this one), it will work with any standard USB charger (ie the 1 Amp HTC or 2 Amp HP Touchpad Charger) because the USB Power Connector is Isolated. I also picked up Applecable's USB 2.0 3 Port Hub with data Sync Charger cable for $7
(I may try to modify it to be a USB OTG powered hub with this OTG Adapter and this USB to 3.5mm/1.3mm Adapter to power the hub directly from "ANY" USB charger).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And here is my new OTG setup with the modified charger (no need to modify the charger with this) and modified hub:
Also works well with [MOD] Self Powered USB OTG on the HP Touchpad! (v2 Full Size) 11-30-12
Just out of curiousity, will a sixaxis controller be supported by otg? Could anybody confirm this for me.
Jsparta26 said:
Just out of curiousity, will a sixaxis controller be supported by otg? Could anybody confirm this for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw someone taking about it in the HP Touchpad CM9 thread, I will see if I can find the post & report back.
update: post was here
-------------------------------------------
Separately, I saw this (couldn't find the u12000 solar hub mentioned previously)
Opteka BP-SC4000 Ultra Thin Solar Powered High Capacity (4000mAh) Backup Battery and Charger
I know some have mentioned an interest in an all in one OTG enabled solar powered charger with battery backup. Sounds easy enough with the correct parts.
Sent from my "Up all night, sleep all day" HP CM9 Touchpad
I'm going for a long trip and unable to bring my laptop, so I need to do everything from my RAZR. I bought a USB OTG cable and a USB Y-cable thinking it would be the final solution.
The main problem with the card readers as some of the USB sticks is that they all want >100mA and RAZR reports being unable to supply that amperage. You can debug this using USB Host Controller and enabling the 'DMesg display mode'.
Simple permanent solution:
buy a cheap unpowered usb hub. Since weight and space are my main concerns I cannot travel with powered hubs.
Complicated temporary solution, requiring root:
Check the dmesg output from the above application or by doing a tail -f /var/log/dmesg in terminal and see what port is being reported as underpowered. Most of the time it will be this: "usb 3-1: rejected 1 configuration due to insufficient available usb power". Of course that's not true since the power is provided by an external brick capable of supplying at least 1 amp.
You have several ways of doing this, I'm using root explorer as an example. Go into /sys/bus/usb/devices/3-1/ , click on the bConfigurationValue file, select 'Text Editor' from the prompt, type "1" into the editor, save and exit.
You will have to do this every time you plug something in so you might make it into a script, something like "echo 1>/sys/bus/usb/devices/3-1/bConfigurationValue".
Other issues: I'm taking two cameras with me, a Canon SX230HS and a Nikon D7000. The problem with new cameras is that they have given up on the Mass Storage protocol and switched completely to PTP (Picture Transfer Protocol).
Simple solution: use an SD Card reader to transfer photos. Use USB OTG Helper to help you with mounting, it's a free one-click solution.
Complicated solution: for Canon I'm using RawDroid. For Nikon I'm using DslrDashboard.
If you can afford it, PhotoMate should also work.
Oh, this should go into the Accessory forum, or maybe not even on this forum, but I was able to ditch the camera chargers (two wall bricks + two chargers) by buying a PIXO C-USB charger. It's one of those universal LiPo chargers with spring contacts. You can plug it into a USB port or USB charger and you can charge 1 cell or 2-cell LiIon/LiPo packs or AA/AAA batteries.
I am still looking for an efficient 2xAA/AAA -> USB high current supply for complete portability, but I might just build one myself. The reason is that you will find batteries everywhere but less so publicly available power sockets.
Hmm, I think that for a cheap USB power, you could use one of those smartphone battery backup usb batteries. The problem I see with AA or AAA is that they are less efficient due the extra space they need because of the packaging of each battery, and the materials (NIMH vs Lithium)
Also, taken from this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1349038
You need a powered hub in order for the RAZR to accept it, and I think this is a kernel issue, and cannot be modified just with root (Because of the locked bootloader).
I think that probably what you need, as you stated before, an external source of power, and probably something like this powered usb hub:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Samsu...o-USB-Host-OTG-HUB-CARD-READER-/160921077532?
It needs to be powered in order for it to work with our RAZR.
Have a look at the entire thread that I posted before, I think it could be helpful.
I am already on my long trip and the non powered usb hub worked perfectly. I already explained how you can 'fool' the kernel into thinking it has enough power, this is a non-issue. The thing with AA/AAA is not density but it is they are readily available in remote areas of the world where there is no power.
I already tested one AA/usb power supply I had for overload and magic smoke came out.
It worked for me. However it depends on how the hub and charger are connected. I had to connect the hub between the female plug of the otg-cable (a y-cable) and the usb stick and the charger to the male otg-cable plug. Connecting the charger directly to the hub didn't work.