Hi,
My phone charges extremely slow when connected with USB to my MBP.
I checked with the OS X tool "USB Prober" and it says 96mA, checking my old iPhone it shows the correct 500mA.
What might cause this, and how may i fix it?
-
Espen
No one knows?
At what power-level was your phone when plugged in? Because when it was already in the 90's, it charges slowly since the LiIon charge cycle is meant to work that way.
Oh, that might be a very good point. I will let the battery drain a bit before i plug it in the next time.
It seems to draw 96mA still, even if the battery was down to 75 %.
This would mean, your phone needs about 19,8 hour to load to 100 % from 0%. (1900/96)
It is correkt ?
When connected to USB it definitely sounds correct, it takes extremely long time to just move one percentage up. Even when the phone is not in use, and the display is off.
19.8 hours should mean 5 % an hour, and that sounds very correct.
Do you have also the problem, if you charge via a AC adapter ?
While I had it I found out that if you take a car charger or a usb cable and solder the two inside pins together (the data lines) it tells Android you are on a wall charger and charges at the higher rate.
If you use a special usb charger cabel, it should work
Using the AC adapter it charges normally.
I will see if i can mod one of my cables to short the data lines.
Thank you
Are the SGS II enumerated properly, that is the USB drivers are loaded so you can browse the SD card or connect with Kies or similar? Before a USB device is allowed to draw more than 100mA it has to negotiate this with the host. And the USB port has to be capable of delivering 500mA but since your iPhone shows 500mA this should be ok.
I think so, yes. If i chose to mount the SD cards i can fine browse them and upload files etc.
I can also use ADB when connected.
espenfjo said:
I think so, yes. If i chose to mount the SD cards i can fine browse them and upload files etc.
I can also use ADB when connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same situation here...
The phone negotiates only 96mA with my Win7 PC; other devices, on the same PC, negotiate 500mA and the phone charges fast with wall charger.
Does anybody know hot to bring my phone to 500mA on PC?
pdario said:
Same situation here...
The phone negotiates only 96mA with my Win7 PC; other devices, on the same PC, negotiate 500mA and the phone charges fast with wall charger.
Does anybody know hot to bring my phone to 500mA on PC?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you dont mind flashing a kernel try dori or gustavo's. The app where you set the kernel level params, e.g. synapse or stweaks, has an option where you can set the current the phone can draw from a usb connection. By default its 500 ma only.
Btw,did you see the same results with different usb cables/ports/pc?
banjara said:
If you dont mind flashing a kernel try dori or gustavo's. The app where you set the kernel level params, e.g. synapse or stweaks, has an option where you can set the current the phone can draw from a usb connection. By default its 500 ma only.
Btw,did you see the same results with different usb cables/ports/pc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Apolo kernel and it is set to use 450mA from USB (default), but the phone only uses 96mA...
Related
Went to sleep last night with my Atrix plugged in as I normally have had all my phones, was playing with it right before I went to sleep and everything worked just fine, woke up this morning and the phone will not power on!
First tried to power it on unplugged and the green light flashed for 2 seconds, and nothing happened. Okay, weird, but I'll go with it. Plugged it in, and the green light stays on now until I press the power button! Once pressed, it flashes off, flashes on for 2 seconds and stays off. Nice. I thought the green light meant it was fully charged - when I woke up this morning, it had no green light on, but it was plugged in just fine all night - grabbed my Jawbone ERA and plugged it in to the charger I had the Atrix connected to and it started charging right away, so I know it works....
Pulled the battery, tried plugging it in and power it on without the battery. Nothing. Tried putting in the battery and plugging it in again to "jump start it" as I had done yesterday when I first got it - apparently you can't just charge the thing when connected to a laptop if the phone is off, it will power on even if you power it off again! Nothing.
What the hell happened in it's sleep? I KNOW rooting it didn't cause sleep death.... This thing doesn't have a custom ROM or any undervoltage adjustments, so why the hell is it acting up??? Damnit, right when I got EVERYTHING set up the way I wanted it too.... can't bring it in to the store and give it up with all my personal stuff on there now, I need this thing to power on to wipe it first!!! I'm leaving it connected to the laptop with the green light on for a while and will see what happens in an hour or so....
EDIT - just searched for and tried to hard reset the phone from this thread, the phone still won't even power on to get to the recovery screen!!!
UPDATE - see below and use the SUPPLIED Moto AC charger or at least one with over 5.0V - NOT a PC and NOT a USB hub!
use the charger that came with the phone. My old HTC ones won't charge the phone for some reason. I bet your battery is just dead.
Did you use the provided charger? I tried plugging my Atrix in to the charger I used for my N1, and found that it did not provide enough current. With the old charger, after the phone died, I had similar symptoms where the green light would flash but phone would not come on. Plugged it in with the Moto provided charger, and 5 minutes later all was good...
I had the same problem. Thought I was gonna have to take it back to the store. I don't know what the problem was but I took the battery out for 5 minutes. Then I plugged it into the wall charger(wouldn't work with PC). I didn't turn it on for 30 min, just left it on the charger. Then I hit the volume rocker and it showed the battery charging symbol which it didn't do before. And then I was able to power it on
Same thing here. I purposely drained my battery on the first use. Plugged the usb cable into the PC and nothing. Same blinking green light with no response. I also thought I'd have to return the phone. Then for S & Gs I plugged it into the wall charger and it came to life. Once I got the battery charged a little bit I plugged it into the PC and it started to charge again. Don't know why, but it worked.
Have been running around the house trying to find valid outlets, and that does indeed appear to be the problem. I found it out the hard way though, should have kept an eye on the thread - used a power outlet instead of a PC USB connection and the screen fired right up! Yes, the phone showed the battery with 0% in it, but at least the screen finally came on!
How I have my phone set up normally is connected to my charging valet on my dresser, connected with a 15 foot USB cable that plugs directly into my desktop. Since the extension is good for just one USB connection, I have that connected to a USB hub and then a MicroUSB cable connects my phone from there. The Captivate, and all the other phones I've ever used, not to mention my Zune and Jawbone ERA, all eat that up and have no issues since the USB hub is powered not by the computer (seven USB cables is just too many for a single PC connection) but by the power outlet in the charging valet. I wonder if the hub is distributing the power requirement for each device and the Atrix needs more than others.
I also figured out that the Moto charger has a 5.1V output on it, as does my Jawbone AC charger. Now I need to start making sure that my each one of my chargers in the cars I own has that same type amount of juice too! You go up 29% in battery capacity and so do the requirements to charge it, huh?
Thanks for all the help, marking this SOLVED....
I used the charger in my bedroom that I've used for the Captivate and others before it and it didn't provide enough juice to charge the Atrix. It quickly switched between charging and not charging. I still had 40% battery showing when I woke up though which was nice. It had been off of charge since 10am yesterday.
Plugged it into an HTC charger and it's fine. The one that didn't work is not a modular charger so the power cord is hard wired to the plug.
Alright, a quick update.... Got the phone charged to 100% while it was off and plugged into the AC outlet with the Moto charger. Put my SIM card back in it - couldn't be without a phone all day! - and fired up the Atrix. Went to Battery Info to see what the status is and while plugged into my USB hub, it says
Battery Status: Discharging
Power plug: USB
....
Battery Voltage: 4124 mV (or 4.124V)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What the hell? Then I went right after that and plugged it into the Moto AC charger, it says:
Battery Status: Full
Power plug: AC
....
Battery Voltage: 4207 mV (or 4.207V)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why are POWERED USB hubs and PCs not strong enough to charge the phone? I tried ALL my outlets in my vehicles just now and they ALL show full battery status and plugged into AC! Who screwed this up????
GarciaM25 said:
Why are POWERED USB hubs and PCs not strong enough to charge the phone? I tried ALL my outlets in my vehicles just now and they ALL show full battery status and plugged into AC! Who screwed this up????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you download the PC Charging Drivers that Motorola requires you to have in order to charge via PC and USB cable? If not, look here.
Battleship said:
Did you download the PC Charging Drivers that Motorola requires you to have in order to charge via PC and USB cable? If not, look here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait, you have to have specific drivers on the PC so that the phone will allow a power cable (let's not even worry about it being a USB cable for a second) to charge the phone properly? I have the Motorola Media Link software installed, and that has a ton of drivers on it, that wasn't enough? MORE drivers are required to charge a cell phone? This is madness!
Sorry about the necromancy, but had this problem myself but it is NOT due to a lack of voltage. Thought I'd actually solve this, the problem is CURRENT.
USB2 ports will only ever supply 500ma which simply isn't enough to charge the atrix when it's dead. USB2 powered hubs won't supply any more than this either to meet the USB2 spec. The fact that the AC adapter works is because they tend to have a higher output current in the region of 1-2 amps (you may notice the phone, or any other device for that matter, charges faster with AC adapters for this reason).
On a similar note, cheap car chargers only output 500ma. I know with my desire I can have it plugged in and it charges, but if I use GPS it actually draws more current than it can charge at resulting in the battery draining (albeit, slowly).
So, make sure you have a higher current AC/Car charger, or alternatively, plug it into a USB3 port to charge as USB3 spec allows 900ma (some mobos output up to 1A) which is enough to charge the Atrix.
Stewge said:
Sorry about the necromancy, but had this problem myself but it is NOT due to a lack of voltage. Thought I'd actually solve this, the problem is CURRENT.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, no problem, if there's something I misstated, then please, correct it!
Stewge said:
So, make sure you have a higher current AC/Car charger, or alternatively, plug it into a USB3 port to charge as USB3 spec allows 900ma (some mobos output up to 1A) which is enough to charge the Atrix.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure about this..... It's been about a year since I got all my USB3.0 gear, and I was super excited about it because I thought that my phone would charge ridiculously fast because of the added output, but I remember reading that 3.0 uses extra pins and those pins account for the added voltage and bandwidth of the cable - we don't have those extra pins when you step down from 3.0 to 2.0, so we lose the ability to charge devices faster as a result. I don't know if I actually proved that theory, but after I read up enough on it, I thought I just didn't have to with that knowledge..... again, correct me if I'm wrong, I've got a lot of 3.0 gear here!!!
GarciaM25 said:
Not sure about this..... It's been about a year since I got all my USB3.0 gear, and I was super excited about it because I thought that my phone would charge ridiculously fast because of the added output, but I remember reading that 3.0 uses extra pins and those pins account for the added voltage and bandwidth of the cable - we don't have those extra pins when you step down from 3.0 to 2.0, so we lose the ability to charge devices faster as a result. I don't know if I actually proved that theory, but after I read up enough on it, I thought I just didn't have to with that knowledge..... again, correct me if I'm wrong, I've got a lot of 3.0 gear here!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are indeed extra pins in the USB3 standard but these are to transmit data only. The original USB2 data pins are only there for legacy support and USB3 transmissions use the extra lines. There's still only the 1 VBUS pin which supplies the +5V power. There's also no harm in offering higher current on the connection as a device will only ever draw as much current as it needs until it tops out the supplier, not the other way round
EDIT: Another solution could be to use a splitter cable (common with 2.5" drives)so you can draw from 2 ports, but with a micro connector. I've never actually seen one with USB micro but a quick look on ebay says they do exist
nsaia said:
Same thing here. I purposely drained my battery on the first use. Plugged the usb cable into the PC and nothing. Same blinking green light with no response. I also thought I'd have to return the phone. Then for S & Gs I plugged it into the wall charger and it came to life. Once I got the battery charged a little bit I plugged it into the PC and it started to charge again. Don't know why, but it worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, can I know that when you plug it into the wall charger, is there any light on? Mine has no light on when plug to wall charger. But I can get the light green when plug into PC USB. Can you share that?
cscmf99 said:
Hi, can I know that when you plug it into the wall charger, is there any light on? Mine has no light on when plug to wall charger. But I can get the light green when plug into PC USB. Can you share that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the exact same issue that I am facing now. Did you ever manage to find a solution for this problem?
atrix 4g not coming on
Is there any real fix to this issue i have search high and low and all i am seeing people talking about the battery id dead ... i have two battery that is fully charger and the phone still not coming up.
Hi all, sorry that im posting after two years ago but i am facing exactly the same problem, but i plugged it in my USB port, wich i think its a usb2, and i got the screen on but the cellphone did not say charging instead of that was connect your charger, and it was lower than 3% then it turned off. What can it be a solution??
None of the avobe solutions worked?
Which rom/kernel are you using?
I too have this same issue. My Atrix won't come on. I have 2 of the same phone. I tried the charger and cable from both phones. Neither work. When I first plug it it, the green light comes on for a few seconds then it goes out. I even opened the phone and removed the battery. Used a voltage tested and found my battery has 3.7 volts. Thats almost 100% charge. So it not a problem of power. I plugged the phone to my computer and same green light for a few seconds then gone. Won't do anything. No battery display or anything. I even did the simulated battery removal procedure. Didn't work. Is there anything else I can try? Can't get to recovery mode without display unless someone has a fix for that?
Have an SGSII running 2.3.4
When in car and Bluetooth is on, to provide hookup to car kit, all OK ... runs all day no problem. (connects to Parrot in-car kit) ... screen is off unless call is active.
However when I enable Satnav (buit-in Navigation app) even though phone is plugged into car 12V supply the battery drain exceeds its charge rate .... slowly discharges, after about an Hr you get 'battery Low' warning ....
Presumably the display being permanently on is drawing so much current that the USB charge lead cannot keep upl
The phone confirms that plug is active and charging ... but the drain obviously exceeds charge rate.
This is a significant issue ... anybody know a fix for this, can you change the rate of charge ?
need to change your charger, i had this using a 500ma charger, i have a 1000ma one now and dont suffer this problem now
kinjo is right. You may experience this as well when charging off a laptop. Not all chargers are created equal
Ah ... OK I had assumed that there would be not power limit from the DC outlet as they can produce 5A.
I'll have to go loook for a 1A ver
The SGS2 charging rate is limited to a max of 650mA and any current from a charger higher that this will be limited.
Default AC 650mA
USB 450mA
If rooted, there are apps and scripts that can increase the rate of charge through the USB to 650, but you're likely to damage your PC port or encounter other problems if you do this. I would think, but not 100% sure it would be OK from a car USB port, you'd have to check the specs.
Voltage Control
Although the app and scripts have scope to select a higher charge rate than 650mA, any higher setting than that would be purely placebo.
An accurate charge rate will not be shown by most SGS2 kernels. Exception is siyahkernel, where changes have been made to shown accurate charging current with app such as Battery Monitor Widget and Current Widget
For further reading, from Siyahkernel v2.6.9 Changelog;
"added Entropy512′s changes to sec_battery driver to show battery charging current and changed it a little bit to map the adc readings to real charging current miliamps (mapping is done in an unscientific way but it works). you will be able to see how fast your device is being charged and also why those 100%s are not the same. (thanks to Entropy512). since I don’t know how to read discharge current (maybe there is no way to read it) you will only read that data when your device is in charging state"
Your phone will take care of how much current it drains from the USB port or charger. To do this it needs to differentiate between a USB data port and a charger. This is normally done by checking the impedance between the USB data lines D+ and D-. USB data ports will have more or less high impedance since these lines are used to transfer data . Chargers however should have a short between D+ and D-. This is how your phone can tell if it is connected to a charger or USB data port.
It then adjusts its power consumption from USB (less when connected to a USB data port, more when connected to a 'good' charger).
A very simple test to check for a sleazy charger is this: connect the charger to your phone and wait for a moment. If the phone reports a USB device (besides charging ), then change the sleazy charger.
With a 'good' charger your phone should always charge, no matter what Apps your running.
fxrb said:
Your phone will take care of how much current it drains from the USB port or charger. To do this it needs to differentiate between a USB data port and a charger. This is normally done by checking the impedance between the USB data lines D+ and D-. USB data ports will have more or less high impedance since these lines are used to transfer data . Chargers however should have a short between D+ and D-. This is how your phone can tell if it is connected to a charger or USB data port.
It then adjusts its power consumption from USB (less when connected to a USB data port, more when connected to a 'good' charger).
A very simple test to check for a sleazy charger is this: connect the charger to your phone and wait for a moment. If the phone reports a USB device (besides charging ), then change the sleazy charger.
With a 'good' charger your phone should always charge, no matter what Apps your running.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll give that a try.
Sargan said:
I'll give that a try.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It wont make any difference.
The answer of fxrb is controversive. If the charger is physically - by the way - disconnected from D+ & D- (no use) and has a high impedance due to missing connection, it makes no sense to determine if the charger is "done" or not on the phone, because you cant find out this way.
Important is that if your charger has a max. load of 0,7 A (700mA) for example, and you are using it inside your car, it may get hot during exposure to sunlight & loading to the max.
Depending on internal circuitry of the charger it will decrease the output current if the charger gets too hot (thermal protection). The internal transistor will have considerable more losses @ these temperatures (~+80°C) and higher switching times, creating more losses in general.
Usually the cheap chargers have a 34063 (or 33063 for lower temps -40°) Step-Down buck switching controller, which reaches its economical end @ this current - giving all it's got with little room for environment changes.
What will help:
You can try a charger with a higher output current capability (around 1A +) which should compensate with the high temperatures and your current requirement. On the other hand, your phone could limit the current before the accumulator reaches unsafe temperature levels due to sunlight,heavy loading and charging @ the same time. assuming you also have a black sgs II.
Your phone charging current is also not linear, in this case higher @ start and low voltages, and will decrease with charged value.
Furthermore, your phone will automatically limit the charging current in correspondence to the accu charge value. Li-Ion charging is more complicated than an ordinary NICd or NIMH, your "charger" only provides a -as most cheap & stable as possible - current for the actual charging cuircuitry, which is located on the phone bottom.
So it wont adjust to anything except knowing if 650 or 450 is allowed, the rest is managed internally and (important) excluded from the firmware.
I hope i could help. gl
Tskusie said:
It wont make any difference.
>>>
So it wont adjust to anything except knowing if 650 or 450 is allowed, the rest is managed internally and (important) excluded from the firmware.
I hope i could help. gl
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have purchased a 3A charger ... and verified that it can give well over 2 A
This is with correct lead as Phone sees this as AC charging not USB.
It still cannot keep up with the discharge rate ..
Phone + GPS + BT means more drain that it replace by charger ............ this seems a significant design flaw.
Phone is being supplied with apps that it can't run without going flat ..
I have purchased a 3A charger ... and verified that it can give well over 2 A
This is with correct lead as Phone sees this as AC charging not USB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, and correct, it is recognized as AC because of missing data leads. I must say it actually works for a lot of people with chargers with an output of 700mA - 1A (5 Volts USB-b) navigating and using standard apps.
this seems a significant design flaw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont think there is that design error, honestly. Also, personally never encountered that problem.. It seems that your accumulator if faulty or it gets too hot. How old is your phone? Depending on usage, temperature and charging times it may have reached its end. But this is the last call i think...
Have you:
- Checked the accumulator temperature when performing (with an app like "spare parts" [free] or some code *#0000# or *#0# - battery stats)
it should'nt exceed temperatures above (approx) 54°C or >60°C is critical (for the accu), where the OS should shut down automatically.
- Tried to turn off one or two main things and checked if it is charging?
- Cleaned the contacts from possible metallic objects in between from chewing gum packaging for example (blow a few times)
- Tried to use any power saving mode
--- If you have a rooted kernel (CM9, Fluxi, Siyah etc...)
- Wiped battery stats in CWM & (maybe) clear cache.
- Undervolt the CPU (minor change) & or GPU
-Generally tried another MODEM, LQ5, LPS (depending on your geographic location) http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1131950
or KERNEL http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1255790 (fluxxi is not in the thread, which is also a good kernel & tweakable http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1644648)
Please let me know if it helped you. I know it is an annoying problem. If you have an easy access to try out another accumulator, give it a shot, otherwise i would consider it as last option.
If nothing helped, please let me know which system (firmware) you are using with which kernel and modem in your next post (settings--about phone--). gl
It's about 6 months old.
Sargan said:
It's about 6 months old.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you read the rest? It is hard to help you if you don't provide information.
Like i said, i think you may have a faulty accumulator. Assuming the circuitry of the car can provide the necessary power, everything should be ok.
Which version of android are you using?
Which modem?
Which kernel?
Custom rom?
Have you tried to stress your phone to the max with the normal AC charger? If yes, results the same?
Android ver 4.0.3
GT-I9100
Kernel -3.0.15
Not tried stress test on AC
So you're on the latest stock ROM?
You should try the AC test, turn on everything, stress it for at least 20 min or longer while charging. If you encounter the same issues it is likely that you have a faulty power source. Clean the contacts before testing.
Let me know when you tried it out.. :highfive:
Tskusie said:
It wont make any difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will make a difference if the phone fails to detect the charger as such.
Tskusie said:
The answer of fxrb is controversive. If the charger is physically - by the way - disconnected from D+ & D- (no use) and has a high impedance due to missing connection, it makes no sense to determine if the charger is "done" or not on the phone, because you cant find out this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was referring to how a PD (portable device or phone here) detects a dedicated charger. To put it simple: if the PD fails to detect a dedicated charger it will normally limit the charging current at a lower level.
For further information you might want read the Battery Charging v1.2 Spec and Adopters Agreement. Just two quotes from there:
In order for a PD to determine how much current it is allowed to draw from an upstream USB port, there need to be mechanisms that allow the PD to distinguish between a Standard Downstream Port and a Charging Port
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and
1.4.7 Dedicated Charging Port
A Dedicated Charging Port (DCP) is a downstream port on a device that outputs power through a USB connector, but is not capable of numerating a downstream device. A DCP shall source I DCP at an average voltage of V CHG .
A DCP shall short the D+ line to the D- line.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Furthermore there are many devices dedicated to detecting what charging device is connected to a PD. Here are just two examples:
The STUSBCD01B from STMicroelectronics
The FAN3989 from Fairchild Semiconductor
Tskusie said:
Ok, and correct, it is recognized as AC because of missing data leads. I must say it actually works for a lot of people with chargers with an output of 700mA - 1A (5 Volts USB-b) navigating and using standard apps.
>>
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use standard SGSII, no custom ROM
Kernel is 3.0.15-1I9100XWLP7-CL3400913
Baseband ver I9100XXLPS
I will try and watch temp on next car test ... one thing I can be sure of it was NOT related to over temp via solar gain in the, as at the time I first noticed this it was snowing.
fxrb said:
It will make a difference if the phone fails to detect the charger as such.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only thing it detects if the connected power source is AC or Hub. For AC it just measures the Impedance (with a current) between D+ and D- which should be <200 Ohm. (doesn't matter if they are connected with low impedance on the AC, because they are not needed for charging).
To detect a hub it will recognize a VDAT_SCR (Data voltage source) on D-, and will start the above detection, or for standard hubs through their pull down resistors on D+/-. If it fails (between D+ and D- >>200), it is a hub charger.
I know what you meant. SOO if the charger itself is limiting the current, which can be possible depending on used charger, it will be detected as dedicated charger but the phone can adjust to everything it likes, it wont make any difference, thats what i meant. The maximum current will be limited to 650mA, and if the charger itself has a current limiting ability and for example only gives 500 because of any reason, how will you be able to destinguish that?
I am not familiar with the detection methods through USB itself, which determines if it is a downstream or charging port. Are you sure that the SGSII supports that? The USB port, doesnt matter which, follow standards, and if there is a device which consumes more than the 500 (HDD's for example) will just have another connector (without data) for parallel switching, (just to double the current sink capability) All of that wont help Sargan either
fxrb said:
For further information you might want read the Battery Charging v1.2 Spec and Adopters Agreement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, i will have a look into it.:good:
fxrb said:
1.4.7 Dedicated Charging Port
A Dedicated Charging Port (DCP) is a downstream port on a device that outputs power through a USB connector, but is not capable of numerating a downstream device. A DCP shall source I DCP at an average voltage of V CHG .
A DCP shall short the D+ line to the D- line.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are not really shorted, but yes low impedance -- <200 Ohm... . Arent these hybrid ports?
an average voltage of VCHG @ which current?
Yeah, there are a lot of IC's for that, idk what's in his charger. I've seen the DC-DC Converter 34063 in cheap ones...
Sargan said:
I use standard SGSII, no custom ROM
Kernel is 3.0.15-1I9100XWLP7-CL3400913
Baseband ver I9100XXLPS
I will try and watch temp on next car test ... one thing I can be sure of it was NOT related to over temp via solar gain in the, as at the time I first noticed this it was snowing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, and you say you have your phone for 6 months? So you must have experienced that at the very beginning already???
Please do the AC test and let us know.
Tskusie said:
Thanks, i will have a look into it.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea...
are there any script to increase the usb charging current? I'm using BIFTOR V7.2 with jeeboo V2.1 kernel
A little bit off topic. .
How long does it take to charge ur S2 with a charger doing nothing but leaving it for charging. ?.. It took me 3 hrs to charge mine frm 2% to 100% using a 700mah charger. .
Is this normal or does it take less ? Plz share your opinion. .
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
FWIW, I think I may have traced my recent charging problems to a Belkin USB charger at my office. On this power source, the battery indicates charging from USB, and apparently there's not enough current to keep up with the demand of the device. It discharges continuously with the screen on, and only keeps even with the screen off. The only way to charge with the Belkin is to turn the phone off.
With the included HTC adapter at my home, however (and with a Motorola adapter left over from a previous phone), the Rezound will charge with screen off, and perhaps even a little with the screen on. Allowed to charge overnight, I do not have to turn the device off when using the HTC charger. On this charger, the phone indicates AC power.
Of course, none of this was an issue before I took the ICS leak. Even though I've gone back to GB, I still have the ICS firmware, and I suspect something different in there is affecting charging.
In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if HTC simply lowered charging rates as part of a campaign to deal with widespread heat issues. If you were trying to cool the phone, that's definitely something you would consider tweaking.
For sure, it's a known issue, some chargers give the full 1A ( the phone indicates AC charging) and some only give 400ma or less (USB Charging).
Search around for chargers and there's good discussion on AC adapters that work well, and even how to modify a USB wall/car charger to give a full AC amount.
Both my gigabyte and msi motherboards are able to deliver up to 1.5A via the USB ports, and are even able to charge my phone (or tablet) when the computer is OFF.
a.mcdear said:
Both my gigabyte and msi motherboards are able to deliver up to 1.5A via the USB ports, and are even able to charge my phone (or tablet) when the computer is OFF.
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for sure, but i bet your phone is only commanding 500ma from it since the phone is usb 2.0 spec... I too have a power port on my laptop to charge things when the laptop is off but it doesn't get over usb 2.0 spec because of the phone :x
I've tried everything, short of trying to make, or looking for, customized drivers to overload it.
thatsricci said:
for sure, but i bet your phone is only commanding 500ma from it since the phone is usb 2.0 spec... I too have a power port on my laptop to charge things when the laptop is off but it doesn't get over usb 2.0 spec because of the phone :x
I've tried everything, short of trying to make, or looking for, customized drivers to overload it.
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You might be right when it comes to the Rezound, but I know for a fact that it is capable of supplying more than 500mA to some devices for charging. It charges my TF101 even with the screen on, which every other computer with ordinary USB ports seems incapable of doing. If I plug my TF101 into any other computer with a standard USB 2.0 port, it will still slowly discharge if the screen is on and I'm using it.
Either way, I notice absolutely no difference between charging via USB on my computer or via the actual charger, so I'm relatively sure the USB port IS outputting at least the full 1A that the actual charger is rated at, and I am NOT using a kernel with the "fast charge" mod..
I haven't really spent much time noticing how slowly the Rezound would charge on a regular USB 2.0 port. Maybe I'll give it a shot on my laptop tonight just to test it out.
Or, a simple ammeter would probably put the issue to rest definitely.. I wonder if I know anybody with one I could use.....
a.mcdear said:
You might be right when it comes to the Rezound, but I know for a fact that it is capable of supplying more than 500mA to some devices for charging. It charges my TF101 even with the screen on, which every other computer with ordinary USB ports seems incapable of doing. If I plug my TF101 into any other computer with a standard USB 2.0 port, it will still slowly discharge if the screen is on and I'm using it.
Either way, I notice absolutely no difference between charging via USB on my computer or via the actual charger, so I'm relatively sure the USB port IS outputting at least the full 1A that the actual charger is rated at, and I am NOT using a kernel with the "fast charge" mod..
I haven't really spent much time noticing how slowly the Rezound would charge on a regular USB 2.0 port. Maybe I'll give it a shot on my laptop tonight just to test it out.
Or, a simple ammeter would probably put the issue to rest definitely.. I wonder if I know anybody with one I could use.....
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Or you could use a battery charging app to verify what rate it is charging at.
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nosympathy said:
Or you could use a battery charging app to verify what rate it is charging at.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA
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Which app do you use?
thatsricci said:
for sure, but i bet your phone is only commanding 500ma from it since the phone is usb 2.0 spec... I too have a power port on my laptop to charge things when the laptop is off but it doesn't get over usb 2.0 spec because of the phone :x
I've tried everything, short of trying to make, or looking for, customized drivers to overload it.
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Click to collapse
Use a charging only cable, i.e. Naztech Micro USB Charging Cable (sorry, don't remember who initially pointed to this), and the phone will see the source as an outlet and not a usb port.
plcline said:
Use a charging only cable, i.e. Naztech Micro USB Charging Cable (sorry, don't remember who initially pointed to this), and the phone will see the source as an outlet and not a usb port.
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Well that makes sense, any USB cord without data points can only provide power and therefore the phone wouldn't be able to determine whether its a computers USB port or a charger. When the data pins are present, the phone must request a high-power mode from the computer in order to obtain the full 500mA on standard ports, or 1.5A in the case of some newer boards as I mentioned earlier.
when i tether to my pc via pdanet, my phone's battery gradually drains(which i'm sure you guys experience also).
has anyone tried out this cable(or one like it)? does it prevent battery drain?
voxigenboy said:
when i tether to my pc via pdanet, my phone's battery gradually drains(which i'm sure you guys experience also).
has anyone tried out this cable(or one like it)? does it prevent battery drain?
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Yeah, but not as much as a normal charger. The thing is that when connected to PC, to my knowledge, the kernel limits the charge rate even more than the current limit that you get from the the normal charger.
Kernel limits current from wall to say 850mA, even if have a 2000mA charger.
Kernel limits current when connected to the PC to say 500mA, even if you have a Y cable with the power-only leg on a 2000mA charger.
Most USB ports can't even give more than 250mA, even though the USB spec states 5V, 500mA.
A Y cable would help you because it would let you get at or close to the kernel limited 500mA.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2
Yes the split cable helps a lot on computers with standard USB ports with 500mA power supply. My other computers have 1.5A USB ports, and those are able to charge just fine with the standard straight USB cable.
Vs985 on CM12. When I plug my phone with the LG's native USB into my Honda - it does not seem to charge. It only changes to show a battery indicator amount of charge. Even with charge only selected in the usb settings. If I plug my phone into my laptop it shows a lightning bolt in the battery icon and seems to charge? Is there some kind of a device I can plug into the usb or something I can do on the phone to enable usb charging?
If it were me, I'd try it on a stock LG ROM to determine where the problem lies.
abexman said:
Vs985 on CM12. When I plug my phone with the LG's native USB into my Honda - it does not seem to charge. It only changes to show a battery indicator amount of charge. Even with charge only selected in the usb settings. If I plug my phone into my laptop it shows a lightning bolt in the battery icon and seems to charge? Is there some kind of a device I can plug into the usb or something I can do on the phone to enable usb charging?
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I sell Honda's and the usb port only works with Apple products,plug in an iPod or iPhone and it will charge it
Sent from my VS985 4G using XDA Free mobile app
abexman said:
Vs985 on CM12. When I plug my phone with the LG's native USB into my Honda - it does not seem to charge. It only changes to show a battery indicator amount of charge. Even with charge only selected in the usb settings. If I plug my phone into my laptop it shows a lightning bolt in the battery icon and seems to charge? Is there some kind of a device I can plug into the usb or something I can do on the phone to enable usb charging?
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Click to collapse
When plugged into your laptop, or desktop for that matter, your phone WILL NOT charge at the same speed as it would when plugged into a wall charger for the express reason that the outlet will provide a higher voltage, one capable of charging the phone, while the laptop doesn't provide as large a voltage through it's USB port because many USB operated devices for a computer require a much lower voltage to operate properly. As for the Honda charging, I believe it would be the same deal, but I'm not an expert on vehicles so I'm not positive.
6NomoN6 said:
When plugged into your laptop, or desktop for that matter, your phone WILL NOT charge at the same speed as it would when plugged into a wall charger for the express reason that the outlet will provide a higher voltage, one capable of charging the phone, while the laptop doesn't provide as large a voltage through it's USB port because many USB operated devices for a computer require a much lower voltage to operate properly. As for the Honda charging, I believe it would be the same deal, but I'm not an expert on vehicles so I'm not positive.
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I hope you don't taste this the wrong way, but to some like me, it's a pet peace. ? The voltage is the same,the amperage is different.
I believe computer USB 2.0 and 1.x ports are normally limited to 500mA (half an amp). Some PC's USB drivers even let you monitor how much amperage each USB port is drawing when it's bring used.
USB 3.0 might be higher. I'd have to read again to be sure, but the additional amperage USB 3.0 might supply shouldn't require a USB 3.0 cable to take advantage of it.
Some implementations of USB in some PCs supply higher, and presumably some lower amperages than the known standard.
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