When I plug into the wall or use a power inverter in my car, it says "charging AC" and charges quicker. Although if I use a car USB dongle charger, it goes into "charging USB" mode and unfortunately, charges much slower. This really ticks me off as I just picked up a rapid charging 2.1amp(2100mA) USB car dongle.
Is there a way to tell the phone to charge as AC instead of USB? Or at least an app/widget that will change it?
voxigenboy said:
When I plug into the wall or use a power inverter in my car, it says "charging AC" and charges quicker. Although if I use a car USB dongle charger, it goes into "charging USB" mode and unfortunately, charges much slower. This really ticks me off as I just picked up a rapid charging 2.1amp(2100mA) USB car dongle.
Is there a way to tell the phone to charge as AC instead of USB? Or at least an app/widget that will change it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
max current in the USB spec is between 500 and 900 mA depending on version. Congrats, you got scammed. Take it back.
Edit: Correction, there has been a modification to the spec to allow, ostensibly, mobile devices to draw greater power when charging. The device may draw up to 1800mA when connected as a Dedicated Charging Port which disallows data transfer in this mode. Two things to note about this. First, the HTC supplied AC-to-USB adapter lists a 1000mA (1A) current output, and your users manual (you did read the manual, right?) specifies you should only use this charger with your phone. Second, despite the fact that I am not even sure you would want the phone to take 1800mA, when it's designed to charge with 1000mA, your "rapid charging" device is STILL over-specced by ~14%. Not a gamble I personally would be willing to take.
Good luck.
Edit 2: To answer your original question, no, you cannot fix this in software. The dedicated charging mode is triggered by shorting the d+ and d- data contacts. If your USB dongle doesn't do this, then the phone will never, ever be able to recognize it as a dedicated charging port and you will only get 900mA charging current at 5V per the standard USB spec.
punman said:
Edit 2: To answer your original question, no, you cannot fix this in software. The dedicated charging mode is triggered by shorting the d+ and d- data contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, this seemed to be the final answer for giving the Desire enough juice to charge in a car while running nav. I don't plan on using nav a lot in my daily routine, but it would be nice to have a safe, effective answer to getting an "AC Charge" in a car. I saw the picture of voxigen's 12v port -> inverter -> AC USB adapter setup, but I don't have that much room around my 12v port in my car lol.
Apsalus said:
Yeah, this seemed to be the final answer for giving the Desire enough juice to charge in a car while running nav. I don't plan on using nav a lot in my daily routine, but it would be nice to have a safe, effective answer to getting an "AC Charge" in a car. I saw the picture of voxigen's 12v port -> inverter -> AC USB adapter setup, but I don't have that much room around my 12v port in my car lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i wouldn't mind continuing to use that inverter(aside from occasionally hitting my knee on it), just the downside to it is that whenever i'm playing music from my phone -> stereo, there'll be this weird buzzing/hissing sound in between tracks/when a song is paused, but while a song is playing it goes away... and it does not do that when i plug in through that usb charging dongle.
Related
I purchased a new vent holder with a car charger, and it charges the phone up OK when it is off, but if it is on it says charging but does not actually charge. This is especially annoying with Satnav and after an hour or two the phone dies and I don't know where I am going!
Anyone know what causes this? I guess it can't provide enough power for the device, especially when using the internal GPS, but I think it doesn't even keep up with the device is just turned on.
I am getting another charger just in case, but never had the problem on my old Touch....
..
try -> start/settings/system tab/power/battery tab - uncheck the box "when the device is turned on...."
It isn't ticked...
..
try ticking it..
That will have the opposite effect, it charges fine when plugged into the wall, the problem is something to do with the car.
Does anyone use satnav on a touch HD and have it charge at the same time?
Well there could be one or two issues.
On the USB port there are four connections, a positive and a negative and two data pins. When you plug your Touch HD into a PC power is supplied down the power pins and after negotiating with the USB controller chip over the two data pins the phone will pull up-to 500mA from the power supply to run and charge the phone. This is so the USB port on the PC is not damaged by the phone overloading the power supply to the port.
Without the negotiation with the USB controller chip the device will only charge at 100mA.
But 500mA is not enough to charge the phone with everything running, you will need at least 1000mA to do that (1 Ampere). So that is what your wall charger pushes out. But how does the phone know it can charge at a higher rate? Well inside the charger the data pins on the USB connector are wired in a way that the phone 'sees' that a higher current is available, and pulls a higher charging current.
So what you need is a minimum current 1 Amp car charger. If you already have a 1 Amp then the chances are that is does not have the data pins connected properly and the phone will not draw the higher current, meaning it will only charge at 100mA.
Thanks, I am going to try another one and see if that helps, perhaps it is just faulty, otherwise I will check if it is 1Amp.
Cheers.
I contacted the seller and they sent me a new one, which works. So it turns it my charger was just faulty.
What's the rating of the new one? and where did you get it from. I bought a 2amp (supposedly) but it doesn't give me more than 500mA.
I've had this problem and it sucks! As I'm always out on the road. But I have found a few solutions. I purchased a mini usb charger from asda for £6. After adjusting the backlight to medium this charger seems to keep the power level the same as it was before you plugged it in, so It doesn't let the battery go flat. I've now learnt to keep a spare charged battery in the car just in case it fails.
I have a USB car charger that doesn't seem to charge as quickly as I would like it to. I say that by comparing it to previous phones and the rate at which they charged when plugged into it.
I read that you can short out the Belkin or Griffin USB charges to make it look like your phone is plugged into the wall. I'm not agains doing this because i like to tweak.
The question really is, I see that Proporta has a 4000mA (2000mA per port) dual port USB charger available. Will this allow my phone to charge like it's plugged into the wall or will it still "look like" I'm plugged into a USB prot charging?
- Cyber
Not exactly sure what you're asking, but I assume that you mean that a wall charger charges the phone faster than a car charger.
Unfortunately, I don't know if this is the case. USB is a universal standard with specific power requirements. Although there are medium and high power chargers out there, I would be reluctant to get something so extreme. I think USB calls for 500 mA standard, so I'd be careful using the charger you mention. You might want to do some more research on it, or contact the company about it.
I'm not an expert but my opinion is that usually USB-Wall charger supplies up to 1000 mAh (written on power supply transformer) while the USB-OutPC is only 500 mAh, in fact, I've noticed that the full charge of my Titan takes double the time if charged via PC.
Not sure about the amount supplied by cars USB adapter.
...my two amperes...
Some of the chargers accomplish support for things like the iPad 2 by shorting the two USB connectors. Some advertise things like 2000ma, but fail to deliver much more than 500ma. I am not sure if this is due to the choice of shorting out the data connectors to trick your phone in to thinking it is plugged in to the wall.
Back in the WM 6.5 days, you could accomplish this at the phone driver level and did not need to modify your chargers.
I would not worry about trying something rated higher as your phone would regulate the current. I personally intend to do my experimentation by shorting out the cable rather than the charger (cables are more easily replaced). Unfortunately, there is no app for WP7 that can measure the charging current, so the only way to do this scientifically is to use the battery status app and measuring the charge rate over time.
If you do the mod, post back and let us know. When I get around to the USB cable experiment, I will post back as well.
Using a New Trent External charger I noticed that the phone was still losing power, just at a way slower rate than without it charging. Phone showed charging. I was using netflix via 3g at the time. Would this be expected? Not super worried as the battery charges just fine when screen is off and not in use.
How many amp output is that charger??
My phone can't keep up with the charge if I'm veiwing a movie using HDMI unless I run incredible kernel with fastcharge enabled.
7000mAh. Think 1V output?
IIRC, the stock A/C charger is 1 amp.
A lot of aftermarket chargers do not have the balls to charge the Rezound.
you may need to modify a usb cable to short the Data wires to get the full charging potential out of it.
or try one of these cables from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-Micro...3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1328727460&sr=1-3
thatsricci said:
you may need to modify a usb cable to short the Data wires to get the full charging potential out of it.
or try one of these cables from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-Micro...3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1328727460&sr=1-3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does this cable work for sure with the rezound??
I don't need it right now with the incredicontrol running, but I ordered it just as a handy thing to have.
My new Trent works pretty well, but I wouldn't expect it to keep up with streaming vids. I found that it gives a charge to the idle phone at about 800mA, which is about the same as the stock wall charger.
Pick up battery monitor widget and you can track your plus and minus usage pretty well to decide if everything seems OK.
jmorton10 said:
Does this cable work for sure with the rezound??
I don't need it right now with the incredicontrol running, but I ordered it just as a handy thing to have.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I'll answer my own question. The cable definitely DOES NOT force higher charging at least when using an HDMI adaptor.
If I use Incredikernel with fast charging enabled with Incredicontrol, it will actually GAIN charge while playing a full length movie through HDMI.
This morning, I flashed back to dsb 1.3 with no frills cpu control & hooked up the new cable for charging. I started with a 100% charged battery & after playing a 1 hour DVD RIP from my card, it was down to 89% charged. Using Incredicontrol, during the exact same test the battery still read 100% at the end.
Thanks for your results jmorton10. Good to know. I wonder if it's the connections inside the HDMI adapter messing with it.
Not sure why HTC can't just get this right to always pull the max possible from whatever it's hooked into!
-j
My understanding is because the MHL adapter needs the USB data pins to work properly and they can't be shorted out as mentioned above, the phone thinks it's on a USB connection and limits it's current draw to 500mA.
mjones73 said:
the phone thinks it's on a USB connection and limits it's current draw to 500mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is definitely the problem, the battery monitor widget claims it is charging from USB even though it is plugged directly into an A/C charger.
I guess I will be flashing back to Incredikernel/Incredicontrol tonight. I do like dsb kernel slightly better as it never freezes/bootloops etc. ever on that kernel. It does stop responding occasionally on IC (requiring a battery pull) although it doesn't happen very often.
The Rezound complies with the USB charging specification. If your power source isn't compliant, it won't draw more that 500 mA (and probably less if USB doesn't enumerate, but I haven't checked). That's what the "short the USB data pins" thing is all about. Earlier USB charging spec said they should be shorted, the latest says 200 ohms. Any "USB charger" which doesn't do that isn't compliant, and shouldn't be sold as USB-anything, because it doesn't follow the USB spec. Return it to where you got it, and complain (loudly).
Regardless of how much power a charger can deliver, even if it meets spec you won't see more than about 800 mA go into the battery. There's a limit to how much current both the connector and the battery can safely handle, and the phone takes that into consideration.
Remember, the mA reported by utilities is (always?) what's going in/out of the battery. The charger would be delivering more than that (e.g. 800 mA into the battery, plus 400 mA to power a phone doing video streaming, etc.). AIR, the micro USB connector is limited to ~1500 mA, and I've never seen a battery charge at much more than 800, as reported by the kernel. Conversely, when charging from a non-USB charging spec compliant port, the phone won't draw more than ~500 mA from the port, and the battery only gets what's left after subtracting what's needed to run the phone.
Another thing which can affect charging is the cable. If you have a long USB cable using 28 gauge wire, there will be a significant voltage drop across it. USB specs say the voltage should be between 4.75 and 5.25 V, and Android seems to limit the charging current so the incoming voltage stays above 4.75V. Using 24 gauge USB cables, especially with longer lengths, can increase the charging current. Most vendors don't tell you the wire gauge used in their cables, but Monoprice does (no relation, etc.).
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GPS is usually a big energy hog. How many amps is your car charger?
You should be able to get away with a higher amperage charger, but the trade off may be reduced battery life.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How fast does it discharge? I just went on an out of state trip last week and had gps on with the charger plugged in for several hours at a time. I didn't pay attention to the actual charge numbers, but it either discharges very gradually or charges very gradually. I could probably run it all day with the charger and gps without a problem. I don't recall the amp output of my car charger, but it is one of the cheap foreign models.
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reflash your ROM, dude. I had that problem on one of my initial GB ROM's where I had bad drain using GPS while charging in my car. I redownloaded and wiped everything and reflashed the ROM and everything was good.
Sent from my SGH-I777 using XDA
If you are running a custom ROM, you can use SetCPU (or any other CPU clock control app that allows profiles) to set max of 800MHz when plugged in. This should at least get you to even charge/discharge levels when plugged in and running GPS while driving. Probably will depend on your screen brightness.
I don't run GPS long term very often right now, but I was for a while and FWIW, I was able to stream pandora, run google maps with screen on, not have any lag, and get a slow charge from my car charger by limiting clock speed to 800MHz.
Your other option (and what I usually do) is turn off the screen during longer sections of GPS nav with no turns (like sections of highway). You'll still get audible notifications for the next turn/maneuver/interchange/whatever, and you can turn the display on then if you need visual along with audio nav. The phone shouldn't have any problem charging and running GPS with the screen off...
fungosaurus said:
Are all USB car chargers like this? Can I prevent this by getting a higher quality charger? When I'm not using maps or navigation (or turn off the screen for a while), then it'll slowly charge back up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all USB car chargers are alike. You need two things:
1. The car charger outputs higher current than 500ma. You need at least 700ma.
2. The charger is wired correctly to be recognized by phone as AC charger instead of PC USB port so that the phone will actually draw more than 500ma for charging. You can go to phone's status page to read what charge mode it is using.
Most iDevice chargers will not meet #2.
I have a stock Samsung car charger and it charges my phone while using Google Nav.
Thanks for the tips guys.
My phone discharges at around 1% every 20 minutes or so. I've been doing things like turning the screen off during periods of downtime to help with this (actually charges when I do this).
I'm using cheapy car adapter actually that has two usb ports and 2 cigarette ports in it and I use that with a samsung branded usb cable.
Hm yeah I'll try and see if limiting the CPU will help and if it does perhaps I'll just do that from now on.
foxbat121 said:
2. The charger is wired correctly to be recognized by phone as AC charger instead of PC USB port so that the phone will actually draw more than 500ma for charging. You can go to phone's status page to read what charge mode it is using.
Most iDevice chargers will not meet #2.
I have a stock Samsung car charger and it charges my phone while using Google Nav.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of any other options that are wired correctly to draw more than 500ma? I think I did hear from somewhere that charging via usb is considerably slower than when using the wall charger. Do you know of any other options that would fulfill this requirement besides getting the stock Samsung car charger? Also I assume just finding a higher amp charger wouldn't work if the phone detects it as a usb charger instead of an AC charger?
fungosaurus said:
Do you know of any other options that are wired correctly to draw more than 500ma? I think I did hear from somewhere that charging via usb is considerably slower than when using the wall charger. Do you know of any other options that would fulfill this requirement besides getting the stock Samsung car charger? Also I assume just finding a higher amp charger wouldn't work if the phone detects it as a usb charger instead of an AC charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The correctly wired charger will typically short the USB data PINs. iPhone charges and most generic car chargers with UBS ports don't do that. Most HTC chargers and Motorola chargers will work on Samsung phones. You need take a look at your car charger to see how much amps it can supply (listed on the spec label). The PC usb can only output 500ma max per spec. It is not enough to charge the phone while keep the screen on, GPS running and 3G connection active. Your Samsung OEM wall charger is rated 700ma. So, you need a car charger that outputs at least 700ma.
You then need to verify from the phone that the particular charger is recorgnized by the phone as AC charger. Without that, the phone will only draw 500ma max.
When ever I drive, I have my phone hooked up to my Escort Red Line radar detector and my car's stereo via bluetooth (both). In order for me to use the radar detector effective, I need to have GPS and Blueooth enabled. This is a HUGE SUPER OMG battery drainer for my amaze. 20 minutes drive kills about 35% of the phone's power. My radar detector offers a slot to charge my phone BUT it still drains, not enough juice flowing in. Someone said it is because it's probably a .5amp.
So I am running a extension from the 12v lighter that's in the trunk to the front of my car. Amazon has a generic 2.1amp for 3 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Heavy...121&sr=8-1&keywords=htc+amaze+car+charger+amp
But on ebay, I found the original HTC car charger for 15 bucks which is a 1amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...918506?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c867022a
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
The 2.1 amp is probably 1 amp per port. Although it does not seem to specify.
F9zSlavik said:
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right!:good:
---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------
soundping said:
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Higher voltage will trip a warning window telling you to disconnect and use official HTC equipment.
The phone monitors input voltage to protect the equipment.
nyc_tdi said:
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
I recently got an Amaze and am generally happy with it. The biggest problem I have right now is finding the right car charger for it because the car charger I previously used (a 1A monoprice car charger) doesn't give it enough charge. I have been reading through the forums and some has been saying that if the charger is not working properly, it will recognize it as charging via USB rather than AC. In my case, the phone seems to be reading it as charging through AC, but there still doesn't seem to be enough current going through it. The phone will only charge if NOTHING is going on (i.e. screen's off, no GPS, etc.). I've been using CoPilot GPS and it draws the battery like crazy. Anyone has any idea as to which car charger would work properly with the Amaze such that I'll be able to charge (or at least maintain the charge) while using it as a GPS? Do I need to go up to a 2.1A charger?
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
I couldve sworn we talked about this months ago. Let me see if I can find the thread.
nguyendqh said:
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you won't get the full 2.1a unless you usee a charge only cable or modify the charger as I stated above...
I ended up getting a 2.1A car charger and a USB charge only cable, and it's working perfectly. When I have the screen on full brightness and doing navigation with Co-Pilot GPS, my phone's no longer losing charge and is actually charging. The combo also works with my tablet as well.
blast0id said:
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Silentbtdeadly said:
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done this to every single one of my USB car chargers... not a single issue...