There are 3 pairs of holes in the case and corresponding metal contacts behind. I've read a theory that 1 pair may be to do with the antenna in a posting about the "Grip of Death". Does anybody know exactly what all these holes/contacts do?
I have not watched it, but maybe there are some hints in this TITAN Teardown video:
http://bambuser.com/channel/Solar257/broadcast/2139731
Teardown Video
The man in the video says the holes are antenna holes! He also breaks a snap connection on the chassis! Not a very exact answer, but may further the cause. I want to know how the holes and contacts help the antennae.
Related
The title says it all really, just want to know what the fit is like etc. As far as I can make out we're a bit stuck for cases for the Orbit2.
Many thanks. Apologies if I've missed this if it's covered here somewhere.
OK, just to round this thread off, in case anyone else out there is thinking of buying a Krusell case for the Touch Cruise to use with their Orbit 2, I now have one and basically I am fairly happy with it.
On the negative side, the case adds a fair amount of bulk and it's not possible to have anything plugged in to the bottom connector (a real pain for headphone use) whilst the case is poppered up. The fit is not exactly right, many of the holes don't line up exactly as they would if the case was designed for the Orbit2. The popper you need to pop to open the case to take a call etc is a bit of a fiddle, would have been great if Krusell had designed in a tag to make that easier.
On the plus side; the case is a big improvement for me over the case that came with the phone. The quality is great, ah the smell of new leather! The holes at the back for the camera and mirror and the speaker seem to line up fine. The fact that the holes at the front don't line up perfectly doesn't seem to make any difference to the quality of phone calls.
My plan is to get hold of a leather punch/sharp knife and do some customising, so that I can plug my headphones in whilst the case is closed and to enlarge some of the holes at the front so that it should all fit properly. Then if Krusell/someone else releases a custom made case for the Orbit 2, I wouldn't think I'd even want to change it.
If anyone else is interested and wants me to post any pics let me know and I will be more than happy to do so.
It would help if you had a link to the product.
I am interested in seeing your pictures too...because often times I have found the pictures on the manufacturers \ store websites are VERY misleading and small.
Thanks in advance.
Would it really help you? I see you are in the US, I am talking about the O2 (European) Orbit 2 which has differing dimensions from the rest of the Polaris', due to the O2 branding, which gives the whole phone a different shape and means various bits are in slightly different positions from the Polaris/Touch Cruise. If this still might help you I can fire up the camera and post some pics, no problem.
Hi, is there any chance to get Topaz disassembly guide?
THX
Edit: Dont need it anymore, I have done it, not difficult at all (similar to Nokia phones). HTC made Topaz very easy to disassembly.
I was cleaning part between digitizer and LCD from dust with antistaic brush and compressed air.
There are just 3 connectors to disconnect mainboard (digitizer, phone receiver and LCD), to get to the LCD. No coaxial cables to connect GPS and bluetooth antenna (all just by touch connectors to the black plastic top back part), Chipset is covered by metal plate, cant see it.
LCD: S/N: 1EJV093Q000069
P/N: 60H00209-00M S508
Can I request you get some high res photos of the PCB/LCD and/or record the ic part numbers while you've got it apart? It would be really useful to know for Linux/Android development.
Can you post what kind of gps chipset is buildin ?
Thanks in advance
Daniel
Thanks for the photos! Would you be able to post a higher res version of the 3rd one or simply scribe what is written on the back of the LCD. I'm hoping the serial number might give an indication of the chipset used in the LCD.
cheers!tsy
So you can sure tell us if the front frame is really metal or plastic ?
Its metal body iside of plastic housing.
Great job !
Thanx
some instructions or tips of how you disassembled it would be nice
i unscrewed my diamond2, and i cannot find a way to disassemble it..
help!
Hi
Nice work and photos.
One problem that has been reported, and I assume it was something you suffered from, is dust entering through the volume rocker and finding it's way onto the LCD display.
This seems rather an oversight by HTC as usually the LCD panel would have some form of seal or bezel (sticky or foam) to stop dust. Does the LCD panel have anything like this at all?
Regards
Phil
i found a htc service manual for diamond 2 that was leaked
not sure if i can post it here..
it explains how to disassemble the device
EDIT: I am so sorry, the leaked document is the user manual, it is incorrectly posted as the service manual in many sites. sorry
post it! what's the worst they can do... tell you to remove it?
PhilipL said:
Hi
Nice work and photos.
One problem that has been reported, and I assume it was something you suffered from, is dust entering through the volume rocker and finding it's way onto the LCD display.
This seems rather an oversight by HTC as usually the LCD panel would have some form of seal or bezel (sticky or foam) to stop dust. Does the LCD panel have anything like this at all?
Regards
Phil
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=520795&highlight=solution%21%21%21
Sticky? New Thread? & Help
I think we either need to sticky this, or make a new thread that encompasses all disassembly / dust leak information about the topaz.
I still cannot disassemble my device, i wish someone could help :/
Disassembling the Diamond 2 is really simple.
Remove the 4 T5 screws at the four corner
Remove the small plastic cover below the battery (might be optional)
Pop the main plastic body off the face piece (I use a really small flat screw driver) Starting from the top of the device
Remove the 3 connection then pop the main board
Remove the 4 hardware buttons then remove the LCD screen
I'll try to take some pictures when the new LCD screen arrives...
Guinea.Pig said:
Disassembling the Diamond 2 is really simple.
Remove the 4 T5 screws at the four corner
Remove the small plastic cover below the battery (might be optional)
Pop the main plastic body off the face piece (I use a really small flat screw driver) Starting from the top of the device
Remove the 3 connection then pop the main board
Remove the 4 hardware buttons then remove the LCD screen
I'll try to take some pictures when the new LCD screen arrives...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the steps. I just yesterday disassembled my TD2, but didn't dare remove the connections on the mainboard. The one on top left (see your pic mainboard.jpg) is no issue, but the other ones are tricky...or at least I thought they are. I couldn't figure out how to exactly remove those connectors. Could you maybe give some steps or info on how to remove those connectors? Thanks again for your help.
disassembly
thanks for the update . ill try and post pictures up when possible.
I am interested in this too, I have dropped mine a couple of times and am looking to replace the housing (although I have already been ripped off once by buying a repaired one on ebay).
So any idea where I can get a legitimate full housing and a guide to moving the guts from one to another?
Cheers,
Found this:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2/
Now I just need to find a genuine and complete housing.
Awesome
stormyuk said:
Found this:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2/
Now I just need to find a genuine and complete housing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your contribution stormyuk !
You can find housings on ebay, though most don't come with the buttons.
I bought one and its practically impossible to distinguish any differences,
Buy from kr-net on ebay its the seller that sold me my housing
There are a lot of messages on this subject and the cause is dirt and damp /humidity causing the tiny pcb tracks in the charging / usb port to corrode and short out. Some people manage to salvage the port by carefully cleaning the port with a toothbrush.
HOWEVER many ports will never work again even when cleaned. I suspect the short often kills a chip in the charging port circuit so even when clean it won't work again and the phone will give spurious error messages.
THE REASON I AM POSTING IS THAT JUST BUYING ANY OLD REPLACEMENT PORT ON EBAY WILL EXPOSE YOU TO THE RISK OF COUNTERFEIT PARTS.
I and a lot of other UK users have bought fake ports on ebay. Look for an assurance that it is a REAL SAMSUNG part.
The usual problem with the fake part is that you get hardly any 3g signal. The main phone antenna is on this USB board and although the fake part will cure the error message, you won't get coverage and certainly not as good as you used to get with the original part. My fake board was 25db down no bars instead of five.
I bought a better quality board for £8 from a UK ebayer called can888. It worked great and was marked REV2.3.
Here is a link to his part:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150912000314?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
One problem I had was that when you fit the part, be sure to remove the microphone grey rubber boot from the phone chassis and fit it to the tiny microphone part which dangles on about 5mm of ribbon cable. Post this little microphone into the slot on the boot and when snug, fit the board under the plastic lug at the left side (the side where the L shaped ribbon cable goes.
This youtube video shows how to completely strip and re-assemble the phone. The part concerning fitting this USB board is at 20 minutes into the video. Watch it and see what to do.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=65pvAINg2ME
Obviously, you don't need to remove the mainboard as he has done. His video is a complete strip and reassembly. You will need to remove the small black screw about two inches up the leg of the main board that comes down the side of the battery compartment. The video is worth a watch anyway - the whole lot. Unlike a lot of vids on this,it is extremely clear, well filmed and well described.
Good luck
Tony
Great thread Wish we saw more of this stuff. Rated 5 stars/thanked.
1.looks like hes not uk based at all.
2.the pic and description says 2.2; not 2.3.
3.theres a thread in the general section with "reviews" of where and which one to get.
4.in that thread, theres even advice about only using half of a new board.
5.i would not use the seller in your link!.
Hi
I bought a metal bumber with some sort of plastic backside for my zenphone 4.
I like it very much, it saved my phone two times (one time i stepped on it, the other time it dropped it)
With a framed protector glas it looks like a normal phone just a little bit bigger.
The only problem is that i have problems with the connection to bluethooth devices. using a headset is only possible if i stay perfectly still. every movement results in audio problems.
my idea is to drill additional holes into the metal bumper to a get better bluetooth signal.
but first i have to know where to drill.
So my question is:
Where is the bluetooth hardeware located. where should i drill the holes??
this is a link to a photo of the case (i dont get it to show in the post):
https://yadi.sk/i/euvhXHdU3VgJqX
.
Hi everybody,
this morning I've been quite dumb: trying to insert the sim into the newly arrived mate 20 pro, I inserted the pin into the left bottom hole instead of into the correct one on the sim slide...
Does anybody know what are those two holes? Microphones? May I have broke something? For example the waterproof integrity?
I installed a testing app and tried to register covering alternatively the two holes and it seems that the phone correctly register my voice...
Please help!
Regards,
Enrico
We really need to be careful with this. It's so easily done. Just taken double care myself a few minutes ago.
I read about this on a review.... yes, 2 microphones on the Mate 20 Pro, hole for each, one very close to SIM hole. The reviewer noted hoping there's some protection to the mic as this would happen.
There is a third hole on the top, is that another microphone?
I'm not sure I damaged something: when I phone, on the other side my voice is well received, besides I re-tried to insert (extremely slowly and carefully) the pin inside both the bottom holes and it find something hard at the same depth, so it seems that nothing has been perforated.... but, I really would like to know where to find technical schematics or tear down videos to see how these two microphones are mounted and which is their function.
If I try to register something with the recorder app and I tap alternatively on the left hole and the right hole, only the second tap is registered... so two are the cases:
1) I destroyed the left microphone, but the right one is sufficient for any application to work correctly
2) Nothing is destroyed, but the left hole is something else or the microphone inside is used for other purposes (noise reduction?)
Does anybody know where to find the phone schematics?
Thank you everybody!
Think all three are for microphones and noise cancelling. In the dialler on speaker you can change it to all direction or bottom part of the phone so I guess it needs 3 to work correctly depending what option you pick.
You may have damaged the mic. That hole near SIM eject tray is a mic....so record your voice or make some phone calls and see if you can test out with someone else on the line and test if theres any discernible differences by conversation.
RoOSTA
On fixit I found a tech guy that disassembled the mate 20 pro.
It seems that the microphone cannot be reached from the hole since it sits on top of a little motherboard and is also protected by a gasket the is perpendicular to the hole. So, it seems that the pin only reaches the plastic of the mid frame.
enricomemo said:
On fixit I found a tech guy that disassembled the mate 20 pro.
It seems that the microphone cannot be reached from the hole since it sits on top of a little motherboard and is also protected by a gasket the is perpendicular to the hole. So, it seems that the pin only reaches the plastic of the mid frame.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lucky me - also pushed a needle into the wrong hole. Thanks for sharing this!
enricomemo said:
On fixit I found a tech guy that disassembled the mate 20 pro.
It seems that the microphone cannot be reached from the hole since it sits on top of a little motherboard and is also protected by a gasket the is perpendicular to the hole. So, it seems that the pin only reaches the plastic of the mid frame.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did the same thing too. I didn't realize there are two mics underneath until I found the pin cannot push the sim tray out.!!!!