Ok all, I have spent a lot of time testing the Rezound camera, taking hundreds of pictures of different subjects in different lighting conditions, constantly tweaking the settings, and have figured out a couple of things about the camera and some tricks or even 'necessities' to be able to take really great shots.
The first thing I figured out, which, from comments I've seen on the forum, others have noticed as well, is that the hardware is actually pretty capable, but the software is kind of stupid in many situations. Coming from the Incredible, which to me had one of the best camera software setups I'd ever seen on a phone, the Rezound comes close, but lost some of what it needs to capture those awesome pictures.
So, here I will go over the features, some not-so-apparent tips, and the settings of the camera app to give those of you who want the best picture quality some ideas to help achieve this.
- The main viewfinder, and tap to focus: This first item highlights two good features that the Incredible had that the Rez mysteriously lacks. The first, is while the Rez does allow you to tap anywhere on the screen to focus on that point, it does not allow you to take a shot by holding your finger in that spot for 1-2 seconds like the Inc did. The second, kind of indirect thing, is that it highlights that the Rez does not have any options to change the metering mode. HOWEVER, be aware, that when you tap to focus, the Rez will base it's light metering on whatever area you tapped to focus on, i.e.: tap to focus on a darker object or less lit area in the frame, and the Rez will automatically increase the overall exposure, tap in a well lit area or on a bright object, and the overall exposure will decrease.
Now, here is a trick you can use in conjuction with this feature. This will only work if you turn OFF auto-focus (more on that later). Let's say you've framed your subject, a person who isn't standing front and center, but is off to one side. You tap on them to focus on them, but they happen to be wearing a white T-shirt. The Rez will then lower the exposure of the shot thinking you're focusing on a bright spot. Briefly aim your camera away from the scene then line up your shot again, the Rez will automatically re-adjust exposure based on the overall scene brightness, and your shot won't come out too dark from focusing on your white-shirt-wearing friend.
Ok, now let's go through the settings/options, in order as they are found along the right edge of the viewfinder:
- Scenes... stay away from them!: Seriously, most of the scenes seem fairly useless to me, with a couple exceptions. Most of them do NOT allow changing of any of the picture settings and will use the default exposure/contrast/saturation etc., which for many types of shots are just going to look like crap. This especially applies for any low light/nighttime/indoor shots. Outdoors on a bright sunny day, you can often get good results with the default settings and choosing one of the optional scenes, but again, few of them offer any type of improvement.
Now there are a couple that are useful:
Action burst: only good in very well lit shots, figure outside daylight shots. Runs a very low ISO and fast shutter speed, takes multiple pics in rapid succession. Can definitely help get good pics of your kids/pets playing outside in the daytime.
Panorama: self explanatory. I love that this mode DOES still allow for custom image adjustments/white balance/iso. Can get very impressive results with patience and a steady hand.
Backlight HDR: this one is kind of weird... it doesn't seem to work well as a true HDR, but looking at the name, *backlight* HDR... i.e.: works well when there is bright light behind your subjects. Improves the dynamic range. Lets you take a picture of say, your friend in the foreground with the setting sun in the background, and not have the sun completely blown out or your friend a black silhouette. Shame this one doesn't allow custom image adjustments, again limiting it's usefulness to mostly outdoors/natural lighting.
Close-up: macro mode. The Rez actually has the ability to focus on VERY close subjects, though it can be reluctant to do so and may require several attempts. Again, this mode mysteriously locks out all custom adjustments... a real shame. However, here's another trick for you... you can change to Close Up mode, focus on your subject, then switch back to Auto mode to take your picture. This only works if Auto Focus is DISABLED, it will leave the focus set as is while switching modes, and you get your awesome macro shot.
I have found ZERO use for the other scenes and recommend not wasting your time, YMMV.
- The shutter button: Seems obvious right? Nothing special here.... well hold on, there are a couple small tricks and things to be aware of. The Rez has a very fast shutter speed for a camera phone, tap the shutter button and it takes the pic almost instantaneously. This is great... and bad. The problem is, when you are tapping that icon, you are moving the camera. Your whole hand moves from the simple action of extending your thumb that fraction of an inch. Which will often result in you getting a blurry shot, especially in less-than-optimal lighting.
Three ways I have found to combat this:
1. Some of you may have already figured out that you can tap and HOLD the shutter button, and after 1-2 seconds, it will refocus and take the shot. Additionally, if you have tapped a specific spot on the screen to focus, and then tap and hold the shutter, it will refocus on the same spot you tapped to focus. UNLESS YOU MOVE THE CAMERA. Remember that tip I mentioned for changing the light metering? That won't work here... if you aim the camera away and then back again, and then tap and hold the shutter, it will refocus on the center of the frame. Which brings me to method number two for getting non-blurry shots:
2. The two-hand, two-step. Holding the camera with both hands, use your left to tap to focus anywhere on the screen. AS SOON AS YOU TAP WITH YOUR LEFT, during that brief moment that the camera is refocusing, tap the shutter with your right and release, then hold still as possible. This basically delays the shot by a fraction of a second, as it won't snap the pic until it has finished focusing. By then you have pressed and released the shutter, and are hopefully holding still, and getting your non-blurry pic.
3. Use the self timer. This won't work with kids-at-play, but will work with any other subject that will hold still for you. Set the self timer to two seconds. This lets you tap and release the shutter, hold your breath, do whatever you have to do to get as still as possible. This also works if you tap and hold the shutter button.. it will automatically refocus, then count down the two seconds and shoot. This can be used in combination with some of the above described tips
- The flash: mostly self explanatory. One thing to note, enabling the flash seems to speed up the shutter a bit. In other words, if you have an antsy/fast moving subject (kids!), enabling the flash, even when it's bright enough not to need it, can result in a faster shot and less motion blur of your moving subject. I'll discuss a little more about using the flash even at times that the amount of lighting doesn't call for it in the white balance section. There are times it's best to turn it off in dim lighting as well. The Rez sensor actually does pretty good in low light and can do without the flash in many circumstances. Experiment. The flash can also help with white balance and color (more on this later), as well as causing the camera to use a lower ISO. The downsides are that it often causes red-eye (why does such a high end camera phone not have a feature for getting rid of red eye is beyond me), and that it will often blow out subjects, especially closer subjects. This can be mitigated with tap to focus or adjusting the overall exposure setting. Experiment.
Now we get the settings menu, and each item you can adjust therein
Self timer has already been discussed, and other than that little trick, it's use is self evident, so, moving on to Image Adjustments:
- Exposure: self explanatory. Increases/decreases brightness of the overall scene. I find that in any dim or artificially lit shots, the Rez tends to over-expose, so I often turn this down to -1. Use this in conjuction with tap to focus to get the brightness just right. Remember though, the Rez has a fairly narrow dynamic range. If the exposure is too high, whites will be blown out, which is almost impossible to fix with post processing. It's almost always better to go to low rather than too high. Better to have a dark shot, which you can then bring the brightness up without blowing out the light colors.
- Contrast: adjusts the "difference" between the light areas and the dark areas. Lower contrast brings out the detail in darker/shaded areas, but can make the scene look washed out or faded. Higher can result in striking shots, but dark areas will become darker and often lose all detail. 95% of the time I leave this setting at 0.
- Saturation: this is one of the settings I adjust the most often. Low/artificial light seems to confuse the Rez and often results in the saturation getting WAY too high. This setting is also directly affected by the white balance setting, and I find if I adjust one I usually have to adjust the other. More often than not though I am turning this DOWN to -1. Occassionally, I do have to turn it up to +1 but this is rare (certain fluorescent lighting situations).
- Sharpness: TURN IT DOWN!! The Rez WAY oversharpens pictures by default. I turn this down to -2 and recommend everyone do the same. SOME times I turn it to -1 (if I'm taking pics of something with text, for instance), but for almost everything I leave it at -2. This will sometimes result in soft shots, but this is another thing that is much easier to fix in post-processing than a pic that is oversharp. Lowering the sharpness also lessens the noisiness of lower light pics.
- White Balance: This is the other setting I adjust fairly frequently. The Rez is retarded when it comes to compensating for artificial lighting. Incandescent lit shots will often have a yellow or orange tint to them, fluorescent shots will be green tinted. Switching to the appropriate white balance for these types of lighting will usually correct this, but often necessitates adjusting the Saturation setting as well. For Incandescent especially, I find I usually have to turn the Saturation down to -1, for Fluorescent, I SOMETIMES have to turn it up to +1
Now, using the flash seems to "fix" the auto white balance in artificial lighting, and the saturation as well. In other words, if you turn the flash on, or if the lighting is dim enough that the camera uses it in auto, you will generally want the white balance set to auto and the saturation at 0. Sometimes, it's better to use the flash on artificial lighting even when it's bright enough already, so you don't have to struggle to get the right white balance and saturation. Most pics I've taken with the flash seem to come out "just right", as long as nothing gets blown out.
- ISO: Auto works for bright or natural lighting, but the Rez loves to default to way too high of an ISO for mid or low lighting, resulting in very noisy pics. This is suprising given the backside illuminated sensor which is supposed to alleviate the need for a high ISO in low light. And it somewhat has. Depending what you are shooting, you can usually get away with ISO as low as 200 in low light or indoor lighting, and get a MUCH nicer, MUCH less noisy pic. But if your subject is moving around, or you can't keep your hands still, you will likely get blurry shots... it's a trade off and you have to figure out what you can get away with. Either way, in low light shots, it's better to manually pick an ISO when possible and convenient to get less noise.
- Resolution: self explanatory. I notice almost no difference between 5 MP and 8 MP shots, quality wise, when viewed on a 19" laptop monitor, so consider that if you would like to save some space on your SD card by going with 5 MP. I leave it at 8.
Review duration: Here is a tip that can a) help you get better shots of moving subjects (kids!), b) get the same effect as the "Action Shot" scene mode BUT be able to use your custom image settings, and c) show smug Galaxy Nexus owners that they aren't the only ones with "zero shutter lag". Simply set review duration to "no review". You can shoot photos in rapid succession with very little delay between shots. When I'm shooting my four year old, I generally take 3-5 pics in a row and usually end up with at least two good, blur free shots. It's easier to take several quickly, review them later and delete the ones you don't want, then to take one, look at it, see that it's no good, take another one, get frustrated as your kid got impatient and won't hold still.... etc etc.
Storage, wide-screen, geotagging, all self explanatory
- Auto-enhance: leave this OFF, it ruins pics past the point of saving. It can completely muddy fine details in pics, it doesn't eliminate noise, it makes things look smudged... turn it off... please... offfffffffffffff... if you really think it helps, you can always apply it AFTER the pic is taken and saved... I'll cover this in a minute.
- Auto-focus/face detection: For reasons discussed above, I usually leave this off. It works fine for center focused shots, but limits some of the things you can do to enhance your shots. Face detection is hit or miss, and you can do better just tapping to focus on your subjects face.
Shutter sound is self explanatory. Grid is preference, I leave it on, helps to line up shots.
A note about AFTER you have taken your picture: most of you probably already know this, the Rez allows you to do some things with the pic AFTER it's saved. In addition to the usual cropping and rotating, if you tap the pic, then tap Edit, then Effects, there are options to adjust the look of the picture, including the Auto Enhance feature that you have HOPEFULLY disabled in the settings menu before taking your shots. There are also several frames you can choose from to make your pics more interesting. The best thing here is that if you apply an effect or frame after the shot is taken vs. before, it will save a second copy, leaving the first, unaltered copy there as well.
Another kind of side note... I've had great results using third party camera software. I LOVE Vignette, it is VERY feature rich, and can get much better shots than the stock app. It has many more settings, including some of the 'missing' ones that I mentioned at the beginning of this post, such as the ability to change metering modes. It also allows much finer adjustment of the custom image settings, exposure, saturation, sharpness, etc. It has many more scene modes to choose from, and has a 'steady shot' mode, which will not let the camera snap the pic until you are holding relatively still... this eliminates 98% of the blur that results when you tap the shutter button and the shot is snapped immediately. It is in the market and I highly recommend it.
Well, I hope this has been helpful for anyone who has taken the time to read it. Don't forget to hit the thanks button if it did you any good. The hardware on the Rez is pretty damn good, the software just ... needs some help... to get the best out of it.
Nice, thanks. I'm going to really play with the camera this week and will take all of this into consideration.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk
Biggest thing I found is that auto white balance is rarely ever right. I always find myself making incandescent my default for most indoor photos.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA App
dude, i read that entire post, and i thank you for writing it all out.
i bought camera 360 ages ago, but i can't find it in the market anymore! i used to just load it from titanium on my inc, but it's just gone now..wtf!? i paid for that app! anyone have any ideas
Camera 360 is another good one. Two things wrong with it on the Rezound: 1) adjusting the exposure does nothing, 2) it only displays on 2/3 of the display. But it works well and takes good pics.
Another good app is HDR Camera +, which does much better HDR than the stock app
Very well written post. Thank you. I think everyone, including people who shoot with a DSLR like myself, can benefit from some of the tips that you brought up.
So I might as well give up on that for this phone until it's put back into the market then huh?
bast525 said:
Camera 360 is another good one. Two things wrong with it on the Rezound: 1) adjusting the exposure does nothing, 2) it only displays on 2/3 of the display. But it works well and takes good pics.
Another good app is HDR Camera +, which does much better HDR than the stock app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA App
One of the best options using Vignette is you can shoot the pic using either the search or the volume buttons.
~John
ok here is the odd thing about vignette AND 360.... last I checked, the FREE versions of both apps were still in the market, but the PAY versions were not....
Both can still be found elsewhere in their full versions.
Thanks for taking the time for typing this out.
Edit: Does Vignette not take as high resolution pictures as the stock camera software? To above post the pay version is in the market.
Hmm nvm seems the picture I took with Vignette is 3264x2448 vs 3264x1840 from stock.
in vignette, how can get full screen 16:9 shots by going into the "frames" drop down. By default it does full resolution 4:3 shots
Also, when possible, use some type of stabilization - a table top, lean against a wall, use timer and hold breath, whatevs. Movement is the enemy of sharpness. As for fast moving subjects, since the shutter speed seems to be static, your stuck trying your luck with flash and hoping for the best. Usually 1/500 is the minimum to capture motion without blur, I don't know what it is on this phone as it uses an electronic shutter
As for the "flash", do not use for subjects or scenes (e.g. landscapes) that are far away. It is pointless beyond the effective range of the flash (which varies based on ambient light) and can throw off the "cameras" metering. If your subject is backlit (lots of light behind them), turn your flash on (and hope its enough).
ISO - use the lowest setting possible to get the shot. ISO is the sensor's sensitivity to light. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive to light it is (meaning you can take photos in a darker settings) BUT the more digital noise your photo will have. Or go the lazy way and let the camera figure it out for you (auto). I suppose on a sensor this small, it doesn't matter too much.
"The best camera is the one you have with you."
On the subject of stillness... I agree, any help you can find should be taken advantage of. For one, I ALWAYS hold the phone with both hands when taking photos. And yes, if there is anything I can lean or rest on, I use it.
My wife purchased a cell phone tripod off Amazon, but the mount is too small for the Rez... I looked at a few and they all seem sized for the iPhone and nothing larger...
Thank you for the write up. Just got Vignette, is the scene change to steadyshot the only change you would make? Cheers!
I do take 98% of my pics using steadyshot also, I turn the exposure and saturation down one notch. Leave sharpness all the way down. I turn the jpeg setting to "fine" from "super fine", which drops the file size of one 8 MP photo from 4-5 MB down to 1-2, with no discernible drop in picture quality on my laptop screen. I use some of the effects and frames sometimes. I tend to usw center weighted light metering vs average but it depends what you're shooting.
Updated the first post with some tips on disabling review duration to take shots rapidly.
bast, do you think it's worth it to get that camera FX 10 cent app today? have you tried it?
jayochs said:
bast, do you think it's worth it to get that camera FX 10 cent app today? have you tried it?
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did you even read your question? is it worth it to get a 10 cent app.
i think this might be the end of the internet.
Very well written, thanks!
argh no flaming please.... I worked hard on this post and don't want to see it go to crap.
yes I tried camera fx and I was not impresses, uninstalled it five mins later. It is very limited on options compared to stock or vignette. There are no adjustments for exposure, sharpness, saturation, etc. No tap to focus. It is not an app for people who want to maximize the camera potential. Stick with stock, vignette, or to a lesser extent, camera 360.
Ok, it seems like every picture taken under the conditions mentioned above(sorry forgot to write them: natural light, inside my room, pretty much a well lit room, besides the fact i didn't turn on the lights) and everything else set on auto, have the same result. I get either a blurry shot, without the antishake option and a noisy one, when having antishake on.
Also i would like to mention, that this particular behaviour happens in a rather well lit environment. The only time i get acceptable results is when i go out and shoot in the natural sunlight.
Is this normal?
You didn't list any conditions above.
Let me just add some examples, maybe you will understand what i'm talking about a little bit better
1. camera ics+
2. camera zoom fx
3. stock samsung camera
4. lg camera pro
Your iso settings are wrong. Change it to auto.
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda premium
As i already mentioned, my iso settings are set to auto. Any ideas?
i m having same issues, suddenly, the in door shots are coming with horrible noise
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
it's normal for a cell phone camera - or any type of small sensor camera, actually
Well then, why other camera apps shoot a little bit better? My old Samsung Omnia was a better shooter in this regard. Also, could you provide some photos too?
Scratch.
You edited your post.
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda premium
I did, but my iso is always on auto nevertheless
I would try three things:
- Set ISO manually. I don't have an S3, but with my S2 I get the best results by setting ISO manually.
- Turn antishake off. In general, electronic stabilization adds noise (unlike mechanical/optical stabilization which does not add noise).
- Try to hold the phone a still as possible while taking the picture.
That said, keep in mind that any small sensor camera like what you have in any phone is not going to perform well without good lighting. However the S3 should be one of the best of the phone cameras.
yes u r right that while using antishake option it produces noise thats y its off by default!! and u r wrong that it is blurry bcoz if antishake is off my gs3 takes noise free perfect pictures its has a gud BSI sensor (Cmos) try not to shake ur hands while taking pic.!
contrast is not automatic...
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
automatic contrast does lead to more noise on mine (judging from the preview window)
v1rtu4l said:
automatic contrast does lead to more noise on mine (judging from the preview window)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, In the dark the noise Is more high with automatic contrast...
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
my first gs3 phone's pictures were immaculate in doors and out, but i had overheating issues so i got a replacement...this new phones camera does this...too much noise, didn't have that with the first phone the replacement phones case came damaged so i'm hoping to exchange it once more...hopefully the next phone won't have this camera problem....
I have the same issue, I've been comparing the pics with my S2 and results are really bad indoor, except with flash. much better than S2 with flash! im really puzzled
I had posted here my cam firmware version, I'm wondering if it's the camera app or else
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=27553609&postcount=274
okay....i am not sure whether you guys have knowledge about photography
exposure is measured by 3 component
ISO, shutter speed, and aperture
as long you have sufficient light (outdoor during daylight), lowest ISO will be used by the camera and it results no noise
ISO --- sensitivity to light
you will have noise or sometimes blur in door or low light situation...
that is because aperture of camera has opened wide then it results other two components compensate to maintain proper exposure
that will increase higher ISO (more noise) and shutter speed is slower to get more light ...
hope this explains why
androb0t said:
okay....i am not sure whether you guys have knowledge about photography
exposure is measured by 3 component
ISO, shutter speed, and aperture
as long you have sufficient light (outdoor during daylight), lowest ISO will be used by the camera and it results no noise
ISO --- sensitivity to light
you will have noise or sometimes blur in door or low light situation...
that is because aperture of camera has opened wide then it results other two components compensate to maintain proper exposure
that will increase higher ISO (more noise) and shutter speed is slower to get more light ...
hope this explains why
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont think you understand that I have S3 and S2 with me and test them under the exactly same conditions and results are very different from all the tests of S3 on the web which clearly show that S3 takes better pics.
hm....it's hard to explain...unless you have DSLR and know how to do manual setting...
besides i am referring this to OP thread,NoOneCanHelpMe why there is camera blur and noise
I've messed with various camera settings, set them back to default, made sure the camera lens was clean, but my photos are always so damn grainy, especially in low light. Does anyone know how to fix this or why it might be happening? Does it have anything to do with a custom ROM/Kernel?
falkon114 said:
I've messed with various camera settings, set them back to default, made sure the camera lens was clean, but my photos are always so damn grainy, especially in low light. Does anyone know how to fix this or why it might be happening? Does it have anything to do with a custom ROM/Kernel?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure what rom you're running, so this might not be the complete source of your issue, but graininess in digital photography generally comes from the ISO. Higher ISO settings mean more grains, especially in low light. I've been on AOSP for so long that I can't remember if TW lets you mess with ISO settings on the stock camera, but if possible set your ISO to 200 and take a picture in good lighting and see if the graininess persists. I recommend leaving it on 200, anything more is going to be pretty noisy in most situations. for reference, set it to 800 and compare.
falkon114 said:
I've messed with various camera settings, set them back to default, made sure the camera lens was clean, but my photos are always so damn grainy, especially in low light. Does anyone know how to fix this or why it might be happening? Does it have anything to do with a custom ROM/Kernel?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have noticed anti-shake reduces the quality of photo's check to see if you have that on or off.
anti shake also cuts off quite a bit from the edges of the picture and enlarges what's left to fill the difference, thus amplifying any poor quality there to begin with.
broprah said:
anti shake also cuts off quite a bit from the edges of the picture and enlarges what's left to fill the difference, thus amplifying any poor quality there to begin with.
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Click to collapse
In addition it boosts the ISO to increase the shutter speed, causing grainy photos.
Anti shake is basically Hitler
Awesome, thank you for the help guys.I'll let you know how it turns out with those settings
Yes, absolutely avoid using Anti-Shake at all costs. As has been said it attempts to increase shutter speed to reduce motion blur, but it comes at the cost of increased ISO. Don't use it if you can.
For further reading please see my guide posted over at Android Central:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/ve...e-get-most-out-your-galaxy-note-2-camera.html
also holding the camera button until it focuses and beeps will take a better pic.
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Xebeck said:
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
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It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
thesoupthief said:
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
Click to expand...
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.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Xebeck said:
.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
thesoupthief said:
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
Click to expand...
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.
.
Thanks...
I didn't wanna run out of my replacement period and then realise that I should have acted
Yes, this is not a problem, a reviewer showed how the camera reacted when photo was taken from two different angles, at one angle green color was dominant while on different angle it was not.
Xebeck said:
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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Thank you for the explanation and the effort
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the explanation! I'm having some problems in places with that type of lights but not when pointing to them, just taking a normal picture, same picture can have that yellow tint, or not, just changing from one camera to the other one or moving around the photo a little bit....