Well, due to an unfortunate incident between my Titan and a washing machine, I decided to take it apart to try and clean it (and to remove a constantly on vibrating motor). Since there is no guide for this device anywhere (quick google search yielded nothing), I decided to create one myself. So, if you are ready to roll, lets take this sucker apart...
First, get the right tools. A T6 (Torx) screw driver and a good, clean pair of tweezers. (also try to get a heat gun and a case opening tool to separate the screen from the plastic frame - not pictured here)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Then, proceed to remove the back and the battery
You will see 7 screws at this point, and the eighth will be covered by a small white sticker with the word "void" on it. Mine doesn't show it for obvious reasons . Remove these screws using the screw driver that you got before.
Now, you will need to release 3 plastic latches (one on the top and two on the sides). Be very careful as they are rather easy to break.
Once you are done, you should be able to separate the inner casing from the phone/screen/motherboard assembly.
In here, you will see the vibrating motor and its connection to the motherboard. To remove it, simply take out the connector. However, you must be careful as the cables for the connector are thin and fragile. A pair of tweezers is recommended for this step, but make sure that you pull the plastic connector and not the cables themselves.
This picture also revealed anaother T6 screw (remove it) as well as one of the water damage indicators (HTC added two of these suckers and hid them well).
If you look at the bottom of the device, you will see the second water indicator as well as another T6 screw (remove it as well).
Now, this pic is not part of the guide itself but based on the discoveries on the Sensation and EVo 3D about the download mode connectors, I believe that these two may be the same, probably to put the device in service/download mode... would be interesting to try this out sometime (bootloader re-write/downgrade possible?)
Ok, back to the guide... Now, you will see that the cables connecting both ends of the motherboard are safely held by plastic holders/latches. On top of that, you will also see latches for the top part of the mother board (one on each side). Carefully, free the connecting cables are the motherboard from these latches. You could use a part of tweezers for the cables
Now comes one of the more delicate parts of the process. You will need to disconnect the two ribbon data cables from the motherboard connectors. These can easily break, and they both control touch ON THE ENTIRE FACE OF THE DEVICE, so extreme care must be used here. These can and will break if you are not careful enough or if you pull them too hard.
And this is where I messed up . There are two very small ribbon cables that connect the buttons to the motherboard. The one on the side is the one for the volume rockers and the top one is the one for the power button. Thinking that it was just a piece of tape (as it is covered in black tape) I pulled it out and broke it. DO NOT DO THAT!!! Same goes for the top one.
The screen itself is what must be removed first before attempting to separate the motherboard from the plastic shell. The connectors for the physical buttons will simply not allow you to do this easily. Moreover, the entire thing is actually glued in place (buttons and screen), so you will need a heat gun and a case opening tool to separate the screen from the housing itself, avoiding damage to the device (like I did)
Well, there you have it folks. Hopefully insight of the innards of this device can yield a bit more to develop on this great and rather sturdy device. Thanks for reading.
That's awesome that you posted this today! I was just thinking of taking mine apart to see about replacing the sd card with a 32gb sd card.
Looking over your pics though, I don't see where the SD card is! Do you recall seeing it? I did this procedure in my HTC HD7 and it worked without a problem.
On a side note, Why is the Titan out of the box only 12.89 gb? I've removed everything I can and still only get 12.89 gb to play with. Simply not enough!
Thanks and let me know the whereabouts of the sd card reader location if at all possible!
[email protected] said:
That's awesome that you posted this today! I was just thinking of taking mine apart to see about replacing the sd card with a 32gb sd card.
Looking over your pics though, I don't see where the SD card is! Do you recall seeing it? I did this procedure in my HTC HD7 and it worked without a problem.
On a side note, Why is the Titan out of the box only 12.89 gb? I've removed everything I can and still only get 12.89 gb to play with. Simply not enough!
Thanks and let me know the whereabouts of the sd card reader location if at all possible!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't have one. They changed the model to make it onboard as opposed to microSD.
As far as memory, remember that you will have some memory dedicated to the ROM itself that cannot be touched as well as possibly having a hidden ext folder like wm roms used to have (which housed the cabs placed by carriers)... However, I do think that it is likely all going for ROM and stock apps
Well that really sucks. I did read that they are going to start putting the SD card back in as extra storage space.
Any way, thanks for the pics! Did you get your phone working again?
deleted
inteller said:
My water damage indicator is near the USB plug, which I notice are not present on this model. Is this an international model?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Production model, unbranded. I should indicate this in the guide. Thanks for pointing it out.
Help to upgrade from 16 to 32 gb
egzthunder1 said:
Well, due to an unfortunate incident between my Titan and a washing machine, I decided to take it apart to try and clean it (and to remove a constantly on vibrating motor). Since there is no guide for this device anywhere (quick google search yielded nothing), I decided to create one myself. So, if you are ready to roll, lets take this sucker apart...
First, get the right tools. A T6 (Torx) screw driver and a good, clean pair of tweezers. (also try to get a heat gun and a case opening tool to separate the screen from the plastic frame - not pictured here)
Then, proceed to remove the back and the battery
You will see 7 screws at this point, and the eighth will be covered by a small white sticker with the word "void" on it. Mine doesn't show it for obvious reasons . Remove these screws using the screw driver that you got before.
Now, you will need to release 3 plastic latches (one on the top and two on the sides). Be very careful as they are rather easy to break.
Once you are done, you should be able to separate the inner casing from the phone/screen/motherboard assembly.
In here, you will see the vibrating motor and its connection to the motherboard. To remove it, simply take out the connector. However, you must be careful as the cables for the connector are thin and fragile. A pair of tweezers is recommended for this step, but make sure that you pull the plastic connector and not the cables themselves.
This picture also revealed anaother T6 screw (remove it) as well as one of the water damage indicators (HTC added two of these suckers and hid them well).
If you look at the bottom of the device, you will see the second water indicator as well as another T6 screw (remove it as well).
Now, this pic is not part of the guide itself but based on the discoveries on the Sensation and EVo 3D about the download mode connectors, I believe that these two may be the same, probably to put the device in service/download mode... would be interesting to try this out sometime (bootloader re-write/downgrade possible?)
Ok, back to the guide... Now, you will see that the cables connecting both ends of the motherboard are safely held by plastic holders/latches. On top of that, you will also see latches for the top part of the mother board (one on each side). Carefully, free the connecting cables are the motherboard from these latches. You could use a part of tweezers for the cables
Now comes one of the more delicate parts of the process. You will need to disconnect the two ribbon data cables from the motherboard connectors. These can easily break, and they both control touch ON THE ENTIRE FACE OF THE DEVICE, so extreme care must be used here. These can and will break if you are not careful enough or if you pull them too hard.
And this is where I messed up . There are two very small ribbon cables that connect the buttons to the motherboard. The one on the side is the one for the volume rockers and the top one is the one for the power button. Thinking that it was just a piece of tape (as it is covered in black tape) I pulled it out and broke it. DO NOT DO THAT!!! Same goes for the top one.
The screen itself is what must be removed first before attempting to separate the motherboard from the plastic shell. The connectors for the physical buttons will simply not allow you to do this easily. Moreover, the entire thing is actually glued in place (buttons and screen), so you will need a heat gun and a case opening tool to separate the screen from the housing itself, avoiding damage to the device (like I did)
Well, there you have it folks. Hopefully insight of the innards of this device can yield a bit more to develop on this great and rather sturdy device. Thanks for reading.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
---------------
DEAREST JUST
HELP TO UPGRADE FROM 16 TO 32 GB
HELP TO UPGRADE ,IF POSSIBLE , TO 4G LIKE TITAN II no camera....!
MANY THANKS
dpetro said:
---------------
DEAREST JUST
HELP TO UPGRADE FROM 16 TO 32 GB
HELP TO UPGRADE ,IF POSSIBLE , TO 4G LIKE TITAN II no camera....!
MANY THANKS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can not upgrade to 32 GB
Related
A couple of months ago, one of my co-worker's Palm Pre phone attempted to swim in a pool and drowned (electronically anyway). My co-worker replaced it with a Samsung Galaxy S2 and when he got it he was complaining about how much he loved his Palm touchstone inductive charger. Basically you just stick the phone near a little hockey-puck thing and magnets align it and it starts charging without connecting any wires.
We thought about it and had this great idea to mod his new SGS2 phone and at the time we thought we were the first to think of this. So, I bought an inductive charging kit on Amazon and we both mod'd our phones and I'm very happy with the inductive charging system.
While lots of people have done it for lots of different phones, this thread is about the i777 and I haven't seen any mod instructions out there for the i777 SGS2.
First you need to get a Palm Pre inductive charging kit. Go to Amazon and search for a Palm Pre inductive charging kit. They run less than $10 including shipping (yeah, seriously, I couldn't believe it either). I paid $8.35 for mine. While you are there, get a Palm Pre AC adapter... the kit is finicky about the AC adapter and most of mine didn't work with it. So that's another $3.70 (inc. shipping), so you are now up to $12 or so.
Once you get it, it should look like this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
And inside it looks like this:
Open the kit box, and you will see a touchstone that you stick on your desk that is the charger and then the Palm Pre case back cover with the inductive coil on it. Peel off the inductive coil very very carefully as well as the four silver circular magnets and try to leave everything intact. Set it aside because when you put it on you want the contacts to line up.
Now comes the fun part, taking apart the phone, soldering the wire, and then routing the wire.
To take apart the phone, your best bet is to watch a Youtube video (that's how I did it), but fundamentally, unscrew the 7 small silver screws and then carefully, use your fingernails (best) to work your way around the gap in the edge of the plastic. Or - if like me you don't really have much in the way of fingernails - use a guitar pick or a thin credit card... like a store shopper reward card. Slide it into the gap and work your way around... not too hard. Don't use anything metal or it will scuff the plastic. Just start in a corner and work your way around, be patient and don't try to take them apart until you've worked all the way around. And if this description doesn't make sense, then watch a i777 disassembly video on YouTube.
Once you are done, you need to solder a wire to a resistor at the bottom. There's a close up here:
You could try to solder to the VCC pin on the USB connector but it's tiny and I personally thought the resistor was much easier to solder to without risking shorting any pins. I suck at soldering so if I can do it, others can too. Just get a fine tip for your soldering iron, get it hot (but not red hot), put some solder on the wire, and then touch the iron to the wire and then the resistor quickly. Do it quickly to make sure you don't damage the resistor or the PCB. It took me three tries but I got it.
Then route the wire.
You can see the wire route. I routed right... if you are looking at it yourself, you might think the the left side looks better, but it's next to the antenna and I thought the right side was less risky. I routed down, across the speaker (the bare black gap at the bottom is where the speaker is), under the PCB, then crossed up, and then dodged the screw slot in the upper right of the battery compartment by tucking the wire under the plastic there. But you don't have to do it like this... do it any way you want (although I'd steer clear of the antenna), you just want to route from the VCC resistor at the botton up to wherever you want to put the contact.
For the ground connection, any of the screws, or the sim slot metal or anything else works. I used copper tape and just routed with the tape to the screw in above the upper right of the battery compartment. But it doesn't matter. The metal of the SIM card slot works too... whatever you want. Ground is easy.
When you are done, it should look like this (more or less):
I used copper tape ($5 from a hobby store, look in the jewelry section) for the contacts, then lined them up with the contacts from the Palm Pre coil by putting the stock cover with the coil onto the separated plastic from the phone and lining them up by looking at them together.
Yes, this mod is not easy, and it voids warranties, but it is magic every time you stick your phone on a touchstone and it just starts charging. I bought a touchstone for my car, and then one for my nightstand. For <$20, I have a car charger and a home charger and it's super easy to just put the phone near the touchstone and let the built-in magnets hook it up.
Things to be careful of:
Do not short anything. Make sure not to short VCC to ground on the USB connector
Do not flip the power connections. Make sure not to tie VCC on the inductor coil to ground in the phone and visa versa.
Don't damage the resistor when you solder to it. Be fast. But get a good connection too
I used a multimeter to check for shorts and to make sure that I got VCC -> VCC, GND -> GND.
Very nice, only problem I see is you should of posted to the accessories forum. But overall a very nice mod and the directions were clear.
Sent from my SGH-I777 using xda premium
Nice mod! Thanks for posting it up. What's the difference in charging time compared to charging via USB?
Sweet, the TouchStone has been one of my favorite features with my TouchPad. I saw lots of people doing this with the Galaxy Nexus, but I wasn't sure if it would work with the i777. I know what I'll be doing with my next Amazon gift card.
Sent from my Galaxy S II (i777)
Now THIS is the kind of inductive charging mod I wanted to see!
Saving the pics for later, just in case.
I see that you have a case on your S2 in the first picture, does the inductive charging work through cases?
Hasn't this been done on the sgsiiet?
Sent from Optimus-Prime's SGSII
mfreywald said:
Very nice, only problem I see is you should of posted to the accessories forum. But overall a very nice mod and the directions were clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, good point about the Accessories forum. I didn't think of that.
f1456 said:
Nice mod! Thanks for posting it up. What's the difference in charging time compared to charging via USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't timed it, but it's not significantly slower. I'm not sure what the difference is, though, because I just stick it on the charger when I go to bed and wake up and it's charged. But when I was testing it, it seemed to charge at a rate slightly slower than the USB charger.
quarlow said:
Sweet, the TouchStone has been one of my favorite features with my TouchPad. I saw lots of people doing this with the Galaxy Nexus, but I wasn't sure if it would work with the i777. I know what I'll be doing with my next Amazon gift card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. If you have any questions let me know. And send me a message when you get it working.
Ashhong said:
I see that you have a case on your S2 in the first picture, does the inductive charging work through cases?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You, my friend, have incredibly sharp eyes. I'm using a bumper case - so there's no backing to it. I don't know how well the system would work with a real case, but I'd assume you'd lose some charging current/efficiency by increasing the gap.
Optimus-Prime said:
Hasn't this been done on the sgsiiet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, but not as far as I know on an i777 and the internal routing is a bit different from SGS2 model to model.
This is a cool idea. Maybe make a side job out of it for those that don't have the patience or time to do it? I work in electronics for the semiconductor industry so I have the hardware skills but between life and work i don't know if/when i will find time to get around to doing it. Just wanted to suggest it to ya since it is a really cool idea. Thanks for sharing it.
Sent From My KickAss ATT SGS2 SPORTING my CobraRom
Nice. Would you be willing to post some higher res pictures showing the contact placement and the inductive coil installed on the back panel?
Also, were the inductive coil contacts labeled, or did you have to figure out which one was VCC and which was ground?
I've been meaning to attempt this mod after I saw a Galaxy S video showing it.
Can I get a picture of the back of the phone after everything is complete? Without the case, ofc.
sjwaste said:
Nice. Would you be willing to post some higher res pictures showing the contact placement and the inductive coil installed on the back panel?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can do ones of the inductive coil, but I'm not going to take the phone apart again... I should have taken better phones when I had it apart last night... but every time I need to put it back together, it takes a while. I think what we have will have to serve.
There's only one resistor near the USB connector so even though the photo is a bit blurry, if you take the phone apart, you'll see right away which one it is. There's not much there... just a capacitor (the yellow thing) a small IC (the black thing) and then the surface mount resistor (the orange thing in the photo).
As far as the coil, I just peeled it off of the Palm Pre kit and stuck it on the case of the i777. The only thing was lining up the contacts so that they matched the places that I put the copper tape. For that I used to back plastic that was off the phone, that the back cover would attach to, attached it as if the phone was together, and then eyeballed it from the other side.
Also, were the inductive coil contacts labeled, or did you have to figure out which one was VCC and which was ground?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a multimeter to check. But the contact farthest from the coil is 5V, and the other, the inside one closer to the coil, is GND.
yahoowizard said:
Can I get a picture of the back of the phone after everything is complete? Without the case, ofc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks like this:
It might look like the wire would interfere with a real SIM (instead of the microSIM that I have in there now) but it doesn't. Last week I was in Costa Rica and I had an ICE full SIM card in there and it worked fine. The wire doesn't push into the SIM card slot as much as it looks... or rather, you can tuck it under the plastic so that it's more out of the way.
Very snazzy. Got my parts in and going to complete this evening.
Stupid radio shack didn't have any copper tape tho...I'm going to try using the wire ends strategically placed and/or taped to get the same effect.
Sent from my SGH-I777 using XDA
I tried it last night, but it didn't work for me. I'm trying to find out what I did wrong. I solder a wire to the resistor and to the touchstone cover directly to test. Then I wrapped the ground cable around a screw and screwed it down. The tester displays that the cables are receiving all 5 volts.
Mine seems to be a different model because that "U" that is next to the resistor in the picture appears to be on top of my resistor.
I'll keep trying to see if I can get it.
chilean03n said:
I tried it last night, but it didn't work for me. I'm trying to find out what I did wrong. I solder a wire to the resistor and to the touchstone cover directly to test. Then I wrapped the ground cable around a screw and screwed it down. The tester displays that the cables are receiving all 5 volts.
Mine seems to be a different model because that "U" that is next to the resistor in the picture appears to be on top of my resistor.
I'll keep trying to see if I can get it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NVM I got it to work!
I soldered only the right side of the resistor and it works flawlessly!
Sorry, I stopped reading the forum as things got busy at work.
chilean03n said:
NVM I got it to work!
I soldered only the right side of the resistor and it works flawlessly!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. Congrats.
Mine is still working great too.
For the copper tape, I should have elaborated on that. I bought it at Michael's (a hobby/craft store). I think hobby stores that have supplies for making jewelry have it. I tried Radio Shack as well and they had no idea what I was talking about. Amazon has it too. But I think the cheapest option is a place like Hobby Lobby or Michaels or any other jewelry or stained glass window supply.
I tried aluminum tape - from Home Depot - but I had a really hard time soldering to it without soldering through it. Someone at work recommended copper tape instead.
Also, someone on another forum (I'm the moderator of the mobile devices forum at Anandtech) mentioned that their back cover has been popping off. This hasn't been a problem that I've had much - very rarely a corner will pop off after a day in my pocket, but otherwise everything fits pretty well. If people have problems with that, one could move the coil further down on the back cover and that should solve it. Or else you could use double-sided permanent tape from an office supply store and apply it to the inside cover where the cover is coming off.
I just picked up the parts to do this. $3 each for kits with charger and back from Amazon, so I picked up three. I have a couple of batteries that charge off USB that this could work for as well.
Test fit inside my otterbox commuter case seems ok, but will need more metal for the magnets in the charger to hang onto.
Tapped out by infinite monkeys on an Atari 800
just bought the parts to do this
just need the courage now
Sorry to bump an old thread, but this is an awesome mod.
@pfmahoney (or anybody else who has done this) have there been any adverse effects over time? I've read that on some other phones, you can't use the touchscreen while connected to the Touchstone. Is that the case on our model? I've also heard about overheating issues and compass issues. These reports were on other phones, though. Any thoughts?
Danation said:
Sorry to bump an old thread, but this is an awesome mod.
@pfmahoney (or anybody else who has done this) have there been any adverse effects over time? I've read that on some other phones, you can't use the touchscreen while connected to the Touchstone. Is that the case on our model? I've also heard about overheating issues and compass issues. These reports were on other phones, though. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you are right, you can't use the touchscreen while it's charging... well, actually, you can... just not the spot right in the middle. There's a circle about the size of the inductive coil that doesn't respond to input or responds erratically.
I haven't had any issues over time. I put it on the charger every night and it's been fine.
It does get a little warm, but not what I would consider excessively hot. I've had it get hotter playing games than it does on the inductive charger, but it definitely does warm up.
I have never noticed any issues with the compass - by issues, you mean the compass not working? I have never noticed that. I just tried the compass now and it seems to work fine... are these issues with the compass while it's charging? I've never tried that and I can imagine that there might be problems using the compass while it's charging inductively. If you need the compass while it's charging (for example in the car), you can always just plug it in to the USB plug - the inductive mod doesn't stop the regular USB plug from working.
Has the outer touch screen been cracked or damaged on your HTC Evo 3D? Is the inner display LCD not functioning properly or become damaged? Or are you just curious of the disassembly process on the Evo 3D? This written repair guide will walk you through all the steps required to disassemble your Evo 3D and repair a damaged screen or other internal parts in a safe, quick manner.
This guide will help you install the following HTC Evo 3D replacement part (s):
HTC Evo 3D Touch Screen Digitizer
HTC Evo 3D LCD Display Screen
HTC Evo 3D Full Housing Assembly
HTC Evo 3D Ear Speaker
HTC Evo 3D Loud Speaker
And Other HTC Evo 3D Replacement Parts
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
T3 Torx Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (For Touch Screen Replacements)
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer
HTC Evo 3D take apart repair guide:
Separate the back housing cover from the face of the phone with fingers (just as you would to replace the battery). Then remove the battery and set aside.
Using a the T5 screwdriver, remove the two center edge screws just above where the battery was located.
Then, you will use the T3 screwdriver to remove the four corner screws at the edge of the phone. Set all screws aside.
Using the pry tool, slide it into the seam and separate the face of the phone from the back housing as shown in figure 1.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Figure 1
Using the pry tool and nippers, carefully lift and separate all clips and cables that are holding the motherboard in place. These will often appear as flat pieces of metal, but are sometimes an actual ribbon, such as the camera ribbon cable.
Remove the yellow tape that will reveal two additional cables that are tucked into the motherboard. By using nippers, you can slide these out without damaging them.
The last connective piece looks like an L-shaped piece of metal, as shown in figure 2. Separate this piece carefully.
Figure 2
Carefully separate the motherboard, as it will still be connected underneath by several cables. Two of these cables are located together, and can be removed after lifting the cover tape to reveal the connection spot, as shown in figure 3.
Figure 3
After disconnecting these two cables, you can disconnect the smaller one on the other end in the same manner. Now you can safely remove the motherboard and set aside.
Remove four screws that are located at the edge of the phone with your T5 screwdriver, and lift out the cable.
The bottom blue flex cable can be removed by slowly separating all extending cables connected to it. Demonstrated in figure 4.
Figure 4
If you are replacing the touch screen digitizer or LCD screen solely, you will want to continue in the take-apart process by using your hot air gun or hair dryer to heat up the phone’s glue.
Using your pry tool, you can safely slide it around the seam of the screen to be able to remove the touch screen digitizer from the LCD screen, allowing you to replace either of these parts individually.
Now you will be able to replace any parts on your HTC Evo 3D. Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.
Nice tutorial.
This needs to be on the stickies
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Indeed... very awesome tutorial, sir! My digitizer's already been replaced once. I couldn've just gotten a new one but I wasn't tryin' to deal with the 1.50 hboot at the time. Kudos to you, my friend!
Thanks for the support guys!
Glad you find it useful we'll be posting more for different models shortly.
Why thread no sticky yet???
Sent in the request. Hopefully a mod will see it worthy enough to be stickied. Great guide!
This is fanf*****gtastic!!!!!
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
ohh, I just got an digitizer frm hk. cheap 14$. I will get it by the end of this week. just afraid to do it myself. but with your help it is like DIY
thanks bro.
Guide stuck!
Thanks for compiling all this information. It is always good to have this kind of information handy.
Tanks
Tanks Nice tutorial!
has anybody here done the digitizer replacement? got any tips? do i need new adhesive thing for it?
Hi,
We've done the repair many times. With all these kind of things we always recommend taking it slowly.
You will need adhesive strips to reattach the new screen. We always recommend fresh adhesive over trying to reuse the old adhesive to create a secure bond.
You can find these here - Adhesive strips
Thanks, I just had an LCD replaced and the screen doesn't fit right so I wanted to try and fix it myself.
touch digitizer
So... I got it just about completely taken apart except that the ribbon to the touch screen digitizer wraps behind the LCD and I can't seem to get it or the LCD out. I (unintentionally) ripped most of the digitizer ribbon away from its body while removing it - wasn't too worried about it since I figured I'd be replacing it anyway - but now I can't seem to get what's left of it out or a new one in.. Oops.. a semi-functional digitizer was certainly better than what I have now. Help???!!
biphobip said:
So... I got it just about completely taken apart except that the ribbon to the touch screen digitizer wraps behind the LCD and I can't seem to get it or the LCD out. I (unintentionally) ripped most of the digitizer ribbon away from its body while removing it - wasn't too worried about it since I figured I'd be replacing it anyway - but now I can't seem to get what's left of it out or a new one in.. Oops.. a semi-functional digitizer was certainly better than what I have now. Help???!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
This should be quite a straight forward fix. Can you private message me a photo of the point you are at and I can explain exactly what is required to get your phone back like new again.
biphobip said:
So... I got it just about completely taken apart except that the ribbon to the touch screen digitizer wraps behind the LCD and I can't seem to get it or the LCD out. I (unintentionally) ripped most of the digitizer ribbon away from its body while removing it - wasn't too worried about it since I figured I'd be replacing it anyway - but now I can't seem to get what's left of it out or a new one in.. Oops.. a semi-functional digitizer was certainly better than what I have now. Help???!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you didn't take out or at least loosen the adhesive under your LCD you need to do this to be able to pull the LCD at least partially out on top so that you can get the digitizer ribbon cable behind the LCD and through the opening behind the LCD.
Thanks alot for the guide!
I was running for the bus and my one week old evo 3d fell from my pocket The front housing was pretty scratched but I had a back case and screen protector on which saved the back and the screen. I just bought a replacement front housing and I'm gonna try put it on now using the guide
ronilzizou said:
Thanks alot for the guide!
I was running for the bus and my one week old evo 3d fell from my pocket The front housing was pretty scratched but I had a back case and screen protector on which saved the back and the screen. I just bought a replacement front housing and I'm gonna try put it on now using the guide
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope your repair goes smoothly. Let us know if you have any questions.
Awesome Guide, I just used it to replace my own digitizer and it worked a charm
Thanks
Yeh things didnt go quiet as planned....
Managed to get the phone almost completely apart.
Got stuck trying to take out the LCD from the digitizer so i could replace the front housing, i cant get the friggin thing loose! Basically ill have to get a new digitizer so i can get this one out properly by cutting the wire (Plus i think i might have screwed it up anyway) AND also my hand slipped while taking it apart and the pry tool went over the LCD screen so it's got a little scratch on it
on a side note, i do have insurance on it through a bank which covers accidental and malicious damage, lose or theft so might be able to claim a new phone if things get worse!
This take apart written guide shows how to replace various parts on your HTC Amaze 4G. You will learn on this guide the steps on how to properly take your HTC smartphone apart safely and repair nearly any internal parts of your phone.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC Amaze 4G part(s):
HTC Amaze 4G Touch Screen Digitizer Replacements
Other HTC Amaze 4G Parts
Tools:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Torx T5 Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (For Touch Screen Repairs)
Heat Gun/Hair Dryer
HTC Amaze 4G Take Apart Repair Guide:
To begin, remove the back battery cover, battery, sim card, and memory card.
Remove the seven (7) Torx T5 screws as located in Figure 1.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Figure 1
You can now remove the back housing from the rest of the smartphone. Do this by carefully using a safe open pry tool to lift the outer edges, unclipping each clip holding the housing in place.
With the back cover removed, you now have access to the motherboard. The upper portion of the motherboard will have one connection located on the back side of the motherboard. Carefully lift the motherboard away from the rest of the screen assembly and carefully release this connection. It will be a "jaw" connector, so you will need to carefully lift the back flap of the connector and slide the flex cable out of the connection.
Gently fold the motherboard towards the bottom of the phone. There are two (2) flex cables that will need to be released. Both will be covered by mylar tape. Remove the tape and release both jawbone connectors. With these flex cables released, you can remove the motherboard from the rest of the phone.
Figure 2
Now, heat the front of the screen using a hair dryer or heat gun. Use quick movements, not staying in one area for too long. Medium - high heat will be required to properly warm the adhesive holding the screen assembly in place. Take your time and reheat as required. Also be aware of the 2 flex cables that are located under the screen assembly (touch screen and LCD screen flex cables).
Figure 3
Once the screen assembly has been removed from the housing, you can now use a small flat head screwdriver or similar to carefully separate the LCD screen from the touch screen digitizer. Heat may be required.
You can now replace either the touch screen digitizer or the LCD screen.
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.
Nice write up
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using xda premium
excellent thread
Thanks guys!
Appreciate the support!! Hope it helps!!
Added this to The HTC amaze all you need to know thread
Sticky Glue
Just a quick q, the digitizer is glued to the lcd screen. When separating the digitizer from the lcd there's a lot of glue residue left on the lcd. So of course the question is how to remove the glue and what do you use to glue the new digitizer to the LCD? Any detail would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance
The best way to remove the adhesive is to heat it. You can use a hot blow dryer, this will loosen the adhesive bond. You can purchase adhesive strips from our website when sealing it back together.
Thanks
repairsuniverse said:
The best way to remove the adhesive is to heat it. You can use a hot blow dryer, this will loosen the adhesive bond. You can purchase adhesive strips from our website when sealing it back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your help!
Test Lcd
Paul, I'm interested in purchasing Digitizer and Sticky Strip but am also considering LCD/Digitizer already assembled. Is there any way to test lcd screen once taken apart to ensure I haven't damaged it while taking apart.
Thanks
hooutoo said:
Paul, I'm interested in purchasing Digitizer and Sticky Strip but am also considering LCD/Digitizer already assembled. Is there any way to test lcd screen once taken apart to ensure I haven't damaged it while taking apart.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can do a visual check if you are worried that you have physically damaged, however the easiest way would be to have it installed in the phone and power on. If it works as normal it is fine.
just got an amaze with a cracked screen, gona take the digitizer apart first before ordering any parts, but i'll post some pics. and i'll connect the lcd to test and make sure that i didn't damage it lol and for the one who wanted to test maybe that will help you
EDIT: Can't change just the digitizer, i did my vivid and sensation (as well as every htc phone i've had) but this one is different, it's done iphone 4 style, can't separate the glass from the lcd. gota get the assembly. i'll post pictures later
Screen / Digitizer
So you can't replace just the screen / digitizer?
You can replace the LCD and the touch screen digitizer as one fused part or you can replace the LCD and the touch screen digitizer separately.
Power button connection?
The repair has gone well so far however i have run into a problem when putting it back together. the cable leading from the power button was just glued to the motherboard and i just peeled it off to remove the motherboard. Now how do i reattach this connector?
parth515 said:
The repair has gone well so far however i have run into a problem when putting it back together. the cable leading from the power button was just glued to the motherboard and i just peeled it off to remove the motherboard. Now how do i reattach this connector?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually you will find it still has enough "Stick" to simply put back into place. If however it doesn't you will need adhesive strips. These can be found here - Adhesive Strips
repairsuniverse said:
Usually you will find it still has enough "Stick" to simply put back into place. If however it doesn't you will need adhesive strips. These can be found here - Adhesive Strips
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just ordered parts from your site, including adhesive strips, i might be pestering you when they arrive if i run into any snags. Thanks for the write up though ,
Replaced Screen - Stuck in Boot Loop (I think)
So, I followed the instructions, was as careful as possible and didn't tear or break anything that I can see or feel. But when I try to turn the phone on, it just vibrates once like it does at normal start up.... then continue to vibrate once at about 15 second intervals and the screen remains black. The LED lights up when I plug it in to power, so that bit seems to be ok. Both pressing the power button and plugging into power starts the vibrating loop. If I attach it to computer, the device does not show up. Any tips or suggestions or where I might be running into an issue?
Edit: The phone software is stock - this is my first foray into doing anything besides popping the back cover off and taking the battery out. Just to double check, I took the new screen out and reassembled with the old one and get the same issue, so it's not the new screen that's defective. The old screen was working just find despite the many cracks from screen-planting on pavement.
[*]Once the screen assembly has been removed from the housing, you can now use a small flat head screwdriver or similar to carefully separate the LCD screen from the touch screen digitizer. Heat may be required.
[*]You can now replace either the touch screen digitizer or the LCD screen.
[/LIST]
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.[/QUOTE]
Tenar13 said:
So, I followed the instructions, was as careful as possible and didn't tear or break anything that I can see or feel. But when I try to turn the phone on, it just vibrates once like it does at normal start up.... then continue to vibrate once at about 15 second intervals and the screen remains black. The LED lights up when I plug it in to power, so that bit seems to be ok. Both pressing the power button and plugging into power starts the vibrating loop. If I attach it to computer, the device does not show up. Any tips or suggestions or where I might be running into an issue?
Edit: The phone software is stock - this is my first foray into doing anything besides popping the back cover off and taking the battery out. Just to double check, I took the new screen out and reassembled with the old one and get the same issue, so it's not the new screen that's defective. The old screen was working just find despite the many cracks from screen-planting on pavement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
It's hard to say exactly what is causing the issue without seeing the phone but it's sounds like everything hasn't been re-installed correctly. Check over the installation and make sure everything is fully connected.
repairsuniverse said:
Hi,
It's hard to say exactly what is causing the issue without seeing the phone but it's sounds like everything hasn't been re-installed correctly. Check over the installation and make sure everything is fully connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When plugging the three connectors back into the motherboard, how far in should they be? I tried to push them in as far as possible, but I was afraid of jamming something or tearing the tabs on the side. If I check and everything is fully connected, what could other possible issues be? Thanks very much for your time.
Tenar13 said:
When plugging the three connectors back into the motherboard, how far in should they be? I tried to push them in as far as possible, but I was afraid of jamming something or tearing the tabs on the side. If I check and everything is fully connected, what could other possible issues be? Thanks very much for your time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to force the connection, just press in as far as it will go (with the jaw unlocked). The side tabs should be close to connector itself, but will not make contact. Once fitted, lock it in place with the jaw and try testing again.
Broken screen on your Nokia Lumia 920? This repair guide will walk you through all the steps required to safely and effectively repair a damaged screen or other internal components on your Lumia 920.
This guide will help you install the following Nokia Lumia 920 part (s):
Nokia Lumia 920 LCD + Touch Screen Assembly
Other internal parts on the Lumia 920
Required Tools.
Safe Pry Opening Tool
T5 Torx Screwdriver
T3 Torx Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips
Heat Gun/Hair Dryer
Lumia 920 Repair Guide:
To begin your repair you will need to fully power off your Nokia Lumia. Once it is powered off you can begin by removing the two (2) Torx T5 screws located on the bottom of the device near the USB port.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Figure 1
Once these screws are removed you can then use a safe open pry tool to pry in between the screen and the housing. Start near the bottom and slowly work your way around the edges, releasing the screen assembly and motherboard from the back housing. Be cautious of a flex cable still attached from the back housing to the motherboard.
Gently flip the housing over but be careful not to tear the connected flex. You can now remove the small metal plate covering the connection of this flex cable. It will have two (2) prongs located on the top side of the motherboard that will need to be released in order to fully remove the metal plate.
Figure 2
With the metal plate removed you will be able to safely disconnect this pop connector and place the back housing to the side.
Figure 3
There will be one more pop connector located under this metal plate which will attach to the button flex cable running along the side of the device. Use a pry tool to gently release the connection and lift the cable away from the housing. It will be held in place with adhesive so take your time and be sure not to tear this flex cable. Once released it can be put to the side for reassembly.
Figure 4
Using a Torx T5 screwdriver you will need to remove the three (3) screws located on the right side of the device. With these screws removed you can then remove one more T5 screw located in the bottom left corner, near the battery.
With this screw removed you will be able to remove the metal bracket and plastic filler located at the bottom of the battery.
The lower connections near the battery can now be released. This will include 2 pop connectors and releasing the cables and moving them away from the housing. There is a bit of adhesive holding one of the flex cables to the housing, so be cautious not to damage these.
The battery is now ready to be released and removed. To do this, gently pry up on battery connections flex cable and release it from the motherboard. With the battery released you can now gently pry up the battery, insuring not to bend it or damage it.
Figure 5
There are now three (3) torx T3 screws that will need to be removed in order to remove the motherboard from the device. With these screws removed you will then be able to lift the full housing and motherboard assembly away from the screen assembly (and front housing). To do this, pry along the RIGHT edge of the device. Be cautions and the left side is located under small pieces of metal housing which can cause damage to the motherboard. Once the upper right section of the motherboard and housing are released you can release the four (4) clips holding the lower section in place. Two will be in the lower battery compartment and the other two will be plastic near the bottom of the device. With these released you will be able to lift the board slightly and slide it to the right and away from the screen assembly.
Figure 6
With the motherboard now removed you can now heat the front and back of the assembly using a heat gun or hair dryer. Use medium heat for about 30 seconds on each side of the screen, consistently moving the heat to insure you do not burn or melt one area. Stay a few inches away and thoroughly heat the adhesive holding the LCD and touch screen to the front frame. With the adhesive warmed you will be able to use a safe open pry tool to gently begin prying along the outside edges of the front frame to lift the LCD and touch screen out as one piece. With this complete you can then clean up any leftover adhesive and replace your screen assembly.
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your Lumia back together.
Replacing the motherboard main flex cable
Hi,
In you fig.6 you have the motherboard and its flex cable as one piece, but can you say how to detach them? I need to try that if a new main flex cable could save my older Lumia 920 which took some water inside of it.
I have taken apart every piece that I was able to get but dont know how the flex cable is attached to the motherboard. Is it somekind of a glue? Or is it soldered? Can it be replaced w/o expert skills?
anttmaki said:
Hi,
In you fig.6 you have the motherboard and its flex cable as one piece, but can you say how to detach them? I need to try that if a new main flex cable could save my older Lumia 920 which took some water inside of it.
I have taken apart every piece that I was able to get but dont know how the flex cable is attached to the motherboard. Is it somekind of a glue? Or is it soldered? Can it be replaced w/o expert skills?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That flex cable is attached to the motherboard which most likely cannot be replaced. Have you tried using alcohol and a q-tip to clean up all of the components that could have water damage?
anttmaki said:
Hi,
In you fig.6 you have the motherboard and its flex cable as one piece, but can you say how to detach them? I need to try that if a new main flex cable could save my older Lumia 920 which took some water inside of it.
I have taken apart every piece that I was able to get but dont know how the flex cable is attached to the motherboard. Is it somekind of a glue? Or is it soldered? Can it be replaced w/o expert skills?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI,
I got spare flex cable to repair my water damaged phone...better wait me to get it from repair shop and now if main flex change do the work
What is the problem with yours ? mine is complete draying its battery. it has high consumption and the charger couldn't manage to deal this .
repairsuniverse said:
That flex cable is attached to the motherboard which most likely cannot be replaced. Have you tried using alcohol and a q-tip to clean up all of the components that could have water damage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All of the phone's parts have been cleaned with electronic component cleaning liquid. Few of the flex cable's connectors are just too oxizidized. Thats the reason I thought of changing the flex cable - and also it is a cheap way to test if I could bring the phone back to life.
I got a hint that the connector could have been attached to the mainboard with ACF- tape... Could it be that? (I cant post a link to ACF wikipage but you can find it with Google quite easily. )
boril said:
HI,
I got spare flex cable to repair my water damaged phone...better wait me to get it from repair shop and now if main flex change do the work
What is the problem with yours ? mine is complete draying its battery. it has high consumption and the charger couldn't manage to deal this .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone was quite a while in the water (got time to dive it back from the murky water) and afterwards it was in a rice bag for a week or two. I couldnt charge it with usb cord or via wireless charger. The phone only got warm. So that phone is quite dead. And the phone has been like that for many months. I just got it open few days ago and thought it would be nice to try to get it working again.
It's possible, but to be honest I'm not sure.
Sorry for the dead thread revival.
I'm having some issues with a 920 replacement display assembly. After the replacement, the display won't show the "NOKIA" boot logo, only white noise, then it is upside down, and mirrored.
Can this be fixed somehow, or should I ask for a refund?
fonix232 said:
Sorry for the dead thread revival.
I'm having some issues with a 920 replacement display assembly. After the replacement, the display won't show the "NOKIA" boot logo, only white noise, then it is upside down, and mirrored.
Can this be fixed somehow, or should I ask for a refund?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there.
After replacing the LCD I now have the same exact problem, did you manage to solve it somehow? I can't seem to find any proper info on that online. I put in the old LCD back (cracked, though) and it is working fine in that matter, nothing is upside down.
Cheers.
Warning: This MOD will void your warranty. You will have to open the device for performing this MOD. Only perform this MOD if you are willing to take a risk.
I took inspiration from Zack from JerryRigEverything to make a clear back MOD of our Honor 8.
It took me around and hour to do this. The only tool I used is a razor blade and scissors.
RESULT:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Guide:
(NOTE: I am not responsible for any damage you do to your own phone.
1. Slowly remove the rear glass by heating the glass with a heat gun and lifting it with a suction cup.
(You can find many guides on removal of back glass on YouTube.)
2. Remove the connection between fingerprint scanner and the motherboard.
3. Remove the leftover adhesive on the phone.
4. Stick transparent double sided tape around the phone. Make sure you don't cover the camera lens, flashlight and laser.
5. Clean the Glass:
-You can slowly scrape off the lamination by using your finger nails or with tip of the razor blade.
(I noticed that there is a heat shield that is present on the lamination, so by doing this MOD you will loose it.)
-If you use razor blade, the glass might get scratched easily.
-Before cleaning near the fingerprint scanner, remember the orientation of the scanner.
-Use transparent double sided tape to stick the FP sensor back into its original orientation.
-Clean the whole inside of the glass and get rid of fingerprints and stickiness.
6. Reconnect the FP sensor cable back to the motherboard.
7. Stick the glass back to the phone and apply pressure around the glass to make the glass stick firmly.
I am posting this after using the phone for 3 days and as there is no heat shield, there is not much heat on the glass.
This is so head turning that many were curious about this.
MORE IMAGES (with guide)
Amazing, been searching for this but only found a Honor9 till now, gonna do it as soon as i found the Clear double side tape, good work.
kmry said:
Amazing, been searching for this but only found a Honor9 till now, gonna do it as soon as i found the Clear double side tape, good work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mate. Do share your results!
Ah, hello, fellow transparent Honor 8 user!
I just did a sin.
This sin. https://imgur.com/gallery/rD6Srsd
I put that on my phone.
But, other than that, I made my phone transparent last year, and have always been screwing around with it. Here's some advice from me:
The honor logo on the glass itself can come off. Just a *little* harder scratching and it'll come off.
The shielding on the motherboard PCB is detachable. It kinda clips in place, so it can be "pulled" off. It looks MUCH better with it removed.
In fact, a lot of things can come off and be fine. The flash diffuser can be replaced with Scotch tape, the fingerprint sensor and screen connector bracket can be removed, some metal can come off...
ok maybe I lost the flash diffuser and fingerprint connector and screen connector bracket but you get the idea.
You can put anything behind that wonderful glass. I used to have a piece of paper with my name on it, but I removed it. Now I put in, uh, an ahegao image, and it's secured nicely.
That's all I have to say. Good job on this, btw, yours looks nice and secured but my back glass keeps detaching from the adhesive, no matter how much I put on. Maybe it's because the plastic layer in between is stretched out and tries to force itself out of the phone...
Noorquacker said:
Ah, hello, fellow transparent Honor 8 user!
I just did a sin.
This sin. https://imgur.com/gallery/rD6Srsd
I put that on my phone.
But, other than that, I made my phone transparent last year, and have always been screwing around with it. Here's some advice from me:
The honor logo on the glass itself can come off. Just a *little* harder scratching and it'll come off.
The shielding on the motherboard PCB is detachable. It kinda clips in place, so it can be "pulled" off. It looks MUCH better with it removed.
In fact, a lot of things can come off and be fine. The flash diffuser can be replaced with Scotch tape, the fingerprint sensor and screen connector bracket can be removed, some metal can come off...
ok maybe I lost the flash diffuser and fingerprint connector and screen connector bracket but you get the idea.
You can put anything behind that wonderful glass. I used to have a piece of paper with my name on it, but I removed it. Now I put in, uh, an ahegao image, and it's secured nicely.
That's all I have to say. Good job on this, btw, yours looks nice and secured but my back glass keeps detaching from the adhesive, no matter how much I put on. Maybe it's because the plastic layer in between is stretched out and tries to force itself out of the phone...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much.
Does removing the RF shielding on the motherboard cause any problem (regarding heat or other)??
vssrinath said:
Thank you so much.
Does removing the RF shielding on the motherboard cause any problem (regarding heat or other)??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that I know of. I've had my phone near microwaves and stuff without any issues. Most of the heat is generated on the other side of the PCB, with the SoC, but that heat gets dissipated through the aluminum frame of the phone with thermal pads. In fact, once I hit a capacitor with my pliers because there's additional metal under there that I tried to remove, and the tiny capacitor got ripped off, but my phone still works fine. No issues of any sort.
Noorquacker said:
Not that I know of. I've had my phone near microwaves and stuff without any issues. Most of the heat is generated on the other side of the PCB, with the SoC, but that heat gets dissipated through the aluminum frame of the phone with thermal pads. In fact, once I hit a capacitor with my pliers because there's additional metal under there that I tried to remove, and the tiny capacitor got ripped off, but my phone still works fine. No issues of any sort.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Woah, will remove those shields soon.
I'm thinking to stick a carbon fiber vinyl on the battery (just like mi 8 explorer edition), or anything cool.
Could you suggest some ?
Noorquacker said:
Ah, hello, fellow transparent Honor 8 user!
I just did a sin.
This sin. https://imgur.com/gallery/rD6Srsd
I put that on my phone.
But, other than that, I made my phone transparent last year, and have always been screwing around with it. Here's some advice from me:
The honor logo on the glass itself can come off. Just a *little* harder scratching and it'll come off.
The shielding on the motherboard PCB is detachable. It kinda clips in place, so it can be "pulled" off. It looks MUCH better with it removed.
In fact, a lot of things can come off and be fine. The flash diffuser can be replaced with Scotch tape, the fingerprint sensor and screen connector bracket can be removed, some metal can come off...
ok maybe I lost the flash diffuser and fingerprint connector and screen connector bracket but you get the idea.
You can put anything behind that wonderful glass. I used to have a piece of paper with my name on it, but I removed it. Now I put in, uh, an ahegao image, and it's secured nicely.
That's all I have to say. Good job on this, btw, yours looks nice and secured but my back glass keeps detaching from the adhesive, no matter how much I put on. Maybe it's because the plastic layer in between is stretched out and tries to force itself out of the phone...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did the same till recently got bored of it and bought a new blue glass cover, if you really wanna make sure the glass stays glued, you have to use transparent b7000 adhesive, and if you lost the plastic flash diffuser like me, with the glue, make a circle arround the flash, so dust dont come in to the camera and destroy it.
Here: http://imgur.com/gallery/iSd5PDp