I didn't get much response on my previous question about proxy support for the stock rom, so I was wondering if any of the alternate roms include it. I would very much like to have access to the internet at work, but the school district requires loggon through a proxy server (content filter) before you can access the WiFi network. I realize that port restrictions that the district places on the network will likely prevent me from accessing the market, gmail, or voice search. But at school, I would most like to just access flash based educational website for kids.
Any thoughts on this? The district is moving toward ipads as the tablet platform of choice because of the lack of proxy support with Android. But the ipads lack of support for flash really hinders what I want a tablet to be able to do for me. (Yes, I want my cake and eat it too!) Is this too much to ask?
I connect my gtab to my schools wirelesss that is using 802.1x EAP for wireless security. I had to install a mod that changed the settings app and allowed advanced wireless settings. That allowed me to put in the authentication type, domain name, password, etc. Once connected, I ran a mod that set it back to the original settings apps. I asked in your previous post as to whether you are having problems actually getting on the wireless or once on, you can't bet by the web filter. We use websense here. Once I got on the wireless, there was an websense authentication dialog that popped up. Once I put my domain\username and password in, it works fine.
It won't even let me connect to the district network because I don't have anywhere to enter the proxy settings in the wifi set up box.
Assuming you have Pershoot's or Clemsyn's Kernel (or one of the better ROMs), you need something like ASProxy. I use it at work all the time and it does the job. There is a free program called TransParentProxy which is more limited but does allow you to quickly test settings without spending any money.
I do not see a proxy settings in the wpa_supplicant.conf file. My understanding of this file is it lists all possible settings settings available for Wi-Fi configurations.
# This file describes configuration file format and lists all available option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Previously I've only needed to access a proxy after connecting to the network. Perhaps you have run into a problem getting connected to your network using the tablets Wi-Fi settings manager. So connecting to the network might be your first step and then connecting to the proxy your 2nd.
I found the free Wifi Advanced Config Editor (WifiACE on the Android Market) to have a GUI to easily configure advanced Wi-Fi settings not found in the tablet's settings. I realized when trying to set up an advanced configuration I needed to create a new connection in the tablets WiFi Settings with the security of NONE to avoid having some of the wrong settings configured by default. Then using the information from the my network admin I manually set the options via the WifACE GUI, un-checking NONE, and bingo I got connected.
I recommend WiFiACe with one caveat: make sure you have a way (like adb) working and know how to backup, delete, and restore files and that you make a back up of all wpa_supplicant.conf files on your tablet.
My caveat comes because my first reboot after I got connected to the Enterprise network at work the Wifi would not start or run. It would only display "error" and do nothing. Several reboots later it still wouldn't start and without Wi-Fi running there is no way to make configuration changes either through WifiACE or the tablets Wi-Fi Settings. I had to use the adb shell to delete the newly configured wap_supplicant.conf and create a new connection via the tablets Wi-Fi Settings and then make the necessary changes through WifiACE. Once that was done it ran and connected. Now after multiple reboots it still works and connects. Without the ability to delete the file I'm afraid I would have had to re-flash my tablet to get Wi-Fi to work again.
I don't think you've ever mentioned what ROM you're running. If you're running stock, you will have a very difficult time, in fact it may be impossible. If you're running a different mod, there's hope. Now, assuming that you got ClockWordMod (CWM) installed, you can probably be successful in at least connecting to the wireless. If you don't have CWM installed, here's a good place to start:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=865245
Once you have CWM installed, go to this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=857939
This will give you the zips for installing a differernt wireless config tool that will allow you to put in the 802.1x EAP config. Once you can successfully connect, you back out the the tool you installed.
I've been banging my head trying to get this working this week. Ultimately, I got my HTC Evo View to connect to my Sprint Epic. Thought I would share the method. Tested in 3G and with Wifi.
Here's the lowdown:
Devices
Sprint Epic
SPD-D700
Android 2.3.7
CyanogenMod-7-01242012-NIGHTLY-Epic
Build GWK74
HTC Evo Flyer
Hardware Version 0001
Android 3.2.1
Rooted
Needed Software
PDANet Tablet 1.06 on both devices
Auto Proxy (ROOT) Auto Proxy on Tablet
https://market.android.com/details?...EsImdwYy5teXdlYi5oaW5ldC5uZXQuQXV0b1Byb3h5Il0.
Steps
1. I started by installing PDANet on both devices.
2. Turn on Airplane mode and then turn on bluetooth on the tablet. Turn on bluetooth on the phone. Pair both devices. (Don't know if this step is necessary but this is what I did first).
3. In Auto Proxy, I set Proxy Host to 127.0.0.1 and Proxy Port to 1234. I did this because the proxy settings click through button in PDANet was not giving my proxy settings on the Tablet. After doing this, I was able to click on the "Proxy Settings" button inside PDANet on the tablet and it took me to the proxy settings, which I again set to to 127.0.0.1 and 1234.
4. On the Epic (phone) I enabled PDANet as server. Do the next steps before your phone is no longer bluetooth discoverable.
5. On the tablet, I enabled PDANet as client. Then pushed the proxy settings button, set the proxy settings, as described in step 3. You may have to click the proxy settings button a couple times in PDANet before it goes to the right place.
6. Click the connect link inside of PDANet on the View. Make sure you do this within the allotted time that your phone is still discoverable through Bluetooth.
7. Test your connection. For me it worked like a charm.
Cheers,
javahead76
I just wanted to mention. If you want to access the internet through other means again (revert), you will need to clear proxy settings and save in both apps. Then you probably won't need to mess with anymore.
Also, PDANet Tablet Beta was hard to find on the internet, but I did eventually find it.
Can you please upload the Pdanet 1.06 somewhere? It's not available in the market anymore.
Hello fellaz, with new firmware .28 comes new feature enable ethernet device when screen is off.
Works great BUT...
If you check this "feature" and remove your prime from dock function will be still on (doesn't depned if the dockl and ethernet device is presented or not), this function avoid prime to go into deep sleep state!!
So you have to place prime back into dock, insert ethernet device (until insert eth. device you won't see Ethernet options in the settings) and after that uncheck this option. After this move you can remove ethernet device and your tablet will go to the deep sleep.
So if you have your prime on the AC it's not problem but don't forget to turn this feature off when you will be without ethernet device.
Cya!
Thanks for the heads up! I was not even aware the WAS as "Use Ethernet when sleeping" option cause I am just investigating which adapters work. I assume this is USB to Ethernet. Can you tell me which adapter you have? I would love to let my Prime switch to Ethernet updating when sleeping. Among other things I want to try with hard wired connection. Thanks!
Well I have officially nonsupported but...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1705759
If you have some usb -> ethernet which won't work for you we can build module for it.
OK so I have an incredible problem and I swear I'm not bs you guys, I'm not a troll, it's true.
So, a few weeks ago I bought a Meecol M8S Pro (Amlogic S912, Android 7.1, ARM Cortex A53, 3GB RAM) from Gearbest. The box itself is all right, but it causes a problem I never seen in my life and I never thought it would be possible for any device to do.
Basically, when I turn on the android box, as soon goes in to home screen, right after the splash / intro "Meecol", it messes my Fastweb modem and all my devices can't connect to internet!
They see my WiFi but it's a " Internet but no connection". As u can see from the picture attached, LEDs on my modem goes red, showing some problems. Only turning off the box and rebooting the modem fixes the problem for all the devices. The most incredible thing is that modem "goes crazy" even BEFORE the box actually connects to his WiFi. In those seconds the box goes into home screen and is stll searching WiFi , I can already see my modem is already messed up! Note that if I keep all my devices turned on (the android box too) and THEN reboot / turn on my modem, everything is OK and they all connect, but obviously this is no solution to reboot my modem every time...
I can only assume is some problem related to IP addresses or something, I went in to settings but everything seems all right. What could it be? And how the hell a single android device can mess a modem and connection for all devices?!?!
Change from DHCP settings to manually assigned IP addresses.
Downunder35m said:
Change from DHCP settings to manually assigned IP addresses.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do u mean Settings > WiFi > -my network properties- > Advanced Options > IP > I have to switch from DHCP to Static? What parameters do I have to set? I see IP Address, Gateway, DNS1, DNS 2...
By the way, in the attachment you can see from my modem settings, how i see all my devices when leds on moden are red, "Internet without connection" for all devices
- The Android Box
- My Notebook
- My Philips smart tv
- One Chromecast in the kitchen
- My Nexus 5
There are plenty of tutorials showing how assign static IP addresses on a device.
Since it is slightly different for all in the menu I can't give you specific advice on that bit.
Your router offers an IP range for your devices and you have to assign a unique IP to every device that connects.
E.G.: Router home page is on 192.168.0.1
Set IP range in the router is 192.168.0.10 to 192.168.0.255
Then every device needs and IP within this range, the default gateway is your routers IP.
DNS use Google's default 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4
I
Downunder35m said:
There are plenty of tutorials showing how assign static IP addresses on a device.
Since it is slightly different for all in the menu I can't give you specific advice on that bit.
Your router offers an IP range for your devices and you have to assign a unique IP to every device that connects.
E.G.: Router home page is on 192.168.0.1
Set IP range in the router is 192.168.0.10 to 192.168.0.255
Then every device needs and IP within this range, the default gateway is your routers IP.
DNS use Google's default 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see...can I just set static IP for the android box and keep DHCP for all the rest? Or do I have to change to Static for all of them?
P.S. Nevermind, I figured out...OK, I'll do some tests...
Best to do it for all devices.
How did your test go?
I assume all working as expected now?
Downunder35m said:
Best to do it for all devices.
How did your test go?
I assume all working as expected now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still testing...first time I set IP static, right after that, at the first boot, modem went crazy again...but just once. After that time, everything is OK. So, still testing...
OK a little update. Basically the IP static thing it was working...randomly. Sometimes working, sometimes no, sometimes it didn't make any difference.
But I just found out something very odd. If I forget my WiFi password on the android box and I turn it on (so basically it won't even try to connect, because it doesn't know the password anymore...like a new network)...the router still goes crazy! How the hell is this possible???
P.s. as u can see, the WiFi's android box is not even turned on!
I don't know your router but it could be a safety feature.
Some turn the WiFi off if there were too many unauthorised access attempts.
As the box has dual wifi it might be that it tries to connect on both frequencies at the same time.
In case your router is dual band too try to turn off one band and see if that helps.
Downunder35m said:
I don't know your router but it could be a safety feature.
Some turn the WiFi off if there were too many unauthorised access attempts.
As the box has dual wifi it might be that it tries to connect on both frequencies at the same time.
In case your router is dual band too try to turn off one band and see if that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
U didnt get the point. Read carefully my previous post. Wifi's android box is OFF! It doesn't even TRY to connect to my network! Basically , being turned on near the router is enough! I know it sounds absurd, but that's what happens. See the video. What kind of impulse - emp - vodoo waves this thing have?!?!
You are right, I missed that bit, sorry.
But it might explain the problem!
Just for fun: Place the box in a big tin can or small metal bucket so the metal hields it into the direction of your router.
If the router performs fine now then you found the culprit named interference.
Always had it the other way around though, wiFi devices for example messing with my DVB-T receivers...
In your case I see two possible culprits: The power supply and the box itself.
For the power supply you could try if the box works (for a test only) by using a USB cable to power it.
If shielding the box helps then we might have to find out what causes the interference or find a way to shield the box without buckets and cans.
Downunder35m said:
You are right, I missed that bit, sorry.
But it might explain the problem!
Just for fun: Place the box in a big tin can or small metal bucket so the metal hields it into the direction of your router.
If the router performs fine now then you found the culprit named interference.
Always had it the other way around though, wiFi devices for example messing with my DVB-T receivers...
In your case I see two possible culprits: The power supply and the box itself.
For the power supply you could try if the box works (for a test only) by using a USB cable to power it.
If shielding the box helps then we might have to find out what causes the interference or find a way to shield the box without buckets and cans.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, don't bother that, I just found out something potentially important. I tried every possible solution and combination possible, thinking if its not wifi or Bluetooth interference, I thought "...uhm even of its not connected to wifi or Bluetooth to anything, it is connect trough HDMI to my TV...and my TV is indeed connected to my network (Philips smart TV)...could it be...?"...
I WAS RIGHT. If I turn on the android box NOT connected to TV, router is OK...as soon as I connect the HDMI cable, boom, it all goes to **** again.
Remember, android box's wifi and Bluetooth are always OFF.
solution?
Check HDMI settings on box and TV.
I don't have a big- or smart enough TV...
But if the box can control the TV over HDMI, or the other way around, you might get troubles if something is not working 100%.
I doubt the cable itself will be the problem as these are usally shielded and working in a totally different frequency range but if you have a spare cable try it too.
Friend of mine has similar problem with his noname 60" tv when he uses the tablet for Netflix.
For some reason we still can't figure out TV and tablet try to sync the Wifi - for a lack of explaining it better.
No matter what the TV is set to, once Netflix is started to stream on the TV a different protocol is used and no Wifi works anymore.
The router though does not turn into a xmas tree...
If you can set all to basic HDMI, no CEC or automaic stuff like switching the TV on when the box gives signal.
Also double check that all your devices use assigned and unique IP addresses - only too often DHCP is a culprit by giving out addresses already used by other devices in your network.
Edit:
Bit old but just one of the many websites that point to problems on Phillips TV's.
https://threatpost.com/wifi-bug-plagues-philips-internet-enabled-tvs-2/105134/
Wifi seems only to work properly if the router is not invisible and other WiFi problems are not fixed for years by the manufacturer.
TV might be smart, Phillips certainly is not LOL
OK, tried other milions of combinations and finally I found the "problem" even if its even more absurd.
First of all, I have to say also my PC desktop (not even turned on lol!) is connected to my TV. That's it: if those 2 (android box and PC) are connected to tv by HDMI, if I turn on the android box, my router goes Christmas. So what I did:
- If it's an IP address problem (trough HDMI?!?!), I tried to just disconnect the Ethernet cable in the back of the PC: still Christmas!
- so I tried to COMPLETELY turning off the PC on the back, with the master power button: still Christmas! WHAT THE HELL?!?! IMPOSSIBLE!
- At this point I just tried to keep the HDMI cable plugged to nothing. Literally just one end to the TV and the other end disconnected from the PC.
FIX IT! LOOOOOOL
SERIOUSLY? ONE DAMN HDMI CABLE?
By the way, I never had any problem with THAT cable, I don't remember where I bought it, but I've been playing my games on computer trough my TV for years...never a problem. By the way, is a mini HDMI - HDMI cable, knowing me, a cheap one from eBay...at the moment I do have other HDMI - HDMI cables, but no other mini HDMI, this is the only one I ever got. Tomorrow I'm gonna buy another one, but in the meantime...what the hell is going on? Lol
Well, at least you found the source of the problem....
Main question: The Chromebook is definitely recognizing the dongle as an internet device because an "Ethernet" option becomes available in the Network settings as soon as I plug in the USB, and when I take it out it disappears. It seems that the Chromebook is only having a problem configuring the proper settings, but if I know which settings to change seems like it should be able to work. [Inspiron Chromebook 11I 3000 (3181)]
***
Additional details: When I connect the dongle an "Ethernet" option comes up with many options available that I'm not familiar with. I called Sprint but they are not familiar with this. I did see the article about PPP authentication but unsure how to proceed.
This is what happens when I connect the dongle to the Chromebook with screenshots. A "Ethernet" option comes up: URL removed
Then if I click the "Configure" box option as seen here: URL removed, this pop-up opens: URL removed
Depending which EAP method I choose as seen here: URL removed, the following options are available: URL removed.
I did see that OTG cables are able to connect USB dongles to smartphones but the Chromebook doesn't have the mini usb ports. Perhaps there's a way to use an OTG cable with a Chromebook?
Another thing to consider here: URL removed.
If I switch off "Configure IP address automatically", the status then said "Connected" and it was green, it has some IP address info, but still was not able to connect to the internet.
Came across a "PPP authentication" article from Google, URL removed is anyone familiar with this?