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It seems my power adaptor has died..
I have been using it daily with no problem, and charged it over night last night.
I got a new stand today and moved the power supply to a new location, shifting the transformer with the adaptor still plugged in.
From that point on, no charging...
the cable is good cos it still shows up on the PC, although I guess it could be partially broken.
I have tried leaving the power adaptor unplugged for an hour or so, but no luck.
Anyone else have suggestions?
Is it possible that you bent a pin in the slot on the pad that you plug the charger into? Alternatively, you could take apart and reseat the 2 pieces
of the charger itself.
Pins in the pad seem fine, same on the charger.
I just turned it off to see if I could get it to charge from a USB hub on my PC, but it seems not.
This points to the cable being at fault, but with no replacements available I am still stuck with a discharging tablet.
Very Frustrating... I guess I will be Calling Asus support on Monday.
Its a shame Comet is out of stock locally, or I would walk into store for an exchange
bbilko said:
Pins in the pad seem fine, same on the charger.
I just turned it off to see if I could get it to charge from a USB hub on my PC, but it seems not.
This points to the cable being at fault, but with no replacements available I am still stuck with a discharging tablet.
Very Frustrating... I guess I will be Calling Asus support on Monday.
Its a shame Comet is out of stock locally, or I would walk into store for an exchange
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Click to collapse
charging thru a PC usb hub is slow...the ac adapter is rated at 15v 1.2a...and a PC hub is only 5v .5a i think...
Anyone know what the adapters for the other tablets are rated at?
skchan2 said:
charging thru a PC usb hub is slow...the ac adapter is rated at 15v 1.2a...and a PC hub is only 5v .5a i think...
Anyone know what the adapters for the other tablets are rated at?
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Click to collapse
I realise its slow, but I would expect SOMETHING after leaving the TF plugged in for almost an hour turned off!
This might sound ridiculous but unplug the usb cable from the power brick, unplug the power brick from the wall, set them aside....then wait a while (20+ minutes), then come back to it and try to plug it back in.
I had this same exact problem but I did the steps I told you and it began charging again. I'm not sure how or why though.
b1ackplague said:
This might sound ridiculous but unplug the usb cable from the power brick, unplug the power brick from the wall, set them aside....then wait a while (20+ minutes), then come back to it and try to plug it back in.
I had this same exact problem but I did the steps I told you and it began charging again. I'm not sure how or why though.
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Click to collapse
I left it for a while, but I shall try again.
EDIT: On second thoughts, no this isn't the case.
Plugging in the PSU normally turns the tablet on, and currently it isnt doing that.
Bum.
What is your battery percentage at? Anything above 90, and it won't charge until it drops below. Kind of a built in failsafe.
dictionary said:
What is your battery percentage at? Anything above 90, and it won't charge until it drops below. Kind of a built in failsafe.
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Click to collapse
Ah yes, it is above 90%, but I am sure it would show the charging icon?
I can only hope this is a false alarm, I will be less annoyed then..
Nope, won't show the charging icon. What I've done, if you want to ease the paranoia, lol, is hold the power button down and keep holding until the device shuts off completely. (do this with the plug disconnected) .. Now, plug the charger back in to the device. The device should power on, and you should boot up to a charging icon.
If it doesn't start up, then yeah, you may have a faulty charger. Let me know how it goes.
dictionary said:
Nope, won't show the charging icon. What I've done, if you want to ease the paranoia, lol, is hold the power button down and keep holding until the device shuts off completely. (do this with the plug disconnected) .. Now, plug the charger back in to the device. The device should power on, and you should boot up to a charging icon.
If it doesn't start up, then yeah, you may have a faulty charger. Let me know how it goes.
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Click to collapse
Worth a try, but no, nothing...
Then just let it run down passed 90% (like 88-89%) and see if it charges. If not, then yeah, sorry.
dictionary said:
Then just let it run down passed 90% (like 88-89%) and see if it charges. If not, then yeah, sorry.
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Click to collapse
No it does seem to be the PSU, I have used my Desire charger to charge the TF overnight, and got it back to 100%
Looks like I will be calling Asus on Monday
dictionary said:
What is your battery percentage at? Anything above 90, and it won't charge until it drops below. Kind of a built in failsafe.
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Click to collapse
It does on mine.
Little tip for you all... don't leave it charging overnight. It may be a bit late advice for some, but for others it might help them ending up with a useless power adapter. Unplug it when it gets to 100%. Get an app that alerts you with a sound, signaling when the battery is full. Battery monitor widget does this. Also unplug it soon after its done charging. This is assuming you don't care about battery life of course.
If you DO care about it then charging it up to 100% all the time isn't a good way to keep your battery healthy in the first place. Loads of guides on the web for Lithium Ion battery care.
There's obviously a problem with the adapter design, due to the amount of threads talking about this very issue, when people leave them charging all night. Maybe they are overheating, or some other reason. Prevention is better than cure.
stuntdouble said:
It does on mine.
Little tip for you all... don't leave it charging overnight. It may be a bit late advice for some, but for others it might help them ending up with a useless power adapter. Unplug it when it gets to 100%. Get an app that alerts you with a sound, signaling when the battery is full. Battery monitor widget does this. Also unplug it soon after its done charging. This is assuming you don't care about battery life of course.
If you DO care about it then charging it up to 100% all the time isn't a good way to keep your battery healthy in the first place. Loads of guides on the web for Lithium Ion battery care.
There's obviously a problem with the adapter design, due to the amount of threads talking about this very issue, when people leave them charging all night. Maybe they are overheating, or some other reason. Prevention is better than cure.
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Click to collapse
Over heating might well be the issue, I am getting that sweet smell of cooked circuit board from the PSU.
Not meaning it to charge over night will be annoying, I like things ready to go come the AM
bbilko said:
Over heating might well be the issue, I am getting that sweet smell of cooked circuit board from the PSU.
Not meaning it to charge over night will be annoying, I like things ready to go come the AM
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Click to collapse
Yeah I agree it shouldnt happen. Just saying I think it is. Pretty sure there are guidelines and safety features that are applied to all power supplies to make them safe for use in the home, at least there are in the EU, and it seems these ones are in violation of those guidelines, even though they have the CE approved label. If you are smelling something burning/melting its obviously faulty and needs to be replaced.
Well I tried comet for the warrenty and was directed to the asus support line, which is closed today.
How dull.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using XDA Premium App
bbilko said:
No it does seem to be the PSU, I have used my Desire charger to charge the TF overnight, and got it back to 100%
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is using the Desire charger just as slow at using a normal (5V) USB hub?
I'm no engineer but aren't there safeguards built into a charger/battery that is operating normally? ie: put TF on charger overnight, battery draws power till full then stops charging?
I use my TF all day, at night it goes on the charger, at no time does my charger get "hot" to the touch.
Information of PSU model with a known fault here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1081435
I am having an issue similar to another user.There is a question mark in my battery indicator and the only way it turns on is when I have it plugged in. The other user opened up his G tablet and unplugged the power supply then plugged it back in. Can somebody let me know exactly where they cord I have to unplug is? Thanks.
I know there is a breakdown of the hardware here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=842354
But I've got it open and I just need someone to tell me exactly what I need to unplug.
Did you ever figure this out? I'm assuming it's the jack with multi-colored wires coming out of the battery, but unplugging/plugging this back up didn't fix my problem.
is is the multicolored wire that was talked about. I have never heard of this fixing this problem though. What I would try is to completely drain your battery. Then charge it fully all the way till the light turns green. Then open up CWM and go into the advanced settings. Click on reset battery status or something to that extent. Make sure the tablet is unplugged. Hopefully it will fix your battery stats.
I dunno about Dirty Bird, but mine won't run without being plugged into the charger. So there is no way to discharge the battery.
When I plug the charger into the G-tablet, the LED which is supposed to show green or red doesn't light up at all.
I am really disgusted about this - especially now that I've opened the case. Grrr.
But, thanks for trying to help anyway.
this is the power supply form the battery.
Thank you. I had the right thing.
I am now reading over some threads about the power connector - I reckon it's possible that it is disconnected, although if the tablet is getting power through it, it seems to me that the battery should be getting power for recharging as well. But I am certainly no expert!
Edit: Checked the connector and it seems to be okay, firmly connected to the board and the solder looks okay to me. :/
Yesterday I let my phone die (low battery > powering down) and it stayed dead for 30 or so minutes. I plugged it into my wall charger and nothing happened. It didn't boot up, and there was no LED light.
I plugged it into USB and got a WHITE light, but it didn't charge. Even if I remove the battery I still get the white light when it's on USB.
I tried leaving my phone on the wall charger overnight, nothing happened.
I left it on USB for 4 hours, still nothing happened.
To sum it up:
Plug it into wall charger: Nothing happens, no LED
Plug it into wall charger with battery in: White LED
Plug it into wall charger with battery out: White LED
Nothing will charge it. I tried 2 USB cables and 3 wall chargers. I know they all work because I also used them to charge my replacement phone.
Returning to Sprint is NOT an option (I live in Canada)
What can I do to fix this?? The phone is less than 2 months old
MooseV2 said:
Yesterday I let my phone die (low battery > powering down) and it stayed dead for 30 or so minutes. I plugged it into my wall charger and nothing happened. It didn't boot up, and there was no LED light.
I plugged it into USB and got a WHITE light, but it didn't charge. Even if I remove the battery I still get the white light when it's on USB.
I tried leaving my phone on the wall charger overnight, nothing happened.
I left it on USB for 4 hours, still nothing happened.
To sum it up:
Plug it into wall charger: Nothing happens, no LED
Plug it into wall charger with battery in: White LED
Plug it into wall charger with battery out: White LED
Nothing will charge it. I tried 2 USB cables and 3 wall chargers. I know they all work because I also used them to charge my replacement phone.
Returning to Sprint is NOT an option (I live in Canada)
What can I do to fix this?? The phone is less than 2 months old
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your battery has been drained out completely.so you will need to boost up your battery.either connect your battery to a compatible battery charger or do following step
take one of your usb cable and cut it. you will get four wires. you will need red wire and black wire. Take out the photon's battery and connect the red wire to (+)positive terminal and black wire to (-)negative terminal of the battery as indicated on the battery.now connect it to your wall charger and let it charge for 15-20 min and after charging insert the battery in your photon and charge like normal.
Huge thanks! Worked great, my Photon is back up and running! I stripped the cable I had from an old audio player and connected it like you said (the (+) and (-) are the outermost terminals).
I'm going to invest in a standalone wall charger for the battery now, as well as tell Tasker to turn off my phone at a reasonable 10% battery so it doesn't completely die.
Thanks again for the help!
deepak251146 said:
Your battery has been drained out completely.so you will need to boost up your battery.either connect your battery to a compatible battery charger or do following step
take one of your usb cable and cut it. you will get four wires. you will need red wire and black wire. Take out the photon's battery and connect the red wire to (+)positive terminal and black wire to (-)negative terminal of the battery as indicated on the battery.now connect it to your wall charger and let it charge for 15-20 min and after charging insert the battery in your photon and charge like normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks man... your post has been real help for my photon...
k4trozz said:
thanks man... your post has been real help for my photon...
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Click to collapse
Proud that it helped..
But remember not to overcharge your battery with this method this is only for boosting the battery. don't charge for more than 15-20 min.
having a very similar problem as op but...
Hey wuddup fellas,
I'm a long time lurker, first time poster. Well, never really had to until now. Anyways, Im having a VERY similar problem as the OP but with the difference that my white LED only comes on for a short amount of time when connected via usb, maybe a couple mins max. Not to mention, for some reason, the white LED only comes on when connected to a specific usb port... I got 3 on my laptop (1 on left, 2 on right) and it only comes on when attached to the 1 on the left.
Lead up to failure: I was on texting when the 5% low battery pop up showed itself. I usually get 10mins before it dies so I didnt sweat it. Then, a few mins later it died. Ok, np, I'll just connect the charger wait a sec and we'll be good to go... Guess again, when I plugged in the charger, the charging indicator didnt come on, which I thought weird. Maybe its super dead, I'll just wait a few mins and it should be able to turn on... Nope, nada. So, I pop in the extra battery I got... Same thing happens to that one! Now I'm at a loss.
I read a few forum posts around the interwebs that sound along the same lines of whats going on with my phone. This post turns out to be the closest, so I try and jump start my batteries... Again, nada. Another post says I need to charge the battery out of the phone. So, I Amazon a standalone charger for the batteries. Throw one on the new charger, battery is completely dead, takes a few hours for it to charge. Throw the newly charged battery in the phone... nothing. Charge and throw the 2nd one in... Again, NOTHING!
Now the white led wont come on anymore. Which I guess it wouldnt need to cause the batteries are fully charged. But now I got no clue where to go... please if someone has any insight, i'd greatly appreciate it.
I can only charge from the car charger a very old laptop and by computer if a hdmi monitor is pluged in to the photon.
The laptop has a dead cmos battery so it sites at the hit F1.
Sent from my MB855 using xda premium
k4trozz said:
thanks man... your post has been real help for my photon...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same problem, charged with wire, but after that when i put battery back no usb connection and does not charge with AC adapter
deepak251146 said:
Your battery has been drained out completely.so you will need to boost up your battery.either connect your battery to a compatible battery charger or do following step
take one of your usb cable and cut it. you will get four wires. you will need red wire and black wire. Take out the photon's battery and connect the red wire to (+)positive terminal and black wire to (-)negative terminal of the battery as indicated on the battery.now connect it to your wall charger and let it charge for 15-20 min and after charging insert the battery in your photon and charge like normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to wake up this thread, but I'm having a similar problem and tried the wire method. When I plug into the computer I get the same white light, but I also get the white light when I plug into the wall. After trying with the wire, I plugged into the computer and pressed the power button. The light turned green, but the screen still didn't come on.
do you have spare battery from any other mobile.just take it and connect two wire + and - to the spare battery then other end to the photon phone pins using crocodile clips with same + and - symbol just double check before connecting don't connect reverse only connect to two pins then try to turn on and post your reply..
Motorola Photon Q, Dead. Fixed easy
I did as some suggested above, but without removing the battery. After removing the back, I just unscrewed the (+) and (-) screws on the battery, lifted up the battery tab, then clipped small alligator jumpers directly onto the battery tabs. I connected a power source of 4.35v until the battery read 3.77v, then removed the power. Then I started charging it with the standard wall charger and it powered up -- now working great.
So last night before I went to sleep, my NT had about 40% battery life left in it. I'm currently running the final alpha build of CM7. I've been experiencing really bad wifi loss issues and have kept the 'Never' option enabled under the wifi sleep policy (thinking that would help hold the connection).
I woke up to find the NT was turned off. Figured that was odd as I was only asleep for about 5hrs. I turned it on and then noticed it got into the OS and then died. I did see the battery icon was red briefly.
I then plugged it into the wall and it was boot looping. I saw the 'n' logo pop up, screen went black, 'n' logo, etc. etc.
After numerous attempts of holding down the power button for 20+ seconds, holding power+vol down for 10 seconds, plugging it with or without an sd card into the wall and computer, nothing is happening.
The computer does see something as I'm hearing the common connected/disconnected tone from the USB port. Now I'm noticing that plugged into the wall, the 'n' on the cable stays orange. It never turns green.
Did it go 'poof' in the night somehow?
[EDIT] Ok after leaving it plugged into the wall for about 15mins, it suddenly turned on but had a google framework FC error. Yeah, not sure what I should do at this point. It appears to be charging...
It's been noted by others that if the power level goes below 15% you mustn't turn the device off if you don't have the original charger nearby. If it dies you need to charge it with the original charger for a bit before it'll power back up.
I assume this means that you can't run it off the cable while you've got a completely dead battery. That kind of stinks but isn't too surprising, a lot of devices are like that.
So does that mean that if the device is <40% of battery I need to plug it in if I won't be around it for a while? Not sure I'm cool with that. Battery life was great all day yesterday but somehow it dropped 40% in under 5hrs while asleep.
I can't really say much as I haven't dealt with it personally. People were talking about it in a couple threads about the NT's charger and unique 12 pin cable.
Here's what I understand from what I've read:
You can run it until it's empty all you like. You'll just need to use the Nook's factory charger (or a compatible 2A charger with bridged D- and D+ pins) AND (this is the important one) the factory USB cable to charge it.
If you run it until it dies you have to charge it for a little while before it'll turn on again, BUT you have to use the original cord and charger. It won't charge off of a regular micro USB cable nor will it work if you're using a 2A or smaller charger that doesn't have the middle two pins bridges (the Apple UBS chargers won't work nor will your PC's USB ports, for example).
The NT will charge, albeit slowly, if connected with a third party cable or USB charger (without the data lines D- and D+ bridged), but not if the device's power has been depleted.
So I suspect something sucked up a lot of juice while you weren't using your NT. Not a huge deal, but definitely annoying. Plug it in for 15 minutes and you can get rolling again.... BUT only if you're using the original charger and cable. Lovely isn't it? It's not a huge problem but it is annoying. I wish you could at least use the device with a dead battery while plugged in.
I just mention the charger/stock cable thing because I'm sure someone will probably see this post in the future and may be having that particular problem resuscitating their NT.
Cool, yeah I don't specifically set out to run it down to zero but since the device is clean with minimal stuff running in the background, it's difficult to know when this might happen again. I assumed I'd wake up with like 20-25% battery left. The framework FC is also something I'm concerned about but maybe it was just a fluke.
Ah well, really do appreciate your input and I'll be sure to keep the stock cable/adapter on hand when I'm on the go.
Battery showed fully charged, I rebooted to do another CWM backup and then when it came back up it showed 84% charged. Lol. And this pic made me laugh even more. Time to get that lady from Poltergeist involved I think...
The Google Framework force close is typical of stock rooted NTs. I don't believe it ever did any harm to anything though. Just that it sometimes appears on reboot.
I'll ask one additional question as to not make another topic since it's related.
Opinions on battery calibration with the NT? That was one of the reasons I didn't charge it last night as I wanted to fully run it down and then fully charge it back up. Does the NT require this with a new rom install? That pic above shows the battery gauge clearly wasn't correct initially.
Your battery is draining overnight because wifi is running the whole time (as you stated in your first post).
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
ckevinwelch said:
Your battery is draining overnight because wifi is running the whole time (as you stated in your first post).
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I obviously thought of at first but it didn't drain nearly as much when I was using it throughout the day. The only thing I can think of is maybe the fuel gauge itself was wrong from the start, which refers back to my calibration question.
My GS2 has the sleep policy set to 'Never' as well and only loses maybe 7-8% after being asleep for around 7-8hrs and it certainly uses more juice in sleep due to the cell communication, etc.
Hi There, Does anyone know if it's possible to use the Galaxy S2 without a battery, or trick it into thinking it does have one and just run off power?
My phone works, but kills a battery in about 30 minutes. There's one resistor in there that gets super hot after being water damaged, but only with a battery in.
Wouldn't know where to buy a new resistor, so wouldn't mind leaving it permanently docked and run my audio for the house through it if I can somehow run it without a battery
.
I think it can run without battery but can't boot without battery
Sent from my sgs2 running cm9 using xda app
Makrilli said:
I think it can run without battery but can't boot without battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just tried that on another S2 I have and it didn't work
Sorry to revive a old thread, but I would also like to know if there is a way to trick the phone into booting from a power supply instead of a battery. I am attempting to hardwire an old S2 into an imbedded in car media player blah blah blah.....long story short I have issues using the battery.
If I leave the phone plugged into a constant powered USB when the car is off and the phone is sitting dormant it over charges, the battery gets super hot, I get the overcharge/overheat warning etc. If I disconnect it, then I have two issues, first it loses charge as it is in use and pulling it when I park means having to bring it inside and top it off etc. The second problem is....it kind of defeats the purpose of an "embedded system".
I have the software set up perfectly and I love the way it all works. My only current hitch is the battery issue. If I can bypass it I know I can run a off delay relay, so that when the car is shut off the USB cord stays "hot" for say 1 hour then shuts off thus removing power. This option seems tedious and the parts more expensive then a simple power supply replacement. Unfortunately I do not know the software side.
I have been able to get the phone to boot without a battery, however as soon as it is done booting I get the "battery low, plug in" warning, then a few seconds later the phone shuts off........Is there a way to keep the phone from shutting down at that point, or get it to ignore the fact the "battery" is at 0%?
Edit: When I say I can get it to boot without a battery, I am wiring a power supply directly to the two pins that the battery + and - would be touching.
techoverload said:
Sorry to revive a old thread, but I would also like to know if there is a way to trick the phone into booting from a power supply instead of a battery. I am attempting to hardwire an old S2 into an imbedded in car media player blah blah blah.....long story short I have issues using the battery.
If I leave the phone plugged into a constant powered USB when the car is off and the phone is sitting dormant it over charges, the battery gets super hot, I get the overcharge/overheat warning etc. If I disconnect it, then I have two issues, first it loses charge as it is in use and pulling it when I park means having to bring it inside and top it off etc. The second problem is....it kind of defeats the purpose of an "embedded system".
I have the software set up perfectly and I love the way it all works. My only current hitch is the battery issue. If I can bypass it I know I can run a off delay relay, so that when the car is shut off the USB cord stays "hot" for say 1 hour then shuts off thus removing power. This option seems tedious and the parts more expensive then a simple power supply replacement. Unfortunately I do not know the software side.
I have been able to get the phone to boot without a battery, however as soon as it is done booting I get the "battery low, plug in" warning, then a few seconds later the phone shuts off........Is there a way to keep the phone from shutting down at that point, or get it to ignore the fact the "battery" is at 0%?
Edit: When I say I can get it to boot without a battery, I am wiring a power supply directly to the two pins that the battery + and - would be touching.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
bump
any solutions to this yet?
the phone has a circuit that controls power and charge level by communicating with the battery so it will always know that the battery is removed because the battery feedback circuit will not be present.
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but i have a solution that may help others out.
I have found a way to power the Galaxy S2 GT-I9100T from an external power supply ( i have also tested on S3 GT-I9300 and S5 SM-G900I).
My first step was to create a dummy battery out of perspex, you could use any non conductive material.
Make sure you include the alignment notches and keep it as close to the size of the original battery so it is a snug fit and wont accidentally fall out.
When you know the perspex fits you can start fitting the contact terminals, make sure you have the polarity correct and that they line up with the contact terminals of the original battery and the spring terminals in the phone.
Once you have the terminals fitted you can then look at powering up your phone, i used a LM2596 based DC-DC converter that i had laying around.
If you are using a variable DC-DC converter like i did make sure you adjust the output of the power supply BEFORE connecting to your phone to prevent you destroying your device.
My DC-DC converter is set at 3.88 Volts, this value seems to trick the phone into thinking it has a battery with greater than 40% charge that way you don't get the annoying low battery alerts.
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How about taking your admittedly innovative idea one stage further.......
If you have an old battery laying around, why not (very carefully) remove the top part of it for use with your perspex replacement....this top section contains the overcharge protection circuit which would help to provide added protection to the device....it also has the benefits of the facts that the battery connection points are already in place and correctly aligned (it also has those alignment notches at either end).....imo, an improvement on an already good idea....
I got problem with my SGS 2 - after long on-shelf time battery drained to absoltely zero. My voltometer showed 0 on every connector. I was unable to charge or boot my phone (24h+ on charger, no signs of life). Dead, bricked, gone... Battery was relatively new (some months) so I didn't want to buy another one. Then I read Spud2233's post... and tried it .Well, kind of variation. I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila! After 2 or 3 retries my phone booted in and started to charge. I disconected additional power cable, phone is loading as usual. Battery revived!
Thanks for inspiration, Spud2233!
szydas said:
I got problem with my SGS 2 - after long on-shelf time battery drained to absoltely zero. My voltometer showed 0 on every connector. I was unable to charge or boot my phone (24h+ on charger, no signs of life). Dead, bricked, gone... Battery was relatively new (some months) so I didn't want to buy another one. Then I read Spud2233's post... and tried it .Well, kind of variation. I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila! After 2 or 3 retries my phone booted in and started to charge. I disconected additional power cable, phone is loading as usual. Battery revived!
Thanks for inspiration, Spud2233!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just registered to say thanks for this tip!
I too have had SII batteries go dead after too long, and the SII seems to be unable to power up without a voltage across the battery terminals.
I used a small variable power supply set to about 3.5 V. I trimmed some thin hookup wire until only a few strands were left and 'pinched' them between the battery terminals and the phone battery contacts. Then with a charger plugged in to the phone I was able to 'trick' the phone into turning on. Once booted the battery charged fine.
Note I think this should be done quickly as the phone and power supply will fight each other for as long as the voltage is placed on the contact, so I pulled the PS wires out (keeping the battery in) as soon as the phone was booted up.
szydas said:
I got problem with my SGS 2 - after long on-shelf time battery drained to absoltely zero. My voltometer showed 0 on every connector. I was unable to charge or boot my phone (24h+ on charger, no signs of life). Dead, bricked, gone... Battery was relatively new (some months) so I didn't want to buy another one. Then I read Spud2233's post... and tried it .Well, kind of variation. I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila! After 2 or 3 retries my phone booted in and started to charge. I disconected additional power cable, phone is loading as usual. Battery revived!
Thanks for inspiration, Spud2233!
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Thank you so much for the solution to my problem! I have purchased TWO batteries already and they both stopped working after drained to zero. I was blaming a charger or a quality of the battery. I found other posts suggesting to remove a capacitor but it wasn't broken...
Thanks to you, I have just booted my phone, pulled out extra power after couple minutes and it charging on its own now! (well 5% as I speak).
fpN3eqU said:
Just registered to say thanks for this tip!
I too have had SII batteries go dead after too long, and the SII seems to be unable to power up without a voltage across the battery terminals.
I used a small variable power supply set to about 3.5 V. I trimmed some thin hookup wire until only a few strands were left and 'pinched' them between the battery terminals and the phone battery contacts. Then with a charger plugged in to the phone I was able to 'trick' the phone into turning on. Once booted the battery charged fine.
Note I think this should be done quickly as the phone and power supply will fight each other for as long as the voltage is placed on the contact, so I pulled the PS wires out (keeping the battery in) as soon as the phone was booted up.
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szydas said:
I got problem with my SGS 2 - after long on-shelf time battery drained to absoltely zero. My voltometer showed 0 on every connector. I was unable to charge or boot my phone (24h+ on charger, no signs of life). Dead, bricked, gone... Battery was relatively new (some months) so I didn't want to buy another one. Then I read Spud2233's post... and tried it .Well, kind of variation. I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila! After 2 or 3 retries my phone booted in and started to charge. I disconected additional power cable, phone is loading as usual. Battery revived!
Thanks for inspiration, Spud2233!
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I am in the same situation with SII batteries go dead after too long.
I do not understand this part
''I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila!''
or this part
'' I trimmed some thin hookup wire until only a few strands were left and 'pinched' them between the battery terminals and the phone battery contacts. Then with a charger plugged in to the phone I was able to 'trick' the phone into turning on.''
how is this different than inserting the battery in the phone and then connecting the usb power supply?
blue whale said:
how is this different than inserting the battery in the phone and then connecting the usb power supply?
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The phone won't charge the battery if it doesn't detect (sufficient) voltage. You can "jump start" the charging process by tricking it with a fixed voltage across the terminals.
so I take my dead battery, then
-take a usb charger+usb cable
-strip the usb cable to get two strands
-put one strand of the usb cable on the + of the battery
-put one strand of the usb cable on the - of the battery
=>the battery is charging
[or easier, I take battery like this,
put one strand of an electric cable on the +, connect this cable to the + of the phone battery, then put one strand of the electric cable on the - of the battery and the - of the phone battery
then I put the battey in the phone with usb power supply IN and the phone boots ???
I wouldn't use a USB cable, 5 V is probably too high.
blue whale said:
or easier, I take battery like this, put one strand of an electric cable on the +, connect this cable to the + of the phone battery, then put one strand of the electric cable on the - of the battery and the - of the phone battery then I put the battey in the phone with usb power supply IN and the phone boots ???
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Yep, that's exactly what I did (except I used a 3.5 V power supply).
Once the phone has begun booting you should probably disconnect the "jump start" battery as quickly as possible or it'll fight the charging circuit.
fpN3eqU said:
I wouldn't use a USB cable, 5 V is probably too high.
Yep, that's exactly what I did (except I used a 3.5 V power supply).
Once the phone has begun booting you should probably disconnect the "jump start" battery as quickly as possible or it'll fight the charging circuit.
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but you agree that connecting the phone battery the charged green battery is like charging the phone battery [at least a bit]?
then I would just use the phone battery normally, by inserting it into the phone and boot the phone and finish to charge the phone battery.
blue whale said:
but you agree that connecting the phone battery the charged green battery is like charging the phone battery [at least a bit]?
then I would just use the phone battery normally, by inserting it into the phone and boot the phone and finish to charge the phone battery.
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Not really, the SII battery will still be dead after a few seconds "charging". Getting the voltage across the phone battery terminals tricks the phone that there's a charged battery present so it will boot and continue charging it. Otherwise it gets stuck in something like a boot loop looking for the battery (mine did anyway).
If you could charge it separately from the phone then obviously you'd just do that.
Thank you for all your tips. I tried similar stuff, but I guess the voltage was just not right.
So I asked around to get a spare battery, which which I powered on the phone. It worked like charm.
I change the battery while the phone was running and tada! my phone was loading the "out of order" battery just fine.
Pretty much the same trick you guys did, but with less soldering and more quick magic happening ^^
regsnerven said:
Thank you for all your tips. I tried similar stuff, but I guess the voltage was just not right.
So I asked around to get a spare battery, which which I powered on the phone. It worked like charm.
I change the battery while the phone was running and tada! my phone was loading the "out of order" battery just fine.
Pretty much the same trick you guys did, but with less soldering and more quick magic happening ^^
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I did just that to my s2 and his dead battery.
I was scared to go with ONLY a 18650 battery to charge the dead battery (no phone or usb charger involved) : I did not know if I should connect pole+ of the 18650 with pole + of dead battery (and pole - of 18650 with pole - of dead battery) which is the parallel scheme or the opposite, to go with the ''series'' scheme
blue whale said:
I was scared to go with ONLY a 18650 battery to charge the dead battery (no phone or usb charger involved) : I did not know if I should connect pole+ of the 18650 with pole + of dead battery (and pole - of 18650 with pole - of dead battery) which is the parallel scheme or the opposite, to go with the ''series'' scheme
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You were right to be scared. You should not do that. The dead battery might draw too much current. That could be dangerous. Read a bit about how charging of Li-Ion batteries works: first you charge with constant current (CC), which depends on the battery's design, once it reaches the correct voltage (4.2 V for a single cell), it should go into constant voltage mode, and then you have to know at what time or remaining current you shut the charger off. A good rule of thumb is to wait till the current drops to 10% of the charging current. E.g. if you were charging the battery with 1 A***, you should turn off the charger when it's down to 100 mA.
***1 A is just an example that would work for most modern phone batteries. However, this can be different! Ideally it's written on the battery.
Also, it's very well possible that in newer phones the battery will only output voltage if the charging circuit inside the phone allows it to. At least that's the case in notebooks for many years, and I don't see why it should be very different for phones.