I have now tried two keyboard docks with my tf300 and both of them are no go.
The dock doesn't show as connected any where ; neither the battery nor the keyboard / track pad.
I'm going to try a new tablet even to see if that's it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using xda premium
does the tablet fit properly?
you sure you aren't using the TFP dock?
It seems to click in properly, I've tried reseating the dock plenty of times
And the box for the dock said tf 300 on it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using xda premium
yep, it's the tablet
I tried a factory reset for good measure, still nothing.
With a new tablet from the store, the dock works right off the bat.
So, yeah pretty squirrely, the original tablet was fine otherwise, usb sync and charging through the dock connector were fine, but the keyboard dock didn't work at all. Glad i didnt wait too long before getting the dock, would've been even more hassle to find out later, outside of return window.
Dock Not Working
I had a similar issue with my TF300, however, I tried using the dock for the Prime TF201 and it works like a dream...Not sure why it wouldn't work with it's own dock but I'm running mine with a prime dock now flawlessly, sure the colors don't match right but who cares...
The tf300 works with the prime's dock???
Spark1223 said:
The tf300 works with the prime's dock???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it does but to be safe I would not recommend using it since the Primes dock (hinge/docking area) is smaller than the 300 and can cause stress on the screen causing it to crack in the future.
I'll let you know if I experience any issues but it seems to fit like a glove, I don't have to push it in, it slides in smoothly.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
Also the dimensions and weights are identical on the Asus site.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
same with me...keyboard not working
Hey so what did you ended up doing with your dock? What happens if its the keyboard? Would asus try to fix it or do you just have to live with it. Ibought the dock from amazon but the tablet i bought brwnd new/sealed from someone else. The tablet recognizes the dock but the dock itself doesnt do didly squat. Very frustratig. Did you try to return the tablet or did you try another dock?
beddess said:
I tried a factory reset for good measure, still nothing.
With a new tablet from the store, the dock works right off the bat.
So, yeah pretty squirrely, the original tablet was fine otherwise, usb sync and charging through the dock connector were fine, but the keyboard dock didn't work at all. Glad i didnt wait too long before getting the dock, would've been even more hassle to find out later, outside of return window.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wound up returning the tablet, I'm guessing it would've been covered by the warranty though.
Sent from my XT862 using Tapatalk 2
A fix for keyboard not working
If you have a situation where the keyboard is out of warranty, here is the fix that worked for me.
I had the same issues...tablet recognized dock connected, track pad worked, but none of the keys worked.
I took the 4 rubber feet off the bottom and undid the 4 screws. I then started with the USB port and gently pried the case apart at the seam. Once started, I just slid the screwdriver down the gap and gave a slight twist to release the lid. Note, this will only provide a gap that you can pry back just over an inch near the docking edge. There were 2 other visible screws on the bottom front that I could not unscrew, but they did not interfere with the repair.
The reason I found that the keyboard was not working was that the locking mechanism for the middle 1 inch ribbon cable had come undone. The cable was pushed in, but without the locking mechanism, all the contacts were not making contact. All I did was push the ribbon all the way into the connector and push the dark grey connector down to lock the ribbon cable in place.
When I connected the tablet all the keys worked fine.
kbaggs said:
If you have a situation where the keyboard is out of warranty, here is the fix that worked for me.
I had the same issues...tablet recognized dock connected, track pad worked, but none of the keys worked.
I took the 4 rubber feet off the bottom and undid the 4 screws. I then started with the USB port and gently pried the case apart at the seam. Once started, I just slid the screwdriver down the gap and gave a slight twist to release the lid. Note, this will only provide a gap that you can pry back just over an inch near the docking edge. There were 2 other visible screws on the bottom front that I could not unscrew, but they did not interfere with the repair.
The reason I found that the keyboard was not working was that the locking mechanism for the middle 1 inch ribbon cable had come undone. The cable was pushed in, but without the locking mechanism, all the contacts were not making contact. All I did was push the ribbon all the way into the connector and push the dark grey connector down to lock the ribbon cable in place.
When I connected the tablet all the keys worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's great. I'll try it with mine tomorrow.
kbaggs said:
If you have a situation where the keyboard is out of warranty, here is the fix that worked for me.
I had the same issues...tablet recognized dock connected, track pad worked, but none of the keys worked.
...
When I connected the tablet all the keys worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I partially opened the keyboard exactly as you explained (no need to unscrew the 2 little star shaped screws), and found the kb connector completely unplugged.
Easy to fix, 10min including finding the right tools and avoiding damage to the plastic case.
Thank you :good: !
kbaggs said:
If you have a situation where the keyboard is out of warranty, here is the fix that worked for me.
I had the same issues...tablet recognized dock connected, track pad worked, but none of the keys worked.
I took the 4 rubber feet off the bottom and undid the 4 screws. I then started with the USB port and gently pried the case apart at the seam. Once started, I just slid the screwdriver down the gap and gave a slight twist to release the lid. Note, this will only provide a gap that you can pry back just over an inch near the docking edge. There were 2 other visible screws on the bottom front that I could not unscrew, but they did not interfere with the repair.
The reason I found that the keyboard was not working was that the locking mechanism for the middle 1 inch ribbon cable had come undone. The cable was pushed in, but without the locking mechanism, all the contacts were not making contact. All I did was push the ribbon all the way into the connector and push the dark grey connector down to lock the ribbon cable in place.
When I connected the tablet all the keys worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude you are awesome! Fixed my dock too
Asus transformer book T300 chi docking station not working
Asus transformer book t300 chi docking station not working
Many people have answered the question correctly but not explained properly
Firstly make sure the battery of the Docking Station and Laptop are fully charged
THIS IS A MULTIPLE STEP PROCESS
Put on Bluetooth on your laptop by going to Settings and Devices
All the steps to do this are explained here as far the buttons are concerned
asus.com/gr/support/FAQ/1011257
Basic Set Up - Step 1 to Step 3 in the link above
Follow as in the Link
Now you go to Step 4
Click on Pair
You will have either the option of automatically getting a password in numbers from the laptop - Shown in link Step 5
or
You will get the option of choosing your own password in numbers - Shown in link Step 6
Remember you will either reach Step 5 or Step 6 (Not Both - Please don't ask me why)
1) Now if you reached Step 5 and whatever number you get (example here is 63467904)
Enter that in the Docking Station Carefully Correctly and Slowly - Press Enter
You will not be able to read what you type on the Docking Station (example here is 63467904). That is why do it correctly and right.
It will automatically take you to Step 7 and connect your Docking Station
2) Now if you reached Step 6 instead of Step 5 then you have to choose the number (example let us choose here 12345678)
I chose 8 digits because I noticed Asus had automatically generated an 8 digit code
Then enter 12345678 on the tablet keypad of your computer in the white box and click Next
You will see the signal showing "connecting"
Now go to your Docking Station and enter 12345678 in the Docking Station Carefully Correctly and Slowly - Press Enter
You will not be able to read what you type on the Docking Station (example here now is 12345678). That is why do it correctly and right.
It will automatically take you to Step 7 and connect your Docking Station
PLEASE REMEMBER FOR EITHER 1) OR 2) THE DOCKING STATION PAIRING BLUE LIGHT MUST BE FLASHING AND THE LAPTOP MUST BE IN PAIRING MODE. IF BLUE LIGHT STOPS FLASHING IT WILL NOT GET PAIRED
To check if your Docking Station works well I used this trick (in case you have doubts on its functioning)
a) Switch off your Tablet
b) Make sure Docking Station is fully charged
c) Go to your mobile phone
d) Put both the Docking Station and Mobile Phone on Bluetooth Scan Mode
e) If you find the Docking Station try to connect it. It will give you a pairing number (example here is 63467904 - not always this number)
This means your Docking Station is perfect
(Absolutely a stupid way with no proper explanation by Asus. I wasted 3 hours figuring it out. I am no Geek. I did this all by trial and error. Nothing is wrong with your Bluetooth device on the docking station under most circumstances. Just to help others who got stuck and frustrated like me)
KichiKrishKrishnan said:
Asus transformer book t300 chi docking station not working
Many people have answered the question correctly but not explained properly
Firstly make sure the battery of the Docking Station and Laptop are fully charged
THIS IS A MULTIPLE STEP PROCESS
Put on Bluetooth on your laptop by going to Settings and Devices
All the steps to do this are explained here as far the buttons are concerned
asus.com/gr/support/FAQ/1011257
Basic Set Up - Step 1 to Step 3 in the link above
Follow as in the Link
Now you go to Step 4
Click on Pair
You will have either the option of automatically getting a password in numbers from the laptop - Shown in link Step 5
or
You will get the option of choosing your own password in numbers - Shown in link Step 6
Remember you will either reach Step 5 or Step 6 (Not Both - Please don't ask me why)
1) Now if you reached Step 5 and whatever number you get (example here is 63467904)
Enter that in the Docking Station Carefully Correctly and Slowly - Press Enter
You will not be able to read what you type on the Docking Station (example here is 63467904). That is why do it correctly and right.
It will automatically take you to Step 7 and connect your Docking Station
2) Now if you reached Step 6 instead of Step 5 then you have to choose the number (example let us choose here 12345678)
I chose 8 digits because I noticed Asus had automatically generated an 8 digit code
Then enter 12345678 on the tablet keypad of your computer in the white box and click Next
You will see the signal showing "connecting"
Now go to your Docking Station and enter 12345678 in the Docking Station Carefully Correctly and Slowly - Press Enter
You will not be able to read what you type on the Docking Station (example here now is 12345678). That is why do it correctly and right.
It will automatically take you to Step 7 and connect your Docking Station
PLEASE REMEMBER FOR EITHER 1) OR 2) THE DOCKING STATION PAIRING BLUE LIGHT MUST BE FLASHING AND THE LAPTOP MUST BE IN PAIRING MODE. IF BLUE LIGHT STOPS FLASHING IT WILL NOT GET PAIRED
To check if your Docking Station works well I used this trick (in case you have doubts on its functioning)
a) Switch off your Tablet
b) Make sure Docking Station is fully charged
c) Go to your mobile phone
d) Put both the Docking Station and Mobile Phone on Bluetooth Scan Mode
e) If you find the Docking Station try to connect it. It will give you a pairing number (example here is 63467904 - not always this number)
This means your Docking Station is perfect
(Absolutely a stupid way with no proper explanation by Asus. I wasted 3 hours figuring it out. I am no Geek. I did this all by trial and error. Nothing is wrong with your Bluetooth device on the docking station under most circumstances. Just to help others who got stuck and frustrated like me)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My tablet would show the dock connected at first and then it would disconnect on me at random points and not reconnect unless I plugged power into it (and I tried two different docks too). It just ended up being too much trouble and I ditched the dock.
Related
When is Asus going to start selling OEM parts ? I need multiple sync cables etc.. I would personally tear mine apart and goto town with meter but with out a way to purchase a new one this seems like a dumb idea . I also am looking to make a cable that can attach to dock out, so that i can use it with transformer with out having it docked. Not that it maters but my reason for this is because i am making a custom install using the transformer as the head unit in my ford F-150, and i want to build a swing out keyboard out of center council (for when stationary or for passenger to use of course)
Any how my purpose of this is does anyone know any info on when replacement parts will be made available, or if they have released a pin out on the 40 pin anywhere so i might start building my own? I have tried reaching them on twitter but i have never received a response, on a side note has anyone got the transformer to show up and mount storage on a linux machine ?
I hate windows and so far other than adb push and pull, windows seems to be the only system that works with it
Frys in Arlington tx has the keyboards in stock and the charger brick and cables for forty bucks. They said they will have the USB cables that are six feet long soon too.
thanks ill have to give em a look
t0dbld said:
When is Asus going to start selling OEM parts ? I need multiple sync cables etc.. I would personally tear mine apart and goto town with meter but with out a way to purchase a new one this seems like a dumb idea . I also am looking to make a cable that can attach to dock out, so that i can use it with transformer with out having it docked. Not that it maters but my reason for this is because i am making a custom install using the transformer as the head unit in my ford F-150, and i want to build a swing out keyboard out of center council (for when stationary or for passenger to use of course)
Any how my purpose of this is does anyone know any info on when replacement parts will be made available, or if they have released a pin out on the 40 pin anywhere so i might start building my own? I have tried reaching them on twitter but i have never received a response, on a side note has anyone got the transformer to show up and mount storage on a linux machine ?
I hate windows and so far other than adb push and pull, windows seems to be the only system that works with it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want to probe the cables, tearing apart a USB 3.0 extension cable and exposing the wires will allow you to tap into the Cable connection
Only thing i could probe was voltage and amperage with my multimeter
I really wish Asus used PDMI connectors
thanks dan but i already know the voltage etc ... thats not what i am looking for (usb 3.0) wont help me at all
t0dbld said:
When is Asus going to start selling OEM parts ? I need multiple sync cables etc.. I would personally tear mine apart and goto town with meter but with out a way to purchase a new one this seems like a dumb idea . I also am looking to make a cable that can attach to dock out, so that i can use it with transformer with out having it docked. Not that it maters but my reason for this is because i am making a custom install using the transformer as the head unit in my ford F-150, and i want to build a swing out keyboard out of center council (for when stationary or for passenger to use of course)
Any how my purpose of this is does anyone know any info on when replacement parts will be made available, or if they have released a pin out on the 40 pin anywhere so i might start building my own? I have tried reaching them on twitter but i have never received a response, on a side note has anyone got the transformer to show up and mount storage on a linux machine ?
I hate windows and so far other than adb push and pull, windows seems to be the only system that works with it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
" I also am looking to make a cable that can attach to dock out"
Are you asking about being able to connect USB to the tablet? If so you need to wait for both the next version of honeycomb and the USB adapter from ASus
Does anyone have experience with this dock:
http://www.amazon.com/Hyperion-Stan...355001050&sr=8-1&keywords=hyperion+dock+one+x
The reviews claim that it does not bring up dock mode, but the most recent review from July says that its possible with a little modification (bolded).
"I have an HTC One X (AT&T version) and wanted a dock to allow me to use the phone as an alarm clock/bedside device.
The design for this charger is actually quite good, but the build quality leaves much to be desired, at least in my opinion. When I plugged in the dock to power and docked the phone, the charging light did not come on, and the phone kept switching between dock mode and normal mode every few seconds. Also the charging (actually power) light never came on. However, the phone charged just fine, and the dock was heavy enough to not have a risk of tipping over, and fit the phone perfectly.
After reading other reviews, I knew that the dock didn't actually put the phone into "dock mode", so I planned on modifying the device from the start and decided not to send it back because of it's flaws. Upon taking the dock apart I saw that it had a circuit board that looks like it was designed for several types of HTC phones, because of the many blank spaces for components. There was a 10k-ohm resistor which I assume was intended either for the LED power indicator, or putting the phone into dock mode (earlier HTC phones used a 10k-ohm resistor to indicate dock mode), but it's hard to tell since it didn't actually connect to anything. While that was concerning, even more so was the fact that the LED was wired to the wrong pad on the circuit board. When I connected it to the right pad, I found the blue LED was extremely bright, too bright for my intended bedside use. I wired a less-intense red LED (because red doesn't affect night vision) to a 100-ohm resistor connected to the +5v on the USB port. Wiring a 47k-ohm resistor between pins 4 and 5 of the USB port was sufficient to tell the phone to go into dock mode.
Overall, if you just want a dock to charge the phone, or want to put in a little soldering to make it into a decent dock, I can recommend this device. Otherwise I would wait until the higher quality docks come to market."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has this mod been tried by anyone? Will it work on any dock?
Sounds good and logical to me.....try it....I might to if I can get the dock ordered.... Y wouldn't it work?
Sent with my fast aZZ [email protected] Android.....hox+ is waiting rooted for none stock roms
Dock mode
if I look in the settings of my Telus HOX+ it has dock mode listed with choices that pop up when its docked. I do not have a dock to see what it does but do not all HOX+ have a dock setting? I was hoping it was more magnet activated like my Atrix was
Hello there. I am an early adopter of this device.
After all the disappointment with the wifi and gps capabilities and failing to utilize the tf201 as a light netbook replacement, I stowed it away somewhere and lost interest, as I didn't buy the thing to play angry birds. Now about two weeks ago I remembered the tablet and wanted to try amusing our cat with it (which amazingly works great, he is all about those cat video games now ) and got out the dock as well, since someone had apparently ported a few linux images to the tf201 more successfully then last time I read up on it.
The keyboard dock was pretty much an external battery it seemed. None of the keys would work whatsoever but the touchpad did. The battery was recognized and charged fine. I tried the sd-card slot and usb connector, both also working.
I have been searching the net for similar issues and found a lot of people whose docks were dead, with various symptoms. I tried a lot of things unsuccessfully and continued to use the dock as an external battery and for quick charging with the wall plug.
Well then yesterday I connected the dock again to charge the tablet a bit, and what do you know? the keyboard is working again. WTF? I have reconnected the tablet multiple times now, folded and unfolded the whole combo and it is still working today? Could it be a software problem? Is it multiple things causing this?
I decided to open a thread and gather information in one place, so that others might find it easier to troubleshoot this.
Following is a list of things that other's who have similar problems might try to fix/investigate. After that I will post some things that I have tried in order to troubleshoot my problems and please share what ideas you might have, as I am sure the problems with my keyboard dock will return eventually.
Here is what I was able to gather as potential root causes and possible fixes for dead keyboard docks:
1) The ingenious product design of the dock hinge makes it a premium dirt trap. Lots of bits and dust can get inside and will all the time, as the gap is wide open and there is convenient rubber on the sides with glue that dissolves and attracts crap that is basically uncleanable. But the connector is! So try cleaning the first. Sadly it is not easy to access but cotton swabs and a tooth brush with some cleaning alcohol will do it. The tablet side can be cleaned more easily but also isn't so problematic as a dust trap.
2) The flex cable inside the dock can become loose due to vibrations. This was a problem with the transformer generation before and they seem to have improved the design but I still read reports from people who had this happen. This is the easiest to fix out of all of these problems and if you have connection problems with your dock, make sure to check this. The dock is very easily opened with a phillips screw driver, a plastic prod (guitar pick, old credit card, cheap phone repair tools etc) and some patience. Be sure to not lift the two halves away from each other, as the cable connecting the top to bottom is very short and if you are not careful, you'll rip off the connector on the pcb. Check the flex cables and reseat them.
3) The connector between the tf201 and the dock is built very flimsily, but better then the first transformer series. The connector on the tablet side can lift off the pads it's soldered to due to flex and stress because it carries the tablets weight partially without a lot of support. The good news about this is, that if you have a decent rework station, this is potentially fixable. Opening the tablet is a hassle, you need a heatgun to soften the adhesive around the case (noone mentions this it seems) and slide the locking tabs in the recesses (where the tablet usually locks to the dock, left and right from the connector) to the open position. Then carefully pry the whole assembly open and get access to where the flex cable is connected to the dock/charge port. with a proper hot air rework station, that port can be reflown if the pins have indeed lifted from the pads on the little pcb. But this is also very finicky, as you will melt stuff in the process without shielding it from the heat (captone tape or maybe aluminum foil can do the trick).
4) Software? I only have theories on this but I think a lot of cases have some sort of software problem. What is known about how the dock functions?
- it contains a battery, which can be charged independently of the tablet. Charging this battery requires 15V and cannot be done with a common usb connection.
- there is a usb host connector, so there must be a controller for that inside the dock. it's not just wired through to the tablet, there is stuff happening here.
- there is an sdcard slot, so there must be some hardware responsible for powering and reading/writen to that as well.
- there has to be some sort of firmware, responsible for the low level things going on in the dock I am thinking, it has to do powermanagement for several internal devices.
so my conclusion from this information is, that maybe some of the problems could be caused there. how could this be debugged?
or:
- the custom rom could have a problem with the dock. The software side might be wonky for whatever reason. I am running a KatKiss 7.1.2 rom and AOSP is the only choice I can set as the hardware keyboard. Some people had success with hard reseting their tf201 or even a factory reset or reflash. A lot of people reported this did nothing for them.
TL;DR if your keyboard isn't working, your dock isn't charging, or some other feature on your dock seems dead suddenly, try the above things and please report. I am trying to collect all info on this to help people troubleshoot and investigate these issues.
- I have tried to hard reset the tf201 with dock attached and without. didn't help.
- I opened the dock and reseated the flex cables, but they looked fine in the first place. Also didn't help.
- I tried fiddling with the keyboard and language settings, also did nothing. Don't want to reflash/change roms just yet, I couldn't gather any cohesive info on wether people -had these sorts of issues due to a custom rom.
- I cleaned the connector on the dock and the tablet with isopropyl and got out lots of gunk but this also did not help.
now I was about to reopen the tablet (I was in there before to fix something on the case), but then it suddenly started working again. So I am pretty reluctant to just open the tablet to check at the connector pcb, since it is quite risky and I am glad I was able to get the thing back together so neatly, after I opened it the first time. I have a hot air rework station and a microscope to check and repair this, but now that I am thinking it might be a software issue after all, I really don't want to risk ruining the tablet. It's obviously not made for being repaired/maintained (thanks ASUS, it's not like it was extraordinarily expensive...).
Here's the issue I had..
https://www.androidpolice.com/2011/...-battery-drain-here-is-why-and-how-to-fix-it/
Having missed the window to have this repaired by Asus I just leave my keyboard in a drawer to keep papers from curling.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
HorthLithperer said:
Here's the issue I had..
https://www.androidpolice.com/2011/...-battery-drain-here-is-why-and-how-to-fix-it/
Having missed the window to have this repaired by Asus I just leave my keyboard in a drawer to keep papers from curling.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for that link. So that apparently just concerns people who have a dock that has it's battery draining, which I am luckily not one of. I also did the test described in the link, so I guess powermanagement is not affected by the firmware incompability in this regard.
Hello everyone,
Motivated by my tablet's failing USB connector and the great difficult of importing an original B&N charging dock (I'm overseas right now), I decided to try and see whether I could DIY a charging connector mysef, that would connect to the "quick connector" in the tablet's bottom.
First the good news:
I discovered that a standard 0.1" (2.54mm) PCB header like these has the exact pin size/spacing to make contact with the quick connector. So, no need to "fabricate" a connector from separate pins.
I used a digital multimeter to measure voltage on the pins, with the tablet both on and off, and with a USB charger both disconnected and connected, and apparently pin #1 (counting from the left when holding the tablet in landscape mode and looking at its front) is +5VDC, and pin #2 is GND (pin #3 seems to be a direct connection to pin #2 -- they are always at the exact same voltage --, and pins #9 and #10 seem to be +D/-D, not necessarily in that order).
Now the bad news:
I connected a 5V power supply to pins #1 and #2 as above (ie, +5VDC to pin #1 and GND to pin #2), but the tablet doesn' t react in any way (doesn't light up and show the "charging screen" when powered off, nor shows the "lightning bold" charging indicator in the battery icon in the notifier when powered on).
I tried changing GND to pin #3 (see above), with the same lack of results.
The moderately good news is that my attempt did not "fry" anything, the tablet kept working the same as before.
Does anyone have any more info on this "quick connector", or perhaps a better "solution" to my failing USB connector issue (I would be willing to disassemble and replace the USB connector, but I've searched Youtube and iFixIt to try and find a how-to-disassemble video, to no avail. The best I could find was these "internal photos" from the tablet' s FCC submission, but it doesn't show how to open it, and I see no screws nor anything -- not willing to try prying it open at the seams and risk cracking the case or worse).
Thanks in advance,
-- Durval.
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
tgp1994 said:
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear you like it!
tgp1994 said:
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be. I also remember that a long time ago (like, 2008) I had an original (pre-Android) Motorola Razr which wouldn't charge except in a computer or with Motorola's own charger. I was thinking of full-blow USB connect negotiation... but you are right, it could be just a resistor or something.
I'm just not too keen on connecting more 'stuff' into those pins by trial and error, specially the supposed D+/D- things... I've managed to not fry the device so far, but one never knows when one's luck is running out until it finally does...
tgp1994 said:
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the Discord link! I will be sure to contact them and learn what I can re: opening the device.
Cheers,
--
Durval.
Just keeping the thread posted: I posted a similar question on the Discord server linked above, here's what I got:
Ryzen5-3600 | iPhone 12 Pro Gold — Today at 9:13 AMIt's really difficult to open the Nook Tablet. Mine had a cracked screen so it was easier to open up the device. The screen is made out of this really cheap plastic, it breaks so easily. My guess is to get like a small plastic guitar pick and pry open the back.
[9:14 AM]
You might have to get like 3 or 4 for safe measures to help keep it open so it won't close shut again
So, I think it's better to refrain from trying and opening my Nook, at least for now ;-)
I'm trying to get a dock, when/if I get one I will open it and see for myself what the heck it does to make the Nook recognize it.
I will keep this thread posted.
Cheers,
-- Durval.
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
hugoyhu said:
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
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Did you have any luck? I bought the same keyboard for $4 at my B&N and just tore it apart. Turns out it only uses 5 of the 10 pins. The white box in the pic was pulled off so it originally did fit slightly more forward. Hopefully you can tell where it's supose to go.
Hello, this is my ported TWRP for Fossil Gen 4 "Firefish" but normaly it'll work with other gen 4 from Fossil-Group
important : you must have an unlocked bootloader, and all fossil watchs doesnt have usb pins (except gen 6) so you must do some soldering
For install:
-Download firefish.img
-Put device on fastboot
-fastboot command -> fastboot boot firefish.img (make this before flashing to be sure it works for you)
-after confirming it work you can flash it
statut : stable as far as i tested it
i ported this 2 or 3 years ago, i share it just now because i bricked my watch long ago when trying to do my own OS, found the .img file this month when doing clean up on my disks
Hello. I see that you've highlighted in red text the parts on soldering, but there aren't any imbedded links if that's what you intended there. I've got a Gen 5e that I'd be really interested to know if you've found a guide for soldering to the board to allow USB access for fossil watches.
gutogutarro said:
Hello. I see that you've highlighted in red text the parts on soldering, but there aren't any imbedded links if that's what you intended there. I've got a Gen 5e that I'd be really interested to know if you've found a guide for soldering to the board to allow USB access for fossil watches.
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There are four pads adjacent the connector the flex cable from the watch back (charging cable) mates with on the PCB. Oriented with this connector at the top or at 12 o'clock the left upper pad is GND, left lower is +5VDC, right upper is D+ and right lower is D- for full USB on the Gen 4 Explorist. I pretty much gave up on Fossil after this model but I wouldn't be surprised if yours isn't similarly laid out.
... Follow up reply below idk how to delete a comment on this forum.
lattosimbaste said:
There are four pads adjacent the connector the flex cable from the watch back (charging cable) mates with on the PCB. Oriented with this connector at the top or at 12 o'clock the left upper pad is GND, left lower is +5VDC, right upper is D+ and right lower is D- for full USB on the Gen 4 Explorist. I pretty much gave up on Fossil after this model but I wouldn't be surprised if yours isn't similarly laid out.
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I don't really wear the Gen 5 watch so I wasn't too worried about breaking it when I did this but I figured I'd make a follow up in case anybody comes across this thread.
I was able to get the Gen 5 opened up but the test pads are in a completely different layout than the Gen 4 Explorist. The bottom left 5 pads I pulled out my multimeter looking for a ground or 5V and I got 2.5 across a couple of them but nothing I could identify as the USB lines (frankly I'm not savvy enough with this to figure it out).
View attachment 5646433
Everything was fine with it, could charge it no issues light press tested it before I re-assembled to make sure it was still good. Fully pressed it back together and now I can't get it to charge and I thought "huh maybe I moved or disconnected something". Opened it back up and doubled checked the connectors and now it won't even turn on.
Maybe I accidentally got some static in and fried something I'm not sure but for now this watch died for my sins and I wanted to document how it went for me if anybody else was thinking about looking at it.
gutogutarro said:
I don't really wear the Gen 5 watch so I wasn't too worried about breaking it when I did this but I figured I'd make a follow up in case anybody comes across this thread.
I was able to get the Gen 5 opened up but the test pads are in a completely different layout than the Gen 4 Explorist. The bottom left 5 pads I pulled out my multimeter looking for a ground or 5V and I got 2.5 across a couple of them but nothing I could identify as the USB lines (frankly I'm not savvy enough with this to figure it out).
View attachment 5646433
Everything was fine with it, could charge it no issues light press tested it before I re-assembled to make sure it was still good. Fully pressed it back together and now I can't get it to charge and I thought "huh maybe I moved or disconnected something". Opened it back up and doubled checked the connectors and now it won't even turn on.
Maybe I accidentally got some static in and fried something I'm not sure but for now this watch died for my sins and I wanted to document how it went for me if anybody else was thinking about looking at it.
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Bummer