I want to make this E3D camera great but so for not sure. Ok in good lighting I'm happy. The 3d pictures have surprised me being much better than I imagined.
Now in lower light situations(not dark) the 2d pictures or ok while 3d pics get some yellow tint. I can get better results in 3d adjusting white balance and exposure.
Ideally I would like to stick to one setting for overall best results.
At this point I really don't have setting I'm happy with to share but I'm working on it
I am disappointed with the shutter button on the side of the phone, press half way to focus cool, press all the way down to take picture and there is a lag and if not perfectly still you get blur. The shutter button on the screen is faster and works better so far. I was excited about the dedicated shutter button but now I don't know.
Anyway hoping to get some setting from you camera pros
playing around
I've been shooting with sharpness, exposure and contrast at +1 and still playing around with white balance. No luck with back lit pictures of people even with flash come out dark.
What works for you ?
d12bn said:
I am disappointed with the shutter button on the side of the phone, press half way to focus cool, press all the way down to take picture and there is a lag and if not perfectly still you get blur. The shutter button on the screen is faster and works better so far. I was excited about the dedicated shutter button but now I don't know
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im with you 100% on this. I was at a family function and took clearer/faster pix with the on screen shutter button
I agree. The biggest dissapointment so far. The dedicated shutter button is pretty much useless. very slow, blurry compared to on screen button
I've been having no problem using the 3D camera, the video though is killing me.
My white balance for 3D stills comes off just fine, the exposures are fine. My one problem is with the dedicated shutter button and the time it takes to fire, I am used to shooting with a Nikon D3 and a Nikon D300 as my back up. This said, it feels more like a point and shoot camera in the way it focuses and fires, which is fine, I wouldn't expect it to shoot like top end DSLRs.
The problem I'm having with the video is that one I start recording it doesn't adjust the exposure while recording. This was particularly noticeable when I was shooting a series if videos while 4 wheeling yesterday. The video camera doesn't like going from shady into bright areas.
This is my 2 cents in it. I'm looking forward to root access, once I can look at the camera drivers and sensor settings I'll be able to reprogram them like I do point and click cameras.
Sent from my 3VO using XDA Premium App
I notice for 3d pics. You want to fill the picture up as much as possible. I've even taken macros that came out fairly good. When using the shutter, like any other cam, make sure to push it in half way to focus. Look at your 3d screen and move it around until you get the perfect three d effect. Hold still, hold your breath, and shoot. Give cam five second delay incase auto lighting is on and has it set to slow shutter mode. ISO aka... Also there is a new option. Exposure. High lighted areas, expose less, in low light expose more, change your settings at every shoot take. Your brightness, contrast, saturation , etc. Day use I found 1, 2, 3. R my settings. Contrast . 1, saturation 1 or 2 depending on exposure settings, and brightness, and sharpness three. Great thread. I bout this phone for its camera as I love photos as a hobby. So I was hesitant going from.8 Lo to 5. I havnt notice a had difference. I'm a very happy EVO 3d fan. Camera gets a 11 out of 10
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA Premium App
hi guys. im just curious how the video and pictures on the evo3d look compared to other 5 or 8mp cameras. are they sharp ect. how would the evo3d compare to say the iphone 4?
im in the market for a good camera phone
I personally feel the evo3d only takes great pictures sometimes - meaning it is hard to get good pictures.
The pictures tend to look better on the phone than when you look at them on a computer, where they tend to look more grainy when not in the brightest light. This feels like a step down from HTC's other offerings, which can look as good if not better than iphone pictures when pulled to your computer. I have gotten some fantastic pictures, but for the most part the camera has left me a bit wanting.
Playing around with 3d pictures is quite fun, and video recording is very good - particularly the audio, which was lacking in the evo4g.
eazye1984 said:
hi guys. im just curious how the video and pictures on the evo3d look compared to other 5 or 8mp cameras. are they sharp ect. how would the evo3d compare to say the iphone 4?
im in the market for a good camera phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It takes a much better picture than the Evo4G did. Much sharper looking, even with 3mp less.
However in low light it still gets grainy...the sensor can't help that, but the software can...but it doesn't. It does, however, take fantastic macro shots for a cell phone...surprisingly.
The 5mp cam on the NS4G I had for a few weeks was phenomenal. When I came back to the E3D it really made taking pictures with it seem pointless...and that's not even taking into consideration the .5-1.5 second shutter lag from when you push the button.
For a freakin' cell phone? It's fantastic. I've never used an iphone4 camera but I've only heard good things. But after seeing what a Samsung 5.0mp sensor/lens/software combo can do I am completely down on the E3D's camera. Granted it does 3D and it is a rather compelling effect...though the problems with the 5.0mp single-cam shots get even more pronounced in 3D at 2.5mp.
YMMV, etc etc etc. It is a cellphone after all.
EDIT: Also any shots with motion are pretty much ruined before you take them.
I agree with nhutpham, post number 2. The camera is not nearly what it should be. This phone revolved around its camera's, I mean come on its not called "Shooter" for nothing. 3D pics turn out good, still shots do anyway. But standard pics, thats a whole other ball game. Low light produces bad pics, even with the flash. Some pics will get a greenish tint to them (whites) when using flash. Rather then use all the "auto" settings I find setting things manually will result in better 2D pics. The device was not purchased by me for the camera though. I bought for the dual core processors Though now that I have my dual core I am wishing HTC would have stepped it up on the 2D camera
i think at stock the pictures look ok. but when you adjust iso,sharpness,exposure,contrast in the settings it makes them look much more vibrant and sharp.
i took a compartive shot of small rocks and the evo3d looked crisper and better overall compared to the iphone 4. so the camera cant be all that bad
Maybe this might help. I'm actually surprised at some of the pictures on here.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1243765
Being a photographer myself, I am impressed with the camera... but not all of the time. It takes phenomenal pictures outside in a good sunny day and even in overcast. Take the camera inside in average lighting of just about anyone's living room when the sunlight isn't dominating the light, then I'd be reluctant to show it of.
The poorer the lighting, the harder it is to focus and the photos can get very grainy. HTC also chose to compress the photos quite a bit which affects the picture quality, but makes it easier on the phone and network to share and upload. This goes back to a previous comment that they look better on the phone than on a larger display - its the compression.
If you're willing to root and mod this phone, there is a camera mod in the CDMA dev forum for this phone with camera improvements which makes me that much more impressed with the camera. Although, I think all that was changed was the compression for photos and video.
If you are taking a still picture under good light they look really good. If you have kids and are planning to take any pictures of them forget it.
Let's just they are playing baseball and you want to take a picture of them at bat. They get up there and you click the shoot button. The picture is then shown to you for review and you say wait, who the heck is that. Well while you thought you were snapping a picture of your child, by the time the camera actually took the picture your child got a double, the kid after him grounded to third, and in your picture is the batter who was batting 2 guys after him.....Great picture of someone elses child and of course that kid moved so the picture is blurry as well.
Okay, maybe I am exaggerating a little. You would probably get the batter right after him and not 2 guys down in the lineup, but it would still be blurry unless he batted like a statue....
Green, but otherwise good
Ya unfortunately the shutter lag makes the phone worthless in taking non still images.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Ok all, I have spent a lot of time testing the Rezound camera, taking hundreds of pictures of different subjects in different lighting conditions, constantly tweaking the settings, and have figured out a couple of things about the camera and some tricks or even 'necessities' to be able to take really great shots.
The first thing I figured out, which, from comments I've seen on the forum, others have noticed as well, is that the hardware is actually pretty capable, but the software is kind of stupid in many situations. Coming from the Incredible, which to me had one of the best camera software setups I'd ever seen on a phone, the Rezound comes close, but lost some of what it needs to capture those awesome pictures.
So, here I will go over the features, some not-so-apparent tips, and the settings of the camera app to give those of you who want the best picture quality some ideas to help achieve this.
- The main viewfinder, and tap to focus: This first item highlights two good features that the Incredible had that the Rez mysteriously lacks. The first, is while the Rez does allow you to tap anywhere on the screen to focus on that point, it does not allow you to take a shot by holding your finger in that spot for 1-2 seconds like the Inc did. The second, kind of indirect thing, is that it highlights that the Rez does not have any options to change the metering mode. HOWEVER, be aware, that when you tap to focus, the Rez will base it's light metering on whatever area you tapped to focus on, i.e.: tap to focus on a darker object or less lit area in the frame, and the Rez will automatically increase the overall exposure, tap in a well lit area or on a bright object, and the overall exposure will decrease.
Now, here is a trick you can use in conjuction with this feature. This will only work if you turn OFF auto-focus (more on that later). Let's say you've framed your subject, a person who isn't standing front and center, but is off to one side. You tap on them to focus on them, but they happen to be wearing a white T-shirt. The Rez will then lower the exposure of the shot thinking you're focusing on a bright spot. Briefly aim your camera away from the scene then line up your shot again, the Rez will automatically re-adjust exposure based on the overall scene brightness, and your shot won't come out too dark from focusing on your white-shirt-wearing friend.
Ok, now let's go through the settings/options, in order as they are found along the right edge of the viewfinder:
- Scenes... stay away from them!: Seriously, most of the scenes seem fairly useless to me, with a couple exceptions. Most of them do NOT allow changing of any of the picture settings and will use the default exposure/contrast/saturation etc., which for many types of shots are just going to look like crap. This especially applies for any low light/nighttime/indoor shots. Outdoors on a bright sunny day, you can often get good results with the default settings and choosing one of the optional scenes, but again, few of them offer any type of improvement.
Now there are a couple that are useful:
Action burst: only good in very well lit shots, figure outside daylight shots. Runs a very low ISO and fast shutter speed, takes multiple pics in rapid succession. Can definitely help get good pics of your kids/pets playing outside in the daytime.
Panorama: self explanatory. I love that this mode DOES still allow for custom image adjustments/white balance/iso. Can get very impressive results with patience and a steady hand.
Backlight HDR: this one is kind of weird... it doesn't seem to work well as a true HDR, but looking at the name, *backlight* HDR... i.e.: works well when there is bright light behind your subjects. Improves the dynamic range. Lets you take a picture of say, your friend in the foreground with the setting sun in the background, and not have the sun completely blown out or your friend a black silhouette. Shame this one doesn't allow custom image adjustments, again limiting it's usefulness to mostly outdoors/natural lighting.
Close-up: macro mode. The Rez actually has the ability to focus on VERY close subjects, though it can be reluctant to do so and may require several attempts. Again, this mode mysteriously locks out all custom adjustments... a real shame. However, here's another trick for you... you can change to Close Up mode, focus on your subject, then switch back to Auto mode to take your picture. This only works if Auto Focus is DISABLED, it will leave the focus set as is while switching modes, and you get your awesome macro shot.
I have found ZERO use for the other scenes and recommend not wasting your time, YMMV.
- The shutter button: Seems obvious right? Nothing special here.... well hold on, there are a couple small tricks and things to be aware of. The Rez has a very fast shutter speed for a camera phone, tap the shutter button and it takes the pic almost instantaneously. This is great... and bad. The problem is, when you are tapping that icon, you are moving the camera. Your whole hand moves from the simple action of extending your thumb that fraction of an inch. Which will often result in you getting a blurry shot, especially in less-than-optimal lighting.
Three ways I have found to combat this:
1. Some of you may have already figured out that you can tap and HOLD the shutter button, and after 1-2 seconds, it will refocus and take the shot. Additionally, if you have tapped a specific spot on the screen to focus, and then tap and hold the shutter, it will refocus on the same spot you tapped to focus. UNLESS YOU MOVE THE CAMERA. Remember that tip I mentioned for changing the light metering? That won't work here... if you aim the camera away and then back again, and then tap and hold the shutter, it will refocus on the center of the frame. Which brings me to method number two for getting non-blurry shots:
2. The two-hand, two-step. Holding the camera with both hands, use your left to tap to focus anywhere on the screen. AS SOON AS YOU TAP WITH YOUR LEFT, during that brief moment that the camera is refocusing, tap the shutter with your right and release, then hold still as possible. This basically delays the shot by a fraction of a second, as it won't snap the pic until it has finished focusing. By then you have pressed and released the shutter, and are hopefully holding still, and getting your non-blurry pic.
3. Use the self timer. This won't work with kids-at-play, but will work with any other subject that will hold still for you. Set the self timer to two seconds. This lets you tap and release the shutter, hold your breath, do whatever you have to do to get as still as possible. This also works if you tap and hold the shutter button.. it will automatically refocus, then count down the two seconds and shoot. This can be used in combination with some of the above described tips
- The flash: mostly self explanatory. One thing to note, enabling the flash seems to speed up the shutter a bit. In other words, if you have an antsy/fast moving subject (kids!), enabling the flash, even when it's bright enough not to need it, can result in a faster shot and less motion blur of your moving subject. I'll discuss a little more about using the flash even at times that the amount of lighting doesn't call for it in the white balance section. There are times it's best to turn it off in dim lighting as well. The Rez sensor actually does pretty good in low light and can do without the flash in many circumstances. Experiment. The flash can also help with white balance and color (more on this later), as well as causing the camera to use a lower ISO. The downsides are that it often causes red-eye (why does such a high end camera phone not have a feature for getting rid of red eye is beyond me), and that it will often blow out subjects, especially closer subjects. This can be mitigated with tap to focus or adjusting the overall exposure setting. Experiment.
Now we get the settings menu, and each item you can adjust therein
Self timer has already been discussed, and other than that little trick, it's use is self evident, so, moving on to Image Adjustments:
- Exposure: self explanatory. Increases/decreases brightness of the overall scene. I find that in any dim or artificially lit shots, the Rez tends to over-expose, so I often turn this down to -1. Use this in conjuction with tap to focus to get the brightness just right. Remember though, the Rez has a fairly narrow dynamic range. If the exposure is too high, whites will be blown out, which is almost impossible to fix with post processing. It's almost always better to go to low rather than too high. Better to have a dark shot, which you can then bring the brightness up without blowing out the light colors.
- Contrast: adjusts the "difference" between the light areas and the dark areas. Lower contrast brings out the detail in darker/shaded areas, but can make the scene look washed out or faded. Higher can result in striking shots, but dark areas will become darker and often lose all detail. 95% of the time I leave this setting at 0.
- Saturation: this is one of the settings I adjust the most often. Low/artificial light seems to confuse the Rez and often results in the saturation getting WAY too high. This setting is also directly affected by the white balance setting, and I find if I adjust one I usually have to adjust the other. More often than not though I am turning this DOWN to -1. Occassionally, I do have to turn it up to +1 but this is rare (certain fluorescent lighting situations).
- Sharpness: TURN IT DOWN!! The Rez WAY oversharpens pictures by default. I turn this down to -2 and recommend everyone do the same. SOME times I turn it to -1 (if I'm taking pics of something with text, for instance), but for almost everything I leave it at -2. This will sometimes result in soft shots, but this is another thing that is much easier to fix in post-processing than a pic that is oversharp. Lowering the sharpness also lessens the noisiness of lower light pics.
- White Balance: This is the other setting I adjust fairly frequently. The Rez is retarded when it comes to compensating for artificial lighting. Incandescent lit shots will often have a yellow or orange tint to them, fluorescent shots will be green tinted. Switching to the appropriate white balance for these types of lighting will usually correct this, but often necessitates adjusting the Saturation setting as well. For Incandescent especially, I find I usually have to turn the Saturation down to -1, for Fluorescent, I SOMETIMES have to turn it up to +1
Now, using the flash seems to "fix" the auto white balance in artificial lighting, and the saturation as well. In other words, if you turn the flash on, or if the lighting is dim enough that the camera uses it in auto, you will generally want the white balance set to auto and the saturation at 0. Sometimes, it's better to use the flash on artificial lighting even when it's bright enough already, so you don't have to struggle to get the right white balance and saturation. Most pics I've taken with the flash seem to come out "just right", as long as nothing gets blown out.
- ISO: Auto works for bright or natural lighting, but the Rez loves to default to way too high of an ISO for mid or low lighting, resulting in very noisy pics. This is suprising given the backside illuminated sensor which is supposed to alleviate the need for a high ISO in low light. And it somewhat has. Depending what you are shooting, you can usually get away with ISO as low as 200 in low light or indoor lighting, and get a MUCH nicer, MUCH less noisy pic. But if your subject is moving around, or you can't keep your hands still, you will likely get blurry shots... it's a trade off and you have to figure out what you can get away with. Either way, in low light shots, it's better to manually pick an ISO when possible and convenient to get less noise.
- Resolution: self explanatory. I notice almost no difference between 5 MP and 8 MP shots, quality wise, when viewed on a 19" laptop monitor, so consider that if you would like to save some space on your SD card by going with 5 MP. I leave it at 8.
Review duration: Here is a tip that can a) help you get better shots of moving subjects (kids!), b) get the same effect as the "Action Shot" scene mode BUT be able to use your custom image settings, and c) show smug Galaxy Nexus owners that they aren't the only ones with "zero shutter lag". Simply set review duration to "no review". You can shoot photos in rapid succession with very little delay between shots. When I'm shooting my four year old, I generally take 3-5 pics in a row and usually end up with at least two good, blur free shots. It's easier to take several quickly, review them later and delete the ones you don't want, then to take one, look at it, see that it's no good, take another one, get frustrated as your kid got impatient and won't hold still.... etc etc.
Storage, wide-screen, geotagging, all self explanatory
- Auto-enhance: leave this OFF, it ruins pics past the point of saving. It can completely muddy fine details in pics, it doesn't eliminate noise, it makes things look smudged... turn it off... please... offfffffffffffff... if you really think it helps, you can always apply it AFTER the pic is taken and saved... I'll cover this in a minute.
- Auto-focus/face detection: For reasons discussed above, I usually leave this off. It works fine for center focused shots, but limits some of the things you can do to enhance your shots. Face detection is hit or miss, and you can do better just tapping to focus on your subjects face.
Shutter sound is self explanatory. Grid is preference, I leave it on, helps to line up shots.
A note about AFTER you have taken your picture: most of you probably already know this, the Rez allows you to do some things with the pic AFTER it's saved. In addition to the usual cropping and rotating, if you tap the pic, then tap Edit, then Effects, there are options to adjust the look of the picture, including the Auto Enhance feature that you have HOPEFULLY disabled in the settings menu before taking your shots. There are also several frames you can choose from to make your pics more interesting. The best thing here is that if you apply an effect or frame after the shot is taken vs. before, it will save a second copy, leaving the first, unaltered copy there as well.
Another kind of side note... I've had great results using third party camera software. I LOVE Vignette, it is VERY feature rich, and can get much better shots than the stock app. It has many more settings, including some of the 'missing' ones that I mentioned at the beginning of this post, such as the ability to change metering modes. It also allows much finer adjustment of the custom image settings, exposure, saturation, sharpness, etc. It has many more scene modes to choose from, and has a 'steady shot' mode, which will not let the camera snap the pic until you are holding relatively still... this eliminates 98% of the blur that results when you tap the shutter button and the shot is snapped immediately. It is in the market and I highly recommend it.
Well, I hope this has been helpful for anyone who has taken the time to read it. Don't forget to hit the thanks button if it did you any good. The hardware on the Rez is pretty damn good, the software just ... needs some help... to get the best out of it.
Nice, thanks. I'm going to really play with the camera this week and will take all of this into consideration.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk
Biggest thing I found is that auto white balance is rarely ever right. I always find myself making incandescent my default for most indoor photos.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA App
dude, i read that entire post, and i thank you for writing it all out.
i bought camera 360 ages ago, but i can't find it in the market anymore! i used to just load it from titanium on my inc, but it's just gone now..wtf!? i paid for that app! anyone have any ideas
Camera 360 is another good one. Two things wrong with it on the Rezound: 1) adjusting the exposure does nothing, 2) it only displays on 2/3 of the display. But it works well and takes good pics.
Another good app is HDR Camera +, which does much better HDR than the stock app
Very well written post. Thank you. I think everyone, including people who shoot with a DSLR like myself, can benefit from some of the tips that you brought up.
So I might as well give up on that for this phone until it's put back into the market then huh?
bast525 said:
Camera 360 is another good one. Two things wrong with it on the Rezound: 1) adjusting the exposure does nothing, 2) it only displays on 2/3 of the display. But it works well and takes good pics.
Another good app is HDR Camera +, which does much better HDR than the stock app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA App
One of the best options using Vignette is you can shoot the pic using either the search or the volume buttons.
~John
ok here is the odd thing about vignette AND 360.... last I checked, the FREE versions of both apps were still in the market, but the PAY versions were not....
Both can still be found elsewhere in their full versions.
Thanks for taking the time for typing this out.
Edit: Does Vignette not take as high resolution pictures as the stock camera software? To above post the pay version is in the market.
Hmm nvm seems the picture I took with Vignette is 3264x2448 vs 3264x1840 from stock.
in vignette, how can get full screen 16:9 shots by going into the "frames" drop down. By default it does full resolution 4:3 shots
Also, when possible, use some type of stabilization - a table top, lean against a wall, use timer and hold breath, whatevs. Movement is the enemy of sharpness. As for fast moving subjects, since the shutter speed seems to be static, your stuck trying your luck with flash and hoping for the best. Usually 1/500 is the minimum to capture motion without blur, I don't know what it is on this phone as it uses an electronic shutter
As for the "flash", do not use for subjects or scenes (e.g. landscapes) that are far away. It is pointless beyond the effective range of the flash (which varies based on ambient light) and can throw off the "cameras" metering. If your subject is backlit (lots of light behind them), turn your flash on (and hope its enough).
ISO - use the lowest setting possible to get the shot. ISO is the sensor's sensitivity to light. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive to light it is (meaning you can take photos in a darker settings) BUT the more digital noise your photo will have. Or go the lazy way and let the camera figure it out for you (auto). I suppose on a sensor this small, it doesn't matter too much.
"The best camera is the one you have with you."
On the subject of stillness... I agree, any help you can find should be taken advantage of. For one, I ALWAYS hold the phone with both hands when taking photos. And yes, if there is anything I can lean or rest on, I use it.
My wife purchased a cell phone tripod off Amazon, but the mount is too small for the Rez... I looked at a few and they all seem sized for the iPhone and nothing larger...
Thank you for the write up. Just got Vignette, is the scene change to steadyshot the only change you would make? Cheers!
I do take 98% of my pics using steadyshot also, I turn the exposure and saturation down one notch. Leave sharpness all the way down. I turn the jpeg setting to "fine" from "super fine", which drops the file size of one 8 MP photo from 4-5 MB down to 1-2, with no discernible drop in picture quality on my laptop screen. I use some of the effects and frames sometimes. I tend to usw center weighted light metering vs average but it depends what you're shooting.
Updated the first post with some tips on disabling review duration to take shots rapidly.
bast, do you think it's worth it to get that camera FX 10 cent app today? have you tried it?
jayochs said:
bast, do you think it's worth it to get that camera FX 10 cent app today? have you tried it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you even read your question? is it worth it to get a 10 cent app.
i think this might be the end of the internet.
Very well written, thanks!
argh no flaming please.... I worked hard on this post and don't want to see it go to crap.
yes I tried camera fx and I was not impresses, uninstalled it five mins later. It is very limited on options compared to stock or vignette. There are no adjustments for exposure, sharpness, saturation, etc. No tap to focus. It is not an app for people who want to maximize the camera potential. Stick with stock, vignette, or to a lesser extent, camera 360.
Has anyone else noticed a change in colour/saturation between different lens modes?
For instance my wide angle lens seems more washed out than the main 1.0x lens.
Kind regards
Yes
i dont even know how to utilize each lens hahahs
This would be normal in my opinion. You have 3 different lenses of different quality (the main 1x being superior). You also have different zooms which means the auto white balance will probably be different since the scene on each is different. You also have a different amount of light entering each meaning different iso and/or exposure time.
This will all have a slight impact on the output of the picture. To get the closest look you would probably need to shoot raw.
That said, take a look at the 3 pictures I took of some frame in the room I'm staying at. I find the 3 to be relatively comparable (all taken in auto, master AI off). The 0.6x white balance is a bit off. It also look a bit blurry since the crop for the frame is much more exaggerated than the other 2.
I've noticed some white balance difference when taking shots outside mostly between the 1x and 3x lenses but like I said, sort of expected outcome. If you want to make sure it looks almost identical, you'll have to start playing with manual white balance, pro mode and possibly raw.
A real life example of 2 shots I took recently on a trip. One with the 0.6x, other with 1x. In this case, I'd say the 0.6x colors are slightly more vivid. Again, that's just the auto post processing of the phone based on overall scene exposure (these were also auto, ai off).
In lightroom I could probably get both to look identical even having shot them in jpg format.
Anyway, hopefully this all helps?
PhilMorin said:
A real life example of 2 shots I took recently on a trip. One with the 0.6x, other with 1x. In this case, I'd say the 0.6x colors are slightly more vivid. Again, that's just the auto post processing of the phone based on overall scene exposure (these were also auto, ai off).
In lightroom I could probably get both to look identical even having shot them in jpg format.
Anyway, hopefully this all helps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's brilliant thanks alot. Makes a lot of sense. I'm still getting used to this camera and have taken a few great photos so far but seems to be a lot of trial and error finding the best mode for a certain situation.
Nice pictures by the way.
Thanks again.
My tip to you: I stay in auto mode, ai turned off for almost all pictures only switching to portrait or aperture when needed.
I sometimes adjust exposure in high contrast scenes by tapping where I want to focus and then dragging the little sun icon up or down. I've almost never used pro mode as I was usually happy with the outcome.