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Any third party extended battery options for the S7? I prefer the slim version if possible.
Sent from my SGH-T849 using XDA App
I rigged up a battery pack using 4 rechargeable Energizer AAA's and just plug it into the DC power socket and double-sided taped it to the back of the unit
I imagine I could use some left over spare Li-Ion batteries from other phones though.
UPDATE: someone asked how
STEP 1: Buy something similar to this http://www.littlebirdelectronics.com/products/4%2dAAA-Battery-Holder.html
STEP 2: Buy a male plug that fits the female power socket on the S7 Like this but the correct size http://www.littlebirdelectronics.com/products/1.3MM-PLUG%2d2.5MM-SOCKET-DC-ADAPTOR.html
STEP 3: Solder them together so that the + and - charge come out of the same wires as the wall-charger
STEP 4: Plug in batteries
If this looks/sounds difficult, don't even attempt it, you WILL break your tablet.
Since the original battery do last too long, i found this 2 option that i think that work with S7:
Good price and free shipping
lol i cant post links yet, sorry guys...
here goes the links for the battery extender....
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4284~r.14121877
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.48449~r.14121877
Nice guys! I was searching for an internal battery solution.
These battery packs look nice but be carefull, the output is only 500 mA. The S7 charger is a 2amp output charger. I'm not sure how well it will run on a lower input.
Ives
mowermech said:
These battery packs look nice but be carefull, the output is only 500 mA. The S7 charger is a 2amp output charger. I'm not sure how well it will run on a lower input.
Ives
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Click to collapse
The DC pack will only feed what the unit draws, and I doubt very much that it draws the entire 2000mA.
I have rigged up a USB charging cable for myself, USB pumps out 5v at 500mA max per port (I'm only using 1) and it charges a little slower than from the wall, depending on which computer I'm charging from, but apart from that it works great still and I can use the same cable to charge from other USB-charging devices like the one I have in my car.
The 500mA output will just mean it charges slower, and seeing how it's only a battery extender (IE, the oem battery is still required) and not a charging solution (the S7 can run without the battery off only the charge from the wall), the charge provided will be fine for extending the battery life.
davidcampbell said:
The DC pack will only feed what the unit draws, and I doubt very much that it draws the entire 2000mA.
I have rigged up a USB charging cable for myself, USB pumps out 5v at 500mA max per port (I'm only using 1) and it charges a little slower than from the wall, depending on which computer I'm charging from, but apart from that it works great still and I can use the same cable to charge from other USB-charging devices like the one I have in my car.
The 500mA output will just mean it charges slower, and seeing how it's only a battery extender (IE, the oem battery is still required) and not a charging solution (the S7 can run without the battery off only the charge from the wall), the charge provided will be fine for extending the battery life.
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Click to collapse
500mAh as supplied by standard USB will charge but as you say only slowly.
It will not start a charge if the battery has been allowed to drop too low. That's common with all Lion batteries and is why you get a high current wall charger to do the job.
If you are using the device at the same time (and depending on the functions in use and the state of charge of the battery) you will definately struggle with any positive charge and will experience heat build up in the USB port, cable and device so be carefull!
If you are also using the device as a phone and get a call there will be an extra high peak current draw that has to be contended with and that complicates things further.
With all the tests that I have done allong these lines 1000mAh is a bare minimum to cope with eventualities and even then it's borderline.
I have blown car adapter fuses and had low current phone chargers get really hot.
I now only use 2000mAH rated chargers.
Are there any? I would really want to have a battery that could last at least 6 hrs... Any suggestions?
Stjom said:
Are there any? I would really want to have a battery that could last at least 6 hrs... Any suggestions?
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Click to collapse
Energizer XPAL XP18000
That will give you about an extra 12-18 hours,
But no internal battery larger than standard. Why would you want one when the external packs are usable with any device and don't become redundant when you upgrade to a different model?
I made such a battery of two packages of Chinese Tablet battery voltage of 7.4V LiJon / 1500mAh connected in series and used a converter on the circuit LM2576 (with car charger navigation) [//chomikuj.pl/wibi) -> Huawei Ideos S7/Dodatkowa bateria]. This additional charger to recharge your battery voltage 8.4V. Pictures and diagrams from the following link will explain everything.
The Atrix's default adapter in an 5v = .85A, while the Ipad's is 5v = 2.1A. Is it safe for the battery to use this charger? I also have been using the ipod charger on my atrix too, should i countinue to use the ipod charger or does that have negitive effects too, ipod charger is 5v = 1A
Atrix: 5v = .85A
Ipod/Iphone: 5v = 1A
Ipad: 5v = 2.1A
Typically, a device will only pull what it needs, amperage-wise. The ratings on power supplies are, to my knowledge, always indications of maximum amperage, not any form of 'forced' current. Thus, the only time you need to be worried is if it is lower than your device's required input. You should be fine with either.
+1
That's correct. I actually spent a lot time researching that kind of stuff because I use electronic cigarettes and finding chargers for them was difficult. Anyways, as long as it's 5V it should be fine. They actually make AC adapters that are iPad "compatible", meaning that they are just rated at 2.1A but it still works with the iPhone which the OP has stated uses a lower Amperage.
ian426 said:
Typically, a device will only pull what it needs, amperage-wise. The ratings on power supplies are, to my knowledge, always indications of maximum amperage, not any form of 'forced' current. Thus, the only time you need to be worried is if it is lower than your device's required input. You should be fine with either.
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Click to collapse
Thank you, both of you.
Would it charge the same rate?
the fact that a device will pull as much as it needs is true, but that is true only to the devices, appliances, and anything that is using the electricity, not storing it - which is the case with the battery. any electrical device uses only as much power as it needs. for example: a 55watt house light bulb will only use .5 amps, (110 volts AC) even though the circuit is wired for 15 amps max.
When it comes to cellphones, the cellphone is the device that uses the power and the battery stores the power. during charging, battery will try to pull as much in as you will give it, unless there is a limiting factor involved. a limiting factor can be a charger it self, which will supply 1.0 amps, .85 amp max, or what ever the case may be. also there may be a limiting factor built in to the phones circuitry it self that would allow only so much to go through ( i seriously doubt though)
By plugging in to 2.1A charger, the battery will try to intake all 2.1 amps,
Pro: you are charging the battery in half the time.
Con: if it doesn't destroy the battery right away, the lifespan of it and usefulness decreases dramatically.
This is called overcharging the battery, do some research on that and you will find out that overcharging the battery is never a good thing.
2.1A is not enough to destroy the battery right away, but if you would have plugged in 5 or 10 amp charger, it probably would, i'm just saying this to explain the concept.
I personally do use a 1.0A charger that i have left over from previous cellphone (touch pro 2) and your ipod charger should be ok too, but I wouldn't use anything bigger then that.
a small experiment that you can conduct which may or may not work. compare the temperatures of the battery/cellphone while it is charging on .85amp charger and 2.1amp, when it is on a bigger charger, it should get a lot hotter, and that is what destroys the battery.
As far as my knowledge goes, i have taken enough classes about electricity and electronics, and have been working in the field for several years, so i hope i was helpful enough and explained it in simple enough terms for everyone.
hlywine said:
the fact that a device will pull as much as it needs is true, but that is true only to the devices, appliances, and anything that is using the electricity, not storing it - which is the case with the battery. any electrical device uses only as much power as it needs. for example: a 55watt house light bulb will only use .5 amps, (110 volts AC) even though the circuit is wired for 15 amps max.
When it comes to cellphones, the cellphone is the device that uses the power and the battery stores the power. during charging, battery will try to pull as much in as you will give it, unless there is a limiting factor involved. a limiting factor can be a charger it self, which will supply 1.0 amps, .85 amp max, or what ever the case may be. also there may be a limiting factor built in to the phones circuitry it self that would allow only so much to go through ( i seriously doubt though)
By plugging in to 2.1A charger, the battery will try to intake all 2.1 amps,
Pro: you are charging the battery in half the time.
Con: if it doesn't destroy the battery right away, the lifespan of it and usefulness decreases dramatically.
This is called overcharging the battery, do some research on that and you will find out that overcharging the battery is never a good thing.
2.1A is not enough to destroy the battery right away, but if you would have plugged in 5 or 10 amp charger, it probably would, i'm just saying this to explain the concept.
I personally do use a 1.0A charger that i have left over from previous cellphone (touch pro 2) and your ipod charger should be ok too, but I wouldn't use anything bigger then that.
a small experiment that you can conduct which may or may not work. compare the temperatures of the battery/cellphone while it is charging on .85amp charger and 2.1amp, when it is on a bigger charger, it should get a lot hotter, and that is what destroys the battery.
As far as my knowledge goes, i have taken enough classes about electricity and electronics, and have been working in the field for several years, so i hope i was helpful enough and explained it in simple enough terms for everyone.
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Click to collapse
I might have to double check that. There is a chance that there is some sort of limiting circuit between the wall and the charger for the Atrix... I am fairly certain at least laptops do so. I will see if I have a stronger charger and I will check the voltage across the leads in the atrix... if I can.
Its not voltage that you should be checking, voltage should be same in all usb chargers, about 5 volts, you should be checking amps
hlywine said:
Its not voltage that you should be checking, voltage should be same in all usb chargers, about 5 volts, you should be checking amps
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Click to collapse
My mistake... realized that after I posted it.
Also -- I do not have any USB charger that is over one amp, so I cannot check this. If anyone has a mutineer and a more powerful charger, they could do so.
The important factor is the Voltage which is at 5V for both the iPad and Atrix chargers. Whether it is rated at 10W or 5W does not matter because that just reflects the capacity for the current. And the charger is "rated" at 2.1 meaning it can handle that current rather than meaning it will force it. The "draw" of current is decided by the phone itself, as long as the Voltage is identical, the other factors should not matter.
If you read the "Summary" here it will say that, with the iPad charger, you can charge an iPhone which is similar to the Atrix in charging specs:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4327
And here are a couple more links:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZjRm8nkv9Q
http://munnecke.com/blog/?p=836
hlywine said:
the fact that a device will pull as much as it needs is true, but that is true only to the devices, appliances, and anything that is using the electricity, not storing it - which is the case with the battery. any electrical device uses only as much power as it needs. for example: a 55watt house light bulb will only use .5 amps, (110 volts AC) even though the circuit is wired for 15 amps max.
When it comes to cellphones, the cellphone is the device that uses the power and the battery stores the power. during charging, battery will try to pull as much in as you will give it, unless there is a limiting factor involved. a limiting factor can be a charger it self, which will supply 1.0 amps, .85 amp max, or what ever the case may be. also there may be a limiting factor built in to the phones circuitry it self that would allow only so much to go through ( i seriously doubt though)
By plugging in to 2.1A charger, the battery will try to intake all 2.1 amps,
Pro: you are charging the battery in half the time.
Con: if it doesn't destroy the battery right away, the lifespan of it and usefulness decreases dramatically.
This is called overcharging the battery, do some research on that and you will find out that overcharging the battery is never a good thing.
2.1A is not enough to destroy the battery right away, but if you would have plugged in 5 or 10 amp charger, it probably would, i'm just saying this to explain the concept.
I personally do use a 1.0A charger that i have left over from previous cellphone (touch pro 2) and your ipod charger should be ok too, but I wouldn't use anything bigger then that.
a small experiment that you can conduct which may or may not work. compare the temperatures of the battery/cellphone while it is charging on .85amp charger and 2.1amp, when it is on a bigger charger, it should get a lot hotter, and that is what destroys the battery.
As far as my knowledge goes, i have taken enough classes about electricity and electronics, and have been working in the field for several years, so i hope i was helpful enough and explained it in simple enough terms for everyone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks live4nyy, i never saw those before. with all the stuff described there, the only conclusion possible is that each device has its built in limiter on how much it will pull while charging, or apple figures that with a bigger charger your battery on ipod/iphone will still last you past the 1 year manufacturers warranty expiration date, but barely past that date, instead of lasting 3-5 years like its suppose to. what ever the case is with apple, i just hope we have a safety built in into our atrix phones. I guess the only way to find out is to actually check the amperage while its charging.
I'm almost positive that the lithium batteries in phones these days are "rated" for specific current and have built in circuits that dictates the "flow", which is also the same thing that causes the battery to go into a "trickle" charge when near capacity. Just for that there has to be some sort of "regulation" happening. See also here:
http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm
But I agree, better safe than sorry. If you happen to have an iPad charger that you plan on using let me know how it goes. I'm curious as well.
hlywine said:
thanks live4nyy, i never saw those before. with all the stuff described there, the only conclusion possible is that each device has its built in limiter on how much it will pull while charging, or apple figures that with a bigger charger your battery on ipod/iphone will still last you past the 1 year manufacturers warranty expiration date, but barely past that date, instead of lasting 3-5 years like its suppose to. what ever the case is with apple, i just hope we have a safety built in into our atrix phones. I guess the only way to find out is to actually check the amperage while its charging.
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Click to collapse
Hi,
I plan to disappear into the woods and come back out when I've finished my thesis (more or less). So I'm interested in buying a solar panel to use with my transformer and since people here seem pretty knowledgeable about charging the transformer I thought I would run it by you guys to make sure I do not miss something important.
I've gathered so far that I will need at least an 11v panel.
Also, it seems I need USB 3.0 to charge by USB. Is this correct?
And if I can't get USB 3.0 I will have to modify a 2.0 wire or plug or whatever... I prefer to avoid this
What should I go for in terms og Watts?
Would it be reccommendable to buy a panel with a battery to get a more even current?
Recommandations would be great!
Wow, I thought I was the only one that even remotely cared about this!
I have a Goal0 Nomad 7m. It's 12v, and I have had no luck getting it to charge my TF. Do you think it might be because of the USB 3.0 requirement?
Great that I'm not alone! Too bad that it doesn't work though...
I got the thing about USB 3.0 from this thread;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321
reading it again I noticed this line;
"The Asus charger does need a 3.0 cable extension to work. But with a DIY charger you don't need USB 3.0 cables or connectors."
So I'm not really sure if it makes a difference whether you use USB 2.0 or 3.0.
Anyway the specs for your Nomad says that it's 5v for USB output and 12v for DC output so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't work with the transformer.
Miki T. said:
Great that I'm not alone! Too bad that it doesn't work though...
I got the thing about USB 3.0 from this thread;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321
reading it again I noticed this line;
"The Asus charger does need a 3.0 cable extension to work. But with a DIY charger you don't need USB 3.0 cables or connectors."
So I'm not really sure if it makes a difference whether you use USB 2.0 or 3.0.
Anyway the specs for your Nomad says that it's 5v for USB output and 12v for DC output so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't work with the transformer.
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Click to collapse
You're right!...that actually means there's options. Shouldn't something like this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inve...=UTF8&coliid=IUJZFD56YRM5K&colid=HQA2VAAM7MXY
I think I'm gonna have to order this, and give it a shot. I already have the panel & the DC jack, so I might as well.
Hey nice find! It seems like it should work, though don't take my word for it. I'm really ignorant of this stuff which is why I started the thread to begin with In any case $22 for a charger sounds fairly cheap.
Let me know if it works or not!
Solar panels that put out more than 28W (5V, 2A = 10W + 15V, 1.2A = 18W) would be enough, but then you'd likely want to run it through an inverter to get 110v AC, then the ASUS charger.
Until and unless ASUS comes out with a car charger that would work with the dock, running an inverter to generate an AC signal, then running it through the AC adapter will be the way to go.
Figuring in efficiency losses, you'll probably want 50-75W worth of solar panels for this to work. You can also use a 12v battery as a ballast.
FrayAdjacent said:
Solar panels that put out more than 28W (5V, 2A = 10W + 15V, 1.2A = 18W) would be enough, but then you'd likely want to run it through an inverter to get 110v AC, then the ASUS charger.
Until and unless ASUS comes out with a car charger that would work with the dock, running an inverter to generate an AC signal, then running it through the AC adapter will be the way to go.
Figuring in efficiency losses, you'll probably want 50-75W worth of solar panels for this to work. You can also use a 12v battery as a ballast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need 5V and 12V, only 12V. The Asus charger only puts out 5V for non-transformer devices. Don't introduce all the loss from the 110V converter, just charge a 12V battery with a panel(the Asus will draw 18 watts at full charge), then charge the transformer from the battery. Just get a usb extender, cut it, and hook negative to pin 4 and positive to pin 1. I would recommend a 5 Ohm resistor to limit amperage, but it isn't necessary.
I'd like to hear how it works out.
I was considering putting some flexible solar panels on the back of the transformer. But with the dock, I've got more than enough power for my needs. Plus, the back of the transformer won't get that much sunlight.
I'm now moving on to trying to put solar panels on the back of my cellphone (Huawei U8800). It's a great phone, and the battery lasts all day, so long as I don't play too many games.
One thing you might want to consider is an external battery pack. They are pretty cheap here in China, and have huge batteries in them. They even have some with built in solar panels. I'm sure you could find one that could recharge the Transformer. Then you could have the battery pack in the sun charging via the solar panel, and you sitting in the shade with the transformer. At night plug the battery up to the transformer to let it charge while you sleep. The transformer with dock should have more than enough battery life to last all day.
If I come across any useful information during my research, I'll let you know.
Miki T. said:
Hey nice find! It seems like it should work, though don't take my word for it. I'm really ignorant of this stuff which is why I started the thread to begin with In any case $22 for a charger sounds fairly cheap.
Let me know if it works or not!
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Click to collapse
I bought it! ...and it will be here this afternoon. Thanks to Amazon Prime local delivery .
I'll let you know how/if it works out.
philburkhardt said:
I bought it! ...and it will be here this afternoon. Thanks to Amazon Prime local delivery .
I'll let you know how/if it works out.
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Click to collapse
Stuff like that is great for the car, but you're gonna lose SO much efficiency through it, then even more loss from the Asus charger plugged into it. A 15W solar panel should be enough to charge the TF directly. Using an inverter with the asus charger, you'll probably need 50-100W. Just FYI.
msticninja said:
Stuff like that is great for the car, but you're gonna lose SO much efficiency through it, then even more loss from the Asus charger plugged into it. A 15W solar panel should be enough to charge the TF directly. Using an inverter with the asus charger, you'll probably need 50-100W. Just FYI.
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Click to collapse
Yup, you're right. No go on charging the TF. Like you said, it will be great for charging things in the car. Just not off my 12W solar panel. I think I'm gonna have to upgrade my panel .
philburkhardt said:
Yup, you're right. No go on charging the TF. Like you said, it will be great for charging things in the car. Just not off my 12W solar panel. I think I'm gonna have to upgrade my panel .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The real joy of the TF is that it charges directly from 12 volts, so, assuming you have a 12 volt 12W panel, you should go get a 12 volt battery, 4AH(amp-hour) at least. It will be about the size of an old 6 volt lantern battery. Hook the panel to the battery to charge the battery, hook a female usb port to the battery, and hook the TF directly to the female usb port. You'll probably be able to get through a whole night on a 4AH battery + the TFs battery.
Great! Lots of useful replies... thanks a lot!
I plan on not using the adapter and use a USB extender the way msticninja wrote, since I don't want to carry or pay for something that delivers 50-100W.
I think I've found the panel I am going to buy. I cannot include outside links until I've posted 8 messages, but you can easily find it by googling "Portable 9x 2.5 W Solar Panel". So 22.5 Watt... that should suffice. That's at 18v * 1.25a.
It seems that all the solutions that comes with a battery are all quite pricey, but then I don't really need some fancy battery do I? Some do-it-yourself solution should be fine as long as the battery is rechargeable, 4AH("at least") and 12v right?
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
By the way, is the battery an absolute necessity or is that only if I want to charge during the evening/night?
What I hope to be able to do is; be away from mains for about one week at a time, and use my laptop, say, 8 hours a day. I hope this will be enough...
Miki T. said:
That's at 18v * 1.25a.
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
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Click to collapse
The Asus charger will put out 15V at most, as marked on the charger itself. I don't think I'd use anything higher than 12V into the tablet/dock. You'd probably want to use some kind of voltage regulator to drop the 18V to 12V.
Without knowing the internal workings of the dock/tablet, I can't really comment more than that.
Miki T. said:
Great! Lots of useful replies... thanks a lot!
I plan on not using the adapter and use a USB extender the way msticninja wrote, since I don't want to carry or pay for something that delivers 50-100W.
I think I've found the panel I am going to buy. I cannot include outside links until I've posted 8 messages, but you can easily find it by googling "Portable 9x 2.5 W Solar Panel". So 22.5 Watt... that should suffice. That's at 18v * 1.25a.
It seems that all the solutions that comes with a battery are all quite pricey, but then I don't really need some fancy battery do I? Some do-it-yourself solution should be fine as long as the battery is rechargeable, 4AH("at least") and 12v right?
Do I want to reduce the voltage of the solar panel to 12 instead of 18? And should I worry about overcharging the battery?
By the way, is the battery an absolute necessity or is that only if I want to charge during the evening/night?
What I hope to be able to do is; be away from mains for about one week at a time, and use my laptop, say, 8 hours a day. I hope this will be enough...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will need some sort of voltage regulation to maintain 12V. That's pretty much a requirement for any solar charging system. Panels themselves do not usually have regulation, so the output voltage of the panel is a function of the amount of light the panel is receiving.
This is a really quick search, but this satisfies all the requirements for what you need, and it's only $20:
http://www.amazon.com/Ramsond-SunShield-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B0031FQ1S6
Feel free to search for alternatives, but use that as your starting point for searching.
Another quick search to give you an idea what you're looking for as far as batteries:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=12v+4ah+battery&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15393345737619657558&sa=X&ei=lq5MTsCGGMSCsgLgivmCBw&ved=0CHIQ8wIwAA
If I made something for myself, I'd use Lithium Ion cells and use a smart lipo charger to regulate the solar panel output, but it needs more research, and will cost more.
This will be interesting!
I've ordered the parts - the panel I mentioned, the Ramsond SunShield 12V 8A Solar Charge Controller Regulator that msticninja suggested and a Super Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V 6800mAh. I ordered the panel and the battery off of sunsky. They seem to have very fair prices.
All the parts came to a total of $164, shipping included. Compared to complete sets with the same specs I'd say that's a really good deal, provided I make it work
I'll let you know!
Miki T. said:
This will be interesting!
I've ordered the parts - the panel I mentioned, the Ramsond SunShield 12V 8A Solar Charge Controller Regulator that msticninja suggested and a Super Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V 6800mAh. I ordered the panel and the battery off of sunsky. They seem to have very fair prices.
All the parts came to a total of $164, shipping included. Compared to complete sets with the same specs I'd say that's a really good deal, provided I make it work
I'll let you know!
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Click to collapse
Give me a link to that Li-ion battery. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, you'll need to get a lipo charger instead of/in addition to the Ramsond regulator. I'll check it out for you.
EDIT: If it's this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-6800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion-Battery-/150530536976
it's hard to say, but I think it has it's own charging circuit, because the wall wart included with it doesn't look like a lithium charger. But it does have a charge finished light, so, if the light stays on when the battery isn't plugged in, you should be okay. If the green light only turns on when a fully charged battery is connected, then you might not be fine. Confirm what you're getting by posting a link, and I'll try to make sure. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, the battery will explode in a fireball.
EDIT2: This one has it's own charging circuit, and it sounds like it's what's inside the other one I linked, so you should be okay if it's either of these.
http://www.lunershop.com/product_info.php?language=en¤cy=USD&products_id=2566
Just wondering if something like this would help.
http://www.ioffer.com/i/solar-battery-panel-usb-charger-for-cell-phone-mp3-mp4-147450373?source=eisi
I have no understanding of electricity, except the basic 4th grade stuff. This is a cool project thought. I'm planning on making a 55 paracord strap that will attach to my case and fit like a messenger bag. Having solar panels to charge it and a paracord strap would make the TF a nice camping device
SwiftLegend said:
Just wondering if something like this would help.
http://www.ioffer.com/i/solar-battery-panel-usb-charger-for-cell-phone-mp3-mp4-147450373?source=eisi
I have no understanding of electricity, except the basic 4th grade stuff. This is a cool project thought. I'm planning on making a 55 paracord strap that will attach to my case and fit like a messenger bag. Having solar panels to charge it and a paracord strap would make the TF a nice camping device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, as discussed before, the TF uses 11-15V to charge, and normal USB chargers/backup batteries only put out 5V.
msticninja said:
Give me a link to that Li-ion battery. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, you'll need to get a lipo charger instead of/in addition to the Ramsond regulator. I'll check it out for you.
EDIT: If it's this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-6800mAh-Super-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion-Battery-/150530536976
it's hard to say, but I think it has it's own charging circuit, because the wall wart included with it doesn't look like a lithium charger. But it does have a charge finished light, so, if the light stays on when the battery isn't plugged in, you should be okay. If the green light only turns on when a fully charged battery is connected, then you might not be fine. Confirm what you're getting by posting a link, and I'll try to make sure. If it doesn't have it's own charging circuit, the battery will explode in a fireball.
EDIT2: This one has it's own charging circuit, and it sounds like it's what's inside the other one I linked, so you should be okay if it's either of these.
http://www.lunershop.com/product_info.php?language=en¤cy=USD&products_id=2566
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Fireballs are serious business...
The one I ordered is the blue one. I can't really confirm with a link since I cannot post external links until 8 posts but there shouldn't be any mistake. And it does say the following about it;
With its multi-protective device, the inner circuit pervents the box from over-recharging or over-discharging.so it should be safe I think...
Hey guys,,,,
Wanna ask something here...
I have an idea to buy a power bank/portable charger, instead of buy a spare battery.
But there are alot of choice, start from 2000mah-10000mah capacities, offerring 2-6 USB port.
Each product offered different USB port voltage and ampere.
For the example, each USB port supplying 5.3V / 5.0V and 1A / 2A / 0.8A....
Do you know which one match/compatible with our phone?
From what i remember from my physics class the should all be compatible. Cellphone battery is 4.3V, so it needs a power higher than that to be re-charged, a pc usb port usuall supplies power at 5V, whilst the A is the amount of energy let through, so the difference in A value impacts the speed at which the portable device recharges the phone battery. The same voltage carrying 1Ah reachrges the batter in half the time needed by one carrying it a 0.5A. Furthermore cell batteries have an internal chip which regulates the tension transmitted. The mAh is the total capacity of the recharging device (or toal amount of A it can store and supply over one h unit of time)
I think the the amperage of charger shouldn't be more 1.0 A. More amperage will charge the battery quickly, but will short his life.
so, I should go for 5V and something under 1.0A?
a product that nearly match those config was sanyo eneloop.
provided 2 USB port 5V and 0.5A or 2x for 1.0A.
physcodelic said:
so, I should go for 5V and something under 1.0A?
a product that nearly match those config was sanyo eneloop.
provided 2 USB port 5V and 0.5A or 2x for 1.0A.
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At spec of Sanyo Eneloop i see when you use only one of USB port and charge one device you will have charging output of 5V and 1A. When you use both ports you will have charging output of 5V and 0.5A (500mA).
tanec said:
At spec of Sanyo Eneloop i see when you use only one of USB port and charge one device you will have charging output of 5V and 1A. When you use both ports you will have charging output of 5V and 0.5A (500mA).
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I see....
Thanks for the explanation...
Maybe I should go for Sanyo, cause the other products was made by some unknown/unfamiliar brand from chinese.
Better to choose a wellknown brand right?
That's because as i explained before Amperes is the amount of energy that passes through a conductor, if a device has max output of 1A if you use two ports it will obviously split down the tension output. Amperes have nothing to do with battery life, it's not gonna do anything if you charge them faster, what matters is tension (V) which is maintained constant by the chip within the battery itself which gives the battery the 4.25V constant it needs controlled also by the cellphones internal regulatory hw. Poli-ion batteries use an impulse charge system, it's not continuative, that's why constant regular tension is important, aamof recharging the cellphone from car charger does affect negatively battery life. Poli-ion batteries if left unused have a very slow discharge rate, 1% a month, nonetheless life is shortened by about 25% after 100 full cycles and another 25% after 3-4 years of life, and they have no memory effect, so it is always best not to let the battery discharge completely ...Go for better known brand, not for the quality of the product per say but for more guarantees on support and warranty claims
Rudjgaard said:
That's because as i explained before Amperes is the amount of energy that passes through a conductor, if a device has max output of 1A if you use two ports it will obviously split down the tension output. Amperes have nothing to do with battery life, it's not gonna do anything if you charge them faster, what matters is tension (V) which is maintained constant by the chip within the battery itself which gives the battery the 4.25V constant it needs controlled also by the cellphones internal regulatory hw. Poli-ion batteries use an impulse charge system, it's not continuative, that's why constant regular tension is important, aamof recharging the cellphone from car charger does affect negatively battery life. Poli-ion batteries if left unused have a very slow discharge rate, 1% a month, nonetheless life is shortened by about 25% after 100 full cycles and another 25% after 3-4 years of life, and they have no memory effect, so it is always best not to let the battery discharge completely ...Go for better known brand, not for the quality of the product per say but for more guarantees on support and warranty claims
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I'am sorry if I can't understand your explanation fully...
So you mean higher Ampere output than original charger was safe, Am I right?
I bought already sanyo power bank, seems like a nice quality.
Charging time almost same like it was charged on PC USB port.
Thank for your complete explanation
tho I cant understand that completely (stupid me)
physcodelic said:
I see....
Thanks for the explanation...
Maybe I should go for Sanyo, cause the other products was made by some unknown/unfamiliar brand from chinese.
Better to choose a wellknown brand right?
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That is the best way. I was trying one solar charger, with included LiPo battery with 2600 mAh. The charger was with dimensions of an iphone and can charge included battery from sun and from regular USB charger. His price was something around 6-7 pounds. This kind - Portable-iphone-2600MAh-USB-Solar-Panel-Battery-Charger-for-Mobile-Phone-MP3-MP4 (search in ebay, because i'm a new user and can post links ). Included battery can keep charge for 1 full and one 70% charge of mi Xperia Mini Pro with standart 1160mAh battery. Hope this can help you. The advantages of sanyo charger is that, you can use regular AA battery that you can buy it from every where.
P.S. Sorry for my english. Hope you can understand me
your english was understandable bro
ahhh...a solar charger...will keep this in my mind.
traveling too much with smartphone will be easy with a solar charger
I dont know whats getting worst.
But whats the best replacement charger for xtz that has a higher amps? I already looked in amazon and most of it has a 2a dual and i still want to ask the community
And guys if possible please suggest those has a long data cable
---
I cant wait for the next update on XTZ, something like .67
Displa, camera, battery and some tweak, not sure.
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
arcsuser said:
I dont know whats getting worst.
But whats the best replacement charger for xtz that has a higher amps? I already looked in amazon and most of it has a 2a dual and i still want to ask the community
And guys if possible please suggest those has a long data cable
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
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I'm not saying it's the best, but I've been using an old iPad charger (2.1A) for the last 2 months without any problems. I plug the charger into a mains extension lead so I don't need a very long USB lead.
Well i have an iphone5 charger here it says output 5v---1a
Is it ok to charge thendevice with it?
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arcsuser said:
Well i have an iphone5 charger here it says output 5v---1a
Is it ok to charge thendevice with it?
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Any USB wall wart that is 1.5 amps - 2.1 amps (1500 - 2100 mA) @5 volts will work. The more amps the faster it will charge. In a pinch you could use a 1000 mA charger, it will just take longer.
Alright im confused.. Which is faster mA or A?
And by the way im not asking about the power here but a replacement.
Thanks for the infos though
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1000 Milliamps = 1 Amp
1500 mA = 1.5 A
2100 mA = 2.1 A
Pop Quiz: 5A is how many mA? _____
5000mA is how many A? _____
Often wall warts list output in milliamps
Some external batteries list output in Amps.
It's not hard to convert between the two.
dph3055 said:
1000 Milliamps = 1 Amp
1500 mA = 1.5 A
2100 mA = 2.1 A
Pop Quiz: 5A is how many mA? _____
5000mA is how many A? _____
Often wall warts list output in milliamps
Some external batteries list output in Amps.
It's not hard to convert between the two.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get it..
5000mA
5A
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arcsuser said:
I get it..
5000mA
5A
Sent from my SGP311 using xda app-developers app
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Congrats, you passed electricity 101.
Keep in mind that batteries can be fickle creatures. Sony delivers the XTZ with a 1500 mA charger. Based on that alone, it's probably best to replace the original charger with another 1500 mA charger. While you can certainly use more than 1500 mA and it will certainly charge faster, in the long run you may end up shortening the battery life. There are only so many charge cycles to be had in any given battery and quick charging can put an extra strain on a battery that wasn't manufactured to suck up power that quickly.
In a pinch, use whatever you have on hand or can find. For everyday charging, its best to default to what the manufacturer recommends.
The Apple 12W one works perfectly fine and charges the tablet so much faster!
There is people here saying it is impossible because of battery electronics.
It's quite simple: They're plain wrong.
Jequan said:
The Apple 12W one works perfectly fine and charges the tablet so much faster!
There is people here saying it is impossible because of battery electronics.
It's quite simple: They're plain wrong.
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Without doubt the best charger I've used for the money. It keeps up with battery drain on heavy use (Full HD video+Net+ others...at the same time) Stock charger does not. At first glance it does seem expensive but does the job very well.
I sent Sony a link to the Apple website for these as it's much better than the POS charger they give you with their £400 "Flagship" tablet. Well worth the £15 price tag.
Jequan said:
The Apple 12W one works perfectly fine and charges the tablet so much faster!
There is people here saying it is impossible because of battery electronics.
It's quite simple: They're plain wrong.
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Well, yes and no. Watts, Amps and Volts are all different measurements for different things and it can be quite confusing to figure out to the uninitiated. Watts is a mathematical calculation based on Ohm's Law. Watts = Volts x Amps
All USB devices accept a maximum of 5 volts. USB standards cap the max power delivered to a device @ 5 volts. Most standard USB ports deliver 5 volts @1 amp. Newer computers and specially designed charging ports can and do deliver more than 1 A via USB but they all deliver a maximum of 5 volts.
12 watts divided by 5 volts = 2.4A
If you look at your charger you'll see the output amps listed as 2.1A or 2100 mA.
Sony's included charger only delivers 1.5A or 1500mA, so yes it charges slower and when the tablet is under high load, has a hard time keeping the battery at 100%.
The real concern here, is what effect does delivering 2.1A of current to the battery day after day have on the useful life expectancy of that battery? I don't know the answer because I don't know anything about the battery that Sony uses. It's possible, if Sony, used a top quality battery, that charging with 2.1A will have no effect at all and Sony just wanted to save a buck or two by including a weaker charger in the box. On the other hand, Sony may have deliberately used a battery designed to accept 1.5A and included an appropriate charger.
As I said in a post above, apart from the battery overheating while charging (if it wasn't designed to charge @ 2.1A) and a reduced useful life of the battery, there shouldn't be any real problem using a "slightly" more powerful charger - up to a point. Charge with too many amps and the battery will probably explode or at the very least melt, potentially causing a fire if left unattended.
When talking to Sony, the question you need to ask, "Is the battery rated for 2.1A or only 1.5A?"
dph3055 said:
Well, yes and no. Watts, Amps and Volts are all different measurements for different things and it can be quite confusing to figure out to the uninitiated. Watts is a mathematical calculation based on Ohm's Law. Watts = Volts x Amps
All USB devices accept a maximum of 5 volts. USB standards cap the max power delivered to a device @ 5 volts. Most standard USB ports deliver 5 volts @1 amp. Newer computers and specially designed charging ports can and do deliver more than 1 A via USB but they all deliver a maximum of 5 volts.
12 watts divided by 5 volts = 2.4A
If you look at your charger you'll see the output amps listed as 2.1A or 2100 mA.
Sony's included charger only delivers 1.5A or 1500mA, so yes it charges slower and when the tablet is under high load, has a hard time keeping the battery at 100%.
The real concern here, is what effect does delivering 2.1A of current to the battery day after day have on the useful life expectancy of that battery? I don't know the answer because I don't know anything about the battery that Sony uses. It's possible, if Sony, used a top quality battery, that charging with 2.1A will have no effect at all and Sony just wanted to save a buck or two by including a weaker charger in the box. On the other hand, Sony may have deliberately used a battery designed to accept 1.5A and included an appropriate charger.
As I said in a post above, apart from the battery overheating while charging (if it wasn't designed to charge @ 2.1A) and a reduced useful life of the battery, there shouldn't be any real problem using a "slightly" more powerful charger - up to a point. Charge with too many amps and the battery will probably explode or at the very least melt, potentially causing a fire if left unattended.
When talking to Sony, the question you need to ask, "Is the battery rated for 2.1A or only 1.5A?"
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That i can agree with and it's a risk i am willing to take. There is people who say the 2.1A charger wont affect charging time in a positive way at all. That's what what i refered to when i said it's not true.
Jequan said:
That i can agree with and it's a risk i am willing to take. There is people who say the 2.1A charger wont affect charging time in a positive way at all. That's what what i refered to when i said it's not true.
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Definitely. More current (which is what Amps measure) means faster charge times, as long as what is being charged can accept the current being provided. You should be fine, but what do I know. PM me in six months and let me know if your battery still last a reasonable amount of time - then we'll know.
dph3055 said:
Well, yes and no. Watts, Amps and Volts are all different measurements for different things and it can be quite confusing to figure out to the uninitiated. Watts is a mathematical calculation based on Ohm's Law. Watts = Volts x Amps
All USB devices accept a maximum of 5 volts. USB standards cap the max power delivered to a device @ 5 volts. Most standard USB ports deliver 5 volts @1 amp. Newer computers and specially designed charging ports can and do deliver more than 1 A via USB but they all deliver a maximum of 5 volts.
12 watts divided by 5 volts = 2.4A
If you look at your charger you'll see the output amps listed as 2.1A or 2100 mA.
Sony's included charger only delivers 1.5A or 1500mA, so yes it charges slower and when the tablet is under high load, has a hard time keeping the battery at 100%.
The real concern here, is what effect does delivering 2.1A of current to the battery day after day have on the useful life expectancy of that battery? I don't know the answer because I don't know anything about the battery that Sony uses. It's possible, if Sony, used a top quality battery, that charging with 2.1A will have no effect at all and Sony just wanted to save a buck or two by including a weaker charger in the box. On the other hand, Sony may have deliberately used a battery designed to accept 1.5A and included an appropriate charger.
As I said in a post above, apart from the battery overheating while charging (if it wasn't designed to charge @ 2.1A) and a reduced useful life of the battery, there shouldn't be any real problem using a "slightly" more powerful charger - up to a point. Charge with too many amps and the battery will probably explode or at the very least melt, potentially causing a fire if left unattended.
When talking to Sony, the question you need to ask, "Is the battery rated for 2.1A or only 1.5A?"
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Click to collapse
You're kinda right, but kinda not....
The charging circuitry inside the tablet is what regulates the charging current, not the 'charger', it will have min and max currents (the thing we plug into the wall that we all call a charger, is really just a power supply, there's no charging circuitry inside it.) That's why it doesn't charge from a standard usb port (which is 500mA) so, if it's charging faster with a 2.1A power supply, then it's obviously designed to do so.
Let's say, for example, the tab can accept a charging current of between 700mA-2.5A. Obviously, the charge time will be slower at 700mA than 2.5A, however, if you were to plug in a 5A power supply, the charging circuitry in the tablet will still only draw the 2.5A its designed to. So, don't worry about giving it too much, it's not possible.
Now, I don't know what the min and max charge currents are, but I can tell you that mine will charge (very slowly) from a 700mA LG charger.
And also, the dock for the tablet states an input of 1800mA,
So, we can assume the min is at least 700mA and the max is at least 1800.
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technaudio,
That's my age showing. Back before some smart guy invented the wheel, we gave a device power and if we gave too much a fuse would blow. I didn't mean to imply that the charging circuit was contained in the wall plug but at the same time, I failed to appreciate that the Tab was designed to prevent an over current situation.
...now let's see what happens when I give this puppy 15A AC...damn, melted the usb cable...
@dph3055
I knew what you meant, but some others on here probably wouldn't.
I've seen a lot of threads saying using a 'too powerful' charger will damage the battery.
It just won't.
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