hi folks,
i;m starting to get into a bit of astrophotography after being a bit of a star gazer for many years.
I;m currently using a crappy usb vid camera with the lense popped out attached to the eyepiece of my telescope for capturing images and then stacking them with registax, to get a half decent image of the moon etc.
however the usb cam needs plugging in to my laptop when in use and its a complete ballache carrying the laptop around and balancing that and trying to set up the telescope etc.
The camera on the atrix is pretty damn good, plus it saves the pictures to the removable card and therefore doesnt need plugging in to my laptop when in use and is just so much easier to manage! It can also easily be attached to my scope with a gorilla mount.
BUT - one big problem......
I dont want to dismantle the flippin thing and take the lense out to expose the ccd, but i do need to negate the fact it has a lense / autofocus so that when i get it all setup and click, it doesnt just take a picture of a big white blob (currently thats all it does, even if you get the focus perfect on the preview screen!) I;ve found the setting to set it to "infinity", but the bloomin thing still tries to focus itself and stop letting me do it via the telescope! its too clever for its own good sometimes and it should just trust me!
any help on this would be brilliant, as potentially this is a much easier and more powerful way of taking photos with my scope.
cheers
nick
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Related
Hi,
has anybody tried this out already? Any feedback?
Looks quite interessting, will buy it in the next couple of days, I guess.
Best regards
johnpatcher
I've got one made by 3M which I bought off Amazon. It is very fiddly to get on and off and line up with the lens. A clamp spring keeps coming out so can't clamp it onto the phone easily. The position of the lens on the Blackstone is such that the clamp presses onto the volume button and the clamp is not secure on the phone as it has to protrude over the top of the phone above the lens. When I tried to take pictures using the zoom to maximum the result was a picture with a part black round circle around it. You could crop the circle out of the picture but then you are left with a small photo.
I've quickly done something with telescope and without attached for you to assess. It takes a long time to get it lined up correctly because the lens it too high on the Blackstone.
Actually it looks like that Brando one may fit better as it does not have clamps like the one I've got. I see it has a separate back that will work much better than the one I have. Will be interested to hear how you go with it if you get one.
Hm, not really amazing results at all . Have you noticed any better results without any zoom, or is this telescope just good for zooming in?
johnpatcher said:
Hm, not really amazing results at all . Have you noticed any better results without any zoom, or is this telescope just good for zooming in?
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Everything is a blur without zoom so only for zooming really.
Many many thanks for the infos....
You just answered all my unanswered questions about this gamepad...
Oredering it soon.....
what a great bunch of add-ons.
I may consider buying it, so I can turn my HD into a professional camera like the Nikon D900 or a Canon EOS.
lollized!
alixoft said:
what a great bunch of add-ons.
I may consider buying it, so I can turn my HD into a professional camera like the Nikon D900 or a Canon EOS.
lollized!
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Ordering it now from Ebay.
Should get it within 2 weeks.
I think I didn't do any picture in low light with flash on which didn't make the red-eye effect on people.
I think it starts to really be an issue. I know there is software to remove the redeye effect, but it's definitely not the same as not having the red-eye to begin with. I didn't had this issue with the S2 that I still own.
What do you guys think? Do you find this red-eye an issue or not? Why didn't Nokia test this and just put the flash a little bit further away from the camera lens?
You have to put the flash a long way away from the lens to avoid red eye. But with LED flashes it's not such a problem as they can stay on long enough for the eye to settle down.
can you post an example?
Not a major issue for me. The ones I do get red eye issues, like you mentioned creative studio red eye fix works ok
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express
Ok, here are some examples:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wkz4k560m1zwm04/02gZfV5c27
Of course it's not a dealbraker, yes you can use creative studio, and it makes a good job removing them, but you end up with the corrected images in saved images, instead of camera roll, so it's not a very fluent user experience..
@gilesjuk so you're saying if they program the flash to stay on a little bit longer the red-eye effect won't be so noticeable? That would seem a quick fix for them to do, but for them to bother about this we have to say to them that this is really an issue for us...
shumilica said:
Ok, here are some examples:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wkz4k560m1zwm04/02gZfV5c27
Of course it's not a dealbraker, yes you can use creative studio, and it makes a good job removing them, but you end up with the corrected images in saved images, instead of camera roll, so it's not a very fluent user experience..
@gilesjuk so you're saying if they program the flash to stay on a little bit longer the red-eye effect won't be so noticeable? That would seem a quick fix for them to do, but for them to bother about this we have to say to them that this is really an issue for us...
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Click to collapse
the only ways to avoid redeye is to move the flash so that light bouncing out of the back of the eye doesn't hit the sensor
red eye reduction is accomplished by making the subject's iris constrict to a pinpoint by either (1) pre-blindng them with a flash before taking the photo - this is typical for P&S red-eye reduction, or (2) if using an LED flash just have the flash come on a bit early to do the same thing. The iris reacts "slowly" by digital camera standards...
If you take multiple shots one right after the other with flash, only the first will likely have redeye - you could try just taking back to back shots ...
I cannot get this damn camera to macro focus on anything. I came from a Droid Charge, which actually has a fantastic camera, and this one is disappointing to me. There is a lot of noise, and switching apps didn't seem to help that, but I could live with that if I could get the stupid thing to focus on what I wanted. I can tap the screen and it still won't switch focus to the thing closest to the phone. It won't even focus on something as simple as a Coke can right in front of the camera, but everything behind it is in perfect focus. Please help! I'd like a phone camera that can take a decent picture at least as good as my Charge, this one is terrible so far though.
yeah I've noticed that macro focus isn't that great on the dna. hve you tried macro mode? it helps a bit. I noticed that to focus on something small you can't be right up next to it.. you have to pull back for it to focus right.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Definitely tried every mode there is on the thing. Even tried the Camera 360 app everyone says is better. I was trying to take a close up picture of a completed lego building probably about as big as both your fists together on a table. The phone would not focus on that object. Would not. Not even moving the phone itself farther back. But everything in the background was in perfect focus. Dumbest thing I've ever seen. Picked up the Charge (I just gave it to my mom to use) and took a perfect picture on the first try, even without macro mode.
If that's the best the DNA camera can do I might have to explore other devices. I REALLY don't want another Samsung phone because they're terrible, but the one good thing about that Charge was the camera. I'm disappointed to say the least. Hopefully they can fix something like that in an update, I'll be sending an email to Verizon and HTC about it. I might even stop by a Verizon store to do a side by side test with another one and exchange if it's better. I was super excited to get this phone, but not even being able to use it in quick point-and-shoot situations is a deal breaker.
I'm in Ultra/Note3/One Max keep changing my mind mode at the moment. Bought myself a cheap gel case for the Ultra off eBay to practice does it fit in my pocket scenarios lol.
Anyway, don't know why, but for some reason, I've always been fond of things like mega powerful or really small key torches. One of those things you feel like you should buy/keep handy just in-case even though you don't really need it. Must be the kid in me...
So, given the lack of flash... I was wondering how well taking low light photos would work using one of those mini (run on an AA battery) type torches with along with the phone. They typically sell for a few quid, attach to a keyfob etc. You can get even smaller single LED ones that run off button type batteries, but I'm assuming these would be too underpowered.
Would using an external LED torch result in images similar to an inbuilt 'Flash' (actually just LED, not really a flash...) or are there other factors that mean it just wouldn't be the same ?
How many lumens or whatever does a typical led flash pump out. Is the brightness controlled as part of the exposure process, or is it just switched on due to low lighting and exposure decided afterwards ?
Zuber said:
I'm in Ultra/Note3/One Max keep changing my mind mode at the moment. Bought myself a cheap gel case for the Ultra off eBay to practice does it fit in my pocket scenarios lol.
Anyway, don't know why, but for some reason, I've always been fond of things like mega powerful or really small key torches. One of those things you feel like you should buy/keep handy just in-case even though you don't really need it. Must be the kid in me...
So, given the lack of flash... I was wondering how well taking low light photos would work using one of those mini (run on an AA battery) type torches with along with the phone. They typically sell for a few quid, attach to a keyfob etc. You can get even smaller single LED ones that run off button type batteries, but I'm assuming these would be too underpowered.
Would using an external LED torch result in images similar to an inbuilt 'Flash' (actually just LED, not really a flash...) or are there other factors that mean it just wouldn't be the same ?
How many lumens or whatever does a typical led flash pump out. Is the brightness controlled as part of the exposure process, or is it just switched on due to low lighting and exposure decided afterwards ?
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Click to collapse
A strobe light (light from your device) - Will use less power and will capture motion better, will have deeper and richer colours.
Always on lights - The good thing is, what you see is what you get. Using a torch or external power source, you'll know and see exactly what you'll be taking an image of. However you will also need to mess with ISO to capture an equal quality image as opposed to strobe. (motion blur)
- Using an app that can do this will require A LOT of time fiddling, and may lose the moment... But the end result could enable a better quality image.
If you can get a very bright external light source then it will be better than the LED on a phone.
Phone LED are about 50-70 lumen... hope this helps...
Check this out iblazr.com! Iblazr can be in a good use!
Sorry, I wonder if I done anything wrong posting this. If yes pls delete for me admin. Sorry!
trinityb4 said:
Check this out iblazr.com! Iblazr can be in a good use!
Sorry, I wonder if I done anything wrong posting this. If yes pls delete for me admin. Sorry!
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Yes, Saw that.
So my question would be how would it compare to using a torch. Maybe with a diffusing material on it ?
By the way, plenty of cheap small waterproof torches around.
My main concern would be trying to take a photo with the giant Z Ultra with one hand and shining the torch with the other .....
RaindancerAU said:
My main concern would be trying to take a photo with the giant Z Ultra with one hand and shining the torch with the other .....
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Don't think that would be an issue. We are talking small 1xAA torch, so torch is abot the size of your finger. Should be easy enough handle at same time as the phone if using both hands.
Zuber said:
Don't think that would be an issue. We are talking small 1xAA torch, so torch is abot the size of your finger. Should be easy enough handle at same time as the phone if using both hands.
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I'm not sure ... I have enough problems taking a photo one handed with my Galaxy Nexus you see ....
I'm probably going to get a Honami as well anyway , so the Z Ultra will probably not need to perform many camera duties anyway and it wouldn't be for very long.
It's better to use filter of camera then having weird torch with Giant Smartphone,i really disappointed with camera(also lake of led flash) but now i mostly use filter in low light conditions, just my experience.
Sent from Public Toilet
Hey guys, wat you think about this: http://www.microphonelens.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nnSdjcxYm8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt4Iq7SUbcA
I liked, anybody here bought it yet?
Intriguing...
Sent from my SM-N900V
well macro on the note 3 sadly just plain SUCKS hard core. SO ordered. will post pics vid review once I get it I LOVE shooting macro
Keep us updated!
Sent from my SM-N900T using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
In general, problems with macros are: it's hard to get enough light, very shallow focus, hard to hand held without shake and with x15 magnification, probably a lot of distortion, so I would be surprised if it worked well, but sure, let us know how it comes out.
Looks like a lens pickup from a cd drive. These were used in projects for the iphones for the same purposes to.
Holding still enough locating the spot you want, adjusting height is frustrating unless you have a stand for it.
The it's unlike to be matched to the notes cam, so either you use only part of the sensor or the lense ...... just the usual problems with optics.
and how often can you safely de-/attach it, how do you center it.
I bought for fun a 40x microscope addon for ~3€ with whiteh/UV LED, and thats why I wrote the above.
Use of similar lenses of defect CD-drives have been described for the iphones.
snn47 said:
Looks like a lens pickup from a cd drive. These were used in projects for the iphones for the same purposes to.
Holding still enough locating the spot you want, adjusting height is frustrating unless you have a stand for it.
The it's unlike to be matched to the notes cam, so either you use only part of the sensor or the lense ...... just the usual problems with optics.
and how often can you safely de-/attach it, how do you center it.
I bought for fun a 40x microscope addon for ~3€ with whiteh/UV LED, and thats why I wrote the above.
Use of similar lenses of defect CD-drives have been described for the iphones.
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That's exactly what it is, an acrylic asphere used for cd/dvd players. The collimator from a dollar store laser pointer should work as well.