Hello,
I have a Nook Tablet, 16GB model, that I received during the 2011 holiday. This summer, about 4 months ago, it stopped turning on.
I have flashed it with CM7 Alpha from CelticWebSolutions, but that was at least a month before it stopped working. CM7 ran fine while it was working. There is no physical damage to the device. The Tablet does not even get warm when plugged in and the screen does not turn on. Windows does make a noise when the device is plugged in but nothing is recognized.
I am not sure what other information I can give. I would have posted this immediately to the forums if I was not so preoccupied this summer. All help and advice is greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Not to be super obvious, but have you tried holding in the power for 20 seconds? Then plugging it into the wall charger and letting it sit all night?
Sent from my Slider SL101
Thank you Solar.Plexus,
I had tried charging overnight, and holding down power for 20 seconds. However, your post had me think of trying the stock nook cable - the one with the extra pins. I charged overnight and sure enough, it worked!
Now, when I try a microusb cable to charge, it still works. Why would a microusb cable still not charge the device before, but does now? What could the extra pins have possibly done?
Anyway it is working now. I am sorry if this post has polluted the forum. Please remove if necessary.
HighBomber said:
Thank you Solar.Plexus,
I had tried charging overnight, and holding down power for 20 seconds. However, your post had me think of trying the stock nook cable - the one with the extra pins. I charged overnight and sure enough, it worked!
Now, when I try a microusb cable to charge, it still works. Why would a microusb cable still not charge the device before, but does now? What could the extra pins have possibly done?
Anyway it is working now. I am sorry if this post has polluted the forum. Please remove if necessary.
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Click to collapse
No sweat about polluting the forum -- this is the place for Q's and A's...
There's some really good information about the B&N cable located in this thread from the Accessories forum (look at post 17 in particular) http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1386602 that can probably answer your questions better than I can.
HighBomber said:
Thank you Solar.Plexus,
I had tried charging overnight, and holding down power for 20 seconds. However, your post had me think of trying the stock nook cable - the one with the extra pins. I charged overnight and sure enough, it worked!
Now, when I try a microusb cable to charge, it still works. Why would a microusb cable still not charge the device before, but does now? What could the extra pins have possibly done?
Anyway it is working now. I am sorry if this post has polluted the forum. Please remove if necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FWIW - The B&N USB cable has the extra pins because it provides a higher charge rate (more current) that the USB "standard" allows. In theory, a standard USB connection should charge the Nook, but it will take much longer. I'm wondering if the Nook was so discharged that the charge circuit wasn't being triggered by your USB connection. Was it your PC or an external charger? It's also possible that your USB connection voltage is too low. A fairly common problem. My Droid X is really picky about charge voltage.
From feeble memory, B&N charger = 1 Amp or 1000mA. USB = 500mA max.
wellersl said:
FWIW - The B&N USB cable has the extra pins because it provides a higher charge rate (more current) that the USB "standard" allows. In theory, a standard USB connection should charge the Nook, but it will take much longer. I'm wondering if the Nook was so discharged that the charge circuit wasn't being triggered by your USB connection. Was it your PC or an external charger? It's also possible that your USB connection voltage is too low. A fairly common problem. My Droid X is really picky about charge voltage.
From feeble memory, B&N charger = 1 Amp or 1000mA. USB = 500mA max.
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Click to collapse
Thanks, wellersl. This summer I had tried charging overnight with my regular microusb cable, which I believe came off of a wall charger. Before my Nook died, I had last charged it on the road using the same USB cable, but with a car to usb adapter. You have a good theory, though. I hope if anyone runs into the same problem, they will find these posts and try out the stock cable. I never like to use it because it is incompatible with other devices while using up a USB port.
I have been using my Nook most of the day. I updated CM7 and have done a factory reset - all on battery. After roughly 6 hours on battery it says I have 81% battery left. I am hoping the battery life has not been negatively effected by a full drain and four months of neglect.
It has the extended pins because B&N wants to make money and proprietary cables enable this. It has nothing to do with the amount of current that can be pushed.
For reference, my stock galaxy nexus charger pushes 5V at 1amp.
Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2
Cubanluke88 said:
It has the extended pins because B&N wants to make money and proprietary cables enable this. It has nothing to do with the amount of current that can be pushed.
For reference, my stock galaxy nexus charger pushes 5V at 1amp.
Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2
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Allow me to correct myself. The B&N charger is rated 5V @ 1900mA (Mine is, anyway.).
Anyway, I'll have to respectfully agree and disagree. Certainly B&N is in it to make a buck. But there's more to it than that. And I'll be among the first to point out the FUD that's been posted all over the web *because * of that proprietary cable.
Standards are wonderful. There are so many from which to choose.
Related
Went to sleep last night with my Atrix plugged in as I normally have had all my phones, was playing with it right before I went to sleep and everything worked just fine, woke up this morning and the phone will not power on!
First tried to power it on unplugged and the green light flashed for 2 seconds, and nothing happened. Okay, weird, but I'll go with it. Plugged it in, and the green light stays on now until I press the power button! Once pressed, it flashes off, flashes on for 2 seconds and stays off. Nice. I thought the green light meant it was fully charged - when I woke up this morning, it had no green light on, but it was plugged in just fine all night - grabbed my Jawbone ERA and plugged it in to the charger I had the Atrix connected to and it started charging right away, so I know it works....
Pulled the battery, tried plugging it in and power it on without the battery. Nothing. Tried putting in the battery and plugging it in again to "jump start it" as I had done yesterday when I first got it - apparently you can't just charge the thing when connected to a laptop if the phone is off, it will power on even if you power it off again! Nothing.
What the hell happened in it's sleep? I KNOW rooting it didn't cause sleep death.... This thing doesn't have a custom ROM or any undervoltage adjustments, so why the hell is it acting up??? Damnit, right when I got EVERYTHING set up the way I wanted it too.... can't bring it in to the store and give it up with all my personal stuff on there now, I need this thing to power on to wipe it first!!! I'm leaving it connected to the laptop with the green light on for a while and will see what happens in an hour or so....
EDIT - just searched for and tried to hard reset the phone from this thread, the phone still won't even power on to get to the recovery screen!!!
UPDATE - see below and use the SUPPLIED Moto AC charger or at least one with over 5.0V - NOT a PC and NOT a USB hub!
use the charger that came with the phone. My old HTC ones won't charge the phone for some reason. I bet your battery is just dead.
Did you use the provided charger? I tried plugging my Atrix in to the charger I used for my N1, and found that it did not provide enough current. With the old charger, after the phone died, I had similar symptoms where the green light would flash but phone would not come on. Plugged it in with the Moto provided charger, and 5 minutes later all was good...
I had the same problem. Thought I was gonna have to take it back to the store. I don't know what the problem was but I took the battery out for 5 minutes. Then I plugged it into the wall charger(wouldn't work with PC). I didn't turn it on for 30 min, just left it on the charger. Then I hit the volume rocker and it showed the battery charging symbol which it didn't do before. And then I was able to power it on
Same thing here. I purposely drained my battery on the first use. Plugged the usb cable into the PC and nothing. Same blinking green light with no response. I also thought I'd have to return the phone. Then for S & Gs I plugged it into the wall charger and it came to life. Once I got the battery charged a little bit I plugged it into the PC and it started to charge again. Don't know why, but it worked.
Have been running around the house trying to find valid outlets, and that does indeed appear to be the problem. I found it out the hard way though, should have kept an eye on the thread - used a power outlet instead of a PC USB connection and the screen fired right up! Yes, the phone showed the battery with 0% in it, but at least the screen finally came on!
How I have my phone set up normally is connected to my charging valet on my dresser, connected with a 15 foot USB cable that plugs directly into my desktop. Since the extension is good for just one USB connection, I have that connected to a USB hub and then a MicroUSB cable connects my phone from there. The Captivate, and all the other phones I've ever used, not to mention my Zune and Jawbone ERA, all eat that up and have no issues since the USB hub is powered not by the computer (seven USB cables is just too many for a single PC connection) but by the power outlet in the charging valet. I wonder if the hub is distributing the power requirement for each device and the Atrix needs more than others.
I also figured out that the Moto charger has a 5.1V output on it, as does my Jawbone AC charger. Now I need to start making sure that my each one of my chargers in the cars I own has that same type amount of juice too! You go up 29% in battery capacity and so do the requirements to charge it, huh?
Thanks for all the help, marking this SOLVED....
I used the charger in my bedroom that I've used for the Captivate and others before it and it didn't provide enough juice to charge the Atrix. It quickly switched between charging and not charging. I still had 40% battery showing when I woke up though which was nice. It had been off of charge since 10am yesterday.
Plugged it into an HTC charger and it's fine. The one that didn't work is not a modular charger so the power cord is hard wired to the plug.
Alright, a quick update.... Got the phone charged to 100% while it was off and plugged into the AC outlet with the Moto charger. Put my SIM card back in it - couldn't be without a phone all day! - and fired up the Atrix. Went to Battery Info to see what the status is and while plugged into my USB hub, it says
Battery Status: Discharging
Power plug: USB
....
Battery Voltage: 4124 mV (or 4.124V)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What the hell? Then I went right after that and plugged it into the Moto AC charger, it says:
Battery Status: Full
Power plug: AC
....
Battery Voltage: 4207 mV (or 4.207V)
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Click to collapse
Why are POWERED USB hubs and PCs not strong enough to charge the phone? I tried ALL my outlets in my vehicles just now and they ALL show full battery status and plugged into AC! Who screwed this up????
GarciaM25 said:
Why are POWERED USB hubs and PCs not strong enough to charge the phone? I tried ALL my outlets in my vehicles just now and they ALL show full battery status and plugged into AC! Who screwed this up????
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Did you download the PC Charging Drivers that Motorola requires you to have in order to charge via PC and USB cable? If not, look here.
Battleship said:
Did you download the PC Charging Drivers that Motorola requires you to have in order to charge via PC and USB cable? If not, look here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait, you have to have specific drivers on the PC so that the phone will allow a power cable (let's not even worry about it being a USB cable for a second) to charge the phone properly? I have the Motorola Media Link software installed, and that has a ton of drivers on it, that wasn't enough? MORE drivers are required to charge a cell phone? This is madness!
Sorry about the necromancy, but had this problem myself but it is NOT due to a lack of voltage. Thought I'd actually solve this, the problem is CURRENT.
USB2 ports will only ever supply 500ma which simply isn't enough to charge the atrix when it's dead. USB2 powered hubs won't supply any more than this either to meet the USB2 spec. The fact that the AC adapter works is because they tend to have a higher output current in the region of 1-2 amps (you may notice the phone, or any other device for that matter, charges faster with AC adapters for this reason).
On a similar note, cheap car chargers only output 500ma. I know with my desire I can have it plugged in and it charges, but if I use GPS it actually draws more current than it can charge at resulting in the battery draining (albeit, slowly).
So, make sure you have a higher current AC/Car charger, or alternatively, plug it into a USB3 port to charge as USB3 spec allows 900ma (some mobos output up to 1A) which is enough to charge the Atrix.
Stewge said:
Sorry about the necromancy, but had this problem myself but it is NOT due to a lack of voltage. Thought I'd actually solve this, the problem is CURRENT.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, no problem, if there's something I misstated, then please, correct it!
Stewge said:
So, make sure you have a higher current AC/Car charger, or alternatively, plug it into a USB3 port to charge as USB3 spec allows 900ma (some mobos output up to 1A) which is enough to charge the Atrix.
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Click to collapse
Not sure about this..... It's been about a year since I got all my USB3.0 gear, and I was super excited about it because I thought that my phone would charge ridiculously fast because of the added output, but I remember reading that 3.0 uses extra pins and those pins account for the added voltage and bandwidth of the cable - we don't have those extra pins when you step down from 3.0 to 2.0, so we lose the ability to charge devices faster as a result. I don't know if I actually proved that theory, but after I read up enough on it, I thought I just didn't have to with that knowledge..... again, correct me if I'm wrong, I've got a lot of 3.0 gear here!!!
GarciaM25 said:
Not sure about this..... It's been about a year since I got all my USB3.0 gear, and I was super excited about it because I thought that my phone would charge ridiculously fast because of the added output, but I remember reading that 3.0 uses extra pins and those pins account for the added voltage and bandwidth of the cable - we don't have those extra pins when you step down from 3.0 to 2.0, so we lose the ability to charge devices faster as a result. I don't know if I actually proved that theory, but after I read up enough on it, I thought I just didn't have to with that knowledge..... again, correct me if I'm wrong, I've got a lot of 3.0 gear here!!!
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Click to collapse
There are indeed extra pins in the USB3 standard but these are to transmit data only. The original USB2 data pins are only there for legacy support and USB3 transmissions use the extra lines. There's still only the 1 VBUS pin which supplies the +5V power. There's also no harm in offering higher current on the connection as a device will only ever draw as much current as it needs until it tops out the supplier, not the other way round
EDIT: Another solution could be to use a splitter cable (common with 2.5" drives)so you can draw from 2 ports, but with a micro connector. I've never actually seen one with USB micro but a quick look on ebay says they do exist
nsaia said:
Same thing here. I purposely drained my battery on the first use. Plugged the usb cable into the PC and nothing. Same blinking green light with no response. I also thought I'd have to return the phone. Then for S & Gs I plugged it into the wall charger and it came to life. Once I got the battery charged a little bit I plugged it into the PC and it started to charge again. Don't know why, but it worked.
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Hi, can I know that when you plug it into the wall charger, is there any light on? Mine has no light on when plug to wall charger. But I can get the light green when plug into PC USB. Can you share that?
cscmf99 said:
Hi, can I know that when you plug it into the wall charger, is there any light on? Mine has no light on when plug to wall charger. But I can get the light green when plug into PC USB. Can you share that?
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This is the exact same issue that I am facing now. Did you ever manage to find a solution for this problem?
atrix 4g not coming on
Is there any real fix to this issue i have search high and low and all i am seeing people talking about the battery id dead ... i have two battery that is fully charger and the phone still not coming up.
Hi all, sorry that im posting after two years ago but i am facing exactly the same problem, but i plugged it in my USB port, wich i think its a usb2, and i got the screen on but the cellphone did not say charging instead of that was connect your charger, and it was lower than 3% then it turned off. What can it be a solution??
None of the avobe solutions worked?
Which rom/kernel are you using?
I too have this same issue. My Atrix won't come on. I have 2 of the same phone. I tried the charger and cable from both phones. Neither work. When I first plug it it, the green light comes on for a few seconds then it goes out. I even opened the phone and removed the battery. Used a voltage tested and found my battery has 3.7 volts. Thats almost 100% charge. So it not a problem of power. I plugged the phone to my computer and same green light for a few seconds then gone. Won't do anything. No battery display or anything. I even did the simulated battery removal procedure. Didn't work. Is there anything else I can try? Can't get to recovery mode without display unless someone has a fix for that?
Greetings Devs.
I found this software which promises to charge i products faster. So why not the nook? I know it works with the ipad/iphone/itouch, but not the NC (or anything else for that matter). I was looking in the ini file and managed to match up the class id of each product, and then I found the id for the NC and added this line:
HKLM, System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{3f966bd9-fa04-4ec5-991c-d326973b5128}, LowerFilters, %REG_MULTI_SZ_APPEND%, AiCharger
To both the install and uninstall filter. However, I cannot tell if it pushes extra power to just the ipad, or if it does to all of them.
Ideas? Tried digging around the sys file in hex, but nothing found. I think it would be nice if we could boost output a bit
USB Standard is 500mAh. If you somehow force your port to deliver more power you could fry it.
khaytsus said:
USB Standard is 500mAh. If you somehow force your port to deliver more power you could fry it.
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Well yeah, but no one is at least curious if this could help out at all? Maybe hardware manufactures cap it @ 5V, .5A and they override it? Maybe it provides a steadier draw somehow? Maybe they draw more power from the rails for powered-usb slots?
ace7196 said:
Well yeah, but no one is at least curious if this could help out at all? Maybe hardware manufactures cap it @ 5V, .5A and they override it? Maybe it provides a steadier draw somehow? Maybe they draw more power from the rails for powered-usb slots?
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Charging more than 500ma through the USB hardware is bad.
Lithium batteries charge at full amperage over the entire charge cycle, and just turn off the charge when they hit a certain voltage (~3.6v per cell on lipo IIRC?)
I don't think there is anything you can do from the computer side unless it tells the device itself to pull the full 500ma when it would try to pull less (for fear of overloading a USB interface, as there are usually 2 ports per USB port on a computer (IIRC.)
IMO, just use a powered USB hub?
Winmo custom roms had a quick-charge feature built in to a lot of them.
I don't think anyone fried anything.
This thread belongs in QnA though unless the op is actually developing something.
Did any naysayers even bother to look at the link? It is for Asus brand mobos only. And only certain ones are supported. Surely Asus isn't going to release an app that would fry the port...
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA App
lafester said:
Winmo custom roms had a quick-charge feature built in to a lot of them.
I don't think anyone fried anything.
This thread belongs in QnA though unless the op is actually developing something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thinking of developing the software for it...
Syco54645 said:
Did any naysayers even bother to look at the link? It is for Asus brand mobos only. And only certain ones are supported. Surely Asus isn't going to release an app that would fry the port...
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA App
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As pointed out here, this is not JUST simply software. This is the software portion of a hardware feature on Asus motherboards. The boards have a separate controller in them that allows more amperage to specific USB ports for the purpose of charging particular, high amperage items (ipad, iphone) only. As also stated here, the USB standard is a fixed 5V .5A and this isn't something that can simply be modified via software as the controllers themselves would have problems managing higher draws (not really the physical ports).
The only application this would have would be to users with those specific boards IF the software can be hacked to allow that amperage on the Nook. It may also be worth mentioning that the Nook's internal connector is different and the higher power provided by the wall charger is not over the standard USB VCC pins on the connector. I'm not familiar enough with the wiring inside the device to say for certain, but the standard charge connections from USB may be a different path than the wall charger on a charge controller.
Quick Edit: This actually doesn't appear to be the same as their hardware specific version, which most likely makes it even less useful. It looks like this enables charging in multiple standby modes and most likely forces the port to full amperage; which is typically only done after the device negotiates with the system, initial port power is much lower. My device manager shows the Nook pulling it's full 500mA already, so unless you're trying to do a lot of charging while your computer is in standby, this isn't gonna be of much use.
Edit 2: Quick bounce around the internet shows this app as causing a bit of instability and BSODs. May not be everyone, so if you're still testing this let us know if you're stable.
Infraded said:
As pointed out here, this is not JUST simply software. This is the software portion of a hardware feature on Asus motherboards. The boards have a separate controller in them that allows more amperage to specific USB ports for the purpose of charging particular, high amperage items (ipad, iphone) only. As also stated here, the USB standard is a fixed 5V .5A and this isn't something that can simply be modified via software as the controllers themselves would have problems managing higher draws (not really the physical ports).
The only application this would have would be to users with those specific boards IF the software can be hacked to allow that amperage on the Nook. It may also be worth mentioning that the Nook's internal connector is different and the higher power provided by the wall charger is not over the standard USB VCC pins on the connector. I'm not familiar enough with the wiring inside the device to say for certain, but the standard charge connections from USB may be a different path than the wall charger on a charge controller.
Quick Edit: This actually doesn't appear to be the same as their hardware specific version, which most likely makes it even less useful. It looks like this enables charging in multiple standby modes and most likely forces the port to full amperage; which is typically only done after the device negotiates with the system, initial port power is much lower. My device manager shows the Nook pulling it's full 500mA already, so unless you're trying to do a lot of charging while your computer is in standby, this isn't gonna be of much use.
Edit 2: Quick bounce around the internet shows this app as causing a bit of instability and BSODs. May not be everyone, so if you're still testing this let us know if you're stable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to use the nook's cable to quick charge. I believe it's the same on the USB side but different on the NC side.
Thanks Infraded for the helpful reply. I did a quick search and it seemed it caused more trouble than it's worth (BSOD, etc). I'll dig deeper.
I had the same issues with my iPad. If your motherboard vendor supports it, they have a BIOS update that adjusts the USB ports to charge things like the Nook and iPad.
khaytsus said:
USB Standard is 500mAh. If you somehow force your port to deliver more power you could fry it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some dell laptops (my 5400 has it) have an option in bios for USB Power Share, where they allow USB devices which know if they are connected to to wall chargers or USB plugs to charge as if they were on wall chargers.
Its epic win.
In the NC teardown, didn't they discover that the Nook Color actually uses a custom micro USB connector which is backwards compatible with the standard? It goes on to say that the NC charges only through a pair of 12V pins on the USB cable that is provided with it out of the box, and in fact when you connect your NC to your computer it is *not charging at all* even if your ROM says it is. This is consistent with my experience where the battery only goes down when plugged into my PC.
Needless to say you would need some pretty serious hardware hacks to get your PC pumping 12 volts to the USB cable.
mthe0ry said:
In the NC teardown, didn't they discover that the Nook Color actually uses a custom micro USB connector which is backwards compatible with the standard? It goes on to say that the NC charges only through a pair of 12V pins on the USB cable that is provided with it out of the box, and in fact when you connect your NC to your computer it is *not charging at all* even if your ROM says it is. This is consistent with my experience where the battery only goes down when plugged into my PC.
Needless to say you would need some pretty serious hardware hacks to get your PC pumping 12 volts to the USB cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Um, no. The wall charger puts out 5 volts @ 1.9 Amps. Take a close look at the bottom of your own charger...specs are right there. Supposedly, the nook will only charge when the amperage is at least 1.9 amps. In practice it will charge as much as can minus the current it is drawing...usually more than a standard port can put out(.5A).
ie standard port = .5A
Nook draw is ~ .45A
total for charging is .05A....barely noticeable or in worst case not even enough to keep up.
Not to mention that many ports shut down entirely if they think they are sending out to much current.
send 12 volts into your nook and you will have found one of the few ways to brick it
edit: what these"hacks" for the usb ports do is raise the limiting on them to higher values..say 5 volts @ 1A or rarely 1.5A
Two of SMSC's family of transceivers supports up to 1.5A from dedicated charger ports.
Furthermore, I'm charging my nook color from my netbook right now with a standard non-OEM usb cable. So I don't think you need the standard one
Some basic info here:
http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads/Product_Brochures/usb333x_334xfs.pdf
ace7196 said:
Two of SMSC's family of transceivers supports up to 1.5A from dedicated charger ports.
Furthermore, I'm charging my nook color from my netbook right now with a standard non-OEM usb cable. So I don't think you need the standard one
Some basic info here:
http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads/Product_Brochures/usb333x_334xfs.pdf
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I'm thinking that the extra pins in the stock cable are mostly for the led in there. Going back to work monday and ordering a spare for teardown purposes with my first check. I'll let you all know exactly what I find out.
mthe0ry said:
In the NC teardown, didn't they discover that the Nook Color actually uses a custom micro USB connector which is backwards compatible with the standard? It goes on to say that the NC charges only through a pair of 12V pins on the USB cable that is provided with it out of the box, and in fact when you connect your NC to your computer it is *not charging at all* even if your ROM says it is. This is consistent with my experience where the battery only goes down when plugged into my PC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Except that it does charge on ANY source. If the NC is running and active it uses MORE CURRENT THAN 500mAh, so it won't charge any, but it's still getting 500mAh of juice.
If you turn off the screen, it'll slowly charge.... Around 10%/hr.
And I suspect that the 1.9A from the stock charger+cable comes from all 3 pairs, the standard pair + the two extra in the B&N cable, but it's possible that the stock cable only charges the extra two pairs. Regardless, it does charge from a standard cable on any USB port. The B&N ROM does not show charging unless it's charging at 1.9A.
ace7196 said:
Two of SMSC's family of transceivers supports up to 1.5A from dedicated charger ports.
Furthermore, I'm charging my nook color from my netbook right now with a standard non-OEM usb cable. So I don't think you need the standard one
Some basic info here:
http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads/Product_Brochures/usb333x_334xfs.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can also confirm nook will charge off a standard USB (at least while I've got CM7), using the stock BN cable, and definitely faster than 10%/hour. Have been doing so off my work computer for a while now. I recall that this did NOT work while the NC was virgin unrooted, however, although occasionally there'd be this weird "bump" in batt level to 100% when first connecting. Have not seen that effect since going to CM7.
last night as a test I let my nook go to 10% remaining. Then I used my daughters LG Ally cable on the stock charger for 1 hour. It charged to 24%. Then I drained back to 10% and used the stock cable for 1 hour...result?....44%. There IS something special with the stock cable. I don't think there is any magic to the charger other than the amperage.
deadbot1 said:
last night as a test I let my nook go to 10% remaining. Then I used my daughters LG Ally cable on the stock charger for 1 hour. It charged to 24%. Then I drained back to 10% and used the stock cable for 1 hour...result?....44%. There IS something special with the stock cable. I don't think there is any magic to the charger other than the amperage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh.. Yeah. As said a hundred times, the cable has 4 extra pins for charging on the MicroUSB side.
FWIW, I think I may have traced my recent charging problems to a Belkin USB charger at my office. On this power source, the battery indicates charging from USB, and apparently there's not enough current to keep up with the demand of the device. It discharges continuously with the screen on, and only keeps even with the screen off. The only way to charge with the Belkin is to turn the phone off.
With the included HTC adapter at my home, however (and with a Motorola adapter left over from a previous phone), the Rezound will charge with screen off, and perhaps even a little with the screen on. Allowed to charge overnight, I do not have to turn the device off when using the HTC charger. On this charger, the phone indicates AC power.
Of course, none of this was an issue before I took the ICS leak. Even though I've gone back to GB, I still have the ICS firmware, and I suspect something different in there is affecting charging.
In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if HTC simply lowered charging rates as part of a campaign to deal with widespread heat issues. If you were trying to cool the phone, that's definitely something you would consider tweaking.
For sure, it's a known issue, some chargers give the full 1A ( the phone indicates AC charging) and some only give 400ma or less (USB Charging).
Search around for chargers and there's good discussion on AC adapters that work well, and even how to modify a USB wall/car charger to give a full AC amount.
Both my gigabyte and msi motherboards are able to deliver up to 1.5A via the USB ports, and are even able to charge my phone (or tablet) when the computer is OFF.
a.mcdear said:
Both my gigabyte and msi motherboards are able to deliver up to 1.5A via the USB ports, and are even able to charge my phone (or tablet) when the computer is OFF.
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for sure, but i bet your phone is only commanding 500ma from it since the phone is usb 2.0 spec... I too have a power port on my laptop to charge things when the laptop is off but it doesn't get over usb 2.0 spec because of the phone :x
I've tried everything, short of trying to make, or looking for, customized drivers to overload it.
thatsricci said:
for sure, but i bet your phone is only commanding 500ma from it since the phone is usb 2.0 spec... I too have a power port on my laptop to charge things when the laptop is off but it doesn't get over usb 2.0 spec because of the phone :x
I've tried everything, short of trying to make, or looking for, customized drivers to overload it.
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Click to collapse
You might be right when it comes to the Rezound, but I know for a fact that it is capable of supplying more than 500mA to some devices for charging. It charges my TF101 even with the screen on, which every other computer with ordinary USB ports seems incapable of doing. If I plug my TF101 into any other computer with a standard USB 2.0 port, it will still slowly discharge if the screen is on and I'm using it.
Either way, I notice absolutely no difference between charging via USB on my computer or via the actual charger, so I'm relatively sure the USB port IS outputting at least the full 1A that the actual charger is rated at, and I am NOT using a kernel with the "fast charge" mod..
I haven't really spent much time noticing how slowly the Rezound would charge on a regular USB 2.0 port. Maybe I'll give it a shot on my laptop tonight just to test it out.
Or, a simple ammeter would probably put the issue to rest definitely.. I wonder if I know anybody with one I could use.....
a.mcdear said:
You might be right when it comes to the Rezound, but I know for a fact that it is capable of supplying more than 500mA to some devices for charging. It charges my TF101 even with the screen on, which every other computer with ordinary USB ports seems incapable of doing. If I plug my TF101 into any other computer with a standard USB 2.0 port, it will still slowly discharge if the screen is on and I'm using it.
Either way, I notice absolutely no difference between charging via USB on my computer or via the actual charger, so I'm relatively sure the USB port IS outputting at least the full 1A that the actual charger is rated at, and I am NOT using a kernel with the "fast charge" mod..
I haven't really spent much time noticing how slowly the Rezound would charge on a regular USB 2.0 port. Maybe I'll give it a shot on my laptop tonight just to test it out.
Or, a simple ammeter would probably put the issue to rest definitely.. I wonder if I know anybody with one I could use.....
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Click to collapse
Or you could use a battery charging app to verify what rate it is charging at.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA
nosympathy said:
Or you could use a battery charging app to verify what rate it is charging at.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA
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Click to collapse
Which app do you use?
thatsricci said:
for sure, but i bet your phone is only commanding 500ma from it since the phone is usb 2.0 spec... I too have a power port on my laptop to charge things when the laptop is off but it doesn't get over usb 2.0 spec because of the phone :x
I've tried everything, short of trying to make, or looking for, customized drivers to overload it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a charging only cable, i.e. Naztech Micro USB Charging Cable (sorry, don't remember who initially pointed to this), and the phone will see the source as an outlet and not a usb port.
plcline said:
Use a charging only cable, i.e. Naztech Micro USB Charging Cable (sorry, don't remember who initially pointed to this), and the phone will see the source as an outlet and not a usb port.
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Click to collapse
Well that makes sense, any USB cord without data points can only provide power and therefore the phone wouldn't be able to determine whether its a computers USB port or a charger. When the data pins are present, the phone must request a high-power mode from the computer in order to obtain the full 500mA on standard ports, or 1.5A in the case of some newer boards as I mentioned earlier.
I discovered today that, for some reason, my prime will not charge. The LED at the top isn't on either. I recall first using it this morning around 9am and it had 25% left but I needed to travel so I didn't use it. When I wanted to use it again, hours later, the meter showed that it had 36% which didn't make sense. However, I am able to connect it to my computer to transfer files.
Here's some info just in case:
-My device is unlocked
-I had the current Primalicious Rom when I discovered the problem
-I did a factory reset in hopes to solve the problem (didn't work)
-I installed a different rom (AOKP, but didn't work)
-I installed another rom (Virtuous, hasn't worked either)
-I've tried charging my phone with the Prime's power source and that works
Does anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advanced.
Either the cable or the charger is bad. You can try the various "fixes' in the forum such as bending pins, freezer, etc just in case. In my case, I could transfer data and trickle charge via USB but nothing else. Turned out to be a cable problem.
TechAnimal said:
Either the cable or the charger is bad. You can try the various "fixes' in the forum such as bending pins, freezer, etc just in case. In my case, I could transfer data and trickle charge via USB but nothing else. Turned out to be a cable problem.
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Click to collapse
Maybe I have the same case as you but I decided to leave it on the charger to see if anything would change and I was able to go from 17% to 82 % in 5 hours but I usually takes a shorter time to fully charge. The weird thing is that I never get a notification that the battery is charging and in the battery portion of the settings it says the battery isn't charging even when I'm plugged in.
Well, I went to Best Buy today to see if their cable would charge my tablet and it did so I'm off to get a new cable. Thanks for the help!
It may not be the cable. Check the charger as well. A lot of the chargers have gone bad and caused the same problem
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
If you are trying to charge by usb, you have to have a usb 3, not 2 port as the Prime requires 15v to charge and the usb 2 port does not provide that.
If you search these forums, it has been discussed in several threads, so that may be your problem. You need to use the charger that was included with your prime. Even car chargers not rated properly will not work as well.
gunz.jones said:
It may not be the cable. Check the charger as well. A lot of the chargers have gone bad and caused the same problem
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using xda premium
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Click to collapse
It might just be my charger; it only charges my cell phone right now.
Dnakaman said:
If you are trying to charge by usb, you have to have a usb 3, not 2 port as the Prime requires 15v to charge and the usb 2 port does not provide that.
If you search these forums, it has been discussed in several threads, so that may be your problem. You need to use the charger that was included with your prime. Even car chargers not rated properly will not work as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I'll try usb 3.0 and see how that works out.
Dnakaman said:
If you are trying to charge by usb, you have to have a usb 3, not 2 port as the Prime requires 15v to charge and the usb 2 port does not provide that.
If you search these forums, it has been discussed in several threads, so that may be your problem. You need to use the charger that was included with your prime. Even car chargers not rated properly will not work as well.
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Click to collapse
Actually, that's false. It does not need 15v....it will work with 18 watts at 12x1.5 and 15x1.2. The Prime by itself will charge on USB 2.0, but very slow. The only difference with 3.0 is higher amps (.3-.4 average higher) from usb 2.0. The voltage is the same. It has been discussed, but I don't think you read the posts. Wikipedia has an excellent article on USB you should check on. Also, the charger that came from Asus have a variable rate from 5x2 to 15x1.2 based on resistance via the wall adapter. It's the same charger used on the 101. The 201 has better power management and can even take a charge through USB 2.0 with low usage, or at least keep the battery at a stable number. OC users will not have such success under use and wifi other than a slower dissipation of the battery. Check the 101 forums regarding the use of other chargers, both car and home, that work well. I use an adaptaplug from Radioshack that is 12x1.5. Unlike some of the problems people have been having with faulty no-name 3rd parties and the high rate of OEM failures, there have been some conventional and not-so-conventional projects that have been successful and not damaging to the tablet. Note: With the dock, you will need 12 volts at least for it to register correctly and charge since the dock battery is rated (if i remember correctly) at 7.5 volts. Maybe my results may differ based on OC kernels and their voltage tables as well as rom choice as far as battery usage. Just some facts to throw out there for readers and the OP for a better idea of what will and won't work.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda premium
RachellehcaR said:
It might just be my charger; it only charges my cell phone right now.
Thanks I'll try USB 3.0 and see how that works out.
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Click to collapse
Its the cable. I was also able to/charge my phone. I've found that the cable is quite delicate and doesn't like to be tied up, etc.
I have just had the same problem. Stock charger worked yesterday then wouldn't work today. Just stopped. Wouldn't light up or charge did not know why. I read a few of these forms and they kept talking about pins in the usb.
I got a torch of and looked at all the connection on both sides of the cable and the wall charger. Looked fine for my untrained eye
But i thought i would play with the pins in the usb cord side anyway. Plugged everything back in and it worked fine. Job done thanks to xda forums.
Mine stopped working a few months ago, so I unplugged it from the wall for a few days and left it alone. Decided to try it a few days later and it worked no problem. No idea what the issue was lol... Everything was plugged in fully and properly, and the outlet I used was the same both times.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using XDA Premium.
When ever I drive, I have my phone hooked up to my Escort Red Line radar detector and my car's stereo via bluetooth (both). In order for me to use the radar detector effective, I need to have GPS and Blueooth enabled. This is a HUGE SUPER OMG battery drainer for my amaze. 20 minutes drive kills about 35% of the phone's power. My radar detector offers a slot to charge my phone BUT it still drains, not enough juice flowing in. Someone said it is because it's probably a .5amp.
So I am running a extension from the 12v lighter that's in the trunk to the front of my car. Amazon has a generic 2.1amp for 3 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Heavy...121&sr=8-1&keywords=htc+amaze+car+charger+amp
But on ebay, I found the original HTC car charger for 15 bucks which is a 1amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HTC-Amaze-4...918506?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c867022a
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
The 2.1 amp is probably 1 amp per port. Although it does not seem to specify.
F9zSlavik said:
What do you guys recommend? My logic says go for the 2.1amp, the phone will draw as much as it needs from it.
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Right!:good:
---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------
soundping said:
The 1amp.
Anything higher you'll damage the phone or the battery.
A wall plug power supply or a usb supply is 5.0v/1amp.
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Click to collapse
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Higher voltage will trip a warning window telling you to disconnect and use official HTC equipment.
The phone monitors input voltage to protect the equipment.
nyc_tdi said:
That means a higher capacity battery (more current NOT MORE VOLTAGE) will damage the phone?!!!!
Totally wrong!
A higher current will not damage the phone. A higher voltage will do it!
Please do not mix the current with voltage!
Voltage is same 5 Volts (±5%) for these “USB like” applications (1A or 2.1A power supply our case )They use USB socket/connector but usually only pin 1 and 4 (+ and-)
Regular computer USB port can supply max 0.5-0.9 A depending on version.
For battery charging devices the current can go to 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
I recently got an Amaze and am generally happy with it. The biggest problem I have right now is finding the right car charger for it because the car charger I previously used (a 1A monoprice car charger) doesn't give it enough charge. I have been reading through the forums and some has been saying that if the charger is not working properly, it will recognize it as charging via USB rather than AC. In my case, the phone seems to be reading it as charging through AC, but there still doesn't seem to be enough current going through it. The phone will only charge if NOTHING is going on (i.e. screen's off, no GPS, etc.). I've been using CoPilot GPS and it draws the battery like crazy. Anyone has any idea as to which car charger would work properly with the Amaze such that I'll be able to charge (or at least maintain the charge) while using it as a GPS? Do I need to go up to a 2.1A charger?
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
I couldve sworn we talked about this months ago. Let me see if I can find the thread.
nguyendqh said:
I would look for a 4-5 star rated 2.1a car charger on Amazon.
Just read through the comments and feedback and you'll find one that's right for you.
I prefer the USB charger base itself and then using the OEM cable that came with the Amaze.
It seems to charge faster with that cable, at least to me anyway.
Remember though if it's rated 2.1a but has two USB slots that 2.1a will be cut in half if used to charge two different devices.
Hope this helps.
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Click to collapse
you won't get the full 2.1a unless you usee a charge only cable or modify the charger as I stated above...
I ended up getting a 2.1A car charger and a USB charge only cable, and it's working perfectly. When I have the screen on full brightness and doing navigation with Co-Pilot GPS, my phone's no longer losing charge and is actually charging. The combo also works with my tablet as well.
blast0id said:
and to add to that... unless you take the charger apart and short pins 2 and 3, it will only ever draw 500mA, as it assumes that it is hooked up to a regular powered USB port... I have bought multiple car charger usb adapters, and I have taken all of them apart and soldered the 2nd and 3rd pins together... otherwise charge time = forever, and sometimes it won't even charge if you have wifi or data/gps/bluetooth all going at once...
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Click to collapse
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Silentbtdeadly said:
This is damn helpful! So THAT is why when driving and using gps or whatnot I would always lose more battery even on charger.. So basically I can just solder the middle 2 pins together to trick it into thinking it is being powered like a home charger? No chance it will hurt anything I assume?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done this to every single one of my USB car chargers... not a single issue...