I've torn apart my Prime in hopes of fixing the lack of GPS and horrible wifi. My issue is absolutely and unfortunately a hardware one and I am looking for ways to resolve it. Upon tearing it apart, I noticed that there were two mini ufl type connectors that I traced back to the horrible pogo pins. Im thinking of adding a separate internal antennae to the connectors to see if it helps my issues any ( attached pic is of the GPS/swan/Alan antennae I will order ). The thing is, I cant find this particular type of connector anywhere online to order the proper plug for the socket. Ive already found a thin antennae that I want to use ( and I may even mod it to the exterior of the case ). Can anyone with working radio knowledge take a look at the attached pic and let me know what type of socket this is ? Its much like a regular internal wifi socket but just a hair smaller. Thanks!
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
I took a couple more photos with the plastic covering removed. It looks like it should be relatively easy to add another antennae if I can find the proper cable to solder to it. You can easily trace the bulk of the IC for the antennae wires
I removed the left pogo in hopes to solder the connection to the pad but couldnt get it to stick.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
Ok, another quick update. The Pogo pins are the antennas center pin. The ground is actually a body ground to the back casing via that little copper pad making contact to the silver foam pad stuck on the case which is shown below in the case just above the pogo pins. I greatly increased my wifi signal by soldering a small lead to the copper pad on the antenna and grounding it to a case screw next to the camera. I also cleaned the silver plate on the antenna to ensure the pogo pin makes contact. I still have had no luck getting GPS up and running.
Side Note,
There is a bridge that looks like maybe a HFL socket on either end on the left side of the mainboard near the single pogo pin. Im going to order a short bridge because when i carefully removed it, the end fell right off leading me to believe the end wasnt crimped on properly. So far 2 design flaws Asus........Great job! The other odd little connector seems to be a testing point. Apparently it breaks the lead to the antenna when the tester probes into it. Im wondering if the internal mechanism in the testing socket is broken and is causing the lack of connectivity to the regular antenna for the gps? im going to solder the ground wire and a main wire to the GPS antenna when I get a chance , fixing the ground to the mainboards grounding plate, and carefully test the other side of the resistor leading to the test socket. This should let me know for sure if the sockets center pin is breaking contact for the pogo pin.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
pyraxiate said:
Ok, another quick update. The Pogo pins are the antennas center pin. The ground is actually a body ground to the back casing via that little copper pad making contact to the silver foam pad stuck on the case which is shown below in the case just above the pogo pins. I greatly increased my wifi signal by soldering a small lead to the copper pad on the antenna and grounding it to a case screw next to the camera. I also cleaned the silver plate on the antenna to ensure the pogo pin makes contact. I still have had no luck getting GPS up and running.
Side Note,
There is a bridge that looks like maybe a HFL socket on either end on the left side of the mainboard near the single pogo pin. Im going to order a short bridge because when i carefully removed it, the end fell right off leading me to believe the end wasnt crimped on properly. So far 2 design flaws Asus........Great job! The other odd little connector seems to be a testing point. Apparently it breaks the lead to the antenna when the tester probes into it. Im wondering if the internal mechanism in the testing socket is broken and is causing the lack of connectivity to the regular antenna for the gps? im going to solder the ground wire and a main wire to the GPS antenna when I get a chance , fixing the ground to the mainboards grounding plate, and carefully test the other side of the resistor leading to the test socket. This should let me know for sure if the sockets center pin is breaking contact for the pogo pin.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Keep up the good work ... you never know what you might find...
Impressive work. Looking forward to the end result. Keep us posted.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Thanks for the kind words guys. It might be a few days before I can take more time to work on this little project. If this pans out, Im also thinking of adding a 3.5mm jack to the top right side so we can plug in a straight external antenna ( Just above the headphones jack ). Im a mandatory city employee and we are still dealing with this hurricane here on the east coast, so my time is short for the time being ( damn 12 hr shifts lol ).
Here is the antenna in thinking about modding the case to fit :
Item: 3.5mm 12dbi AV TV FM Radio GPS Antenna For Cellphone Nokia 5230 5800 N8 N9 N97
URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=390411077664
Here is the internal part for it. Id just solder the leads to where the gps pins have an active connection. It looks like there is enough space in the case in the top right corner to fit the internal component. Id likely just drill a clean hole and hot glue it to the case to keep it from moving around. From there its a simple solder to the leads to make the jack active for an external GPS
Item: 2 pcs 3.5mm 4 Pole Female Repair headphone earphone Jack Plug Audio Soldering
URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=251173492012
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
pyraxiate said:
Thanks for the kind words guys. It might be a few days before I can take more time to work on this little project. If this pans out, Im also thinking of adding a 3.5mm jack to the top right side so we can plug in a straight external antenna ( Just above the headphones jack ). Im a mandatory city employee and we are still dealing with this hurricane here on the east coast, so my time is short for the time being ( damn 12 hr shifts lol ).
Here is the antenna in thinking about modding the case to fit :
Item: 3.5mm 12dbi AV TV FM Radio GPS Antenna For Cellphone Nokia 5230 5800 N8 N9 N97
URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=390411077664
Here is the internal part for it. Id just solder the leads to where the gps pins have an active connection. It looks like there is enough space in the case in the top right corner to fit the internal component. Id likely just drill a clean hole and hot glue it to the case to keep it from moving around. From there its a simple solder to the leads to make the jack active for an external GPS
Item: 2 pcs 3.5mm 4 Pole Female Repair headphone earphone Jack Plug Audio Soldering
URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=251173492012
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much to hack mine if it works....
pooblej said:
How much to hack mine if it works....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but Im not touching anyone elses tab. If it works, ill provide detailed instructions on what I did along with pictures. The risk to your device is in your own hands. I personally dont mind tinkering with mine
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
pyraxiate said:
Thanks for the kind words guys. It might be a few days before I can take more time to work on this little project. If this pans out, Im also thinking of adding a 3.5mm jack to the top right side so we can plug in a straight external antenna ( Just above the headphones jack ). Im a mandatory city employee and we are still dealing with this hurricane here on the east coast, so my time is short for the time being ( damn 12 hr shifts lol ).
Here is the antenna in thinking about modding the case to fit :
Item: 3.5mm 12dbi AV TV FM Radio GPS Antenna For Cellphone Nokia 5230 5800 N8 N9 N97
URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=390411077664
Here is the internal part for it. Id just solder the leads to where the gps pins have an active connection. It looks like there is enough space in the case in the top right corner to fit the internal component. Id likely just drill a clean hole and hot glue it to the case to keep it from moving around. From there its a simple solder to the leads to make the jack active for an external GPS
Item: 2 pcs 3.5mm 4 Pole Female Repair headphone earphone Jack Plug Audio Soldering
URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=251173492012
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Keep safe through the Hurricane man. I would like to suggest a child post for this forum on Hurricane Sandy just a let us know each member is safe and sound.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Pyraxiate - did you try this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1509794 ???
I just remembered it and added some foil as per image on post #1 and hide it inside my case.
Looks like it makes a massive difference! Have try and report back!
pyraxiate said:
Ok, another quick update. The Pogo pins are the antennas center pin. The ground is actually a body ground to the back casing via that little copper pad making contact to the silver foam pad stuck on the case which is shown below in the case just above the pogo pins. I greatly increased my wifi signal by soldering a small lead to the copper pad on the antenna and grounding it to a case screw next to the camera. I also cleaned the silver plate on the antenna to ensure the pogo pin makes contact. I still have had no luck getting GPS up and running.
Side Note,
There is a bridge that looks like maybe a HFL socket on either end on the left side of the mainboard near the single pogo pin. Im going to order a short bridge because when i carefully removed it, the end fell right off leading me to believe the end wasnt crimped on properly. So far 2 design flaws Asus........Great job! The other odd little connector seems to be a testing point. Apparently it breaks the lead to the antenna when the tester probes into it. Im wondering if the internal mechanism in the testing socket is broken and is causing the lack of connectivity to the regular antenna for the gps? im going to solder the ground wire and a main wire to the GPS antenna when I get a chance , fixing the ground to the mainboards grounding plate, and carefully test the other side of the resistor leading to the test socket. This should let me know for sure if the sockets center pin is breaking contact for the pogo pin.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you unlocked running a custom rom?
whycali said:
Are you unlocked running a custom rom?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes unlocked. Daily rom is CM10 ( Craigs Build ). I flash back and forth between Stock JB ( The de-odexed flashable zip ) and Cm10. Thats part of the reason i cant test things on a whim. CM10 suits me better and I need time + computer to flash back to stock when I test hardware mods.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
pooblej said:
Pyraxiate - did you try this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1509794 ???
I just remembered it and added some foil as per image on post #1 and hide it inside my case.
Looks like it makes a massive difference! Have try and report back!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This kind of makes the gps completely null. Im trying to get it actually working LOL.
I should have time to flash / tear down tomorrow to determine if the connection to the testing socket is causing the break to my antenna. Apparently when the probe pushes into the sockets internal pin, it intentionally causes the external antenna to detatch and im thinking when the probe was removed, something got stuck causing the test socket to stay active. This is all according to the very little bit of information ive seen available on the test socket. My GPS does not function at all what-so-ever even if I remove the metal back case and run a wire to the pads on the antenna ..... My issue is purely a hardware one. There is a physical disconnect somewhere in the antenna circuit which is why im trying to build a permanent fix. If I can make some kind of contact to the gps module, ill likely solder / drill / mod the case to fit a nice looking external antenna. Im even thinking of something similar to how the IBM laptops have their modules set up on the exterior.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
pyraxiate said:
Yes unlocked. Daily rom is CM10 ( Craigs Build ). I flash back and forth between Stock JB ( The de-odexed flashable zip ) and Cm10. Thats part of the reason i cant test things on a whim. CM10 suits me better and I need time + computer to flash back to stock when I test hardware mods.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The reason I ask is because after I did this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29327186&postcount=1071
then this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29685066&postcount=1085
I discovered this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29505303&postcount=1083
The cm10 builds dont all support onboard gps even if you get it properly grounded.
Even the little bit of whining I did about my linksys rounter was helped by turning off access to 802.11a at my router.
p.s. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=31300743&postcount=1449
Update :
I removed all of the pogo pins on the upper pcb and attached a lead wire to the GPS and WIFI antennas. I was actually able to get 2 or 3 satellites leaving the antenna outside of the case. It may well have been a bad connection on the pogo pin causing my hardware issue. Ive gone ahead and ordered the 4 pole 3.5mm jack and nokia n97 3.5mm gps antenna. Something tells me ill have me a nice mod on my hands I just hope the 3.5mm barrel jack isnt too large to fit where im hoping to put it.
The waiting game from China begins lol
If that doesnt work, Im planning on carefully drilling a hole and permanently affixing a thin external gps to the back of the tablet similar to this one :
Item: EMTAC GPS External Antenna GPA-03A New
URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=390103227129
Alt URL: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMTAC-GPS-External-Antenna-GPA-03A-New-/390103227129
If that does work, Ill attach a laptop wifi antenna inside of the GPS antenna case and solder it the upper pcb. Since they work on two different frequencies, I dont think they should interfere with each others operations.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
Related
Does anyone know what the connector for external antennas on the back of the wizard is called? I want to build a custom antenna that I can embed into my clothing to improve reception at school. I can't use a regular antenna since phones aren't allowed to be used at school.
HDR said:
Does anyone know what the connector for external antennas on the back of the wizard is called? I want to build a custom antenna that I can embed into my clothing to improve reception at school. I can't use a regular antenna since phones aren't allowed to be used at school.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The antenna part is:
P/N:36H00341-00M "Antenna Pre-Assy, AMPHENOL, GAN40023, PRODIGY"
I am attaching 2 pictures, the first you can see the Antenna Assembly (silver chunky thing above the case) and a second picture of the main board. You can see the brass connector just above the bar code.
This connector type is an AMPHENOL (brand) FME...at least it should be. One of these days I'll get and antenna.
--M
PS when you get the antenna, get a connector that at least has a 90degree bend in it. You might want to try http://www.wilsonelectronics.com
I have one
I grabbed one of those adapters, unfortunately, I cannot remember where. One end (FME) fits into the back of the phone with the 90 degree plug, the other end on mine is a TNC connector. I got that as I had a couple of spare antennas that use TNC.
It does improve the reception. I use the antenna's in the vehicle when on the highway to maintain reception. (I have no problems in the city)
Depending on your device, you may want to update the Radio ROM, if you haven't already. This doesn't flash/reset your phone, but does update the radio. This might resolve your problem without spending any money.
I am using the 2.47.11 Radio ROM and it did make a difference. My device is the T-Mobile MDA (Wizard). In a particular location, where I would get zero reception, I now get one bar...and that's all the difference I need.
P.S. If you do get this adapter, be careful when plugging it in and during use. Remember that FME connector is attached to the circuit board.
Greetings all,
Well here it is as promised, the fix for the dreaded audio adapter not working after upgradeio flash was of ROM. First of all, I upgraded my ROM and radio to DCD's newest 3.0.0 and radio, which fixed my SelectRadio issue where it dropped out, and looked at the RNC and discovered that it was as I suspected a timer value in the radio ROM was tweaked wrong causing the BER to run away and make the PPP session reinitialize very quickly or go dormant all together, but new radio fixed it. Still we had the audio adapter broken after upgrade issue, so here it is and how to fix it:
First, there is no 'electronics that you have to have' in the adapter as advertised. The problem was that a pin is wired differently in the ones that exibit the problem. The fix is as simple as clipping a wire ! Yep, thats right. Ok, with the connector of the adapter pointed at you, the curved part down, you will notice there are 6 pins on the lower edge. Numbered 1 thru 6 from left to right, pin 1 is unused, 2 is the tip of the 3.5mm jack, 3is unused, 4 & 5 are audio ground (sleve), 6 is the ring on the connector. On the stock adapter and the pigtail sound only adapters that do work properly this is how it is. The ones that mess up are a little different in that pin 1 is shorted to 4 & 5 which did not make a difference before, but really seems to upset any ROM based on 6.1. All you have to do is GENTLY cut the adapter and clip the wire going to pin 1 and all is good, no loss of any functio, it even still powers/charges as this is done by pins 1 & 5 on the top row. A tiny odity is that on some adapters the tip and ring are reversed resulting in left and right channels being reversed, but you can fix or ignore that at your leisure. ENJOY !!!!!!!!!!!!
P.S. Maybe a mod would make this easy to find or sticky it ??? I bet many people are wrestling with this easy to fix issue, I know it bugged the stew out of me til I just sat down and figured it out. Thanks for looking at my rant and being patient as I took a long time to follow thru with my promise.
I've read what you posted in both of the adapter threads, and just want to confirm. I have the adapter shown in this link:
http://www.semsons.com/2miusband3st.html
Your fix works on this adapter? I wonder if there is a way to just remove pin 1 from the adapter without having to cut it open. How did you reseal the molded plastic (I assume some sort of glue). Thanks!
Thats the one
MIK1200 said:
I've read what you posted in both of the adapter threads, and just want to confirm. I have the adapter shown in this link:
http://www.semsons.com/2miusband3st.html
Your fix works on this adapter? I wonder if there is a way to just remove pin 1 from the adapter without having to cut it open. How did you reseal the molded plastic (I assume some sort of glue). Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats the one I am talking about and i was thinking you might just be able to pull the pin but i was worried about damaging the connector.
Confirm
This fix works also with the HTC adapter that comes with the device.
Don't cut open the adapter, try to cut the pin 1 from outside in.
Thanks!
Pretty ghetto fix....
But I'll have to try it later, because rigging up 2 adapter and having to plug them in, in a certain order is really sucking.
madman34 said:
P.S. Maybe a mod would make this easy to find or sticky it ??? I bet many people are wrestling with this easy to fix issue, I know it bugged the stew out of me til I just sat down and figured it out. Thanks for looking at my rant and being patient as I took a long time to follow thru with my promise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe this could be a Wiki topic
I can't believe this
First of all thank you for saving everyone on this forum money, because now we don't have to buy adapters to try and figure this out.
I spent months without being able to use the adapter and finally broke down and downgraded to the original 2.17 ROM.
Now, I can finally use the adapter again and can't believe that it was so simple all along.
I can't thank you enough.
This modification of the adapter works - I just confirmed it.
Michael
this is great. I now have garmin mobile gps, all my bluetooth devices working, and at last music through my headphones. life is good.
This will be great if I can get it to work. How are you guys removing pin-1? Are you opening the adapter or are you removing from the connector? If your removing from the connector, what are you using?
I took an exacto knife and bent pin 1 up and tried to bend it to get it to break to no avail, so I just bent it up as much as possible and pushed it into the connector hoping it would not short out any other wires, got lucky cause it works now, thanks for the tutorial
OMG!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I just figured it was worth trying this before buying a new one. I used a thread ripper to move pin one around till it was not aligned correctly then i just plugged it into my phone hoping it would break the pin. But it didnt, it bent it way far into the adapter. I thought i was screwed ... but i plugged it in and it works now! THANKS AGAIN!
you are the awesome!
pics?
Can anyone post pics of their "modded" adapter? I'm not new to soldering, but I am new to cutting open a molded rubber piece like this...
sputnik said:
Can anyone post pics of their "modded" adapter? I'm not new to soldering, but I am new to cutting open a molded rubber piece like this...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ditto. Can someone post a diagram or picture so we know exactly which one is pin 1.
x10dude said:
Ditto. Can someone post a diagram or picture so we know exactly which one is pin 1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is based off reading madman34's post. I *THINK* this is what you should see when you look at the jack on the PPC6800 and the connector on the audio adapter. Can anyone verify this?
Code:
PPC6800
_______________
| |
| 4 3 2 1 |
| 6 5 4 3 2 1 |
|______________/
USB/Audio Adapter
_______________
| |
| 1 2 3 4 |=====|===== to USB*: 1) +5V DC, 2) Data-, 3) Data+, 4) Ground
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |=====|===== to Headphone**: 1) Unused***, 2) Tip (Left Channel****),
\______________| 3) Unused, 4) & 5) Sleeve (GND),
6) Ring (Right Channel****)
* [URL="http://pinouts.ws/usb-pinout.html"]http://pinouts.ws/usb-pinout.html[/URL] (the 4th physical pin is unused,
and therefore not labeled in these diagrams)
** Based entirely off madman34's research. I have not verified any of this.
*** On non-working adapters, this pin is shorted to 4 & 5. If your adapter does not work,
disconnect the wire leading to the pin or bend the pin back so that it does not make
contact in the jack.
**** Left & Right Channels might be swapped on some adapters.
Thanks for running with this
The diagram is spot on and I think pin 3 might be the microphone line, but have not tested this yet.
madman34 said:
The diagram is spot on and I think pin 3 might be the microphone line, but have not tested this yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If that's the case, then I'd assume that pin 1 would be microphone ground. Are there any audio adapters that also provide microphone input? If so, maybe we should warn people not to cut pin 1 if they plan on using the microphone.
Or maybe it's possible that all of the non-working adapters were built to include microphone support, which for some reason isn't working.
It works!
Thanks!
I didn't get the pin to come out...But I guess it's bent back somewhere...
I used a sewing needle and then used that other adapter that came with the phone to crush it.
Are you people screwing with the port on your phone or the connector on the adapter? I personally would NEVER mess with my phone to get some adapter working.
jrebeiro said:
Are you people screwing with the port on your phone or the connector on the adapter? I personally would NEVER mess with my phone to get some adapter working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
we are only talking about messing with the adapter's, not the phone......my adapter cost only $4 so I didn't have much at risk here
You DID NOT do that did you?
Otter said:
It works!
Thanks!
I didn't get the pin to come out...But I guess it's bent back somewhere...
I used a sewing needle and then used that other adapter that came with the phone to crush it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Otter, the way you put that it sounds like you did mess with the pin on the phone. Please say that we read this wrong as I meant only to alter the cheap adapter and never the phone.
ok i may have this completely wrong as i have not tested it yet but i noticed on the back of my tg01 i had 2 round black stickers, one top left, one middle left.
After peeling this stickers off i have 2 little ports which look remarkably like the ports used on internal wifi chips (laptops, nintendo ds) which the areial plugs into for the wifi signal
We can now enhance the tg01's wifi reception with a little careful wire placement
i hope his helps someone with the wifi reception & maybe better battery life as its not having to try so hard for a signal
comments?
Are you sure one of those are not for a external GSM antenna? Like for using in a car
no, i did think this but they are to small. only 2-3mm across. i know what im talking about when it comes to hardware, they are definitely wifi ant. ports.
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?i...internal+wifi+connector&um=1&hl=en&tbs=isch:1
this site has loads of pics and prices for the relevant hardware
its called an ipx connector, the pigtails they sell can be used to act as the antennae.
i think this could be a good thing
that connector u linked in is a standard connector used with laptop wifi card , they have a little pin in the middle , the connector on the tg01 has no pin in the middle , the ring around it is the shading
kk here is what i know so far.....
most (if not all) builtin wifi chips have an antenae port out, i know this through research with the nintendo ds, and internal laptop chip on various laptops ranging from toshiba to sony.
they commonly have two of the ipx ports for the loop with the wifi flylead.
it may be possible qualcomm have used a proprietary ipx adapter for extra sales through the hardware of there chipset or toshiba have gotten the grubby little hands on it and done it that way
we need people who want to run an experiment on this and find out if they are what i think they are or if im completely wrong
volunteers????
i happen to have a connector ur looking for , but , it doesnt have a pin in the middle and its 90' angled so it wont fit unless i get the back cover off ... with that said , i dont have a 3angled srewdriver thats needed
... ill make some pics later
could it be possible the snapdragon chipset has done away with the pin for a design point? they may be purely there as a dud bit of hardware as qualcomm have directly etched the wifi ant onto pcb and not allowing the flylead?
or...
they may be semi usable with the core (the bit with the pin) etched onto the pcb and the earth allowed to be enhanced by just using the outer rim of these ipx ports?
or...
im totally wrong and as well as the usb host function you could attach a couple of jump leads to the beast via these ports and jump start that big ol v8 what keeps stalling?
Perhaps they could be test points, do you think you can show us a photograph?
i will upload pics tomorrow, they wont be great quality as i have to use my wifes blackberry for em and it dont take great up close pics.
test points are a possibility, tbh it did cross my mind but usually there just dotson the pcb, not ports, but it is a more advanced piece of hardware.
just out of interest but if you were to hook it up with the ports via usb, there would be a chance you could damage it because of the power usb ports output. if it turns out to be wifi then your gonna blow the chip or worse.
but if you want to try it then by all means psot results
hope this help
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5106/p1210021g.jpg
nice one!
looks like it connects two aerials for better wifi/radio
compare the connector with this
i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss28/linyedongwyl/Intel-5300-half.jpg
thats the connector for the ipx that has been linked earlier , this is a little different , it would be nice to see what the connectors look like on the tg's wires?
alrite , lets compare this baby to the xperia x1
www.phonewreck.com/wiki/images/b/b2/Xperia_x1_pcb_1.jpg
u can clearly see it also has two unused connectors of the same kind wich appear to be unused /but on tg the two upper ones were connected on the pcb!!!/
as for the interconnection of unknown function on the backplate they used the battery cover to pass it thru(the cover's back is unpainted on thoose specific points to give conduction) if it were to just hold the cover in place the would of left the paint on
see the four pins on the phone around the battery
www.ubergizmo.com/photos/2009/3/xperia-x1-battery.jpg
so i was right, we can get better wifi signal with these ports.
and then
better signal + less energy needed = better battery life
and the SE using the conductor pins for the back cover they have used that on the old w series of phones to. no real idea of what it does though
thanks to those who uploaded pics, helped out a lot with explaining what they are and the circuit detail.
so who' gonna be the first to install this on there phone and so testing for battery life and signal improvement?
Did you get anywhere with this? Very interested!
This sort of thing would surely work:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/800-900-1...099221?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ced70add5
IPX antenna.
Alternatively.. what would almost 100% work is a replacement antenna cable for the tg01
Although I could be wrong... if you look at this review of the LG P990 (Optimus 2X) you will notice the two different types of connector: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4144/...gra-2-review-the-first-dual-core-smartphone/9
External aerial points for testing the phones at the factory? Can they be used/abused to get an external or bigger aerial setup? What connector is that without the pin????????
Update.. is it an MMCX connector ? (or even MMCX-KC). I am tempted to buy one from ebay (although my TG01 is bricked LMAO, at least I'd know if it fit!) Pretty certain now it's an MMCX connector. Now trouble is... you can get that connector for GSM and GPS... so what are the connectors for I wonder.
For example.. I have terrible reception in the office so having a bigger external aerial on the phone may help, but I'd be interested in a better GPS cable as well Let's have some fun!
EDIT: OR.. I just had a look at my Moto V3i external connection and that is almost identical to the connectors on the TG01.. and it looks like you can get an aerial/antenna kit for the v3/v3i Might give it ago but it's pricey at about £20 :-(
LMAO @ this link: http://www.ehow.com/how_7580234_increase-reception-v3i.html Fancy testing a paperclip guys?
Well... I just ordered a 3G/UMTS antenna from china (so will be a while) with a MMCX connector. I will let you guys know if it fits AND works
Another edit LOL: I also just ordered another external antenna. This time for the V3i RAZR, as it looks like it has the same connector type as the TG01, so will give that a go. Only cost £8.05 for the adaptor and the antenna, so not 'too' bad for something that should fit.
Ok, i know theres a sticky for the GPS dongle but this isnt one of those "Wheres my dongle" or how to sign up threads so i thought it diserved its own thread. If you have questions about how to acquire a GPS dongle or want to say you got yours or whatever this is NOT the place to do it. See the sticky. kthxbie.
Still with me? Awesome! In having multiple primes i have recieved multiple GPS dongles. Since i rarely use one as it is, let alone them all at once i was wondering what sort of tweaks / hacks / mods have people tried (or wanted to try but were too afraid of screwing up their only dongle) that i might do on my extra one?
I already plan on doing a full teardown, taking highres macro pictures of the connector as well as unsoldering the shielding on the PCB and seeing whats underneath. Anything else you guys can think of?
Im not too worried about ruining the device if it means i can try something cool! Lets hear those ideas!
UPDATE: isolated the dock connector. Thus far with my tester these pins are grounded: (back view)
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ G _ G
G _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ G
I know theres an official dock connector thread here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1630300 but im not sure which pins according to that thread match what i have here.
UPDATE 2: removed dock connector, looks like only the bottom row goes to the dongle, not sure yet if any of the top row go anywhere inside the dongle or if it terminates at the connector. Will continue to test.
UPDATE 3: Ok, uploaded my work for tonight, traced a few of the connections just to see where everything is going. There WERE a couple that were coming out the top row, the two resisters on top, that MIGHT be the trigger to tell the prime its connected to an external device? who knows. anyways, its very late here, i will continue to test as i have time and as people show interest.
UDATE 5/5/2012
Ok, been doing some research and testing and whatnot, i have some very bad news. In order to attach any kind of connector to charge the tablet with the dongle attached it would mean soldering a wire to four of the pins on the connector on the TABLET SIDE of the pcb, UNDERNEATH the connector (the really fine pitch pins). Maybe i will have to take a picture to show what is needed.
Suffice to say chances of a mod that can be completed by most people out there is very low. I will continue to try to find a solution.
The red square shows which pins would need to solder the 15v+, the ground could be soldered to any of the grount points. (+5v to each of the three pins or +15v to all three)
Additionally, i have been doing some work on the pinout, trying to clean up the information we currently have. No offence to bjonston115 but his thread is confusing since every source has pins labled differently and there is info scattered everywhere. Bear with me as i try to sort the mess out and make something we can all use
You are so lucky. Wish I had a spare. My main hope is to determine who makes the connectors (if possible), and what pins are used inside that connector, along with how it's mounted.
My desire, is to procure a connector, to add to the dongle shell, and the wiring, so I can permit the tablet to be charged while the dongle is in use.
When I drive 14 hrs to FL, my battery will run out, mid trip. So far, my only solution is to carry an external GPS to use while the TP charges.
Looking forward to your teardown.
Bob
Images. Took as many pics as i could as i was removing bits n pieces. If you want a picture of a specific part let me know. Pictures uploading, give me a minute or two...
I think a power mod should be straightforward. The dongle shell looks "thick" enough to accomodate a USB female Type A connector, mounted orthogonally. You'd want one with right-angle contacts similar to the one below, so you can let it "bottom out" against far side of the dongle shell. For aesthetics, I'd dremel the opening at the back side of the dongle rather than front, but this depends on your car mount.
The next step is to solder jumper wires from USB's power and ground pins to appropriate pins on 40-pin connector. Since USB adapter for TF101 is same for Prime/300, we can assume pin-out for USB functions is still same. Somebody already posted partial pin-out in another thread.
Soldering to the USB contact isn't a big deal, but to the finer-pitch 40-pin connector would take a bit of finesse.
Note: TF101/201/300 can charge with [email protected]
@pileot: Suggest taking a caliper and measure inner and outer thickness of dongle (ie w/ and w/o the shell thickness).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-USB-sh...ale-socket-Connector-PCB-Socket-/260991770971
unfortunately i dont have access to calipers, far as i can measure outside thickness is about 3/4 maybe slightly less, inside thickness is about 1/8 inches. sorry i cant be more accurate.
im assuming you want to throw a USB on the PCB? im not exactly sure how you want to connect that usb female connector, or what the purpose would be to do so.... Mind explaining just a little more?
Mount: Use dremel to create a rectangular hole (12.5mm x 5.2mm) at the back (or front) of the dongle. Use a short-body USB connector w/ right-angle contact like the previous, and mount it orthogonally, eg perpendicular to dongle facing. I think the short-body one has a length of about 0.5" so it should flush-mount. But if not, having it sticking out a bit isn't a big deal.
Purpose: To charge tablet w/ either [email protected] or [email protected] I would go with the second, since USB car chargers for it are widely available (that's what the iPad uses).
e.mote said:
Note: TF101/201/300 can charge with [email protected]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that the PC USB charge @~500ma takes forever and the TP has to be shut off, but what would the deal be with [email protected]
Would I be able to continue to use it as it charged, or would it need to be shut down too.
I'd probably use a USB 3 connector in place of the pictured USB 2
Thanks for the idea...I never thought of that....now all I got to do is to wait till I get my dongle.
Bob
ahh! makes sense.... sure would be nice if we had a full connector port. Maybe i could make a trip to an electronic component store and pick up some USB connectors.
If you just want to use it for power then dont we just need any sort of connection to the charging ports and the outside of the dongle? It doesnt have to be USB it could be anything as long as you have a male and female connection
pileot said:
unfortunately i dont have access to calipers, far as i can measure outside thickness is about 3/4 maybe slightly less, inside thickness is about 1/8 inches. sorry i cant be more accurate.
im assuming you want to throw a USB on the PCB? im not exactly sure how you want to connect that usb female connector, or what the purpose would be to do so.... Mind explaining just a little more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a neat tool in Google Play called Smart Tools. Possibly you could get better measurements of the items you want to measure by using the tool, and laying the item right on the screen. I have it installed, and think it was a well done app.
Bob
>I know that the PC USB charge @~500ma takes forever and the TP has to be shut off, but what would the deal be with [email protected]
No idea. That's something you can find out afterward. Having the mod in place won't hurt anything.
My guess is that it should be good enough to at least maintain battery level while on, which would be all that's needed in a car.
>It doesnt have to be USB it could be anything as long as you have a male and female connection.
You can use barrel power connector. But you'd have to make your own power cable, as opposed to using a standard USB cable to connect to the charger. Edit: On second thought, you can use a [email protected] car charger, then get a mating barrel connector.
http://google.com/search?q=12v+1.5a+car+adapter
from what i understand if you have the tablet on and try to charge with 5v it wont even maintain the current battery level. The tablet charges with 15v or something... having a barrel connector would ensure you dont accidentally plug a prime charger into another USB device frying it.
At that point if we could just get the barrel plug right to the power pins, fitting it in should be too hard....I am really interested iin this because I have 2 dongles coming tomorrow annd planned on hacking one....(I got two because one was RMA and they sent me a new one back 2 serials=2 Dongles)
BSMan1011 said:
At that point if we could just get the barrel plug right to the power pins, fitting it in should be too hard....I am really interested iin this because I have 2 dongles coming tomorrow annd planned on hacking one....(I got two because one was RMA and they sent me a new one back 2 serials=2 Dongles)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See edited first post. Because the top row does not go to the back of the PCB and i believe thats where the power is, it would be hard to throw a charging circut in there. I am still working on locating where all the pins in this thing go but it is very tiny, even with my finest nodes to test these circuts its very delicate work.
In the mean time, i will upload what i do have before i go to sleep tonight (maybe in another hour or so) so stay tuned!
Okay I will try and keep updated... if we could get a charging circiut in maybe a true car mount might be a project... at least for me, I already have a tablet window mount and with some changes I could affix a modified dongle at the bottom and just slide prime in for GPS + charging (again if we can get it to work)... I get mine today and disassembly will soon follow so I will post anything else I can to help progress
pileot said:
UDATE 5/5/2012
Ok, been doing some research and testing and whatnot, i have some very bad news. In order to attach any kind of connector to charge the tablet with the dongle attached it would mean soldering a wire to four of the pins on the connector on the TABLET SIDE of the pcb, UNDERNEATH the connector (the really fine pitch pins). Maybe i will have to take a picture to show what is needed.
Suffice to say chances of a mod that can be completed by most people out there is very low. I will continue to try to find a solution.
The red square shows which pins would need to solder the 15v+, the ground could be soldered to any of the grount points. (+5v to each of the three pins or +15v to all three)
)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay first off...have we all decided to stay low until we progress, i don't want this thread to die so soon...secondly...though I am sure you have done you research I still must ask, Are you sure? if we can provide any charge to the prime it will at least help a bit...also does anyone one else have other ideas other than charging?...
one idea I literally just thought of so it is not very thought out is, what if we remove the dongle case( as we have done) and integrate it into case.... we will need one of the 40-pin cables to wire onto it but maybe it could fit into some cases.
I will continue to try to think of more uses and mods and will update, meanwhile I hope that we can get some more input
Hmm, you've made quite a bit of progress there. I really wish I wasn't lazy haha, I need to learn to really work with electrical stuff.
So, then the dongle uses some of the pins that would be used for power from the dock? If the dock can pass power without changing the Prime, I should think the dongle could somehow. I mean, only certain pins are used for data right, so the dock and dongle should use the same ones?
Ok, firstly. Yes, im sure. Im sure of the pin placement and based on the best available information scattered around the internet, i know which pins the charger uses and i know where they are located on the dongle. I also know there is very little access to them (as seen in the pictures in OP)
as to integrating the dongle INSIDE the prime casing you would, essentially, be succoming to the same problem the internal antennas have: Metal blocking the signal. Sure its a more powerfull antenna however its encased in PLASTIC not metal, the signal it recieves is a lot stronger and there is less EMI caused by the metalic back plate. Short: Yes you can, no you dont want to.
Finally, the pins the prime uses to draw power are different than the pins the charger uses to supply power. Think one lane dirt road vs a 6 lane highway. On the highway you have dedicated lanes for traffic going in different directions. this is similar to how the prime dock connector works, the prime can turn off power to different connections depending if there is something plugged in reducing the chance of a short, spark, or power drain.
Hopefully this addressed your concerns, maybe when i have apropriate tools handy and a bit of time i may try soldering a connection to the dock connector and see how it functions but as you can see its REALLY tight. I will do my best, no promises.
I also plan, in the near future, to locate more of the data pins, see whats going on, maybe we can make a USB adapter for the dongle and use it in other devices as well! who knows, im thinking it just uses a standard USB interface but it will take more digging.
Subscribed as I see no need for the dongle unless you have enough power.
Though I was pretty sure you were sure I just wanted to ask.... but you did misinterpret my idea, I do not mean the Prime's casing but rather integrating the gps into a case which holds the prime...This is not to say that the gps is big or in the way but just an idea i had to help people with cases and a use for the gps, but since the usb uses different pins that looks unlikely as well i guess...well I will stay updated and if I learn anything I will post.
I would be more interested in adding a power jack of some sort to the dongle. So you can charge while using navigation. I already can not use my dock while plugged into the dongle. We need power!
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9