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I've got an aux input in my car, and today when I tried plugging in my GSIII, I got met with a faint but annoying whistling sound underneath my music.
It stops if there's no sound being sent over the wire, but the moment a notification (or music) starts playing, it comes up.
Car worked fine with my DX, and still works fine with my friends' iPhones, but I get the stupid sound with my brand new galaxy siii. Oddly enough, it works fine with headphones.
any ideas guys? I'm kinda stumped.
Search ground loop isolation. You are getting dirty power to your phone.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using xda premium
none
Do you have the phone charging through the cigarette lighter? You can get ground noise from there, and it will be transmitted through the phone to your stereo.
Hm. Let me try again without it charging, but that's strange. Why did my old DX not experience this?
Assuming that's the issue - will a different cable solve the problem?
edit: So I checked the phone without plugging it into the charger. Still get a whistling noise. It's really more like a high pitched hum. I notice that if I don't plug the plug in all the way it doesn't happen (but I think I only get one channel).
I'm getting the same thing, and it's driving me crazy. At first I thought my brakes were going bad in my car!
I've tried different audio players and apps, but it still always get the noise. The phone is not charging, and I did not get this with my old captivate either.
Any ideas?
Doesnt happen in my Porsche. I'm using Bluetooth audio though.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Thats strange. I will get that when charging, but only while nothing is playing.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
I am having the same issue. First time experiencing it though; never heard it with the iPhone, HOX, or NS
I'm using a line in cable, and when i jiggle it, i can hear the noise change tone at the same time. I have a feeling it might be because it's a regular stereo cable and the microphone combo jack on the phone is not working right with it. But that's just a guess.
It's pretty annoying and its making the phone unusable as a music player.
Happens in my Lamborghini (Dodge Caravan) when using a MP3 player. Usually, if I run my hand down the cable it clears as though it's some kind of static build up in the cable.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
try flipping the cable (putting the aux in side into the phone and the phone side in the aux in) it happens to me sometimes and if I flip the cable it clears it out I couldn't tell you why though. also make sure there isn't any dust in the ports or on the cable ends.
That noise you hear is most likely due to the electrical system in the car. I rent cars all the time for work and never know the shape the electrical sys is in so to resolve the issue I bought a Kensington Cable from amazon and now have CD quality sound from any music app including pandora & spotify.
Hope this helps.:cyclops:
rmelendez3 said:
try flipping the cable (putting the aux in side into the phone and the phone side in the aux in) it happens to me sometimes and if I flip the cable it clears it out I couldn't tell you why though. also make sure there isn't any dust in the ports or on the cable ends.
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Click to collapse
Unfortunately, my cable is RCA on one side (L+R channels split) and regular 3.5mm on other.
nyciz said:
That noise you hear is most likely due to the electrical system in the car. I rent cars all the time for work and never know the shape the electrical sys is in so to resolve the issue I bought a Kensington Cable from amazon and now have CD quality sound from any music app including pandora & spotify.
Hope this helps.:cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure what you mean by "the electrical system" and the "shape" of it. Could you clarify? As I said, I have no problems with other devices in this car.
I would usually suspect something wrong with the car, or maybe a ground loop, but I can plug in my Galaxy S (Captivate) or iPod with the same cable, same everything, just switching out the phone, and the noise goes away.
The way the noise cuts in and out between songs, and when I close the music app, it seems to only happen when the audio chip is getting a signal or is being energized. This is making me think that it may just be a noisy chip :crying:
I was on conf call with SGS3 plugged to AUX, no power charging was going on. And either noise canceling didn't work, or noise was getting in thru AUX line to receiving end. I didn't have problems listening, but ppl on the other end complained, and I had to mute the mic.
:crying:
cashyftw said:
doesnt happen in my porsche. I'm using bluetooth audio though.
Sent from my sgh-t999 using tapatalk 2
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Click to collapse
sorry! Could you speak up please? I couldn"t hear you over the sound of your e-penis
I am having the same problem. My HTC Thunderbolt never had this problem. Same car and cables, I get the hissing and popping until I play something. Then it goes away until I stop the music and then it comes back again. Weird and disappointing.
The problem comes from the 4-pin (TRRS) audio jack in the GSIII combined with presumably bad grounding in my 2007 Honda Accord, or the Aux adapter.
I fixed it with a simple DIY solution. I cannibalized a TRRS headphone jack and bought a TRS (3-pin) port from radioshack. I clipped off the jack with a generous portion of wire, then stripped them and cleaned them from their insulation (they are covered in insulating dye).
I connected 3 of the wires to the TRS connector, and taped the whole thing up. No more hum.
Also known as Road Noise. Where the power cable and audio input are too close to each other. Electrical current emits a small magnetic field which will hinder audio quality and promote road noise from the alternator.
This is a very typical senario in car audio install, when you run the power cable and rca right next to each other.
this buzzing noise happens to me every time i drive my car for the past 3 years:
solution: turn down the car volume. if you keep your car volume half-way, then you wont hear it as much, or you wont hear it at all.... you can make the phone volume as loud as you want though. also, as you accelerate faster, the noise gets louder. watch, try it.
I'm having trouble with my headphone jack. Audio only comes out if I start the sound on the speaker and then plug in. If I start with the headphones in I get nothing. Its odd. Running the new AOKP. Has been an issue since before that though. Not the usual static or tight jack problem.
So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
geetee360 said:
So figured I'd go ahead and add a thread about this here for us Sprint users that are experiencing the problem with the Aux cable. Its a known issue and I'd link to a couple other posts, but I'm still a "noob"
I was a little upset to find that I wasn't able to use my phone to Pandora in the car.
However....
Today I got it to work, and here is how: I had the stereo set to the CD player when i plugged the AUX cable in and the icon stayed in the notification bar. Then I launched Pandora and let it start playing. THEN I switched the stereo to AUX mode, and it played fine my entire trip to work. Still experienced the "hot plug" sound between tracks, but I think I can deal with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recall having an issue with my samsung headphones. They didn't work at one point, I rebooted and they were fine. The phone didn't even detect them for some reason. I've had no issues with aux in my car (aside from needing a new cable), however I thought it would be worth mentioning that my Note 2 had an issue with aux when it is on any AOSP ROMs. Selecting any app, even swiping the notification window down, sometimes even just leaving the music app and going back will stop the music from playing. The only solution for this was to go to the home screen unplug the aux start music playing and plug the cable back in and touch no other app. Again, it never did this with stock. I even went back to stock briefly because of this. AOSP seems to throw a fit with the aux cables.
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
infernosoft said:
I had issues with AUX today as well. Thought it was my specific phone but I'm relieved to know it's common....and perhaps a software issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just want my G3 to work as it should for such a simple function as the headphone jack/aux port.
I want to listen to music in my car without fannying around with different cables etc etc.
I had a Galaxy Note and S4, both played fine in the same car with the same cabling.
Shame on LG for releasing us a substandard product that cannot perform the most basic of tasks correctly.
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
R2DeeTard said:
I will say, i was extremely dissapointed when i plugged my shinny new phone into my stereo and the audio continued to come through the phone speakers. All other phones/devices work just fine in my car and there is no reason why my G3 shouldn't either.
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Click to collapse
My first feeling was confusion. I was also worried my headphones wouldn't work. But I was able to watch a beautiful high def video on my phone last night with my headphones on
Sent from my LGLS990
I just got this phone too, and although I love it, I was very sad to have this issue! I haven't had it on any other phone I have owned, so I certainly hope it is fixed in a future update. That and the video force close bug, but that is for another thread!
Guys, there is nothing wrong with the AUX port on your cars -- and they don't trigger via sound. They trigger via either conductive circuitry or via ohm load. Can you test if you are still seeing these problems when *not* charging? This issue is typically related to bad grounds. This happens to me at work when my phone is charging and I plug my headphones directly into my G3. If I pass the audio to my PC first (to the line-in,) and THEN to my headphones, the static is mostly gone.
So try unplugging the power source, and using different aux cables. Another factor is try plugging the power source into the same feed as the stereo. Sometimes this isn't that easy though.
What's happening on the back end with the sound changing between songs, etc, is that the audio codec, (the chipset,) is turning off to conserve battery. For me, when the chip turns on, it grounds the 3.5mm port just fine, and when it's off, AND I have power connected with headphones, I can get that whine -- depending on the scenario. So basically, this is by design -- an energy conservation tactic. I would be okay with them leaving the audio chip on the entire time headphones are connected.
Had this problem too and found that as long as I was charging the phone it would play like it should.
Yep, grounding issue. At work, routing the aux signal through my PC works just fine WHILE charging -- if I unplug, then I get all the machine noise.
In general, though, the headphone output is pretty crappy on this device. Even when it's "working great," there is still a faint amount of white noise that can be heard. Much higher than my HTC M7. The S5 had similar performance as the G3 though.
I just bought:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANDHBNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And plugged it into:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F474DVG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So when I get in my car, it connects to the dongle for music and the car's blue tooth for phone.
It's not perfect, but gets the job done.
wolfhelm said:
So I think I know the answer to this one.
It seems to have to do with how cars and some other devices treat aux inputs. For the most part it appears (at least in the case of my Prius) that with the input switched to aux the phone would not consistantly stay aux mode. What it seems like was happening is that the car doesnt actually 'activate' the aux port unless it senses a completed circuit (ie: audio playing). I have to believe this has to do with preventing feedback.
Unfortunately it seems the phone does the exact same thing. The headphone or aux symbol appears on insert of the cable because the phone senses the initial connection but then finds no load on the circuit thus assuming it is not connected and disables the port. You end up with basically an electronic stalemate. Neither one engaging cause they sense nothing from the other side. No load on the circuit.
Bear in mind this is completely dependent on the device you are connecting to your phone, as to whether it does what I'm talking about. Likewise, those experiencing popping or similar during song or track changes would basically be experiencing the same issue as during the song change the phone stops playing audio and your car kills the port. When the car kills the port, the phone kills the port, or is in the process of it when the next song starts.
To counteract this I bought an audio cable with a ground loop circuit built in. It is designed to remove the buzz from car aux audio due to the phone or other device being charged through the car's power system. But the added benefit is that it creates an artificial load on the line that the phone senses. Same idea as plugging in headphones as the earphone on the headphones creates a load on the line in the same way.
This is the audio cable I bought. Works like a charm every time, although one warning. I did experience one case of very loud static when unplugging it through the speakers in my car because of the fact that the car and the phone believe the circuit constantly is active and thus do not kill the connection to save your hearing. So be careful to only plug or unplug it when the input is not active or the car is off.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/
It does appear that Amazon has put the item under review for now, though I'm not sure why as mine works flawlessly, but any similar car aux noise reducing cable would work, assuming its decent quality.
An aux cable with an in-line volume control should peform similarly due to the load created by the potentiometer, although it wouldnt remove the charger buzz.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo23-3-3-Volume-Control-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B00COXA8Y4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just purchased this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406313911&sr=8-1&keywords=kensington+noise+reducing+car+audio+aux+cable
Working pretty well. Mainly solves the connectivity issues.
Still have the pop between tracks but it's much better.
Still have the "computer talk" garbage noise related to the display coming through the left channel.
I can live with this until LG or Android comes up with a fix.
aux problem
I guess I lucked out with my phone but then again maybe not. First off I will describe my setup, I have a 05 Subaru WRX with stock 6cd changer head unit ( no aux port ) I installed a Harmon Kardon Drive + Play iPod dock. This allows me to remote control my iPod and comes with a display that shows tracks and such. It works by FM transmitter but has an optional wire which I have that connects directly between the antenna and the stereo so you get little to no loss of signal. Between the AUX and my phone I connected a PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise device. My previous phone was an LG Optimus G which I loved, when I hooked this phone up I could listen to Pandora/TuneinRadio through my car speakers and upon making/receiving a call I would hear the call through the car speakers and when I talked the phone mic. would pick up my voice. When I attempt this with the G3 I get no popping between tracks but the phone mutes the mic and when I say mute I don't mean the mute button comes on I mean the other person can't hear me. I found if I unplug and plug the phone in during the call eventually the mic works again, but to do this while driving defeats the purpose of hands free calling. Does anyone else have this problem? (or a solution).
Click to open expanded view
gorillaz1 said:
Yeah I have it as well...I've found if I start Spotify, then plug in the AUX cord from my car, it works fine.
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Click to collapse
Works for me, thank you.
Mines does not work at all, with headphones or aux Jack, now I have to get Bluetooth headphones and bluetooth radio for car
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Do we know if LG is working on this issue? Or if it is something that can even be fixed with an update? I'm getting tired of messing with the cable just to play music in my car, and I don't want to have to buy extra accessories to get the job done.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Srambo217 said:
Bumping this thread because I just started having issues. Last night I was listen to music with headphones and my device kept turning itself down. I thought it was Tasker at first but it kept happening. Today at work I wanted to listen to music on headphones again and the sound would only come through my device. I'm going to try an aux and other headphones when I get off work, but does anyone know if a system restore will fix this? I'm rooted with TWRP, I just don't want to wipe it for nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They fixed it with ZV6. If you're already on ZV6 then I have no idea.
Sent from my LGLS990 using XDA Free mobile app
hi guys, basicallynim wondering if anybody else is experiencing the issues that i am.
Essentially im ecstatically happy with my z2, except the headphone port seems faulty. While driving i use the 3.5mm jack on the z2 to connect tk the car.
This is when i noticed the faults with the headphone port. If i insert a 3 or 4 pid connector, either a 3.5-3.5 cable, a standard 3pin headphone connector, or a 4 pin headset, a slight nudge on the connector disconnects the headphones/cable and music stops. Sometimes, google now gets triggered as well. The same things happen if i twist the jack, whatever is connected. It also seems quite loose, and there is no positive click when a jack is inserted.
I would upload a video showing what happens, but my only video camera is in my z2.........
It has also not been submerged/wet at all, and is kept in a case (i tested the jack without the case as well, but it still happens)
In my brand new Z2 I also don't hear that click when inserting headphones but they are in the deep all the way. I tested 4 different earphones and speakers but none gave me any problems(I was twisting jack and trying to move it but connection was too tight), no loss of sound. I think you should get your Z2 serviced or replaced. Also I have a question. When you plug in normal headphones or speakers(not the noise cancelling ones), do you get a notification saying that you connected them or not? I only get something like this when Smart Connect is enabled...
I have issues with jack too. When you pulg in headphones, it sometimes wont recognize that something was plugged in, but if you try to twist the jack in the phone, it may get working (the sound is clear, no loss). The problem is when you put the phone in a pocket and walk, the jack is moving there so it is very likely to stop working and u have to twist it again.
When I bought the phone, I had no problems with it, but after first water test (which resulted fine, there was no water inside), the problem started.
Got the phone for 2 months and the issue still persists.
My solution is plugging in, search for the right spot before it starts worrking and walk with phone in a hand, holding the cable so it wont move in the jack.
i got it replaced in the end, had the new one for 2 weeks with no issues, so definitely a hardware fault.
Headphone jack not working after submerging in the water
Hi,
I submerged my xperia z2 last night in the swimming pool. It's been 12 hours since I submerged my phone. Every thing is running perfectly except for my headphone jack. The first time I used my earphone there's small amount of water coming out from the hole. The headphones is not working because it's not fully dried from water? I tried cleaning it up and blowing some air for some particles to get dry but it still not working.
I need help please because my phone is not insured because I bought it online
What should I do?!
I got my z2 last Tuesday and my headphones (Logitech UE 350) were working perfectly until I tried using them today. For some reason they aren't being recognized anymore and the music just keeps playing through the phones speakers.
I tried plugging them into my old iphone and they work fine. I also tried plugging in another pair (Shure SE215) into both phones and they work fine. Except on the z2 it makes a clicking sound whenever I change songs now.
Does anybody know any way to fix this? Or could it be a faulty headphone jack?
Could be a number of things mate. Firstly, check and see the headphones are not physically damaged and even make sure that the microhpones in the in-ear pieces aren't affected by water exposure. Next check the headphones out by moving the wire around while they're plugged in and see how the sound comes out and if the phone reacts to any movements. When I used my phone in water even after hours of drying the headphone jack still wasn't dry so even the slightest movement switched tracks etc. Alternatively, it could be a headphone jack fault in the sense that it may be shorting? Or the 3.5mm 5pin connector on the headphones itself is damaged. It could also simply be a software glitch. Go into "Sounds" in your settings and change what kind of accessory it detects the headphones as. Try "Other", it may solve your problems. Alternatively take it into a Sony store or a phone shop and see if there's anywhere with a similar headset which you could test out.