I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
please elaborate
speedman2202 said:
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello speedman and OP.
Speedman, can you please elaborate on your answer.
I am refering to this part of your answer ".... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... ".
The reason I am asking is that I had epiphany two days ago that didn't end well, but the journey was rewarding.
I was thinking, ok Kindle 3 (keyboard) has a better screen that nook ST (contrast). I really like my rooted nook. Both things are made in China, by same manufacturer.
I will make an uber device and fit a kindle 3 screen on nook. (I am not a technical person, but i do love my rooted nook, may he rest in peace).
I was really close, and was able to connect kindle screen to nook simple touch battery and motherboard. And it worked, it showed nook screen on my half opened kindle keyboard. Unfortunately, I got overzealous in attempt of removing screen from nook simple touch (bloody silicone), and screen broke. At this point all my confidence was gone. I reassembled kindle 3 fast, so at least i have one device safe.
So, my question is, if i actually try to do this again (30 gbp for nook st these days), will i have touch capabilities, that is: where is the bloody infrared, on the eink screen? haven't seen anything special there....
I was so happy when I sow OP question.....and than cold shower......
The infrared touch module is attached to the bezel of the Nook, has no connection to the e-ink screen. I think that the panels are identical as far as specs, not sure about the connections though. Any difference in contrast has to do with the software, not the panel itself.
OB
Sent from my Evo V 4G using Tapatalk 2
dkuku said:
I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont do it - I have also ordered ED060SCE and the seller send me ED060SC7 - I put it in the device and it didn't work. I ordered later a second one and I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd - I ordered a second nook with broken lcd and in this unit the new lcd worked like charm
dkuku said:
I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
trurlo said:
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
dkuku said:
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
trurlo said:
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
dkuku said:
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
trurlo said:
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as I look close then I see they aren't connected to GND - I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
dkuku said:
I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, that helps a lot - while they might not be connected to GND, they seem to be organized in a simple 2x2 matrix - I can see a path connecting two outer rings in the upper part of the PCB - that would mean I can extend these 2 buttons easily with a 3-pin connector. That would be enough.
I will let you know if it works out.
The question of keyboard stuff is continued here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2434722
trurlo said:
I will let you know if it works out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the result. Thanks for your help. And thanks to Renate for confirmation of the pinouts.
I think maybe put a screen Kindle 3 in Nook. Datasheet are almost identical. Waveform is in firmware 1.2.1 for display...
I can confirm the e-ink screen for Kindle Keyboard can be put into Nook Simple Touch, working beautifully. Just be careful when taking NST apart, because the e-ink screen is VERY tightly glued to the back panel, using some kind of strong double sided tape. I ended up cracking it...
Related
This is a topic which I don't really like to talk about, but I now want to take the approach to get it outa my mind: The backlight of my soft-key search button does not fully shut down. That is, if I let the phone sit until the lights of the soft-keys (home, menu, back- and search button) shut down, I still see a dimmed light behind my search button. It annoys me.. I know I'm a picky girl.
Is that a hardware failure or do you guys have that, too? I'm convinced it's NOT caused by my current ROM (running DisarmedToaster). Can you recommend an app which will test my phone for hardware failures?
I bought my EVO 3D with blood money and would not really like unrooting and putting the phone into original warranty state to go beg the company I bought it from for a replacement. Please help a desperate lady!
SecUpwN said:
This is a topic which I don't really like to talk about, but I now want to take the approach to get it outa my mind: The backlight of my soft-key search button does not fully shut down. That is, if I let the phone sit until the lights of the soft-keys (home, menu, back- and search button) shut down, I still see a dimmed light behind my search button. It annoys me.. I know I'm a picky girl.
Is that a hardware failure or do you guys have that, too? I'm convinced it's NOT caused by my current ROM (running DisarmedToaster). Can you recommend an app which will test my phone for hardware failures?
I bought my EVO 3D with blood money and would not really like unrooting and putting the phone into original warranty state to go beg the company I bought it from for a replacement. Please help a desperate lady!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine has done that since the day I bought it, although I bought mine used so I just dealt with it. It looks more like bleed from the backlight on the display but i'm not sure. It must be pretty common if we both have it.
richyrocket said:
Mine has done that since the day I bought it, although I bought mine used so I just dealt with it. It looks more like bleed from the backlight on the display but i'm not sure. It must be pretty common if we both have it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for stating this, exactly what I was talking about! Kind of a small release to hear I didn't buy faulty hardware. Do we have other readers here who can confirm that this behavior is normal?
I'll head out to the phone store today to double check. Still, does an app exist to check for hardware failures?
Yes no faulty equipment, it is normal on every single Evo.
( Don't ask for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh)
flashallthetime said:
Yes no faulty equipment, it is normal on every single Evo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You just saved my whole HTC experience. Thank you soo much! How come this is the case on every EVO? Isn't that something draining the battery?
No it is actually bleeding from the main screen, I guess there's a small gap between the search button and the screen
( Don't ask for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh)
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Jsparta26 said:
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use your phone in the dark. Watch until soft buttons stop glowing. See the light behind the search button?
Mine has it too.
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using xda app-developers app
Jsparta26 said:
I noticed that too, but only when I boot up my phone, then the problem goes away after it gets past the boot animation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn the backlight of touch buttons off using kernel tuner and keep screen on, you will notice light behind search key.
Yeh, methinks it's standard in all our phones fixed mine when i was replacing my digitizer (put a bit of plastic behind the search key to stop the overspill)
dessolator666 said:
Yeh, methinks it's standard in all our phones fixed mine when i was replacing my digitizer (put a bit of plastic behind the search key to stop the overspill)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you void your warranty through opening it? How about the buttons responsiveness afterwards? If you provide a detailed HowTo, you'll get another +1. :thumbup:
SecUpwN said:
Did you void your warranty through opening it? How about the buttons responsiveness afterwards? If you provide a detailed HowTo, you'll get another +1. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeh, warranty gone after opening it.... though now that I think of it... there may be a way around that. Namely I replaced the entire digitizer so I needed to take it apart fully, however since all the connections and cables are at the top of the screen and the buttons are (obviously ) on the bottom you could lift the digitizer up from the bottom and fix it without messing with the screws in the back (the one that voids your warranty).
To actually do this you will need:
Heat gun(or decent hair drier) anything with 500w or above should be plenty
Some good double sided adhesive tape (probably won't be able to reuse the original one)
A case opener tool (to lift the digitizer)
A piece of plastic or anything else opaque and nonconductive
Procedure:
heat up all the edges of the digitizer evenly (don't cook them, just heat them up )
Using a case opener tool get in between the digitizer and the aluminium chassis starting at the bottom and work your way up to the top
When the bottom and sides are free gently lift the digitizer with the top as a hinge point heating it up if necessary.
Ta da! You can see the inner workings of the buttons
Notice that the buttons have pieces of transparent plastic leading light from the LEDs to the actual surface the light overspill happens around the search button so I put a tiny piece of plastic around it (there are probably more elegant ways around this... but I'm not that elegant to begin with so this worked just fine.
Cut out thin strips of tape and put them on the edges of the digitizer where the old adhesive was (or reuse the old adhesive if you can)
Close up the phone and there you have it... your warranty should still be valid... tho if any1 opens the phone up they will probably notice the extra piece of plastic (or whatever you used)
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
dessolator666 said:
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would actually be the coolest contribution I've seen in a ling time! Are you really willing to do that for our EVO community? If you did, you'd be our king.
Don't worry, it's on every EVO 3D. From GSM to CDMA.
The light bleed is from the screen back light. It does give the phone a cheap feel sometimes, but it's a common problem.
It's not as prevalent on cm10 with inverted gapps
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
flashallthetime said:
It's not as prevalent on cm10 with inverted gapps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How come?
SecUpwN said:
How come?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Inverted gapps has black backgrounds so the screen bleeding is reduced
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
---------- Post added at 10:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ----------
I can drastically reduce screen brightness which helps, there's still some bleeding
(Don't ask me for help as I couldn't care if your phone explodes, eh! )
dessolator666 said:
Yeh, warranty gone after opening it.... though now that I think of it... there may be a way around that. Namely I replaced the entire digitizer so I needed to take it apart fully, however since all the connections and cables are at the top of the screen and the buttons are (obviously ) on the bottom you could lift the digitizer up from the bottom and fix it without messing with the screws in the back (the one that voids your warranty).
To actually do this you will need:
Heat gun(or decent hair drier) anything with 500w or above should be plenty
Some good double sided adhesive tape (probably won't be able to reuse the original one)
A case opener tool (to lift the digitizer)
A piece of plastic or anything else opaque and nonconductive
Procedure:
heat up all the edges of the digitizer evenly (don't cook them, just heat them up )
Using a case opener tool get in between the digitizer and the aluminium chassis starting at the bottom and work your way up to the top
When the bottom and sides are free gently lift the digitizer with the top as a hinge point heating it up if necessary.
Ta da! You can see the inner workings of the buttons
Notice that the buttons have pieces of transparent plastic leading light from the LEDs to the actual surface the light overspill happens around the search button so I put a tiny piece of plastic around it (there are probably more elegant ways around this... but I'm not that elegant to begin with so this worked just fine.
Cut out thin strips of tape and put them on the edges of the digitizer where the old adhesive was (or reuse the old adhesive if you can)
Close up the phone and there you have it... your warranty should still be valid... tho if any1 opens the phone up they will probably notice the extra piece of plastic (or whatever you used)
On a similar note my gf's digitizer is busted so I will be replacing it some time this or next week and could probably demonstrate this with photos before I actually replace the darn thing (assuming I can get ahold of a decent camera)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe it can be done without opening the back. If I'm not mistaken, that's where the connector is and it can't be accessed from the front. I could be wrong though
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
HermanV0929 said:
I don't believe it can be done without opening the back. If I'm not mistaken, that's where the connector is and it can't be accessed from the front. I could be wrong though
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sure it can be done... because you have to do pretty much exactly that when replacing the LCD or digitizer
I have a very specific question with regards to replacing the charging port on the i777. I have searched threads discussing charging port replacement, but was unable to find anything about this specific issue. I am currently going through my first repair on my i777 that needs a new charging port. I bought the replacement on ebay, but something stood out once I compared it to the original charging port I took out. On the original there is a small rubber piece hanging down (around where the screw holes are). On the replacement piece it's just a metal piece hanging down in the same place. Do I need to have that rubber piece on the replacement charging port? Would it even affect the functionality of the phone? Is there a way to take the rubber piece off the original and transfer it to the replacement, or should I just buy one with the rubber piece on? If someone has asked this question already forgive me, but I did not see it in the thread I skimmed through.
Here is a pic of both them side by side. The top one is the original and the bottom is the replacement I got from ebay.
farm8.staticflickr (.com) /7281/9735538853_4e701482f8_o (.jpg)
It would not let me post link yet so just remove parentesis and spaces to view picture link.
That gray part is for waterproofing the microphone I believe. It just slides off of the old part and onto the new one, just be careful. Also if you have no signal, by now you may have already found the following thread. I had to do this a couple of weeks ago to get a signal: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1950114&page=5 I'll try harder to match up the part numbers next time!
iXNyNe, please let us know if the newegg part works, or if you end up needing to modify it (see link in above post), or purchase another.
iXNyNe said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2C51D87922 just ordered this. [...]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cyril279 said:
iXNyNe, please let us know if the newegg part works, or if you end up needing to modify it (see link in above post), or purchase another.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'll report back once i have them
i already took the phone apart just to peek around inside, the part looks just like what's already there. the picture shows some teal/aqua colored tabs towards the bottom, im assuming these are peel off for an adhesive (there did seem to be an adhesive holding the part in place).
based on that link mentioned i would say that cutting is a little extreme, it looks like they cut the board in half, which is definitely NOT how it comes stock.
again i'll report back once i've got the chips. and for under $8 with free shipping i cant really complain even if they dont work out.
The only thing you're actually cutting (electronically) is the ground plane of the board shared by the antenna/radio and the charge port. In short, there's a super low risk of messing anything up, unless you use a sawzall to complete the job.
I assume that it was more cost effective for Samsung to put those items on the same board, but it's a punk move to attach a known replacement part to an antenna that varies by region. Either way, I'm glad to know that the hack is an option but I'd be happier to know that the hack isn't necessary.
iXNyNe said:
i'll report back once i have them
i already took the phone apart just to peek around inside, the part looks just like what's already there. the picture shows some teal/aqua colored tabs towards the bottom, im assuming these are peel off for an adhesive (there did seem to be an adhesive holding the part in place).
based on that link mentioned i would say that cutting is a little extreme, it looks like they cut the board in half, which is definitely NOT how it comes stock.
again i'll report back once i've got the chips. and for under $8 with free shipping i cant really complain even if they dont work out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just wanted to report success. The part from new egg worked and was really easy to swap.
I don't have the right size sim card anymore since switching my primary carry, so I can't test reception, but otherwise everything is working (charging, wifi, Bluetooth, etc)
P.s. I did not modify the item I received (no cutting) and it is a 2.3 where the original I removed was a 2.2. I've saved the 2.2 just in case something comes up.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Thanks, but I'm afraid that we won't know whether the replacement part is a proper replacement until there is a sim-card involved. Reception is the rub (see post below from the board-mod thread).
underhuggare said:
[...]I also replaced the original rev 2.2 with rev 2.3 which fixed the usb port but gave me very unstable and poor reception. [...]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
iXNyNe said:
Just wanted to report success. The part from new egg worked and was really easy to swap.
I don't have the right size sim card anymore since switching my primary carry, so I can't test reception, but otherwise everything is working (charging, wifi, Bluetooth, etc)
P.s. I did not modify the item I received (no cutting) and it is a 2.3 where the original I removed was a 2.2. I've saved the 2.2 just in case something comes up.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cyril279 said:
Thanks, but I'm afraid that we won't know whether the replacement part is a proper replacement until there is a sim-card involved. Reception is the rub (see post below from the board-mod thread).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll see if I can find a friend with a full size Sim over the next few days and test the reliability. But honestly I'd have to it may be better for people to find a rev 2.2
But for anyone who no longer uses the phone for cell service, the new egg part works great for a cheap and easy charge port replacement.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
I ordered a screen/digitizer assembly to replace mine because its cracked. I didn't want to disbond the digitizer so I ordered the whole assembly.
When I installed the new. assembly, the screen wont come on and the phone wont boot. Here is where thing started to get interesting:
1. Boot the phone with the old screen assembly and wait until the home screen shows then turn off screen.
2. Disconnect the old screen at this moment and connect the new one while the phone in sleep mode.
3. push power button to wake screen and its working and fully functional.(New one)
If I tried to reboot the phone the new screen wont come back on again. I also tried to reset and RUU and it still wont work.
Please let me know if you have any suggestions. I am in the process of returning the screen and getting another one, but i am still worried if I will be going through the same issue. One thing I didn't like about the phone is the cheap trashy components. So easy to brake and not made to be worked on.
I think I found the problem.
Well. Taking a closer look at the ribbon cable for the LCD and it appears to be the same color, but if you follow the lines, it does not look the same. I am currently waiting on a screen from a different seller and hoping to be the right one. I will keep you updated as I go forward.
Too many views, but no comment. I just hope this post going to help someone in the future. Keep in mind that sellers doesn't specified the kind of the LCD which is creating the troubles.
I am going to attach some photos to make it little clear. Keep in mind that I have HTC One for AT&T USA.
Did you ever replace the screen? I need to take mine apart and put a new battery and USB port in it. I'd like to know how pulling the screen went for you, if it was done.
xartic12 said:
Did you ever replace the screen? I need to take mine apart and put a new battery and USB port in it. I'd like to know how pulling the screen went for you, if it was done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that good. I watched a YouTube video that helps a Little. You have to be really careful. Watch it and let me know if you need any additional help. Removing a broken screen not that bad since its broken. Be really careful when you order your new screen because I am having trouble to fine the right one. Mine PN: 60H00741-00P . There are many PN: 60H00742-02M that aren't working for me.
Forgot the video links
To disassemble : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZFAsgjCunc
To reassemble: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5KNmDeJ4Ww
medoo313 said:
Not that good. I watched a YouTube video that helps a Little. You have to be really careful. Watch it and let me know if you need any additional help. Removing a broken screen not that bad since its broken. Be really careful when you order your new screen because I am having trouble to fine the right one. Mine PN: 60H00741-00P . There are many PN: 60H00742-02M that aren't working for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem I have isn't the screen, but rather the battery and the USB port.. I have found both for about $20 each, but just didn't want to trash a basically brand new HTC.
Did you use a suction cup or pry it out?
xartic12 said:
The problem I have isn't the screen, but rather the battery and the USB port.. I have found both for about $20 each, but just didn't want to trash a basically brand new HTC.
Did you use a suction cup or pry it out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a plastic sharp tool and you need to find the spots where you have to press on it to get it released. If you look at the first video, you will see where he marked it. those are the lock tabs that hold the assembly. The worst could happen is you may put a few dents in the plastic frame. You can order this part for around $20. A suction cup may works for you as well. Consider giving it little heat to lose the adhesive. Let me know if you still have any further questions.
Good luck
Where to get the right LCD in USA
I finally found a good supplier in USA for the proper kind of LCD. I spoke to him on the phone and I sent some pictures of my LCD. He has LCD part number 60H00741-00P that I been looking for. The website is https://www.gounlock.com/ If you ever call, ask for Jacky.
Hello XDA Community!
I seem to be having a serious issue with my phone and cannot seem to find a solution online, so I am hoping that someone here will be knowledgable enough to assist me!
When I slide my keyboard out on my sk17i, my screen refuses to change orientation or respond to my touches. Having tested this further, it seems that it is the screen itself that will not change, but keys pressed and touches are registered. I have figured out that I can slide the keyboard out about 40% (just over the bottom row of letters) and the screen seems to change orientation to landscape AND responds visually to my touches. Any more than that and it just stops.
I looked online and someone suggested passing a magnet (fridge) over the keyboard. I did that and it worked once for about a minute. After that it returned to this state and there doesn't seem to be anything I can do about it. I have just put in an order for new facias and a new hardware keyboard to repair it as I have had it since the day it was released and some components are getting on a bit.
Does anyone know what the issue is? I only can think of one thing and that is a flex cable issue, but I cannot be sure at all...
I'd appreciate any help that can be given!
At first glance, yes, seems like a flex cable/ribbon issue. You screen will remain frozen when the keyb is completely open because the framebuffer stops receiving signal from the motherboard. It wont take long until your screen shows artifacts or goes completely blank even when the keyb is closed. Your touch digitizer might also be affected by a bad flex cable.
I suggest you replace it as soon as possible, but don't try to do it yourself unless you have experience repairing phones. I tried to do mine and ruined the LCD display, making my repair cost three times as much
PD: magnet over the keyb? never heard of that.
Pixelado said:
At first glance, yes, seems like a flex cable/ribbon issue. You screen will remain frozen when the keyb is completely open because the framebuffer stops receiving signal from the motherboard. It wont take long until your screen shows artifacts or goes completely blank even when the keyb is closed. Your touch digitizer might also be affected by a bad flex cable.
I suggest you replace it as soon as possible, but don't try to do it yourself unless you have experience repairing phones. I tried to do mine and ruined the LCD display, making my repair cost three times as much
PD: magnet over the keyb? never heard of that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for that! The flex cable is out of stock right now, so that is quite worrying, I hope it lasts the next month or so! I think I should be okay with repairing it, since I've worked with very small and delicate electronics before in Engineering. Just will have to be super extra careful! Any advice about what to watch out for?
And yup, magnet seemed to work once, I saw it on a very old thread, but that was the only advice given there.
Well, good luck! Be extremely careful with the display though, the original display assembly has unprotected corners and borders on the LCD so it's very easy to break it, especially on the lower side near the softkeys. Replacement parts often come with plastic and/or metallic protectors on them, which help keeping the LCD safe. Guess SE never meant for people to crack the phone open hehe.
again, good luck with that.
Pixelado said:
Well, good luck! Be extremely careful with the display though, the original display assembly has unprotected corners and borders on the LCD so it's very easy to break it, especially on the lower side near the softkeys. Replacement parts often come with plastic and/or metallic protectors on them, which help keeping the LCD safe. Guess SE never meant for people to crack the phone open hehe.
again, good luck with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aah okay! I guess I shouldn't bother replacing the facia then, don't want to break the screen! Thank you once again!
Well, all my parts have now arrived, so tonight I'll be attempting this! Hopefully this goes well and fixes the problem!
ECGadget said:
Well, all my parts have now arrived, so tonight I'll be attempting this! Hopefully this goes well and fixes the problem!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best of luck to you, mate.
Replacing a flex ribbon/cable on the mini pro is no easy task, requires patience and steady hands when sticking the big square part onto the metallic slider while making sure all of the other components (home button, camera, led and sensors) keep aligned in place. Do it wrong and you're in for an even more tedious mission haha.
PD: here's a crappy pic from when I did mine
Pixelado said:
Best of luck to you, mate.
Replacing a flex ribbon/cable on the mini pro is no easy task, requires patience and steady hands when sticking the big square part onto the metallic slider while making sure all of the other components (home button, camera, led and sensors) keep aligned in place. Do it wrong and you're in for an even more tedious mission haha.
PD: here's a crappy pic from when I did mine
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Thanks for that! I was just struggling to take the motherboard off, and looking at the picture helped me see where I could try to pry it open!
Yeah, the mobo can be a b*tch to take off. Glad I could help. Be sure to tell us how it goes.
Pixelado said:
Yeah, the mobo can be a b*tch to take off. Glad I could help. Be sure to tell us how it goes.
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Click to collapse
Well, after a cracked front facia (thanks to the previous repair that I had on it two years ago), and my temperamental lights, my phone works a charm! Replaced the flex cable, motherboard mount and hardware keyboard. Once again, thank you so much for your advice, I have decided to hang around this place much more often!
Repaired two years ago? Wow, your phone is kind of a veteran haha, mine is about to turn 2yo in about two months. Gotta get a birthday cake.
Good to know everything went fine. See you.
Pixelado said:
Repaired two years ago? Wow, your phone is kind of a veteran haha, mine is about to turn 2yo in about two months. Gotta get a birthday cake.
Good to know everything went fine. See you.
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I've had my phone since two weeks before it was released in 2011 xD
I'm sure your phone will love the cake
Noticed a new glitch with my phone though... the softkey and keyboard lights start to light up when I switch the screen on, but as soon as the screen switches on the lights switch off?
Never heard of such problems. What rom are you on?
I am running a stock gingerbread 2.3.3 rom, just rooted it a year ago. No other changes, apart from shoving CWM onto it for backup/restore
Hey guys, I just saw this post after hours of frustration!, I recently changed my damaged slider mechanism on my sk17i and I had to transfer the ribbon cable from the one mechanism to the other but I glued it with 2mm adhensive that is used for screen, and the problem is when I open the phone it is always on landscape mode, like the phone thinks the keyboard is always out! Before I tried this repair
everything worked perfect
How the phone understands if the keyboard is out or not?
Please tell me what I could have done wrong, I would appreciate your help here!
Sorry for my bad english
Thank you in advance!!!
I've been trying to figure that out myself too, it seems to be some kind of optical sensor. Whatever it is, it just works for me hehe.
Pixelado said:
I've been trying to figure that out myself too, it seems to be some kind of optical sensor. Whatever it is, it just works for me hehe.
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And you dissasembled it and re-assembled with no problems?
r3izor said:
And you dissasembled it and re-assembled with no problems?
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Welcome to XDA.
Like Pixelado said, it is probably an optical sensor. My advice would be to disassemble the phone again (without unsticking the flex cable though) and make sure everything is back in its correct place. It make just be something is a little out of place, which is very easy to do! Good luck!
r3izor said:
And you dissasembled it and re-assembled with no problems?
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Yes sir. I have never re-used a flex ribbon though. I removed the broken factory ribbon and stuck a new one in. No problems.
Pixelado said:
Yes sir. I have never re-used a flex ribbon though. I removed the broken factory ribbon and stuck a new one in. No problems.
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Then as long as I dont know where the sensor is in order to find out my mistake, I am afraid my phone will be permanently on landscape :crying:
Thank you for your replies guys!
guys I need help, my phone dropped in water and apperiantly water managed to escape through the phone, and i turned it off immediatly and once i dried it out in a rice bowl for about 2 weeks, i turned it on and it had this 3D look on it and it yet had some bright dots on the screen and I thought it was water drops so i decided to dry it out more in a hair dryer and i put it on very hot and i kept on the phone for a couple of minutes and there was a yellow spot on the screen i think it got burnt or some thing and the company wont fix it for me under warrenty and I wanna fix it my self but i dont know what screen to buy
this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-For-Son...hash=item4b17a1b1c0:m:mKH1Z0fxHI9L7ZHldQ_fO-Q
or this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-So...528438?hash=item1eb5684536:g:LJAAAOSwKBVZrgWv
whats the difference between both and which one will solve my yellow spot problem?
First one is third party production, so not from Sony. Can be fine, but it's your choice.
Second is a ripoff. I would recommend to search for an original one but I'm sure you can find it cheaper then there.
harry_turtle said:
First one is third party production, so not from Sony. Can be fine, but it's your choice.
Second is a ripoff. I would recommend to search for an original one but I'm sure you can find it cheaper then there.
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hmmmm what i meant was, the first one is only screen and the second is with frame or some thing, whats the difference?
buy screen include frame, speaker, button, headset port and usb port, make sure waterproof seal is good. so you only move phone motherboard, camera and battery. buy Screen include all of them is more better quality of screen, beware bad quality screen is possible ghost touch (lifetime touch screen is bad). I also specially services xperia. I recomended you buy screen like in my attachment (like phone without machine).
and for backdoor/backcover if want to waterproof can use original addesive, usually I use Dextone silicone sealant (pict in attach), green fast drying - orange more time to dry. dab a little silicone on the frame to be taped
not too much, and leave 10 minutes before sticking backcover
I hope its help.
sorry for my english
Alvian_P said:
buy screen include frame, speaker, button, headset port and usb port, make sure waterproof seal is good. so you only move phone motherboard, camera and battery. buy Screen include all of them is more better quality of screen, beware bad quality screen is possible ghost touch (lifetime touch screen is bad). I also specially services xperia. I recomended you buy screen like in my attachment (like phone without machine).
and for backdoor/backcover if want to waterproof can use original addesive, usually I use Dextone silicone sealant (pict in attach), green fast drying - orange more time to dry. dab a little silicone on the frame to be taped
not too much, and leave 10 minutes before sticking backcover
I hope its help.
sorry for my english
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Click to collapse
see this link tell me if thats what you meant , and if the price is right and if it looks good quality stuff cuz i really dont know , I would be greatful if you do:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-So...528438?hash=item1eb5684536:g:LJAAAOSwKBVZrgWv
madshark2009 said:
see this link tell me if thats what you meant , and if the price is right and if it looks good quality stuff cuz i really dont know , I would be greatful if you do:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-So...528438?hash=item1eb5684536:g:LJAAAOSwKBVZrgWv
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Click to collapse
its to expensive. buy from china its ok, I use from china, ask to seller is LCD include (frame + speaker + usb port + sim card) flap or not. And u can change your phone colour with new frame colour,
sorry for long to reply. btw where do you stay?
Alvian_P said:
its to expensive. buy from china its ok, I use from china, ask to seller is LCD include (frame + speaker + usb port + sim card) flap or not. And u can change your phone colour with new frame colour,
sorry for long to reply. btw where do you stay?
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cant find a such screen with speaker and usb port...