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I just pulled my GTab from my mold and plan on producing carbonfiber hardshells similar to the SPECK cases for iPads. I have done this before for my black Macbook. I replaced the back of the LCD and did the lower case both in carbon fiber. The lower did not turn out as good as I expected (due to too many undercuts) but the top is flawless.\
I am getting ready to order some more CF so I can cast the case for the Gtab.
Question now is will there be any interest here for cases.
I have to order in bulk (resin and CF) so my asking price of $75 is straight cost and will be happy to pass that on to the community.
PM any interest.
Hell yeah! Any pics of your work?
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0b5.1.1 using Tapatalk
Im interested, but wondering if this would be a clip on type or a direct replacement for the rear housing?
it would be clip on. Only issue I'm having atm is the power and volume rocker buttons. That area is so thin that valley cutting them would make them brittle and weak.
Once I solve that issue, I can begin the first master cast.
"Question now is will there be any interest here for cases."
Yup
I'm interested to see the final product. I'd be game (probably) to get one, assuming it would be like a Sedieo style.
(Also, I work in the mold industry as a CNC programmer/engineer. Let me know if I can be of any help.)
with a cherry on top!
Pictures please!
I'm very interested. Can't wait to see what it looks like.
I'm very interested!
After messing around with the master casting I've come to the conclusion that there is no way to correctly create a snap-on type case for the GTab. the Power and volume rockers leave no room on the side for proper casting and strength.
Did a test casting around the weak zones and even after oven curing the test, they snapped with very little effort. Even tried dual layer CF on the weak zones and there is just not enough surface area to make it strong.
Looking into picking up another GTab so I can pull the back off and cast a replacement carbon fiber back piece.
Seems like the only reasonable option now. Will post updates as I make progress with this.
After getting chewed out by wife over buying another GTab, I would like to put a call out to other owners. If anyone has a DEAD GTab and wouldn't mind "loaning" the back plate, I can get to work on trying another mold to create a backplate replacement. Unfortunately my Gtab is freshly skinned and really don't want to pull all that off to make a casting.
Is there a way to do it without casting over the buttons? Could you just leave one corner unprotected in a stylish fashion?
Can someone make a 3rd party back plate to fix the wifi? I would pay for one that fixes the wifi strength. I love the prime but, when I travel its hard to signal strength in some of he hotel rooms. or has anyone seen anything made already? I don't want to have wires all over the place.
Someone should design it, actually put it on. And install it for cheep.
You sir, would make some $
I would pay between $80 to 100 for a streamlined professional looking backplate.
Assuming it fixed GPS and wifi.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
benefit14snake said:
I would pay between $80 to 100 for a streamlined professional looking backplate.
Assuming it fixed GPS and wifi.
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+1
don't really care about GPS only wifi, but if it fixes GPS even better
David522d said:
Someone should design it, actually put it on. And install it for cheep.
You sir, would make some $
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If only making it is that easy lol. The back is where majority of electronics are (circuit boards, battery, wires, etc). Someone will need to make the same exact back mold with all the screw post so you can screw the electronics back in. That itself wont be cheap. And most people will not wanna do this and then risk damaging parts and even voiding warranty. So profit margin will be slim or even none.
---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:09 PM ----------
benefit14snake said:
I would pay between $80 to 100 for a streamlined professional looking backplate.
Assuming it fixed GPS and wifi.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
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OR just wait for the 700t with the proper back place along with higher res screen if you're going to pay 80-100 just for a back plate plus all the labor and warranty and damage risks.
it actually is as simple as taking the design to someone with a machine and paying them a few hundred dollars to produce about a hundred of them, then sell them online for double your investment.
ickkii said:
it actually is as simple as taking the design to someone with a machine and paying them a few hundred dollars to produce about a hundred of them, then sell them online for double your investment.
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From what I understand its not easy and takes a while to make a mold specially with all the mount holes having small brass nuts built into them. Also you are infringing on copyright laws if you do this. Unless I guess you sell it under the table. It's one thing to have one made for personal use but for mass production I would be careful.
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On another note not replying to yours but....Also to make a mold it would have to be plastic obviously and would have to be thicker to keep the rigidness of the device. That might deter buyers and then also some of your cases will no longer work. Also you would not be able to dock it anymore if you have a dock.
aznmode said:
From what I understand its not easy and takes a while to make a mold specially with all the mount holes having small brass nuts built into them. Also you are infringing on copyright laws if you do this. Unless I guess you sell it under the table. It's one thing to have one made for personal use but for mass production I would be careful.
---------- Post added at 04:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:42 PM ----------
On another note not replying to yours but....Also to make a mold it would have to be plastic obviously and would have to be thicker to keep the rigidness of the device. That might deter buyers and then also some of your cases will no longer work. Also you would not be able to dock it anymore if you have a dock.
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I for one would buy it in a heart beat if it was reasonable priced. As for not being able to use the dock anymore, I don't understand what your saying. Anyways, +1.
newellj79 said:
I for one would buy it in a heart beat if it was reasonable priced. As for not being able to use the dock anymore, I don't understand what your saying. Anyways, +1.
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What i meant was to have the same rigidity as the aluminum back you would have to make the plastic back thicker at probably 1mm to 2mm. So this will add to the entire thickness of the tablet making it too tight to fit in the keyboard slot. If you look in the cases thread if you have a skinomo back skin and screen protector that it becomes very difficult insert the tablet in to the dock.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
I dont think many of you realize.... EVERYTHING is screwed or glued to the back. Everything. The battery, the wires, theres several smaller boards that are screwed or glued in...
Attached is a pic of the back plate on its own. You would then need to basically remove the top 1cm or so, replace it with plastic or otherwise, and finish the whole thing off with some kind of paint or coating so it doesnt look hidious.
THEN you would have to open the prime, detach all the components (theres a lot of them), and reattach them to the new back and hope to God you didnt screw anything up.
There was a guy who wanted to get a quote for doing manufacturing a backplate out of resin or something, he didnt get enough people backing the idea. For something like this to fly you would need at least 100 people to say ya i'll throw $100 at this for parts and just getting the project rolling, and you would have to install it on your prime yourself.
pileot said:
I dont think many of you realize.... EVERYTHING is screwed or glued to the back. Everything. The battery, the wires, theres several smaller boards that are screwed or glued in...
Attached is a pic of the back plate on its own. You would then need to basically remove the top 1cm or so, replace it with plastic or otherwise, and finish the whole thing off with some kind of paint or coating so it doesnt look hidious.
THEN you would have to open the prime, detach all the components (theres a lot of them), and reattach them to the new back and hope to God you didnt screw anything up.
There was a guy who wanted to get a quote for doing manufacturing a backplate out of resin or something, he didnt get enough people backing the idea. For something like this to fly you would need at least 100 people to say ya i'll throw $100 at this for parts and just getting the project rolling, and you would have to install it on your prime yourself.
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Maybe they can just make some kind of window near the wifi antenna so the wifi can exit.... something...
Wouldnt it be easier to just use a dremel to cut a nice cut or even a design. Use some LEDs to customize it, thinking of xbox and 360 mods now thats how I modded my 360 cut a hole on top for bigger fan, temps went down 15 to 20c Then you could use lexon or plexiglass. Place that against the metal backplate and glue it to the backplate. Might work?
I want to try it.
I was thinking about using fiber glass. I'm pretty experience with custom fiber glass subbox.
I want to do some research about how things are screwed and glued first.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using xda premium
pileot said:
I dont think many of you realize.... EVERYTHING is screwed or glued to the back. Everything. The battery, the wires, theres several smaller boards that are screwed or glued in...
Attached is a pic of the back plate on its own. You would then need to basically remove the top 1cm or so, replace it with plastic or otherwise, and finish the whole thing off with some kind of paint or coating so it doesnt look hidious.
THEN you would have to open the prime, detach all the components (theres a lot of them), and reattach them to the new back and hope to God you didnt screw anything up.
There was a guy who wanted to get a quote for doing manufacturing a backplate out of resin or something, he didnt get enough people backing the idea. For something like this to fly you would need at least 100 people to say ya i'll throw $100 at this for parts and just getting the project rolling, and you would have to install it on your prime yourself.
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+1 exactly what ive been saying. Thanks for providing the image.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
nice info here
oduca said:
I want to try it.
I was thinking about using fiber glass. I'm pretty experience with custom fiber glass subbox.
I want to do some research about how things are screwed and glued first.
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That would be awesome! We all need this!
drvsbsm said:
Wouldnt it be easier to just use a dremel to cut a nice cut or even a design. Use some LEDs to customize it, thinking of xbox and 360 mods now thats how I modded my 360 cut a hole on top for bigger fan, temps went down 15 to 20c Then you could use lexon or plexiglass. Place that against the metal backplate and glue it to the backplate. Might work?
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Click to collapse
If you're going to cut I suggest you cut the 2 areas here. If you fail you can always put a skin on the back to cover the holes. Now I dont know if this will work as someone already tried drilling holes in this area but still had to run a wire from inside and then out the holes to get gps to work.
Someone just needs to make a hack that looks good and sell it for like $75 with a $150 core charge.. Then the person could send the core back, get a refund and someone could hack that one and have it ready to sell.. I would pay for one modded that looks factory..
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium
Does anyone know if this works?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsRqjG8i3Vw&feature=fvwrel
There is an additional issue...
In the "opened my prime" thread (if you dig through the 100+ pages) you find an additional issue... Interference. The backplate is not only blocking a signal, but also drowning it out in electronic noise.
Those of us who have tried putting a wire from the antennas outside the prime notice a very distinct improvment in signal strength. Soon as that wire gets to within an inch or so of the prime backplate all signal drops.
The holes would have to be large enough to account for this noise, and perhaps some sort of RF absorbant layer put between the antennas and the case.
Please do not get me wrong, i would LOVE to see an elegant yet simple solution however most people have not dug deep enough to find the reason Asus seems to have abandoned the prime is not because they want to, but because of unforseen design flaws.
On paper, great ideas, and i want you to succeed, im just giving you more information i have learned in my own quest for better signal strength.
So, as we all know the Omate TrueSmart is as waterproof as a leaky boat, or perhaps a sponge.
However, I don't think there are any other Horologists on the forum at the moment. ( wikipedia horologist http:// en.wikipedia.org /wiki/horologist ).
After looking at the "seals" on the case buttons, and the laughable o-ring that Umeox/Omate have chosen to use on the back, along with the piece of silicone flap that they are using to seal the SIM card... I have to say that expecting it to be water resistant to any degree is a bit laughable.
So, I have a solution, the same one used by Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Citizen, Seiko, etc.. etc...
* Liquid silicone sealant gel on the SIM card seal and flap.
* Replace the silicone o-rings for the watch back with a thin silicone gasket, with more sealant gel
* Retrofit and replace the button seals, or create black silicone button covers that better seal them
I'm going to have to look at the speaker port on the watchband. I don't know if there is a simple solution there to make it compliant for 1 meter depth without severely affecting the quality of the sound output from that port. A brief examination makes it seem that the port -might- be able to take IP67 conditions .. but without reinforcement, I doubt it could take the forces involved in a swim, waves, wakes, spas.
Still, I think I can put together a kit, and instructions that careful and diligent people could use to retrofit the TrueSmart to make it far more waterproof than the manufacturer does. The kit would cost between $15 and $25 US, mostly to cover the cost of making custom molds for the silicone gaskets. ( There is a local TechShop here in Austin, and I have a CNC mill to make the aluminum molds, and all the design experience and software I need. Even so, a small super-accurate mold is a couple hundred dollars worth of materials and work. )
If there is enough interest evidenced here on a poll, I'll make the kit.
Sincerely,
Martin Bogomolni
Maker, Horologist, Coder, and Machinist
Need to redesign the case so that the speaker is sealed as well.
I've read that the O-rings are different among different runs. If the shape of the part of the case they fit against is different as well, wouldn't that make this effort require potentially as many different molds as the number of firmwares Loki has been trying to contend with? Or is it just the ring that's been different?
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
Then that means I'll need to make two or three variants of the kit. This will also require some externally-visible way to identify the differences between various batches of TrueSmart watches.
Lokifish Marz said:
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
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I think, just an opinion, that if the gasket between the body and the back cover has holes for the screws to pass through it like on my Last of the Kickstarter Dev Eds, 1/8/1900, delivered first of the USA group in early Feb, then that gasket works if properly placed and screwed together. The housing on these is flat, without raised screw hole posts and no groove.
I think the main problem you are going to need to overcome is the buttons and the mic pinhole leaking.
The speaker, if it doesn't mind getting wet itself, provides no entry path into the body if the wire set going in has been properly sealed inside (white sealant on mine, I think). Water could destroy the speaker, OK maybe, but not the watch unless it can follow the speaker connections back up into the body. Where the band halves meet the body on both sides there is a hole through the body to let the cables through, sealed inside with some white stuff. Maybe sealed...
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
The speaker is inside the case (under the square "bump" in the backplate) and uses nothing more than double sided tape. It is partly held into place by the plastic insert.
What is that open slot for then, in the band on the speaker side ?
Where the sound comes out ?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Yep. (see attached image)
Yes I was also curious about how the waterproofness of the speaker and microphone port would be approached. But I'm definitely down for one of these.
For what it's worth, I've submerged (no more than 2ft) my NA 1gb/8gb OTS and used it in the shower after having opened the bottom. During the first week I was constantly checking inside the case for internal moisture and didn't see any. It's been a while, but I remember thinking the physical buttons looked like they would let water in if used while underwater, but that didn't seem to happen.
for giggles, my omate arrived with bad software, and only pulling the battery would fix it. I had first tried letting the battery die out but the vcom drivers didn't fully take until i pulled the battery, so the water seal warranty was moot from early on. I don't remember how long I waited, but I sent the following screen to cecilia and a few other mailboxes at omate for help with no response (surprise!) before pulling the battery and stepping through the restore guides.
Looking back, I can't even imagine how the bootloader got to be so trashed! Volume up and down you say?
I am in. Also shared on G+ and KS comments the poll, good luck!
Yep
I'm definitely in support of this. I created a kayaking app that is pretty useless with the watch the way it is... having this kit out there would be great.
Hi. I am a watchmaker (horlogist?) from Germany and its my daily job to make watches watertight.
I have access to professional measuring devices for checking the watches if they are sealed. It is testet via air pressure, no water. The watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
Further tests to locate the leak are made with water tests.
I havent received my pre ordered true smart yet (but I own a simvalley AW-414.go). Before I would test the true smart I would like to know how much pressure it could take before the screen brakes.
After the long wait and seeing this IPx7 drama unfold, I decided to just flip my TrueSmart on delivery - and flog it on eBay/Amazon without ever opening the box. Depending on the delivery timeline and other factors (such as the impending release of the Polar V800 and Garmin fenix 2) I may reconsider that strategy if this "aftermarket waterproofing" plan gains momentum.
I checked the option to be willing to pay for professional install (having waited this long - and the fact that the V800 is another $100 more expensive than the TrueSmart) but I'm more than happy to do the install myself if the kit is solid. From what I gather in the initial post, it's going to be a far sight better than the factory seal. So, if I keep my TrueSmart I'd be in for either the home install or the pro install option.
FWIW - I could care less about using this phone in **** Tracy mode [trademark pending]. For my money, stuff a grommet in the ports and glue/seal them in place - my goal is to use the device for training.
DerUhrmacher said:
HThe watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
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In a pressurized submersion test it will fill with water before anything else. The case was never tested beyond about 0.015 Bar and even then it wasn't tested properly (bare case, no buttons or straps and all the ports sealed in 15cm of water).
Them doing something as simple as not putting in the speaker right or the double sided tape not seal correctly on the speaker will negate any water resistance it may have had.
Had any luck looking into this?
I would definitely be interested in a kit to improve waterproofing...
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Me too ! I don't see a survey, maybe Tapatalk does not support surveys ?
I bought a NeverWet spray set from HomeDePot recently. They show how to treat an iPhone 5 by removing the back cover and spraying inside. I don't have an iPhone or I might try it. Wouldn't care...the stuff worked pretty good on my shoes though.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
In the meantime...
Hi horologists,
I was wondering: is there anything a layman could do in the meantime to, at least, improve the water sealing on the TrueSmart? I'm not interested in submerging it or taking a shower; I just don't want to be afraid that my watch will short if I get stuck in rain and put it in my pocket.
One of the things I obviously don't want to be doing is just smearing vaseline all over it as that'll ruin the silicone components, correct? I am currently purchasing silicone grease (dielectric so non-conductive) to improve the seals on the bottom and around the sim card case. What should I do about the buttons? Can I put more grease around their edges? Would vaseline be apprpriate there, since it's coming in contact with my skin and there seems to be no silicone gaskets? What's the best quick fix for buttons?
Sorry if these questions are stupid but... this is admittedly coming from a place of utter ignorance. : )
Take care and thanks very much.
Okay guys. As you all know, you can't paint aluminum. Spending a bit of time on Oakley forum, it dawned on me that you can duracoat or cerakote a phone. I have a gold a 2017u that is begging for a refinish. I hate gold, but love this phone. Just curious whether anyone has attempted such or if I will be the first monkey launched into space. Just had my X metal XX refinished and would love the gold to be gone. If we had a hardware modding section, I'd post there. Lol.
What about the antenna bands? Fingerprint reader? What about the plastic speaker covers? Most people, including me, are going to tell you that it's just not worth it. This is especially true if it's just for a color change and not to cover scratches. I actually just bought a gold A7 because I think they look nicer in a case than the grey ones do. I'm normally one for subdued colors but in this case the color of the phone is just an accent color. If you do it, pick a color that isn't offered to make it interesting and post the pictures here.
kitcostantino said:
Okay guys. As you all know, you can't paint aluminum. Spending a bit of time on Oakley forum, it dawned on me that you can duracoat or cerakote a phone. I have a gold a 2017u that is begging for a refinish. I hate gold, but love this phone. Just curious whether anyone has attempted such or if I will be the first monkey launched into space. Just had my X metal XX refinished and would love the gold to be gone. If we had a hardware modding section, I'd post there. Lol.
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Lol I can't count how many times I've been tempted to take a piece of sandpaper and at least get rid of the gold finish...
The good thing about the construction of this thing is that once you take it apart, only the FP reader and the camera lens remain there. I guess you can get the lens out with a little bit of pressure and take that gold ring off. The reader has a piece of what seems to be tape upon it, but you may as well leave it there. and having the two antenna lines of another color may even look nice
I really want to see the final product...
I'm torn between durabake and duracoat aerosol. I'm fairly confident that powered off, the 200 degrees f would not melt anything plastic on the phone. I wish I knew more about temperature tolerances. Also. I'm torn between primary red and nwu blue. The aerosol kit doesn't require baking, so likely that is a safer option.
Update: duracoat aerosol ordered.
kitcostantino said:
I'm torn between durabake and duracoat aerosol. I'm fairly confident that powered off, the 200 degrees f would not melt anything plastic on the phone. I wish I knew more about temperature tolerances. Also. I'm torn between primary red and nwu blue. The aerosol kit doesn't require baking, so likely that is a safer option.
Update: duracoat aerosol ordered.
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Wait, you are dissembling the phone right? I vote blue but it's too late.
lol. yes. and i ordered the nwu blue.
honestly, i think it will be a great project. if it works, it will be the motivation to acquire a 64/128. (not too motivated on that presently bc of the hideous gold.) NWU blue should be worlds better than ghetto gold.
i plan to take the phone apart.
i plan to duracoat the speaker grills the same color. same thing on sim tray and the parts where the plastic antennae lines are. i honestly could pull off doing it w/o pulling it apart and taping/masking well considering it doesnt have to bake. but i feel like the pita of full disassembly may be worthwhile.
ive taken many many phones apart. so i am not squeamish there. i just am not certain that the fingerprint sensor and the sapphire glass on the camera are that hard to mask off. (eyes crappy slickwraps extras. lol)
edit: after watching this video:
, i *definitely* am disassembling. i am so stoked for a blue axon. i wish i could make a red decal to replace the logos.
kitcostantino said:
honestly, i think it will be a great project. if it works, it will be the motivation to acquire a 64/128. (not too motivated on that presently bc of the hideous gold.) NWU blue should be worlds better than ghetto gold.
i plan to take the phone apart.
i plan to duracoat the speaker grills the same color. same thing on sim tray and the parts where the plastic antennae lines are. i honestly could pull off doing it w/o pulling it apart and taping/masking well considering it doesnt have to bake. but i feel like the pita of full disassembly may be worthwhile.
ive taken many many phones apart. so i am not squeamish there. i just am not certain that the fingerprint sensor and the sapphire glass on the camera are that hard to mask off. (eyes crappy slickwraps extras. lol)
edit: after watching this video:
, i *definitely* am disassembling. i am so stoked for a blue axon. i wish i could make a red decal to replace the logos.
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Well, I took apart my Moto G 2 and while these 2 phones are worlds apart in terms of build quality, all it took was a soft piece of wood and some force to get the camera lens to pop off. was riddled with scratches. Shouldn't be too hard to get this one off too, maybe with some heat.
You could use one of those crappy skins (only the camera one, anyways) to put on the backside lens if you can see the PCB through once you get the gold ring off, assuming you can't just paint it and put it again. I'm sure one of those brands can ship you only what you want, don't remember the name though
I guess you'll have to sand the whole body for the paint to stick to the aluminum and stay there with all the handling? If you can take some pictures of the sanded backside I'd be grateful, cause I think i'll just sand it, paint whatever's left and let it be
The FP sensor should be easy to modify, JerryRigEverything always scratches fp sensors with a blade (like you'd ever get to that point lol) abd they always keep working, so if you need to sand it so that the paint gets stuck to the plastic, you can. I don't even know what those paints are, they probably don't even import them here in Argentina. But from what I'm deducing they won't stick to plastic will they?
Also, I'd advise you to be real careful with the fabric thingy that covers the speakers. I broke one and lost the other one, so I have to clean the speakers with a magnet every once in a while... (workshop fills them up with iron dust). and something JerryRigEverything didn't mention on the disassemble video was that the power button is free-floating once you take it apart (it can't fall off though) and when I was putting the phone together the chassis somehow bent a little bit. Nothing critical but sure looks bad
Choose an username... said:
Well, I took apart my Moto G 2 and while these 2 phones are worlds apart in terms of build quality, all it took was a soft piece of wood and some force to get the camera lens to pop off. was riddled with scratches. Shouldn't be too hard to get this one off too, maybe with some heat.
You could use one of those crappy skins (only the camera one, anyways) to put on the backside lens if you can see the PCB through once you get the gold ring off, assuming you can't just paint it and put it again. I'm sure one of those brands can ship you only what you want, don't remember the name though
I guess you'll have to sand the whole body for the paint to stick to the aluminum and stay there with all the handling? If you can take some pictures of the sanded backside I'd be grateful, cause I think i'll just sand it, paint whatever's left and let it be
The FP sensor should be easy to modify, JerryRigEverything always scratches fp sensors with a blade (like you'd ever get to that point lol) abd they always keep working, so if you need to sand it so that the paint gets stuck to the plastic, you can. I don't even know what those paints are, they probably don't even import them here in Argentina. But from what I'm deducing they won't stick to plastic will they?
Also, I'd advise you to be real careful with the fabric thingy that covers the speakers. I broke one and lost the other one, so I have to clean the speakers with a magnet every once in a while... (workshop fills them up with iron dust). and something JerryRigEverything didn't mention on the disassemble video was that the power button is free-floating once you take it apart (it can't fall off though) and when I was putting the phone together the chassis somehow bent a little bit. Nothing critical but sure looks bad
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From what i understand, Duracoat will bond to any material, so long as it is degreased and prepped (sanded in this scenario) . So plastic is in. (yay)
i plan to spray the buttons but i do not plan to remove them unless i have to. even the full disassembly is not that hard.
I dont necessarily plan to paint the fp sensor unless i know the finish will not impede functionality. Duracoat may break the functionality, so i might have to be creative. its funny you mention jerryrigeverything's video bc that was my proof of concept for being able to sand the sensor down to not gold color.
on my Droid Turbo, i used to cover the capacitive buttons with clear self adhesive vinyl before i covered the screen with a Skinomi Tech skin. I may just sand the sensor enough for it to no longer be gold and grab some clear self adhesive vinyl to color match, provided that does not break functionality.
as far as sanding/prepping, i plan to emulate the process used in the video here:
and i also plan to take pics and make instructions for the whole process.
The Axon 7 forums dont have any physical mod posts, so it will be nice to put one out there as it is the best device i have owned so far. I used to be a Moto man. but they lost me with the novelty of "mods" and Verizon making boot loaders permanently locked.
My Duracoat should be here by the 30th. i really wish i could buy another color midframe that isnt gold, but ZTE parts are a pain to find.
kitcostantino said:
My Duracoat should be here by the 30th. i really wish i could buy another color midframe that isnt gold, but ZTE parts are a pain to find.
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Any news? I really wanna see that phone
lol. im watching a couple of 128/6 atm bc one can should do two. depending on how that pans out, i may be able to start on it this weekend.
no news yet. i missed out on the 128gb i was watching. honestly, the hardest part is gonna be having to use my Droid Turbo for a week while the Duracoat cures. fortunately, Turbo has some awesome devs. im still paranoid the midframe will chip easily on the sides, but even after i duracoat it, i will still use a case.
i also have to decide by what means to prep the surfaces. i figure a fine sandpaper, then the truestrip that came with the duracoat. masking the round parts is going to be a pita.
so in essence, its close, but im still deciding my plan of attack. after the holiday, i should be ready to start.
well, i have the turbo updated and im about to go pick up my sandpaper. the camera ring (if i cant find how to remove it) i am leaving gold. i had initially thought id sand the gold off of the camera, but its under the glass. ordered dbrand skins for the camera. if all works as planned, that is a compromise im willing to accept.
the plan as it stands: (commencing this evening)
1) Sand finish of back, sides, mid-frame after disassembly.
2) clean all with Tru Strip (included with Duracoat Aerosol kit).
3) duracoat 5 layers, heat flashing in between coats.
4) (hardest step) leave alone for a week and allow to cure.
I will add pics or a vid when and if time allows while im in the process.
Im using 3m Sandpaper and a sanding block i picked up from Walmart. totally forgot painters tape. back to the store i go. camera on Turbo pales in comparison to Axon 7, so bear with me in this process.
gold finish is thicker than anticipated. i cant get down to bare metal. might say screw it and go with what i got.
400 grit takes forever. camera flash is dead. i tore the black material under the fingerprint sensor. totally pulled the trigger too soon. gonna paint as is. eying broken ones on ebay. if all else goes well (prepped to duracoat atm) either i will live w/o flash and fingerprint sensor (bc of my own haste) or ill buy a grey A7. either way, this back will look great on another axon 7.
also, the gold on the camera lens is a sticker on the bottom side. popped out, and when i went to grab it, thats when the flash fell out.
its probably doomed to look like crap, but progress.
more
verdict: bad ideas ruined a great project. axon is dead. at least, locked in a boot loop. buttons are stuck. buying grey now. lol. lessons learned.
Try using a razor blade to scrape the inside edges of the button holes.
Hi there,
for Years i'm reading here silently and i never register myself.
I'm German and i hope that my english is well enough that you can understand my Questions.
I have a Question, not about Software for Samsung S8, so that's the Point for me to register here.
Hope that is the right Place in this Forum for my Question.
In the Future i plan to buy a S8 second hand. My Money is small so the most second hand S8 are in need of repair (Frontglas & Backcovers). Nothing what a Human with skills can handle. But i want to mod the S8 on the Side of Hardware.
Here is my Question:
Is it possible to make a Backcover from Aluminium and to use it instead of Glascover?
My thinking is to get a Originalcover and then to rebuild one from Aluminium (Thin it must be). CNC, or Lasercut for the precision.
I've googled many hours in the Hope to find something like this, but nothing.
So i want to ask you.
I think a Backcover from Alu ist not so breakable as Glas, more stable, but is it to realize without elektrical Danger to Part of the Phone.
I don't like the Cases & Bumpers & so on. I want to make my Phone more personal.
Are my thoughts crazy, or not? What do you think?
Hope my thread here is ok and do not conflict with the Forumrules. Sorry if that happens, but otherwise i will be thankfull for an answer or discussion about this Topic.
Greets to all outhere...
Interesting idea! Personally I would go with a skin like dbrand or slikwrap even if the glass is broken. Personal look and you don't lose any wireless functionality
Make sure that you remove the wireless charging coil before this!
Aluminium Backcover-Possible or not
Hi there,
i'm living in a relativ small Town in Northern Germany, but i hope i can find some
Manufacturers that can realize my idea. Maybe i must give an Order to some Firma over Google, or so.
To j91hernandez:
Can you give me eventually some links to the products. In Germany there are unknown, i think. I want to take a look on it.
I ask myself: is a Alu-BC thick enough to protect the Phone like the Glas-BC?
Or must can i use a Metall-BC instead Alu? I don't know.
The other thing is: you must remove the Original-BC to apply the, maybe stronger, Mod-BC. But if the S8 has no Guarantee you can make it like you wish.
Glas-Cover looks great, but i've seen so much broken S8s to buy in Ebay-Second Hand Shop, so i wondering, why nobody change the BC of the Phone to avoid the use of Cases, etc.
With a well designed Metall / Alu-BC it must be better, i think. Maybe you can make it less slippery for your Hands, too.
But: is there Dangers for electrical Parts of the Phone, i mean short circuit between Parts? In wich Way it affects the NFC Functions, etc.?
Maybe try & error! I'm willing to do so if i have the Money to buy a S8. So i try to get any Infos about that Projectidea.
zoroarctic said:
Make sure that you remove the wireless charging coil before this!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a Point! The Function of the Phone shall be at 100%, so i think i must look and read about Phones with Metall-BC AND Wireless Charging how they doing it.
There would be a chance the metal backing by witch one would have to possibly custom make curves and all. But may dampen WiFi bluetooth and wireless signals. Anything other than plastic glass or aluminum I would imagine would interfere with wireless charging as well. Absorbing or warping the magnetic field
But I would say if a man could bend the edges properly a hand held rotary tool would more than likely suffice to do all edging and cutouts for various sensors. I have had to make due with home made metal object before but precision be on this is a must. As water resistance is more than like gone with the wind on this mod.....
Which I support fully
HoosierDaddy said:
There would be a chance the metal backing by witch one would have to possibly custom make curves and all. But may dampen WiFi bluetooth and wireless signals. Anything other than plastic glass or aluminum I would imagine would interfere with wireless charging as well. Absorbing or warping the magnetic field
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with this
A plastic back would make much more sense as it would bend easier than metal for the corners while allowing for wireless charging and not causing any kind of electrical shorting issues.
zoroarctic said:
I agree with this
A plastic back would make much more sense as it would bend easier than metal for the corners while allowing for wireless charging and not causing any kind of electrical shorting issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there,
ok, Plastic-Cover is another idea to think about.
But it looks not so good as Alu, or Metall. Hm, maybe th use of a Skin can make the Optic cooler than. Another Sideeffekt is that the Plastik is covered then against big sctratches. No Danger for short circuits then and hopefully no problems with wireless charging and so on.
To Build such an BC is easier, right. Bending and cut out the Holes, that's all what we can make ourselves (if you are not Double-Lefthanded).
Thanks for the Input. Will think about that and trying it if i have my S8 in the Future.
A Fullbody-Cover protects the Phone completly (Front+Back), but on the other Side it is more thicker, unhandy. Often the Buttons are not good to press, and such things.
if you insist on aluminium/metal, then you are going to have to give up some functionalities. otherwise, plastics would be your only option. wood might be a viable option too, however durability would be an issue with the material.
imho though, you mentioned that you have limited money and if you're going to get an aluminium/metal/wood back cover machined by someone, it's going to cost more than you would think. replacement glass are way cheaper and as the other user suggested, you have vinyl wraps to get the look that you want