This is what i have.
Galaxy Tab 2 GT P5110 No power. and no signs life at all..
This is what i tried.
1. Left charging over night with a different charger that i know for a fact works.
2. Tried all combination of button presses. Power 15 sec, 30 sec. Power + touching screen 30 sec. Power + vol up. power +vol down. etc.
3. Replaced P5110 logic board with P5113.
4. Left all components unplugged with the exception of battery, power ribbon, lcd and digitizer ribbon.
None of these made a difference.
What can i try next? When i plug it in to charge, no light comes on. Should there be a light on the tablet if charging? or maybe a battery indicator on the screen? I'm trying to rule out the power button. The next possible solution for me would be the battery or the battery charge port. Any ways to troubleshoot any of these two?!
thanks
elchochito said:
This is what i have.
Galaxy Tab 2 GT P5110 No power. and no signs life at all..
This is what i tried.
1. Left charging over night with a different charger that i know for a fact works.
2. Tried all combination of button presses. Power 15 sec, 30 sec. Power + touching screen 30 sec. Power + vol up. power +vol down. etc.
3. Replaced P5110 logic board with P5113.
4. Left all components unplugged with the exception of battery, power ribbon, lcd and digitizer ribbon.
None of these made a difference.
What can i try next? When i plug it in to charge, no light comes on. Should there be a light on the tablet if charging? or maybe a battery indicator on the screen? I'm trying to rule out the power button. The next possible solution for me would be the battery or the battery charge port. Any ways to troubleshoot any of these two?!
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know if you got it already, but here's servicemanual with troubleshooting and schematics. View attachment GT-P5110-Servicemanual.zip
tys0n said:
Don't know if you got it already, but here's servicemanual with troubleshooting and schematics. View attachment 2264350
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much.. that service manual will definitely come in handy.
Last night i went to my cousins house since he had two P5113 models that were awaiting screens for replacement (he works at a rental center). I tried one of his batteries and it fired up right away. Long story short, it ended up being the dock ribbon cable. I tried one of his, and it started charging my battery! lesson learned.. ha...
Thank you.
From reading your post I was thinking about a faulty battery, but good you found out the problem
Sent through time and space from my s3mini/CM10.1
You told that you have replaced the PCB with one from the P5113.
So I guess they are compatible? Can I replace a P5110 with this board?
Battery Open circuit - Boost Method
This happened to me recently.
I left my tab discharge for a very long time. All the basic things wouldn't get the device to start charging again.
I checked the battery voltage and found that the battery had gone open circuit. This is a mechanism of the battery protection IC to protect against extreme discharge of the Li-Ion battery. My device was unable to wake the battery from this state - I guess that this is very bad design on Samsung's part.
To get around this do the following:
1. make sure that your battery is disconnected from the main circuit board.
2. get/ borrow/ steal a constant-current constant-voltage variable PSU.
3. set the PSU up at 4.2v with the current limited at 200mA
4. attach the leads to the battery and turn it on. ( red to red and black to black ! this can be done with small clips or multi meter probes )
5. wait for the battery voltage to rise from < 2.7v to around 3.6v.
6. disconnect the leads and re-attach the battery to the main circuit board.
7. before you package everything up connect you charger and turn the device on with the power button.
note: you don't have to complete #5, as long as the voltage raises to > 3.3v should be enough to stop the protection IC from defaulting back to protect mode and allow charging via the normal method.
This was very annoying for me, luckily I know a couple of things about how these systems work. If I didn't someone would have made a load of money out of me or the device would have ended up in the bin.
This is a general solution to problems of this kind not specifically limited to the Galaxy Tab 10.1
- Kirem
kirem said:
This happened to me recently.
I left my tab discharge for a very long time. All the basic things wouldn't get the device to start charging again.
I checked the battery voltage and found that the battery had gone open circuit. This is a mechanism of the battery protection IC to protect against extreme discharge of the Li-Ion battery. My device was unable to wake the battery from this state - I guess that this is very bad design on Samsung's part.
To get around this do the following:
1. make sure that your battery is disconnected from the main circuit board.
2. get/ borrow/ steal a constant-current constant-voltage variable PSU.
3. set the PSU up at 4.2v with the current limited at 200mA
4. attach the leads to the battery and turn it on. ( red to red and black to black ! this can be done with small clips or multi meter probes )
5. wait for the battery voltage to rise from < 2.7v to around 3.6v.
6. disconnect the leads and re-attach the battery to the main circuit board.
7. before you package everything up connect you charger and turn the device on with the power button.
note: you don't have to complete #5, as long as the voltage raises to > 3.3v should be enough to stop the protection IC from defaulting back to protect mode and allow charging via the normal method.
This was very annoying for me, luckily I know a couple of things about how these systems work. If I didn't someone would have made a load of money out of me or the device would have ended up in the bin.
This is a general solution to problems of this kind not specifically limited to the Galaxy Tab 10.1
- Kirem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Kirem,
The GT-P5113 battery is actually a battery pack consisting of two batteries. The single connector from the pack that attaches to the main board of the GT-P113 has two red wires, two black wires and one blue wire. I'm assuming the blue wire is a "balance" charging lead, the red and black wires connect to each individual battery respectively (bat1+, bat1-), (bat2+, bat2-).
When charging using your method, I assume both batteries (or cells) need to be charged at the same time and with the same amperage. Is this assumption correct?
Related
Hey Y'all,
I helped a friend of mine root his NT awhile back, and it was working fine for months. I showed him CM7 running off of the SD card and he liked it, so I set it up for him on Friday. I did a factory restore on the NT, and he reentered his BN account info. I then booted off the SD card and everything was working fine as I could tell.
He brought it to me this morning and it won't charge. The "n" is always green when plugged up to the wall and it never goes orange to indicate it is charging. But when I attempt to power it on, it is always displaying the low power message and says to plug in the charger.
What I have tried:
-I removed the SD card, and it still won't charge... (not that it would matter).
-I have 3 chargers and my own NT. When I plug a charger up to my NT it works fine and the "n" goes to orange. But when I plug the same charger into my friends NT, the "n" is green and I can't get past the low batter warning.
-I have had my friends NT connected to a wall charger for about 3 hours this morning and I still can't get it to boot.
Any ideas on what might be wrong and how to fix it?
Thanks for your time.
I found this thread and tried both of the suggestions and my friends NT still won't charge or boot.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=23444675
The same thing happened to my wife's nook this evening. I think the battery is completely run down, but won't receive a charge for some reason. Her charger showed green also.
I tried, removing and reinserting the SD card and also holding power for 20 seconds. I finally was able to hold down the power and the N button down for about 20 seconds. This did the trick. It showed that the battery was too low to turn on. After about 10 minutes, it booted.
Hmm, I get the battery is too low to power on every time I hold down the power button and the "n" is always green on the charger.
strandedinar, did you have the power cord hooked up when you held the power button and "n" button down for 20 seconds?
So connecting the STOCK charger and the STOCK cable and leaving it alone for an hour or so isn't doing the trick? That's really the most that many of us have had to do... No "n" button needed either.
ansar99 said:
Hmm, I get the battery is too low to power on every time I hold down the power button and the "n" is always green on the charger.
strandedinar, did you have the power cord hooked up when you held the power button and "n" button down for 20 seconds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. The nook was plugged in and the "n" was green. The Nook wouldn't power on - My wife was convinced it was my fault for rooting it...
I left it plugged in like that for 20 minutes, but nothing happened when I tried to start it. The charging light was green. I finally tried the power + N button trick and then I received the notice that the power was too low to turn on. This was the first time I received this message. After this, the color of the charging light changed from green to red/orange and I could tell that it was receiving the charge. After 10-15, it power on and has worked normally since.
I tried every thing I could think of and google and nothing worked. I took it to BandN yesterday. They thought it was a typical issue that they see a lot of, but after 3 folks at the store couldn't figure it out, they called 1800 support. Support said it was a bad usb port and swapped it out for a refurbished model.
I still think I could have fixed it, but after a couple of days my friend was getting antsy for it.
Thanks for all of the responses.
strandedinar said:
The same thing happened to my wife's nook this evening. I think the battery is completely run down, but won't receive a charge for some reason. Her charger showed green also.
I tried, removing and reinserting the SD card and also holding power for 20 seconds. I finally was able to hold down the power and the N button down for about 20 seconds. This did the trick. It showed that the battery was too low to turn on. After about 10 minutes, it booted.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you do that? I was trying to hold the buttons and never got anything.
My NT has no juice to boot, but when I plug in a power cord (stock), plugged into stock power charger, it tries to boot up. Power indicator does turn orange, but then it runs out of power once it starts booting and turns off. After a few second it turns back on, and repeats same cycle again. It never boots to the point where it can actually sleep, seems that boot-up process takes more energy than charges could give it.
Try charging it from your computer. Just as suggestion not sure if it will help.
Sent from Nook Tablet 8GB with CM10.1 iamafanof's build.
galets said:
How did you do that? I was trying to hold the buttons and never got anything.
My NT has no juice to boot, but when I plug in a power cord (stock), plugged into stock power charger, it tries to boot up. Power indicator does turn orange, but then it runs out of power once it starts booting and turns off. After a few second it turns back on, and repeats same cycle again. It never boots to the point where it can actually sleep, seems that boot-up process takes more energy than charges could give it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello Galets, did you manage to finally charge your Nook? I have the same problem as you have - when stock cable and charger are plugged in - device tries to boot and screen shows up but due to lack of power in accum it turns off and in a few seconds the cycle repeats.
I hardly understand - how it is possible that having mains power plugged it - there is not enough energy to charge and do other necessary things...
---------------
UPDATE: problem solved. In order to solve it, I had to disassemble the tablet and unplug the screen cord, then I put the power cable in, battery charged up for about an hour or so, then I plugged screen cord back in and turned it on without a problem. The down side of early charge attempts is that tablet decided that I had 10 failed boots and it reset my previously rooted device. Now I have fresh and clean stock 1.4.2 version.
PepeladZ said:
Hello Galets, did you manage to finally charge your Nook? I have the same problem as you have - when stock cable and charger are plugged in - device tries to boot and screen shows up but due to lack of power in accum it turns off and in a few seconds the cycle repeats.
I hardly understand - how it is possible that having mains power plugged it - there is not enough energy to charge and do other necessary things...
---------------
UPDATE: problem solved. In order to solve it, I had to disassemble the tablet and unplug the screen cord, then I put the power cable in, battery charged up for about an hour or so, then I plugged screen cord back in and turned it on without a problem. The down side of early charge attempts is that tablet decided that I had 10 failed boots and it reset my previously rooted device. Now I have fresh and clean stock 1.4.2 version.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how did you unplug the screen cord? I've looked up how to take apart the nook, but I'm not sure which one would the the screen cord. Did you follow a tutorial somewhere, or was it easy to figure out once you opened it up?
ACL3 said:
how did you unplug the screen cord? I've looked up how to take apart the nook, but I'm not sure which one would the the screen cord. Did you follow a tutorial somewhere, or was it easy to figure out once you opened it up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ACL3, check this link: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+Nook+Tablet+Display/11148/1.
I did not really follow the guide. I was looking for first two bolts to unscrew. The rest was quite simple but challenging - i don't usually disassemble things.
I did not pull out any of the buttons or battery from where they are and simply unplugged their connectors too - you will see 3 small foam rubber black box-like pieces (in step 9 they only marked one of them). There are plastic connectors under foam rubber pieces.
Be careful not to short-circuit anything with metallic tools.
On the attached image I marked the screen connector. I unplugged it by gently hooking it with two small screwdrivers. When putting it back I gently pressed it until I heard a click. And make sure those small slots on connector match with corresponding ones on motherboard.
Also, when finishing assembly I ran into a small problem with corner flap (which covers sdcard) - it did not want to smoothly slide in and out. So, pull it off completely and after putting plastic cover in place and screwing last two bolts, put it back - some small help of small screwdriver will be needed.
Hope my explanation was helpful
PepeladZ said:
ACL3, check this link: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+Nook+Tablet+Display/11148/1.
I did not really follow the guide. I was looking for first two bolts to unscrew. The rest was quite simple but challenging - i don't usually disassemble things.
I did not pull out any of the buttons or battery from where they are and simply unplugged their connectors too - you will see 3 small foam rubber black box-like pieces (in step 9 they only marked one of them). There are plastic connectors under foam rubber pieces.
Be careful not to short-circuit anything with metallic tools.
On the attached image I marked the screen connector. I unplugged it by gently hooking it with two small screwdrivers. When putting it back I gently pressed it until I heard a click. And make sure those small slots on connector match with corresponding ones on motherboard.
Also, when finishing assembly I ran into a small problem with corner flap (which covers sdcard) - it did not want to smoothly slide in and out. So, pull it off completely and after putting plastic cover in place and screwing last two bolts, put it back - some small help of small screwdriver will be needed.
Hope my explanation was helpful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks, looks cool. I've never taken anything apart before and I'm afraid of short circuiting something. I think I might try this.
Hi There, Does anyone know if it's possible to use the Galaxy S2 without a battery, or trick it into thinking it does have one and just run off power?
My phone works, but kills a battery in about 30 minutes. There's one resistor in there that gets super hot after being water damaged, but only with a battery in.
Wouldn't know where to buy a new resistor, so wouldn't mind leaving it permanently docked and run my audio for the house through it if I can somehow run it without a battery
.
I think it can run without battery but can't boot without battery
Sent from my sgs2 running cm9 using xda app
Makrilli said:
I think it can run without battery but can't boot without battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just tried that on another S2 I have and it didn't work
Sorry to revive a old thread, but I would also like to know if there is a way to trick the phone into booting from a power supply instead of a battery. I am attempting to hardwire an old S2 into an imbedded in car media player blah blah blah.....long story short I have issues using the battery.
If I leave the phone plugged into a constant powered USB when the car is off and the phone is sitting dormant it over charges, the battery gets super hot, I get the overcharge/overheat warning etc. If I disconnect it, then I have two issues, first it loses charge as it is in use and pulling it when I park means having to bring it inside and top it off etc. The second problem is....it kind of defeats the purpose of an "embedded system".
I have the software set up perfectly and I love the way it all works. My only current hitch is the battery issue. If I can bypass it I know I can run a off delay relay, so that when the car is shut off the USB cord stays "hot" for say 1 hour then shuts off thus removing power. This option seems tedious and the parts more expensive then a simple power supply replacement. Unfortunately I do not know the software side.
I have been able to get the phone to boot without a battery, however as soon as it is done booting I get the "battery low, plug in" warning, then a few seconds later the phone shuts off........Is there a way to keep the phone from shutting down at that point, or get it to ignore the fact the "battery" is at 0%?
Edit: When I say I can get it to boot without a battery, I am wiring a power supply directly to the two pins that the battery + and - would be touching.
techoverload said:
Sorry to revive a old thread, but I would also like to know if there is a way to trick the phone into booting from a power supply instead of a battery. I am attempting to hardwire an old S2 into an imbedded in car media player blah blah blah.....long story short I have issues using the battery.
If I leave the phone plugged into a constant powered USB when the car is off and the phone is sitting dormant it over charges, the battery gets super hot, I get the overcharge/overheat warning etc. If I disconnect it, then I have two issues, first it loses charge as it is in use and pulling it when I park means having to bring it inside and top it off etc. The second problem is....it kind of defeats the purpose of an "embedded system".
I have the software set up perfectly and I love the way it all works. My only current hitch is the battery issue. If I can bypass it I know I can run a off delay relay, so that when the car is shut off the USB cord stays "hot" for say 1 hour then shuts off thus removing power. This option seems tedious and the parts more expensive then a simple power supply replacement. Unfortunately I do not know the software side.
I have been able to get the phone to boot without a battery, however as soon as it is done booting I get the "battery low, plug in" warning, then a few seconds later the phone shuts off........Is there a way to keep the phone from shutting down at that point, or get it to ignore the fact the "battery" is at 0%?
Edit: When I say I can get it to boot without a battery, I am wiring a power supply directly to the two pins that the battery + and - would be touching.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
bump
any solutions to this yet?
the phone has a circuit that controls power and charge level by communicating with the battery so it will always know that the battery is removed because the battery feedback circuit will not be present.
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but i have a solution that may help others out.
I have found a way to power the Galaxy S2 GT-I9100T from an external power supply ( i have also tested on S3 GT-I9300 and S5 SM-G900I).
My first step was to create a dummy battery out of perspex, you could use any non conductive material.
Make sure you include the alignment notches and keep it as close to the size of the original battery so it is a snug fit and wont accidentally fall out.
When you know the perspex fits you can start fitting the contact terminals, make sure you have the polarity correct and that they line up with the contact terminals of the original battery and the spring terminals in the phone.
Once you have the terminals fitted you can then look at powering up your phone, i used a LM2596 based DC-DC converter that i had laying around.
If you are using a variable DC-DC converter like i did make sure you adjust the output of the power supply BEFORE connecting to your phone to prevent you destroying your device.
My DC-DC converter is set at 3.88 Volts, this value seems to trick the phone into thinking it has a battery with greater than 40% charge that way you don't get the annoying low battery alerts.
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How about taking your admittedly innovative idea one stage further.......
If you have an old battery laying around, why not (very carefully) remove the top part of it for use with your perspex replacement....this top section contains the overcharge protection circuit which would help to provide added protection to the device....it also has the benefits of the facts that the battery connection points are already in place and correctly aligned (it also has those alignment notches at either end).....imo, an improvement on an already good idea....
I got problem with my SGS 2 - after long on-shelf time battery drained to absoltely zero. My voltometer showed 0 on every connector. I was unable to charge or boot my phone (24h+ on charger, no signs of life). Dead, bricked, gone... Battery was relatively new (some months) so I didn't want to buy another one. Then I read Spud2233's post... and tried it .Well, kind of variation. I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila! After 2 or 3 retries my phone booted in and started to charge. I disconected additional power cable, phone is loading as usual. Battery revived!
Thanks for inspiration, Spud2233!
szydas said:
I got problem with my SGS 2 - after long on-shelf time battery drained to absoltely zero. My voltometer showed 0 on every connector. I was unable to charge or boot my phone (24h+ on charger, no signs of life). Dead, bricked, gone... Battery was relatively new (some months) so I didn't want to buy another one. Then I read Spud2233's post... and tried it .Well, kind of variation. I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila! After 2 or 3 retries my phone booted in and started to charge. I disconected additional power cable, phone is loading as usual. Battery revived!
Thanks for inspiration, Spud2233!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just registered to say thanks for this tip!
I too have had SII batteries go dead after too long, and the SII seems to be unable to power up without a voltage across the battery terminals.
I used a small variable power supply set to about 3.5 V. I trimmed some thin hookup wire until only a few strands were left and 'pinched' them between the battery terminals and the phone battery contacts. Then with a charger plugged in to the phone I was able to 'trick' the phone into turning on. Once booted the battery charged fine.
Note I think this should be done quickly as the phone and power supply will fight each other for as long as the voltage is placed on the contact, so I pulled the PS wires out (keeping the battery in) as soon as the phone was booted up.
szydas said:
I got problem with my SGS 2 - after long on-shelf time battery drained to absoltely zero. My voltometer showed 0 on every connector. I was unable to charge or boot my phone (24h+ on charger, no signs of life). Dead, bricked, gone... Battery was relatively new (some months) so I didn't want to buy another one. Then I read Spud2233's post... and tried it .Well, kind of variation. I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila! After 2 or 3 retries my phone booted in and started to charge. I disconected additional power cable, phone is loading as usual. Battery revived!
Thanks for inspiration, Spud2233!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the solution to my problem! I have purchased TWO batteries already and they both stopped working after drained to zero. I was blaming a charger or a quality of the battery. I found other posts suggesting to remove a capacitor but it wasn't broken...
Thanks to you, I have just booted my phone, pulled out extra power after couple minutes and it charging on its own now! (well 5% as I speak).
fpN3eqU said:
Just registered to say thanks for this tip!
I too have had SII batteries go dead after too long, and the SII seems to be unable to power up without a voltage across the battery terminals.
I used a small variable power supply set to about 3.5 V. I trimmed some thin hookup wire until only a few strands were left and 'pinched' them between the battery terminals and the phone battery contacts. Then with a charger plugged in to the phone I was able to 'trick' the phone into turning on. Once booted the battery charged fine.
Note I think this should be done quickly as the phone and power supply will fight each other for as long as the voltage is placed on the contact, so I pulled the PS wires out (keeping the battery in) as soon as the phone was booted up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
szydas said:
I got problem with my SGS 2 - after long on-shelf time battery drained to absoltely zero. My voltometer showed 0 on every connector. I was unable to charge or boot my phone (24h+ on charger, no signs of life). Dead, bricked, gone... Battery was relatively new (some months) so I didn't want to buy another one. Then I read Spud2233's post... and tried it .Well, kind of variation. I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila! After 2 or 3 retries my phone booted in and started to charge. I disconected additional power cable, phone is loading as usual. Battery revived!
Thanks for inspiration, Spud2233!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am in the same situation with SII batteries go dead after too long.
I do not understand this part
''I connected charger to phone's USB port and additional power (Motorola's dual port charger) to internal batterys connector (simly stripped old USB cable). Then battery was inserted and.... voila!''
or this part
'' I trimmed some thin hookup wire until only a few strands were left and 'pinched' them between the battery terminals and the phone battery contacts. Then with a charger plugged in to the phone I was able to 'trick' the phone into turning on.''
how is this different than inserting the battery in the phone and then connecting the usb power supply?
blue whale said:
how is this different than inserting the battery in the phone and then connecting the usb power supply?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone won't charge the battery if it doesn't detect (sufficient) voltage. You can "jump start" the charging process by tricking it with a fixed voltage across the terminals.
so I take my dead battery, then
-take a usb charger+usb cable
-strip the usb cable to get two strands
-put one strand of the usb cable on the + of the battery
-put one strand of the usb cable on the - of the battery
=>the battery is charging
[or easier, I take battery like this,
put one strand of an electric cable on the +, connect this cable to the + of the phone battery, then put one strand of the electric cable on the - of the battery and the - of the phone battery
then I put the battey in the phone with usb power supply IN and the phone boots ???
I wouldn't use a USB cable, 5 V is probably too high.
blue whale said:
or easier, I take battery like this, put one strand of an electric cable on the +, connect this cable to the + of the phone battery, then put one strand of the electric cable on the - of the battery and the - of the phone battery then I put the battey in the phone with usb power supply IN and the phone boots ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, that's exactly what I did (except I used a 3.5 V power supply).
Once the phone has begun booting you should probably disconnect the "jump start" battery as quickly as possible or it'll fight the charging circuit.
fpN3eqU said:
I wouldn't use a USB cable, 5 V is probably too high.
Yep, that's exactly what I did (except I used a 3.5 V power supply).
Once the phone has begun booting you should probably disconnect the "jump start" battery as quickly as possible or it'll fight the charging circuit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
but you agree that connecting the phone battery the charged green battery is like charging the phone battery [at least a bit]?
then I would just use the phone battery normally, by inserting it into the phone and boot the phone and finish to charge the phone battery.
blue whale said:
but you agree that connecting the phone battery the charged green battery is like charging the phone battery [at least a bit]?
then I would just use the phone battery normally, by inserting it into the phone and boot the phone and finish to charge the phone battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really, the SII battery will still be dead after a few seconds "charging". Getting the voltage across the phone battery terminals tricks the phone that there's a charged battery present so it will boot and continue charging it. Otherwise it gets stuck in something like a boot loop looking for the battery (mine did anyway).
If you could charge it separately from the phone then obviously you'd just do that.
Thank you for all your tips. I tried similar stuff, but I guess the voltage was just not right.
So I asked around to get a spare battery, which which I powered on the phone. It worked like charm.
I change the battery while the phone was running and tada! my phone was loading the "out of order" battery just fine.
Pretty much the same trick you guys did, but with less soldering and more quick magic happening ^^
regsnerven said:
Thank you for all your tips. I tried similar stuff, but I guess the voltage was just not right.
So I asked around to get a spare battery, which which I powered on the phone. It worked like charm.
I change the battery while the phone was running and tada! my phone was loading the "out of order" battery just fine.
Pretty much the same trick you guys did, but with less soldering and more quick magic happening ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did just that to my s2 and his dead battery.
I was scared to go with ONLY a 18650 battery to charge the dead battery (no phone or usb charger involved) : I did not know if I should connect pole+ of the 18650 with pole + of dead battery (and pole - of 18650 with pole - of dead battery) which is the parallel scheme or the opposite, to go with the ''series'' scheme
blue whale said:
I was scared to go with ONLY a 18650 battery to charge the dead battery (no phone or usb charger involved) : I did not know if I should connect pole+ of the 18650 with pole + of dead battery (and pole - of 18650 with pole - of dead battery) which is the parallel scheme or the opposite, to go with the ''series'' scheme
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were right to be scared. You should not do that. The dead battery might draw too much current. That could be dangerous. Read a bit about how charging of Li-Ion batteries works: first you charge with constant current (CC), which depends on the battery's design, once it reaches the correct voltage (4.2 V for a single cell), it should go into constant voltage mode, and then you have to know at what time or remaining current you shut the charger off. A good rule of thumb is to wait till the current drops to 10% of the charging current. E.g. if you were charging the battery with 1 A***, you should turn off the charger when it's down to 100 mA.
***1 A is just an example that would work for most modern phone batteries. However, this can be different! Ideally it's written on the battery.
Also, it's very well possible that in newer phones the battery will only output voltage if the charging circuit inside the phone allows it to. At least that's the case in notebooks for many years, and I don't see why it should be very different for phones.
I can't remember exactly what happened when my beloved S2 died but I do know that it no longer would power up. I always had two batteries and if used equally they could easily have been totally maxed out - although it is hard to believe they would both die at exactly the same time.
So I went on e-bay and bought a new charging port and installed it. I think I did it right. But when I plugged it in with one of those two batteried in the phone - I still get no signs of life from the phone.
Here is what I am wondering - excuse if answer is obvious:
1. If I plug the phone into the wall without a battery and the phone is healthy - should it power up? Or does a battery have to be in the phone for it to function?
Thanks
Peter
No, it won't power up into the system without the battery.
However, you can test the phone without the battery in, because it will go into download mode without the battery in because the usb cable will supply the power. So, to test the phone problem is battery related, try to put the phone into download mode with the battery removed. Hold down both volume buttons while you plug in the usb cable, -or- depress all three buttons vol and pwr when the phone is already connected to the computer with the usb cable. If you get no sign of life, then it is probably not a battery issue.
creepyncrawly said:
No, it won't power up into the system without the battery.
However, you can test the phone without the battery in, because it will go into download mode without the battery in because the usb cable will supply the power. So, to test the phone problem is battery related, try to put the phone into download mode with the battery removed. Hold down both volume buttons while you plug in the usb cable, -or- depress all three buttons vol and pwr when the phone is already connected to the computer with the usb cable. If you get no sign of life, then it is probably not a battery issue.
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Thanks Creepy - unfortunately the download mode option didn't show any life either. Really disappointed. I was secretly counting on the USB charger piece replacement to do the trick. I guess that means that something other than the battery is not functional....
Dead S2
creepyncrawly said:
No, it won't power up into the system without the battery.
However, you can test the phone without the battery in, because it will go into download mode without the battery in because the usb cable will supply the power. So, to test the phone problem is battery related, try to put the phone into download mode with the battery removed. Hold down both volume buttons while you plug in the usb cable, -or- depress all three buttons vol and pwr when the phone is already connected to the computer with the usb cable. If you get no sign of life, then it is probably not a battery issue.
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As discussed, I thought after replacing my usb part and still having no success that my beautiful Shostock S2 was gone for good. I went out and bought a Moto G w/LTE for $220. It is fine but I still liked the feel and particularly the camera of my S2 better. I have fixed so many things these days just by searching YouTube - sure enough - I found a video by this italian guy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhCks3QAjz4
A bit hard to understand but essentially - you test for a short - at on prongs 1 and 3 where battery connect. If you have a short - your next step is to remove a Capacitor. I knocked pulled mine off my board with tweezers. No idea why that works but it Does!
Here is a pic of what I removed. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108322879/S2%20Capacitor.jpg
Good Luck
Stackman1 said:
As discussed, I thought after replacing my usb part and still having no success that my beautiful Shostock S2 was gone for good. I went out and bought a Moto G w/LTE for $220. It is fine but I still liked the feel and particularly the camera of my S2 better. I have fixed so many things these days just by searching YouTube - sure enough - I found a video by this italian guy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhCks3QAjz4
A bit hard to understand but essentially - you test for a short - at on prongs 1 and 3 where battery connect. If you have a short - your next step is to remove a Capacitor. I knocked pulled mine off my board with tweezers. No idea why that works but it Does!
Here is a pic of what I removed. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108322879/S2%20Capacitor.jpg
Good Luck
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Interesting. Assuming that the capacitor is positioned between pins 1 and 3, the short would be caused by the failed capacitor, and removing the capacitor removes the short, but makes the capacitance between pins 1 and 3 close to infinite. So evidently the phone functions well enough without the capacitor. It's way beyond my knowledge to even guess why that capacitor is put there in the first place. I guess an engineer could tell us.
I recently picked up this galaxy s6 edge from a friend that upgraded to a new phone. It won't turn on, neither to android recovery, nor to download mode nor the android. I charged it via wireless charging overnight and i tried for around an hour with a usb cable. What do i do?
same issue i am facing, i tried original charger, wireless charger and fast chargers from many different brands. but all failed. The device only gets warm/hot while charging and nothing happens. neither download mode nor recovery mode works. I am kind pf stuck without any solution, my device was used very rarely and its like an brand new device. Doesn't know what to do, if you find any solution then please let me know too. thanks in advance
Same problem. If I press power button very long, blue light comes on. Then it's stuck and stays like this until battery is flat. Battery charging is not possible: device heats up (tried USB and Qi), but battery doesn't take any charge.
So I opened the S6 and checked the battery directly. I can charge it directly with a lab power supply and when I plug it in and press power button, the blue notification light comes on again until battery is empty again. I can also see that only ICs get hot, but not the battery when plugging in USB.
So, it's definitely some hardware fault. I suspect power IC that is not able to power up the screen. But I don't know. I will investigate further but it looks difficult. However, I have seen many YouTube videos with same symptoms, but problem was always different than mine :/
Hi guys,
This thread is 2 months old, any of you managed to fix the problem?
I am having very similar problem. My phone was on a shelf for about a year and a half. Before now it was working perfectly. Now I can't charge it via USB or power adapter. When trying to power it up or get into download or recovery mode, nothing happens. Computer does not see it. Tried different cables, USB ports, power adapters..nothing.
The only thing that is happening to the phone is the battery logo appears when trying to charge it, though the green bar does not go over battery, only the empty grey battery with lightning icon in the middle. Also the screen does not go dark after a few seconds as it should and the red/blue LED does not turn on.
Is this the signal from the phone, that the battery is to deeply dischareged and cannot be charged again? I am googling all over the web and can't find anybody talking about what phone does in case of to low voltage on battery.
PS back does not seem to be bloated, USB port was working perfectly last time used
Please try to help, you are my last stop before opening the phone and start probing the poop out of motherboard to see what gave.
EDIT: something interesting happened just about an hour after my post. The battery suddenly started showing % of charge and the green bar started running, computer recognized the phone.. as everything should be.
My FIX: leave the phone pluged in and charging for about 3days and it will start working again.
My semi professional explenation of fix and problem: the phone has a ''backup or reserve'' battery. It is actually main battery but the last I think I read somewhere it is 20% of capacity, is reserved for phone exclusively for the clock and all other electronics that need power when switched off. Now these 20% probably were discharged due to laying around for almost 2 years.
It took me 3 days of charging to fill up these ''20%'' I guess. Probably because Lithium batteries are charged VERY slow at very start and end. This is safty procedure for ALL Li batteries.
If any expert can confirm my conclusion please do so, to help other people.
To answer partialy to my question: The phone tells you battery is ''deep'' discharged when you only see the charge icon without the green bar.
In the mean time I was writing this edit I came up to 4% battery and turned it on!
BR Friend
Hi,
I had a Sony Z5 compact in a drawer for about 2 years, where the battery already was weak. I'd like to use it as a smarthome button panel where the bad battery won't matter, but I can't get it to turn on anymore.
When I first plugged it, the status LED switched to constant red. I unplugged it a couple hours later, just to find, that the LED stayed on even when unplugged. The device still was cold, so I don't think, that it really charged.
Since there was no reaction on the power button, I tried the "OFF"-button in the SIM slot. After reading on the internet, I held that button for 2 minutes. The phone vibrated every 15s, so it seemed alive. I then plugged in the charger, again the status LED turned constant red. This time the device got warm, seemingly charging.
After a couple of hours I tried starting it, but still, theres no reaction on the Power button. I again tried the OFF button, with no reaction whatsoever, not even vibrating anymore. Also the status LED shows no more reaction on plugging it in.
Is the device dead now? Anything I can try to get it working again? I don't need the battery anymore, Its supposed to spend its second life permanently plugged in.
best regards,
RockNLol
The usual advice is to make sure it is off (Hold power and vol-downup until it vibrates 3x / if really dead, just wait ~20s), and then leave it on a charger for a few hours. If that doesn't do it, your battery is toast.
Even if it is revivable, there is a chance that it is so weak that it will make the phone crash - the battery is used like a buffer even when on the charger, and if the phone needs high peak current, it will try to take it from the battery. If the battery is too weak, voltage will drop and the phone will crash.
In any way, I would not want a battery that is potentially damaged to be at the charger 24/7. If you deep-discharge a battery, it can form tiny little short circuits, and if you charge it, it can become a fire hazard. As in, burn your house down and release lots of toxic fumes while doing so.
If you are familiar with soldering, the best solution would be to open the phone, remove the battery, and replace it with a fake battery circuit. Obviously, don't do this if you aren't comfortable doing this kind of stuff, and always have a plan for what to do if the battery decides to light on fire.
For that, after you removed the battery, try to pry off the yellow tape on it, and get to the battery protection PCB near the connector. Carefully cut the leads to the actual battery and remove it (this is the most dangerous part). Then, solder a large capacitor across the battery leads and a connector for a power supply that can provide around 4V at, idk, 2-3A. There aren't many 4V power supplies, but a 5V one and a (silicon) diode in series work well (make sure the diode can survive a couple amps). Then, plug the fake battery back into the mainboard, fix everything in place using tape or glue, and see if it boots.
1ggn3 said:
The usual advice is to make sure it is off (Hold power and vol-down until it vibrates 3x / if really dead, just wait ~20s),
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Power and Volume-Up?
Sure, one of the two
Power + Volume-down starts TWRP when the device is not running.
When the device is running, it takes a screenshot.