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Hello Guys,
i have a problem, i had already replaced the LCD-Screen because the old was broken.
But now i got a new problem... if i place the new screen on the digitalizer i got a glimer on the display. I don't now why. But i already discoverd that this effect only appearce if the LCD-Screen is on the digitalizer..
So what is the exactly reason and how can i fix this problem? Is the digitalizer cracked?
Here are 3 Pictures, one is without the digitalizer.
Thank You,
PS: Sorry for my bad english
did you try to fit digitizer in or just holding it upon the lcd?
what would happen if you rotate it 90degs?
are you sure there is no protection foil still on the lcd???
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behind and on the lcd, there are reflection foils, bluring, light redirecting, polarizating. maybe 6 of them together. some are glued on screen, some are just below it. obviously there is something in digitizer as well, and those in your replaced lcd are not compatible with digitizer.
can you ask for return of the lcd and get another one?
the other option would be getting replacement of digitizer from the same shop.
or third, this effect doesn't look like it's from polarizator. polarizator is glued but those others are not. if it will not change if you rotate it, like with polarizator effect, means it's not polarizator and you can replace those other foils from below lcd. putting ones from your broken screen to the new one. It's quite difficult, but could be done.
okay.. if i rotate the digitalizer the effect changes..
in nearly 90 degree the effect is better than normal.. but not really good..
so is there a magnetism issue??
or whats the reason for this effect?..
could the digitalizer broken? but it's still working..
the display brokes because of violence..
could the digitalizer although broken??
no the digitizer is fine.
the replacement you get was not oem. means was not from the same factory.
someone working in there made some pictures or paintings of the lcd and showed it to his friend who owns a similar factory. He then made this lcd and sold it to you. As he didn't know what sort of, let's call them optic foils, have been used in the original he just put the ones he new were working fine with another mobile. But he didn't expect, as i am surprised too, that the digitizer have an optic foil inside as well. But before realizing, I suppose they already gave bonus to all those little workers and started overnight secret manufacture.
Before realizing the mistake, they already produced a lot of it. To cut the loses, I suppose they created a set of digitizers with a similar practice, which they would sell together with lcd and would be working good.
Now someone, your seller probably thought selling separate lcd would be ok too, so he did. That's why i was suggesting you have right to have an replacement, refund or an new digitizer from him at a fair price.
Of course don't take me too serious on the picture/painting matter, but otherwise I wouldn't be surprised if I came to true quite close
anyway those fake parts are a good quality and in most cases you wouldn't say difference. But shyt happens
as the rotating didn't solve issue completely problem would be those foils below lcd. if your seller would not be cooperative, you've got nothing to loose. open both lcds and change foils over.
Or get a fake digitizer which you would be sure is compatible with that screen.
If not successful, get a combo, lcd + digitizer.
hmm okay..
in the description is written original htc ware..
i had send my seller that problem and now we will see..
thanks a lot for those information..
I would be very interested in knowing how you got the digitizer and screen seperated? Arent they glued and most likely going to break easy?
did you mean the digitalizer and the lcd display or the front screen?
I opened one up once and the LCD appeared to be glued on to the back of the front screen (which I assume is the digitizer?)
ah okay.. eeerm.. i don't know that the lcd was glued on the digitalizer.. because my display has broken and the liquid was out of the display.. so the LCD was easy to take off..
But I've read some guys has warmed it firstly with a hair dryer and then they could take the display off..
hx4700 Killer said:
I opened one up once and the LCD appeared to be glued on to the back of the front screen (which I assume is the digitizer?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you make me want to open ma rhodium.
if it's glued use a razor, or heat gun & blade like on apples.
then clean it and put new tape.
fake3 said:
ah okay.. eeerm.. i don't know that the lcd was glued on the digitalizer.. because my display has broken and the liquid was out of the display.. so the LCD was easy to take off..
But I've read some guys has warmed it firstly with a hair dryer and then they could take the display off..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah dryer is maybe more safe just keep it below 100 cels. but it's not so vulnerable on bending too.
fake3: you sure you don't have protector foil on that lcd you bought?
i been playing around and get similar efect with a protection foil below polaroid.
there was still one protection foil on the front of the lcd.. but i already removed this foil..
but can you make a picture where the foil the polaroid is??
fake3 said:
there was still one protection foil on the front of the lcd.. but i already removed this foil..
but can you make a picture where the foil the polaroid is??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was playing with just a generic foils. not rhodium.
They can put filters inside plastic nowadays. and mix even more of them and it's all still tiny.
If there is one in digitizer, it would cut sun reflections of lcd and would make good sense.
Glass could be tented, too. digitizer is usually one glass and one foil.
even if you would find something glued on lcd or digitizer, it's not possible to take it of without damage. I talked to people producing foils and applying them they can't take that off too.
There have you be one polarizer glued on front of lcd, otherwise you would see nothing. And they usually gluing one on back. That make the light more efficient. redirect light in useful directions, but is not necessary, that is another possible difference in your case. And probable, because it spares $ and space. But it's glued - no help there if that's the case.
but then there are all those which are dispersing light evenly, those you can try to change. They all have to be used in a set working together they create
something called Brewster condition, if that's not met, you see something like you see on your screen. every active foil is a part of it, and obviously there is something in your digitizer.
Just had another though, there is a small chance that htc decided to change factory or producing process themselves. and both are original. But I wouldn't say that's very probable.
So guys,
i solved the problem..
I bought an new Digitalizer from the same seller and now it works fine..
Thanks a lot for the hint with the different manufractures..
Greetz
happy to hear that
no worries
guys.. i wan to ask something..
my LCD is glued to my digitizer. since both of it is broken.. i juz throw the whole part away.
but then, i diden really glue my new / replacement LCD to my digitizer.
so i assume they did have some space in between.
although my rhodium works well now, but my digitizer only able to sense fingernail o stylus only. anything a tad bigger than fingernail, it wont pick up. neither my thumb nor my finger.
is this possible due to the space in between the screen made it so? or my digitizer was some lousy quality stuff?
devalian said:
guys.. i wan to ask something..
my LCD is glued to my digitizer. since both of it is broken.. i juz throw the whole part away.
but then, i diden really glue my new / replacement LCD to my digitizer.
so i assume they did have some space in between.
although my rhodium works well now, but my digitizer only able to sense fingernail o stylus only. anything a tad bigger than fingernail, it wont pick up. neither my thumb nor my finger.
is this possible due to the space in between the screen made it so? or my digitizer was some lousy quality stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The digitizer is a seperate part from the screen. It sends X - Y coords to the device letting it know where you pressed and the device coorelates that to what was on the screen where you pressed.
What I am saying is that you could have the two pieces seperated the screen in one place on the digitizer in another and you should still be able to press on the digitizer and have the device react appropriately.
The digitizer works independantly from the screen.
haha.. so in short.. it means by digitizer is lousy rite?
I Have de same problem, I need a new lcd screen but i dont know where buy
please help me
and i need the service manual
Thks
Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Killer95Stang said:
Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
chamberc said:
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any way to actually test this? Can use a voltmeter type tester to check continuity from one side of each pin to the other? They are hair like in size, so not sure the standard tests are the same.
Thanks..
My DIY experience...
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
ThomasKJ said:
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Killer95Stang said:
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure that your LCD is broken. It might just be the connection to the motherboard that is bad as chamberc said. I had the same problem with my broken screen. I had to wiggle the cable to get a partial correct picture on my screen. I tried to clean the pads without getting a 100% stable connection so I might have broken the flex cable as well, but normally these are relatively good at flexing without braking (they are made to do that) so I tend to think that it is the connection in the connector.
Until I figure out what to do with the touch screen I have not spend more time on root casuing it, but I suggest that you try to take the flex out of the connector and clean it with either a erasor or a cloth with alcohol and then gently put it back into the connector. Also ensure that you put it in the right way and close the hatch properly.
Good luck.
On the touch screen issue, my touch screen is working fine it JUST has a reverted x-axis, so it would still cause your colors to change, so I'm very curious if yours is working. Could you also share the touch screen part number (printed on the flex cable) and TF201 hardware version (TF201-1B or TF201-1I or???) This should be written on the label of the box and on the warrenty card.
The background for me asking about this, is that asusparts.eu has different spare parts depending on if is for TF201-1B or TF201-1I so there might be two versions of the hardware out there. Mine is a TF201-1B.
I bought a screen assembly replacement (next time it will be better to buy it complete with the front housing), everything is fine but it seems that the edge of the screen arent stick that well (especially the buttom edge - where the back button etc).
I cleaned the original housing before attach the new screen, include in the edges and I've tight it before install the motherboard and etc...
Anyway right now I've putted insulating tape with pressure on the edges and all over the sceen (attached to the back cover of the device), playing a movie on highest brightness (to make the screen hot) and put it on case that pressure on the edges
What else can I do? it wasn't lift up (the buttom edge, each time its other edge) everytime but its annoying.
I guess next time (if not buying a housing assembly) I should put another adhesive on the edges of the glass, seems their adhesive is not enough...
or should it be like that at the first?
//edit - I've found a thread that describe the same problem:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1277367
You have three chices:
1) Try to repair the phone, again.
2) Ask in the thread you've linked to how to fix it.
3) Take the device to someone who can properly install the screen.
f-r said:
You have three chices:
1) Try to repair the phone, again.
2) Ask in the thread you've linked to how to fix it.
3) Take the device to someone who can properly install the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well seems like its happened because there is no adhesive at the sides and at the buttom...
I'll try to stick some adhesive on these places without disassembly the screen, only under the glass sides/buttom...
What adhesive do I need? is this ok? http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Attachme...707231?pt=AU_Scrapbooking&hash=item5aefa6425f
to do it properly you will need to remove the screen and get a complete new double sided sticker for your screen, the foam in your link will not allow the screen to sit properly flat down
Does anyone know how to replace the digitizer only?
I checked youtube how to replace the lcd + digitizer front panel set but I cant find anything on just removing the digitizer from the lcd.
I checked aliexpress and found
"Touch Screen Glass lens Digitizer Panel Replacement For Sony Togari Xperia Z Ultra C6802 XL39h Original free shipping"
for $90.
Do I need the
"5X Digitizer Touch Panel Adhesive Sticker Rubberized For Sony Ericsson Xperia Z Ultra XL39H C6802,Togari,Xperia L4,Xperia ZU"
on aliexpress to make the digitizer stick to the lcd?
Or should I just fork out $150 for the lcd and digitizer set for an easier way?
But I would prefer just doing the digitizer way cause its more cheaper.
Any input would be great guys. Thank you.
AFAIK is almost impossible to remove it as they were bonded with good adhesive....
Some professional equipment are available to remove them but it cost quite a bit to do so...
Even if you managed to pull it off. You cannot water proof it anymore.
ronald_loulan said:
AFAIK is almost impossible to remove it as they were bonded with good adhesive....
Some professional equipment are available to remove them but it cost quite a bit to do so...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it the same as the "Z" ?
I saw this youtube video " watch?v=1TFFHFHUJjc " and I feel like I could do it. Search "Sony Xperia Z Separate Touch Screen (Digitizer Glass) Scotle PR-1000 "
Clamps, Heat gun, UV LOCA glue, and Molybdenum wire. I think I could pull it off.
Leechoonhwee said:
Even if you managed to pull it off. You cannot water proof it anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm fine without the water proof. I'm just going to fix it and pass it to my nephew.
jonelleallida said:
Is it the same as the "Z" ?
I saw this youtube video " watch?v=1TFFHFHUJjc " and I feel like I could do it. Search "Sony Xperia Z Separate Touch Screen (Digitizer Glass) Scotle PR-1000 "
Clamps, Heat gun, UV LOCA glue, and Molybdenum wire. I think I could pull it off.
I'm fine without the water proof. I'm just going to fix it and pass it to my nephew.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
U can try but is not that easy like what they said...
It take alot of patient which i dont hv...
Good luck and pls do update us...
I fixed it already. BUT! I dont know if the digitizer is defective or I messed up the connections when I took the old one off and the new one on or maybe it some how bent or the gule is somehow uneven and it is making the touches off point.
i.e.
I turn on show visable pointer upon touch in developer options.
When I touch the top right it clicks on the bottom left. vice versa.
When I drag down it drags right. vice versa.
Or maybe I need to calibrate the touch screen? I actually trying to search it now how to do it.
Any suggestions guy on any of this?
Please help.
How did you do it? only heat gun?
My Z cracked long time ago..and now my xperia L too So I guess I could try to repair my xperia Z, but I don't want to pay for a whole LCD.
Only heat gun and wire worked?
Besides can you remove the digitizer and LCD and then remove the digitizer? Or it has to be when still glued/connected to the phone?
Hi!
I have broken the display on my Z2.
I have ordered a new one online and changed it. Soon I realized it's not working properly (ghost touches and unresponsive screen). After looking for a solution, I found out that this may be a grounding problem.
Since i saw, that the new display didn't come with adhesive covers for the chips on the flex cable, i have fitted them from the original display, but the problem still persists.
So how do I properly ground the display?
Does the bottom metal part of the display flex cable, have to touch the metal part of the frame? I suspect that sometimes it doesnt (new display didn't have the grey adhesive, the original had - but I can't remove it). Do I have to fix it with some kind of conducting adhesive?.
What about the top metal part of the display flex cable? Must it touch (ground) somwhere or it's not neccessary?.
Do I have to be carefull that some parts of the flex cable doesnt touch some other part of the phone?
BTW, I know the display isn't faulty because if I remove the back cover, sometimes i get perfect screen rensponse (maybe i ground it with my hand).
Thanks in advance.