Related
My GTab took a face plant a couple weeks ago. That gave me a good excuse to pick of a Moto Xoom, but my daughter would like my GTab. Anyone know of where or how I can get a replacement glass for this? I'm assuming it is not just regular glass, but I could be wrong, of course.
Is it the outside glass or the internal LCD? I believe the exterior glass is the digitizer panel. I'm not sure anyone has found a replacement for that but I could be wrong. I remember seeing a thred on it when I was searching for information on replacing a broken LCD panel.
Somewhere on the VS site in the specifications I found a number for the screen -- it's made by a company in China as you would expect. If you can find that number, you
might be able to get it through a wholesaler over there. NOTE: The g-tablet screen
is thinner than regular ones so you have to have the exact model.
You might check the long thread about replacement panels (not the current ones, an
older one from back in November/December for the number.
Also, what about sending it to VS for repair?
Rev
I dropped my HTC Legend yesterday onto concrete, and now my screen is cracked. I've looked online to see if I could buy the part myself, and try and fix it myself as a local cell repair shop says it will cost 180$ to fix, for that price I'll just buy a brand new Legend and cut my losses with this one. Looking around online though, I'm unsure as to what I need to buy? I've found an LCD screen, or a digitizer... My touchscreen and all those functions work 100% all thats wrong is the glass is spiderwebbed pretty good. I'm thinking that I need the digitizer not the LCD screen? Or is there just a part thats just the glass? I'd post a picture of the phone, but I can't due to site restrictions.
I can't find any info on this, but it looks like it could be tricky to replace. I cracked my glass by dropping it onto stone, still works OK. You can pick up digitisers pretty cheap on ebay (£20 UK) but does anyone know how to replace? I read that they can be glued to the LCD?
Thanks
Google for the fixit website, if someone has done it there will be a tutorial, or you could follow the guide on here to upgrade your sd card....only because you have to take the phone fully apart. You need to check if the lcd is glued or like the iphone 4 resin. If they are a sealed unit you'd be better off getting the lcd/digitizer combo on ebay. trying to separate an lcd from the digitizer is asking for trouble imho.
I have ordered a digitiser, really hope the digitiser is not glued to the LCD, there is a big price difference. I'll let you know how I get on.
I bought a Mozart with wrecked digitizer and also want to repair it. The digitizer is on its way, so in a week i could tell you how difficult or maybe easy it is.
If you are faster, please post your experience.
I found this thread on xda.cn, and it seems that the lcd isnt glued on the digitizer, so lets hope so
hxxp://xxx.xda.cn/newshow.php?snid=2167
EDIT: sorry cantpost links, so must change the x's to t's and w's
I have got my digitiser now, looks brand new. Just need to find the time to replace, might upgrade the SD card at the same time.
Done
I did this with Andy's guide to help: http://lifeinthefastlaneok.wordpres...-7-mozart-sd-card-memory-upgrade/#comment-225
I used this guide to replace my digitiser (the glass) which I smashed. The good news is that the digitiser is not stuck to the LCD at all. I just bought a grade A digitiser off ebay for £20 which was pretty much perfect - glass was perfect with a couple of small marks on the back case, but basically like new.
There were a couple of differences to this guide:
- Had to replace a speaker type thing at the top of the digitiser that was not present on the new one. Came off quite easily, just stuck in.
- Had to remove the USB port of the old case back (if you are replacing that too) but that was just a couple of screws
- You dont have to split the PCB off if doing this, you just take off the black clips to take it apart and then remove the orange ribbon cable, it is a little tricky to get the new one in but OK.
I now have a phone as good as new, I didn't replace the SD at the same time but probably will do at some point when I can stand loosing all my data.
Found time today to replace the digitizer. I also used Andy's videos for instruction. And it's really not that hard. Pretty easy for someones first mobile phone repair.
Well done, I would add for anyone else needing to do this, be very careful not to touch the inside of the digitiser or the LCD when you have it apart! Also have a glasses cloth handy for removing any dust particles just before you put it back together.
I do have one strange thing however - before I had intermittent issues where I could not slide the screen up when locked for 10 seconds or so. No I have a slightly different issue when unlocking - it doesn't always let me press on the right hand 3 numbers on the PIN screen! So it seems the unlocking issue some people have is due to a hardware issue. My digitiser was second hand so I might ask for a replacement, but I can change my pin so that it is not an issue.
My Mozart touch-screen hardly works at all plus my wife's Mozart has a cracked digitizer glass (still working fine).
So silly me I took the plunge and ordered three cheap replacement digitizers via eBay (from Hong Hong). They arrived today and all are s**t useless.
When I opened the box I smelt the rat when I spied the HTC logo on each was blanked out on the outside of the plastic zip-lock bags (with what looked like black felt pen), plus each glass has minor blemishes/scratches. Comparing each with the digitizers I removed from my and my wife's phones, they have a different design of ribbon cable conductor layout plus there are indications the plastic moulding isn't as well finished in a couple of places. Either these are factory rejects or knock-off copies. Lesson learnt :-(
Anyway, I now need to buy genuine HTC parts.
Any pointers toward reliable sources appreciated, thanks.
KJ
I have bought some off ebay. The problem is that these are almost always from returned Mozart's which may well have been returned due to non responsive screens, which seems to be a very common problem.
I have had 2 off the same chap now, one is OK but not perfect, the other one didnt work at all.
I would just keep returning them until you get one that works.
Sometimes you will find new combined digitiser/LCD's on ebay too, these would be a better bet but cost more.
Can someone who as changed a screen on this phone using Andys guide, please tell me how easy or hard it was, and how long does it take??
And would be grateful if someone could give me a link to the correct digitizer for this phone....
I am in the UK and have been qouted 50 pounds at a phone shop for the to supply and fit screen...
Did you see my post?
There were a couple of differences to this (Andy's) guide:
- Had to replace a speaker type thing at the top of the digitiser that was not present on the new one. Came off quite easily, just stuck in.
- Had to remove the USB port of the old case back (if you are replacing that too) but that was just a couple of screws
- You dont have to split the PCB off if doing this, you just take off the black clips to take it apart and then remove the orange ribbon cable, it is a little tricky to get the new one in but OK.
The most tricky thing for me was getting all the dust off the LCD and the digitsier, as soon as you get it apart things start sticking to it like crazy. Have a clean glasses cloth around.
It takes about an hour on your first go. The main thing is to get the orange ribbon cablle in fully, it can be tricky - you need to get a good grip on it (fold it a little) and push it home quite hard, otherwise you get it all back together and find it doesn't work.
I have had 2 dodgy screens off ebay, £50 sounds OK if it is a brand new original HTC screen.
Or just search for 'htc mozart digitiser' on ebayt there are loads.
hsclater said:
I have bought some off ebay. The problem is that these are almost always from returned Mozart's which may well have been returned due to non responsive screens, which seems to be a very common problem.
I have had 2 off the same chap now, one is OK but not perfect, the other one didnt work at all.
I would just keep returning them until you get one that works.
Sometimes you will find new combined digitiser/LCD's on ebay too, these would be a better bet but cost more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for that. A close look at the ones I bought from china I'm sure now are removed from phones with faulty digitizers, then repackaged as new. One of the three had significant dust and dirt on the inside of the digitiser screen. I've requested a refund via PalPal disputes.
I've ordered some digitizers from ecell in the UK. I'm led to believe by them that these are genuine HTC factory supplied spares.
KJ
I just replaced my 4th screen (1 broke, 2 dodgy).
This one is perfect - as new condition and works perfectly, my last one was not responsive in some situations e.g. lock screen.
This is the one I got (UK)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130498971267?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Of course, your mileage may vary - some are probably good, some not. Replace it, if it doesn't work ask for another, etc.
My new digitizers arrived today from the uk. Horray they are genuine HTC spare parts properly packaged. The downside is they don't include the frame the glass sit in and is adhered to.
So I watched the official HTC Mozart disassembly video on youtube to see how to remove the existing digitizer glass from the frame - got it apart ok after heating the unit to soften the adhesives but it didn't come away entirely cleanly i.e some of the adhesive foam broke away and was left on the underside of the glass.
So... check on eBay and found sellers selling refurbished screen frames ready for a new glass to be attached.
Will update on progress once they arrive.
KJ
just ordered my digitiser today... wish me luck...lol
poolielad said:
just ordered my digitiser today... wish me luck...lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I am now buzzing... have just changed my screen at it works perfect.....
£50 they wanted at the shop...it cost me £13....
Just to let you know how easy this is to do........If I can do it, anyone can..
Did anyone find a reliable supply in the end? I just cracked my digitiser so looking to replace it...
--edit--
Also, how much have others paid? Don't want to be ripped off for some sub-standard part.
Hello everybody,
I m trying to replace the digitiser of a HTC Mozart too.
It is really easy to do, even the part where you have to take off the digitiser from the plastic frame.
But I have an issue, it is the second digitiser I am using ( from the same ebay shop ) and the digitiser is working inverted vertically! Really strange but it is like that.
As the mobile phone is started up, when I push on a left buton, it push on a right button ! On the key board, when I press on "P" it press on "A" ( i m using an Azerty layout, I assume it should be "Q" on your layout ).
It is really anyoing of course.
It is the second screen I received from the Ebay shop and same issue, I don't think the problem come from my side, but I just want to ask to you all if somebody have an idea or the same issue once.
fx.lagwagon said:
Hello everybody,
I m trying to replace the digitiser of a HTC Mozart too.
It is really easy to do, even the part where you have to take off the digitiser from the plastic frame.
But I have an issue, it is the second digitiser I am using ( from the same ebay shop ) and the digitiser is working inverted vertically! Really strange but it is like that.
As the mobile phone is started up, when I push on a left buton, it push on a right button ! On the key board, when I press on "P" it press on "A" ( i m using an Azerty layout, I assume it should be "Q" on your layout ).
It is really anyoing of course.
It is the second screen I received from the Ebay shop and same issue, I don't think the problem come from my side, but I just want to ask to you all if somebody have an idea or the same issue once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mate, I had the same problem. However it seems no one was able to help me either.
I also purchased a digitizer from Ebay for my Mozart - the exact same inverted issue occurred with me. I wasn't able to find a solution.
I'm in Australia with a T8697 model. The digitizer I received from Ebay had a circle around the windows button at the bottom - This was not on my original screen.
In the end, I purchased a digitizer from an Australian business. Cost double the Ebay digitizer did, so I hope it works... Haven't received it yet, but I'll let you know when I put it in.
What model Mozart do you own?
Hi,
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).
Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
Continued...
SUMMARY/LEARNING:
- IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE
- IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!
- WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)
- WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD
I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Happened to me too!
Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.
So what have i learned from this?
1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)
Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
ThomasKJ said:
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be stouchscreenupported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have exact same problem with the touchscreen. X-AXIS is reverted but not fully, touchscreen works off pressing like a mirror on the left to the right.
I'ts video youtu.be/XUN_0q5I4ng
my touchscreen partnumber is same.
Сould you upload photos of the touchscreen cables differences between what you had originally and those that worked not correctly?
Where did you find the part number for the digitzer? Is it near the tiny QR code, or on it?
I have the same problem x-axis is reverted. Still wonder why? The original broken glass/digitizer was working fine.
Please share if you guys found the solution. I will do it too.
Thank!
Theres a vid about this. i will post it soon. i'm only using my phone. my prime is with my dad in china. i dont know when i'm getting it back in 2 or mor week i guess? surely i'll be noob again when i get it back.
I have the same problem too. Broken digitizer & lcd.. Got a replacement digitizer and the x-axis was inverted, sent it back and got the full refund.
After that i texted a few mails with another seller that knows the problem, he told me there are two versions of digitizers for the tf201. He sent out the (i hope) right one today, I will post the seller if this one works (takes about two weeks to get it..)
OP started this thread in another forum I found via google search where some guy figured out how to fix the x-axis problem by changing something in the source.. however I think he will release a patch after some more testing but he can't test right now because he has no lcd atm. Here's the thread:
bit.ly/OXx6us (hope it's allowed to post this)
same thing
I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.
I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)
Here is my video:
digitizer on the way from China
Any one find a solution for this yet?
I have a digitizer on the way from China.
Just a bump to catch someones attention I hope.
I'm waiting to hear from someone if they found a supplier that will send the right screen, or if they know how to compile the kernel to make the screwed up screens work right.
Kind of holding off ordering mine at the moment.
All of a sudden there are a lot of these for sale on Ebay.
And there hasn't been much chatter on defective ones lately.
Makes me wonder if it was just a specific seller that had a bad batch.
Caught a guy trying to sell his TF201 with a broken LCD that he claims broke while replacing the digitizer.
Turns out he is trying to sell his with one of the inverted digitizers and not stating so in the auction.
I ordered a replacement from New Jersy and canceled the one from china I will see what happens when it gets here.
I will definately test it before I tape it down.
If it works let me know. I'm in Canada and would rather pay a bit more for a properly working one than some knockoff that I have to be a programmer to get working.
Any news on your replacement yet?
Nightpath said:
Any news on your replacement yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my second replacement-digitizer and it's inverted too.. so frustrating!
As there are so many people with this problem I hope some expierienced guy will take a look at the touchscreen-driver and post a little workaround. It is possible to fix this problem by editing the driver but I don't know how it exactly has to be done.
I will share my problem.
My screen broke, however, the LCD and touch still worked.
I ordered a new screen for ASUS authorized service, because using a tablet with a cracked screen is horrible.
I thought it would be posted only the digitizer, but no, the Asus offers LCD screen with digitizer, it is not necessary to work to separate the two parts.
A professional did the replacement.
The problem is that the new set is crazy.
When the tablet is horizontal | === |,
* think that is vertically
| = |
| = |
* and otherwise also.
I think I was unlucky.
* I'm about to order a new set, this time, buy direct from asusparts.eu
Hmmm...where exactly did you order your first digitizer (touchscreen)? And that site you linked sucks, no pictures of any of the items to make sure you're getting the right one.
Received mine yesterday, [email protected]#$** piece of crap!!
It is inverted,it is going back.
First they wanted to give me a discount to keep it, idiots!
Then theyy want to send me another in exchange, they don't seem to understand the problem is they are all going to be the same if they are from the same batch.
Any one found a source for a good one yet?
I am going to try and see if Asus will sell them directly to the end user.
They sell laptop parts, so maybe they will do a digitizer.
I'll post my findings.
Cool. I work long days here in Canada (military, sigh) so I don't get much of a chance to do anything. Let me know as soon as you find out TRJ
I picked up a Nokia 920 with a cracked glass/digitizer for cheap. Everything else works fine and I always wanted a cheap way to try out a Windows Phone. But now I'm having an extremely hard time finding a good replacement digitizer. I need to replace it because the glass on these phones is so thick and sharp it'll actually cut fingers. Very different from most Android phones I've worked with. I've tried several different sellers on eBay and had no luck. The first one had a perfectly matching ribbon cable but the touch didn't work at all. The next two had a different chip placement on the ribbon cable and the touch worked, but the home and search button didn't, though the back button did.
I'm wary of trying yet another eBay seller because the last one took a month to refund me and tried endlessly to jerk me around. The digitizers on Amazon all have horrible ratings too or else I'd try one of them. Replacing the LCD as a whole unit isn't an option either because I read somewhere there were three different digitizers used on the 920 that are all identical except for slight differences in the chips on the ribbon cable. So a new display could possibly have an incompatible digitizer.
Does anyone know where to get a reliable digitizer that doesn't cost more than a whole phone? With 32GB on board, wireless charging and snappy response with WP8.1 I'd actually like to use this phone.
Hi, I bought for about 22 EUR a digitizer and AMOLED replacement which works for my Lumia 920.1. I will PN you the link.
Best regards,
Joachim