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Does anyone know what the connector for external antennas on the back of the wizard is called? I want to build a custom antenna that I can embed into my clothing to improve reception at school. I can't use a regular antenna since phones aren't allowed to be used at school.
HDR said:
Does anyone know what the connector for external antennas on the back of the wizard is called? I want to build a custom antenna that I can embed into my clothing to improve reception at school. I can't use a regular antenna since phones aren't allowed to be used at school.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The antenna part is:
P/N:36H00341-00M "Antenna Pre-Assy, AMPHENOL, GAN40023, PRODIGY"
I am attaching 2 pictures, the first you can see the Antenna Assembly (silver chunky thing above the case) and a second picture of the main board. You can see the brass connector just above the bar code.
This connector type is an AMPHENOL (brand) FME...at least it should be. One of these days I'll get and antenna.
--M
PS when you get the antenna, get a connector that at least has a 90degree bend in it. You might want to try http://www.wilsonelectronics.com
I have one
I grabbed one of those adapters, unfortunately, I cannot remember where. One end (FME) fits into the back of the phone with the 90 degree plug, the other end on mine is a TNC connector. I got that as I had a couple of spare antennas that use TNC.
It does improve the reception. I use the antenna's in the vehicle when on the highway to maintain reception. (I have no problems in the city)
Depending on your device, you may want to update the Radio ROM, if you haven't already. This doesn't flash/reset your phone, but does update the radio. This might resolve your problem without spending any money.
I am using the 2.47.11 Radio ROM and it did make a difference. My device is the T-Mobile MDA (Wizard). In a particular location, where I would get zero reception, I now get one bar...and that's all the difference I need.
P.S. If you do get this adapter, be careful when plugging it in and during use. Remember that FME connector is attached to the circuit board.
ok i may have this completely wrong as i have not tested it yet but i noticed on the back of my tg01 i had 2 round black stickers, one top left, one middle left.
After peeling this stickers off i have 2 little ports which look remarkably like the ports used on internal wifi chips (laptops, nintendo ds) which the areial plugs into for the wifi signal
We can now enhance the tg01's wifi reception with a little careful wire placement
i hope his helps someone with the wifi reception & maybe better battery life as its not having to try so hard for a signal
comments?
Are you sure one of those are not for a external GSM antenna? Like for using in a car
no, i did think this but they are to small. only 2-3mm across. i know what im talking about when it comes to hardware, they are definitely wifi ant. ports.
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?i...internal+wifi+connector&um=1&hl=en&tbs=isch:1
this site has loads of pics and prices for the relevant hardware
its called an ipx connector, the pigtails they sell can be used to act as the antennae.
i think this could be a good thing
that connector u linked in is a standard connector used with laptop wifi card , they have a little pin in the middle , the connector on the tg01 has no pin in the middle , the ring around it is the shading
kk here is what i know so far.....
most (if not all) builtin wifi chips have an antenae port out, i know this through research with the nintendo ds, and internal laptop chip on various laptops ranging from toshiba to sony.
they commonly have two of the ipx ports for the loop with the wifi flylead.
it may be possible qualcomm have used a proprietary ipx adapter for extra sales through the hardware of there chipset or toshiba have gotten the grubby little hands on it and done it that way
we need people who want to run an experiment on this and find out if they are what i think they are or if im completely wrong
volunteers????
i happen to have a connector ur looking for , but , it doesnt have a pin in the middle and its 90' angled so it wont fit unless i get the back cover off ... with that said , i dont have a 3angled srewdriver thats needed
... ill make some pics later
could it be possible the snapdragon chipset has done away with the pin for a design point? they may be purely there as a dud bit of hardware as qualcomm have directly etched the wifi ant onto pcb and not allowing the flylead?
or...
they may be semi usable with the core (the bit with the pin) etched onto the pcb and the earth allowed to be enhanced by just using the outer rim of these ipx ports?
or...
im totally wrong and as well as the usb host function you could attach a couple of jump leads to the beast via these ports and jump start that big ol v8 what keeps stalling?
Perhaps they could be test points, do you think you can show us a photograph?
i will upload pics tomorrow, they wont be great quality as i have to use my wifes blackberry for em and it dont take great up close pics.
test points are a possibility, tbh it did cross my mind but usually there just dotson the pcb, not ports, but it is a more advanced piece of hardware.
just out of interest but if you were to hook it up with the ports via usb, there would be a chance you could damage it because of the power usb ports output. if it turns out to be wifi then your gonna blow the chip or worse.
but if you want to try it then by all means psot results
hope this help
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5106/p1210021g.jpg
nice one!
looks like it connects two aerials for better wifi/radio
compare the connector with this
i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss28/linyedongwyl/Intel-5300-half.jpg
thats the connector for the ipx that has been linked earlier , this is a little different , it would be nice to see what the connectors look like on the tg's wires?
alrite , lets compare this baby to the xperia x1
www.phonewreck.com/wiki/images/b/b2/Xperia_x1_pcb_1.jpg
u can clearly see it also has two unused connectors of the same kind wich appear to be unused /but on tg the two upper ones were connected on the pcb!!!/
as for the interconnection of unknown function on the backplate they used the battery cover to pass it thru(the cover's back is unpainted on thoose specific points to give conduction) if it were to just hold the cover in place the would of left the paint on
see the four pins on the phone around the battery
www.ubergizmo.com/photos/2009/3/xperia-x1-battery.jpg
so i was right, we can get better wifi signal with these ports.
and then
better signal + less energy needed = better battery life
and the SE using the conductor pins for the back cover they have used that on the old w series of phones to. no real idea of what it does though
thanks to those who uploaded pics, helped out a lot with explaining what they are and the circuit detail.
so who' gonna be the first to install this on there phone and so testing for battery life and signal improvement?
Did you get anywhere with this? Very interested!
This sort of thing would surely work:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/800-900-1...099221?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ced70add5
IPX antenna.
Alternatively.. what would almost 100% work is a replacement antenna cable for the tg01
Although I could be wrong... if you look at this review of the LG P990 (Optimus 2X) you will notice the two different types of connector: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4144/...gra-2-review-the-first-dual-core-smartphone/9
External aerial points for testing the phones at the factory? Can they be used/abused to get an external or bigger aerial setup? What connector is that without the pin????????
Update.. is it an MMCX connector ? (or even MMCX-KC). I am tempted to buy one from ebay (although my TG01 is bricked LMAO, at least I'd know if it fit!) Pretty certain now it's an MMCX connector. Now trouble is... you can get that connector for GSM and GPS... so what are the connectors for I wonder.
For example.. I have terrible reception in the office so having a bigger external aerial on the phone may help, but I'd be interested in a better GPS cable as well Let's have some fun!
EDIT: OR.. I just had a look at my Moto V3i external connection and that is almost identical to the connectors on the TG01.. and it looks like you can get an aerial/antenna kit for the v3/v3i Might give it ago but it's pricey at about £20 :-(
LMAO @ this link: http://www.ehow.com/how_7580234_increase-reception-v3i.html Fancy testing a paperclip guys?
Well... I just ordered a 3G/UMTS antenna from china (so will be a while) with a MMCX connector. I will let you guys know if it fits AND works
Another edit LOL: I also just ordered another external antenna. This time for the V3i RAZR, as it looks like it has the same connector type as the TG01, so will give that a go. Only cost £8.05 for the adaptor and the antenna, so not 'too' bad for something that should fit.
I noticed a weird connector at the back of the device, I dont have a way to picture it at the moment but I found it on the internet.
Its under the cover in the red circle I draw,
Do any of you know what its good for?
eranyanay said:
I noticed a weird connector at the back of the device, I dont have a way to picture it at the moment but I found it on the internet.
Its under the cover in the red circle I draw,
Do any of you know what its good for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it is for attaching a stylus.You just loop the thread through it and close the cover.
It's meant for a wristband. You can buy the accessory, loop it through that hole, and then close the back cover (so it never falls off).
Are you sure about it...?
I think you're wrong,
the wristband/small things you put on your phone like small dolls is the yellow square
this one is something different.
It its a connector for an external gsm antenna. However be warned, do not plug any thing in to it as others have reported this will disable the internal antenna and you will not get a signal afterwards without a visit to a service centre or some soldering.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1273292&highlight=antenna
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
I've seen that type of connector on other phone's in the past. I always thought it was for an external antenna. I'm not sure though.
Edit: mrm1 just beat me to it ^^^
That was my first impression, after seeing a similar connection for the wifi antenna in laptop's hardware..
Thanks, and of course, Im not planning to connect anything to it anyway
Hello , When I first Purchased my Evo 3D, I noticed that any usb cable attached to it would never fit snug it always had movement like wiggled alot. I should have exchanged it but didn;t think it would eventually lead to serious damage until now, well, somehow the first pin on the right broke off and checking online with research it apparently is the +5 of the usb. Which basically screwed me.
I don't have much of an issue with no longer having the usb data sync ability since I can just use a micro SD adapter, and I have an External Battery Charger from Radio shack which helps because I can just charge the batteries with that and insert in my evo3d But the issue I have now is I realize i rely on the 4G tethering ability which i use constantly and it has become a pain to have to run and switch over batteries so my wifi tethering can maintain my computers online.,
Anyway so noticed a few evo 4g mods online where the person would solder two wires one to the negative and other to the 5v positive where the usb is located and then shape the wires nicely and make a custom usb hole somewhere else on the phone and eventually have a usb charging ability similar to one of the attached pictures ( for evo 4g of course not for the 3d)
So anyway i would like to try something similar where i can just locate some solid solder points on the phone and wire up two 5v and ground wires and relocate a custom usb slot somewhere else on the phone, Below is also some zoom closeups of the evo 3d board so my question is any advice to where I can solder the 5v and ground to, I am clueless to where and what points i should try the underside of the usb slot is all metal so seems like not able to solder there maybe on one of the little chips or something perhaps
,, thanks for any help
in reference to the attached images:
the one with the 5v writing is for an Evo 4g Not 3d But Im putting this picture i found online just to give a similar idea of what i need to find on the 3d
the one with the wired shell mod us just Another photo online of what I want to do but once again need the solder points
the other two are the best closeup pictures I could find of the 3d which maybe someone can just point out to me the locations by looking at it, I will take clear zoomed in photos if needed when I have access to a camera at home
thanks anyone for your help!
Why don't you just take it to Sprint and have them repair it? They'll do it for free.
Not from I heard. They charge 100 to fix it. And not even sure they would give me a loaner phone in the meantime. Also , I went into RADIOSHACK and showed and.spoke to one of the reps and he.told me.I wouldhave to pay unless I had their extended warrantee.. I noticed a resistor like chip above.and in front of where the 5v pin is.I wonder if I can solder on that
Sent from hell
suddene said:
Not from I heard. They charge 100 to fix it. And not even sure they would give me a loaner phone in the meantime. Also , I went into RADIOSHACK and showed and.spoke to one of the reps and he.told me.I wouldhave to pay unless I had their extended warrantee.. I noticed a resistor like chip above.and in front of where the 5v pin is.I wonder if I can solder on that
Sent from hell
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Call sprint and talk to a supervisor. They will send you a new phone or set up repair for free. Call and hang up twice, then call again to get sent directly to a supervisor.
Unfortunately me being a tinkerer ended up breaking off the ground pin and was not able to get serviced , even tried the supervisor and no go, I tried another radioshack and sprint store and of course they noticed it was opened so screwed me out...
anyway,, I taken some fair quality images of the board surface. maybe a +5v location can be pointed out from the images? thanks again
suddene said:
Unfortunately me being a tinkerer ended up breaking off the ground pin and was not able to get serviced , even tried the supervisor and no go, I tried another radioshack and sprint store and of course they noticed it was opened so screwed me out...
anyway,, I taken some fair quality images of the board surface. maybe a +5v location can be pointed out from the images? thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this is old. But did you ever figure it out? I need a 5v+ location as well. I want to do the inductive charging mod on the 3D.
xkravenx said:
I know this is old. But did you ever figure it out? I need a 5v+ location as well. I want to do the inductive charging mod on the 3D.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Instead of making a new thread, I figured I would add to this... I too am trying to mod mine with inductive charging, unfortunately my hands are a little too shaky to solder to the point that I discovered to be continuous with the +5v on the usb port.
I can't really find a clear picture of the PCB anywhere otherwise I would show you, but its about a centimeter or two down from the top left when you open your phone, run your multimeter through those points and you'll find it.
I guess I came here looking for another point..
suddene said:
Unfortunately me being a tinkerer ended up breaking off the ground pin and was not able to get serviced , even tried the supervisor and no go, I tried another radioshack and sprint store and of course they noticed it was opened so screwed me out...
anyway,, I taken some fair quality images of the board surface. maybe a +5v location can be pointed out from the images? thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
xkravenx said:
I know this is old. But did you ever figure it out? I need a 5v+ location as well. I want to do the inductive charging mod on the 3D.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
bronx623 said:
Instead of making a new thread, I figured I would add to this... I too am trying to mod mine with inductive charging, unfortunately my hands are a little too shaky to solder to the point that I discovered to be continuous with the +5v on the usb port.
I can't really find a clear picture of the PCB anywhere otherwise I would show you, but its about a centimeter or two down from the top left when you open your phone, run your multimeter through those points and you'll find it.
I guess I came here looking for another point..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PLEASE PM me.. those fo you with a broken port, I might have solution for you (nothing shady promise just trying to help where I can, I'll explain once I'm PM'ed). The other guy if all your trying is inductive charging sorry LOL
bronx623 said:
Instead of making a new thread, I figured I would add to this... I too am trying to mod mine with inductive charging, unfortunately my hands are a little too shaky to solder to the point that I discovered to be continuous with the +5v on the usb port.
I can't really find a clear picture of the PCB anywhere otherwise I would show you, but its about a centimeter or two down from the top left when you open your phone, run your multimeter through those points and you'll find it.
I guess I came here looking for another point..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm thanks. I will try it when I open the phone. The soldering point should be bigger than the micro-usb pin I would hope.
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
4. Thankyou in advance.
cangguek said:
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that thing and cannot be use anymore. Now in the USB feeder of Archos just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (only 4 USB metal pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, it is bricked because of no battery power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuups this is bad...
cangguek said:
It is just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit. 3 times emailed [email protected] with no response as the world has suspected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
cangguek said:
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if anyone can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
cangguek said:
2. Can anyone share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
cangguek said:
3. I've search this on thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557506, but the information provided on how to dismantle is not very clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
cangguek said:
4. Thankyou in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!
scholbert
scholbert,
I don't know how should I thanks for your detailed information and photo on your reply.
Below my comment:
1. There is no abuse on the USB port (even no single scratch or dent to prove the abuse, from new I feel it is really tight when I connect the cable into the port, finally the plastic part comes out "cleanly" along with the USB cable connector when I unplug. That's way I try to bet the warranty honor...ray.
2. I've checked eBay and I find many type of micro USB port selling.
3. Based on the generous help you've written I will try to dismantle my Archos when I have spare time within this week.
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
6. Big thankyou again for your response.
cangguek said:
4. If I may ask, for what purpose you dismantle your Archos. And did you find any problem something like not properly tight when you remantle it again?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if i got a second edition device, but i realized this screen issue as well (pressure on the back causes effects on the display).
So i thought i may open it and try to solve this issue.
Anyway i always like to investigate on the construction of these devices...
cangguek said:
5. From the picture, are all the clamps just on the display side, or mix up and down between the base and display?. Appreciate if you can post the zoom picture of the clamp and the hole to know it's anatomy to make easier when pushing during dismantle process. I also seeing 4 screw-like holes on 4 corner, are they also something like alignment clamps without actual screw?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be exact, the clamps are located all on the base unit.
The display side got the holes for the clamps. I'll see if i could make a more detailed picture, to point you in the right direction.
Though i'm not sure if it helps.
The srew like holes you pointed at are for alignment only.
I also found some glue in the holes, but this is no problem.
Some words on seperation...
It worked out like this on the long side of the housing (upper and lower):
- I tried to seperate the display part and the base with the plectrum step by step
- tried to locate each clamp step by step
- then used a screwdriver
- tried to press gently against the clamp, direction outside to inside
(be very careful and the long side at the bottom, because of the display flex cable)
- then try to lift the parts more and more (it's terrible, but it works)
- keep an eye on the torsion of the display side
(seperate the parts too much, might crack the screen)
I guess i'll prepare some more pics...
Stay tuned!
scholbert
You are really a man god sent to me, thankyou so much. I'm really itching to do the job. First thing I will do once dismantle completed, is to wire two lines for temporary charging until the part I order arrive. If by any chance impossible to replace micro USB port, then I will make hole on the base for common round type DC charging port + and - only.
Hey cangguek,
as promised, here are some detailed views of the clamps (base unit) and holders (display side).
The are four holders in total with two holes each.
The holders are seperate parts and are mounted with three screws in the display part of the housing. Each holder fits into two clamps of the base unit.
Unfortunately they can only get disassembled after you managed to open the housing.
The edge of the clamps point to the border of the base unit housing.
So you may try to push them gently to the inside to release the mating part at the display side.
Anyway i hope things are clear enough now...
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Good luck!!!
scholbert
scholbert said:
Some words on your idea of soldering a DC charging port:
Electrically this would work i guess, but there might be some driver issue which could prevent the unit from charging.
It depends on how the charger is identified by the software driver, which activates the charging process.
On some devices it is required to shorten the data lines of the usb connector, others use the id pin on the micro usb to detect wether a host pc or a wall charger is connected. I don't know how things are done on the Archos 80 G9.
I just wanted to point that out before you start soldering...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
-There must be something done to 4th (unused) pin in micro sd plug so device can detect Archos/"normal" cables (my guess- check data lines->if usb host not present check 4th pin->original=fast charge/3rd party=slow charge)
gen_scheisskopf said:
-Data lines are not shorted, charging cable is a fully functional usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
scholbert said:
Yeah i know that the data lines in the cable are not shorted.
AFAIK, they get shorted when connected to the wall charger.
I own a Milestone phone (which definitely requires the lines shorted for charging) and i successfully used the Archos wall charger to charge this device.
At least i wanted to point in this direction...
Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok
-data lines are shorted together in charger (not to gnd/vcc)
-that's strange but 4th pin seems not to be connected anywhere
sorry, left empty.
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Thankyou for helping me:
cangguek said:
Dear scholbert,
All the process as you said really a devil. I am stuck here (at red arrow) and can not proceed unless I tear it with force. Seems there different clamps ?.
Now I am stopping the the job waiting your further help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i know it hurts... but AFAIK all the clamps are identical.
Nevertheless i realized the same during disassembly.
Some of the clamps did release quite well, at some point i also was afraid i'll break the device into pieces. I'm sorry but i guess you'll have to use gentle force to get it seperated.
BTW, i don't want to be responsible if you damage something
Another warning at this point:
I even did break some small plastics during opening (in the mainboard area), but it doesn't matter in the end, because there are many clamps to hold the parts in place
Good luck!
scholbert
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here. I am still not continuing dismantle process, but at least 40% of the casing has been opened.
cangguek said:
Just to confirm the only screw I removed only the one under the stand stick, I hope I am not missing here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only one screw...
Regards,
scholbert
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
someone needs to get out the old dustbuster
cangguek said:
Man..., wtf, bottom pin of micro-usb (for desoldering purpose) covered with external card slot...grrrrr,....
Please look at the usb pin inside the housing, only metal pins only remain, the plastic part were come-off sticked-out along with usb charger cable. Anyone would come with idea on how to trick my situation?. Removing external card-slot then removing micro USB port seems a big job to me. The solder were very-very tiny...
I have completely separated and disconnect the wires of my Archos, so I have two part now: the base and the display part.
Anyone asking specific picture parts of my Archos, I am ready to shoot.
View attachment 1057101 View attachment 1057102View attachment 1057103
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I am happy to see these pictures as they confirm my suspicion. The usb charge port is only soldered on, no screws to hold it in place. That is not a proper mechanical construction and it is no winder it becomes disconnected with only a little use. I have sent 2 units back already which will no longer charge as the mount point has come loose. Number 3 broke too now and as they want me to pay for shipment again ( €50) I am thinking of fixing it myself in stead, but properly..
I have the same problem
Did you eventually repair this problem. If so were did you get the spare part. i have got the same problem. I think i might try returning to my supplier first.
Brilliant tips
scholbert said:
Uuups this is bad...
It's sad that they did not reply, but do you think it is covered by warranty if your borked the USB connector?
There's only a single screw at the back.
The housing is hold together by some plastic clamps and it is a pain to open the case (at least compared to a A101IT Gen8).
You really need some force and be very careful not to damage anything...
I'll post a few pics this week in a different thread, because i opened the device last week and it was little bit catchy
Usually this is not an easy task... at least for the unexperienced ones.
Be careful with the thin lines on that PCB.
To unsolder the connector you'll need a lot of heat because it is connected to the gorund plane of the mainboard.
Anyway i don't know the manufacturer, but i guess these MicroUSB connectors are all pretty similar.
So try to catch one, wherever it is sold.
You should start on the opposite side of the connectors and use some plectrums (used by guitar players) to lift off the plastic clamps.
As i said i'll prepare some pics...
EDIT: Here's an overview on how i opened the case.
As already stated it was a pain, and though i had been very careful, some tiny plastics got damaged.
The red circles mark the plastic clamps and the holes they were stucked in respectively.
The green arrows mark the direction i slided my guitar plectrum.
In between you'll have to use something like a screwdriver or putty knife to lift the clamps from their counterparts (this was the evil part).
In the end lift the top of the housing in the yellow direction.
Please take care of the flat cables of the TFT display, don't rip it off!!!
You're welcome!
scholbert
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Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
topsterdog said:
Great tips & will add my own step by step as replacing my screen on G9 after it parachuted from 2 foot onto a rubber floor!!:good:
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I'd be very interested in this and to learn where you bought the replacement screen...
I have an 80G9 with cracked screen and LCD and busted digitiser.
Sent from my ARCHOS 101G9