Related
Hey,
So I used to have the Titan. Often I would take out the battery and just use the phone without it in *edited* while plugging into the wall, in order to save the battery for later....or to avoid the battery from over heating and shutting down services on the phone.
Pretty simple:
Is there anyway to program the phone to stay on with the battery out *edited* with the wall charger in? Seems like if on the Titan you could do it, here you should be able to as well?
Edited for xander
just because you were high and seeing stars doesnt mean you can operate a phone with no power unless you have a wall charger. although you failed to mention that so this thread should be kaput.
the above reply was almost as bad as the original thread post.
giggly
I definitely should have read over what I was about to post.
anyhow, any solutions?
Mine works just fine without the battery in if I plug it in......... no mod needed??
You do realize that once the battery is completely charged it is no longer charging. Just about EVERYTHING Li-Ion is "smart charged."
The batteries would burst into flames if continuously charged.
I have had a VERY low battery (5% or lower) and plugged into a 500ma power supply (typical USB charger, not HTC factory) and while really taxing the phone (streaming skyfire flash videos back when Hulu worked) and it would only charge the phone 10 percent in about 20 minutes. Sometimes it seemed it wasn't charging at all. The phone is really sucking some current, cellular radio downloading large amounts of data, processor is blazing running skyfire.
Now with the HTC factory charger being a 1000ma (1A) power supply it could obviously supply enough power for the TP at "full demand."
Goes back to the original question.
WHY?
It isn't serving any benefit. Li-Ion does not have a charge "memory" like old NiCd batteries or NiMh. Yes there are a certain amount of charges the battery can take but again, the phone is a smart charger. Once the battery is at full capacity (you want a charged battery right?) it no longer is charging. There is no battery degredation occuring.
to simply answer the op and not beat him to death with words, there is an easy answer to the question... no, there is no software to be able to do what you want for 2 reasons. one, there is extreamly low demand for the application. people here don't generally spend a week or 2 making a program to make one person happy. they'll do it for a hundred people though. two, i could be wrong about this reason but i don't believe that the hardware will allow it. it's designed to have the electricity run to the battery first, then the phone draws the energy from the battery for use. to my knowledge the phone doesn't have a way to be able to use the energy from the charging port directly. sorry champ, the only way that you are going to get this done is with an electrical engineering degree, soddering iron, and the circuit blueprints themselves.
to simply correct the poster aboive and still think about beating him to death...
yes it is possible, no you do not need extra software... and yes the hardware supports it... Im sorry I personally don't know how to do [email protected]: But if you post over @ PPCGeeks im sure they'll figure it out for ya.
I know it's possible for two reasons... If your phone is plugged Via USB in the bootloader, you may take the battery out. Also, on a ROM that I had installed previously my phone froze for about 2 mins and the battery was blazing so i took it out... To my surprise it was still on (i was tethering) and working perfectly! ZOMG...I love people who answer unknowingly...
For the person who said the smart remark about the lithium battery, im sure the OP knew that, but requires the phone to work with the battery off after he was done charging it... This would let him tether or do what it is that he needs endlessly without worrying about the battery overheating...
In other words, if you're not here to help, then sthu... Dont ***** about his question, dont insult him... Either help, or move on...
Tilde88 said:
For the person who said the smart remark about the lithium battery, im sure the OP knew that, but requires the phone to work with the battery off after he was done charging it... This would let him tether or do what it is that he needs endlessly without worrying about the battery overheating...
In other words, if you're not here to help, then sthu... Dont ***** about his question, dont insult him... Either help, or move on...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh, I tell you what there buddy. I'll take your post seriously when you can learn some grammar. For all I know I'm talking to a 12 year old know it all who ALSO doesn't know how to keep his mouth shut.
I WAS offering help, by telling him that there is NO POINT in removing the battery. I implied NO disrespect with my post.
If you are referring to problems with certain software causing the phone to overheat and restart/lock up... again that has NOTHING to do with the battery. For example WMWifiRouter, or streaming high kbps video.
The wifi/cellular radio/processor is what is generating the heat.
If you're not charging the battery (IE battery=100%) then there is NO HEAT GENERATED. The heat is not coming from the battery.
poor_red_neck said:
Uh, I tell you what there buddy. I'll take your post seriously when you can learn some grammar. For all I know I'm talking to a 12 year old know it all who ALSO doesn't know how to keep his mouth shut.
I WAS offering help, by telling him that there is NO POINT in removing the battery. I implied NO disrespect with my post.
If you are referring to problems with certain software causing the phone to overheat and restart/lock up... again that has NOTHING to do with the battery. For example WMWifiRouter, or streaming high kbps video.
The wifi/cellular radio/processor is what is generating the heat.
If you're not charging the battery (IE battery=100%) then there is NO HEAT GENERATED. The heat is not coming from the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha yea i know my grammar sucks... its cuz im 11teen...
idiot im an english major... just cuz i like to use ellipses doesnt mean ****.
you have to be the biggest dumbass yet... i just said that if you are tethering your battery will heat up... because you are using the clealluer rdaio for teh bndawthd, in whcih intornet youzes kilobits per second...
haha whatever...
what a poor redneck duck
Double Post...
Ok smartass.
Explain to me how tethering your phone with a charger plugged in and the battery already being charged causes the battery to heat up.
Think long and hard about your answer. Go ahead and post with your "mAd tyt3 h4x tyP1ng s|<Illz DAWG!"
I'm a ****ing electrical engineer, with a Masters. Take your poems and books and literature discussion groups and go **** yourself.
Only way that is going to happen is if the phone is consuming more current than the charger can provide.
IE: The phone is consuming 650ma, but a typical USB charger can only supply 500ma. In that case then the even simpler answer is NO you cannot use a charging adapter with no battery plugged in.
If you're a car guy here's an even better analogy.
Your car has an alternator (generates current) and a battery (stores current).
If your car's alternator is rated at 100A, then at a specified RPM your alternator generates 100 amps of current.
However, at idle your alternator may only be generating 40A.
If you're sitting at a traffic light and your headlights are on, heater blower fan is going, window wipers are on, heated seats are on... you're consuming more power than the alternator can provide. So the car is pulling current from the battery. The second you leave the traffic light and accelerate and your engine is spinning fast enough that the alternator can generate enough current to supply the demand and charge the battery.
Easy buddies!
We all are here to share knowledge we have to each other right?
Plz. don't let a small thing cause big problems!
Please!!!!
as hippy-rific as navi_mappers statement is, i have to agree with him. people are getting a little too angry about this. it was a simple question. unfortunatly it has been answered in contradictory ways. one thing has remained true in most posts though: there is little reason to do what he was trying to do. i believe that he can take that and walk with it. there's no reason that we (as educated and intelligent people) need to resort to name calling and slander. i'd like to think that we are a little better than that. so shut up, stop *****ing and answer the mans question with intelligence damn it! i'd expect this kind of stupid crap over at crackberry.com, not here.
thanks
Thanks for those that replied in an appropriate way.
yeah,some may need therapy in this thread...
haha yea i was havin a bad week... my bad guys
I got an replacement due to my phone beyond repair.
I'm running original stock firmware, of-course rooted. Since the replacement I'm trying to get my phone to full charge but it doesn't and also I notice that the charging is quite slow.
I installed "Battery Monitor Widget" to see how much power it is drawing and found that AC power draws only about 350+mA and sometimes it is as low as 8mA. (Some times it draws about 750+mA). I notice that the temperature also reaches somewhere about 45 to 48 degree.
Once it reaches about 90% or so, it starts to drain battery instead of charing it.
I find it quite abnormal. Anyone with this kind of problem and found an solution?
Thanks in advance for the replies and suggestions.
What I'd sudjest is updating your phone through seus or PC companion or if your an American at & t user update to a newer firmware through the flash tool (you can find I link to it through my signiture) or if you can't update try and use the repair option through seus or PC compainion.
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
The Gingerbread Man said:
What I'd sudjest is updating your phone through seus or PC companion or if your an American at & t user update to a newer firmware through the flash tool (you can find I link to it through my signiture) or if you can't update try and use the repair option through seus or PC compainion.
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.
I did that yesterday. I repaired the firmware and reloaded all the application one by one from scratch. The only thing I restored is contacts so that I could eliminate all the other factors which can cause this issue.
My other suggestion would be to install xrecovery and wipe your battery stats I guess. You can find a link to xrecovery through the link in my sig
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
The Gingerbread Man said:
My other suggestion would be to install xrecovery and wipe your battery stats I guess. You can find a link to xrecovery through the link in my sig
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks once again for the reply.
I tired that too every time I try to charge the phone. Still it refuses to complete the charging.
Any other suggestions are welcome.
What about off line charging ie; turning the phone off and doing that way?
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
The Gingerbread Man said:
My other suggestion would be to install xrecovery and wipe your battery stats I guess. You can find a link to xrecovery through the link in my sig
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 it helped me off this problem
Sent from my X10i using XDA App
The Gingerbread Man said:
What about off line charging ie; turning the phone off and doing that way?
Sent from my X10 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea. I will try that as well as try to do a clean wipe and just try to charge with nothing loaded in. That will give a better idea where the problem is.
Thanks for the great tip, I will update you tomorrow.
Had that happen before, I had to remove sim card and let it drain out slowly for a week, then charge. Problem solved
I think I had similar problem, except that my processor went on full load when its almost fully charged causing it to drain the battery instead. Still lookin for answer to that, will wiping battery stats help?
I reset my phone to factory and did a re-flashing again using SEUS and I tried it charging immediately without loading any application (only loaded Battery Monitor Widget from Market to see the battery temperature and mA units drawn) and wow, it charged like a normal X10. So I guess it has something to do with whatever I loaded or modded it with.
I'm trying to find it out. Later tonight I will try to load all the application one-by-one and try again to charge to see whether I can isolate it.
During this process, I did takeout my SIM card for a period of 1 hour or so, so not sure whether that did the trick (If that's the case, thanks to gogogu)
In the meantime, I have a strong feeling it would be due to the flashtool and new recovery, but again there isn't any proof. I suspect this because this is the new thing I did compared to my old phone.
Any thoughts are welcome.
Monitor the CPU usage as well
zymphonyx said:
Monitor the CPU usage as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have issues with processor. It works at full throttle when it supposed to work and then goes back to normal.
Hrmmm alright, but if you ever had the draining issue while charging and the battery temp rises up again. Check the CPU usage just incase
After yesterday's event, seems like stable (I did face the same issue once). Not sure which cured it and currently monitoring...
EDIT: Back to square one. The issue started again and the battery refues to fully charge! I'm going mad
Finally given up, sent for service and came back after 5 days of repair.
Repair Notes: No problem found !!!
But today morning I tried to charge and it's the same issue . Makes me go mad. Really, I don't know what to do!
Please help me friends .......
I too have exactly the same problem with my x10i.....
tried everything like rooting, using stock & custom ROMs, etc... still problem persist ...
while charging , power goes from 900mA to 200mA or lower, & doesn't reach 100% full...
i use current widget from market to read the power values ....
please help me friends .... to resolve my problem ...
Thanks a lot...
Makzer.
nobody replying
hello mates...
please reply to my problem dear friends ..
looking forward ...
LiveSquare said:
I got an replacement due to my phone beyond repair.
I'm running original stock firmware, of-course rooted. Since the replacement I'm trying to get my phone to full charge but it doesn't and also I notice that the charging is quite slow.
I installed "Battery Monitor Widget" to see how much power it is drawing and found that AC power draws only about 350+mA and sometimes it is as low as 8mA. (Some times it draws about 750+mA). I notice that the temperature also reaches somewhere about 45 to 48 degree.
Once it reaches about 90% or so, it starts to drain battery instead of charing it.
I find it quite abnormal. Anyone with this kind of problem and found an solution?
Thanks in advance for the replies and suggestions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What program do you use to check your battery temperature. I rememeber there was one that wass bettery draining. The same is also possible with battery level monitor
Sent from X10
Use this tool forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1415600
Please read this. There is a lot of batt info on xda just search
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=871051
I realize that much of this is common knowledge on XDA. Still, every day I see people post about how their phone "loses" 10% as soon as it comes off the charger. I also have friends who can't understand why their battery drains so quickly. Trying to explain this to people without hard numbers is often met with doubt, so I figured that I'd actually plot it out with real data.
So it's not a piece that is optimized for this audience, but I hope that you find it interesting.
--------------------------------------------------
Your Smartphone is Lying to You
(and it's not such a bad thing)
Climbing out of bed, about to start your day, you unplug your new smartphone from its wall charger and quickly check your email. You've left it plugged in overnight, and the battery gauge shows 100%. After a quick shower, you remember that you forgot to send your client a file last night. You pick up your phone again, but the battery gauge now reads 90%. A 10% drop in 10 minutes? The phone must be defective, right?
A common complaint about today's smartphones is their short battery life compared to older cell phones. Years ago, if you accidentally left your charger at home, your phone could still make it through a weeklong vacation with life to spare (I did it more than once). With the newest phones on the market, you might be lucky enough to make it through a weekend.
And why should we expect anything else? Phones used to have a very short list of features: make and receive phone calls. Today we use them for email, web surfing, GPS navigation, photos, video, games, and a host of other tasks. They used to sport tiny displays, while we now have giant touch screens with bright and vibrant colors. All of these features come at a cost: large energy requirements.
Interestingly enough, improvements in battery management technology have compounded the average user's perception of this problem. Older phones were rather inelegant in their charging behavior; usually filling the battery to capacity and then switching to a trickle current to maintain the highest charge possible. This offered the highest usage time in the short-term, but was damaging the battery over the course of ownership. As explained at Battery University, "The time at which the battery stays at [maximum charge] should be as short as possible. Prolonged high voltage promotes corrosion, especially at elevated temperatures."[1]
This is why many new phones will "lose" up to 10% within a few minutes of coming off the charger. The reality is that the battery was only at 100% capacity for a brief moment, after which the battery management system allowed it to slowly dip down to around 90%. Leaving the phone plugged in overnight does not make a difference: the phone only uses the wall current to maintain a partial charge state.
To monitor this, I installed CurrentWidget on my HTC ADR6300 (Droid Incredible), an app that can log how much electric current is being drawn from the battery or received from the charger. Setting it to record log entries every 10 seconds, I have collected a few days worth of data. While many variables are involved (phone hardware, ROM, kernel, etc) and no two devices will perform exactly the same, the trends that I will describe are becoming more common in new phones. This is not just isolated to a single platform or a single manufacturer.
Chart 1 shows system reported battery levels over the course of one night, with the phone plugged in to a charger. Notice that as the battery level approaches 100%, the charging current gradually decreases. After a full charge is reached, wall current is cut completely, with the phone switching back to the battery for all of its power. It isn't until about two hours later that you can see the phone starts receiving wall current again, and even then it is only in brief bursts.
The steep drop in reported battery seen past the 6.5 hour mark shows the phone being unplugged. While the current draw does increase at this point (since the phone is being used), it still cannot account for the reported 6% depletion in 3 minutes. It should also be obvious that maintaining a 100% charge state is impossible given the long spans in which the phone is only operating on battery power.
Using the data from CurrentWidget, however, it is quite easy to project the actual battery state. Starting with the assumption that the first battery percentage reading is accurate, each subsequent point is calculated based on mA draw and time. Chart 2 includes this projection.
Now we can see that the 6% drop after unplugging is simply the battery gauge catching up with reality.
The phone manufacturers essentially have three choices:
1. Use older charging styles which actually maintain a full battery, thereby decreasing its eventual life
2. Use new charging methods and have an accurate battery gauge
3. Use new charging methods and have the inaccurate battery gauge
Option one has clearly fallen out of favor as it prematurely wears devices. Option two, while being honest, would most likely be met with many complaints. After all, how many people want to see their phone draining down to 90% while it is still plugged in? Option three therefore offers an odd compromise. Maybe phone companies think that users will be less likely to worry about a quick drop off the charger than they will worry about a "defective" charger that doesn't keep their phone at 100% while plugged in.
Bump It. Or Should You?
One technique that has gained popularity in the user community is "bump charging." To bump charge a device, turn it off completely, and plug it into a charger. Wait until the indicator light shows a full charge (on the ADR6300, for example, the charging LED changes from amber to green) but do not yet turn the device back on. Instead, disconnect and immediately reconnect the power cord. The device will now accept more charge before saying it is full. This disconnect/reconnect process can be repeated multiple times, each time squeezing just a little bit more into the battery. Does it work?
The following chart plots battery depletion after the device has received a hefty bump charge (6 cycles) and then turned on to use battery power. Note that the system does not show the battery dropping from 100% until well over an hour of unplugged use, at which point it starts to steadily decline. Again, however, it should be obvious that the battery gauge is not syncing up with reality. How could the rate of depletion be increasing over the first 5 hours while the rate of current draw is relatively steady? And why does the projected battery line separate from the reported levels, but then exactly mirror the later rises and falls?
The answer, of course, is that bump charging definitely works. Rather than anchoring our projected values to the first data point of 100%, what happens if we anchor against a later point in the plot?
Aligning the data suggests that a heavy bump charge increases initial capacity by approximately 15%. Note that the only other time that the lines separate in this graph was once again when the phone was put on the charger and topped up to 100%. Just as with the first set of graphs, the phone kept reporting 100% until it was unplugged, dropped rapidly, and again caught up with our projections.
So what does it all mean?
If you absolutely need the highest capacity on a device like this, you will need to bump charge. There are currently people experimenting with "fixes" for this, but I have yet to see one that works. Be warned, however, that repeated bump charging will wear your battery faster and begin to reduce its capacity. If you are a "power user" who will buy a new battery a few months from now anyway, this presumably isn't a concern. If you are an average consumer who uses a device for a few years, I would recommend that you stay away from bump charging. The bottom line is that you don't really "need" to do it unless you are actually depleting your battery to 0% on a regular basis.
If you are someone who can top off your phone on a regular basis, do it. Plug it in when you're at home. Plug it in when you're at your desk. As explained by Battery University, "Several partial discharges with frequent recharges are better for lithium-ion than one deep one. Recharging a partially charged lithium-ion does not cause harm because there is no memory."[2]
Beyond that, the best advice I can offer is to stop paying such close attention to your battery gauge and to just use your phone. Charge it whenever you can, and then stop obsessing over the exact numbers. If you really need more usage time, buy an extended-capacity battery and use it normally.
From my XPERIA X10S v8.2 on JaBKerneL @ 1.15ghz
Hello all, I am new here and have been browsing through threads to get a feel. My question is in regards specifically to use with the HTC EVO View 4g Tablet. What would be the best way to use the alarm clock function while the device is on overnight? Should I just keep the charger plugged in or will this affect battery effectiveness in the long run? Also how, if at all, would Dock mode come into play? Help here would be greatly appreciated.
mcs5184 said:
Hello all, I am new here and have been browsing through threads to get a feel. My question is in regards specifically to use with the HTC EVO View 4g Tablet. What would be the best way to use the alarm clock function while the device is on overnight? Should I just keep the charger plugged in or will this affect battery effectiveness in the long run? Also how, if at all, would Dock mode come into play? Help here would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wrote a little post on the issue of batteries here which answers your question. There is more advice here.
From the perspective of battery usage, it's generally less good for the battery to be in use and plugged in. The reason why is that:
Some portable devices sit in a charge cradle in the on position. The current drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and can distort the charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic load because it induces mini-cycles. The battery is continuously being discharged to 4.20V/cell and then charged by the device. The stress level on the battery is especially high because the cycles occur at the 4.20V/cell threshold.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do have one hypothesis, and that is that it's more okay to leave the device docked and plugged into your USB, because the amperage for the USB charging is much lower.
However, what I can't comment on is how much harm this does in the long term.
Anyone find a charger that can actually charge the phone while using the GPS? I have a modified charger with the center pins tacked together and the Samsung genuine car charger, neither of which can keep up with the drain.
Anyone have positive evidence that their charging solution will at least maintain battery life while GPS + screen are running?
I'm at a loss and tired of spending money on chargers that aren't up to the task.
Thank you.
I have the Samsung car mount that comes with a Samsung car charger. Not sure if that's the same charger you have, but I've used it on a road trip so far and it definitely maintains and charges a little. 14 hours of driving btw.
I attempted to call Samsung Accessory support this morning to find out if that charger is different than the basic charger and they were giving me the run around. I didn't want to spend $XX on another charger unless I knew it had a higher output.
Can you give me the spec's on it?
I know the basic samsung charger only puts out 750mA.
I have used numerous chargers in the car while running GPS and none of them actually seem to charge the device; they just keep it "treading water".
Truth is, with the screen size being what it is, and likely both cores firing at full capacity, I don't think it's entirely realistic to expect the thing to charge while doing something so data intensive as GPS; especially, when you consider that your data signal can and will vary WILDLY while driving through different places, which absolutely and invariably will stress the battery even further, contributing to drain whether plugged in or not. That's a lot of work for a relatively small device to handle.
Just my $.02 coming from a mix of experience and common sense.
-Ryan
Guy above you says that his does.
Hell, I'd be happy with treading water, way better than the steep downhill fall I've got going on.
Can limit processor speed by throttling it manually with my OC kernel or by enabling the saving mode the phone has innately. Can reduce data by switching off 4G.
It doesn't need those things to run as a GPS. The GPS itself doesn't seem to eat much battery at all but I realize the screen is huge. However, how can this be a viable device if we can't figure out a way to make it WORK?
I hope that camaroz28 can get back to me on this.
fellstar said:
I attempted to call Samsung Accessory support this morning to find out if that charger is different than the basic charger and they were giving me the run around. I didn't want to spend $XX on another charger unless I knew it had a higher output.
Can you give me the spec's on it?
I know the basic samsung charger only puts out 750mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no writing on it at all so I have no idea what it's output current is.
As an aside, I've heard of a lot of people just getting a small DC->AC converter and then using the original wall charge adapter to charge in the car.
There are two very good posts about this very topic.
This one recommends a charger:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1538341
It also has a link in the OP to the other post about charging the Note.
camaroz28 said:
There is no writing on it at all so I have no idea what it's output current is.
As an aside, I've heard of a lot of people just getting a small DC->AC converter and then using the original wall charge adapter to charge in the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can confirm that your phone will charge, albeit slowly, with the provided adapter that comes with the Nav mount?
I'm not a big fan out DC to AC car adapters.
lactardjosh said:
There are two very good posts about this very topic.
This one recommends a charger:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1538341
It also has a link in the OP to the other post about charging the Note.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only did a couple quick searches for "GPS Charging" before making this thread, and didn't find that one!
Thank you guys.
fellstar said:
You can confirm that your phone will charge, albeit slowly, with the provided adapter that comes with the Nav mount?
I'm not a big fan out DC to AC car adapters.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, after driving for 7 hours, my batter went from something like 52% to 60%. Don't remember the exact numbers, but it went up. This was while switching between google navigation and an app called "GPS HUD" with Pandora running in the background. Data was mostly HSPA/HSPA+ except for the beginning and end of the trip where I was in LTE cities.
camaroz28 said:
Yes, after driving for 7 hours, my batter went from something like 52% to 60%. Don't remember the exact numbers, but it went up. This was while switching between google navigation and an app called "GPS HUD" with Pandora running in the background. Data was mostly HSPA/HSPA+ except for the beginning and end of the trip where I was in LTE cities.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again Camaroz28.
Maintain a fully charged spare battery in auto
Tried about every auto charging fix I could find on this forum. Still get about 2% per hour discharge. I'm routinely in and out of my car 8-10 hours a day so end up with a dead battery. My fix (not elegant but works) is to maintain a fully charged spare battery in my van using a charger for extra batteries.
Of course could not do this with my iphone which is now relegated to my grandkids for games and music.
I love this forum. Great help to me.
yogidad said:
Tried about every auto charging fix I could find on this forum. Still get about 2% per hour discharge. I'm routinely in and out of my car 8-10 hours a day so end up with a dead battery. My fix (not elegant but works) is to maintain a fully charged spare battery in my van using a charger for extra batteries.
Of course could not do this with my iphone which is now relegated to my grandkids for games and music.
I love this forum. Great help to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same, I actually have 3 spare batteries and a spare battery charger. I don't want to have to fool with changing my battery in the car though. I've already ordered the charger from the other thread, should have it by Saturday to try that puppy out.
I'm an engineer, and I travel quite a bit.
The GPS software you use makes a huge difference. If you want the phone to charge, don't use Waze. During a test one day, Waze plugged in drained more battery than Navigon did while unplugged. Mine charges with Navigon and Pandora running simultaneously. I haven't tested Google Navigation yet, I'm going to do that today. The charger I use is a 2.1A Belkin AutoCharger made for iPhones. I'm using a USB extension cable with manually shorted data pins. I get 800-something mA out of it, unfortunately not the full 1000 the stock wall charger puts out. Running an inverter in the car with the stock charger I can get Waze to charge, but that's just not worth it for me. Too much gear in the just to charge a phone.
[Q&A] Teclast x98 air The still ongoing problems (and an ongoing hardware investiga
Q&A for Teclast x98 air The still ongoing problems (and an ongoing hardware investigation)
Some developers prefer that questions remain separate from their main development thread to help keep things organized. Placing your question within this thread will increase its chances of being answered by a member of the community or by the developer.
Before posting, please use the forum search and read through the discussion thread for Teclast x98 air The still ongoing problems (and an ongoing hardware investigation). If you can't find an answer, post it here, being sure to give as much information as possible (firmware version, steps to reproduce, logcat if available) so that you can get help.
Thanks for understanding and for helping to keep XDA neat and tidy!
thanks, can't belive there is no solution
Sorry to bother you, but after a week looking for a solution to the battery drain in windows I've just found +-10 people like me. It's a nice tablet but useless with this issue.
Please ¿Have you find a solution, how?
Thanks in advance!
motoi_bogdan said:
So... like most of you, i have at least one problem with my teclast x98 air tablet, version C9J8, running only windows (8.1 pro/10 preview).
At this time i've constantly encountered the following problems:
- not turning on after being shut down. Pressing the power button doesn't do nothing. Sometimes it does this while charging, at the end of the charge, othertimes it... simply won't power on.
- huge battery drain in stand by. I've flashed ALL (yes... all) dual boot/single boot air/air 2 BIOS files i could get, in all versions. If it's got a .bin extension... yes, i've flashed that too. No change AT ALL!
- huge batterty drain... when powered off !?!?! Yes, that's the next level of awsomeness. You know your tablet is special when it sometimes discharges faster when turned off compared with it turned on. (@XDA, guys .. can you please add some facepalm smiley/emoji.. i wanted to use it about 30 times since i got this tablet)
- sudden shutdowns. Like when you use your tablet it simply dies in your hands with no apparent reason.
- battery meter stuck at 7% and only 1 cell reported. NOT fixed by the methods already known (flashing BIOS and letting it discharge then recharge with tablet turned off).
So.. i'm pissed off. I've disassembled the damn thing in search for some answers. I'll by posting some photos with the guts of this thing (c9j8 version).
First of all, I wanted to check the power draw directly from the battery, so i've desoldered the positive wire from the battery and inserted an amps meter to check the current flow.
For example, the stock charger will supply around 1.5-1.9 amps to the battery when charging (tablet off). For comparison a small 5V 1A, samsung charger supplied 1.1 amps in the same setup. Some other interesting facts, when on and booted to windows - the tablet draws about 1.1-2.2 amps (mostly depending on screen brigtness and cpu load). That's a total of 4-11 watts. If you lower the brigtness from full to low (bottom third of the slider) you effectively half the power consumption. As usual the display consumes more then 50% of the total power being drawn. Those who complain about huge power drain on standby will be surprised to know that the tablet draws 0.3-0.8 amps (it fluctuates) in standby. That’s HUGE. It should be 0.03-0.05 amps at MAXIMUM. 0.3 amps multiplied to a 3.8volts cell is 1.14Watts draw per hour at minimum in my case.
Leaving that aside, let's return to the above problems. The battery is connected to the motherboard by using a 3 wire connection (positive, ground and data bus/i2c or similar). The motherboard itself doesn't feature ANY protection/power management chip aside from a single ROHM controller located under a metal shield. Even if some data is passed between the battery and motherboard, you can simply decouple the battery and power the tablet with regular 18650 lithium cells or 3 AA alkaline batteries in series. The tablet is stupid enough not to notice any difference.
Let's go more deep in the start-up sequence.
When you press the power button, a half a second 500mA ramping to 800mA load is registered. The power management chip measures the voltage drop under that load and if it deems it to be "acceptable" it passes power to the rest of the motherboard. BIOS/firmware takes over from there but does a measurement of its own. If it results in an "ok" the boot sequence can the follow. If not, the BIOS would then power off the tablet. Here lies the first problem. The power management chip and BIOS thresholds for a "low voltage" battery are different. Very different. The chip itself considers the battery voltage to be ok if it's above about 3.45-3.5 volts and not dropping lower then 3.3v under a 500-800mA load. The BIOS/firmware (or whatever software part does this) won't accept a measurement below 3.65v. volts. So, when you pass the BIOS stage and boot to windows, the data you get when checking your battery comes from the power management chip. If you fully discharge the battery in windows (down to 2-3% or similar) and you are able to shutdown the tablet by yourself (it doesn’t cut power by itself) you could find that it cannot power back again because even if the power management ic gives the go ahead, the bios/firmware side refuses to go any further. The battery must be charged for some time before the bios will allow for booting.
The problem is that both power management IC and BIOS readings should be taken in same way and be of similar value. They are not. It’s not that Teclast couldn’t do this, but for whatever reason they decided to write the BIOS in that way. The 7% problem could originate in the fact that a what the BIOS considers a dead battery (0%) is actually charged to a degree and is different from 0% measured at the power management chip level. Overall the power readings are inconsistent in both measurement and reporting. It doesn’t seem to be a hardware problem.
Another problem is how „dumb” is the battery management hardware. In any modern portable computer (laptops, tablets, even phones – excluding some chinese products) you cannot simply disconect the data bus from the battery and simply feed some random 3-4 volts to power the thing. It’s like you would remove the battery from your laptop, check the label on it for the voltage rating and stick a bunch of wires on the contacts (2 of them) and expect the thing to boot. It won’t. Firstly because IT’S NOT SAFE. The battery or motherboard can’t report one to another if a fault is occuring and can’t accurately measure voltage/current consumption.
Yet another problem is that the same power circuitry does not compensate for large voltage/current swings. A simple experiment for you folks to try. Get a aa battery (a battery in general) measure it’s voltage as it’s sitting still then connect a small lightbulb/motor/led/whatever load runs on that battery and measure the voltage WHILE the battery suplies current to the load. You will find a voltage drop at the battery level. It’s normal, is how these things run. A complex electronic device must take that into account in it’s design. At idle/browsing web/viewing picture, the tablet draws about 1.1 amps from a battery that’s registering 3.87volts (at that test’s time in my case). Running a benchmark/video game produced a series of spikes to 2 – 2.1 amps and an aditional voltage drop to around 3.61 volts. Remember that some power rails require exact voltages (cpu core, main bus, 5volt usb bus etc). The power circuitry must provide those exact voltages regarding the input voltage swing. Noup... and that’s the main problem untill now. THEY DONT! I was shocked to see how the chinese engineers are pushing it right on the edge. If you desolder one battery pin and insert an ampere meter in series, that’s enough to induce the little voltage drop needed for the tablet to freeze under load or shut down alltogether. The ampere meter leads were rated to withstand 10 amps under load – and they do, yet the simple fact you inserted a piece of wire along the track is enough to disturb an already delicate balance. The thing is only barely capable of whitstanding it’s own battery voltage swing. In my opinion you can try to reduce the load by disabling turbo modes on cpu/gpu or whatever (and teclast tried with some bios/models of the x98 air) but you cannot fix this by firmware. It’s just bad hardware design. They cut costs on the power management side.
Those are my finds untill now. I’m thinking of adding some capacitance over the power rails to take the load over from the batteries when a large amount of current is drawn (spikes that occur under load). Other then that, there is not much to do about this.
Even so, i don’t know why the tablet still draws power while turned off. I wasn’t able to make it do that while measuring. Aditionally i don’t know why only one cell is reported in windows. More tests are required.
This is still an ongoing "project". Some of my conclusion could be wrong at this stage. Like i've said it's still a work in progress. It would be quite a thing if anyone with some knoledge about the BIOS code (or how it runs on this tablet) could step in and direct me to the right hardware to examine.
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Anom7832 said:
Sorry to bother you, but after a week looking for a solution to the battery drain in windows I've just found +-10 people like me. It's a nice tablet but useless with this issue.
Please ¿Have you find a solution, how?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't think a simple bios flash will fix that in our cases. Could be that some tablets have defective power management ic's. in fact all bios versions tried by me lead to a similar voltage drop across the battery in stand by. I'm now tracking where is all this power going to since something has to use it. At this time i can rule out the camera and the touchscreen controller since i've disconnected them from the mainboard with no noticeable effect. Since the power drop seem related to the cpu area i suspect the cpu itself not being able to go to a lower power state but i must access the core voltage pins to check this. Yet normally this should be corectable by a bios update but for whatever reason teclast isn't providing any.
Still...more testing is needed