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Hey guys. the top corner on the back o my tab gets extremely hot while the screen is on. like Very hot, on the back about an inch and 1/2 below the volume rocker. is this a known issue or should i take it back to bestbuy and get it exchanged?
Please use the Q&A Forum for questions Thanks
Moving to Q&A
Thats where the processor is. Are you overclocked? Mine gets warm, but I believe that's because I have it in a case and there is no room for heat dissipation. Heat will kill electronics, so make sure that it does not get too hot.
tghockey07 said:
Thats where the processor is. Are you overclocked? Mine gets warm, but I believe that's because I have it in a case and there is no room for heat dissipation. Heat will kill electronics, so make sure that it does not get too hot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am overclocked now. but it was doing that even before i rooted it
kendall316 said:
i am overclocked now. but it was doing that even before i rooted it
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Click to collapse
I would return it, it does not sound normal... I have my unit overclocked at 1.4ghz (on demand 216-1400) and been playing PSX (playstation emulation uses a lot of cpu power) games on it all day... It doesn't get "hot", I haven't even notice it even get slightly warm and I have mine in a case.
jzen said:
I would return it, it does not sound normal... I have my unit overclocked at 1.4ghz (on demand 216-1400) and been playing PSX (playstation emulation uses a lot of cpu power) games on it all day... It doesn't get "hot", I haven't even notice it even get slightly warm and I have mine in a case.
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Click to collapse
ok, next question. how do i unroot so they dont give me a hard time?
Unfortunately this is just another consumer with his or her mind poisoned by companies who sell worthless cooling products for electronic devices.
It requires an education in electrical engineering to understand what is "hot". You cant simply feel the back of your device and guess that it is hot when you have no idea what the temperature even is and when you have no idea what temperature is hot for electronics.
Chips can run at 80c which is getting close to water boiling. If the back of your device does not burn your skin to a blister then NO, your device is not running hot or anywhere near warm.
Education is key to understanding our reality.
5thElement said:
Unfortunately this is just another consumer with his or her mind poisoned by companies who sell worthless cooling products for electronic devices.
It requires an education in electrical engineering to understand what is "hot". You cant simply feel the back of your device and guess that it is hot when you have no idea what the temperature even is and when you have no idea what temperature is hot for electronics.
Chips can run at 80c which is getting close to water boiling. If the back of your device does not burn your skin to a blister then NO, your device is not running hot or anywhere near warm.
Education is key to understanding our reality.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
doesnt burn my skin or blister, no. but it is hot enough to the point where i cant hold it in that spot because it feels like its going to. its like putting your hand on xbox that had just been run for 10 hours straight
As stated before, the tegra 2 does not produce anywhere near the power dissipation to overheat even when overclocked.
I have to ask again, what is the temperature of the back of the unit?
5thElement said:
As stated before, the tegra 2 does not produce anywhere near the power dissipation to overheat even when overclocked.
I have to ask again, what is the temperature of the back of the unit?
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Click to collapse
how would i know what the temp. is?
Does anyone here have any insight into how the prime is cooled? I am wondering if the backplate is being utilized at all to assist in cooling?
Is the soc facing the screen or the backplate?
As much as the backplate may interfere with wireless signals, it may be able to help in other places..
Also, while it may be minor, decreasing temperature at a particular clock speed and voltage will decrease power draw on full load. Maybe able to squeeze a few more minutes during gameplay.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
for wanting to know which way the Soc is facing. just look at the GPS teardown thread. I know I posted tons of pix in there that'll answer that. can't remember which way it was facing.
The tear downs have like a grounding ribbon going over the chip and it provides some of the cooling, or at least that's what the tear downs call it.
Has anyone taken the motherboard out yet? I am waiting on my thermal paste to implement a custom cooling solution but do not want to break the motherboard in the process.
Thanks.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
Why do u want a custom cooling solution? This thing ain't getting very hot lol..
Someone has been reading about the new iPad temp reports
I'd like to be able to dissipate heat better. The Prime generally stays pretty cool, but when running at strictly 1.6 GHz for about 5-7 minutes mine can get as high as 39-42 C. But it's not like I ever have a reason to actually run it at the maximum for any extended amount of time
*EDIT:
Well, something must have been off when I did my OG test, because doing the same thing I used to (set SetCPU to 1600/1600, ran AnTuTu Tester battery test) I'm 10 degrees cooler than I was. Something that allowed the use for all 4 cores must have been running in the background at the time without me noticing. As soon as I find a good way to monitor temp while doing other things I'll engage all 4 cores and see if that brings me back up to the same levels.
benefit14snake said:
Also, while it may be minor, decreasing temperature at a particular clock speed and voltage will decrease power draw on full load. Maybe able to squeeze a few more minutes during gameplay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heat is a by-product of current (resistance). Decreasing the temperature has no impact on power draw. There's no convection cooling, thus no fan to draw power in order to cool the internals.
I'm all about efficiency myself, so it's cool you want to do this, but just make sure you're going to end up with the results you want.
namebrandon said:
Heat is a by-product of current (resistance). Decreasing the temperature has no impact on power draw. There's no convection cooling, thus no fan to draw power in order to cool the internals.
I'm all about efficiency myself, so it's cool you want to do this, but just make sure you're going to end up with the results you want.
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Click to collapse
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_runaway
Maybe I am misunderstanding?
Look, I have a cpu that requires say 1.4v at 60c to perform at 3.6 ghz.
I then put that same cpu under water cooling. It can now run at 1.35v at 40c to perform 3.6ghz.
1.4v x (???)amps = (???)watts
1.35v x (???)amps = (???)watts
As temperature increases it becomes inherently harder for electrons to flow therefore requiring additional voltage. Additional voltage alone increases power. Now as the temp goes up more current is required to perform the same task which means even MORE power. Temperature means exponential power draw.
I'm not arguing this is just what I have learned by surfing pcper for the last 6 years or so, if I am wrong please let me know why so I can feed my hunger for hardware knowledge =)
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
Lock-N-Load said:
Someone has been reading about the new iPad temp reports
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like I said, I would love to lower temps so i can run over 1.7ghz. My prime runs decently hot at this frequency.
Also, I will not be stopping with cpu, I need moar gpu power too! Rawr!
Edit: I suppose I didn't say I wanted to run higher but yeah, I want to overclock this b?!# until it melts. Tegra 3 on phase change anyone? Lol.
Also it seems like its going to be crazy easy to help with the temps once I get the motherboard off.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
buxtahuda said:
I'd like to be able to dissipate heat better. The Prime generally stays pretty cool, but when running at strictly 1.6 GHz for about 5-7 minutes mine can get as high as 39-42 C. But it's not like I ever have a reason to actually run it at the maximum for any extended amount of time
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you use to monitor temp my friend?
Edit: it seems like if I can get my penny mod to the correct height it will have direct contact with the backplate!!!!! Probably a 2-10 fold increase in both dissipation and heat load. Exciting stuff!
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
benefit14snake said:
What do you use to monitor temp my friend?
Edit: it seems like if I can get my penny mod to the correct height it will have direct contact with the backplate!!!!! Probably a 2-10 fold increase in both dissipation and heat load. Exciting stuff!
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just the SetCPU widget on the homescreen, and AnTuTu Tester shows you the temperature when you test the battery. Right now Tester only uses two cores though.
I would love to see the prime pushed to 2ghz.......wow
im all for pushing a machine till it melts...lol lets do it. i would def impliment a/your cooling method if it gets going.
buxtahuda said:
Just the SetCPU widget on the homescreen, and AnTuTu Tester shows you the temperature when you test the battery. Right now Tester only uses two cores though.
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Click to collapse
Two cores on one die? IE core 0 and 1?
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
benefit14snake said:
Two cores on one die? IE core 0 and 1?
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, only cores 0 and 1 (of course I don't know about the Ninja core, no app will ever be able to see it) get fired off using the AnTuTu Tester app.
Soon as I find a taskbar "widget" to display temp (or optic76 updates TabletCPUMonitor to display it) then I'll go about stressing all 4 cores at once. Now that I think about it, SetCPU has some configurable stress tests huh? *hops off to have a look*
*EDIT:
Actually, no, no it does not
>Does anyone here have any insight into how the prime is cooled? I am wondering if the backplate is being utilized at all to assist in cooling?
Metal-clad units like the iPad and Prime have slightly better cooling, simply because the aluminum transfers heat better than plastic. But the shell isn't directly used as a heatsink per teardowns.
That would actually be a bad idea, as while internal temp may be lowered, surface temp would drastically increase. Given that the surface is in direct contact with your hands/skin, it can cause great discomfort and possibly burns. Ever touched a heatsink?
There is no good cooling solution for tablets/handhelds because of the lack of space.
I'd like to see some screened grilles/grates and tiny little dyson fans or something lol
e.mote said:
>Does anyone here have any insight into how the prime is cooled? I am wondering if the backplate is being utilized at all to assist in cooling?
Metal-clad units like the iPad and Prime have slightly better cooling, simply because the aluminum transfers heat better than plastic. But the shell isn't directly used as a heatsink per teardowns.
That would actually be a bad idea, as while internal temp may be lowered, surface temp would drastically increase. Given that the surface is in direct contact with your hands/skin, it can cause great discomfort and possibly burns. Ever touched a heatsink?
There is no good cooling solution for tablets/handhelds because of the lack of space.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I have touched a heatsink. In fact I've touched, cut, modded, complained about, and raved about heatsinks. I'm all about the thermals. What your saying makes perfect sense and all but I've already considered all of the above. When I unlocked my prime I had one goal in mind. Overclock it until it melts! Why? This is how I have fun with my toys, I enjoy it!
Now the facts: yes it will be hotter, but it will dissipate quicker due to better/ more efficient thermal transfer. So that means it will cool down quicker, while also taking strain off other internal components such as power regulators due to a much lower ambient temperature. In turn this will allow for cleaner power delivery and hopefully higher cpu and gpu clocks.
Plus....all the cool kids are getting burned by their tablets. See: new ipad.
Sent from my Droid Razr using Tapatalk
I keep hearing about this CPU binning done on qualcomm chips and that higher numbers mean you have a more stable chip and is built a little better?
Can anybody shed some light on this? I know that rating chips isn't anything new. Most OEMs do this because not every one of them is cut the same or hits the same tolerances during manufacturing, but can somebody confirm the "higher number" bins are the "better" ones?
Thanks.
Oh and nice to meet all of you, totally new here, and new to Android. I used to have an HTC Titan and JUST picked up my Note 3 not too long ago. A good friend of mine go me interested in Android and showed me this site :good::good::good:
More or less a higher binned chip requires less juice to run than a lower binned chip... Now not all chips are the same and although a 3 should be more stable than a 2 at lower voltage you would basically have to test your device yourself to see what kind of results you get with voltage per your bin. Here's a question for you, why wouldn't you just wait a couple weeks and grab the note4?
jdidtht said:
More or less a higher binned chip requires less juice to run than a lower binned chip... Now not all chips are the same and although a 3 should be more stable than a 2 at lower voltage you would basically have to test your device yourself to see what kind of results you get with voltage per your bin. Here's a question for you, why wouldn't you just wait a couple weeks and grab the note4?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok great yeah that makes perfect sense. Just wanted to see how my neighbors here in San Jose (Qualcomm) are running their quality control.
The reason I didn't wait was because I snagged this device for a great deal and from what I have been reading the Note 3 has some monster hardware already. I am a hardware junkie, sure, but it seems like 800 bucks for mobile device packing a THIRTY TWO bit platform.... eh... not for me.
I'm not locked into a contract right now. So, if the Note 4 absolutely wows me, I'll sell this one (which was purchased privately) and pick one up.
So is this aero cooling fan really works? Or just another gimmick? Anyone can confirm that the temp is much better with the fan Acc on? Thanks
theoryzz said:
So is this aero cooling fan really works? Or just another gimmick? Anyone can confirm that the temp is much better with the fan Acc on? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have the phone yet, but all the reviews have said it does make a difference in long term performance. I think it's supposed to keep things about 5°C cooler and reduces/eliminates thermal throttling. Doesn't sound gimmicky to me.
In the reviews that I have seen, that showed the backside of the cooling fan, it doesn't look like there is actually any ports that directly interface with the unit itself. But rather, from what I have read, it keeps your hands cooler and not as sweaty. So, maybe that is where the 5 degree difference comes in. If your hands are cooler and not transferring heat to the unit, then that would make sense why it would help keep it cooler by 5 degrees.
ZeroKool76 said:
In the reviews that I have seen, that showed the backside of the cooling fan, it doesn't look like there is actually any ports that directly interface with the unit itself. But rather, from what I have read, it keeps your hands cooler and not as sweaty. So, maybe that is where the 5 degree difference comes in. If your hands are cooler and not transferring heat to the unit, then that would make sense why it would help keep it cooler by 5 degrees.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it's the surface temp that goes down 5°C, not internal. I haven't seen any tests on internal temps, but several reviews have shown a definite increase in the amount of time before thermal throttling kicked in, and not at all in some cases.
ZeroKool76 said:
In the reviews that I have seen, that showed the backside of the cooling fan, it doesn't look like there is actually any ports that directly interface with the unit itself. But rather, from what I have read, it keeps your hands cooler and not as sweaty. So, maybe that is where the 5 degree difference comes in. If your hands are cooler and not transferring heat to the unit, then that would make sense why it would help keep it cooler by 5 degrees.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mr_Mooncatt said:
Yeah, it's the surface temp that goes down 5°C, not internal. I haven't seen any tests on internal temps, but several reviews have shown a definite increase in the amount of time before thermal throttling kicked in, and not at all in some cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read somewhere the tested temp drop with the cooling fan was something like 5C to 10C on the back of the phone and 2C to 4C internal temp drop.
Allright thanks a lot guys. Maybe I'll be getting the Acc after all.
This Active cooling fan doesn't drain much battery, it's like you don't have it at all.
It's surprisingly lightweight, it doesn't make the phone heavier at all.
It comes with adhesive hard-rubber cushions you can put under it, to make the phone stand alone, just like having a pair of shoes on its feet.
The writing "Republic of gamers" on is is also RGB-backlighted, and it's really bright!
The cooling stand extends itself for half centimeter, so you can attach it easily on the phone.
And it does the job! Also, keeping your fingers refreshed, neither too much nor too little, so they won't sweat.
Above all, keeps the phone cooled enough. A must have accessory, for Asus ROG Phone 2!
I love the aero cooler, it works and cools your fingers at the same time.
cypherflowgamingnation said:
I love the aero cooler, it works and cools your fingers at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea my favorite thing is that it keeps your sweaty hands cool
Sent from my ASUS_I001DC using Tapatalk
Hello Android Radio friends,
I have thought a lot about how to solve the problem of overheating Android devices with PX5 and PX6 processors. Next summer will come for sure.
My specially designed passive heat sinks are probably known by some people.
This time, I'm going to focus on active cooling + heatsink.
It was important that as many people as possible can use this method. It should be as easy as possible to install, even by people who have no manual skills.
Therefore I created 3D models of different top covers which you can easily print out if you have a 3D printer.
In this lid there are already the drillings for mounting a fan. I make the whole project available for the community on Thingiverse. I also add number 1 - 22 to each 3D model. If someone doesn't find the 3D model for his own top cover. Tell me the dimensions. I will create the 3d model. Let's make a collection of compatible devices.
Because high temperatures can occur in a car in summer, I used ABS as material. This can withstand temperatures up to 100°C.
Of course you could also drill a big hole in the top cover. But it does not look so nice. ?
If someone doesn't have a 3D printer. There are many different websites that offer 3D printing at low prices.
In the video I also show some used fans and some methods of power supply.
German video on YouTube
https://youtu.be/U36MYCj7FfY
English video on Youtube
https://youtu.be/U36MYCj7FfY
The whole project on Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4240690
What do you think of this project?
Alex
Update 10.07.2020
Meanwhile there are 22 different 3D models.
Nice ideas.
Had some thoughts about that first minute I unpacked radio upgrade for my car, PX6 unit. It has some perforations on the back but it is all closed underneath with plastic so I think almost no air circulation happens there. Yeah it is 2DIN with aluminium heatsink on the back, and yes in my car ventilation is right above it but - I don't like it. Maybe some holes could help.
I'm writing this because of an experience with completely different thing, had annoying fan noise on an instrument amplifier, which was at 100% all the time. No matter how it was used or maybe unused at the time, noise was unbearable. Manual control is too dangerous because I know sooner or later I would forget to turn it up when needed, but it can be automatic so quick and nice fix was temperature control board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886053224.html . I think it could work nice for projects like yours :good:
Is the fan mod really useful?
Does anyone else use a fan in his HU?
iMattmax said:
Is the fan mod really useful?
Does anyone else use a fan in his HU?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
simply useless. If you switch stock thermal pad with a better quality one and install a good heatsink all is done. I did it one year ago and nothing more is necessary.
Consider that PX5 is a 5W SoC so a passive cooling is more than sufficient to remove heat
giouncino said:
simply useless. If you switch stock thermal pad with a better quality one and install a good heatsink all is done. I did it one year ago and nothing more is necessary.
Consider that PX5 is a 5W SoC so a passive cooling is more than sufficient to remove heat
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely not useless. Did you see the temperatures in combination with a heatsink?
A fan in the top cover cooling down the whole device.
Ati_gangster said:
Definitely not useless. Did you see the temperatures in combination with a heatsink?
A fan in the top cover cooling down the whole device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I performed a torture test and SoC temperature during this test was between 70-80°C (never reached during normal use). So as I stated before: a 5W SoC can easily be cooled passively. If you want to increase noise, failure probability of the fan and dust inside the radio, you can but it's not necessary at all. I have experience in cooling CPUs (also with massive overclock) for decades, this is not my first experience.
Moreover my radio is working passively since last year and I've nevere experienced stuttering or problems due to heat.
Other parts of the radio are not hot at all.
Awesome job Alex, and great video. Comprehensive tests too. Thanks so much for your hard work
giouncino said:
Yes, I performed a torture test and SoC temperature during this test was between 70-80°C (never reached during normal use). So as I stated before: a 5W SoC can easily be cooled passively. If you want to increase noise, failure probability of the fan and dust inside the radio, you can but it's not necessary at all. I have experience in cooling CPUs (also with massive overclock) for decades, this is not my first experience.
Moreover my radio is working passively since last year and I've nevere experienced stuttering or problems due to heat.
Other parts of the radio are not hot at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
70 to 80°C under which conditions?
What outside temperature?
Device 1Din or 2Din?
Cover open or closed?
Air conditioning on?
The advantage of active cooling is that not only the CPU is cooled, but also all other components such as voltage regulators, capacitors, amplifier chip and other microchips.
And if the 5€ fan should break after years, it's still better than if a 300€+ device breaks down.
Ati_gangster said:
70 to 80°C under which conditions?
What outside temperature?
Device 1Din or 2Din?
Cover open or closed?
Air conditioning on?
The advantage of active cooling is that not only the CPU is cooled, but also all other components such as voltage regulators, capacitors, amplifier chip and other microchips.
And if the 5€ fan should break after years, it's still better than if a 300€+ device breaks down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tested a lot with and without heat sink and fan, same as you did.
By the way... Thanks a lot for providing the 3-D-images to print the top cover. :highfive:
I printed the top cover for my head units to be used with a 80mm "be quiet" fan, which is really not audible if the unit is mounted in the dash board. Even on bench test the fan is really quiet.
The CPU temperature of all my 2-DIN units got down from (in Throttling Test) ~95°C down to max 48°C. Throttling was a real an issue. Up to 55% throttling without cooling down.
With normal usage (navigation with active route guidance, some Tasker tasks in background working, audio decoding active) the CPU is cooled down from nearly 80°C to ~30°C at ~25°C outside temperature, which is much more comfortable for all the parts in the unit and resolved the throttling issues to less than 5-10%, dependent of the unit.
Tested on:
PX5 (RK3368)
CSN2 (RK3368) ...which was delivered with a complete closed top cover. I got temperatures without any running apps of something about 85°C, because no ventilation was possible.
RL7A (RK3399)
SC9853i
Guys I’m in search for heatsink that fits my 1din PX6 unit. Do you have the measurements for the module size I need to cover with the heatsink?
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I added this to mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RYK3J41/ref=dp_prsubs_1
the temps on my px5 swap were 90c which is way too hot for my liking, with this it never went above 60c and you cant hear any noise.
Hi, great job. Congratulations. Anyway, where to buy Alex's android fan kit from?
Geox70 said:
Hi, great job. Congratulations. Anyway, where to buy Alex's android fan kit from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Directly from him. Search for his channel on YouTube, there is somewhere his WhatsApp number written. Just contact him over there and ask for fan kit.
Don't know if this is the right location to post this but I just purchased a Vanku px6 4/64 and had every intention of at least putting a heat sink on it and I was pleasantly surprised to find this.. and it was even secured with screws. Win win View attachment 5114453
Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
View attachment 5114487
Sorry don't know why the picture isn't showing. It is a pretty robust heat sink.
Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
My solution is a low-noise 12v fan stuck on top of the heatsink with strong double-sided mounting tape. Works like a charm.
Attached is the picture I was trying to show earlier. This is the stock heatsink in the Vanku
Edit:
Sorry, I give up. I can't get the pic to show.
I simply put an old intel mobo southbridge chip heatsink on a px6, some of them are very large
It has very long fins (over 1 1/4 ") by chance i could mod it to put longer screws to hold the px6 in place with the added heat sink
Fully passive, never had any problems
I simply run my PX6 with no lid. Makes zero difference to induce RF noise etc and my temps are cut in half for free.
Kudos to Alex (Ati_gangster)!
Simply sent the width of the original cover and the position of the two side holes and the size of the favorite fan (not included in the scope of delivery) via WhatsApp and two days later I had my cover in the mailbox. The fit is great and my fan fits perfectly into the existing holes.
My fan:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08WHMP2CD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6X7857YXKXYD8QC9SYDB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
(trial assembly, still without fan)