Hello i have a eonon car stereo running android 444 fuse rom i can only pick up 3 stations and they sometimes loose reception ive tried an amplifier and new eariel but with no luck any suggestions would be great.
I'd double check your harness connector to the oem antenna. Their was a pin loose on mine and once I bent the retention tabs back out and reinstalled the connection was much stronger.
Geekybiker said:
I'd double check your harness connector to the oem antenna. Their was a pin loose on mine and once I bent the retention tabs back out and reinstalled the connection was much stronger.
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Its a Renault Megane and is just a standard connector.
Im now beginning to think its the components on the motherboard as the closer i get to the sauce eg: im from Wigan were Wish FM is broadcast if i drive past the studio its crystal clear same with Key 103 in Manchester. I think the radio chip on these is crap.
I think you need a power injector, because the antenna is active and needs power to work correctly. Just put the power injector between the radio and the antenna and connect the blue cable with the AMP or ANT cable of the radio harness...
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I've had the same issue and solved it fortunately.
My Unit is a Joying RK3188 and came with a defect dual input power injector.
Easy steps to identify: At the output of these injectors (called 'phantomspeisung' in german) you sould measue 12V DC. These 12VDC sent over the 2pol antenna cable are for the antenna built in amplifier.
1st: I replaced the power injector with a diversity injector. Google for "Diversity Adapter 204.086-0) www.rta-online.com
2nd: Additionally to my amplified roof antenna I bought a second amplified antenna at amazon
http://www.amazon.de/Baseline-Conne...enne+AM,FM,+inkl.+Verstärker,+FAKRA-Stecker+F
Both together I've a really good reception now.
The diversity adapater really makes it's job. I is a littel high in price but worth at all.
Try putting some electrical tape around the Motorola male antenna plug at the head unit. What you are trying to accomplish is to insulate the area where the head unit housing may be in close contact with the plug. Takes a few seconds to try.
pounce said:
Try putting some electrical tape around the Motorola male antenna plug at the head unit. What you are trying to accomplish is to insulate the area where the head unit housing may be in close contact with the plug. Takes a few seconds to try.
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...that's excatly what provided the very worst reception ever to me... So I looked around (tried a lot and spend some bucks on some useless amplifiers) and finally found the solution from my previous post. It works.
markusmuster said:
...that's excatly what provided the very worst reception ever to me... So I looked around (tried a lot and spend some bucks on some useless amplifiers) and finally found the solution from my previous post. It works.
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If putting insulating tape just around the plug where it would touch the housing (and not where the actual plug needs to mate up) gave you worse reception... you did something wrong.
I was under the impression that these units had issues with the software ( or hardware) or this is what I am told.
See here or am I mistaken?
dazza007 said:
I was under the impression that these units had issues with the software ( or hardware) or this is what I am told.
See here or am I mistaken?
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Its possible you are mistaken. The OP in this thread didn't provide any hardware specific details. Instead we know only version of android.
My units have no problem with radio reception, but I can simulate a problem if the connector touching the housing and impacting reception.
Other issues are not connecting the power to a stock antenna from the head unit when you install it. Even if you don't have an antenna that goes up and down you can have an amplified antenna. If you don't power it you don't get good reception. it can be something that is missed with wiring up the harness.
Yes, you can also have hardware problems, but its easy to rule out the external issues first before calling the unit the problem.
pounce said:
Its possible you are mistaken. The OP in this thread didn't provide any hardware specific details. Instead we know only version of android.
My units have no problem with radio reception, but I can simulate a problem if the connector touching the housing and impacting reception.
Other issues are not connecting the power to a stock antenna from the head unit when you install it. Even if you don't have an antenna that goes up and down you can have an amplified antenna. If you don't power it you don't get good reception. it can be something that is missed with wiring up the harness.
Yes, you can also have hardware problems, but its easy to rule out the external issues first before calling the unit the problem.
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When you quote "my units have no problem," what software and hardware do you have in each, which motherboard, radio chip, etc etc
I part of me would like to believe that insulation is a problem here, but guys on the Russian forums have replaced capacitors to improve reception.
dazza007 said:
When you quote "my units have no problem," what software and hardware do you have in each, which motherboard, radio chip, etc etc
I part of me would like to believe that insulation is a problem here, but guys on the Russian forums have replaced capacitors to improve reception.
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I have Joying units. One of the 10.1" universal units with 3188 and a 7" universal unit with 3188. No idea about the specifics of the chips.
If you have a specific hardware unit that people are complaining about then you may have a problem with that unit from that manufacturer. That's realistic, but try the other tests first before performing surgery.
Problem is most likely a internal problem with the ground of the antenna input. This was the problem with my unit.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=55279871&postcount=3266
...
This is great. It really helps illustrate how people are interpret things differently.
You have put too much tape on the connector. You have essentially broken the connection by entirely covering the outer connector. It may not be been obvious to you that a motorola antenna connector needs contact on the pointy post and the outer shell.
What you wanted to do I carefully put just a little tape on the plug where is could touch the case of the unit in a circumstance where the alignment of the female connector inside the case attached to the PCB isn't perfectly centered for the case hole. When things are out of alignment there tends to be a connection between between case and the outer shell of the connector. When these things touch it can negatively impact reception.
Hehe... I made this photos this morning with an unused plug just to illustrate. I know that the connection is broken when insulated and also the it's impossible to work this way.
I also read several threads about that "put some tape on it" thing and heard dozens of interpretations.
A picture tells more than some thousand words.
To clarify that to all of us: Please be so kind and make some photos !
Thanks in advance!
markusmuster said:
Hehe... I made this photos this morning with an unused plug just to illustrate.
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Click to collapse
To illustrate how you did it?
I know that the connection is broken when insulated and also the it's impossible to work this way.
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Click to collapse
So did you do it correctly when you tried it on your unit or are you saying this now to show the mistake and now you understand you need just a little bit of tape like mentioned up thread?
pounce said:
To illustrate how you did it?
So did you do it correctly when you tried it on your unit or are you saying this now to show the mistake and now you understand you need just a little bit of tape like mentioned up thread?
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Click to collapse
You might have a grounding issue if you are having to do that. I believe another member noticed that the outer part of the antenna socket is internally grounded with a little bit of solder and some foil, he had noticed that the foil had become disconnected meaning the outer part of the socket was no longer properly grounded, insulating the plug like you have done would help in that situation, but it isn't the correct fix, regrounding the socket is.
jakejm79 said:
You might have a grounding issue if you are having to do that. I believe another member noticed that the outer part of the antenna socket is internally grounded with a little bit of solder and some foil, he had noticed that the foil had become disconnected meaning the outer part of the socket was no longer properly grounded, insulating the plug like you have done would help in that situation, but it isn't the correct fix, regrounding the socket is.
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Click to collapse
You may have read up thread.
1) Check the connections like power for the antenna if you have that
2) check the plug to see if its contacting the case. Tape as needed.
3) Open the case and validate the connection to the female socket on the PCB.
4) Check your MCU firmware
5) Try another unit
This whole tape thing has me so confused. The outer shell of the Motorola plug has to touch the casing for earthing doesn't it? Yet you are saying to tape up only the bits that are touching the casing.
Totally confused.
Can someone put up a picture of what is the right way to tape it please.
I would have done exactly the same as markusmuster has in the pics.
Thanks
Related
Hi,
Dunno if anyone is interested but I now have DAB Radio plus ANY selection of music that i choose BLASTING out of my home stereo.
Finally got round to cutting off the ear buds from the supplied headset and replacing them with Phono plugs. Now I can plug Lobby into anything.
I, incidentally, was lucky enough to get a really worn set of headphones with my lobby and complained to Virgin & got a spare set.
It's a 5 pole plug so I presume one of them is the DAB aerial, when you stripped cable was their 5 wires?
Does your cable now work fine as a aerial (I presume so)? If so how did you break that out?
Do you live in a area that has a good DAB signal.
Any pics of cable?
Cheers - sorry for all the questions!
Hi.
I simply nipped the two ear buds off leaving all the connections in place on the plug so the arial didn't get disturbed.
when you carefully strip the cable you need to separate the sets of wires. they are NOT plastic sleeved, but they separate quite easily. Then set fire to the ends of them and let them burn back for 40mm or so. this will expose the copper ready for soldering. Note the common colour goes to the earth and the other colour goes to the centre of phono plug.
I have no idea which is left or right but someone on here will know I'm sure.
(I just guessed)
My area isnt good for Dab anything.
gave up on the TV bit ages ago.
If you look at the back of phone there is a removable plug for an external antenna which leaves the front socket for phono lead.
gameon said:
If you look at the back of phone there is a removable plug for an external antenna which leaves the front socket for phono lead.
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As far as I know this is the GSM antenna socket, not the DAB radio antenna.
Typical, I will stop looking for a connector then!
Does anyone know if the T-mobile version of the Touch Pro 2 has an external antenna port?
I travel through Texas and Use T-mobile (The coverage is imperfect but can be improved with an external aerial antenna)
In the past I used the Tmob Wing which had a rubber pop off cover on the back that allowed access to the antenna port.
I really miss using my external antenna. I've searched Google and XDA with no luck. Called Tmob PDA support no help there.
Any help on locating this elusive port would be appreciated.
Thanks,
m
14 threads down the list...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=535998
Someone wanna lock this thread?
RogerStenning said:
14 threads down the list...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=535998
Someone wanna lock this thread?
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Click to collapse
err that threads about gps antenna ports, hes on about gsm
For more clarification not GPS but GPRS/GSM
I have this antenna from Wilson Electronics.
http://www.wilsonelectronics.com////ViewProductB.php?ID=21
This for 806-866 MHz / 896-939 MHz / 1850-1990 MHz.
These antennas drastically improve all cell use and improve battery life in the process because the phone does not have to work as hard to acquire or boost a weak signal.
I also believe this makes mobile phone use safer with regard to radiation.
Anyone remember the old days of Cellular? Everyone had a cell antenna on their car. This antenna is similar to those.
I hope someone can help me find out if the TP2 has an antenna port like my T-mobile Wing had.
Thanks,
M
Fil - minoch may be looking at GSM/GPRS external antenna connectors on the TP2, but the themes are connected. There are no - zero - external antenna connectors on the TP2, whether you're looking for GPS, or cellular antenna connectors. It's the single failing on the TP2 that I can identify, regrettably.
Depending on your country, re-radiator antennas for GPS and/or cellular signals are available to mount in your car, but you must look carefully to see if such devices are legal to use in your country.
minoch - I would add that the antenna linked above by you is all well and good, but without an antenna connector (socket) needed on the back of the phone, it's about as useful as a roof rack on a helicopter.
Thus, a re-radiating device of some kind is required.
This article should help you understand the tech behind the solution to the problem: http://www.tech-faq.com/cell-phone-signal-booster.shtml
Thanks for the information Roger.
I suspected this was the case but hoped I was wrong. I guess I'll have to find some sort of induction connection (Those antenna decals that have a wire to hook to an external antenna) It won't be anywhere near as good as a direct connection but hopefully it can help a little.
A shame such a nice expensive phone as the Touch Pro 2 would not have any antenna ports. I guess HTC had to cut cost too..........Damn this Economy.
Thanks,
Minoch
Must admit, it surprised the smelly stuff outta me when I realised there wasn't an antenna connector on the phone. really silly ommission, given all the hooplah regarding hands-free usage while driving your car, and all that similar malarky.
Oh well, guess they throught that the internal antenna was good enough, or, as you suggest, they had to trim down the expense by dropping an external antenna connector and associated printed curcuitry, housings and case adjustments for a grand total of maybe 3.50 GBP per unit before packaging (with adjustments for economies of scale, etc)?
*shrug*
Hello, my atrix 4g has a problem currently with the audio jack. I find that when I plug my headphone in the audio jack, only the left side is working. It needs a little tap on the jack to the right side to make both work.
It can play okay when I'm not moving, but if I'm moving, it again moves and it goes left ear only. Is there any way to fix this?
EDIT: I think this belongs to the Q/A subforum, could mods please move it? Sorry for inconveniences.
Okay, I think I fixed it, the metal connectors within the audio socket were not making proper contact. I used stapler pins (http://i.imgur.com/uX1FF4s.jpg), straightened on end completely leaving the other end slightly crooked, (like a hook) then tried to pull the connectors up a little bit.
The staple pins provided damage control as they themselves got straighten out if I pull too hard, hence preventing damage to the connectors. I used several stapler pins to get the job done, now works perfectly.
I used two stapler pins, still stuck together for more rigidity and better grip for myself.
Leaving this here incase another user has a similar problem to mine!
I installed my headunit recently and noticed the crappy internal mic issues that is so common with our devices. My external mic wasn't going to be long enough to reach the stereo, so I installed a short extension cable.
What I found was:
Bad - Internal Mic, no external mic connected
Bad - External mic connected
GOOD! - Internal Mic with just the external mic extension connected
What a great relief! In my car, I have the GPS antenna sitting on top of the headunit (was too lazy to run the cable and mount "properly") and it works great. Now I also am using the internal Mic with excellent sound quality with just a small extension installed and nothing connected. I was not expecting such an easy time.
I still have the problem with bad A2DP sound quality. I haven't investigated this yet. I also have a weird problem where turning the volume know to the left will sometimes start making the sound louder. Luckily it fixes itself after a reboot and I can also volume down with the steering wheel controls.
Interesting, thanks for the heads up. I wonder why this is?
ahfunaki said:
Interesting, thanks for the heads up. I wonder why this is?
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What is 'external mic extension'? Please provide some pics. Very interesting find.
pa.ko said:
What is 'external mic extension'? Please provide some pics. Very interesting find.
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It sounds to me like it is just a 3.5mm extension cord. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-...458368888&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+extension+mic
Yes, correct. It is just a simple 3.5mm extension cord. I have no idea why it helps, but my system is good enough with it that I see no reason to do the mic hardware hack.
This is what I did except i disassembled, unsoldered the old mic from the PCB and soldered in an extension w/ an 1/8 stereo female bulkhead connection at the back of the unit so i can plug in any mic I want to. Tested w/ my wife and she said it was crystal clear. Prior to that quality was HORRIBLE, not even usable actually.
Dave
Hi, I'd like to try this to see if it will help my unit. does the length of the extension matter? what was the length you used?
Thanks for the help
Have you use a mono or a stereo mic extension?
MFG
Wolverine_DH
TT_Vert said:
This is what I did except i disassembled, unsoldered the old mic from the PCB and soldered in an extension w/ an 1/8 stereo female bulkhead connection at the back of the unit so i can plug in any mic I want to. Tested w/ my wife and she said it was crystal clear. Prior to that quality was HORRIBLE, not even usable actually.
Dave
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Did this too. 100% difference! Wow, that is like, the exact wording I was going to use too...down to the "crystal clear" hahaha!
natalic said:
Did this too. 100% difference! Wow, that is like, the exact wording I was going to use too...down to the "crystal clear" hahaha!
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Guys, I wanted to test the "trick" with the extension but you write now what I did not understood.
Which mic did you unsolder ?
The connector for the external mic or which one ?
Thanks
unsolder the mic that is internal at the front of the unit. With that though I'd try that extension and see if it helps you. If it does you don't need to unsolder but I really don't see how that could possibly help.
Dave
TT_Vert said:
unsolder the mic that is internal at the front of the unit. With that though I'd try that extension and see if it helps you. If it does you don't need to unsolder but I really don't see how that could possibly help.
Dave
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I was so convinced that this was a complete waste of time, I mean really, It makes no sense that an extension cable works, no sense at all.
*BUT*
Shockingly this did make a difference. Not a huge difference, but enough to make the unit usable. I'd say the quality was improved from 0/10, to 4/10. Its still quite annoying for those people unlucky enough to talk to me when I'm in my car, but at least they can actually make out what I'm saying now. I'd love to understand how this could possibly make any difference...
I used a 6ft stereo extension (its what I had lying around). I am now wondering if the position of this cable (wrapped up, or looped or something makes any difference - it must be acting in some way to bleed off excess electrical interference or something.... or something...
Anyways, just thought I'd share my experience.
Interesting, can't argue with results i suppose. I would still unsolder front mic, i bet you'll be impressed w/ the result.
Dave
Hi there,
I tested it with my RK3188 headunit (a Joying JY-UQ130) and I does'nt work. This only seems to disconnect internal mic. Maybe this unit has a hardware fix.
Lwysiwyg said:
Hi there,
I tested it with my RK3188 headunit (a Joying JY-UQ130) and I does'nt work. This only seems to disconnect internal mic. Maybe this unit has a hardware fix.
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Seems that it was a software issue. This morning, internal mic is OK ! I will tell you if something goes wrong again with this fix. Thanks !
Hi I would like to try this simple fix but was curious as to what type of 3.5mm extension was needed? 2 pin 3 or 4 pin, shielded etc thanks
Would be cool if everybody could list the specs of the extension he uses!?
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This would add capacitance to the microphone circuit. To some degree, it may act as a high pass filter.
is this like a very primitive way to accomplish what a ground loop isolator does?
dieterlumpen said:
Would be cool if everybody could list the specs of the extension he uses!
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Click to collapse
I tried the solution on my Head Unit (RK3188 KGL) and it worked !! The voice quality is improved from 0/10 to 7/10.
Here is what I purchased:
- 3.5mm jack Stereo extension cable (Male-Female) - the cheapest one ($1), without any shield.
- External Mono microphone, with 3 meters of cable - the cheapest one ($1)
Here is what I did:
1. I unsoldered the internal microphone at the front of the head unit. The mic had two wires, which were soldered to Positive and Ground.
2. I cut the 3.5mm Jack Stereo extension cable, to keep the Female-end and ~30cm of cable - enough to place the socket at the back of the head unit. The cable had 3 wires: white, red and yellow:
- the white wire corresponds to the TIP of a jack connector
- the red wire corresponds to the RING of a jack connector
- the yellow wire corresponds to the SLEEVE of a jack connector
3. I soldered the extension cable where the internal microphone was soldered:
- yellow wire (SLEEVE) to Ground.
- white wire (TIP) to Positive.
4. I connected the external microphone to the Jack extension I just soldered.
Et voila!
Hello, I'm having some connection issues with the Headphone jack on my Redmi note 4 Global Version (snap), I had the phone for over a year but from 2 weeks ago the phone couldn't recognize the headphone if it's completely in the jack, but it does recognize it nearly at the bottom with some issues (such as missing a channel), but there's a gold spot like 1mm above the bottom where the sound works as normal, but it's not reliable because any movement would take the plug out of that gold spot.
I figured a replacement should work fine and at first I tried to solve this locally, I went into like 5 tech support stores but none of them had a replacement jack, however one of them said that this issue could instead be the logic board, they asked me to let my phone overnight to see if its the board or the piece, and then tell me if the repair is possible. Because everything pointed towards a issue with the piece, as the phone did had a point where it could recognize the headphone connected, I said fine and let it, the next morning they bailed out and said they couldn't fix it because it was an issue with the board, them they spouted something about it being a common issue with a bunch of Xiaomi models having that exact same issue and telling there's no point in changing the jack as it would keep failing.
Honestly I don't believe it, the phone have a year without issues and to me the behaviour in the headphone tells a failure in keeping the connection at the end of the plug.
My idea right now is to buy a jack myself and either follow this tutorial or bring it to a store to change it for me, I'm not familiarized with smartphones and have no experience in soldering, so maybe bring it to a store is a better idea, however i still need to ask, is there a chance it could be the logic board or it definitely is the jack? I should buy that piece from Aliexpress or search another source? That tutorial seems legit enough?
Thanks in advance for any help.
I have two Redmi Note 4s with headphone jack issues.
The headphone jacks don't last as long as other phone manufacturers. Also there appears to be issues with the printed circuit on the motherboard from the headphone jack to the rest of the circuit.
Replacing the headphone jack and adding extra wire from the headphone jack connectors to the associated components should fix the problem. If it doesn't then meh, you've done all you can!
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