I am trying to control my joying head unit using my arduino. As far as I can find out, the head unit detects a voltage on the key1 wire so I just plugged that into a 5v digital out that I turned on for 200ms. It didn't work. Does anyone know how the Joying uses key1 and key2 to detect steering wheel controls?
I did find the picture below. I however still don't know how it works.
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invinciblegod said:
I am trying to control my joying head unit using my arduino. As far as I can find out, the head unit detects a voltage on the key1 wire so I just plugged that into a 5v digital out that I turned on for 200ms. It didn't work. Does anyone know how the Joying uses key1 and key2 to detect steering wheel controls?
I did find the picture below. I however still don't know how it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simple, connect a resistor of 1 kohm monumentally between key1 and key GND. Measure the voltage drop and go from there.
halloj said:
Simple, connect a resistor of 1 kohm monumentally between key1 and key GND. Measure the voltage drop and go from there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
key gnd? You mean just gnd? There is no key gnd. I will try doing the resistor from key 1 to ground though when I get back from work.
invinciblegod said:
key gnd? You mean just gnd? There is no key gnd. I will try doing the resistor from key 1 to ground though when I get back from work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally there's a key gnd in the loom, but gnd works as well.
halloj said:
Normally there's a key gnd in the loom, but gnd works as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually already attempted the bottom but without connecting key 2 to gnd (So i momentarily connected a resistor between key 1 and key 2). That did not work. I will try connecting key 1 to both gnd and the below later. Do you know how the head unit detects a signal? It is easier to design a circuit if I know what is going on.
invinciblegod said:
I actually already attempted the bottom but without connecting key 2 to gnd (So i momentarily connected a resistor between key 1 and key 2). That did not work. I will try connecting key 1 to both gnd and the below later. Do you know how the head unit detects a signal? It is easier to design a circuit if I know what is going on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The circuit in the steering wheel is a resistor ladder. Hence each button define a certain voltage drop. Just connect key1 and gnd monumentally.
I.e what's inside the head is probably an analog to digital converter.
halloj said:
The circuit in the steering wheel is a resistor ladder. Hence each button define a certain voltage drop. Just connect key1 and gnd monumentally.
I.e what's inside the head is probably an analog to digital converter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So something like this is going on? Also, does this mean key 2 is the same but a separate input so you can have more buttons?
invinciblegod said:
So something like this is going on? Also, does this mean key 2 is the same but a separate input so you can have more buttons?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've only used key1 and ground on four different KIA/Hyundai. So for key 2 I've no idea.
For the schematic, simplified yes. Because there are always pullup or pulldown resistors, because you can't leave the input floating.
invinciblegod said:
So something like this is going on? Also, does this mean key 2 is the same but a separate input so you can have more buttons?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is correct. Typically key1 would be left hand buttons and key2 right hand or something of the like
carter.w.jason said:
That is correct. Typically key1 would be left hand buttons and key2 right hand or something of the like
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not on KIA/Hyundai. Only key1 is used for both sides.
key2 is just if you have multiple circuits. My CRV has two for example. Navi units had additional buttons.
For reference:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...opment/steering-wheel-buttons-joying-t3266028
Hi guys i would ask your help. I have an Alfa Romeo Giulietta, Installed in the dash a nexus 7 2013 and I want use the steering wheel buttons. The car use the protocol is 15765-4 29bit and I have on Bluetooth obd reader. Can you please help me out? Thanks in advance.
Inviato dal mio FRD-L09 utilizzando Tapatalk
Hi- I have a 2015 Kia Optima, and I had a hell of a time installing my Android Head Unit in this car because of the Steering Wheel Controls (SWC). After watching many many YouTube videos, I finally learned that my Kia uses only two wires coming down the steering column and arriving at the factory stereo harness. I thought these wires were carrying digital CAN-BUS signals, but they are not. As you press different buttons in the left side group of steering wheel controls, and you have digital multimeter connected to these two wires, you will see various resistance values, depending on which button you are pressing. Have the multimeter set to the Ohm function. One button will give you 10000 Ohms of resistance, another will give you 5000, etc. I only needed to connect Ground and Key 1 to get all of my left buttons to operate the stereo. My stereo allows me to map each button to a function of the stereo. If you reverse the wires, it doesn't matter because the stereo is just looking for the different resistance values. All of my buttons in the right hand group are not related to any stereo functions- they are for cruise control, etc.
Since I had no luck with Search
Hello, I am having trouble with a Joying / Funrover Head unit for Ford Focus 2012 Titanium and SWC. My buttons are all mixed, when I press a button the app recognizes but the values are too low. But, keeo reading, it goes deeper.
On the SWC app, the resistance numbers are all around 30 by default, when I press a button it changes to 16, 20, too low values.
Compare it with the HU manual
About wiring we are taking the ground from the head unit itself, and tested with Key1 and Key2 separately. On the car side everything is fine. We placed a multimeter in the car wires directly to see what the car sends to the player and the multimeters reads resistances around 250, 500, 1000, 150. All high and different.
So we took an arduino with some resistor and simulated the Steering Wheel buttons and we were not able to make it read values over 30, only small values. We tested Key1 wire and Key2 Wire. My car had no canbox decoder. I even bought and SWC interface that amplifies the resistances and had no luck.
Seems that when I change car model in Settings Menu / Car Model / CanBox "RZX, VW... had some effect, but I cant find a way to get values like 256.
Take a look from HU manuals, look at the base level of 256, different from mine that is 30, even without the Key and Ground wires plugged.
So you smart folks over there, any thoughts? Folks here say that I somehow need to change the impedance of the HU.
Related
Well i think so anyway,
Here's the linkie http://www.dsldevelopments.com/brodit/Holder/O2+XDA%20Orbit%202-Brodit-Holder.asp
Scroll down to teh 3 in 1..... There ia a 40cm cable and a 3 cm cable version.
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The holder with 3-in-1 adapter is the choice for you who want to connect a headset to your device while charging it. You can also connect the device to your stereo AUX input in order to play MP3-files. 40 cm adapter cable. When you put the device in the holder, it is automatically connected to:
- Mini USB for charging
- 3,5 mm audion for sound out
- HTC Ext USB for original headset
The holder is designed with a tilt swivel, this means that you can adjust your device in order to avoid reflections in the display. The O2 XDA Orbit 2 holders have a perfect fit and holds the O2 XDA Orbit 2 firmly in place.
Attach the holder onto a ProClip Mounting Platform in your vehicle and you will have your O2 XDA Orbit 2 in easy reach -safe and convenient.
Nogs
Going to get me one of these I think
Looks good!
(Really expensive though!)
Looks good.
but tell me, what happens when you slot your TC into the cradle? My experience is that this type of set-up defaults the audio out to the USB/3.5mm socket and therefore doesn't let you play your sat-nav instructions through the TC speaker.
Fine if you want to play through the car's audio system, but not so good if you want to listen to the car radio and use your sat-nav at the same time.
Is there some way to force the audio through the speaker with this type of cradle?
reteb said:
Looks good.
but tell me, what happens when you slot your TC into the cradle? My experience is that this type of set-up defaults the audio out to the USB/3.5mm socket and therefore doesn't let you play your sat-nav instructions through the TC speaker.
Fine if you want to play through the car's audio system, but not so good if you want to listen to the car radio and use your sat-nav at the same time.
Is there some way to force the audio through the speaker with this type of cradle?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that is correct, I'm not sure of any reg haks to push the sound through the TC speaker when docked.... although i guess there will be as when docked the TC will play your ring tone through the speaker.
Nogs
It would be good to hear from someone who already has this. I think I'll get one but didn't get clear answers to all my questions when I asked the supplier. It sounds like:
When it's plugged in, if you do not use the headset or a BT headset, and answer the call using the handset whilst plugged in, you will get the sound through the speaker but there will be no mic so you won't be heard.
As for TomTom, if you want to listen to the radio, surely you'll be able to select the sound off menu item in TomTom.
Also, if you unplug your 3.5mm from the device, you could plug it into the headphone jack of an ipod and listen to an ipod through the stereo.
I'm gonna buy the 40cm one and put the 3 in 1 in the glove box. I've also spent £8 today on a cigarrette power socket for the glove box.
Should be cool if it all works well
pna said:
It would be good to hear from someone who already has this. I think I'll get one but didn't get clear answers to all my questions when I asked the supplier. It sounds like:
When it's plugged in, if you do not use the headset or a BT headset, and answer the call using the handset whilst plugged in, you will get the sound through the speaker but there will be no mic so you won't be heard.
As for TomTom, if you want to listen to the radio, surely you'll be able to select the sound off menu item in TomTom.
Also, if you unplug your 3.5mm from the device, you could plug it into the headphone jack of an ipod and listen to an ipod through the stereo.
I'm gonna buy the 40cm one and put the 3 in 1 in the glove box. I've also spent £8 today on a cigarrette power socket for the glove box.
Should be cool if it all works well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Question:
When it's plugged in, if you do not use the headset or a BT headset, and answer the call using the handset whilst plugged in, you will get the sound through the speaker but there will be no mic so you won't be heard.
Answer:
Yes that is correct, I dont have this mount but i use the same 3-way adapter, I use an old HTC headset which includes a MIC, i chopped off the leads to the earbuds and just route the mic in where the speedo is. The 3.5" outet does not support a MIC AFAIK so you have to use a mutliated HTC headset
Question:
As for TomTom, if you want to listen to the radio, surely you'll be able to select the sound off menu item in TomTom.
Answer:
When using tomom, sound will be routed to the 3.5" outlet and the HTC outlet. There may be a cab out there that can route sound to the Touch speaker even when connected to a HTC jack.
Question:
Also, if you unplug your 3.5mm from the device, you could plug it into the headphone jack of an ipod and listen to an ipod through the stereo.
Answer:
Mmmm think you have this the wrong way here, what your actually stating is you connecting your IPOD to your PDA.... In theory the 3.5" jack output is for attaching a tape adapter, FM transmiter or just earphones oh and maybe a 3.5" male to 3.5" male if your stereo takes a 3.5" aux input and also a 3.5" to left ad right RCA type...
Connecting your ipod to the 3.5" will not make it come through the stereo
Hope this helps
Nogs
wywywywy said:
Looks good!
(Really expensive though!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
expensive???
the set cost 20€ here in belgium =)
also brodit, just ordered one for my corolla, well its 20€ for me cuz I work in the shop ^^
MetalG said:
expensive???
the set cost 20€ here in belgium =)
also brodit, just ordered one for my corolla, well its 20€ for me cuz I work in the shop ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the shop you're working at have any websites where we can order it online?
Thanks
Hi, I've been using my G1 since its release. I recently sold my iPod touch and am trying to replace it with my G1. I got an HTC adapter that plugs into the HTC mini usb and pushes to a: (1) Charging mini usb, (2) Headset Mini usb, (3) 2.5mm w/inline mic, and (4) 3.5mm w/inline mic. In my car I have one of those 3.5mm to tape deck adapters. The problem to which I can't find a hardware solution and hope to find a software solution is; When I plug in my "3.5mm/tape-deck" adapter to the 3.5mm of the HTC adapter when I receive calls the inline mic input gets pushed through to the "3.5mm/tape-deck" which then gets "dead-ended" in the tape player. I was wondering if there is a way I can override the mic input to stay on the built-in mic on my G1. Sorry if this doesn't make sense I'm doing my best to explain my problem. In theory this should be an easy fix, I think. I'll accept a hardware solution I suppuse but I'd prefer a software solution.
PS: I'm running CyanogenMod 4.2.14.1 So my phone is rooted and you can post root only solutions.
amgarlin said:
Hi, I've been using my G1 since its release. I recently sold my iPod touch and am trying to replace it with my G1. I got an HTC adapter that plugs into the HTC mini usb and pushes to a: (1) Charging mini usb, (2) Headset Mini usb, (3) 2.5mm w/inline mic, and (4) 3.5mm w/inline mic. In my car I have one of those 3.5mm to tape deck adapters. The problem to which I can't find a hardware solution and hope to find a software solution is; When I plug in my "3.5mm/tape-deck" adapter to the 3.5mm of the HTC adapter when I receive calls the inline mic input gets pushed through to the "3.5mm/tape-deck" which then gets "dead-ended" in the tape player. I was wondering if there is a way I can override the mic input to stay on the built-in mic on my G1. Sorry if this doesn't make sense I'm doing my best to explain my problem. In theory this should be an easy fix, I think. I'll accept a hardware solution I suppuse but I'd prefer a software solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it makes sense, its just that I have no knowledge of anything about cars at all! haha
I use this to my advantage and use it as an almost hands-free device.
I don't quite know what you mean by "dead-ends" in the tape player, it should just hold the music and have the call, then when it ends, the music starts back from the pause.
I think the amount of people that do that are greater than the people that want the music to play and talk on the phone at the same time.
You can always unplug the phone and pick it up if you want to talk like that, with that phone in your ear.
Thanks for all the responses. I think I need to clarify this. This is the adapter im using: (edit: I am not allowed to use outside links. well its the htc 4 in one adapter. Its like the first one that pops up when you google HTC 4 in one adapter)
My problem is that my 3.5mm/tape-deck adapter has only 2-rings but the mic is automatically routed through, as though I had a headset plugged into the 3.5mm port. So when someone calls I can only hear them and cannot speak into the mic even though there is a mic on the phone. The phone "thinks" that there is a mic that I can speak into. I need a way to force route the mic input to the embedded one, even while my tape-deck adapter is plugged in.
The ultimate goal of all this is so that I can do everything on my phone in my car without picking it up and thereby maximizing safety.
PS If you don't understand any of what I said just ask and I'll do my best to explain. I am using layman's terms.
The original works great
The original HTC wired headset comes as two pieces. The section connected to the handset has the mic and pause button on it. The earbuds that come with it are just standard 3.5mm stereo earbuds. You replace the earbuds with the jack from the cassette adapter and Bob's your uncle. I've tried it in my truck. I'm not using the cassette adapter but my stereo has an audio input jack on the front. (Same sort of thing) There is a little echo on the other end of the call. It's not bad though.
I have the original wire headset that came with the G1, it is a single piece unit. Can you post a link to your headset? I googled htc headset but couldn't come up with anything like you described.
edit: Found the wire headset for the AT&T Tilt. It has a mini USB plug and is a 2piece unit.
HTC changed the headset for the G1 after the launch. Originally it was just the headset with the htc proprietary end on it, then they released it with an adapter and 3.5mm headphones.
Unfortunatly for us Canadians, Rogers did not release the Dream with an adapter so we have to pay to use 3.5mm headphones.
I was recently handed a Nokia HF-510 to demo (http://www.nokiausa.com/find-produc...n-handsfree/nokia-display-speakerphone-hf-510)
It's a Bluetooth car speaker phone. The only down side was that the G1 doesn't support the Phonebook Access profile, so you couldn't browse your contacts from the speaker phone, but it's sound quality was excellent, and can be very loud so using it with the windows down while on the highway was very nice. The mic gets pretty good pickup, so no need to shout at the thing. I just didn't like the shape... kinda bulky, so stowing it away in the glove box wasn't really ideal.
Thoughts
Im pretty much is same boat as you..From ur explaination i believe you have this adapter..
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...On any donut or cupcake roms..the mic signal seems to be rerouted back to tape deck as u said...buttttt...when i had a hero or eclair rom installed..it used the mic on the g1 itself..whilest still utilizing car stereo..so maybe its something in the software..or drivers..hope this helps
I have found that my only solution is JupiterJack or something similar. Just like the tape adapter that you're using, but it's wireless. You set the radio to a dead station and it picks up the signal from the JupiterJack. Now, mind you, I have only tested with WinMo so I can't tell you for sure if the G1 will use it's built-in mic, or if it will search usb for a mic signal and assume there is a mic present on the usb port. This is probably a 1.5 flaw, and is -definitely- a software issue because I have seen 'hands-free' devices like JupiterJack that specifically say they're only compatible with 1.6+
posted this in the accessories section but maybe it belongs here
--
Alright so I made that dock for when the Nexus 10 is at home, but what if I want it in the car? Next project! I basically used the Exogear Tablet Mount along with Pogo Cable and Griffin Bluetooth Adapter to fully intergrate the Nexus 10 into my car. Thought I'd write up the details just like the dock in case anyone wanted to give it a go.
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There's actually a lot that went into this, because:
1) It charges the tablet
2) Integrates with my car speakers
3) Is tethered to my phone, also mounted in the car
Stuff Used:
1) Tablet Mount
2) Pogo Cable
3) Phone Mount
4) Tablet Bluetooth
5) Phone Bluetooth
6) Power Adapter
7) Add a Circuit
8) Cigarette Lighter Adapter
9) AUX mixer
10) AUX Cable
11) PIE Interface
12) RCA Cable
13) Passive Amp
14) Ground Loop isolator
Step by Step
Step one was finding a mount/holder for the tablet. This one from exogear worked perfectly. I wanted charging, so I knew I wanted to integrate the pogo cable in somehow. I thought I would have to mod the holder a little but it was perfect as is - the pogo fits snuggly in the bottom:
Just force the usb end of the pogo into the hole at the bottom of the holder and you're good to go. I won't go into the details of removing the dash because every car is different, so I'l just say, get that cable inside the dash and leave it for now, we'll get back to it later. Lets stay on the outside for now. Next step, mount the phone:
Pretty simple. I found this mount to be the best - it was simple and allowed me to mount and dismount the phone quickly. I zip tied a charging cable for my phone and snaked that into the dash.
I integrated to my car stereo through bluetooth. But I wanted both the phone and the tablet to be connected. So I got two bluetooth devices. The trip here was to find ones that would auto connect without pressing any buttons on them since at least one would be behind the dash. And this was surprisingly hard to find. But this one from Griffin was exactly what I needed. It just plugs into a cigarette lighter and has a cable for Aux fro sound.
For the phone, I wanted one that I could use for calls and could control the phone with. So I mounted this little guy from Kinivo to the steering wheel. The one wire coming out of it split at the end to an aux for audio and a cigarette lighter plug. Bring that cable inside the dash.
Ok, so inside the dash is where all the magic happens.
So now we have to power everything. We have the following: USB from the pogo of the tablet, USB for the phone, 2 cigarette lighter plugs. Let's plug it all into this guy
But first you're going to have to modify it a little bit. So even though it says it can output 2.1A and 1A, that's only for apple products. Android handles things a little differently. If android detects that you're plugged into a usb port rather than a wall charger, it will only pull 500 mA regardless of what current is available. So we need to tell android that this is a higher current source. We do this by soldering the the two data lines in the usb together. The data lines are the middle two of the four. Just open up the case for the adapter and drop a ball of solder on the board for the middle two pins of both USB connectors. Trust me it works!
Now we need to plug the adapter into a power source. The easiest way to do this is to plug it into and cigarette lighter. But you don't find those inside the dash and I didn't want any cable on the outside, at least as little as possible. I wanted all the guts to be hidden. So for me, I had the fuse box under the driver's side dash which I wanted to tap into, and I think most cars have a fuse box in the same area. Find a fuse that is only powered when the engine is off. This is important, we don't want to drain the battery when the car is off. Once you find the fuse, get yourself an Add a Circuit . Very handly little guy. I used a 7.5 Amp fuse which was more than enough current to power everything.
Once you got that in, you'll need a cigarette lighter adapter. Connect that into your add a circuit and plug your power adapter into it and, boom, everything is powered.
Now we have to deal with the audio. I wanted both devices to have access to the speakers at the same time. So I needed a mixer. The strange thing is there is no such thing available for sale that I could find. I only saw stuff for high end musical equipment and so on. So I had to build my own. There's good guide how to do that here so i won't detail the instructions here. Those instructions are to build a 4 to 1 mixer, but we only need a 2 to 1, so it's a bit more simple but the basics are the same.
OK once you have that, plug your two AUX cable into the input and get yourself an Aux cable for the output.
So is where each car is different, but you need to get a PIE interface. Just find one for whatever car you have and use it with RCA Cable to hook into your car stereo.
Bonuses
1) If you find that you're volume is pretty low (which is likely due to the mixer), you'll need to get yourself an amp and put it in line. I got a passive one from here :http://phpaudio.jigsy.com/passive-preamp and I can vouch that it works great.
2) Be aware of the ground loop. If you're hearing excess noise, you might be coupled into you car's ground loop. The telltale of this is if the pitch of the static noise changes as you accelerate. If you get that, there's an easy fix. Get yourself a ground loop isolator to put in line.
Software
To wrap up, there are a few pieces of software that make the thing even better. One is of course Tasker. Set it up so that your phone automatically turn on wifi tether when it connects to both the bluetooth of the car and to the tablet. Second is Tablet Talk. It allows you to dial, answer and make calls from the tablet. It's an awesome piece of software and has great Tasker integration.
That's all I got!
Nice Dude:good:
Awesome, but it seems kind of difficult for me.
This is great! Very nice walkthrough on how you did it. My dash is a bit small for a 10" tablet on it, but a project like this has always really interested me for future vehicles I may have. I really dig how you did the dual bluetooth thing. That's something I've thought about wanting for my phone and tablet, but never really thought of a way to do it. What you did is great and I may have to consider that even without the extra mounting stuff.
Some of the steps may sound intimidating for a lot of people for sure. Wiring the power feed into the fuse panel is easier than most probably think. Or if you could run your wires to that point, take it to your local mechanic or buddy, and I bet they'd just tie it in for you real quick.
Z_Black said:
This is great! Very nice walkthrough on how you did it. My dash is a bit small for a 10" tablet on it, but a project like this has always really interested me for future vehicles I may have. I really dig how you did the dual bluetooth thing. That's something I've thought about wanting for my phone and tablet, but never really thought of a way to do it. What you did is great and I may have to consider that even without the extra mounting stuff.
Some of the steps may sound intimidating for a lot of people for sure. Wiring the power feed into the fuse panel is easier than most probably think. Or if you could run your wires to that point, take it to your local mechanic or buddy, and I bet they'd just tie it in for you real quick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think people should be intimidated at any of this at all. It's all really simple to do, just have to be willing to get your hands dirty and give it a try. I really had no idea what I was doing and figured it out as I went along and found various components. Solving the unexpected problems (low sound, ground loop, low charging current) was actually the more fun part.
Nicely done
Posts like these reinstates my faith into XDA developers forum being truly a developers forum! What you did there is truly awesome! Thanks...
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
samyoue said:
Nicely done
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sids911 said:
Posts like these reinstates my faith into XDA developers forum being truly a developers forum! What you did there is truly awesome! Thanks...
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks guys!
Nice setup, I especially like the mixer. I've been trying to think of a solution that would allow me to connect my phone, tablet, and a HAM radio that I'm going to install towards the end of the summer to my Honda Fit's AUX port.
A couple questions for you now that you've had it in your car for a while, how's the audio quality when streaming using the Griffin? There are enough reviews on amazon complaining about poor quality that it gives me pause. Also, I'm assuming that you needed the PIE module for your car since you didn't already have an AUX port, correct?
Sidebar: a lot of the links in your list don't actually link to the product that you're trying to link to.
Vaclov said:
Nice setup, I especially like the mixer. I've been trying to think of a solution that would allow me to connect my phone, tablet, and a HAM radio that I'm going to install towards the end of the summer to my Honda Fit's AUX port.
A couple questions for you now that you've had it in your car for a while, how's the audio quality when streaming using the Griffin? There are enough reviews on amazon complaining about poor quality that it gives me pause. Also, I'm assuming that you needed the PIE module for your car since you didn't already have an AUX port, correct?
Sidebar: a lot of the links in your list don't actually link to the product that you're trying to link to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio quality on the Griffin is great to my ear. People like to complain about audio quality, read any review of any audio related product and you'll see people complaining. I think it has a lot more to do with the speaker systems in their cars rather than the Bluetooth itself.
My car does have an AUX input but it's in the center console arm rest. I know the Fits have a AUX near the stereo so you could do that if you don't mind the little cable. I'm kind OCD and want all my cable hidden.
In terms of the links, they all work fine to me. What are they linking to for you?
CaramelBoogers said:
The audio quality on the Griffin is great to my ear. People like to complain about audio quality, read any review of any audio related product and you'll see people complaining. I think it has a lot more to do with the speaker systems in their cars rather than the Bluetooth itself.
My car does have an AUX input but it's in the center console arm rest. I know the Fits have a AUX near the stereo so you could do that if you don't mind the little cable. I'm kind OCD and want all my cable hidden.
In terms of the links, they all work fine to me. What are they linking to for you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the feedback. I figured as much about the Griffin but wanted to check. With the pie installed does it disable the existing aux port? As for the links it seems to have resolved itself. The other night when I was reading this on the nexus in chrome it was opening something the the power adapter when I clicked on the BT adapters. Strange.
How does the exomount handle vertical adjustment?
Vaclov said:
Thanks for the feedback. I figured as much about the Griffin but wanted to check. With the pie installed does it disable the existing aux port? As for the links it seems to have resolved itself. The other night when I was reading this on the nexus in chrome it was opening something the the power adapter when I clicked on the BT adapters. Strange.
How does the exomount handle vertical adjustment?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's adjustable, don't really remember exactly how. I think there's a knob. The whole this is very versatile. I just have it on the lowest setting since it would obstruct my driving view otherwise.
It is a great and well done project! :good:
I would consider orienting it upside down, so that the pogo is on the top so that the connector isn't subject to as much gravity.
There is only one word to define this DIY: incredible
This is what imagination can make you create...
CaramelBoogers said:
It's adjustable, don't really remember exactly how. I think there's a knob. The whole this is very versatile. I just have it on the lowest setting since it would obstruct my driving view otherwise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've picked up most of the items needed to do the install in my Fit. When I finish I'll post a few pictures of the finished product. You were right about the exomount being versatile. I'm very impressed with it. When you hard wired the the bestek into the fuse box where did you take it to ground since the add-a-circuits only have the positive lead?
Vaclov said:
I've picked up most of the items needed to do the install in my Fit. When I finish I'll post a few pictures of the finished product. You were right about the exomount being versatile. I'm very impressed with it. When you hard wired the the bestek into the fuse box where did you take it to ground since the add-a-circuits only have the positive lead?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There was a screw that a lot of stuff was grounded to, so I just looped the wire and stuck it under that screw along with all the other wires. You'd probably find something similar near your fuse box too. Looking forward to seeing the pictures! I'm glad this writeup is proving helpful.
Kinovo on-dash APT-X Bluetooth & Mic adapter for Car Stereo -Behind dash installation
This thread will show you how to add APT-X bluetooth music/phone adapter behind your dash for a nice, clean, hidden-like install.
Got tired of crappy sounding bluetooth from my phone to my car stereo. So I got an adapter for my car stereo that uses the new Hi-Def APT-X bluetooth codec (cleaner highs & lows, higher bitrate).
If you've got $500, then you can get the new Kenwood car stereo that offers APT-X.
If you don't have $500, then you can be like me and get the $40 adapter that just plugs into the car stereo aux port.
Works great!
Has built-in microphone for voice calling and Google Now and Utter usage. And a few hard buttons for music and phone control.
The Kinovo is available from the mfg for $39, which is the same price I got it for on Amazon Prime.
http://www.kinivo.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60
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Stock, this Kinovo uses an external power adapter that plugs into your cig lighter. I didn't like the wire mess though, so I cut the power wire and spliced it to a USB connector which I then plugged into the back of my car stereo for power.
So when the car stereo turns on, so does my Kinovo.
And it seems the Kinovo auto-re-connects to my phone upon power up. And it all happens pretty fast. Very happy withe results.
Music that sounds just as good as a hard-wired AUX connection but without wires between my phone and car stereo.
And it sounds way better than standard A2DP's SBC codec which is what 99.9% of all other Bluetooth adapters & car stereo's use.
If you're on AOSP ROM's then ignore this because you don't have the APT-X codec. Sorry, you're screwed. But check out the thread linked in my signature if you want to get it going someday.
If you're on TouchWiz, then read on and enjoy higher quality Bluetooth sound than you're used to!!
Size comparison between the Avantree Cara (on right) vs. the Kinovo (on the left).
I sent the Cara back to the vendor. Too big and too many wires.
First, you cut off the cig lighter and strip the wire back to expose the positive and negative.
Note that this is crappy, tiny headphone sized wire. Ugh.
The postive and negative are "painted" to keep them from shorting out on each other.
So grab your BIC and give each wire a *quick* flick of the lighter. Just enough to make the wire go "poof" and it'll burn off the paint so you can solder.
Here, I've got the wires twist tied to a regular old USB connector.
Red to red, black to black.
Any wire other than red or black, can just be cut off since it'll be unused.
Any, and I mean just about any normal USB cable will work fine.
Go ahead and tin the wires with your soldering tool.
Here we are in my car now.
The top connector is the USB cable that I spliced into the Kinovo's power wire.
The bottom, female USB is the USB cable that comes out of the back of my car stereo.
Just plug the two together.
The Kinovo comes with its own double-sided tape.
But I had some really strong 3M tape in my toolbox, so I used that instead.
Put it where you want to mount the Kinovo.
Since I wanted to run the wires BEHIND my dash for a clean install, I had to get a little creative.
My dash cover has a very tight seal to the dash. So I broke out my Dremel and buzzed a tiny 1/4" sized indent into it.
You can't see this from the seated position. So even when I remove the Kinovo someday, it won't be an eyesore.
Nice, the Kinovo wire fits into the indent nicely. No squished wire!!
Side view of the indent/wire install.
Completed install.
My car stereo's 3.5mm aux port is on the front right corner of the deck.
The install bezel for the deck is loose enough that I was able to fit the Kinovo's 3.5mm audio cable between it w/out squishing.
NICE. I think I might give this one a shot.
is there any chance I can configure this to connect to TWO phones simultaneously. ONE for audio and ONE for calls only?
I have a Note II (may be switching to Note III if it survives a flight to 5000 feet this summer) that I use for music and gps navigation and of course My Note III I use for making calls.
I would like the Music and GPS audio from the Note II and the CALL audio from the Note III
anyway to do this? ie media audio from the note II phone audio from the Note III ?
I guess I could install 2 of them one for each phone. I would just have to remember to "pause" one to take calls on the other.
I assume pushing the large button works as a "pause/play" like on most bluetooth units?
how is the call quality? speaker feedback? Mic Quality? Noise Reduction?
Funny enough, I've been looking at this and also the Himbox: http://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Convenient-Activation/dp/B00GJFGDUQ
The Himbox actually has better reviews, but both appear to be almost identical. I like your set up and might even try a little behind the scenes work like yours.
Thanks for sharing.
I'm not crazy about the lights on the himbox. In a dark car, it might look cool, or it might be annoying?
One thing to keep in mind on the himbox, is the power/aux cable split has shorter length than the kinovo. It's probably long enough for most people, but it is one thing to consider when you go to buy a device.
nerys71 said:
NICE. I think I might give this one a shot.
is there any chance I can configure this to connect to TWO phones simultaneously. ONE for audio and ONE for calls only?
I have a Note II (may be switching to Note III if it survives a flight to 5000 feet this summer) that I use for music and gps navigation and of course My Note III I use for making calls.
I would like the Music and GPS audio from the Note II and the CALL audio from the Note III
anyway to do this? ie media audio from the note II phone audio from the Note III ?
I guess I could install 2 of them one for each phone. I would just have to remember to "pause" one to take calls on the other.
I assume pushing the large button works as a "pause/play" like on most bluetooth units?
how is the call quality? speaker feedback? Mic Quality? Noise Reduction?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mic quality seems to work just find but I haven't spent a lot of time on the phone. I mostly use the mic for Google Now and it works well.
The user in the link below compared the Kinovo to the Himbox and said they liked the Himbox better because it could connect to more than one phone?
http://www.amazon.com/review/RFGTEN9WUO1ZM/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_alt_1
Sealed it. Dual usb power available in colors (where I plan to mount lights wont be a problem) $4 cheaper and this one is directly powered by usb which is a huge plus to me. I dont have to tear is apart to elimjnate the 12v conversion lime I would have done with the kinivo unit to get around the split media problem I will just use two of them on a splitter. Press to pause music then answer the phone on the other one. Although that wont stop the gps from blaring in during a call
nerys71 said:
this one is directly powered by usb which is a huge plus to me. I dont have to tear is apart to eliminate the 12v conversion lime I would have done with the kinivo unit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good catch, I didn't notice that.
A built-in USB port for charging is a huge plus on the himbox. :good:
They both have usb charging but the kinovo its permanently attached to its 12v plig while the himbox is just usb power. So with the himbox you basically get a dual 2/1 amp usb plug free since I wont use it to power the himbox (will wire usb power behind the stereo.
Although. I kust thougbt of a huge potential problem does the himbox auto link like the kinovo does when powere up? That is abdeal breaker differwnce to me. Ie I want that feature badly.
WOW bro... man after my own heart... first the case ... now the BT add on in the car. I have not messed with my BT in the car, my Boss system already has it but it only does Phone. Trying to figure away to flash it, so it plays audio.
Years ago I discovered these adapter pods that work with each manufacturer's OEM stereo via harness on eBay. They gave the ability to attach a 30-pin iPod/iPhone to your car stereo as well as handsfree. What I did was attach this to the back of the car stereo, then something like the Auris 30-pin bluetooth w/ APT-X. Power to the unit is through the OEM stereo, so I'm not taking up the charger plug except for my phone/tablet.
As long as your OEM stereo is already at a decent quality, what you can achieve with these parts is essentially a hidden bluetooth system w/ APT-X quality that also preserves the function of being able to control the music if you have mechanical steering wheel buttons.Obviously if your car has an iPod auxiliary, you can just use the 30-pin to bluetooth adapter.
Guys, when I did my testing the other day, I must have had the Kinovo on an always-on power source. Because when I left for an hour and then came back, the Kinovo auto-reconnected to my phone without any user-interaction required.
But now that I've got the Kinovo permanently installed, I'm not seeing that behavior.
Once I'm gone for an hour and come back, I have to press the kinovo button to reconnect. It's a quick click, and you hear a couple beeps an boom, you're reconnected in like 1.5 seconds.
So I don't have to touch anything on my phone if Bluetooth is already turned on. But I do have to give the Kinovo a quick button click.
Got my himbox. Absolutely amazing. Audibly superior quality. Reconnects to phone automatically on power up almost jnstantly. Controls work great and voice command press and hold works great.
Most impressed. Ordered a second one for the second phone and will eventually order one for each car. I mounted mine on the steering column. Perfect reach position and out of site
The second one I will eventually mount up here will put a hole in the co sole and slightly counter sync it for a nice factory look
That looks great. And you didn't even have to cut anything up! :good:
So after further review, the Kinovo does auto reconnect if I go into a grocery store and come out some time later.
But if it's a lot longer, like the next day, then I have to reconnect manually by pressing the button.
Then I installed a free app called "Bluetooth Auto Connect" and it takes care of the reconnection for me in just a second or two. Works great. :good:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.myklos.btautoconnect&hl=en
My guess is its part of the power on cycle. Ie you need to turn it off when you leave the car by connecting to power that goes on and off with the ignition. This way it powers up each time and that is when it does its auto connect routine.
Old thread but glad I found it... My avic d3 in my truck doesn't put out 5v, so it looks like I am going to have to buy a 12v to 5v converter...
I wish the manufacture of this would have just had it run off 12v... would have been so much easier to wire up. I too want the no wire look in my little ranger so clipping wires and putting it behind the dash is a must...
-Nigel
NewShockerGuy said:
Old thread but glad I found it... My avic d3 in my truck doesn't put out 5v, so it looks like I am going to have to buy a 12v to 5v converter...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used this 12v to 5v on my motorcycle without any issues.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conve...070635?hash=item35e3f9e06b:g:iV4AAOxyOlhS9Dyk
Or at least, I used one of the dozens of clones you find on eBay. They're likely all made at the same warehouse though.
CZ Eddie said:
I used this 12v to 5v on my motorcycle without any issues.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conve...070635?hash=item35e3f9e06b:g:iV4AAOxyOlhS9Dyk
Or at least, I used one of the dozens of clones you find on eBay. They're likely all made at the same warehouse though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You rock! Thank you.
I'm going to use then then clip the usb connector off and solder it to the wires of the bt device!
Did you ever get interference or noises using the above device?
I don't listen to FM at all, but I just don't want whine or noise when listening to Pandora..etc.
Thanks,
-Nigel
NewShockerGuy said:
You rock! Thank you.
I'm going to use then then clip the usb connector off and solder it to the wires of the bt device!
Did you ever get interference or noises using the above device?
I don't listen to FM at all, but I just don't want whine or noise when listening to Pandora..etc.
Thanks,
-Nigel
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are available without the USB connector also. I've used that type as well.
I don't recall either of them ever introducing any noise in my stereos.
Without the USB....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conve...575896?hash=item1c6b609498:g:nxcAAOSwTZ1Xl~rw
I'm trying to figure out, without buying anything new, if the whining sound I hear when using the 3.5mm adapter is a product of the adapter or not. The whining sounds like the whining from a bad belt on a car. I actually thought it was my car at first.
Is anyone else using an adapter and also suffers from this?
The adapter I have:
Amazon.com
utnick said:
I'm trying to figure out, without buying anything new, if the whining sound I hear when using the 3.5mm adapter is a product of the adapter or not. The whining sounds like the whining from a bad belt on a car. I actually thought it was my car at first.
Is anyone else using an adapter and also suffers from this?
The adapter I have:
Amazon.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Disclaimer: 6 Pro here.
I'm using the adapter from Google and have not heard any whining sounds.
Try plugging it into something else (like your computer) and see if the sound remains?
Lughnasadh said:
Disclaimer: 6 Pro here.
I'm using the adapter from Google and have not heard any whining sounds.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it a USB-C to 3.5mm adapter?
utnick said:
Is it a USB-C to 3.5mm adapter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
It my just be your cars electrical system.
I remember the days. If you did notthing too isolate the alternator and distributor. You would hear the engine revving on the radio. Lol..
vandyman said:
It my just be your cars electrical system.
I remember the days. If you did notthing too isolate the alternator and distributor. You would hear the engine revving on the radio. Lol..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It wasn't present with my previous LG G8X using the same Aux cord I'm using now. The differences now are the Pixel 6 and the USB-C to 3.5mm adapter.
vandyman said:
It my just be your cars electrical system.
I remember the days. If you did notthing too isolate the alternator and distributor. You would hear the engine revving on the radio. Lol..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems that there must be something with the car and the adapter. Using the adapter with headphones and using the adapter with the same Aux cord and a soundbar does not create the whining sound.
Edit:
Yeah, it's something with my car and the adapter. Funny bit is that the adapter is said to have "super noise reduction technology". It would be funny if it's what causing the whining.
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utnick said:
It seems that there must be something with the car and the adaptor. Using the adapter with headphones and using the adapter with the same Aux cord and a soundbar does not create the whining sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could the car. Bad spark plug wires are a common problem.
vandyman said:
It could the car. Bad spark plug wires are a common problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a 2011 diesel bimmer.
utnick said:
It's a 2011 diesel bimmer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you get a chance some day. Try the setup in another car and see what happens.
Edit; I do not want scare you into thinking there is definitely something wrong with your car, but anything is possible.
vandyman said:
When you get a chance some day. Try the setup in another car and see what happens.
Edit; I do not want scare you into thinking there is definitely something wrong with your car, but anything is possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It wouldn't surprise me if it is my car. Either way -- I'm gonna have to get another adapter.
vandyman said:
It could the car. Bad spark plug wires are a common problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It wouldn't be spark plugs. Virtually all cars made in the last 20 years have separate coils for each plug, not the old fashioned cap and rotor. They're shielded.
The part that makes the noise is the alternator, which creates a sinusoidal wave, both in the wiring and in em.
Alternators are present on all cars, gas or diesel.
utnick said:
It wasn't present with my previous LG G8X using the same Aux cord I'm using now. The differences now are the Pixel 6 and the USB-C to 3.5mm adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has to be the USB sound card (adapter dongle) or car analog wiring. The phone signal to the sound card is digital and can't receive analog interference.
96carboard said:
Has to be the USB sound card (adapter dongle) or car analog wiring. The phone signal to the sound card is digital and can't receive analog interference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It isn't present without the adapter so a guess is that the adapter is drawing power from the phone and passing it through to the aux cable? Though it doesn't seem to do the same with headphones or hooked up to a soundbar. I dunno.
Pixel 6 usb type c supports only digital audio so all conversion to analogue signal is made by the DAC (digital to analogue converter) in the cable. This is why cheapest type c to 3.5mm cables without DAC do not work at all. It is quite strange but maybe just this cable do not play well with your car.
utnick said:
It isn't present without the adapter so a guess is that the adapter is drawing power from the phone and passing it through to the aux cable? Though it doesn't seem to do the same with headphones or hooked up to a soundbar. I dunno.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone's power is DC and clean from the battery, so it won't be supplying a sinusoidal wave. The noise CAN'T come from the phone. The dongle or wire is picking up RF or unstable electrical *FROM THE CAR*.
96carboard said:
The phone's power is DC and clean from the battery, so it won't be supplying a sinusoidal wave. The noise CAN'T come from the phone. The dongle or wire is picking up RF or unstable electrical *FROM THE CAR*.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gotcha.
So previously, the wire alone, didn't pick up the noise. What about the adapter, do you think, could be picking up noise? And from what? The aux jack is in the center console. There is also a USB port next to it. At this point it's all academic. I'm going to buy a Google or Apple adapter and see how it performs.
utnick said:
Gotcha.
So previously, the wire alone, didn't pick up the noise. What about the adapter, do you think, could be picking up noise? And from what? The aux jack is in the center console. There is also a USB port next to it. At this point it's all academic. I'm going to buy a Google or Apple adapter and see how it performs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its hard to tell. Depends on whats in it and how it is wired. It may also depend on the car's audio wiring -- if the car is wired for single-ended inputs, then the shell may be attached to chassis, which may carry noisy signals to the audio dongle.
It seems to me that the most likely cause is some component in the audio dongle being unshielded and allowing RF into the pre-amp circuit. An easy thing you can try, and I know this might sound a bit wacky, is wrapping tinfoil around the audio dongle to see if that has any impact on the noise you are experiencing. If it does, it would confirm this theory.
96carboard said:
Its hard to tell. Depends on whats in it and how it is wired. It may also depend on the car's audio wiring -- if the car is wired for single-ended inputs, then the shell may be attached to chassis, which may carry noisy signals to the audio dongle.
It seems to me that the most likely cause is some component in the audio dongle being unshielded and allowing RF into the pre-amp circuit. An easy thing you can try, and I know this might sound a bit wacky, is wrapping tinfoil around the audio dongle to see if that has any impact on the noise you are experiencing. If it does, it would confirm this theory.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like a fun experiment. Heck, maybe I'll just go with the home-brew solution if it works. I don't care if it looks crappy.