Hi all,
I've come across many post here asking the possibility of upgrading the eMMC that always answered that's it's not possible due to many pin underneath the BGA.
After several research I've come across a couple of YouTube video that show that it is possible to CHANGE the eMMC because it's not soldered to board, BUT GLUED.
Here is the video:
youtube.com/watch?v=F_Z1CKU0fpk
youtube.com/watch?v=dHPoWDQJdZg
It only took about 10 minute for these dude to change the eMMC.
I hope by sharing this information, I could make those who were have the ability to do this become creative and perhaps try to change the eMMC with 64GB or perhaps 128GB.
MyShai said:
Hi all,
I've come across many post here asking the possibility of upgrading the eMMC that always answered that's it's not possible due to many pin underneath the BGA.
After several research I've come across a couple of YouTube video that show that it is possible to CHANGE the eMMC because it's not soldered to board, BUT GLUED.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glue would not be conductive.. You are confused. Besides, replacing a BGA with a hot gun is pretty difficult work, easy to screw up and knock stuff off, pull a pad, or when replacing cause a short somewhere.
Just..... no
khaytsus said:
Glue would not be conductive.. You are confused. Besides, replacing a BGA with a hot gun is pretty difficult work, easy to screw up and knock stuff off, pull a pad, or when replacing cause a short somewhere.
Just..... no
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why NOT?
1. It's been done by many as witness in youtube video I post (did you watch?)
2. Their not glueing the BGA PIN to the board. They glueing the SIDE OF THE eMMC to the board.
3. The Manufacture / Samsung (in this youtube video is SGS3 & SGN2) were GLUEING the eMMC to the board (too).
4. Perhaps you're not as skilful in hardware as the person in those youtube video.
MyShai said:
Why NOT?
1. It's been done by many as witness in youtube video I post (did you watch?)
2. Their not glueing the BGA PIN to the board. They glueing the SIDE OF THE eMMC to the board.
3. The Manufacture / Samsung (in this youtube video is SGS3 & SGN2) were GLUEING the eMMC to the board (too).
4. Perhaps you're not as skilful in hardware as the person in those youtube video.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the chip is also glued I don't know/care. The heat is for the solder, plain and simple.
Glue is just used to keep the parts in place during reflow soldering...
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 4 mit Tapatalk
skin57 said:
Glue is just used to keep the parts in place during reflow soldering...
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 4 mit Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is correct. When we create a board we assemble components to be held in place by glue than reflow the board. No manufacturer would ever use glue to hold a vital component to a board...
runningwarrior08 said:
No manufacturer would ever use glue to hold a vital component to a board...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not entirely true since Nokia used a glue to keep the LCD flex in place in some cheaper models (100, 113, 1616, C1-01). These were not soldered at all, there is no connector on the board, just pads and display is just glued to these. HTC also used to glue power button flex directly to the PCB back in the days (Wildfire S).
If it comes to eMMC however, they're always soldered directly to the board and then glued to keep in place, resist water (partially since the glue is often on one side only) and make it harder to remove. It's possible to replace it, but it's not that easy as in the video, especially if you never done it before. Also, such operation requires you to backup current eMMC content (not really an issue with root) and then write dump onto the new chip to keep your device booting and working properly. The ones on the video are pre-programmed.
KrzychuG said:
Not entirely true since Nokia used a glue to keep the LCD flex in place in some cheaper models (100, 113, 1616, C1-01). These were not soldered at all, there is no connector on the board, just pads and display is just glued to these. HTC also used to glue power button flex directly to the PCB back in the days (Wildfire S).
If it comes to eMMC however, they're always soldered directly to the board and then glued to keep in place, resist water (partially since the glue is often on one side only) and make it harder to remove. It's possible to replace it, but it's not that easy as in the video, especially if you never done it before. Also, such operation requires you to backup current eMMC content (not really an issue with root) and then write dump onto the new chip to keep your device booting and working properly. The ones on the video are pre-programmed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Flat-Flex-Cables can be glue-mounted (without an connector), however: The flat-flex-to-board-CONNECTION itself is made using a technique called "Hot bar connection" (where, as the name implies, the connection is soldered to the board using a hot bar). So, glue provides only mechanical strenght - but not he electrical connection.
Related
My battery has gone to hell. After getting it down to 5% one day, it just would not hold a charge long. Then I got it down to 10% a week later, and it really got bad. Life is about 1/3 what it used to be. I also have some dust and even small hairs or flecks in the screen.
So...I ordered a new advance replacement unit from T-Mobile, and it just arrived. Simple enough? Well, I have the memory upgrade in mine, so I need to do some component swapping. What's the best way to go about this? What parts can be disconnected easily (or more importantly, reconnected)? Where is the damn battery (didn't see it in the disassembly photos on the site)?
Hi,
Carlos said:
So...I ordered a new advance replacement unit from T-Mobile, and it just arrived. Simple enough? Well, I have the memory upgrade in mine, so I need to do some component swapping. What's the best way to go about this? What parts can be disconnected easily (or more importantly, reconnected)? Where is the damn battery (didn't see it in the disassembly photos on the site)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please specify 'component swapping' in more detail... Are you actually thinking about swapping the memory upgrade??? You do know that that would mean desoldering the 2 big memory chips on both boards, cleaning them and the boards, and soldering them back... How good are you at smd soldering??? We haven't dared doing that, yet... (some pics of upgrading memory of an iPaq are available at http://www.linearlogix.com/ipaq/upgradereview.html
There are commercial services doing the upgrade (32 -> 64 mb), if I were you I'd contact one of those.
Other than that, we're currently swapping lcd screens, touchpanels, mainboards from 3 broken units to create 2 working units and 1 very broken one. So, what do you need to know exactly?
BTW, the battery is stuck on the inside of the back cover.
XDA developer bigmac (taking pictures of the open units right now...)
No, no, I can solder normal stuff, but not that. I mean, I assume what I need to do is keep my own motherboard. I'd like the screen, case, and battery from the new unit. On the radio section, I suppose it doesn't matter either way. So I incorrectly said "component" when what I really meant was "board," and desired advice on doing that.
The hazards of posting in the middle of the night after too much work.
Carlos said:
No, no, I can solder normal stuff, but not that. I mean, I assume what I need to do is keep my own motherboard. I'd like the screen, case, and battery from the new unit. On the radio section, I suppose it doesn't matter either way. So I incorrectly said "component" when what I really meant was "board," and desired advice on doing that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, so you want to use the screen/touchpanel/backlight assembly from the new one (smart move, not taking that apart; besides the fact that it's glued together and you need to separate it on the correct separation, that also leaves the risk of forgetting the correct orientation of the glass panel with little dots on it, used to distribute the backlight evently onto the lcd; and, there are slightly different assemblies out there which need slightly different panels...). You should keep all boards from the old unit (old mainboard including old radio unit, use the new screen/touchpanel/backlight assemly, and the new case (which includes the new battery).
You could consider swapping IMEI numbers on the units... Although _shops_ never register the numbers when they give out units, service departments might. You know where to find the tool to do that...
The screwing around of the parts should not take more than half an hour if it's the first time you take apart this unit (but have taken apart small electronics before) and less if you've done it before.
Beware of the really thin clear plastic rings used under the screws to screw down the display...
We won't be publishing a very detailed 'how to swap your screen' instruction any time soon but do have some raw unedited pictures of the operation. I'll see if we can get them online any time soon.
Have fun,
XDA developer bigmac
I ended up doing the change and ran into a snag--the plastic pin that sticks out of the top power button was loose or broken (probably happened in one of the many drops the unit has experienced). When I opened the case, I lost that. Had to send it to PPC Techs to have them solder in a new power switch.
Other than that, disassembly is pretty easy and straightforward. You mentioned you won't publish a how-to...is that because of not wanting to have it on the site, or that nobody wants to write one? If the latter, I'd be happy to write it up and include my detailed pics.
If you want to make a detailed howto on how to open and close the unit, and how to exchange certain parts, we will gladly put it on!
Do make sure to stress that people need a certain level of experience or be willing to risk losing the device though...
Hi there,
as i wrote in the Rainbow Mod for Lumia 800 thread, i'll try to restore DLOAD, update to latest FW, and restore Qualcomm (all with ATF Testpoint) again, that i can give you updated files on Partition 3 of the phone, that the latest rainbow mod build will be working on all phones...
But it seemed that i had a pretty shaky hand, when i was soldering my device, that i "destroyed" a component.
First, it was still fitting, but a little "twistet" as you can see on the pictures attached.
I checked if the phone is still working, and it did, except the "light sensor" which turns off the display when making a call... I can now cancel the call with my ear accidently
I realised an extreme heat and battery consumption when making a call... but maybe it just seems so, because i'm looking for "mistakes" because of the broken component...
Then, because of this, i disassembled my phone again, to check the component... and i just touched it a little bit, and now it fell off...
The component i'm talking about is called "L1605" in the schematics plan, so it should be a "coil" (hope this is correct, as English isn't my native lang...)
Of course, because it "fell off", i don't know how it was placed before. Does a coil have a "polarity", i mean "+" or "-" ? or can i just solder it back onto the mainboard?
i hope you can help me
cheers
hi there,
i searched again and found out, that the "L1605" is an "27nH_0402". In the schematics plan it's part of the "reciever", as you can see in the image attached.
Can you tell me if this coil is important? It "just" goes to GND, so maybe it would be enough to just connect the to pins (were the coil was placed) with some solder ?
It also seems to be part of "FM & GND", so maybe it's just important for FM Radio? I don't use this anyway...
pls help!
i guess it has no polarity...but if u could upload a more detailed picture maybe i can see it clearly..
or search for ( as u can see the black component which has a white sign near the two condensator - it has polarity ) signs, i mean +, or a little colored circle on the component, or some cut-off and if it has one of these it has polarity.
what kind of paste did u use for the soldering? leadless or pb? it does matter.
ps : L means Inductor
It's a simple inductor. You can just solder it back in. It has no polarity.
Do not shorten the contacts. The circuit will probably behave bad.
hi there,
can you recommend me any "special" hardware?
With links would be great!
I only have an ordinary soldering-iron, whrere the tip is 3 times larger then the component
cheers
Here is some of the equipment I use for such a fix:
* Weller WES51 soldering station
* Weller ETU soldering iron fine tip
* curved fine tip tweezers
* straight tip dissection probe
* 20x stereo microscope
* solder
The WES51 soldering iron is available for under US $100 online (Amazon and elsewhere) with a variety of replacement tips available for about US $5 each, and I recommend it if you will be doing much soldering. Otherwise, you can probably find a cheaper one with a fine tip, but without temperature control. When soldering and desoldering small two contact components such as your broken inductor, the best method I've found is to use a second soldering iron so you can melt the solder on both the pads at the same time. Small components are hard to handle, so tweezers and a long sharp needle / dissection tip are very helpful. It's hard to see what you are doing at that scale, so a stereo microscope is almost mandatory. AmScope has some cheap microscopes that are adequate for this purpose, or you can find a fancier used one on eBay. My only complaints with the AmScope microscope I have is that the depth of field is somewhat shallow and I need to get my face closer to the work area than I would like. You can use and lead/tin alloy or lead-free solder designed for electronics use to do a fix like this. Lead / tin alloy solder melts at a lower temperature and is much easier to work with than lead-free solder but may not be as easily available in some countries.
I can't tell for sure without a bill of materials for the phone, but based on what you've said it seems like the replacement part is a 27 nH air core inductor 0402 size such as Murata LQW15AN27NJ00D, which is easily available through Digi-Key and possibly other online electronics component vendors.
I have a very specific question with regards to replacing the charging port on the i777. I have searched threads discussing charging port replacement, but was unable to find anything about this specific issue. I am currently going through my first repair on my i777 that needs a new charging port. I bought the replacement on ebay, but something stood out once I compared it to the original charging port I took out. On the original there is a small rubber piece hanging down (around where the screw holes are). On the replacement piece it's just a metal piece hanging down in the same place. Do I need to have that rubber piece on the replacement charging port? Would it even affect the functionality of the phone? Is there a way to take the rubber piece off the original and transfer it to the replacement, or should I just buy one with the rubber piece on? If someone has asked this question already forgive me, but I did not see it in the thread I skimmed through.
Here is a pic of both them side by side. The top one is the original and the bottom is the replacement I got from ebay.
farm8.staticflickr (.com) /7281/9735538853_4e701482f8_o (.jpg)
It would not let me post link yet so just remove parentesis and spaces to view picture link.
That gray part is for waterproofing the microphone I believe. It just slides off of the old part and onto the new one, just be careful. Also if you have no signal, by now you may have already found the following thread. I had to do this a couple of weeks ago to get a signal: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1950114&page=5 I'll try harder to match up the part numbers next time!
iXNyNe, please let us know if the newegg part works, or if you end up needing to modify it (see link in above post), or purchase another.
iXNyNe said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2C51D87922 just ordered this. [...]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cyril279 said:
iXNyNe, please let us know if the newegg part works, or if you end up needing to modify it (see link in above post), or purchase another.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'll report back once i have them
i already took the phone apart just to peek around inside, the part looks just like what's already there. the picture shows some teal/aqua colored tabs towards the bottom, im assuming these are peel off for an adhesive (there did seem to be an adhesive holding the part in place).
based on that link mentioned i would say that cutting is a little extreme, it looks like they cut the board in half, which is definitely NOT how it comes stock.
again i'll report back once i've got the chips. and for under $8 with free shipping i cant really complain even if they dont work out.
The only thing you're actually cutting (electronically) is the ground plane of the board shared by the antenna/radio and the charge port. In short, there's a super low risk of messing anything up, unless you use a sawzall to complete the job.
I assume that it was more cost effective for Samsung to put those items on the same board, but it's a punk move to attach a known replacement part to an antenna that varies by region. Either way, I'm glad to know that the hack is an option but I'd be happier to know that the hack isn't necessary.
iXNyNe said:
i'll report back once i have them
i already took the phone apart just to peek around inside, the part looks just like what's already there. the picture shows some teal/aqua colored tabs towards the bottom, im assuming these are peel off for an adhesive (there did seem to be an adhesive holding the part in place).
based on that link mentioned i would say that cutting is a little extreme, it looks like they cut the board in half, which is definitely NOT how it comes stock.
again i'll report back once i've got the chips. and for under $8 with free shipping i cant really complain even if they dont work out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just wanted to report success. The part from new egg worked and was really easy to swap.
I don't have the right size sim card anymore since switching my primary carry, so I can't test reception, but otherwise everything is working (charging, wifi, Bluetooth, etc)
P.s. I did not modify the item I received (no cutting) and it is a 2.3 where the original I removed was a 2.2. I've saved the 2.2 just in case something comes up.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Thanks, but I'm afraid that we won't know whether the replacement part is a proper replacement until there is a sim-card involved. Reception is the rub (see post below from the board-mod thread).
underhuggare said:
[...]I also replaced the original rev 2.2 with rev 2.3 which fixed the usb port but gave me very unstable and poor reception. [...]
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Click to collapse
iXNyNe said:
Just wanted to report success. The part from new egg worked and was really easy to swap.
I don't have the right size sim card anymore since switching my primary carry, so I can't test reception, but otherwise everything is working (charging, wifi, Bluetooth, etc)
P.s. I did not modify the item I received (no cutting) and it is a 2.3 where the original I removed was a 2.2. I've saved the 2.2 just in case something comes up.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cyril279 said:
Thanks, but I'm afraid that we won't know whether the replacement part is a proper replacement until there is a sim-card involved. Reception is the rub (see post below from the board-mod thread).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll see if I can find a friend with a full size Sim over the next few days and test the reliability. But honestly I'd have to it may be better for people to find a rev 2.2
But for anyone who no longer uses the phone for cell service, the new egg part works great for a cheap and easy charge port replacement.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Hello,
Before i get into the problem, i have technical experience and did not do this on a whim. Had to replace the USB port/microphone chipset in my Galaxy S2 so i bought a new part, and carefully took it apart. I did not have to remove the motherboard since i could work within the confines for installing the new chipset. Did, was careful with the antenna, but after putting it all together, i have slightly lower reception. When i had full bars i now i have three out of four.
Was there anything in special i had to keep in mind when handling the antenna? As far as i know it's a simple lead wire. What can i try apart from simple reseating the connector? Thanks.
Seems i found the source: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1950114&page=4
Will do 'the cutting method' today since after looking more carefully at the chipset the sides really are separate.
Please update this thread if solved
Hi guys. I've been working on a RN2 for a while now and something has been bothering me.
BACKGROUND
___
Basically, it was a side phone I kept in emergency but as you know siblings who can't keep stuff safe, I ended up lending it to him (after having it broken by my other sibling and having to change the screen) and he ALSO broke it, so I changed it again.
___
Now, my problem is the following:
When I was working on the screen, I noticed it wouldn't turn on again, so, after buying aforementioned screen, I placed it and it still didn't turn on. When I tried the heat measuring, I noticed it was heating around the area where you plug the flex cable (black cable with 2 identical plugs that connects the charge module (which I also changed) and the motherboard. The heat is on the side of the MB. I tried to switch the plug backwards but it doesn't work either (and doesn't fit as it is backwards). I bought another flex cable (Theseus' boat much) and it still heated up. So it finally comes to the fact that the issue is in the MB. (I guess ?) Thing is, I don't know what exactly. Does anyone have any idea?
Thanks in advance, I've been on this for a few months now (working it when I have time).
All you can do is look visible damage like a cracked solder joint.
BGA chipsets solder joints can't be examined because they are underneath of them.
Any impact great enough to damage the display or frame could damage the mobo.
Examine your work. Are ground pathways present especially if the phone is "open"?
Look for damaged ribbon cable and connector pins. Try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (hard reboot).
blackhawk said:
All you can do is look visible damage like a cracked solder joint.
BGA chipsets solder joints can't be examined because they are underneath of them.
Any impact great enough to damage the display or frame could damage the mobo.
Examine your work. Are ground pathways present especially if the phone is "open"?
Look for damaged ribbon cable and connector pins. Try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (hard reboot).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI, thanks so much for the quick reply! Unfortunately, I didn't see anything. I might come back to it with a better lens tomorrow for the week end. Would it be necessary to post a picture or two here tomorrow, to have a more professional opinion?
Thanks!
Iliassine said:
HI, thanks so much for the quick reply! Unfortunately, I didn't see anything. I might come back to it with a better lens tomorrow for the week end. Would it be necessary to post a picture or two here tomorrow, to have a more professional opinion?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
I'm afraid though that I contributed little to your cause...
You can try gently flexing the pcb and pressing on components with a pencil, eraser end to try to localize the trouble. The mobo is likely toast though if that's the cause. Mobo diagnostics just aren't available except at the manufacturer's level. Even then most repairs require a hot air station and a high level skillset to execute successfully. A few 3rd party shops probably rework them if there's high enough demand.
Always use a good case to protect internal components as well as the display and frame.
blackhawk said:
You're welcome.
I'm afraid though that I contributed little to your cause...
You can try gently flexing the pcb and pressing on components with a pencil, eraser end to try to localize the trouble. The mobo is likely toast though if that's the cause. Mobo diagnostics just aren't available except at the manufacturer's level. Even then most repairs require a hot air station and a high level skillset to execute successfully. A few 3rd party shops probably rework them if there's high enough demand.
Always use a good case to protect internal components as well as the display and frame.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh no, you did great! You gave me probably more information than I found the last few months! I will try the eraser thing, maybe I'll have some luck. I didn't really touch the board unless the un clip removal of components bands. I will take it down and see if this is what is going on! Thank you. I will keep the thread up to see if someone else has ideas and keep you updated!
Examine the mobo under an excellent high lumen point light source and use optical aids. Stereoscopic ones are best for this. Examine at different angles to look for solder cracks. They tend to be difficult to spot.
Remember out of circuit assemblies like the mobo are sensitive to ESD damage. Use a bare wood surface if no ESD mat/wrist strap are available. Raise room humidity to at least 50%.
Wear cotton not wool or synthetics.
Discharging yourself directly to an earth ground immediately before handling it helps. Nearly every object can retain a static charge to one degree or another even paper. Humidity helps to dissipate it once present but almost any material movement/friction can generate it.