Can anyone provide some feedback of how the camera performs on the Le Max 2/Pro?
This device ticks a lot of boxes, such as metal build, 64GB storage/6GB(!!!) Ram, SD820, finger print scanner, OIS(?) etc etc. But havent heard any great/consistent feedback about the camera.
http://www.letvmart.com/phone/le-max-2-6gb.html
gsmyth said:
Can anyone provide some feedback of how the camera performs on the Le Max 2/Pro?
This device ticks a lot of boxes, such as metal build, 64GB storage/6GB(!!!) Ram, SD820, finger print scanner, OIS(?) etc etc. But havent heard any great/consistent feedback about the camera.
http://www.letvmart.com/phone/le-max-2-6gb.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just loaded some images up for you. Tested it with Indoor Lighting (except the bottle image) and no special options.
With "Indoor" I mean, it's a bright day today but many clouds which act like a natural softbox of the light. Therefore I'm getting pretty natural white light in my room, through 3 big windows of the balkony.
Options used in Stock Camera:
Camera Settings #1
Camera Settings #2
PS4-Controller (Indoor, natural Light through Balkony, 4m away)
Bottle (Indoor, natural Light through Balkony, 10cm away)
Focal Length:
Near, Indoor, natural Light through Balkony, 3m away)
"Mid", same Object and Light
"Far", same Object and Light
I'm putting "Mid" and "Far" in these quotation marks, because the distance isn't really far. The distance between the focused Pixel-Mario, Super Mario and Pink Yoshi is about 10cm each.
Photos are about 4mb big.
Also sorry for the capitalization. German habit...
Greetings,
Katze
katze94 said:
Just loaded some images up for you. Tested it with Indoor Lighting (except the bottle image) and no special options.
With "Indoor" I mean, it's a bright day today but many clouds which act like a natural softbox of the light. Therefore I'm getting pretty natural white light in my room, through 3 big windows of the balkony.
Options used in Stock Camera:
Camera Settings #1
Camera Settings #2
PS4-Controller (Indoor, natural Light through Balkony, 4m away)
Bottle (Indoor, natural Light through Balkony, 10cm away)
Focal Length:
Near, Indoor, natural Light through Balkony, 3m away)
"Mid", same Object and Light
"Far", same Object and Light
I'm putting "Mid" and "Far" in these quotation marks, because the distance isn't really far. The distance between the focused Pixel-Mario, Super Mario and Pink Yoshi is about 10cm each.
Photos are about 4mb big.
Also sorry for the capitalization. German habit...
Greetings,
Katze
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice thanks!
How about the focus speed, is it quick, any problems?
gsmyth said:
Nice thanks!
How about the focus speed, is it quick, any problems?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tested the camera in daily use, as I don't make pictures with my phone that often. All I can say is that I am not disappointed. Much faster than in my Oppo Find 7a. Can't compare with another phone atm. It's pretty quick. Nothing that bothers me
katze94 said:
I haven't tested the camera in daily use, as I don't make pictures with my phone that often. All I can say is that I am not disappointed. Much faster than in my Oppo Find 7a. Can't compare with another phone atm. It's pretty quick. Nothing that bothers me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, Im not a photography expert or pro by any means, but just looking something reliable for quick and easy photos and also options for a bit of tinkering when I feel like it. Ive previously had a Oneplus One, which had a decent camera, currently have a Infocus M810 which is alright outdoors in good light. I think all mobile cameras are going to compared to the S7 as its become the standard to compare against and gives consistent results on auto mode
Ill try to make some outdoor tests tomorrow
photos from STEVE_MARS
http://revolutionlemax2.blogspot.com.es/
You can check out my Le Max 2 in-depth camera review:
The corner softness to the left and to the right is still not solved.
Can you tell me how to adjust exposure without going into camera settings like when I tap to focus?
Related
At the club, at the bar, or just in your mom's basement, nighttime is when you come out to play. Rate this thread to express how the Huawei Mate 9's camera performs when no or low light is present. A higher rating indicates that the camera sensor "sees" lots of light in dim conditions, and that the resulting photos have minimal noise. A higher rating also indicates that when the flash fires, the resulting photo is evenly-lit without any bright spots.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
Black and White Winter shots
Hi, I've been taking some shots with the Monochrome sensor during the white winter in Germany. You can check them out at my blog here:
https://ddienlin.de/en/this and that/Mate-9-Camera.html
So far I'm very happy with the low light performance of the monochrome sensor.
I've also attached a little appetiser
onemandivision said:
Hi, I've been taking some shots with the Monochrome sensor during the white winter in Germany. You can check them out at my blog here:
https://ddienlin.de/en/this and that/Mate-9-Camera.html
So far I'm very happy with the low light performance of the monochrome sensor.
I've also attached a little appetiser
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The low light capability looks quite good. Makes me glad I ordered the Mate 9 although it makes the wait for delivery harder. Please add some more color ones. Is it possible to take both 12 MP and 20 MP colour shots (I guess the 12 MP colour pictures would be post processed using the 20 MP B&W camera to make a 20 MP colour one). Btw, good eye too!
Thanks! Haven't made any good low light shots with colour enabled recently, but there are good ones in this German android forum: http://www.android-hilfe.de/thema/k...-diskussion-frage-huawei-mate-9.802242/page-2
Better than Note5, less noise in the photos
Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk
onemandivision said:
Hi, I've been taking some shots with the Monochrome sensor during the white winter in Germany. You can check them out at my blog here:
https://ddienlin.de/en/this and that/Mate-9-Camera.html
So far I'm very happy with the low light performance of the monochrome sensor.
I've also attached a little appetiser
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Man, those black and whites look good. Wish the color was as sharp/clear
Was there any significant improvement to the low light capability after the update as reported on some sites?
phynicle said:
Was there any significant improvement to the low light capability after the update as reported on some sites?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, low light on stationary objects are very good. camera lowers iso and goes to a very slow shutter. Great detail but will blur easily on anything moving
I used manual -2 step exposure for stars shot. There is a bit of sharpening added in second version of each photo. Bit of S7 Edge style, but not so much oversharpened. In parking shot I have used shutter speed 1/4 sec. so you have to have steady hand and there's basically 50% chance that your photo may be blured due to hand shake and fast object moving to side from you will get blured as well. But for static scene Mate 9 does admirable job, if you can keep your hands steady. Both quick shots I've took today were taken handheld. Color reproduction is excellent for both shots, true to life.
taphius said:
yeah, low light on stationary objects are very good. camera lowers iso and goes to a very slow shutter. Great detail but will blur easily on anything moving
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the case for every camera in low light situation. Either the ISO value will be high with lot of noise, or low ISO with slow shutter speed which is not good if anything is moving in scene.
I think Mate 9 has excellent picture quality both in daylight and low light. Especially dynamic range is outstanding and much better than in my other device iP7Plus.
sobelixtus said:
That's the case for every camera in low light situation. Either the ISO value will be high with lot of noise, or low ISO with slow shutter speed which is not good if anything is moving in scene.
I think Mate 9 has excellent picture quality both in daylight and low light. Especially dynamic range is outstanding and much better than in my other device iP7Plus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Mostly agree, with little addition. Almost every MOBILE camera, except Google Pixel which uses approx 2x faster shutter speed compared to other mobile cameras because of HDR+ and thanks to this it reduces a lot of high ISO noise, kind of. It have to, because it lacks OIS. But pixel is a lot more expensive than Mate 9, even base 5.2 inch model and for me personally it looks ugly, those thick bezels, display ratio, relatively small battery, for that kind of money. Then, on avarage DSLR camera with APS-C sensor and F/1.8 50mm lens one can use about 4-6 times faster shutter speed than Mate 9. So basically where you're shooting 1/17 with Mate 9 you can shot 1/100 with mirrorless DSLR and still get bit better quality pictures out of it with more details preserved and better dynamic range.
D1G1TE said:
I Mostly agree, with little addition. Almost every MOBILE camera, except Google Pixel which uses approx 2x faster shutter speed compared to other mobile cameras because of HDR+ and thanks to this it reduces a lot of high ISO noise, kind of. It have to, because it lacks OIS. But pixel is a lot more expensive than Mate 9, even base 5.2 inch model and for me personally it looks ugly, those thick bezels, display ratio, relatively small battery, for that kind of money. Then, on avarage DSLR camera with APS-C sensor and F/1.8 50mm lens one can use about 4-6 times faster shutter speed than Mate 9. So basically where you're shooting 1/17 with Mate 9 you can shot 1/100 with mirrorless DSLR and still get bit better quality pictures out of it with more details preserved and better dynamic range.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course. I am only talking about mobile phone cameras and not even thinking about DSLRs in the same sentence
It is obvious that mobile phone cameras with much smaller sensors cannot compete with DSLR in low light scenario. In good day light both can produce well balanced shots with good dynamic range, but still the edge is on DSLR side
This may be obvious, but a tripod makes a massive difference for low light on this phone.
Coolbananas said:
This may be obvious, but a tripod makes a massive difference for low light on this phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but from real life scenario, how many times one carries tripod in his/her pocket? If you're already carrying tripod there's not big deal to carry mirrorless DSLR, Sony has nice low profile lens for example.
I personally have this tripod from Polaroid https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/789591-REG/Polaroid_PLTRI42_42_TRAVEL_TRIPOD.html which is extremely portable and can fit into jacket inner pocket. But it isn't exactly comfortable to wear it all the time with your phone during night.
Some fireworks, using light graffiti, light painting mode. I've found out to be best for fireworks. Handheld.
Camera Bug
Today I had a very annoying bug. Given that it snowed I wanted to do a series of photographs. I tried several ways: Monochrome Photo HDR and Night Photo. Bug occurred when I tried to take pictures in '' Night Photo '' and manifests this: I press the button for shooting, display show the message "processing '' and stuck so for several dozen seconds after the image made black. I closed camera app, I opened it again black picture still. I had to close camera app, delete from ram, wait few seconds and work again. I repeted 3 times same results. Please try it and tell me if your phone do the same. I have B138. Thanks. Sorry for my english.
Dual cameras as huawei mate 9
smartphone with dual cameras as huawei mate 9,you can choose sumvier.
Night Mode with Tripod, compressed via social network apps.
3200 ISO impressive...
From hand or tripod?
And what tripod do you recommend?
Wysłane z mojego SM-N920C przy użyciu Tapatalka
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Xebeck said:
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
thesoupthief said:
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Xebeck said:
.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
thesoupthief said:
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Thanks...
I didn't wanna run out of my replacement period and then realise that I should have acted
Yes, this is not a problem, a reviewer showed how the camera reacted when photo was taken from two different angles, at one angle green color was dominant while on different angle it was not.
Xebeck said:
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Thank you for the explanation and the effort
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the explanation! I'm having some problems in places with that type of lights but not when pointing to them, just taking a normal picture, same picture can have that yellow tint, or not, just changing from one camera to the other one or moving around the photo a little bit....
Has anyone else noticed a change in colour/saturation between different lens modes?
For instance my wide angle lens seems more washed out than the main 1.0x lens.
Kind regards
Yes
i dont even know how to utilize each lens hahahs
This would be normal in my opinion. You have 3 different lenses of different quality (the main 1x being superior). You also have different zooms which means the auto white balance will probably be different since the scene on each is different. You also have a different amount of light entering each meaning different iso and/or exposure time.
This will all have a slight impact on the output of the picture. To get the closest look you would probably need to shoot raw.
That said, take a look at the 3 pictures I took of some frame in the room I'm staying at. I find the 3 to be relatively comparable (all taken in auto, master AI off). The 0.6x white balance is a bit off. It also look a bit blurry since the crop for the frame is much more exaggerated than the other 2.
I've noticed some white balance difference when taking shots outside mostly between the 1x and 3x lenses but like I said, sort of expected outcome. If you want to make sure it looks almost identical, you'll have to start playing with manual white balance, pro mode and possibly raw.
A real life example of 2 shots I took recently on a trip. One with the 0.6x, other with 1x. In this case, I'd say the 0.6x colors are slightly more vivid. Again, that's just the auto post processing of the phone based on overall scene exposure (these were also auto, ai off).
In lightroom I could probably get both to look identical even having shot them in jpg format.
Anyway, hopefully this all helps?
PhilMorin said:
A real life example of 2 shots I took recently on a trip. One with the 0.6x, other with 1x. In this case, I'd say the 0.6x colors are slightly more vivid. Again, that's just the auto post processing of the phone based on overall scene exposure (these were also auto, ai off).
In lightroom I could probably get both to look identical even having shot them in jpg format.
Anyway, hopefully this all helps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's brilliant thanks alot. Makes a lot of sense. I'm still getting used to this camera and have taken a few great photos so far but seems to be a lot of trial and error finding the best mode for a certain situation.
Nice pictures by the way.
Thanks again.
My tip to you: I stay in auto mode, ai turned off for almost all pictures only switching to portrait or aperture when needed.
I sometimes adjust exposure in high contrast scenes by tapping where I want to focus and then dragging the little sun icon up or down. I've almost never used pro mode as I was usually happy with the outcome.
Hello. Can someone reveal the secrets of getting usable photos when shooting in harsh (bright sunny day on the beach) light conditions? I found that Xperia 1 III is handling it pretty bad regardless of my Manual settings in PhotoPro mode. Cameras are just going crazy in these conditions and photos come out underexposed, with weird colours or oversaturated. Other much cheaper phones are doing better job than Xperia in the same conditions.
The automatic mode might be better. Sony's 'pro' modes are silly toys for marketing.
The real pro solution is a reflector, a high power flash, wait for a cloud to soften the light, or only shoot at dusk or dawn.
Other phones with better camera apps will sometimes produce strange artifacts applying HDR on people. It even outs illumination by the white sun, the cyan sky, and all nearby objects reflecting light onto the person. The camera app can only guess how to fix that collage of colors.
With only a cellphone, close-ups with the onboard flash or a soft folding reflector are your best bet.
kevinmcmurtrie said:
The automatic mode might be better. Sony's 'pro' modes are silly toys for marketing.
The real pro solution is a reflector, a high power flash, wait for a cloud to soften the light, or only shoot at dusk or dawn.
Other phones with better camera apps will sometimes produce strange artifacts applying HDR on people. It even outs illumination by the white sun, the cyan sky, and all nearby objects reflecting light onto the person. The camera app can only guess how to fix that collage of colors.
With only a cellphone, close-ups with the onboard flash or a soft folding reflector are your best bet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That silly toy pro mode made PRO photographers completely impressed. They said this is the phone that everyone should buy who's into photographing because it's a perfect replacement for your camera, if you don't have it with you, that fits in your pocket. Someone went out with just the Xperia 1 III to see if he can get those shots he used to get with his professional apparatus. And he could! You can shoot incredible photos if you know how to use it. I had no problems so far, I'm not a pro, never was into photographing, but I can make really good shots without any difficulties.
The Xperia 1 III Photo Pro app is toy with a serious looking skin. It doesn't have focus or clipping overlays like the manual modes of other phones. At best, you can digital-zoom in to adjust for the center of the image then zoom back out. Whatever you're trying to photograph is gone before you're done mashing your fingers against its clunky interface. The only worse app is Cinema Pro.
I own an a7R 3. There's absolutely no condition where the Xperia 1 III would be comparable.
Are you sure that you have the HDR on? In the manual mode you can select D-R OFF, DRO AUTO and HDR AUTO
kevinmcmurtrie said:
The Xperia 1 III Photo Pro app is toy with a serious looking skin. It doesn't have focus or clipping overlays like the manual modes of other phones. At best, you can digital-zoom in to adjust for the center of the image then zoom back out. Whatever you're trying to photograph is gone before you're done mashing your fingers against its clunky interface. The only worse app is Cinema Pro.
I own an a7R 3. There's absolutely no condition where the Xperia 1 III would be comparable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think Xperia 1 III can't beat even the very first RX100. It's unfair comparison anyway. Smartphone is not a dedicated camera.
I've had the phone for a couple of days now ant the battery life is stellar but the camera is such a disappointment. Compared with the S22 Ultra it lets in less light and the pictures are overall darker. Same goes for low light pictures, the S22 Ultra is consistently brighter in all scenarios. It reminds me of the difference between my iPhone 13Pro and my S22 Ultra last year the former always capturing more light. To be honest I was expecting the opposite to be true with all the reviewers clamoring about the S23 Ultra's better low life performance and camera overall. I'm really not impressed so far.
Anyone else still in possession of both phones? What's your experience been like? Any suggestions? Did I miss something in the setting? So many questions
Clear cam data, try a hard reboot and clear system cache. Try in safe mode.
Carefully go through -all- the cam settings and options.
Return it if you don't like it for a cash refund.
Are you using the 12 MP default option instead of 200 MP? The 12 MP is said to give the best results on colors and contrast when shooting in low light.
"Binning pixels like this increases their effective size, allowing them to gather more light and detail. So the ISOCELL HP2 can bin every four pixels to effectively make them 1.2μm in size and produce 50-megapixel images, or bin 16 for even larger 2.4μm pixels and 12.5-megapixel images."
blackhawk said:
Clear cam data, try a hard reboot and clear system cache. Try in safe mode.
Carefully go through -all- the cam settings and options.
Return it if you don't like it for a cash refund.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Done. No dice. The camera still lets in less light on the S23U. In the settings I noticed that Camera assistant is missing. Must be a One UI 5.1 thing. Do you also have the S22 and S23 Ultra? Is that the reason for your suggestions? Are you seeing different results?
I'm upgrading from S22U (SnapDragon) to S23U and the few comparison shots I've taken I found that the S23U does capture slightly more detail, but there's not much difference at all. Remember this is the initial firmware for the phone though so the camera performance should hopefully receive some updates over time.
p.dixon0 said:
I'm upgrading from S22U (SnapDragon) to S23U and the few comparison shots I've taken I found that the S23U does capture slightly more detail, but there's not much difference at all. Remember this is the initial firmware for the phone though so the camera performance should hopefully receive some updates over time.
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For sure. I totally get that. The thing is all the reviewers said that the s23u captured more light and that has yet to materialize for me. They were using the same software. To your point, the software should get better but I feel as though this is a hardware thing. But I'm no expert.
Paul_Deemer said:
Are you using the 12 MP default option instead of 200 MP? The 12 MP is said to give the best results on colors and contrast when shooting in low light.
"Binning pixels like this increases their effective size, allowing them to gather more light and detail. So the ISOCELL HP2 can bin every four pixels to effectively make them 1.2μm in size and produce 50-megapixel images, or bin 16 for even larger 2.4μm pixels and 12.5-megapixel images."
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If by 12MP you mean 3:4 absolutely. Didn't change anything.
mrnovanova said:
If by 12MP you mean 3:4 absolutely. Didn't change anything.
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I don't have my phone yet but there is a setting somewhere that you can choose between 200 MP, 50 MP or 12 MP in settings.
mrnovanova said:
Done. No dice. The camera still lets in less light on the S23U. In the settings I noticed that Camera assistant is missing. Must be a One UI 5.1 thing. Do you also have the S22 and S23 Ultra? Is that the reason for your suggestions? Are you seeing different results?
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Try shooting raws, at least 3 f/stops more exposure and WB correction. Downside is the post processing effort/time required.
The issue may simply be the firmware instruction set. Samsung is notorious for dialing things in after the release. I'm still happily running N10+'s on Pie and Q. I demand a dual drive capable device. I'm not pleased at all by the newer Android versions from Gookill either.
The dead zone between pixels on such a small sensor with such a huge pixel count is concerning as is the individual pixel microlense quality. Even 20mp is pushing it. Canon full frame sensors are maxed out at about 26mp.
Regardless of the camera learning it's capabilities, limitations and shooting effectively within those boundaries is what grabs keepers.
I haven't had issues so far with the camera outputting dark images. I've tried some shots inside at night (with main cam), shots outside, shots with main 12, 50 and 200mp modes, 3x, 10x. So far I'm pretty satisfied and also noticed a huge improvement in processing especially for 3x and 10x outside which, on my s21 ultra, I was always doing those shots with gcam. Now I could actually consider using stock, though I need to test way more extensively to know for sure.
Might help if you provide us with some pictures of the issue you're having, maybe side by side with your s22 if you still have it.
Hello, please update camera software-color are
oversaturated and unreal ( for example Red color
at most), reduce processing and sharpening. My
Samsung Note 10plus has better results! Thanks
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Is it the camera or the display?
Check/compare images on a properly color calibrated monitor... yeah, it's a can of worms.
PhilMorin said:
I haven't had issues so far with the camera outputting dark images. I've tried some shots inside at night (with main cam), shots outside, shots with main 12, 50 and 200mp modes, 3x, 10x. So far I'm pretty satisfied and also noticed a huge improvement in processing especially for 3x and 10x outside which, on my s21 ultra, I was always doing those shots with gcam. Now I could actually consider using stock, though I need to test way more extensively to know for sure.
Might help if you provide us with some pictures of the issue you're having, maybe side by side with your s22 if you still have
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I'll try tomorrow
PhilMorin said:
iI'll t.
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mrnovanova said:
I'll try tomorrow
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In low light hold the phone as still as possible.
Use a nearby fixed object to brace it or yourself on when possible.
Using the spen as a remote shutter release will help too.
mrnovanova said:
I'll try tomorrow! This app is so wonky for me. I'll try tomorrow and post the pics.
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blackhawk said:
In low light hold the phone as still as possible.
Use a nearby fixed object to brace it or yourself on when possible.
Using the spen as a remote shutter release will help too.
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I got a Benro Tripod with a Phone attachment mounted on top. Gonna try that when I get the Ultra Monday doing some dark photos and using the pen as remote shutter release. Will also do same with the S22U before sending it back to Samsung.
PhilMorin said:
I haven't had issues so far with the camera outputting dark images. I've tried some shots inside at night (with main cam), shots outside, shots with main 12, 50 and 200mp modes, 3x, 10x. So far I'm pretty satisfied and also noticed a huge improvement in processing especially for 3x and 10x outside which, on my s21 ultra, I was always doing those shots with gcam. Now I could actually consider using stock, though I need to test way more extensively to know for sure.
Might help if you provide us with some pictures of the issue you're having, maybe side by side with your s22 if you still have it.
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Okay I think this worked. I'll let you guess which is which.
Edit: @blackhawk was spot on. They were both from the S22u. I have such a hard time with the app. I re-uploaded the correct pics. Left S23u Right S22u.
Paul_Deemer said:
I got a Benro Tripod with a Phone attachment mounted on top. Gonna try that when I get the Ultra Monday doing some dark photos and using the pen as remote shutter release. Will also do same with the S22U before sending it back to Samsung.
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I loathe tripods. Learned to improvise and shoot in low light with my Canon Pro cam 15 years ago.
I'll use anything at any height or angle I can reach as a brace; with practice you can land one of a kind keepers no tripod can grab.
Smart phones are poor shooting platforms; light weight so there's little stabilizing inertia and lousy handholds. Poor shutter release and controls. However they lend themselves to bracing well enough. In a case you don't have to worry much about what you brace it on...
The traditional elbows in, wide staggered foot stance, hold your breath works too. Shooting technique counts...
mrnovanova said:
Okay I think this worked. I'll let you guess which is which.
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Poor example; different shooting heights skews the results. The AF lock on point is also different so the bottle's print is out of focus in the one shot. Light metering and colors look near identical in both.
blackhawk said:
I loathe tripods. Learned to improvise and shoot in low light with my Canon Pro cam 15 years ago.
I'll use anything at any height or angle I can reach as a brace; with practice you can land one of a kind keepers no tripod can grab.
Smart phones are poor shooting platforms; light weight so there's little stabilizing inertia and lousy handholds. Poor shutter release and controls. However they lend themselves to bracing well enough. In a case you don't have to worry much about what you brace it on...
The traditional elbows in, wide staggered foot stance, hold your breath works too. Shooting technique counts...
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That might work for Photos but not very well for videos especially when you are zooming in 20x. Here's is an example where I have S22U on a tripod and zoom in on a waterfall from across the canyon and pan up and down. No way you gonna do it that smoothly holding it in your hands even braced. So for videos I love the tripod. It's the very lightest one they make and perfect for cell phones or light cameras. Change YouTube resolution to 1080p for best viewing.