I've seen some apps in the Play Store purporting to fix bad parts of the battery (e.g., this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rx.batteryrepair). I am quite sceptical about the ability of an application to fix battery hardware issues in this way, but I am open to persuasion! Are these apps for real, or are they placebos, or worse?
@DarthJabba9 Almost hilarious what is being claimed here:laugh: The phones battery is a single cell and is is not like a NiCad battery that gets memory effect - it does not need to go through a process that is a graphical knock-off of the old defrag utilities in Windows. The graphic is totally irrelevant and nonsensical to any sort of battery conditioning.
The best thing you can do for your battery is not to run it to dead flat too often and not leave it charging after it reaches its full charge voltage (which may be different to the 100% charge indication). Some phones (like our RN2) overcharge the battery to increase the claimed Amp-hour capacity - this reduces battery life. The charged voltage should be slightly under 4.4V, not the 4.44V our charger software is set to.
jajk said:
@DarthJabba9 Almost hilarious what is being claimed here:laugh: The phones battery is a single cell and is is not like a NiCad battery that gets memory effect - it does not need to go through a process that is a graphical knock-off of the old defrag utilities in Windows. The graphic is totally irrelevant and nonsensical to any sort of battery conditioning.
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Exactly my thoughts.
@DarthJabba9 and all,
Some interesting scientific facts:
Lithium batteries do not care if they are never fully charged or discharged and do not benefit from "conditioning" cycles.
4.23V is the technically correct fully charged voltage for the LiPo battery chemistry found in phones.
At 4.3V, the battery gains 5% in capacity but battery life is halved.
There is no rating for battery life or capacity at 4.44V since this is well above the accepted maximum charged voltage and risks spontaneous combustion.
jajk said:
@DarthJabba9 and all,
Some interesting scientific facts:
Lithium batteries do not care if they are never fully charged or discharged and do not benefit from "conditioning" cycles.
4.23V is the technically correct fully charged voltage for the LiPo battery chemistry found in phones.
At 4.3V, the battery gains 5% in capacity but battery life is halved.
There is no rating for battery life or capacity at 4.44V since this is well above the accepted maximum charged voltage and risks spontaneous combustion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So basically, our fast charger is killing off our battery? How can we change our charger software?
And what is the received wisdom on these settings:
* Disable HW overlays
* Force GPU rendering
@DarthJabba9 A long, long time ago, in the land of Froyo there was an elf called....... Anyway, these "tweaks" are mindlessly applied long since the original perceived need has passed. Still have 100% effectiveness in placebo strength so serve a need in the community
Ha! Another placebo! So why have they kept these in the developer options ?
@jajk I had absolutely no clue out phones could overcharge the battery like that. Like @DarthJabba9 said, is there a way to change our charging software?
Thank you very much.
Related
Updated and simplified version here : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=3846897#post3846897
I've been around this forum for some time now and I have noticed one thing that is spelled in all sub-forums: BATTERY LIFE
So I thought of pulling some info together that is relevant to our Raphs (Li-ion batteries), taken from www.batteryuniversity.com.
Hope you find it helpful and understand better behaviour of your battery
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About the Author
Isidor Buchmann is the founder and CEO of Cadex Electronics Inc., in Vancouver BC.
Mr. Buchmann has a background in radio communications and has studied the behavior of rechargeable batteries in practical, everyday applications for two decades. Award winning author of many articles and books on batteries, Mr. Buchmann has delivered technical papers around the world.
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"If possible, do not discharge lithium-based batteries too deeply. Instead, recharge more often."
Lithium-ion is a low maintenance battery, an advantage that most other chemistries cannot claim. There is no memory and no scheduled cycling is required to prolong the battery's life. In addition, the self-discharge is less than half compared to nickel-cadmium, making lithium-ion well suited for modern fuel gauge applications.
Charging
There is only one way to charge lithium-based batteries. The so-called 'miracle chargers', which claim to restore and prolong batteries, do not exist for lithium chemistries. Neither does super-fast charging apply. Manufacturers of lithium-ion cells have very strict guidelines in charge procedures and the pack should be charged as per the manufacturers "typical" charge technique.
Lithium-ion is a very clean system and does not need priming as nickel-based batteries do. The 1st charge is no different to the 5th or the 50th charge. Stickers instructing to charge the battery for 8 hours or more for the first time may be a leftover from the nickel battery days.
Most cells are charged to 4.20 volts with a tolerance of +/?0.05V/cell. Charging only to 4.10V reduced the capacity by 10% but provides a longer service life. Newer cell are capable of delivering a good cycle count with a charge to 4.20 volts per cell.
A lithium-ion battery provides 300-500 discharge/charge cycles. The battery prefers a partial rather than a full discharge. Frequent full discharges should be avoided when possible. Instead, charge the battery more often or use a larger battery. There is no concern of memory when applying unscheduled charges.
Batteries live longer if treated in a gentle manner. High charge voltages, excessive charge rate and extreme load conditions have a negative effect on battery life. The longevity is often a direct result of the environmental stresses applied. The following guidelines suggest ways to prolong battery life.
The time at which the battery stays at 4.20/cell should be as short as possible. Prolonged high voltage promotes corrosion, especially at elevated temperatures. Spinel is less sensitive to high voltage.
The lower charge current reduces the time in which the cell resides at 4.20V. A 0.5C charge only adds marginally to the charge time over 1C because the topping charge will be shorter. A high current charge tends to push the voltage into voltage limit prematurely.
Do not discharge lithium-ion too deeply. Instead, charge it frequently. Lithium-ion does not have memory problems like nickel-cadmium batteries. No deep discharges are needed for conditioning.
Do not charge lithium-ion at or below freezing temperature. Although accepting charge, an irreversible plating of metallic lithium will occur that compromises the safety of the pack.
Not only does a lithium-ion battery live longer with a slower charge rate; moderate discharge rates also helps.
Discharge of the lithium-ion battery is 5% in the first 24 hours after charge, and then reduces to 1% to 2% per month thereafter. The safety circuit adds about 3%. High cycle count and aging have little effect on the self-discharge of lithium-based batteries.
The battery industry is making incremental capacity gains of 8-10% per year. This trend is expected to continue. This, however, is a far cry from Moore's Law that specifies a doubling of transistors on a chip every 18 to 24 months. Translating this increase to a battery would mean a doubling of capacity every two years. Instead of two years, lithium-ion has doubled its energy capacity in 10 years.
Although lithium-ion is memory-free in terms of performance deterioration, batteries with fuel gauges exhibit what engineers refer to as "digital memory". Here is the reason: Short discharges with subsequent recharges do not provide the periodic calibration needed to synchronize the fuel gauge with the battery's state-of-charge. A deliberate full discharge and recharge every 30 charges corrects this problem. Letting the battery run down to the cut-off point in the equipment will do this. If ignored, the fuel gauge will become increasingly less accurate.
Despite its overall advantages, lithium-ion has its drawbacks. It is fragile and requires a protection circuit to maintain safe operation. Built into each pack, the protection circuit limits the peak voltage of each cell during charge and prevents the cell voltage from dropping too low on discharge. In addition, the cell temperature is monitored to prevent temperature extremes. The maximum charge and discharge current on most packs are is limited to between 1C and 2C. With these precautions in place, the possibility of metallic lithium plating occurring due to overcharge is virtually eliminated.
The worst condition is keeping a fully charged battery at elevated temperatures, which is the case with running laptop batteries. If used on main power, the battery inside a laptop will only last for 12-18 months. I must hasten to explain that the pack does not die suddenly but begins with reduced run-times.
The voltage level to which the cells are charged also plays an important role to longevity. For safety reasons, most lithium-ion cannot exceed 4.20 volts per cell. While a higher voltage boosts capacity, the disadvantage is lower cycle life.
"how deep can a battery be discharged and still achieve maximum service life?" There are no definite answers. Batteries are like us humans. Suppose we ate all the vegetables our mother heaped on our plates and do our daily exercise, would we life longer? Perhaps. But by how much, no one will know. Batteries lose capacity as part of aging, cycling and exposure to heat. Nickel-cadmium also loses capacity due to lack of exercise because of memory.
Some lithium-ion batteries fail due to excessive low discharge. If discharged below 2.5 volts per cell, the internal safety circuit opens and the battery appears dead.
Aging is a concern with most lithium-ion batteries and many manufacturers remain silent about this issue. Some capacity deterioration is noticeable after one year, whether the battery is in use or not.
Lithium-ion batteries lose capacity through cell oxidation, a process that occurs naturally during use and aging. The typical life span of lithium-ion is 2-3 years under normal use. Cool storage a 40% charge minimizes aging. An aged lithium-ion cannot be restored with cycling.
Shorted Cells
Manufacturers are often unable to explain why some cells develop high electrical leakage or an electrical short while still relatively new. The suspected culprit is foreign particles that contaminate the cells during manufacturing.
Cell reversal caused by deep discharging also contributes to shorted cells.Specified to deliver 100% capacity when new, the battery should be replaced when the capacity drops to below 80% of the nominal rating.
The self-discharge on all battery chemistries increase at higher temperatures. Typically, the rate doubles with every 10°C (18°F). A noticeable energy loss occurs if a battery is left in a hot vehicle.
Premature voltage cut-off
Not all stored battery power can be fully utilized. Some equipment cuts off before the designated end-of-discharge voltage is reached and precious battery energy remains unused. Applications demanding high current bursts push the battery voltage to an early cut-off. This is especially visible on batteries with elevated internal resistance. The voltage recovers when the load is removed and the battery appears normal. Discharging such a battery on a moderate load with a battery analyzer to the respective end-of-discharge threshold will sometimes produce residual capacity readings of 30% and higher.
Counterfeit cell phone batteries (clone batteries)
In the search for low-cost battery replacements, consumers may inadvertently purchase clone cell phone batteries that do not include an approved protection circuit. Lithium-ion packs require a protection circuit to shut off the power source if the charger malfunctions and keep on charging, or if the pack is put under undue stress (electrical short). Overheating and 'venting with flame' can be the result of such strain.
Cell phone manufacturers strongly advise customers to replace the battery with an approved brand. Failing to do so may void the warranty. Counterfeit cell phone batteries have become visible since the beginning of 2003 when the world was being flooded with cheap replacement batteries from Asia.
Cell phone manufacturers act out of genuine concern for safety rather than using scare tactics to persuade customers to buy their own accessories. They do not object to third party suppliers in offering batteries and chargers as long as the products are well built, safe and functioning. The buyer can often not distinguish between an original and a counterfeit battery because the label may appear bona fide.
Caution should also be exercised in purchasing counterfeit chargers. Some units do not terminate the battery correctly and rely on the battery's internal protection circuit to cut off the power when fully charged. Precise full-charge termination and a working protection circuit are needed for the safe use of the lithium-ion battery.
A large number of lithium-ion batteries for cell phones are being discarded under the warranty return policy. Some failed batteries are sent to service centers or the manufacturer, where they are refurbished. Studies show that 80%-90% of the returned batteries can be repaired and returned to service.
© Copyright 2003 - 2005 Isidor Buchmann
Thanks, very good read.
It explains why when flashing a new ROM I felt that I needed to discharge and recharge fully the battery to have an accurate reading.
lots of dispelled rumors and myths ! thanks for the post , its really informative .
i really do hope that capacity goes up though , it would be cool to not have to charge for like 4 days or something crazy lol.
excellent read!
now if I may ask, how dense cells can be packed into a battery? this relates to the min size versus max capacity of a Li-on battery pack.
There's also an issue with the device not reading the battery accurately.
I've read somewhere that full discharge once every 3 months or so is helpful not because of the chemistry, but because how the device reads/calculates full capacity.
g2tl said:
There's also an issue with the device not reading the battery accurately.
I've read somewhere that full discharge once every 3 months or so is helpful not because of the chemistry, but because how the device reads/calculates full capacity.
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Click to collapse
I would think that would only apply to the clone batteries.
Originally Posted by g2tl
There's also an issue with the device not reading the battery accurately.
I've read somewhere that full discharge once every 3 months or so is helpful not because of the chemistry, but because how the device reads/calculates full capacity.
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Kraize said:
I would think that would only apply to the clone batteries.
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Click to collapse
sorry. disagree. at least from my experience, both original and 'clone' alike need full discharge every now and then.
side note: with overwhelming numbers of batteries or any other components being made in China, who would safely label one is 'original' and the other is 'clone'? God knows.
BumAround said:
sorry. disagree. at least from my experience, both original and 'clone' alike need full discharge every now and then.
side note: with overwhelming numbers of batteries or any other components being made in China, who would safely label one is 'original' and the other is 'clone'? God knows.
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10/4...if I just may quote what is written in post 1: "..A deliberate full discharge and recharge every 30 charges corrects this problem ("memory" effect). Letting the battery run down to the cut-off point in the equipment will do this. If ignored, the fuel gauge will become increasingly less accurate..."
BumAround said:
excellent read!
now if I may ask, how dense cells can be packed into a battery? this relates to the min size versus max capacity of a Li-on battery pack.
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Click to collapse
From what I understand density is controled by proper voltage (3,7 in our case). With different type of batteries you can do "shock" therapy and temporarly overload the current of charging to reformat cells. So I guess it depends on chemical mix in your particular battery, because as we've learned those chemicals are being replaced with different ones and very often by manufaturers and to us consumers it might seem we use same batteries, but technically speaking exact same batteries bought in different places may perform differently just because of what's inside. Not speaking of aging effect which is the worst out of all batteries (process starts right after battery is manufactured and no matter if is used or not, therefore li-ion batteries are kind of like vegetables-not good if too old )
bauerpavel said:
10/4...if I just may quote what is written in post 1: "..A deliberate full discharge and recharge every 30 charges corrects this problem ("memory" effect). Letting the battery run down to the cut-off point in the equipment will do this. If ignored, the fuel gauge will become increasingly less accurate..."
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Click to collapse
hmm, I must have skipped over that part while scrolling down.
Thx for the confirmation.
Easy way to discharge battery quickly, Flash your phone 4 or 5 times in a row, always seems to nuke my phone when testing ROMs while cooking!!
Great post
This should be made one of the stickies, not in the ROM thread though, maybe in the accessory thread?
gmgonzal said:
This should be made one of the stickies, not in the ROM thread though, maybe in the accessory thread?
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Click to collapse
I'm planning on moving it to just "Raphael" section....as for the stickie, that's not my call
PS:Thread moved to more "appropriate" section "Raphael" rather than "ROM Development"
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=518861 ....sorry for confusion!
Admin please close this thread.
Not too fast...
B4PJS said:
Easy way to discharge battery quickly...
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The article mentioned it was wise to avoid stressful discharges as well as fast charging.
Not only does a lithium-ion battery live longer with a slower charge rate; moderate discharge rates also helps
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It makes the case for those .5 car chargers and charging from the USB port…David.
Why "deep battery cycling" or "conditioning," is bad for your battery
In summary, "conditioning" your battery is only good for calibrating the tools which predict how long your battery will last.
I.e. people seem to be recommending that new phones should be completely discharged a few times and then fully recharged. In some cases, people are recommending that the phones be left discharged for long periods of time before recharging. THIS IS A BAD IDEA AND WILL NOT HELP BATTERY LIFE.
Again, you can do this to calibrate the battery monitor, but this will not help the battery itself.
Here's a quote from wikipedia *since I am a new user I can't directly link but go to en(DOT)wikipedia(DOT)org/wiki/Li-ion_battery
Like many rechargeable batteries, lithium-ion batteries should be charged early and often. However, if they are not used for a long time, they should be brought to a charge level of around 40%–60%
Lithium-ion batteries should not be frequently discharged fully and recharged ("deep-cycled"), but this may be necessary after about every 30th recharge to recalibrate any electronic charge monitor (e.g. a battery meter). This allows the monitoring electronics to more accurately estimate battery charge.[27] This has nothing to do with the memory effect.
Li-ion batteries should never be depleted to below their minimum voltage, 2.4 V to 3.0 V per cell.
Li-ion batteries should be kept cool. Ideally they are stored in a refrigerator. Aging will take its toll much faster at high temperatures. The high temperatures found in cars cause lithium-ion batteries to degrade rapidly.
Li-ion batteries should not be frozen [50] (most lithium-ion battery electrolytes freeze at approximately −40 °C; however, this is much colder than the lowest temperature reached by household freezers).
Li-ion batteries should be bought only when needed, because the aging process begins as soon as the battery is manufactured.[27]
When using a notebook computer running from fixed line power over extended periods, consider removing the battery[51] and storing it in a cool place so that it is not affected by the heat produced by the computer.
Hope this helps someone.
Thank you DarkDvr, wikipedia credits to him
Also, feel free to read up at batteryuniversity(DOT)com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
*again, this is my first post so it wont let me link directly.
Good read. Al though, this is XDA after all and you will be flamed for using wikipedia as as a source. Just giving you heads up.
Lejjvi said:
Good read. Al though, this is XDA after all and you will be flamed for using wikipedia as as a source. Just giving you heads up.
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"battery conditioning" is only bad if you do it all the time and drain it completely dead often...
Lithium ion batteries don't really need this...
And should only be done if you think you have faulty battery stats due to flahing new software or roms....
We all know this and the people that don't now know.. thanks op for informing the uninformed!
sent from a 3devo
You need to condition it for the phones software as well... Otherwise it will shut off before the battery is actually dead. But yes, you shouldn't do it all the time.
People confuse why I needs to be done is all.
Yeah, should change the title. It's misleading.
Sent from my HTC Evo 3D.
there is a diffrence between a deep cycle and a normal cycle.they are only resistant to developing a memory.
Yes, I know this xda, but this after reading some of the multiple battery life threads it seemed like there was some misinformation floating around. I mean, I know batteries are the cheapest part of the phone and easy to replace, but still. No point in going through all the trouble of multiple deep cycles when it actually does harm to the battery.
Also, I wonder what the people with 2 batteries do, and how this affects the battery meter. Or, if you switch to a higher capacity battery. At what point does the unit recalibrate itself?
So i was browsing the Nexus S forum and Google+ and found an interesting post by one of Android/Google engineers : https://plus.google.com/u/0/105051985738280261832/posts/FV3LVtdVxPT
Today's myth debunking:
"The battery indicator in the status/notification bar is a reflection of the batterystats.bin file in the data/system/ directory."
No, it does not.
This file is used to maintain, across reboots, low-level data about the kinds of operations the device and your apps are doing between battery changes. That is, it is solely used to compute the blame for battery usage shown in the "Battery Use" UI in settings.
That is, it has deeply significant things like "app X held a wake lock for 2 minutes" and "the screen was on at 60% brightness for 10 minutes."
It has no impact on the current battery level shown to you.
It has no impact on your battery life.
Deleting it is not going to do anything to make your more device more fantastic and wonderful... well, unless you have some deep hatred for seeing anything shown in the battery usage UI. And anyway, it is reset every time you unplug from power with a relatively full charge (thus why the battery usage UI data resets at that point), so this would be a much easier way to make it go away.
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Click to collapse
The whole idea of erasing that file having any effect on battery life is pure superstition and wishful thinking. The battery usage UI describes what your device has been doing that has been consuming battery; it doesn't change how the device is using the battery.
You want to "refresh" your battery stats? Charge your phone. When you unplug it again, the device knows it's at full charge (because the battery firmware says so), so the stats tracking treats that as a known milestone for reporting purposes.
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interesting!
I never wipe my batterystatus.bin till now!
I also think it doesn't doing anything but never knew that reson thanks for sharing
Does this mean that calliberating your battery has NO effect? I've seen so many devs themselves recommending it. (ofcourse I might be understanding this whole thing wrong)
myozeus said:
Does this mean that calliberating your battery has NO effect? I've seen so many devs themselves recommending it. (ofcourse I might be understanding this whole thing wrong)
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well, franciscofranco, our kernel 'god', didn't wipe batterystats.bin in his life before. however i always flash things on a full charge just in case
well when you calibrate the battery you only del this file.
this is a one second task
on a macbookpro the calibartion of the battery takes a long time.
so I would not really call this calibration at all.
Thanks for the info...
It'll save time for the people like me ;-)
i never used that option ever
i have very good battery life xd
cekuhnen said:
well when you calibrate the battery you only del this file.
this is a one second task
on a macbookpro the calibartion of the battery takes a long time.
so I would not really call this calibration at all.
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Click to collapse
A Laptop battery has many cells, and, once a while, they get different charges among them, that's why you have to fully discharge your laptop battery once a month, to get them all to the same amount of charge.
Since our phones have one cell in their batterys, I don't know if it's really necessary to calibrate them.
myozeus said:
Does this mean that calliberating your battery has NO effect? I've seen so many devs themselves recommending it. (ofcourse I might be understanding this whole thing wrong)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no. caliberating does have good effects. but caliberating does not mean deleting the file. it means charging full n emptying it full n charging full again...
harshdoshi25 said:
no. caliberating does have good effects. but caliberating does not mean deleting the file. it means charging full n emptying it full n charging full again...
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Actually, lithium ion batteries do not need calibration. Period.
The elements its comprised of have no "cell memory" and the battery firmware is hardcoded with the knowledge of what a full charge should be. Anytime you drain your battery past normal thresholds, it just puts extra wear and tear on the cells and reduces its ability to hold a full charge. By intentionally draining the battery in one sitting, all you're doing is stressing the battery and causing the problem you're trying to correct.
Long story short: Don't calibrate; it just hurts your battery.
Now, if you had a NiMH or an older LiPoly battery, I'd say go right ahead and try to calibrate them if they aren't holding a charge. These types of batteries do have "cell memory" and can often forget what a full charge is.
This information is widely available; it's no secret and I'm not making it up. You can search for yourself or read up on it at Battery University.
Tonhos said:
A Laptop battery has many cells, and, once a while, they get different charges among them, that's why you have to fully discharge your laptop battery once a month, to get them all to the same amount of charge.
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Click to collapse
Actually, capacity drops in multi-cell batteries are typically due to voltage drops in certain cells. Draining the battery won't bring them back; you're only going to hurt the capacity of the rest of the cells. The only solution is to replace the defective cells.
Placebo placebo placebo, like I have always said. And like "theanykey" said, do not let lithium ion battery go completely empty, it just reduces battery lifespan. Seriously.
calibrating a Lithium ION battery does have some effect. 9x out of 10 there is some type of protection circuit on the battery that monitors its maximum charge, lowest charge, and wear levels and static values set by the manufacture.
Often times there can be a false wear level (wherein the wear gets set too high, usually caused by disconnecting the battery from a charge at like 95% or running the battery down to below 10%) and the charging circuitry within the battery WONT charge above that level.... to circumvent that improper wear level... a full charge, then FULL drain, then full charge is needed to properly reset those values and gain you extra battery life as the battery gets charged more.
nd4spdbh said:
calibrating a Lithium ION battery does have some effect. 9x out of 10 there is some type of protection circuit on the battery that monitors its maximum charge, lowest charge, and wear levels and static values set by the manufacture.
Often times there can be a false wear level (wherein the wear gets set too high, usually caused by disconnecting the battery from a charge at like 95% or running the battery down to below 10%) and the charging circuitry within the battery WONT charge above that level.... to circumvent that improper wear level... a full charge, then FULL drain, then full charge is needed to properly reset those values and gain you extra battery life as the battery gets charged more.
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Click to collapse
Wear level has nothing to do with usable capacity and is not accounted for during charging. It's an arbitrary number that exists solely so people will replace their batteries sooner than necessary. If I recall, its not uncommon for wear level to be calculated by charge cycles. So, by "calibrating", you may actually worsen the wear level.
Also, you do realize that lithium ion batteries never fully discharge, right? Once they do, they're dead.
If you want a technique that actually increases short-term capacity(at the expense of ruining the battery's longevity), look up bump charging.
I will edit the post as other suggestions come in.
This is what I am doing and it works very well for me. Keeping all things equal... meaning keeping your screen brightness the same, keeping you live wallpaper if you have it you should see major improvement in battery life.
Draining a new battery to 0 and charging to 100 percent several times will help extend the battery life.
Anker 1930mah I find add 20 percent better life.
I have stock HTC 1 by 1 widgets on my home screen that allow me to easily manage wifi, mobile data, sync and airplane mode. I suggest turning off backround data and auto sync.
New Energy ROM and stock videotron kernel is the best battery life by far and it a awesome Rom.
OC_daemon comes with energy rom.. i use it to drastically reduce your cpu speeds when screen is off and even can reduce when the screen is on if you do not run a lot of widgets / high demand apps...
Let me know how it works for you...
Preaak said:
I will edit the post as other suggestions come in.
This is what I am doing and it works very well for me. Keeping all things equal... meaning keeping your screen brightness the same, keeping you live wallpaper if you have it you should see major improvement in battery life.
Draining a new battery to 0 and charging to 100 percent several times will help extend the battery life.
Anker 1930mah I find add 20 percent better life.
I have stock HTC 1 by 1 widgets on my home screen that allow me to easily manage wifi, mobile data, sync and airplane mode. I suggest turning off backround data and auto sync.
New Energy ROM and stock videotron kernel is the best battery life by far and it a awesome Rom.
OC_daemon comes with energy rom.. i use it to drastically reduce your cpu speeds when screen is off and even can reduce when the screen is on if you do not run a lot of widgets / high demand apps...
Let me know how it works for you...
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Click to collapse
for the last time, lithium ions have been out for over a decade now...they do not have memory so there is no need to cycle these batteries...draining the battery and overcharging it is actually bad for lithium ions...lithium ion batteries must be in a constant state of charge and discharge to extend battery life...draining to 0 and 100 only recalibrates the accuracy of how much battery that your phone shows that is actually left in your battery. also draining the battery and overcharging lithium ions is a very bad idea and will significantly decrease the life of the battery...
the other points are absolutely true and valid and recommended
seansk said:
for the last time, lithium ions have been out for over a decade now...they do not have memory so there is no need to cycle these batteries...draining the battery and overcharging it is actually bad for lithium ions...lithium ion batteries must be in a constant state of charge and discharge to extend battery life...draining to 0 and 100 only recalibrates the accuracy of how much battery that your phone shows that is actually left in your battery. also draining the battery and overcharging lithium ions is a very bad idea and will significantly decrease the life of the battery...
the other points are absolutely true and valid and recommended
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Click to collapse
I never suggest overcharging your battery and battery memory is not the reason for a full charge and discharge.
Fully charging battery helps the phone properly read your battery and use the battery output evenly. The batteries drains at a more constant rate.. I would say it settled down.
According to Anker... to reach the best performance, full charge and discharge your new battery for 4 to 5 times.
I know you do not agree but that is my experience and that is what the maker of the battery suggest. So this should be done.
Preaak said:
I never suggest overcharging your battery.
According to Anker... to reach the best performance, full charge and discharge your new battery for 4 to 5 times.
After doing this the batteries drained at a more constant rate.. I would say it settled down. I know you do not agree but that is my experience and that is what the maker of the battery suggest. So this should be done.
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Click to collapse
I know what you're talking about. It's an old mentality that refuses to Die form years of using Ni-Cd batteries. I have a post about this somewhere I just can't find it. search up battery university lithium ion on google. It'll tell you lots more. If this was true all companies with lithium ions would tell you to charge and discharge multiple times...but newer companies like samsung and sony don't even recommend this and they just ell you to charge until full, on many of their products with lith ion now.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries
Li-ion does not need to be fully charged, as is the case with lead acid, nor is it desirable to do so. In fact, it is better not to fully charge, because high voltages stresses the battery. Choosing a lower voltage threshold, or eliminating the saturation charge altogether, prolongs battery life but this reduces the runtime. Since the consumer market promotes maximum runtime, these chargers go for maximum capacity rather than extended service life.
there are more articles in other places just got lazy lol
seansk said:
I know what you're talking about. It's an old mentality that refuses to Die form years of using Ni-Cd batteries. I have a post about this somewhere I just can't find it. search up battery university lithium ion on google. It'll tell you lots more. If this was true all companies with lithium ions would tell you to charge and discharge multiple times...but newer companies like samsung and sony don't even recommend this and they just ell you to charge until full, on many of their products with lith ion now.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries
Li-ion does not need to be fully charged, as is the case with lead acid, nor is it desirable to do so. In fact, it is better not to fully charge, because high voltages stresses the battery. Choosing a lower voltage threshold, or eliminating the saturation charge altogether, prolongs battery life but this reduces the runtime. Since the consumer market promotes maximum runtime, these chargers go for maximum capacity rather than extended service life.
there are more articles in other places just got lazy lol
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Those test mean very little because in the real world those batteries have to work our phones and not a artificial charge / discharge cycle... Meaning fully charging and discharging you battery allows your phone to properly read your battery and use the battery output evenly.
I would also point out that in that article does not say that a full charge and discharge of only 4 or 5 times will reduce service life. Yes doing this habitually will...
Preaak said:
Those test mean very little because in the real world those batteries have to work our phones and not a artificial charge / discharge cycle... Meaning fully charging and discharging you battery allows allows your phone to properly read your battery and use the battery output evenly.
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correct...the only thing that cycling a lithium ion does it to read the battery life properly...it will not affect battery life at all, unlike older ni-cd. its a race between getting a longer battery life or a longer runtime...if you want you battery to last...then i suggest you don't charge to 100 percent and you don't let you phone die...if you want more runtime which is what everyone wants, then you have to charge to 100...but as many people notice...going from 80 to 100 takes a long time while going from lets say 20 to 80 takes the same amount of time...also battery drains very quickly from 100 to around 80 percent..
my only point was that you do not need to cycle your battery multiple times. Once time should be enough for you phone to get a good handle on your calibration...besides you can always recalibrate the readout using an app.
If I have lots of widgets, can that suck more battery, also, my network is off all day, turn it on whenever I need it, and sync is off too.
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using Xparent Green Tapatalk
I have been reading these days that some of you are starting to replace the battery of the Axon 7 after 1.5-2 years. This is something we all have experienced with phones, laptops, wireless devices, etc. About 2 years ago I researched on batteries and finally discovered how to avoid the degradation in Lithium-Ion batteries. I have applied it to my Dell XPS 13 Laptop and my Axon 7 with excellent results. Due to the recent proliferation of battery replacement I think this guide can be useful to extend the useful life of your battery.
Battery wear is something that can be reduced to almost nothing with proper charging habits. But there are some urban legends out there completely false. Lets review all them:
Do NEVER charge it over 90%: TRUE. The battery wears a lot when charging the last 10%. actually charging up to 90% takes about 10% of a degradation cycle while the last 10% takes 90% of the degradation cycle. Charging to 90%, only this trick, can reduce the wear of your battery to 1/10 or even more if you stop at 80%. I use to stop at 84%.
Do NEVER drain your battery completely: TRUE. The high current required to pull the energy stored in the battery when the level is so low requires more time per energy unit and that initial 10% wears the battery excessively. So taking care of that will save your battery too. I use to set low battery mode at 15% but I always avoid being so low. Please note that leaving the battery drained for too long can make it impossible to charge. IMPORTANT: If you are not going to use a device for some time, leave battery between 40-70%, not more, not less. If you do not do that, you can have an ugly surprise in case you need it again.
Quick Charge is bad for batteries: FALSE. It is actually the opposite. QC is a lot healthier since the battery is not heated for a long time. Heat is a problem too for the battery. So, try to avoid old charging units as possible and use only QC 3.0 chargers for car and home as much as possible.
Short charging sessions damage the battery: FALSE. A number of small charging sessions in the healthy region between 20-80% battery level is healthier than a long session for several reasons, the most important is that the battery temperature never rises that much.
I have been doing this in my devices and my Axon 7 retains the same energy storage as new after 18 months of healthy charging habits. These advises are also applicable to laptops and any other device using a Li-ion battery. As you can see, leaving your phone plugged at night will kill your battery very quickly the same way a laptop battery wears quickly when left plugged. I am lucky my Dell XPS 13 has a battery control software/firmware that allows charging to stop at a desired value automatically so I can have it plugged without actually charging. I was looking for a similar solution for the Axon 7 and I found it some time ago.
It was very annoying being on top of the device taking care of the battery level when charging. There are some apps out there that monitors the battery level while charging and signal an alarm when the desired maximum charge level is reached. But we are lucky!!!! The latest Custom Oreo Kernels for the Axon 7 support the charging_enable switch and we can use now Battery Charge Limit App to modify the max battery value. Two main values can be set, the max allowed charge and the recharge level. The first one is the most interesting since the charging will stop at that level. I have 84% set here but any value between 80%-90% is safe and healthy for your battery. The second value tells the system to avoid starting a charging session if the value is still above the second threshold. It is designed to avoid rapid charge/discharge sessions. Usually a value between 4-8% under the max value is safe and healthy. I have this second value set to 79%.
With this daemon your battery will never reach 100% and with it you will avoid excessive battery degradation. It worked for me so I hope you could benefit of it too. On the other side, just avoid drain your battery too much and do not fear short charging sessions during your car commuting time or while in the shower, etc... These little tricks sum and you will save the money and damages in your unit replacing a battery you probably could have avoided with proper battery care.
Cheers!!!!
Some are not false urban legends at all. On the contrary I see lots of false claims with no source evidence.
Limiting by percentage still allows the battery voltage to reach higher shorter lifespan voltage. See that limit apps thread for discussion on limiting by voltage through Tasker instead. Further do you know what voltage that percentage idles at? It varies by device implementation setup.
Here's some information on voltage level health.
"Additionally, when the cathode voltage rises past 4.2 V, the electrolyte begins to oxidize (and ultimately decompose). This effectively limits present-day lithium-ion batteries to a maximum voltage of 4.35 V with the understanding that the “bad stuff” begins to occur past 4.0 V, and becomes unsafe past 4.35 V."
https://qnovo.com/why-battery-vendors-are-hitting-the-wall
Got a reliable source for quick charge not harming battery life? I've only seen marketing material and such claims repeated but not any research or scientific sources.
Sent from my ZTE Axon 7 using XDA Labs
Infy_AsiX said:
Some are not false urban legends at all. On the contrary I see lots of false claims with no source evidence.
Limiting by percentage still allows the battery voltage to reach higher shorter lifespan voltage. See that limit apps thread for discussion on limiting by voltage through Tasker instead. Further do you know what voltage that percentage idles at? It varies by device implementation setup.
Here's some information on voltage level health.
"Additionally, when the cathode voltage rises past 4.2 V, the electrolyte begins to oxidize (and ultimately decompose). This effectively limits present-day lithium-ion batteries to a maximum voltage of 4.35 V with the understanding that the “bad stuff” begins to occur past 4.0 V, and becomes unsafe past 4.35 V."
https://qnovo.com/why-battery-vendors-are-hitting-the-wall
Got a reliable source for quick charge not harming battery life? I've only seen marketing material and such claims repeated but not any research or scientific sources.
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Thanks for the info. However it is not easy to control the voltage of the cathode and the OP guide tries to use the available tools.
If you never fully charge how would you know if it's capacity is still near maximum?
I've kind of followed this idea for a while now ..
I always charge to a full 100% but never let the battery go completely flat ...
My Moto G is still running the same battery from new ...
My Axon 7 running Oreo is getting 4 days before it needs to be charged at normal usage..(recharge @ 15%) at the end of day 4
I get 6 days in standby
Oki said:
Quick Charge is bad for batteries: FALSE
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I switched to old weaker chargers (0.5 - 1.0 amp) as there's almost no noticeable heat at all while charging, and I've found this extends the battery life as well. If any/all heat is bad, then aren't short bursts of high heat (3.0 amp QC) worse than long periods of little/no heat (0.5 - 1.0 amp) ?
Sure...
Most all of those "tips" are hogwash.
Modern day charging is handled by the phone. If there's something that hacked that algorithm in my phone, then so be it. :fingers-crossed:
Few years ago I did some research on Lithium-Ion batteries (which behave differently from other kind of batteries, such as lead acid ones for example) and I second all the conclusions by OP. If you are interested on the matter and to understand how batteries work, check this site: https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/ the explanations are crystal clear.
Disclaimer: I have no whatsoever association with the website.