Hi
Do you think it was possible to produce the same bokeh effect that iPhone 7 with wide Lens ?
Thx
Manual mode and take a macro shot? We do have manual focus mode so i guess you could recreate it
Its différent because iPhone use two Lens at time to create this effect (like Huawei p9?) And actually lg cant use Lens at same time to add more luminosity
Its a Big difference.
No, it's software processing not real bokeh. It may use the other camera to calculate distance so the software is more accurate but that's it. It's physically impossible such small sensor and lens to produce natural bokeh unless the subject is in macro range.
Related
I've seen recently released phones which have a similar setup like the G5 with one normal and another wide angle sensor on the back, such as the Xiaomi A1. And they have the ability to combine the inputs of both sensors to post-process the blurry 'bokeh" portrait mode effect.
Which makes me wonder why this can't be done on the G5/G6? How much modification of the A1 camera app would it take for this to work? I'm pointing out A1 specifically because the camera app has already been ported to other Xiaomi phones.
These other phones don't have a wide angle lens. They use a telephoto one instead which helps create the effect
You probably would not be able to just port over that app. But it might be possible to create the same effect by cropping the wide angle lens back to the same or slightly more than the standard camera. But that probably won't work too well, since you already have half the resolution on the wide angle lens, and you need to cut it down even more to even get close to the other lens' angle
The A1 uses a wide angle as the secondary camera with the primary being a telephoto. But I've seen the wide angle shots and they don't look like they have much of a fisheye effect that the LG G5 has. But I do think with a bit of lens correction this may be doable.
But I don't have the skills for this.
Sorry to diggout this old subject
But I bought a LG G5 recently for 150$, I'm very happy with (apart from ghosting screen effect) and I'm really interested in portrait mode
I'm a java developer (and recently Android), if anyone still interested, I can spend time on it, it would be possible I think
Portrait mode for lg g5 request
Please please develope portrait mode for LG g5 ... And thanks in advance ...
The cameras on the Mate 10 are great, but would definitely benefit with some more tweaking. The primary camera performs really well and offers fine tuned control over almost all the variables. I've found that the auto-exposure in low light raises the ISO quite a bit and the picture ends up looking fake, plastic and grainy. This can easily be fixed by under-exposing or by lowering the ISO in manual mode, but only with the primary camera. The front camera always seems to expose for the face. There are no controls to set exposure or focus, and there is no manual mode. Although it performs well in good light, the results are poor in low light and the lack of any control restricts any creative photography. For instance, if I move the camera off my face, it exposes for the background but it doesn't lock. The exposure switches back the instant I reframe the shot. Is there any workaround for controlling the front camera besides using another camera app?
Front facing camera manual focus
I have the same problem, the front facing camera is almost unusable where there is a lot of light.
Workaround
isvellopez said:
I have the same problem, the front facing camera is almost unusable where there is a lot of light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have installed open camera, and this app let me lock the exposure of the front facing camera.
any solution found of this? i can hardly use the front camera because of this issue
The front facing camera on the Mate 10 Pro is great for taking outdoor selfies, as long as you want a solid white background behind you. I can't believe more people aren't complaining about this and that there isn't an official fix.
Helo everybody,
I am wondering if there is a way to lock F2.4 lens with 2x zoom no matter lighting conditions? I am so frustrated when we get digital zoom instead of 2x optical zoom because of bad (under 100 lux) in worse than optimal light. It's F2.4 optical stablised lens so why digital zoom? That sucks don't you think..?
honestly, you'll be surprised on how bad the tele lens in capturing light.
You can play with this. Go to live focus mode, turn the blur effect all the way down. This will force the tele lens to be used. Make sure dual capture is ON.
Now go to your gallery and find that pic, compare the picture in Close up Vs. Wide. You'll be surprised on the difference between the two lens.
What boggled me more is the fact that the tele lens is the one that they used for the Slomo mode. You would think that they would use the main lens with brighter aperture for something that requires soooo much light.
Hello,
i take photos from the night sky since serveral years (with smartphones too).
Unfortunately with the Samsung S9plus the stars are not pinpoint like as they are on the Samsung S7. They apear very distorted with a kind of a halo.
Ofcourse the smartphone was not moved during 10 seconds of exposure time.
I did layed it down and used the self timer mode to prevent shaking.
I tried it serveral days in comparison with the Samung S7.
The S7 is always much better and show pinpoint like stars.
The distortion of the stars is visible in the RAW files(DNG) too so no jpeg problem forced by the compression.
Could you reproduce the same problems?
I am not allowed to post links.So how to show you the photo?
Could send you the link of the uploaded photos for comparison.
The dual camera variants of Samsung phones tend to overexpose shots, especially during darker environment.
That's what I noticed, and I'm waiting for the update they sent to Note 9s.
https://www.xda-developers.com/samsung-galaxy-note-9-update-camera-improvements/
Are you using the telephoto camera? It has OIS driven by digital gyroscopes. Those gyroscopes aren't effective at low frequencies so the OIS will slowly drift around a small amount. 1/5 second is usually the limit for sharp photos. Even when the gyroscopes are turned off, OIS lenses are VERY sensitive to motion because of the lens being on a soft suspension. Walking next to the tripod could wobble the lens.
You also can't expect clear images if you use F/1.5.
Try using the wide angle lens.
I would send a photo to someone of you so you can post it here into the Tread.
Who like to do it?
The camera was layed down on the ground so no shaking or vibration ppossible during the exposure time.
I found no setting that the OIS gyroscope is working in photo mode. OIS is probably only working in video modes.
Even if it works in photo mode, the camera was layed down, so no shaking could happen.
Who of you could make a photo from the stars with the following settings?
Pro Mode
Camera mounted or layed on the ground with direction to the night sky.
Self timer to prevent shaking
Iso 800
10sec shutter speed
F 1.4
kevinmcmurtrie said:
Are you using the telephoto camera? It has OIS driven by digital gyroscopes. Those gyroscopes aren't effective at low frequencies so the OIS will slowly drift around a small amount. 1/5 second is usually the limit for sharp photos. Even when the gyroscopes are turned off, OIS lenses are VERY sensitive to motion because of the lens being on a soft suspension. Walking next to the tripod could wobble the lens.
You also can't expect clear images if you use F/1.5.
Try using the wide angle lens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Antwort unfortunately the tele lens only works in very good light conditions.
Even in a bright lighted room there is no way to activate the real Tele lens. The camera automatic switch to digital Zoom.
Also in pro mode its not possible to use the telephoto lens if the light condirions are not perfect.
This is very bad because if the cameras is standing still completely and the object doesn't move why not using the Tele camera lens in pro mode?
Very interesting Thanks for the link
fortesquieu said:
The dual camera variants of Samsung phones tend to overexpose shots, especially during darker environment.
That's what I noticed, and I'm waiting for the update they sent to Note 9s.
https://www.xda-developers.com/samsung-galaxy-note-9-update-camera-improvements/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
S9 plus Someone able to shoot a photo from the stars/nightsky?
Hello,
just like to ask if someone here are able to shoot a photo from the stars with the Samsung S9 plus by using the following settings:
Please post your photo here to compare it with my one.
Pro Mode
Iso 800
Shutter 10seconds
F 1.4
Selftimer to prevent shaking
Camera on a tripod or layed on the ground
Thanks
As you probably already know, there is more than one way to take close-up pictures with your P30 Pro. You can use the dedicated Super Macro mode (found under More in your stock camera app) or manually set the focus to macro in Pro mode. However, two years of experience have taught me that by far the best way to take really crisp macro shots with my phone is not an obvious one. In fact, I bet you have never even tried it.
You see, our phone comes with 2 primary lenses, each with its own sensor. The main lens boasts a 40MP sensor, making it the default choice for your everyday shots, while the wide secondary lens has a 20MP sensor, which makes it sound a little underwhelming. However, when it comes to macro photography, the wide lens has one major advantage over its big brother - a much shorter minimum focus distance. This allows you to bring the lens much closer to your subject before the image becomes blurry. So to take superior close-up shots with your P30 Pro, all you have to do is switch to the wide lens by selecting the Wide picture mode in the camera app. You can combine this with the dedicated HDR mode (found under More in your stock camera app) to eliminate any unwanted shadows. However, be aware that at such close proximity to the subject the autofocus can no longer be relied on. So manual focusing is strongly recommended.
Below are some sample pictures taken by each lens at their minimum focus distance.
40MP Primary Lens at minimum focus distance:
https://ibb.co/61kjmDQ
40MP Primary Lens, Closer Look:
https://ibb.co/ftpmCnx
20MP Secondary (Wide) Lens at minimum focus distance:
https://ibb.co/f4J7rCD
20MP Secondary (Wide) Lens, Closer Look:
https://ibb.co/dktkjqH
As you can see, the wide lens was able to capture far superior detail at minimum focusing distance compared to the 40MP shot. In real life application this means less cropping and more pictures like these:
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
https://ibb.co/1TtJHyz
https://ibb.co/Qb8PfNh
Have fun with your Macro shots!
That's really informative, and the difference in detail in your pics is quite stark. I'll try your suggestions for myself.
Thanks
That last pic is stunning!
I would add something to this post : shoot in RAW. You'll need to post-process the pictures, but the results are way much better regarding color, sharpness and lighting than what the auto mode can provide !
Quick comparison :
Auto mode :
https://ibb.co/QfzW5F3
RAW file manually edited :
https://ibb.co/bmWmmLq
I can assure you this flower wasn't anywhere near pink !
All the colours are different between those two pics, not just the flower. What does post-processing involve?
It's actually up to you. The RAW file only offers you a lot more freedom, with greater dynamic range and sharpness than a jpg file. You can crop and still get a perfectly sharp picture, you can play with lighting, shadows, colors ... to get exactly what you want.
In my case, a better quality and a more realistic / natural look. Most of the time, I get oversaturated pictures, with an exaggerated HDR effect and lack of detail using the auto mode (and I'm not only talking about macrophotography).
Regarding this specific RAW picture, I cropped and increased saturation and texture using Photoshop. The whole process took no more than ten minutes.
To give you an idea, here is what it looks like unedited : https://ibb.co/3mVKFbX
poulos971 said:
It's actually up to you. The RAW file only offers you a lot more freedom, with greater dynamic range and sharpness than a jpg file. You can crop and still get a perfectly sharp picture, you can play with lighting, shadows, colors ... to get exactly what you want.
In my case, a better quality and a more realistic / natural look. Most of the time, I get oversaturated pictures, with an exaggerated HDR effect and lack of detail using the auto mode (and I'm not only talking about macrophotography).
Regarding this specific RAW picture, I cropped and increased saturation and texture using Photoshop. The whole process took no more than ten minutes.
To give you an idea, here is what it looks like unedited : https://ibb.co/3mVKFbX
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do enjoy playing with RAW. However, as I only ever post my pictures on social media where their quality gets butchered by the site's own compression engine, I find it difficult to justify the time investment in RAW editing. So I stick to JPEG format in Pro mode with master AI disabled.
i can't see "wide picture "in camera app for 20mp lens??cancel that
tonybhoy said:
i can't see "wide picture "in camera app for 20mp lens??cancel that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to be in Pro mode with resolution set to 10MP. Don't ask me why. Ask our friends at Huawei =)
https://ibb.co/7jcRFFc
So I took Paulos971's suggestion and combined the wide lens macro with RAW. I have to say - I am not disappointed. Below are the edited versions of the same image taken simultaneously in RAW and JPEG.
Image saved as JPEG:
https://ibb.co/nmQcXLk
Image saved as RAW (.DNG):
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
koi8ru said:
You need to be in Pro mode with resolution set to 10MP. Don't ask me why. Ask our friends at Huawei =)
https://ibb.co/7jcRFFc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i just went to photo mode and slid slider down to wide,never went to pro
koi8ru said:
So I took Paulos971's suggestion and combined the wide lens macro with RAW. I have to say - I am not disappointed. Below are the edited versions of the same image taken simultaneously in RAW and JPEG.
Image saved as JPEG:
https://ibb.co/nmQcXLk
Image saved as RAW (.DNG):
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, amazing picture ! :good:
Yeah editing takes some time indeed, but I really think it's worth it
guys, go see my page, i have a lot of photos taken by my P30 Pro. You will see a lot of macro photography
My name on instagram is Titibenze
poulos971 said:
I would add something to this post : shoot in RAW. You'll need to post-process the pictures, but the results are way much better regarding color, sharpness and lighting than what the auto mode can provide !
Quick comparison :
Auto mode :
https://ibb.co/QfzW5F3
RAW file manually edited :
https://ibb.co/bmWmmLq
I can assure you this flower wasn't anywhere near pink !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried many times to use RAW, but it works only at full res of 40mp an noise is incredibly hight, even with good light. Ho do yout set for those 2 example shot??
Leoxur said:
I tried many times to use RAW, but it works only at full res of 40mp an noise is incredibly hight, even with good light. Ho do yout set for those 2 example shot??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the RAW file will always be a full resolution picture (i. e. 40mp using the main camera, 20mp on the ultrawide and 8mp on the telephoto).
To avoid noise, you must shoot at the lowest possible ISO setting ! It also depends on the sensor used (as the main one is bigger, it produces less noisy pictures than the ultrawide / telephoto).
This example picture was shot in 1/500s at 50 ISO using the ultrawide camera.