Related
Pixel binning is a mechanism to use 2 (or more) pixels of the camera sensor to create 1 pixel in the final image. Pixel binning is basically trading resolution for higher sensitivity. This significantly helps to reduce sensor noise in low light scenes.
The video camera of the SGS2 seems to make use of pixel binning when recording in 720p. The sensor resolution is way bigger than the video resolution of 1280x720 and so sensor pixels are "combined".
Now I'm wondering, if pixel binning could also be used for the still camera. While the camera can take great shots at day light, it has (as most digital cameras) significant noise issues in low light scenes. The still camera could really benefit from pixel binning to create well exposed and less noisy images. I for one would love to have the possibility to trade some mega pixels for noise free, low light images.
Code:
aspect ratio | normal resolution | possible pb resolution
4:3 3264x2448, 8mpx 1632x1224, 2mpx
16:9 3264x1968, 6.5mpx 1632x984, 1.6mpx
Does anyone of the developers see a way to enable pixel binning via a (software) mod for the still camera?
shameless bump
I have been very disappointed with the Z Ultra camera, when I'm about to take a photo it looks gorgeous on the phone screen but then it looks crappy after the shot is taken.
There is a big loss of detail, it's almost if some sort of oil paint effect was applied to the photos on.
Today I noticed that the videos have much better image quality than the photos, I can pause a video and see how beautiful the image looks compared to regular shots.
I used to own a T2 Ultra and it had an excellent depth of field which allow me to shoot beautiful macros, the Z ultra has a bright lens on the specs but I can't get the same quality on the macros.
Overall it seems that the camera driver is messing around with the sharpness on the still pictures and screwing up something, is the camera driver source code available from the AOSP project?
I tried many, many other apps but it doesn't help much other than adding post processing tricks on top of the pictures, the problem seems to lie on the camera driver.
Thanks
use a 3rd party camera app that allows you to set the ISO abd set that at 50 or 100 at max. The image will be better, but not perfect. The underlying processor is poor in the ZU
blueether said:
use a 3rd party camera app that allows you to set the ISO abd set that at 50 or 100 at max. The image will be better, but not perfect. The underlying processor is poor in the ZU
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I felt that there could be some hope for the camera if the driver could be improved, the specs of the image sensor seem to be not bad compared to it's "brother" sensors: here.
I still believe that the driver is applying some heavy sharpening on the image and not doing a good job as far as of contrast/dynamic range as well as encoding raw image to JPEG inefficiently thus delivering washed out pictures.
IMX134 8 M Exmor RS sensor.
1.12μm pixel size.
IU134F9-Z lens.
f/2.4 aperture.
28mm aperture.
At the club, at the bar, or just in your mom's basement, nighttime is when you come out to play. Rate this thread to express how the Huawei Mate 9's camera performs when no or low light is present. A higher rating indicates that the camera sensor "sees" lots of light in dim conditions, and that the resulting photos have minimal noise. A higher rating also indicates that when the flash fires, the resulting photo is evenly-lit without any bright spots.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
Black and White Winter shots
Hi, I've been taking some shots with the Monochrome sensor during the white winter in Germany. You can check them out at my blog here:
https://ddienlin.de/en/this and that/Mate-9-Camera.html
So far I'm very happy with the low light performance of the monochrome sensor.
I've also attached a little appetiser
onemandivision said:
Hi, I've been taking some shots with the Monochrome sensor during the white winter in Germany. You can check them out at my blog here:
https://ddienlin.de/en/this and that/Mate-9-Camera.html
So far I'm very happy with the low light performance of the monochrome sensor.
I've also attached a little appetiser
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The low light capability looks quite good. Makes me glad I ordered the Mate 9 although it makes the wait for delivery harder. Please add some more color ones. Is it possible to take both 12 MP and 20 MP colour shots (I guess the 12 MP colour pictures would be post processed using the 20 MP B&W camera to make a 20 MP colour one). Btw, good eye too!
Thanks! Haven't made any good low light shots with colour enabled recently, but there are good ones in this German android forum: http://www.android-hilfe.de/thema/k...-diskussion-frage-huawei-mate-9.802242/page-2
Better than Note5, less noise in the photos
Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk
onemandivision said:
Hi, I've been taking some shots with the Monochrome sensor during the white winter in Germany. You can check them out at my blog here:
https://ddienlin.de/en/this and that/Mate-9-Camera.html
So far I'm very happy with the low light performance of the monochrome sensor.
I've also attached a little appetiser
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Man, those black and whites look good. Wish the color was as sharp/clear
Was there any significant improvement to the low light capability after the update as reported on some sites?
phynicle said:
Was there any significant improvement to the low light capability after the update as reported on some sites?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, low light on stationary objects are very good. camera lowers iso and goes to a very slow shutter. Great detail but will blur easily on anything moving
I used manual -2 step exposure for stars shot. There is a bit of sharpening added in second version of each photo. Bit of S7 Edge style, but not so much oversharpened. In parking shot I have used shutter speed 1/4 sec. so you have to have steady hand and there's basically 50% chance that your photo may be blured due to hand shake and fast object moving to side from you will get blured as well. But for static scene Mate 9 does admirable job, if you can keep your hands steady. Both quick shots I've took today were taken handheld. Color reproduction is excellent for both shots, true to life.
taphius said:
yeah, low light on stationary objects are very good. camera lowers iso and goes to a very slow shutter. Great detail but will blur easily on anything moving
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the case for every camera in low light situation. Either the ISO value will be high with lot of noise, or low ISO with slow shutter speed which is not good if anything is moving in scene.
I think Mate 9 has excellent picture quality both in daylight and low light. Especially dynamic range is outstanding and much better than in my other device iP7Plus.
sobelixtus said:
That's the case for every camera in low light situation. Either the ISO value will be high with lot of noise, or low ISO with slow shutter speed which is not good if anything is moving in scene.
I think Mate 9 has excellent picture quality both in daylight and low light. Especially dynamic range is outstanding and much better than in my other device iP7Plus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Mostly agree, with little addition. Almost every MOBILE camera, except Google Pixel which uses approx 2x faster shutter speed compared to other mobile cameras because of HDR+ and thanks to this it reduces a lot of high ISO noise, kind of. It have to, because it lacks OIS. But pixel is a lot more expensive than Mate 9, even base 5.2 inch model and for me personally it looks ugly, those thick bezels, display ratio, relatively small battery, for that kind of money. Then, on avarage DSLR camera with APS-C sensor and F/1.8 50mm lens one can use about 4-6 times faster shutter speed than Mate 9. So basically where you're shooting 1/17 with Mate 9 you can shot 1/100 with mirrorless DSLR and still get bit better quality pictures out of it with more details preserved and better dynamic range.
D1G1TE said:
I Mostly agree, with little addition. Almost every MOBILE camera, except Google Pixel which uses approx 2x faster shutter speed compared to other mobile cameras because of HDR+ and thanks to this it reduces a lot of high ISO noise, kind of. It have to, because it lacks OIS. But pixel is a lot more expensive than Mate 9, even base 5.2 inch model and for me personally it looks ugly, those thick bezels, display ratio, relatively small battery, for that kind of money. Then, on avarage DSLR camera with APS-C sensor and F/1.8 50mm lens one can use about 4-6 times faster shutter speed than Mate 9. So basically where you're shooting 1/17 with Mate 9 you can shot 1/100 with mirrorless DSLR and still get bit better quality pictures out of it with more details preserved and better dynamic range.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course. I am only talking about mobile phone cameras and not even thinking about DSLRs in the same sentence
It is obvious that mobile phone cameras with much smaller sensors cannot compete with DSLR in low light scenario. In good day light both can produce well balanced shots with good dynamic range, but still the edge is on DSLR side
This may be obvious, but a tripod makes a massive difference for low light on this phone.
Coolbananas said:
This may be obvious, but a tripod makes a massive difference for low light on this phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but from real life scenario, how many times one carries tripod in his/her pocket? If you're already carrying tripod there's not big deal to carry mirrorless DSLR, Sony has nice low profile lens for example.
I personally have this tripod from Polaroid https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/789591-REG/Polaroid_PLTRI42_42_TRAVEL_TRIPOD.html which is extremely portable and can fit into jacket inner pocket. But it isn't exactly comfortable to wear it all the time with your phone during night.
Some fireworks, using light graffiti, light painting mode. I've found out to be best for fireworks. Handheld.
Camera Bug
Today I had a very annoying bug. Given that it snowed I wanted to do a series of photographs. I tried several ways: Monochrome Photo HDR and Night Photo. Bug occurred when I tried to take pictures in '' Night Photo '' and manifests this: I press the button for shooting, display show the message "processing '' and stuck so for several dozen seconds after the image made black. I closed camera app, I opened it again black picture still. I had to close camera app, delete from ram, wait few seconds and work again. I repeted 3 times same results. Please try it and tell me if your phone do the same. I have B138. Thanks. Sorry for my english.
Dual cameras as huawei mate 9
smartphone with dual cameras as huawei mate 9,you can choose sumvier.
Night Mode with Tripod, compressed via social network apps.
3200 ISO impressive...
From hand or tripod?
And what tripod do you recommend?
Wysłane z mojego SM-N920C przy użyciu Tapatalka
I've been using the Huawei P10 on an off since MWC and thought I'd share my camera review and 90+ pictures that I've taken with the phone.
Quick highlights: camera is similar to the P9 form last year, but the software has gotten better and the P10's digital background blur is better as well. HDR images are kinda dull, but HRD isn't really needed since the dual-sensor does a really good job of pulling in extra light. Works really well when taking photos against the sun. Low light performance could be better. I'll have to do some side-by-side comparison shots, but I think low light was better on the P9.
93 pictures
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3FaKHjjH-yqa2dYSWNMUUlYR1E/view?usp=sharing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSdE5QyAuCE (video)
Huawei P10 camera review
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NMdPQ5qUPw
Let me know what you think.
Very good review, i have the same thoughts (as former P9 user).
Very good review, i read on other review P10 is beter than iphone 7 in low light... What do you think ?
The camera is awesome, I never take pictures with cell phone, but since it's Leica and the pictures come out pro and you have the ability to take RAW, I will use this as a secondary camera next to my DSLR camera.
Hello
I'm curious about the low light performance two. Some of the reviewers says it's one of the best low light performers. Others says it could be better. I even read a review claiming that the low light performance of the LG G6 is better. Also some people is comparing pictures taken in totally dark rooms, without any light at all. I don't think that's a useful approach. And apparently if the phone camera adds brightness and heavyly over exposes the picture of the dark room. That phone is judged supperior than the phone with the lesser overexposured picture.
ClausG76 said:
Hello
I'm curious about the low light performance two. Some of the reviewers says it's one of the best low light performers. Others says it could be better. I even read a review claiming that the low light performance of the LG G6 is better. Also some people is comparing pictures taken in totally dark rooms, without any light at all. I don't think that's a useful approach. And apparently if the phone camera adds brightness and heavyly over exposes the picture of the dark room. That phone is judged supperior than the phone with the lesser overexposured picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly.
Most reviewers (probably not photographers) tend to think that if the camera
overexpose a dark scene then it has a good low light "performance"
To me it is looks totally fake and unnatural..
Low light performance should be how close the camera can reproduce the current scene and at what noise level at given iso/shutter speed.
Before the P10 I used the Nexus 5x which was a lot better in darker areas. If you like I can provide a comparison.
JamesTBG said:
Before the P10 I used the Nexus 5x which was a lot better in darker areas. If you like I can provide a comparison.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes preferably non HDR and please provide info of iso and shutter speed (if no exif) and what light level it was when the picture was taken.
Bromsoket said:
Yes preferably non HDR and please provide info of iso and shutter speed (if no exif) and what light level it was when the picture was taken.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah Sorry. Because shooting pictures without HDR does not make so much sense for me, I can only compare HDR.
But maybe I can provide it after the weekend when I get my hands on my old Nexus.
Hey there. I'm a proud owner of this phone too and since most of you would like to know how the low light situation I'm showing you some photos in this conditions.
They do have some snapseed post-processing because I was experimenting with it.
Huawei P10 review
Yes!!! The camera is the main attraction. 20MP + 12MP dual lens camera is capable of taking crispy pictures or video. Other impressive features include Leica optics, phase detection and laser autofocus, dual-LED, dual-tone flash.
Huawei P10 Plus is a premium smartphone. It features a powerful HiSilicon Kirin 960 supported by an octa-core processor. For intense gaming or multitasking, Mali-G71 graphic processor with either 4GB or 6GB RAM is more than enough. The device will be extremely snappy and responsive. The two variations in storage (64GB & 128GB) will be more than enough for your files and downloads. But you can easily expand it via microSD. The entire device is powered by Li-Ion 3750 mAh battery with fast charging capabilities.
Let me know what you think! :fingers-crossed:
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Xebeck said:
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
thesoupthief said:
It's plainly not a problem.
You may find a similarly serious "fault" where your photo comes out black if you cover the lens with your finger while taking the shot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Xebeck said:
.
.
Bloody Fanboys ftw...
Why comment if you don't have anything to help me with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
thesoupthief said:
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so chippy. The fact of it is though that this is not a problem. The phone's software adjusts depending on lighting conditions so when you change the lighting it's gonna change its behaviour. Go take some pics in daylight and other real world conditions if you want to confirm whether it's operating correctly. You can always find ways to catch these algorithms out with artificial situations
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Thanks...
I didn't wanna run out of my replacement period and then realise that I should have acted
Yes, this is not a problem, a reviewer showed how the camera reacted when photo was taken from two different angles, at one angle green color was dominant while on different angle it was not.
Xebeck said:
Hi guys...
How is everyone?
Kindly see the following two pics.
When the focus is on the tubelight the screen goes all yellow and thus the resulting pic as well.
but when I covered the tube light with my hand IT returns to normal the actual colour that is there.
Do any of you guys have this problem how should I get my unit replaced?
Is this even a problem or normal white balance stuff?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
.
Thank you for the explanation and the effort
3DRIAN said:
If you happen to still have your Poco, this condition is NOT a hardware nor a white balance problem on Poco. This is a normal behaviour of the flourescent lighting especially when the camera is using fast shutter speed. The yellowing is a phenomenon in which the camera captures the lower portion of the flicker curve, in laymans term, when the light has just turned ON and is not on its peak power yet.
But why was it using fast shutter speed? It should use low shutter speed!
You have a camera with a sensor that can capture huge amount of light at a given intensity and has the capability to use fast shutter speed in order to not blind itself (to not overblown the image). If you ever do use a slower shutter speed, there is a huge probability of the image of being overblown or for the moving subjects to have trails. You could still make some few adjustments in manual mode.
But my old smartphone renders the proper white color!
It is true, it renders white colors because it might be having a lower aperture, smaller sensor or even smaller photocells. To put it simply, it is using slower shutter speeds because it is what it can do and it is doing well with flourescent. It is not being blinded by the light because its camera configuration is not advanced enough to capture more light on a given amount of intensity, does slow shutter speed.
Put this into your mind: At a given constant white balance, a magnetic ballast flourescent lamp will still emit yellow tint/cast whenever the camera is using fast shutter speed. This is NOT an issue of the camera itself but a limitation of of the light source itself because advanced camera systems were now fast enough to capture its low power phase/state.
This phenomenon DOES show on full flrame cameras ie Nikon D90 and Canon Rebel XSI 450d, due to them having bigger sensors therefore using even more faster shutter speed. This doesn't mean that they're defective.
This phenomenon DOES NOT show on high frequency lamps such as midrange LEDs and mostly Flourescents with electronic ballast.
If you really are into photography and wanted to do it under a Flourescent lamp, read these links:
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*29830*how-does-aperture-size-or-shutter-speed-affect-color-temperature
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*43026*how-to-correct-yellowish-pictures-under-fluorescent-lighting-on-a-digital-camera#43029
https:**photo.stackexchange.com*questions*4115*do-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed-create-a-problem-with-color-cast
http:**blog.tommyimages.com*2009*06*photographing-under-fluorescent-lights.html
https:**en.wikipedia.org*wiki*Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems
- change the * to / and remove any spaces to make the link usable. My apologies for the inconvenience with the links.
If you read them properly, you should know that this do happen even on Full frame cameras. The main culprit was the magnetic ballast flourescent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the explanation! I'm having some problems in places with that type of lights but not when pointing to them, just taking a normal picture, same picture can have that yellow tint, or not, just changing from one camera to the other one or moving around the photo a little bit....