Hello xda-community!
First of all, thank you for your great material, guides and information you are offering here!
Now to the point:
I've flashed my Kindle Fire HDX 7" (Thor) with TWRP 3.0.3-1 with the LineageOS 14.1 and everything was great the first day.
After the night with my Kindle plugged in to AC charger I recognised my device turn off overnight. Was a little bit tricky to turn on (60s power-button reset) again.
No issues while using it in day-time. This time over night I didn't plug it in.
The next morning I saw the device rebooted and got stuck in the grey kindle fire bootloader screen. I reset then booted to Recovery TWRP showed me 14% battery left.
I've pluged it in AC charger and booted to Lineage. Lineage then showed me 100% battery charged. Even when I unplugged the kindle form power it remains 100 % charged and says its connected to AC power.
After this I let my Kindle run empty. The battery indicator in Lineage still remained 100%. The OS didn't shut down when power was low. In the end the screen was showing dark spots and was flashing 2 seconds to white and then the device was dead.
I've plugged it in again. Since this Lineage still shows 100% charged. If I boot to TWRP the battery indicator in the status bar disappeared mysteriously.
adb shell dumpsys battery brings up:
Code:
adb shell dumpsys
Current Battery Service state:
AC powered: true
USB powered: true
Wireless powered: false
Max charging current: 0
Max charging voltage: 0
status: 2
health: 2
present: true
level: 100
scale: 100
voltage: 0
temperature: 424
technology:
I've also flashed the LinageOS again and I've tried older versions of TWRP still the same (TWRP no battery indicator; Lineage 100%)
Also in CM13 it shows 100% charged. The kindle became very unstable and can only be run plugged in now. It seems the battery isn't chrarging at all any more.
What can I do to use the battery normal? Should I replace the battery?
I've also saw that the folder /sys/class/power_supply/ only contains 3 subfolders:
Code:
smb349_ac
smb349_usb
usb
I'm not sure but it seems to me that the folder for my battery is missing. Anybody have an idea?
Necronomynus said:
I've also saw that the folder /sys/class/power_supply/ only contains 3 subfolders:
Code:
smb349_ac
smb349_usb
usb
I'm not sure but it seems to me that the folder for my battery is missing. Anybody have an idea?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can please someone post the "normal" view of this class? Thank you
OK folks, seems my battery has found its way back to life.
The class now looks like this:
Code:
bq27x41
smb349_ac
smb349_usb
usb
And the bq27x41 subclass contains all the info of my battery I could wish for. Charging and discharging behaviour seems pretty normal at the moment.
adb shell dumpsys battery now brings up:
Code:
ads su shell dumpsys
Current Battery Service state:
AC powered: false
USB powered: false
Wireless powered: false
Max charging current: 0
Max charging voltage: 0
Charge counter: 0
status: 3
health: 2
present: true
level: 86
scale: 100
voltage: 4105
temperature: 358
technology: Li-ion
Don't ask me what how I've exactly repaired my device. That's what I did:
flash kindle fire OS recovery system data boot with TWRP
flash vunarable bootloader and unlock it
flash TWRP 3.0.2-2 again
wipe everything also format data
flash CM13 and GAPPS
reboot/reset
let device in TWRP turned on and connected to AC power for 24h
wipe and flash Linage14. 1 and GAPPS
used my device normal while plugged in all the time for 3 days. When I'm not using it, I shutdown OS and unplugged my device. Then I've always powered it on again while connected to the AC-charger
after OS was running 2h I've unplugged my device from AC and now the battery is working again
Damn. I've booted to TWRP to see if the battery indicator is back but it was not. So no I've the same status again like in the OP.... No battery indicator in Lineage14. 1, too. I don't get it what happened.
Can someone please explain how and when this class is initialised by Android and when the objects (power_supply/bq27x41) are created. How can I trigger this?
Necronomynus said:
Damn. I've booted to TWRP to see if the battery indicator is back but it was not. So no I've the same status again like in the OP.... No battery indicator in Lineage14. 1, too. I don't get it what happened.
Can someone please explain how and when this class is initialised by Android and when the objects (power_supply/bq27x41) are created. How can I trigger this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Met the same problem... I ran out of the battary and charged. After I rebooted, the battery indicator never worked again.
Necronomynus said:
Damn. I've booted to TWRP to see if the battery indicator is back but it was not. So no I've the same status again like in the OP.... No battery indicator in Lineage14. 1, too. I don't get it what happened.
Can someone please explain how and when this class is initialised by Android and when the objects (power_supply/bq27x41) are created. How can I trigger this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you finally solved the problem? I reflashed Lineage and also tried CM13, but the problem remained. I plan to try the official OS to see if it works.
fhh2626 said:
Have you finally solved the problem? I reflashed Lineage and also tried CM13, but the problem remained. I plan to try the official OS to see if it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thoughts:
- downgrade TWRP to 3.0.0-1 (yes, this seems unrelated; eliminating variables)
- try Fire Nexus (KitKat build) which shares the largest common base w/stock
- be sure to wipe system and data partitions prior to each attempt
Obviously Nexus is not a permanent solution; just trying to drive to root cause)
Davey126 said:
Thoughts:
- downgrade TWRP to 3.0.0-1 (yes, this seems unrelated; eliminating variables)
- try Fire Nexus (KitKat build) which shares the largest common base w/stock
- be sure to wipe system and data partitions prior to each attempt
Obviously Nexus is not a permanent solution; just trying to drive to root cause)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried Nexus..doesn't help. thanks anyway
fhh2626 said:
I tried Nexus..doesn't help. thanks anyway
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no I have not found a solution yet. Still facing the same problem sometimes it works for some hours or days in LineOS and the suddenly the battery status is not updated anymore (e.x. at 55% battery doesn't change even when I plug in) after reboot it shows imediateley 100 % for some days) Then even while operating LineOS and without need of a reboot the indicator suddenly is working again.
It would be really helpful to know which event and which command the kernel issues to refresh/rebuild battery information from the smb349 (battery power-management IC) via i2cget command.
While using the Kindle without working battery indicator (I can still use it normally, even unplugged now) I just have to remember myself how long I've used it unplugged not to run out of battery unexpected.
While the working battery indicator days I've run "Accu Battery 1.1.7c" App which reports good health status and about 93% of the design capacity (4550 mAh) of my battery left
I always power it off and unplug it in phases I'm not using it for longer time (e.x. overnight). This improved the stability a lot.
Necronomynus said:
no I have not found a solution yet. Still facing the same problem sometimes it works for some hours or days in LineOS and the suddenly the battery status is not updated anymore (e.x. at 55% battery doesn't change even when I plug in) after reboot it shows imediateley 100 % for some days) Then even while operating LineOS and without need of a reboot the indicator suddenly is working again.
It would be really helpful to know which event and which command the kernel issues to refresh/rebuild battery information from the smb349 (battery power-management IC) via i2cget command.
While using the Kindle without working battery indicator (I can still use it normally, even unplugged now) I just have to remember myself how long I've used it unplugged not to run out of battery unexpected.
While the working battery indicator days I've run "Accu Battery 1.1.7c" App which reports good health status and about 93% of the design capacity (4550 mAh) of my battery left
I always power it off and unplug it in phases I'm not using it for longer time (e.x. overnight). This improved the stability a lot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Curious - which build of TWRP do you have installed? Obscure long shot but updgrading/downgrading might yield some insights. Does battery status show correctly from the recovery UI?
Another (albeit riskier) option is to reflash the vulnerable bootloader.
Davey126 said:
Curious - which build of TWRP do you have installed? Obscure long shot but updgrading/downgrading might yield some insights. Does battery status show correctly from the recovery UI?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you Davey for trying to help us.
I'm using TWRP 3.1.0.0. At the periods the indicator works in LineageOS it also works in TWRP and vice versa if not then both not.
I've also tried TWRP 3.0.2-2 which shows the same behaviour.
I've upgraded to the LOS 02. May release today. Maybe the indicator works better now. I will let you know.
In the Folder /sys/class/power_supply/
The bq27x41 is a link to the object:
Code:
/sys/devices/f9967000.i2c/i2c-0/0-0055/power_supply/bq27x41
This object and all it's sub objects are these
Code:
/power/autosuspend_delay_ms
/power/control
/power/runtime_active_time
/power/runtime_status
/power/runtime_suspended_time
capacity
charge_full
charge_full_design
charge_now
charge_now_design
current_now
device.lnk
energy_avg
health
manufacturer
status
subsystem.lnk
technology
temp
type
uevent
voltage_now
Davey126 said:
Curious - which build of TWRP do you have installed? Obscure long shot but updgrading/downgrading might yield some insights. Does battery status show correctly from the recovery UI?
Another (albeit riskier) option is to reflash the vulnerable bootloader.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem still the same in the LOS 14.1 May release. But overall performance getting better now only approx 25% of usage time of the device my battery indicator doesn't work.
What is the risk with flashing the vulnerable boot loader? Do I have to unlock it again?
Necronomynus said:
The problem still the same in the LOS 14.1 May release. But overall performance getting better now only approx 25% of usage time of the device my battery indicator doesn't work.
What is the risk with flashing the vulnerable boot loader? Do I have to unlock it again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find it interesting the battery indicator also does not work when booted into a custom recovery (TWRP) which operates independently from whatever lives in the system partition (eg: LinOS).
A refreshed bootloader would likely need to be unlocked; depends where keys are held (above my wage grade). Risks include potential result data loss and/or bricking the device should the flash goes bad; a twiddled bit can yield a very bad day at the office. I view the last two as unlikly but would be remiss in not mentioning the possibility.
@draxie - thoughts?
genie in the battery...
Davey126 said:
I find it interesting the battery indicator also does not work when booted into a custom recovery (TWRP)
which operates independently from whatever lives in the system partition (eg: LinOS).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Independent is a relative term in this case, I'd posit.
Based on my quick read of this thread, that battery
appears to enter some weird state from time to time,
gets stuck there for a while, only to get "unstuck" for
no obvious reason after some random period in limbo.
The only firm conclusion I could make is that neither
LineageOS nor TWRP have the chops to systematically
pull the battery out of limbo. In other words, when it's
stuck, it simply doesn't show up in either... (Now, why
LineageOS decides to show a missing battery as fully
charged is beyond me, but that's beside the point.)
To me, that implies a strong dependence in how each
'partition' will behave, since that appears to be fully
determined by the state of the battery.
The more interesting question is what triggers the limbo.
Based on the first few posts, I had the theory that Lineage
was clearly to blame (as I haven't found any mention of
the "good state" going bad while in TWRP), but then post#5
made me less sure, as it gave the impression that booting
into TWRP _when_everything_worked_ in Lineage caused
the battery to go missing again...
BTW, what I find *most* curious is that 'dumpsys battery'
output in post#4. If that was really generated from 'adb'
(as opposed to a terminal emulator on the device itself),
'USB powered: false' is decidedly not what I would expect.
Here's the output of the same command on my test Thor:
Code:
[B][email protected]:/ # dumpsys battery [/B]
Current Battery Service state:
AC powered: false
USB powered: true
Wireless powered: false
status: 2
health: 2
present: true
level: 87
scale: 100
voltage: 4175
current now: 606000
temperature: 256
technology: Li-ion
I attribute the fact that the fields are different to me running FireOS,
but it may also be indicative of different drivers/device definitions.
Also the discrepancy in the temperature readings (256 vs 358) may be
a cause for alarm (depending on the ambient temperature there at the
time; I don't have a thermometer, but I'd guess it's around 23-25C here).
Davey126 said:
A refreshed bootloader would likely need to be unlocked; depends where keys are held (above my wage grade). Risks include potential result data loss and/or bricking the device should the flash goes bad; a twiddled bit can yield a very bad day at the office. I view the last two as unlikly but would be remiss in not mentioning the possibility.
@draxie - thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you mean flashing the very same vulnerable bootloader to the aboot
partition anew by a "refreshed bootloader", then you wouldn't need to
unlock again (i.e. the device "stays unlocked"), unless you flash another
version in between. On the other hand, I'm not quite sure what you
expect to gain from flashing a bit for bit identical image... (if it wasn't
the device wouldn't even boot; the bootloader is also signed).
Instead, I'd suggest to test running with FireOS for a few days (there's
no way to get closer to stock, if you can stand it) and see if the battery
still behaves erratically. If so, you should probably consider swapping it
(although, the root cause could easily be a _related_ HW component
and not the battery itself). I have a hard time seeing this as a pure SW
issue in LineageOS, since we should have seen plenty more reports (or,
at least, more meetoos on this thread). I've tested Lineage briefly on
this test Thor and haven't seen anything similar.
draxie said:
Instead, I'd suggest to test running with FireOS for a few days (there's
no way to get closer to stock, if you can stand it) and see if the battery
still behaves erratically. If so, you should probably consider swapping it
(although, the root cause could easily be a _related_ HW component
and not the battery itself). I have a hard time seeing this as a pure SW
issue in LineageOS, since we should have seen plenty more reports (or,
at least, more meetoos on this thread). I've tested Lineage briefly on
this test Thor and haven't seen anything similar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you draxie for you're precise analysis and help.
I'm still operating LinageOS. It's very stable now.
I don't know what sends the battery object to limbo but it seems like I found a solution to get it out there:
I've found out after the battery indicator stayed in limbo for approx. 10 days.
I've always used a USB-Charger with only 500mA through out this period.
But recently I have incidentally used another power source (Anker 28W Wall-Charger) with a original Kindle USB-Cable. After booting (because battery run totally empty before) it started with 5% battery indicator and its behaviour normal.
In the beginning (of this thread) I often changed chargers and cables (1 A Apple charger, USB-charging via Laptop, 2 A "China-noname" charger, 1.5 A Sony Charger) so it would explain the random behaviour.
So I have the theory it all depends on the charger and USB-cable to cause this issue with my device.
However I will try with the weak 500 mA charger if I can send the battery indicator to limbo with it. After this I hope I can confirm you that the strong charger and original cable can recover the battery indicator.
Necronomynus said:
Thank you draxie for you're precise analysis and help.
I'm still operating LinageOS. It's very stable now.
I don't know what sends the battery object to limbo but it seems like I found a solution to get it out there:
I've found out after the battery indicator stayed in limbo for approx. 10 days.
I've always used a USB-Charger with only 500mA through out this period.
But recently I have incidentally used another power source (Anker 28W Wall-Charger) with a original Kindle USB-Cable. After booting (because battery run totally empty before) it started with 5% battery indicator and its behaviour normal.
In the beginning (of this thread) I often changed chargers and cables (1 A Apple charger, USB-charging via Laptop, 2 A "China-noname" charger, 1.5 A Sony Charger) so it would explain the random behaviour.
So I have the theory it all depends on the charger and USB-cable to cause this issue with my device.
However I will try with the weak 500 mA charger if I can send the battery indicator to limbo with it. After this I hope I can confirm you that the strong charger and original cable can recover the battery indicator.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info!
Chargers having a short-term effect sounds plausible to me.
And, so does the propensity of aging batteries to act erratically.
I guess we could be looking at the combination of both....
How often do you need to charge your Kindle?
My 4-year-old Apollo is having trouble keeping up with my
usage patterns. Some days I have to charge twice.
And, the battery indicator does behave _somewhat_ odd,
when charge is around 10% (it can jump back up to 25%, when
going from idle to heavy use [why?!?], or it can drop dead
from 7%; but sometimes it's still ticking with 0% ).
Recently, it has also started to complain about the stock
charger that came with it as being "low power"...
Related
DISCLAIMER - I am just putting this in here so that if anyone gets any funny ideas ... Whatever you read/use in this How-TO Post is at your own RISK. The aim of this post is to help others who had the same issues as me when they were abroad ... and were stuck without a mobile Running MGLDR 1.13 and DFT stock ROM (WP7) and a USB cable but no other chargers ... If the OS doesn't boot you WON'T manage to charge via USB UNLESS you follow this HOW TO GUIDE (it's the ONLY ALTERNATIVE YOU HAVE OTHER THAN BUYING A CRADLE CHARGER) ... it WORKS 100% but I am fed up of finnicky people emailing /posting / trying to play the "experts" on the matter when they know nothing about the matter
Dear all
After going through all sorts of Registry fixes which were momentary in nature. I decided to find a viable alternative which does in actual fact work with all current WP7 builds and all MGLDR's provided with a USB Storage option.
It has been said that the WP7 Software does not charge the battery to its full potential. I also incidentally ran into the problem of charging the mobile when the battery died. Primarily because the mobile loads ... restarts ... loads ... restarts and you keep on "praying" until the OS boots to get it charged.
Alternative fixes so far which worked for me were:
- Adding android to your SD Card ..booting in android and charging it in android mode
- Charging it in Cradle Charger
- Some people even pulled out 2 wires from a USB cable (+ve and -ve) to get their phone on again (crazy and dangerious)
- MGLDR 1.12 hangs when trying to charge mobile while it is off.
- MGLDR 1.13 reboots (as a momentary fix) in order to avoid the hanging caused in 1.12
Problem is
- I can't stand the fact that we have to have 2 OS'es to get it charged properly
- I can't stand the fact the we have to remove the battery in order to get it charged externally via cradle charger
So we have to adapt to the present circumstances unfortunately. If nothing, and the fix does not give you more battery life, this method avoids you from
- buying/carrying a cradle charger with you when abroad.
- having a dual boot system (WP7 / Android) on your phone
- making you do crazy/quick fixes such as the USB cable thingy mentioned above ... (don't try it)
no need for anything of that!
HOW TO:
So in a nutshell if you drained your battery too much and don't have a cradle charger ... with the added bonus that you may get improved battery life out of WP7 is the following.
- Boot into MGLDR setup menu (hold the end call button at start up)
- Boot your mobile and hold the "End Call button" to go into the MGLDR setup screen.
- Choose USB Storage menu
- METHOD A - Let the mobile Charge for 6 hours (typically overnight would be ideal) (Note: It will not over-charge and it will not damage your battery.
OR
- METHOD B - Charge the mobile for 4 hours (to keep mobile on overnight) and charge the last hour in usb-mass storage mode. This has the added benefit that you do not get your screen on for a long time. This will not damage your battery and those of you who are worried about over-charge can go for this alternative and not take any risks.
- NOTE that you will NOT get the charging indicator ON in this mode. PRECISELY that's the whole point of charging in this mode, the battery will charge to its fullest as it is not under the influence of the WP7 software. It is like as if you put the battery in a cradle charger and charged it outside.
- When you wake up ... hit the back button to go to main menu and choose RESET option to reboot your mobile : ) and voila!
RESULTS:
- I got improved battery life charging the mobile in this MODE. I got 36 hrs + of battery life (normal usage) which is very good.
ADDED BENEFIT: QUICKFIX FOR DEAD BATTERY - NO CRADLE CHARGER - NO DUAL BOOT
- There seems to be mixed feelings about this as some of the readers have reported no discenable difference in battery performance. While I will not contradict these people, I got improved longevity from the HD2's battery. Clearly the OS is reporting the battery level badly. If NOTHING this method still serves as a quick fix
- if you drained your battery and cannot get your HD2 on again
AND
- You Do not own a cradle charger
- Registry did not work for me.
SETTINGS - WHICH IMPROVE BATTERY LIFE:
- You can optimise settings as follows in order to get my same results, again I hear many of you not wanting this as it turns of features from their PDA but as I said above, we have to adapt for the time being:
Settings are -
- ROM DFT Stock ROM original build (issued 13/01/2011)
- Radio 2.15
- Screen timeout 30 seconds
- Screen brightness set to auto
- Wifi turned off (on only when needed)
- Bluetooth turned off (on only when needed)
- Location turned off (on only when needed)
- Data Connection turned off (on only when needing to check mail)
- Email sync turned off (not every 30 mins)
- 3g turned ON - UPDATED - I got better battery life with 3G ON but this may change from country to country so I suggest that you have a go with 3G being ON or OFF and see which is better for you....)
IF YOU USE THIS POST - HIT THE THANKS BUTTON - IT's the LEAST you could do!
Regards all
Alcatraz
Hi Alcatrazx,
sounds logical I´ll give it a try and report later, thanks.
pronor
Thx
Thx Bro!
Will try it later too. I'll report.
One question though... Do you need to do this everytime you charge your phone, or just the first charge?
Sounds interesting, I will try and report
tardcutt said:
One question though... Do you need to do this everytime you charge your phone, or just the first charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like you have to do everytime... If you reboot your WP7, the battery is under the influence of the software again and does not charge correctly. Beat me if I'm wrong
Very interesting. I will try it
It's a good idea for some times, but I would not use it as an every night thing.
I sometimes get calls or messages during the night (and usually they are important). Another thing is that if you use your phone to wake you up this will not work at all.
I hope WP7 development progresses and solves this issue in the upcoming updates.
Nevertheless it's a nice way of going by, and thanks for taking the time to test it and post about it.
PS: does the light turn green after 6hours of charging or not. Probably not, but worth asking .
Another solution should be to charge a second battery in an external charger...
pronor
Another issue with this "workaround" is that MAGLDR keeps the screen opened, which can cause some devices to overheat, so be cautious with this one. I say that an external charger is the smartest alternative. I actually use this method and it works perfectly.
karendar said:
Another issue with this "workaround" is that MAGLDR keeps the screen opened, which can cause some devices to overheat, so be cautious with this one. I say that an external charger is the smartest alternative. I actually use this method and it works perfectly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to sound pessimistic, BUT, people have already reported clearly in other Threads that they have tried the solution of charging their battery using an external charger with no luck. I can't see how this is any different. In addition, 6 hours will probably kill your battery in the long run (overcharging) - I have queried HTC support about it in the past.
Simple enough mate! Though 6 hours of battery charging will probably make significant damage to your HD2 battery... HD2 normally will charge in about 1 and a half hour or 2 udner WM6.5 or Android!
Not bad idea though! Bravo..
Charging while in Android remains for me the most convenient option. I must say though that this battery issue in wp7 is not that obvious for me. The phone charges quite well in wp7 and only sometimes I feel the need for a restart, after which the percentage increases with 15, not more.
most chargers since the beginning of time have a battery cut off, when the charger unit detects the polarity is starting to reverse it switches off, of course i cant say for sure using the MAGLDR method would use this, potentially it could just be a case of "connecting two wires to a battery" which as you guys have pointed out would not been good, at worst your battery could get seriously hot, or potentially if you reverse the battery polarity enough you would have half of a battery thats unusable.
I think what should be taken from this however, is that like myself and other have been saying for a long time, if your battery is charged propperly it will last a long longer, people reporting empty batteries within 20 odd hours, in my opinion, either have dud batteries or are not charging them properly
the MAJOR plus side to this post is the ability to fix the empty battery restart issue, that alone makes this idea a gold star and should be stickied!
dazza9075 said:
most chargers since the beginning of time have a battery cut off, when the charger unit detects the polarity is starting to reverse it switches off, of course i cant say for sure using the MAGLDR method would use this, potentially it could just be a case of "connecting two wires to a battery" which as you guys have pointed out would not been good, at worst your battery could get seriously hot, or potentially if you reverse the battery polarity enough you would have half of a battery thats unusable.
I think what should be taken from this however, is that like myself and other have been saying for a long time, if your battery is charged propperly it will last a long longer, people reporting empty batteries within 20 odd hours, in my opinion, either have dud batteries or are not charging them properly
the MAJOR plus side to this post is the ability to fix the empty battery restart issue, that alone makes this idea a gold star and should be stickied!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
People reporting these batteries issues my friend are people who are knowledgable enough to reach to xda-developers forums - i.e. people who have a pretty good understanding of what battery drainage is and whether their batteries are dying or not; who have installed a number of winmo roms, android roms etc.
there are roms that drain battery and others that handle power better. in the ports of Windows Phone 7 for HTC HD2 there is an issue with battery drainage, and thats a fact.
There is no issue with bat drainage but with false bat stat reporting.
TheOnly1 said:
There is no issue with bat drainage but with false bat stat reporting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats the true Sir but how fix it
TheOnly1 said:
There is no issue with bat drainage but with false bat stat reporting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, thats what i was saying, apparently not very well
ndamianou said:
People reporting these batteries issues my friend are people who are knowledgable enough to reach to xda-developers forums - i.e. people who have a pretty good understanding of what battery drainage is and whether their batteries are dying or not; who have installed a number of winmo roms, android roms etc.
there are roms that drain battery and others that handle power better. in the ports of Windows Phone 7 for HTC HD2 there is an issue with battery drainage, and thats a fact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
your level of wit and sarcasm is actually quite funny given that you completely got my point wrong, the issue is quite simply this, the drivers for our HD2 are copies from another device, a device that is similar but not the same, the issues we have with battery are down to the fact that WE do not know if the battery is charged or not, at least at a first glance, and given the inability of many people on here to actually read threads and posts correctly it is not beyond the realm of possibility that many users dont know what level there battery is charged to, thus it may not be charged propperly.
If windows reports a full battery and its only half full then it will "appear" to empty twice as quick, now i think thats pretty clear for every one?
huismeester said:
Thats the true Sir but how fix it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
we cant
our phone must be different to a degree than the phone this ROM is based off otherwise we wouldnt have the issue, lets all assume for a second we can actually start chopping and changing files in WP7 like WM. We would need to find some sort of driver that exactly matches our HD2 and i doubt that will happen.
whoever made the driver isnt going to just bring out a new version for an old peice of hardware that isnt supported by MS, perhaps if a new piece of hardware has the same battery controller as us something can be done.....maybe
huismeester said:
Thats the true Sir but how fix it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have the following options:
1. Try the registry tweak. That worked for me and I actually have no battery issues for the last 2 weeks or so.
2. Charge the battery under Android during the night. That's pretty usable as you only need to reboot and you still have a fully functional phone Way better IMO than the USB Mass Storage trick.
I have a minimal Android installation on my SD (Angry Birds, you know) and it currently reports roughly the same values as WP7.
Interesting article on Rootzwiki:
Wiping Battery Stats is Pointless, Says Google Jan 13 2012 09:30 PM | Ashley Glenn in Articles
Over time wiping battery stats has become a regular ritual among the Android enthusiast community. Buy a new battery? Wipe your battery stats! Upgrade to a bigger battery? Wipe your battery stats! Change kernels or restore a nandroid backup? You know what to do: wipe battery stats! But this ritual may soon become a thing of the past thanks to Google engineer Dianne Hackborn, who sheds a light on the subject that puts the tightly-held practice of wiping battery stats in the same league as carrying a lucky rabbit's foot or throwing a pinch of spilled salt over your shoulder.
Recommending that users wipe their battery stats appears in so many places and as a cure for so many ills that it has become ubiquitous. Adherents to this practice will sit and wait for their phones to report a full charge, then use an app that deletes the batterystats.bin file or reboot into recovery mode and wipe it from there. This supposedly cures a number of ills such as battery scaling issues, poor battery percentage reporting, and any of a myriad other number of issues. The truth is, according to Android Framework Engineer Dianne Hackborn, that this file is a repository for information about system activity and that it actually takes care of itself without the need for user intervention. From Dianne's post:
Quote
This file is used to maintain, across reboots, low-level data about the kinds of operations the device and your apps are doing between battery changes. That is, it is solely used to compute the blame for battery usage shown in the "Battery Use" UI in settings.
That is, it has deeply significant things like "app X held a wake lock for 2 minutes" and "the screen was on at 60% brightness for 10 minutes."
It has no impact on the current battery level shown to you.
It has no impact on your battery life.
Deleting it is not going to do anything to make your more device more fantastic and wonderful... well, unless you have some deep hatred for seeing anything shown in the battery usage UI. And anyway, it is reset every time you unplug from power with a relatively full charge (thus why the battery usage UI data resets at that point), so this would be a much easier way to make it go away.
It really can't be put more straightforward than that, folks. So rest assured next time you put a new battery in or flash a new kernel or restore an old backup that all you have to do to help your phone or tablet play nice with its battery is charge it to 100% and do nothing else. It really is that simple. But don't worry, enthusiasts - you'll find plenty of other reasons to hang out in recovery anyway.
Know of a sweet app, trick, mod, or hack for your Android device? Send us a tip! [email protected]
Sent from my MB870 using xda premium
This is interesting, so Google engineering will incorporate it into new OTA's? Or does this mean I've wasted time while flashing countless Roms?
Pixelation said:
This is interesting, so Google engineering will incorporate it into new OTA's? Or does this mean I've wasted time while flashing countless Roms?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm reading this as we've been wasting time.
Sent from my MB870 using xda premium
Not wasting time flashing countless roms. Just wasting time wiping battery stats. That's the way it looks to me. Personally, I've always thought wiping battery stats was nothing but a whole lot of voodoo. Never had the need for it, don't see why anybody else would either. Let the flames begin.
I knew it couldn't possibly have an effect on actual battery life, but I thought maybe the file collected information about the length of the battery to calibrate the meter (because let's face it, with the X2 battery bug it's pretty clear that it doesn't get the value directly from the battery).
Funny thing about calibrating when it gets to 100 though...if there truly is something wrong with the meter, why would you suddenly trust it to know when it's charged? This is why I'd always charge it for a little extra and go by the voltage meter.
So basically, I've seen a couple of different readings. I've always waited past 100% and in different ROMs I've seen 4192, 4196, 4198, & 4200 mah.
I use the extended battery, sooooo readings may vary between regular battery.
Pixelation said:
So basically, I've seen a couple of different readings. I've always waited past 100% and in different ROMs I've seen 4192, 4196, 4198, & 4200 mah.
I use the extended battery, sooooo readings may vary between regular battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an extended battery as well. Actually, I have two extended batteries and two regular batteries. Got the first one with my droid X, then a faulty extended battery (bad batch where the meter doesn't read right), then a replacement extended battery, then the one that came with my X2. No two are the same, but they should all max out near 4200 mV.
Edit: I use one extended battery.
Ok this screen is after install of CM 7 tonight, it reads 4205 mah, so why is it different, with different Roms?
Weird isn't it?
Pixelation said:
Edit: I use one extended battery.
Ok this screen is after install of CM 7 tonight, it reads 4205 mah, so why is it different, with different Roms?
Weird isn't it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stats can easily drift if you don't flash ROMs with your phone at 100% battery, hence why sometimes the calibration is needed [be sure to wipe stats when at 100% [either via app or recovery], best thing to do is fully discharge battery until auto off occurs and then fully charge with AC Wall Adapter and charge only screen, then when it hits 100% wait a few min, restart to OS to be sure it also says 100% [if not wait until it does and wait about 20 min longer] then restart to recovery and flash away [you could also wipe battery stats as part of flash if you do as stated before flashing]. I usually set it up so I fully discharge the phone [restarting to be sure a couple to few times] and then charge with phone off and charge only screen overnight and flash my ROM first thing in the morning right before I unplug it and unplug once I reach the point I am ready to restart device and do initial boot after flashing. Further details below...
Basically charge to 100% [or as absolutely close as you can get it [AC Wall charger is best unless you REALLY are forced to do it via USB and is best to charge via the charge only screen [phone is powered off and not booted in to the OS and all you normally see is just a battery filling on screen [and is fastest way to charge battery]]. Wait an additional 20 - 30 min after it registers 100% [this is to be sure the battery is absolutely topped off essentially] and I will generally do a restart as sometimes the battery may come back to less than 100% on a restart if your phone is not judging the battery right and is in need of calibration. If it does not register after restart wait until it hits 100% and wait the additional 20 min [you can cut out the initial 20 min wait if you want to do the restart to verify just wait the 20 min once you feel sure battery is as topped off as you can get it], then after wiping restart from recovery and unplug. Now be sure to drain the battery until auto shutoff [either stream media if in a hurry or through general usage. Either way wait until auto shut off.]. I usually will power the device back on and be sure it is not going to get back to the OS [if it even gets to boot logo I wait a few seconds and power it on again to be sure all I get is the boot vibrate on my device [some don't have this, but usually it's tablets almost all phones [and definitely both Motorola and Samsung do this]. I then charge it to full [again AC wall charger recommended as above and again with charge only, but as stated if you cant live with phone off or whatever you can do it with OS running as well. You are free to go as you wish after this second full charge really though if you do a couple more [dont have to be insane] it can help ensure the statistics get a good start.
As I believe I stated above the best way to avoid calibration as long as possible is to charge phone to 100% via phone off screen [with AC Adapter and wait the extra 20 min after it registers full before you flash [I will sometimes take it a step further, leave it plugged in while flashing my install zips and then once I go to restart system for the initial boot after ROM flash I will unplug the charger from the phone.
Hope this helps
Hi Folks,
I'm on Cyanogenmod 11, running M5. I've been having problems with my battery gauge (or both batteries themselves) since early April nightlies.
The low-level battery gauge shown when the phone is off and charging seems accurate, but the gauge in the OS is all over the place, and will go from 90% to 2% in seconds, then shutdown. I might also be confusing the battery stats by swapping batteries; I don't know.
Is there a way to disable the shutdown? (For what it's worth, I went looking for "reset battery stats" in my modern Clockwork Mod Recovery, but couldn't find it. I don't know if that would help or not.)
I've seen people talk about being able to disable the critical battery shutdown in Xposed, but I know nothing about Xposed, and I'd rather not get into if not completely necessary.
Thanks,
Jamie
Try to do a recharge cycle each month.
Let your battery to be fully over so the phone won't turn on anymore, then recharge it back to 100% without turning the phone on.
Then again let it become dead then repeat the charging process 3 times to recalibrate the Battery meters on the device.
AFAIK "Reset Battery Stats" was removed from newer versions of CWM since it didn't have any effect or actually done anything.
If the above solution doesn't work you can also try the app called "battery calibration", i know that it work for me even if a lot of people are saying that it do nothing :good:
Well, I've tried both of the above, but no luck. I'm back to wondering if there's a way to disable the critical battery shutdown until my Moto G order arrives. The phone's unusable, as it is.
As always some brilliant advice, completely draining li-ion batteries can damage them, doing it multiple times deliberately is just flat out stupid.
I can't get the Xposed DisableCriticalBatteryShutdown module to work, either (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=52833676&postcount=78), so I'm still looking for a way to do this, by whatever means necessary.
Jamie Jackson said:
I can't get the Xposed DisableCriticalBatteryShutdown module to work, either (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=52833676&postcount=78), so I'm still looking for a way to do this, by whatever means necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I´v tryied this module under CyanogenMod 13, Android 6.0
But no success, still looking for the same solution!
Just to encourage this approach, i´m gonna tell what´s happening with my phone.
It goes down to 0% of battery and it shutdown, after that I boot it to the recovery (Clockworkmod) and it stays there with bright screen for more the 3 hours without shutting down!
So 0 % of battery is like 50%!
According to battery university, the optimal charge level for storage is 40%, and it's best to limit your depth of discharge as much as possible. Thinkpads have had a function to do just that, with the excellent tp_smapi module enabling the functionality under Linux.
I turns out Nexus 10 with OmniROM has a way to disable charging even when the AC power is plugged in via the file /sys/devices/virtual/power_supply/manta-battery/charge_enabled. I've created a script that uses this functionality to keep charge between 35%-55%. You can modify STOPLIMIT and STARTLIMIT to with desired charge levels. You can optionally create /data/local/etc/battery/STOPLIMIT and /data/local/etc/battery/STARTLIMIT and put the values in there. Those values would override the values in the script.
I start the service with 3C Toolbox Pro with a script that calls
Code:
su -c /data/local/bin/charge_control.sh &
Requirements:
Device: Nexus 10
ROM: OmniROM HOMEMADE20141102
Rooted
busybox installed
The ROM can be found in this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2705229
It may work under other configurations, but above is the configuration I've tested it under. Battery university reference: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
Expected increase in battery longevity
Battery longevity (to 80% original life) should increase from under 1 year to over 5 years by using this script. More below.
The battery university article indicates the battery will last from 300-500 cycles with a full depth of discharge, and 150-250 cycles with maximum charge voltage of 4.3V. The Nexus 10 does charge with very high voltages above 4.3V to get the battery to 100% charge. That means your battery will last less than a year in the most extreme cases. For example, your battery will have 80% capacity after 300 days if you do a full charge every other day with 4.3V. My device reached the 80% battery life cycle in about 1 year, and then got progressively and rapidly worse, until I replaced the battery with 40% original life after 20 months.
With this script, battery life should increase to 1200-2500 cycles between 25%-50% depth of discharge, and 1200-2000 cycles with battery voltage limited to under 4V at full charge. So battery life should increase to 6.5 years up to over 13 years charging it up to 55% every day!
I have had this tablet since release and always plug it into the charger when going to sleep. I typically use the device from 100% to 60% each day. This device is over 2 years old now and still has the same screen on time each charge cycle as day one.
Thanks for sharing.
esprout said:
According to battery university, the optimal charge level for storage is 40%, and it's best to limit your depth of discharge as much as possible. Thinkpads have had a function to do just that, with the excellent tp_smapi module enabling the functionality under Linux.
I turns out Nexus 10 with OmniROM has a way to disable charging even when the AC power is plugged in via the file /sys/devices/virtual/power_supply/manta-battery/charge_enabled. I've created a script that uses this functionality to keep charge between 35%-55%. You can modify STOPLIMIT and STARTLIMIT to with desired charge levels. You can optionally create /data/local/etc/battery/STOPLIMIT and /data/local/etc/battery/STARTLIMIT and put the values in there. Those values would override the values in the script.
I start the service with 3C Toolbox Pro with a script that calls
Code:
su -c /data/local/bin/charge_control.sh &
Requirements:
Device: Nexus 10
ROM: OmniROM HOMEMADE20141102
Rooted
busybox installed
The ROM can be found in this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2705229
It may work under other configurations, but above is the configuration I've tested it under. Battery university reference: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you point me in the right direction so that I could run this script? I'm on Dirty Unicorns ROM.
omgi0wn said:
Could you point me in the right direction so that I could run this script? I'm on Dirty Unicorns ROM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check that your kernel supports the system interface /sys/devices/virtual/power_supply/manta-battery/charge_enabled. You need to be rooted, and then you can open a terminal and
Code:
cat /sys/devices/virtual/power_supply/manta-battery/charge_enabled
to make sure the file exists to control charging.
The script also relies on /sys/devices/virtual/power_supply/manta-battery/capacity to check battery capacity. You can similarly check with:
Code:
cat /sys/devices/virtual/power_supply/manta-battery/capacity
But if you have charge_enabled in that folder, you most likely also have capacity as well.
After that, you would simply run the script with ./charge_control.sh &
mymusicathome said:
I have had this tablet since release and always plug it into the charger when going to sleep. I typically use the device from 100% to 60% each day. This device is over 2 years old now and still has the same screen on time each charge cycle as day one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like someone won the battery lottery. My tablet shuts down before it even gets to 50% charge these days, it's super frustrating.
Has anyone tried this on stock Lollipop?
_Raziel666 said:
Has anyone tried this on stock Lollipop?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Confirm work on stock Lollipop 5.1.1 (LMY48I).
Since,
Code:
/sys/devices/virtual/power_supply/manta-battery/capacity
was not found, after some time of browsing I've found
Code:
/sys/devices/virtual/power_supply/manta-battery/subsystem/ds2784-fuelgauge/capacity
You'll need to modify the respective line 22 in script to
Code:
charge=$(cat /sys/devices/virtual/power_supply/manta-battery/subsystem/ds2784-fuelgauge/capacity)
Good advice.. I usually change it to 80% seems to still last a lot and I got it 1 month after the release.
I never charge it to 100% since I know it will mess up the battery.
Is it possible to find "charge_enabled" for Nexus 7 (2013, flo, razor) in Android KitKat 4.4.4?
"online" and "capacity" can be found easily in "sys/class/power_supply".
I've tried "lsof | grep healthd", but didn't identify read/write flag "charge_enabled" or similar.
Recently found a solution by customizing kernel here: Battery life extender
However applying this patch to stock kernel is not a solution for ordinary user.
shcholeh said:
Recently found a solution by customizing kernel here: Battery life extender
However applying this patch to stock kernel is not a solution for ordinary user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did it work for you? If so, can you tell me what control files you edited and what android version you are on?
Im on LineageOS 14.1 and i tried changing the enable_charge value to one but the app still said my device is not supported (yet).
PowerOFF Prevents Accidental Battery Drain.
The main issue with the Tablet has been a dead battery, not turning on and showing a battery symbol.
The condition has been associated with the Tablet been brick as it just kill itself, I will call it Suicidal Mode.
From my experience and by coincidence I have seen how a Tablet that has been off for days will turn on by itself.
Once a Tablet turns on by itself, it boots into the moboot menu and then to the default OS, Android or Recovery.
It will stay on until the battery gets depleted then it shutdown, without the user been aware of the Tablet's Suicidal Mode.
Another possible scenario is when traveling with the Tablet. Sometimes it needs to be pack or place in storage.
It only takes the power button to accidentally get press for the Tablet to boot and drain the battery.
There is no option or command in moboot to select shutdown by default when the Tablet turns on, paving the way for the Suicidal Mode to be executed.
The solution is PowerOFF, if by any means the Tablet turn on accidentally and the user is not aware it will turn off automatically preventing booting into Android or Recovery.
When to Flash PowerOFF:
When taking the Tablet on a trip or is going to be handle unsupervised.
The Tablet will not be use for a period of time or place in storage.
The user does not want the Tablet to automatically boot into Android or Recovery, but stay off.
If the Tablet is full charge and place in normal room temperature it should last approximately 6 month or more.
The following files can be flash in TWRP Recovery:
Click HERE to Download PowerOFF
1. Flash_PowerOFF.zip -- Copy uImage.PowerOFF into boot and makes it the boot default.
2. Remove_PowerOFF.zip -- Remove PowerOFF from boot and makes Recovery the boot default.
To make the Android version the boot default, re-flash the HpTp from the already flashed ROM.
There is no need to re-flash the ROM.
If the /boot partition is full and PowerOFF can not be flash or work properly then flash:
Clean_Boot_Remove_All_ROM_Boot_Files.zip
It will create a backup of /boot into the Micro SD Card.
Delete all Android boot images, freeing space to copy PowerOFF.
How PowerOFF works.
The flash file by FLINTMAN-update-TWRP-touch-data_media-SELINUX-TEST-Build_4-25-14.zip
Is modified and reduced to turn off the Tablet instead of launching TWRP.
The size of PowerOFF is 5.1MB which allows it to coexist in the boot partition with TWRP Recovery 3.2.1 and any Android boot uImage.
Many thanks @flintman for porting TWRP Recovery to the HP Touchpad that has made it possible to flash any ROM, also for all the great Android ROMs....!
I can unequivocally say I have never had any of the 4 TouchPads I have owned in the last 9 years turn on by themselves. I have never before now heard the topic discussed in any TouchPad thread or forum. If one properly packs their tablet for a trip, it should not get inadvertently turned on by the power button getting pressed while packed in your luggage. That being said, lucky you to own one that does. My question is, once your modified version of TWRP is installed, I guess that your TouchPad sits there, turns itself on and then your UImage turns it off. Then it turns on again and then it turns off. I wonder how long before your TouchPad runs out of battery sitting there turning itself on and off? Maybe you should install a battery disconnect switch instead.
So the question is, does this keep a TouchPad turned off or is it going to sit there and cycle on and off?
smithylovestouchpad said:
So the question is, does this keep a TouchPad turned off or is it going to sit there and cycle on and off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Tablet will be kept off.
Shutdown ( permanent off ) PowerOFF
Reboot ( turns off, then on )
PowerOFF is the same command used in Android and TWRP Recovery to shutdown the device.
By having PowerOFF as the default in the moboot menu, is guarantee that the Tablet will turn off automatically and prevent a battery drain when it gets turn on by accident.
A simple test:
Tablet is off, but connected by USB cable to any PC or Laptop that are also off.
Once the PC turns on, it triggers the Tablet connect to it by USB to come on. It will boot into Android or Recovery.
When the PC is turn off and the user forgets to turn off the Tablet, it will keep working until it shutdown for low battery (only in Android) in Recovery will be a total battery drain.
The Tablet can be off and connected to the wall outlet any spike in electricity will trigger the Tablet to come on.
Because is connected to the outlet it will keep charging and nothing will happen to the battery, unless for some reason it gets overheated.
But if the user does not want it to automatically boot into Android or Recovery it will always be kept OFF.
PowerOFF is like a safety option that will prevent the Tablet to be ON unattended; without the user be aware.
So if I interpret you correctly:
Shutdown ( permanent off ) PowerOFF
Reboot ( turns off, then on )
if a TouchPad with your version of TWRP in /boot, if the tablet gets turned on by accident or for some other reason that you describe, it willn be turned off. You said you have a TouchPad that turns on by itself. You did not explain why it does this. The point I am making is, if a TouchPad turns on, your TWRP will turn it off. If it turns on again, your TWRP will turn it off. So theoretically, a TouchPad could sit there turning on and off until the battery died. Am I correct? There is no permanent off, just the version of TWRP that keeps turning the TouchPad off every time it turns itself on.
I had mine do this on occasion over the years.
Mostly due to operator error. I'd power it off and then place it Power Button side down...
Also on travel I've packed 'em wrong and they would be dead when I got 'em out of my case. Again operator error...
I've also seen them just boot up on their own resting on a stand in landscape position. I attribute this to the 'gremlins' I have running around my place.
middle_road said:
I had mine do this on occasion over the years.
Mostly due to operator error. I'd power it off and then place it Power Button side down...
Also on travel I've packed 'em wrong and they would be dead when I got 'em out of my case. Again operator error...
I've also seen them just boot up on their own resting on a stand in landscape position. I attribute this to the 'gremlins' I have running around my place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My question still remains if you pack your TP in your baggage resting on the power button, is this fix going to prevent your tablet from cycling on and off or are your gremlins going to have fun turning your TP on every time this fix turns it off? If that is the case, I don't see the value in putting this modified version of TWRP in /boot.
Smithy
middle_road said:
I had mine do this on occasion over the years.
Mostly due to operator error. I'd power it off and then place it Power Button side down...
I will call that, design error. The Power Button on mobile devices should be flush with the casing to prevent accidental contact.
Also on travel I've packed 'em wrong and they would be dead when I got 'em out of my case. Again operator error...
Unless the Tablet is pack in it's original cardboard box when traveling, it will be difficult to predict what it could happen. There are too many variables on traveling to define a perfect way to pack it, is unpredictable even on an airline you may not get your luggage at all.
I've also seen them just boot up on their own resting on a stand in landscape position. I attribute this to the 'gremlins' I have running around my place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have also seen by coincidence a Tablet booting up, just place flat on a table. When the Tablets are full charged and place in normal room temperature, the battery should last for about 6 months or more with no need to recharge it or getting completely drain.
Last month a couple of Tablets got full charge and place on a table. One day as I was passing by the screen turn on into moboot and then to Recovery as there was no OS installed, then I turn it off and did not give it any importance. Over two weeks ago I try to turn on the same Tablet, but nothing will happen. Place it on the wireless charger and the Home Button LED light came on moving side to side, after some time the Low Battery symbols came on and then after some hours it booted into Recovery. The other Tablet also had a drain battery but it booted into the Low Battery symbol. That is when I decided to look for a way to keep the Tablet off if by any means got turn on and PowerOFF was my solution.
I am not saying that all Tablets do turn on by themselves but some do and that can explain why some users report of dead batteries and others pull a Tablet that has been stored in a drawer for long time and still have battery remaining.
What could cause a Tablet to turn on by itself?
I do not have an answer, but only speculations.
((( Electrical spike (surge) of the battery that tricks the charging board that it got plug into a PC or charger...... )))
smithylovestouchpad said:
My question still remains if you pack your TP in your baggage resting on the power button, is this fix going to prevent your tablet from cycling on and off
By "accident" if the Power Button gets press inside the baggage, it will take less than a minute to be turn off.
For the Tablet to possibly cycle on and off repeatedly the Power Button needs to be press constantly.
If the Power Button is in constant pressure in the baggage eventually it could get damage.
or are your gremlins going to have fun turning your TP on every time this fix turns it off? If that is the case, I don't see the value in putting this modified version of TWRP in /boot.
Smithy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If a gremlin decides to turn on the Tablet, it will automatically turn off preventing more gremlins damage and a possible data breach.
PowerOFF is gremlin-proof, it does not provide any visual feedback to keep them entertain, they will quickly acknowledge the Tablet is already malfunctioning and not working moving on to the next mobile device " Your Smartphone"
HP_TOUCHPAD said:
If a gremlin decides to turn on the Tablet, it will automatically turn off preventing more gremlins damage and a possible data breach.
PowerOFF is gremlin-proof, it does not provide any visual feedback to keep them entertain, they will quickly acknowledge the Tablet is already malfunctioning and not working moving on to the next mobile device " Your Smartphone"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you have answered my question. If someone has a TP that has a propensity to turn itself on, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted. If a TP gets turned on by accident, for whatever reason, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted.
You should be aware that your suggestion that a person should charge their TP to 100% to store it is not recommended by lithium battery manufacturers.
From PowerStream.com:
The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge.
PowerStream Note: Test data confirms that storage of lithium-ion batteries is best if the cell is partially discharged. In one test by Cadex Electronics ( http://www.buchmann.ca ) after 1 year storage at 25°C the non-recoverable capacity remaining is 96% when stored at 40% initial charge level, but only 80% if stored with 100% initial charge level. This effect is reduced at lower temperature and is a non-issue at 0°C. At higher temperatures the effect is much worse. Cadex's recommendations are to store below 15° C at 40% of full charge (3.5 volts per cell). Our experience is that with cells stored at room temperature for 3 years that the non-recoverable capacity did not decrease, so this is probably manufacturer dependent.
I also have good news for you, Middle_Road's reference to gremlins is only metaphorical. Gremlins are only mythical creatures invented to entertain readers of fantasy literature not attack your TouchPad or Smart Phone. So your devices are safe. :cyclops:
smithylovestouchpad said:
So you have answered my question. If someone has a TP that has a propensity to turn itself on, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted. If a TP gets turned on by accident, for whatever reason, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted.
You should be aware that your suggestion that a person should charge their TP to 100% to store it is not recommended by lithium battery manufacturers.
From PowerStream.com:
The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge.
PowerStream Note: Test data confirms that storage of lithium-ion batteries is best if the cell is partially discharged. In one test by Cadex Electronics ( http://www.buchmann.ca ) after 1 year storage at 25°C the non-recoverable capacity remaining is 96% when stored at 40% initial charge level, but only 80% if stored with 100% initial charge level. This effect is reduced at lower temperature and is a non-issue at 0°C. At higher temperatures the effect is much worse. Cadex's recommendations are to store below 15° C at 40% of full charge (3.5 volts per cell). Our experience is that with cells stored at room temperature for 3 years that the non-recoverable capacity did not decrease, so this is probably manufacturer dependent.
I also have good news for you, Middle_Road's reference to gremlins is only metaphorical. Gremlins are only mythical creatures invented to entertain readers of fantasy literature not attack your TouchPad or Smart Phone. So your devices are safe. :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is why, usually, your new-in-box device is only partially charged when you unpack it.
Gremlins: They weren't 'invented', they were 'created' based on real world observation and experiences.
So when something happens that can't be explained easily, the Gremlins are guilty until proven innocent.
Especially when dealing with electrons.
...
..
.
middle_road said:
That is why, usually, your new-in-box device is only partially charged when you unpack it.
Gremlins: They weren't 'invented', they were 'created' based on real world observation and experiences.
So when something happens that can't be explained easily, the Gremlins are guilty until proven innocent.
Especially when dealing with electrons.
...
..
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ROTFLMAF......
My bad,
I also have good news for you, Middle_Road's reference to gremlins is only metaphorical. They were 'created' based on real world observation and experiences. So when something happens that can't be explained easily, the Gremlins are guilty until proven innocent. They will not attack your TouchPad or Smart Phone. So your devices are safe.
How's that?
smithylovestouchpad said:
So you have answered my question. If someone has a TP that has a propensity to turn itself on, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off.
The Tablet will be kept OFF in the same way as it gets turn off in Android, Recovery or moboot menu is all the same.
So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted.
There has been no reports of a Tablet "constantly" turning on by itself. That is your own theory that it has not been witness or proof, of a Tablet turning back on after just been turn off. There is a difference between "constantly" and "predisposition".
If a TP gets turned on by accident, for whatever reason, your modified TWRP will turn it off but not keep it turned off. So a TP could sit there, turn on, and turn off until the battery is depleted.
To keep any mobile device permanently off, the battery must be disconnected or removed.
Once the Tablet is off is not going to turn on right away, the Gremlin must come and do it again. Maybe you should ask them how often they are going around turning on the Tablets to prove your theory that the battery will get depleted by the use of PowerOFF.
You should be aware that your suggestion that a person should charge their TP to 100% to store it is not recommended by lithium battery manufacturers.
My suggestions comes from the user manual by HP, attached is the link and the screenshot.
It does not mentioned for storage, but constant use.
Click HERE for the HPTP User Manual
From PowerStream.com:
The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge.
PowerStream Note: Test data confirms that storage of lithium-ion batteries is best if the cell is partially discharged. In one test by Cadex Electronics ( http://www.buchmann.ca ) after 1 year storage at 25°C the non-recoverable capacity remaining is 96% when stored at 40% initial charge level, but only 80% if stored with 100% initial charge level. This effect is reduced at lower temperature and is a non-issue at 0°C. At higher temperatures the effect is much worse.
Temperature is the KEY factor, the environment must be cold and dry. Placing any Device in a regular freezer will make the battery last longer but the humidity could damage other internal components.
Cadex's recommendations are to store below 15° C at 40% of full charge (3.5 volts per cell). Our experience is that with cells stored at room temperature for 3 years that the non-recoverable capacity did not decrease, so this is probably manufacturer dependent.
I also have good news for you, Middle_Road's reference to gremlins is only metaphorical. Gremlins are only mythical creatures invented to entertain readers of fantasy literature not attack your TouchPad or Smart Phone. So your devices are safe. :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am aware of the Gremlins terminology, @middle_road already gave a great explanation !
You said: When the Tablets are full charged and place in normal room temperature, the battery should last for about 6 months or more with no need to recharge it or getting completely drain.
Lithium battery manufacturers recommend not doing that. "The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge."
SIX MONTHS is considered storing a device.
That page from the HP manual has nothing to do with putting your TP away for a long period of time such as you suggest, 6 months. It has to do with every day usage and how to make your battery last longer. If someone even plans to stop using their device for a couple of months, they should drain the battery to between 30 and 50% and then put it away.
Gads, no need to yell, easy on the caps and large fonts.
smithylovestouchpad said:
You said: When the Tablets are full charged and place in normal room temperature, the battery should last for about 6 months or more with no need to recharge it or getting completely drain.
Yes, that recommendation is based on real life usage and not base on lab test that only takes weeks or hours, complete details below.
Lithium battery manufacturers recommend not doing that. "The batteries should be stored at room temperature, charged to about 30 to 50% of capacity. We recommend that the batteries be charged about once per year to prevent overdischarge."
SIX MONTHS is considered storing a device.
My original Tablet from the fire sale has always been charge the opposite, all details below.
That page from the HP manual has nothing to do with putting your TP away for a long period of time such as you suggest, 6 months. It has to do with every day usage and how to make your battery last longer. If someone even plans to stop using their device for a couple of months, they should drain the battery to between 30 and 50% and then put it away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All devices manufactures include in the manual to fully charge the battery before use and always keep it charge. It does not make any sense at any time to only charge the battery 50-80% to last longer. The device must have a completely full charge battery to get the most out of during use, is common sense.
As for storage, my real life experience has been completely different.
Charging the HP Touchad for that past 3018 days.
My original HPTP 32GB that I bought the very first day of the fire sale on August 20 of 2011 from hhgregg on 10:20 am EST. ( Receipt available )
From: Saturday, August 20, 2011 To Saturday, November 23, 2019 the day of this post it has been:
8 years, 3 months, 4 days or
99 months, 4 days or
431 weeks and 1 day or
3018 days or
72,432 hours or
4,345,920 minutes or
260,755,200 seconds.
The Tablet currently has a perfectly working WebOS, set up to tripple boot into Android (Pie) or LuneOS.
Most of the use has been done in WebOS until late 2016 and has been used as follow:
Full charge to 100 % and after some portable used, recharged to 100 % and place it away, it has always been inside the cover and charge with the regular wall charger.
By 2017 I started using Android more on another pre-owned Tablet and the original has been on a desk inside the cover. It gets fully 1005 charged and turn off.
Some times it has been more than 6 month before it gets turn to check on battery.
I do not know specifically how many times the battery got completely drained, but it did occurred maybe more than 4 times.
The following data and screenshot are of the mentioned Tablet showing the Health Status of the battery.
To get the current and proper battery capacity use this guide:
Click HERE for Novacom command list
open a command prompt or terminal on a PC with the novacom driver an enter:
novacom -t open tty://
then
battery status
to finish enter poweroff or reboot
Code:
[email protected]:~$ novacom -t open tty://
battery status
battery present
voltage: 4113840
percentage: 100
current: -861562
capacity: 6483200
] a6 version
A6 Version: HW Ver: 12, FW Ver (major): 2, FW Ver (minor): 13, Fw Ver (build): 25, Pkg Rev: 12
] poweroff
Sat Nov 23 14:57:51 2019
novacomd socket was closed prematurely
novacom: unexpected EOF from server
The App Dr. Battery in WebOS is used to check on the battery status, attached are screenshots.
The Kernel in WebOS provides all the proper information to the Apps as is the native and provides 100% support to all the hardware including the a6 battery chip.
Click HERE for Dr. Battery forum
The battery is at 93 % capacity, almost as new and according to all the battery manufactures " Lab Test" it should have been dead long time ago.
The Tablet room temperature has always been around 80 - 85 Fahrenheit ( 26 - 29 Celsius ) not the idea of 59F (15C)
It has always been kept full charge when not in use.
This has been a real life test of 3018 days, not in a Lab, an artificial control environment of charging and discharging rapidly.
From my experiences Lab test can provide certain important data but only Time and true usage is the final answer.
There is no way a manufacture can accurate test a product in a short period of time to replicate its real time life expectancy.
Only the user could provide the results after been using the product in a certain way for a prolong period of time.
It will be interesting if current users could issue the command novacom -t open tty:// battery status and report the capacity of the battery.
HP_TOUCHPAD said:
All devices manufactures include in the manual to fully charge the battery before use and always keep it charge. It does not make any sense at any time to only charge the battery 50-80% to last longer. The device must have a completely full charge battery to get the most out of during use, is common sense.
As for storage, my real life experience has been completely different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your real life experience does not supersede the manufacturer's recommendations on how to properly prepare a lithium battery for STORAGE or periods of non-use such as 6 months. Why would you choose to recommend doing something that goes completely against what the manufacturer suggests?
---------- Post added at 01:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:15 AM ----------
HP_TOUCHPAD said:
My original HPTP 32GB that I bought the very first day of the fire sale on August 20 of 2011 from hhgregg on 10:20 am EST. ( Receipt available )
From: Saturday, August 20, 2011 To Saturday, November 23, 2019 the day of this post it has been:
8 years, 3 months, 4 days or
99 months, 4 days or
431 weeks and 1 day or
3018 days or
72,432 hours or
4,345,920 minutes or
260,755,200 seconds.
The Tablet currently has a perfectly working WebOS, set up to tripple boot into Android (Pie) or LuneOS.
Most of the use has been done in WebOS until late 2016 and has been used as follow:
Full charge to 100 % and after some portable used, recharged to 100 % and place it away, it has always been inside the cover and charge with the regular wall charger.
By 2017 I started using Android more on another pre-owned Tablet and the original has been on a desk inside the cover. It gets fully 1005 charged and turn off.
Some times it has been more than 6 month before it gets turn to check on battery.
I do not know specifically how many times the battery got completely drained, but it did occurred maybe more than 4 times.
The following data and screenshot are of the mentioned Tablet showing the Health Status of the battery.
To get the current and proper battery capacity use this guide:
Click HERE for Novacom command list
open a command prompt or terminal on a PC with the novacom driver an enter:
novacom -t open tty://
then
battery status
to finish enter poweroff or reboot
Code:
[email protected]:~$ novacom -t open tty://
battery status
battery present
voltage: 4113840
percentage: 100
current: -861562
capacity: 6483200
] a6 version
A6 Version: HW Ver: 12, FW Ver (major): 2, FW Ver (minor): 13, Fw Ver (build): 25, Pkg Rev: 12
] poweroff
Sat Nov 23 14:57:51 2019
novacomd socket was closed prematurely
novacom: unexpected EOF from server
The App Dr. Battery in WebOS is used to check on the battery status, attached are screenshots.
The Kernel in WebOS provides all the proper information to the Apps as is the native and provides 100% support to all the hardware including the a6 battery chip.
Click HERE for Dr. Battery forum
The battery is at 93 % capacity, almost as new and according to all the battery manufactures " Lab Test" it should have been dead long time ago.
The Tablet room temperature has always been around 80 - 85 Fahrenheit ( 26 - 29 Celsius ) not the idea of 59F (15C)
It has always been kept full charge when not in use.
This has been a real life test of 3018 days, not in a Lab, an artificial control environment of charging and discharging rapidly.
From my experiences Lab test can provide certain important data but only Time and true usage is the final answer.
There is no way a manufacture can accurate test a product in a short period of time to replicate its real time life expectancy.
Only the user could provide the results after been using the product in a certain way for a prolong period of time.
It will be interesting if current users could issue the command novacom -t open tty:// battery status and report the capacity of the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't believe you would waste all this time and effort to thumb your nose in the face of what the companies that manufacture these batteries recommend. Any smart person would choose to believe what they recommend rather than you.
We haven't even touched on what the current philosophy concerning the charging of lithium batteries is today. It's called the 40/80 rule. Try not to discharge your battery below 40% and stop charging when it reaches 80%. This helps give you maximum battery life.
https://www.csmonitor.com/Technology/Tech/2014/0103/40-80-rule-New-tip-for-extending-battery-life
Just like the recommendation to set the charge to around 50% to store a lithium battery, the 40/80 rule for charging is just a recommendation if you want to get the maximum life from your battery. But I suppose you will take issue with that too since it does not fall into your real life experience.
---------- Post added at 02:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:51 AM ----------
middle_road said:
Gads, no need to yell, easy on the caps and large fonts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sometimes one has to speak a little louder to get through to someone who does not listen very well. And he is definitely hard of hearing when it suits him. His inability to accept real facts as presented it typical for him. He lives in his own distorted reality that does not mesh with the rest of the world. Sad
Look at his response to what I said. What alternate reality is he living in?
smithylovestouchpad said:
Your real life experience does not supersede the manufacturer's recommendations on how to properly prepare a lithium battery for STORAGE or periods of non-use such as 6 months. Why would you choose to recommend doing something that goes completely against what the manufacturer suggests?
Post the link from the battery manufacture that HP outsourced and place it in the Tablet, that state what you have read from other sources that do not produce any batteries at all.
Technically the battery in the Tablet is a Lithium Polymer and was made by Amperex Technology Limited, this is the web site of the real manufacture.
https://www.atlbattery.com/en/index.html
Attached are all the parts and the manufactures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't believe you would waste all this time and effort to thumb your nose in the face of what the companies that manufacture these batteries recommend. Any smart person would choose to believe what they recommend rather than you.
I have provided the screenshots, proof or real test of over 8 years. Post the link of a test that was conducted for that long.
We haven't even touched on what the current philosophy concerning the charging of lithium batteries is today. It's called the 40/80 rule. Try not to discharge your battery below 40% and stop charging when it reaches 80%. This helps give you maximum battery life.
The controller (chip) is programed by the device manufacture in this case by HP to take that into consideration. When the battery is showing 100 % charge is not using the full capacity of the battery. That is why HP and all other device manufactures states to fully charge the device before use, it does not say 80 %.
Show me in any manual where it says to charge at only 80 %.
https://www.csmonitor.com/Technology/Tech/2014/0103/40-80-rule-New-tip-for-extending-battery-life
Just like the recommendation to set the charge to around 50% to store a lithium battery, the 40/80 rule for charging is just a recommendation if you want to get the maximum life from your battery. But I suppose you will take issue with that too since it does not fall into your real life experience.
You got to learn the meaning of many words beginning with " recommendation ".
---------- Post added at 02:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:51 AM ----------
Sometimes one has to speak a little louder to get through to someone who does not listen very well. And he is definitely hard of hearing when it suits him. His inability to accept real facts as presented it typical for him. He lives in his own distorted reality that does not mesh with the rest of the world. Sad
Look at his response to what I said. What alternate reality is he living in?[/QUOTE]
I provided my real facts, I am not repeating general information that does not apply specifically to the Tablet.
Prove me wrong and post a screenshot of your Tablet showing the capacity available using:
novacom -t open tty://
battery status
"Technically the battery in the Tablet is a Lithium Polymer"
I never said it wasn't.
"I provided my real facts, I am not repeating general information that does not apply specifically to the Tablet."
Any information from reputable sources about lithium batteries applies to the battery in the TouchPad.
"Show me in any manual where it says to charge at only 80 %."
I never said it was in any manual, I said it was the current philosophy concerning the charging of lithium batteries. Where did you learn to read?
"I have provided the screenshots, proof or real test of over 8 years. "
8 years of screen shots does not supersede the recommendations of legitimate sources of information about charging lithium batteries.
"Prove me wrong and post a screenshot of your Tablet showing the capacity available"
Why would I want to do that? I know exactly how my battery is doing using Battery Monitor Widget.