hello, i buy used Asus ZenWatch 2 without charging cable. Cable already ordered but it’ll arrived after 20 days. At this time i want make charging cable by my self, but i don’t have USB pin outs. Can any body test and send me photo of pins. I record sample how to do it
youtu.be/JBqRQ1FZ5DQ
please draw connectors with cable dimok.kz/wp-content/uploads/pinouts.jpg
Thank you
Use at your own risk.
In text here are the pinouts. Crappy Paint Reference image attached.
if you need it drawn by hand i can do so but it will be some time before I will be able to.
For reference pin 1 is the one closest to the cable and 4 the furthest from the cable
pin 1 = D-
pin 2 = D+
pin 3 = V+
pin 4 = Ground
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Lrs121 said:
Use at your own risk.
In text here are the pinouts. Crappy Paint Reference image attached.
if you need it drawn by hand i can do so but it will be some time before I will be able to.
For reference pin 1 is the one closest to the cable and 4 the furthest from the cable
pin 1 = D-
pin 2 = D+
pin 3 = V+
pin 4 = Ground
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much, very helpful, now using my watch.
Lrs121 said:
Use at your own risk.
In text here are the pinouts. Crappy Paint Reference image attached.
if you need it drawn by hand i can do so but it will be some time before I will be able to.
For reference pin 1 is the one closest to the cable and 4 the furthest from the cable
pin 1 = D-
pin 2 = D+
pin 3 = V+
pin 4 = Ground
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Crappy paint is still better than a bad, blurry picture
You saved my day. Thanks!
do not pull the pins out instead just solder four small dots of metal on the contact points at back of the watch, i did it works perfectly now, earlier it stopped charging. now works great
Related
This modification was done because I love my Nook Color as my XBMC Remote control for my entertainment center yet I hate to have to wire it to charge it every night.
1x Nook Color
1x Verizon Wireless Charging Inductive Battery Cover
1x Verizon Wireless Charging Pad
Video Demonstration: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jDCfnLNAv4
How To:
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Step 1: Tear apart the wireless charger from the back cover.
Step 2: Use a SHARP scissor to cut around the components until you have just the coil and the pcb board.
Step 3: Use a solder iron to remove the two gold BLOCKS and leave the solder pads.
Step 4: Take thin wire and wire up the + from the picture to the + of the Charge Pad and the Nook Color.
Step 5: Take thin wire and wire up the - from the picture to the - of the Charge Pad and the Nook Color.
Step 6: Thread the wires and position the charge cover directly in the middle of the battery.
Step 7: Close it up and test it out!
Sorry I posted this in the wrong sub-forum.
Link to the final thread
Freaking awesome and not that expensive. When I get some spending money I'll have to give it a shot!
What is the charge rate like? PC/USB rate I assume?
Grats on an AWESOME mod!
So the inductive charger is inside the NC? Do you have pictures of that?
And what's the charge rate?
khaytsus said:
So the inductive charger is inside the NC? Do you have pictures of that?
And what's the charge rate?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes its in the actual case, Pictures tomorrow.
That is bad ass man!
Ian
pictures would certainly help
xboxexpert said:
Yes its in the actual case, Pictures tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I don't see the posted pictures of the Nook modification, and would really like to see what you've done to package the changes.
Thnx
Hello,
Background:
I have a G-Tab that I've had for a while. I started noticing that the case would get really hot when charging. I removed the back cover, and felt the batteries and the felt fine to the touch. I then touched one of the integrated circuits (see images) and burned a nice rectangle into my finger tip. This chip and the other one of this type on the other side of the board get really hot. I haven't kept the tablet unplugged for several days now in fear this chip will "blow" and possibly take other components with it.
These chips are marked as:
7C9F 359
As shown in the second image. Both sides of the mainboard have this chip, and both get hot; as shown in the third image.
I also have a Cube U30GT2 that has a chip similar to this one, but marked as:
2015CS AD1364.
These seem to do something with voltage regulation. The ones on the G-Tab board are near to the full sized USB, and the Mini-USB plugs. The one on the U30GT2 is coming off the battery connection.
Now to my Question:
Can anyone help me identify these chips, and what they do; and, for bonus points, possibly tell me what can be done to fix this issue?
So far, I've checked for shorts between the pins on the chips on the G-Tab board; between the power plug and the ground plane and found none.
I have also looked for reference USB circuit designs to take a look at what those reference for these types of chips. I downloaded the Tegra 2 Technical Reference manual, but that only shows block diagrams of the USB interfaces.
Thanks in advance for any help provided.
Images:
Image 1:
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Image 2
Image 3
The charging circuit in these tabs is what is known as a linear regulator that will produce heat because it's dropping the difference between the charger voltage and battery voltage. Make sure that you don't use anything but a 9V charger.
Hi guys,
just wanna share with you my experience. I'm a big fan of wireless charging; I'm using Nokia's wireless charging plates (DT-900) at home and at work. The only one missed point - charging in a car... Yes, I know about Nokia's wireless car charger but:
- I can't find it on sale in US;
- $90 is too much for that kind of stuff (I think so!);
- I already have a very nice phone holder and don't need second one.
So, I've decided to make car charger by myself. Parts used:
- Nokia wireless charging plate DT-900 (bought on sale - slickdeals.net rulezz! - $19.95 total)
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- 12V/1 A DC car charger - $3.99
- sticky pads (it's optional - will explain below)
- scotch double-sided transparent mounting tape (I already have)
Total is $29.40
The only "tricky" part is to replace car charger connector by the original Nokia's connector (Nokia's socket is thinner). You'll need a multimeter for this job. Cut both cables, strip the wires. Attach Nokia's connector to car charger (you may just twist the wires) and check the polarity (this is important!). Polarity should be positive! Connect multimeter's ground (black one) to the external side of the connector, and put pin of red probe inside. You should see +13.4 V but not -13.4 V. Now you may solder wires (for better connectivity) or just twist 'em strong and put adhesive tape on it.
You are almost done. Cut the sticky pad by the shape of charging plate. Put mounting scotch on the back of charging plate and attach to the car. Instead of sticky pad you may use two narrow strips of the double sided scotch but sticky pad looks more "professional"
Result should looks like
Hey there guys today I'm going to show you how to repair your usb cable (top part) if the cable has been broken! If the cable has been suddenly dead and you see that one of your 4 inner cables are partially broken!)
What you need:
A screw driver or something that can tear loose the plastic part on the top of the cable (or something similar) I'm a screw driver)
This is what i used:
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Now be careful we don't want to break anything! we want to be able to use the parts again after you fixed the steps
Once you taken the plastic part of and that damn rubber thingy
You'll see 2 metallic peaces that holds together everything. Be careful when taking these away these are useful!
Once they are removed you should have a cable looking like this
Now the tricky part is to not start to remove the green part and pull the cables out. make sure you remember the order! else it won't charge! (See picture) for correct order!
Picture taken from downside of the usb
Picture taken from upper side of the usb
NOTE The 4 cables needs to have same length so they all get connected properly!
Once you put them in correctly put back the green part and the black part, press so you hear a slightly click!
Once done put the metallic parts back (the one that is inside of the other is bottom part) the metallic that goes above the other one is top part!
Once done put back the plastic on and you're done! :highfive:
I know it looks horrible but at least the cable is working!
Nice Guide
And thank you for taking time to post.
Yes i already knew how to do this BUT for the noobies a handy guide
Over here in uk as we are lazy buggers we pop to the Pound shop and grab another!
Careful with getting another one
Cheap USB cables are 24/24 and can only provide 300-500mA power,
you need a proper quality 24/28 cable that is certified to atleast 1200mA for the Lg G3, and a 2A cable is recommended.
its a bit more expensive
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker®-5-Pa...id=1429352682&sr=8-6&keywords=micro+usb+cable
But when you notice that your phone is charging twice as fast as that PoS you got at poundland you know its worth the money.
A fastboot, also called a "factory" cable is NOT the cable that came with your device from the factory. It is a cable used BY the factory to put a kindle into fastboot mode. It must be purchased or made. you can made it by yourself easily.
Micro USB come with 5 point as shown in the below picture
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Items needed:
Micro usb cable
Very small wire (like red or green cable at your micro side)
Soldering iron and solder/ Tweezer
Small pair of diagonal cutters
Sharp knife
Now what you have to do
Take the micro end of the usb cable and carefully strip away the plastic
Encasing. Now you should see some tin foil looking stuff you are going to have to peel this away and discard it, under it is some paper white covering again peel away and discard.
The wire has some outside shielding wire that you'll have to discard a small amount of, most cheap wires don't have this shield anyway.
Now you should see these wires:
Red
Green
White
Black
you have to connect VCC (Red) cable with ID point (in which no wire would be connected)
you can sold these two point with cable or can also use tweezer to shot this point
In the picture below I have three points at this side VCC (Red), D+(Green) and Ground (Black) I have sold green cable with red one from this side
picture shown below is the other side of the Micro USB in which only white cable was sold and one point was empty so I sold the green cable at empty point you can also use tweezer to connect this point
Can it apply to Kindle Fire HD 10 9th (2019)? My device suddenly dead without any signal, checked battery still at 4V but can't powered it on