Related
Specific to KGL
I've had the KGL variant for a couple of weeks. Since I've had my share of Chinese Android devices of all sorts - I kind of knew what to expect in terms of software.. so I wasn't really disappointed BUT... the hands free in this unit was simply unusable... After getting my wife totally upset and my friends pissed at me for calling them using the unit I knew something had to be done.
So I took it apart.
Being that I'm skilled in electronics and pretty much hands-on, I figured out the problem pretty fast. Or should I say "problems" in plural?
Let me start by saying that if you have the KGL variant and suffer from extreme noise bleeding into the mic - there is no software workaround. You either need to send it back and get something else or open and modify it like I did.
Second - the hardware in this thing is of such low quality, and the design is so bad, it makes me cry. I estimate the production cost of this unit is under $50. Pretty pretty low... even for Chinese stuff.
So.. what's the story with the mic noise, you ask? very simple. The mic signal from the front panel is routed unshielded from a small PCB attached to the panel, via 3 PCBs and 2 ribbon cables, for over 15" until it arrives at the Bluetooth module MIC input. On the way, it picks up so much electrical noise and interference it's almost a miracle that you hear anything but static noise. When an external mic is plugged it, the front panel mic is NOT disconnected. Both are electrically connected in parallel which is unheard of (very bad practice). The Bluetooth module is thus responsible for MIC bias and preamp. The BT module is of unknown source and it's hard to tell what quality to expect there (not much, as we all know). Noise cancellation? echo cancellation? forget it!
Now - we know android needs an audio input - we can have some voice activation on the unit, right? so how is it done? simple! the signal from the BT mic input line is run back to the front panel and into a Wolfson CODEC. Just like that... so that the Android audio in would also suffer from the above issues.
This also explains the exact nature of the unit's BT implementation - the handsfree is not done by the Android - it's completely handled by the BT module. BT module has MIC in, AUDIO out (that goes to the BD37534 audio mixer chip) and RS232 control signals that communicate with the Android BT application for User Interface (probably via AT commands).
When you run an Android app that uses audio input - it comes from the Wolfson CODEC but it's essentialy the same lousy MIC signal that the BT also gets.
BUT!!!
I've made some modifications and lo and behold - I can make a good quality phone conversation now! and the google apps have somewhat better performance too... but it did require me to completely mess up the internal wiring and obviously void the priceless warranty
So after I've figured it out - I decided I needed to do the following:
- Give up the option to work with two mics at the same time and opt for the external mic only for voice calls
- Cut and bypass the original traces since they pick up so much noise
- Add a separate input jack for the external microphone since it was not feasible to cut the lines going into the original one
I started by installing the extra jack on the rear panel. Then I removed a jumper 0ohm resistor at the MIC input to the BT module, disconnecting the MIC input from the circuit. I ran a piece of shielded wire from the new jack to the MIC input signal pin ON the BT board. That completed the hands-free modification.
In order for the Android to have some audio input, I then moved to the front panel, and first installed a 0Ohm jumper that was missing by the WM8731 CODEC. This resistor connects the MIC BIAS pin to the MIC input - it is required when using an electret microphone. I then made a cut in the trace from the front panel microphone to the small PCB connector, and ran a piece of shielded wire from the mic terminals to the WM8731 MIC input.
Now the front mic is only for Android (voice commands etc) and the external mic serves hands free.. I could have probably added some smarter electronics but I don't think it would have added anything to the usage experience.
Let me know if anyone is interested in some pictures I've taken and I will upload.
Crappy piece of equipment but at least now it works.
All the best,
Nir
...
Moderation note form dark alex:
these are pictures which belong to dnts' tutorial and research
harlequin69 said:
Great work and thank you for sharing. I can follow most of what you did there except for adding the jumper to the CODEC due to electret mic use, do you have any pics of this? also why did you choose to use both mics in the end? would it not be better to use the external mic for both BT and android?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding external mic for both BT and Android - here is the catch - you need to add a buffer (amplifier circuit) to the mic signal before sending it to two destinations (BT and CODEC) otherwise you will get that awful noise back. The microphones have a high output impedance which makes them prone to electrical noise. Even if you run them using shielded wire to two locations - you will be picking up noise via the ground signal due to the high impedance.
So to keep things simple (for now) I opted for separate mics, with the higher quality one for calls.
As for the required jumper, I attached a pic. The red circle around the empty pads shows where you need to put a short. The green line shows where you would connect the internal mic. Either pad works (they are shorted on the PCB).
Nir
Specific for KGL
From the top of my head.. sorry for that.. Please use pics in my previous posts.
1. Remove unit. Remove screws holding front panel to the chassis (this varies from one car model to another - mine is KIA Sportage).
2. Carefully lay down front panel. Take notice of the two ribbon cables and don't pull them
3. Remove chassis top cover (2 side screws and one screw on the back).
4. Remove optical drive - 4 screws hold it in place. Carefully disconnect ribbon cable.
5. Install 3.5mm mono jack on the rear panel - 2 holes are available for that (those reserved for DTV antenna). Wire a piece of shielded conductor to the jack, shield going to the part touching the chassis (sleeve) and internal conductor going to the "tip" contact.
6. Locate BT module. It will be at the right side of the chassis (eyeing from front), close to the front end of the PCB.
7. Near the BT module, on the main PCB, locate the component marked "C32". It should be marked "0". Remove it. This is a jumper connecting the BT MIC input to the microphones.
8. Connect the other end of the shielded conductor to the BT module to the pin labeled "MIC+". Do if from the back size of the module. Secure the shielded wire in several places so it doesn't loose up over time.
At this point, the external mic will be the only source for BT audio in. It should (obviously) connected to the new jack we installed.
9. Locate the PCB holding the microphone to the front panel. Locate the PCB trace from the lower microphone terminal (the other terminal is connected to the ground plane of the PCB). make a cut to that trace.
10. Prepare another shielded conductor. connect shied to the mic terminal that is grounded (top one) and the internal conductor to the terminal connected to the trace we just cut. (please see picture titled "front mic").
11. Locate WM8731 CODEC chip. Identify missing "R45" pads (only vacant pads near the WM8731 chip). Make a jumper using some solder and a piece of wire. This calls for delicate soldering.
12. Connect other end of mic conductor to the pad of R42 and R45 further away from WM8731 (please see picture titled "CODEC connection")
13. Put everything back together - start with ribbon for the optical drive, 4 screws for the drive, top cover of chassis and front panel. Make sure, before securing the front panel, that the two ribbon cables are well connected and have not moved or shifted inside their connectors.
14. Cross fingers and connect back to power.
You're done.
Nir
Relax, don't do it!
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Specific for JY
tomc99 said:
I did find a capacitor linking the BT module on my JY unit, but removing it didn't give me the results I needed, so that's when I moved to cutting the leg on the BT module.
I seem to get some bias at the microphone socket - maybe a little low, from memory around 1.7 volts, but no audio whatsoever.
A little bit of a mystery to me is that after cutting the leg on the module the internal mic is now virtually clear of all buzzing that was evident beforehand.
I may spend a few hours this weekend and set it up on my bench power supply and have a better play with it.
Tom.
Sent from my GT-N5100 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
dgcruzing said:
Ok...I need to do this as got that horrible Mike thing going with Bluetooth..
I still need to get my head around the best way to do it..
Best way is going to have to print this thread and work out a plan of attack..
At the moment I have not plugged in the mike at back but been using the front Mike for Bluetooth calls..and of course no one can hear me..
As for Bluetooth coming out to speaks..that all works fine..
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm with you pal. This is pretty confusing, especially when you take into account the different models of the head units. I want to improve my mic, but I don't want to mess up and make it worse.
If anyone with a joying unit wants to put together an idiots guide to this mod, I would send a huge thank you your way. [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tdopko said:
Specific for JY
I have a G2110 model( which is a Joyous JY) that suffered with bad buzzing and echoing when using hands free. In stock form testing internal MIC with sound recorder there was no issue. Recording was clear. When I made hand-free call buzzing and reverb sound occurred. I read over and over about the external mic modification and decided to try it. Opened up HU and located C32 which was actually located toward the front center of the unit. I removed it and tested and same issues occurred. I then reconnect C32 as it was apparent that this was not the correct one on this board. I then took advise of previous posts that the cap should be located somewhere near the Bluetooth module so did continuity checks from the + of internal MIC to the caps near the Bluetooth module. I found C102(located seemed to connect to internal MIC on one side and the Bluetooth Mic + on the other. I decided to remove that and test. After removal internal MIC still functioned but hands-free was dead. I am assuming that this was the correct cap that needed to be removed. I did not do anything to the legs of the actual module. I did add an external jack to the backside of the module per the previous posts on how to add external MIC. After I completed the task I tested and the two appear to be separated and the hand-free external seems to function. I still get a little reverb noise but nothing like it was. I am not an electrical guru so I'm not sure if what I did is correct but it seems to have helped somewhat. I took some pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I did my soldering too. I found that my microphone is on pin connection infront of BT module and it is connected through c102 jumper. So i cut that microphone and solder it on back of BT module on mic+ and mic-. Problem is that when I call the internal mic is on and external is not working or is off. I am not sure if the external mic was ever on and I did talk thorough internal mic. Can you just tell me what did you solder to what?
Thank you
dsa8310 said:
I have followed the microphone recipe in post #3964, and here is my experience:
Separation between the Android internal mic and the hands-free external mic is definitely a great solution. With the external mic connected directly to the BT module (and capacitor C32 removed) people tell me that they cannot say that I am using hands-free - the call quality has become that good.
Connecting the internal mic directly to the CODEC chip - not a good idea, unless you have proper tools and you know what you are doing. In fact, Skype and Google Search, both work beautifully with no need for any further change.
Beware, the image in post #3971 , detailing where to connect the mic IS WRONG! The mic should be connected where the strap between the two empty pads is made (in order to have the mic powered with chip's bias voltage). Only the pad at the left end of the green line is OK for mic connection.
I had to redo the soldering, after looking up the chip's pin-out, and this was the end of my empty pads... (overheating with improper tools). With no bias voltage, I could no longer connect the mic directly.
And since I had already cut the mic trace on board, I couldn't reconnect my internal mic, other than using a shielded wire which went outside the unit and into the available external mic socket. Thanks Huifei for your thoughtful design!
And now, my internal mic, even wired through the external mic socket, works perfectly for Android. I got lucky...
So, my advice, stick to the first part of the recipe, it's a must for phone quality hands-free calls, but relax, don't do it - the second part calls for trouble and seems unnecessary, really.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you all for the very useful information that you give us every day,
I am owner of a KLD. Specifically a Witson A7047.
I ask you please to be able to summarize in detail the operations to be done in order to make the modification of the microphone.
As I understand, I should find the capacitor C32 and remove it.
I miss, however, the passage for connecting external microphone.
Excuse my trivial question, but understand little of electronics and I have to carry the equipment by the technician. Obviously I will have to explain what to do.
Thanks for the answer
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Aender84 said:
hello, i'm also using a joying head unit and i have the same problems with my mic. Until now i only used the unit internal mic and the external one is not even connected. Has any of you managed to do any mod (not requiring too much of electronics skills since i dont have any)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The external mic is better than the internal, but it is still not great. It makes a lot of electrical noise on the other end if the phone call. There are some instructions for mic mod here, but I have also read that the joying units are a little different than those details here. I haven't tried it yet, so I can't help any more than that.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Aender84 said:
But is there any way to still use the car existing mic? My car already had a stock Bluetooth installed so I also heve the mic for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that I am aware of. It would have to be routed through the Android unit somehow. Otherwise it wouldn't switch automatically when you receive a call. That is if it can even be done at all. I suspect that the Bluetooth module was in the stock radio unit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Aender84 said:
I believe is a matter of wiring. The Bluetooth unit was not embedded in the original headunit, so probably there is a way to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure about that? Maybe yours is different than mine. I have the jbl, non-nav unit. I can't access anything to do with the Bluetooth now that I've removed the head unit.
If you're only saying that he can wire the original microphone into the Android unit, that may be possible. It's the same as wiring any external microphone I guess.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have not possibility to hardware mod.
No software mod can help me?if i buy a bt mic?or bt handfree kit?
Inviato dal mio SM-G920F utilizzando Tapatalk
Why I need this mod?
- Because unit use microphone/s for android and Bt calls, which are connected together. That make the mic very weak and sound bad, just like you connect two speaker on one speaker output. So if we separate fro each input other mic then everything is fix
How to do Mic separation?
1 - First you need external Mic (any good mic is ok), and an external mic jack.
2 - Cut pin 4 instead of remove c32 (much easier and easiest to fix if something goes wrong.)
3 - Use shielded cable/s (I use fat speakers cables and shielded enough) and solder pin4 + to the back of the module and pin5 - to the front of the module (I was lazy enough and don't want to remove board that why). You can solder both of them to the back and everything will be ok.
4 - No needed any other mod as internal mic is used only by android and its sound is good enough now.
Now BT calls are perfect. I use my old pioneer microphone.
My other work
1. Radio fix http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...od-radio-frequencies-filter-fix-kgl4-t3279439
2. Red apps. http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...ent/mod-red-music-movie-dvd-bt-radio-t3278054
And PICTURES ofcourse
hadjistyllis said:
Why I need this mod?
- Because unit use microphone/s for android and Bt calls, which are connected together. That make the mic very weak and sound bad, just like you connect two speaker on one speaker output. So if we separate fro each input other mic then everything is fix
How to do Mic separation?
1 - First you need external Mic (any good mic is ok), and an external mic jack.
2 - Cut pin 4 instead of remove c32 (much easier and easiest to fix if something goes wrong.)
3 - Use shielded cable/s (I use fat speakers cables and shielded enough) and solder pin4 + to the back of the module and pin5 - to the front of the module (I was lazy enough and don't want to remove board that why). You can solder both of them to the back and everything will be ok.
4 - No needed any other mod as internal mic is used only by android and its sound is good enough now.
Now BT calls are perfect. I use my old pioneer microphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please can you tell me how to exactly connect mine jack? I have two wires from jack and I need to know to which pins or points I have to connect them.
Thank you
ReVolte11 said:
Please can you tell me how to exactly connect mine jack? I have two wires from jack and I need to know to which pins or points I have to connect them.
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Solder positive (+) to pin4 and negative (-) to pin5 (positive is the top of jack).
But FIRST cut pin4 to separate bt card from mainboard.
hadjistyllis said:
Solder positive (+) to pin4 and negative (-) to pin5 (positive is the top of jack).
But FIRST cut pin4 to separate bt card from mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did cut c102 (others have it as C32) Is that a problem? Because the lines of connections of pin 4 and 5 goes thorough it.
ReVolte11 said:
I did cut c102 (others have it as C32) Is that a problem? Because the lines of connections of pin 4 and 5 goes thorough it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only need to cut pin4 line. Post some screenshot and your device model.
Yousolder and mic is not working?
hadjistyllis said:
Only need to cut pin4 line. Post some screenshot and your device model.
Yousolder and mic is not working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am going to reserve some time for another fixing and then I will post my photos. And yes, when I use BT call I can hear crappy sound and some voice from FRONT mic. Now I am not sure if the external ever worked because I didn´t try from what mic I get sound. Do you know how exactly is working front mic and his affection of BT call?
Thank you!
ReVolte11 said:
I am going to reserve some time for another fixing and then I will post my photos. And yes, when I use BT call I can hear crappy sound and some voice from FRONT mic. Now I am not sure if the external ever worked because I didn´t try from what mic I get sound. Do you know how exactly is working front mic and his affection of BT call?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally cutting the pin disconnect entirely front mic from bt card (check if the pin you cut writes mic+ on bt card from front or back). Also try using other external mic and see if it works. Also check voltage between two pins and report.
Do you have kgl or kld or .......?
I have KYD version and its slightly different than yours. I will try to do some photos to get you now how it looks inside.
Hi,
so I made some pictures and improvements in my unit. I left my microphone connected in the same way I soldered it, but I shielded the jack wire for it whole length in radio. Now i have no static noises, but my microphone is still weak a I need to be loud to be heard. So I am going to buy another microphone with better gain.
http://postimg.org/image/qsxoivkqp/
http://postimg.org/image/jhisfwkl1/
http://postimg.org/image/5921hcwbh/
ReVolte11 said:
Hi,
so I made some pictures and improvements in my unit. I left my microphone connected in the same way I soldered it, but I shielded the jack wire for it whole length in radio. Now i have no static noises, but my microphone is still weak a I need to be loud to be heard. So I am going to buy another microphone with better gain.
http://postimg.org/image/qsxoivkqp/
http://postimg.org/image/jhisfwkl1/
http://postimg.org/image/5921hcwbh/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also check your cable resistance just to be sure is ok.
Also cable must be as far possible from board.
Are you using stereo or mono jack?
I did tested my microphone in PC a it was all the same.
I have the cable shielded so no interference is there and I still using original microphone output so its mono I think.
And front mic is now not capturing my voice in BT call.
Can you add an idiots guide how to exactly do that mod?
I really want to do it, but afraid to cause more damage, since I have no electrical skills.
Huge thanks!
amir77a said:
Can you add an idiots guide how to exactly do that mod?
I really want to do it, but afraid to cause more damage, since I have no electrical skills.
Huge thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you never use solder iron its better to give it to a proffessional to do this.
You first have to disassemble the upper part of radio and take off cd-rom. Then bt card is like pictures. You cut mic+ pin and solder you mic + on it.
If you give it to a pro and show him the pictures he can to it without any problem.
hadjistyllis said:
If you never use solder iron its better to give it to a proffessional to do this.
You first have to disassemble the upper part of radio and take off cd-rom. Then bt card is like pictures. You cut mic+ pin and solder you mic + on it.
If you give it to a pro and show him the pictures he can to it without any problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess I have to do that.
That is so annoying. The handsfree is currently almost unusable.
@hadjistyllis
Thank u a lot!
I have the Erisin 2402GE with KGL1 MCU for my Volkswagen Golf 5. I had the same problem with the silent mic for bluetooth calls.
So i tried your mod. I dared and sweated a lot, because everything is so small inside the logicboard. I wanted to go save and connected the mic-cable first, because my BT-Modul even looked different inside the PCB.
And for testing i heard the mic - Great!
So i dared and sweated again and cutted the pin4 with a scissor ... After putting everything inside again and testing, my mic works for BT-Calls. And now the quality of the mic is great and loud.
Thank you so much, after the powered usb-hub and the mic-mod now my erisin is great optimised for everything.
There is no way tu use the minijack connector that aready comes installed in the back of the radio?
I have a completely different unit but am about to cut pin 4. The one question I have is do you solder mic+ to pin 4 on Bluetooth module or main board as from your picture it looks like you have soldered to pin 4 on main board. Is this correct?
vomesk said:
There is no way tu use the minijack connector that aready comes installed in the back of the radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you really want to take off mainboard and disolder connection then do it. Its a little bit risky.
Goose247 said:
I have a completely different unit but am about to cut pin 4. The one question I have is do you solder mic+ to pin 4 on Bluetooth module or main board as from your picture it looks like you have soldered to pin 4 on main board. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On bluetooth card not mainboard
HI, i bay it this gadget http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Upgr...-Plug-For-IPhone-For-Samsung/32593266492.html
but doesn't not work in may phone Sony Xperia Z2 D6503, only flashes red color :/ someone had this been, can it work?
z2 doesn't have an IR, and i think that is your answer
ssjmilos said:
z2 doesn't have an IR, and i think that is your answer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what the plug is for. To give devices IR-capabilities
But those plugs only works with apps that supports them. Which isn't many.
i install this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tiqiaa.remote
I understand, I need drivers ... the kernel does not have the drivers for this ...
otherwise work with some models Samsung, hts, LG, Lenovo ... but not sony ;(
maybe I need someone customize kernel ?
sorry for my "perfect" english
4728 said:
i install this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tiqiaa.remote
I understand, I need drivers ... the kernel does not have the drivers for this ...
otherwise work with some models Samsung, hts, LG, Lenovo ... but not sony ;(
maybe I need someone customize kernel ?
sorry for my "perfect" english
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These don't work very well in a lot of devices, I have built several myself to control a camera using the instructions here: http://www.wegroo.com/photoirmote/diyirmitter/compact-irmitter/
The problem is the headphone jack doesn't put out enough voltage to run the IR LEDs properly. If it works at all the range may only be 30cm or so and the volume on the phone will have to be at max.
Try turning the volume all the way up and testing at close range, it should work but is pretty much useless.
You can also try plugging in a headphone amp (something like: http://www.headphone.com/collections/vendors?q=fiio). This should give decent range but is really inconvenient.
If you don't want to have an amp hanging off the phone and you need longer than a meter range then you are probably going to have to find a phone with a built in IR transmitter.
Hope that helps.
Edit: also, as someone above pointed out, the software you are using might not support using the headphone jack for the remote. Try photoIRmote because that does work, you can point another smartphone camera at the transmitter and you should be able to see it light up through the camera if it is working, at least then you know if the transmitter is even going and might be able to find some other software that does work.
Aborto said:
These don't work very well in a lot of devices, I have built several myself to control a camera using the instructions here: http://www.wegroo.com/photoirmote/diyirmitter/compact-irmitter/
The problem is the headphone jack doesn't put out enough voltage to run the IR LEDs properly. If it works at all the range may only be 30cm or so and the volume on the phone will have to be at max.
Try turning the volume all the way up and testing at close range, it should work but is pretty much useless.
You can also try plugging in a headphone amp (something like: http://www.headphone.com/collections/vendors?q=fiio). This should give decent range but is really inconvenient.
If you don't want to have an amp hanging off the phone and you need longer than a meter range then you are probably going to have to find a phone with a built in IR transmitter.
Hope that helps.
Edit: also, as someone above pointed out, the software you are using might not support using the headphone jack for the remote. Try photoIRmote because that does work, you can point another smartphone camera at the transmitter and you should be able to see it light up through the camera if it is working, at least then you know if the transmitter is even going and might be able to find some other software that does work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The software works(a lot better than anything else). The problem is that Sony uses some stupid way of detecting headphones on the whole Z line. If you just plug in a 3.5mm jack without any connections, it will not switch to headphones mode. Other phones (like my previous phone Xperia SP) deal with that just fine. It should work with an amp(it should put the necessary load on the phone). The solution is a small otg smd amp without BTL(so it doesn't shift phases). It will take some time but it should work. I may do it in the future if I need it for something.
Hi there,
I know there is already some posts relating issues like that, but most of them are dead and without a clear answer.
I actually have a Joying JY-UQ130 (RK3188 headunit) with probably a NXP6624 radio tuner chipset. This HU is installed on a Honda Civic 9G (European model). This car have an amplified antenna which worked very well with OEM radio.
Since I installed my HU, radio signal / reception is not really good. Everything is correctly plugged : blue wire is connected with ANT-CONT (12V) and radio connector is on HU.
Without connecting blue wire, radio signal / reception is clearly worst, so I think everything is OK !
So, I tried like my others to add this ANT-208 amplifier :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/ANT-208-Car-Inline-Antenna-Aerial-Radio-FM-Signal-Booster-Amplifier-Amp-UK-/111840168048?
Now, ANT-208 and default antenna car's together make radio signal / reception worst than without ANT-208.
Is this box just **** or maybe broken ? I have not red led to control if power is OK. I just plugged red wire on AMP-CONT, which is a 12V wire normally for audio amplifier (but I don't have it). I don't know where to get 12V if I don't use this wire.
Is there any other solution to increase radio signal / reception ? Maybe I can connect another comptable chipset tuner, which is better ? If yes, which compatible chipset would you recommand me ?
Hope this topic can help community to fix this recurrent radio problem !!
Thanks !
Lwysiwyg said:
Hi there,
I know there is already some posts relating issues like that, but most of them are dead and without a clear answer.
I actually have a Joying JY-UQ130 (RK3188 headunit) with probably a NXP6624 radio tuner chipset. This HU is installed on a Honda Civic 9G (European model). This car have an amplified antenna which worked very well with OEM radio.
Since I installed my HU, radio signal / reception is not really good. Everything is correctly plugged : blue wire is connected with ANT-CONT (12V) and radio connector is on HU.
Without connecting blue wire, radio signal / reception is clearly worst, so I think everything is OK !
So, I tried like my others to add this ANT-208 amplifier :
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/ANT-208-Car-Inline-Antenna-Aerial-Radio-FM-Signal-Booster-Amplifier-Amp-UK-/111840168048?
Now, ANT-208 and default antenna car's together make radio signal / reception worst than without ANT-208.
Is this box just **** or maybe broken ? I have not red led to control if power is OK. I just plugged red wire on AMP-CONT, which is a 12V wire normally for audio amplifier (but I don't have it). I don't know where to get 12V if I don't use this wire.
Is there any other solution to increase radio signal / reception ? Maybe I can connect another comptable chipset tuner, which is better ? If yes, which compatible chipset would you recommand me ?
Hope this topic can help community to fix this recurrent radio problem !!
Thanks !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search other threads in general section and elsewhere. There are several discussions on this topic. No single solution as caused may be related to.particular unit or car situation.
I solved issue by putting additional antenna and joing with existing in car by using Y adapter. That way I got more signal to noise ratio. Just adding amplifiers is not changing SNR.
Sorry for the long time before answering ! Thanks for your answer !
I tried connecting GND of my wires to the car ground, but no improvement.
I tried famous ANT-208, but signal is now worst. I have removed it today, and will see if something is wrong in the ANT-208's box.
Adding another antenna ? Why not Do you know an internal antenna model that works great ? I don't want to have wires and antenna on board, so if I can hide this it would be great.
Lwysiwyg said:
Sorry for the long time before answering ! Thanks for your answer !
I tried connecting GND of my wires to the car ground, but no improvement.
I tried famous ANT-208, but signal is now worst. I have removed it today, and will see if something is wrong in the ANT-208's box.
Adding another antenna ? Why not Do you know an internal antenna model that works great ? I don't want to have wires and antenna on board, so if I can hide this it would be great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has your car got an OEM antenna booster ? If so you probably just need a power injector.
Guys, I have a px3 with rom malaysk 7.1, eonon ga8261, mcu www, that is kld (klyde). I do not have the front camera parking function even if I have the application, connecting the camera to the AV in socket does not work, and does not say that the unit is not set up ... So I purchased a module on aliexpress that goes to manage two cameras , rear and front, in a few words steals the reverse signal and when the reverse gear is removed it continues to send the reverse signal to the radio (but showing the front camera) it works, it costs little .. I have already installed but I have a problem, c 'it is a rustling in the speakers that depends on the signal wire coming out of the module and simulates the reverse signal .. I originally have the canbus and I cut the wire that goes from the canbus box to the radio, thus having the original reverse signal coming out from the canbus module and arrives at the camera module, then the thread of the trigger reverse signal that comes out of the module I connected it to the rest of the wire (reverse in) which goes to the radio .. In short I intercepted the reverse can signal bus and I deceived him through the module .. The problem is that so I have a noise disturbance in the speakers .. If I disconnect the reverse signal from the camera module that goes to the radio the noise stops .. Obviously reconnecting the reverse wire directly from the canbus module to the unit there is no disturbance .. It is possible that a signal arrives from the camera module that disturbs the unit .. I checked all the wiring and it is perfect .. The ground is all connected, I believe that from the canbus box the signal reverse is not +12 but maybe less .. Do you think this is the cause ?? I can put some resistance or capacitor according to you to solve .. The seller seems absent .. And it is a shame to lose this beautiful function .. Also because the alternative is to connect to the AV signal but the music does not play and every time you have to select in manual the application .. Thanks guys
Link of module camera
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/zxS0y7W