Hi all,
Long story short, I went on a brief (1 week long) trip and just went back, and during the trip I had my HDX7 stored in a locker in powered off state. The weather during the week was rainy, but the storage locker was quite deep inside the room.
Before I go on the trip it works alright; however, when I'm back, I surprisingly found that it no longer connects to the PC, i.e. no USB debugging or MTP notification at all when I plug the tablet in.
Here's where I'm at:
No ADB and MTP recognition, either in OS or in TWRP recovery
Tablet charges normally at full speed
Different cables on hand doesn't help
Different ports on the PC, even a different PC, doesn't help
At this point I'm ready to accept that some sort of hardware damage has occurred, however, I'm still willing to know...
Is this really hardware damage, or have I missed something?
If yes, how come?
Possibility of repairing?
Thanks for your insights.
AndyYan said:
Hi all,
Long story short, I went on a brief (1 week long) trip and just went back, and during the trip I had my HDX7 stored in a locker in powered off state. The weather during the week was rainy, but the storage locker was quite deep inside the room.
Before I go on the trip it works alright; however, when I'm back, I surprisingly found that it no longer connects to the PC, i.e. no USB debugging or MTP notification at all when I plug the tablet in.
Here's where I'm at:
No ADB and MTP recognition, either in OS or in TWRP recovery
Tablet charges normally at full speed
Different cables on hand doesn't help
Different ports on the PC, even a different PC, doesn't help
At this point I'm ready to accept that some sort of hardware damage has occurred, however, I'm still willing to know...
Is this really hardware damage, or have I missed something?
If yes, how come?
Possibility of repairing?
Thanks for your insights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging takes place on the two outer pins; data communication on the two inner pins. Look for a bent/missing inner pin. More likely one or more solder connections have broken where the USB recepticle attaches to the main board. Not a fun fix; just say 'no' if inexperienced with such mods.
Davey126 said:
Charging takes place on the two outer pins; data communication on the two inner pins. Look for a bent/missing inner pin. More likely one or more solder connections have broken where the USB recepticle attaches to the main board. Not a fun fix; just say 'no' if inexperienced with such mods.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I have tools for disassembly and some experience, HDX7 is definitely beyond my ability to dismantle just to check what's wrong, let alone repairing it on my own.
Guess I'll just sell this thing cheaply to someone who can bear with transferring files wirelessly...
Related
Is there any way to manage the USB connection when the phone is *not* plugged in? I want to be able to set whether the connection will share the int/ext SD card or be in charge only mode.
For what it's worth, I'm running CM7 Weekly 4, and LauncherPro (which I can set an icon for many system activities, but have no idea which would be the correct one).
Does anyone know how this can be done?
When you plug into an AC outlet it automatically goes to charge only, when you plug into USB it prompts by default Portal/tools..Mass storage..Charge only, you can set there.
Edit: Swyponese
Dee Ex Two - See Em Seven
Pixelation said:
When you plug into an AC outlet it automatically goes to charge only, when you plug into USB it prompts by default Portal/tools..Mass storage..Charge only, you can set there.
Edit: Swyponese
Dee Ex Two - See Em Seven
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The question is, how can I set the mode when the phone isn't plugged into anything?
Haphim said:
The question is, how can I set the mode when the phone isn't plugged into anything?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since it's not plugged into anything, there's no connection to manage. Just set the type of usb connection you want before unplugging it, then it should stay that way.
dratsablive said:
Since it's not plugged into anything, there's no connection to manage. Just set the type of usb connection you want before unplugging it, then it should stay that way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not the point. Okay, let me explain. When I use the phone at home, I always let it share the drives. But if I'm out and need to charge the phone, but I don't trust the machine - then I don't want the drives shared, even for a moment.
However, unless I can change this without making the connection first, then either I can't charge my phone this way, or I'm risking malware getting a hold.
Since the phone remembers the last setting, it must be stored somewhere. The question is how can this stored setting be changed to prevent an issue like this from occurring.
Software = unknown, hardware = easy
If you don't mind carrying a "charge only" cable with you then you can avoid the whole issue of Malware, data dumps, etc. from a unknown PC that you just want to pull some juice from. I'm not sure if these cables are sold anywhere, but mod'ing a normal USB to micro-USB cable to make it data free is pretty simple.
On a USB connection your power (+5VDC and GND) is carried by the two outer most pins on the connector while the two inner pins carry the signal (. The I would mod the USB connector as it's bigger and much easier to work with.
Using a Dremel tool grind down the two middle connectors on the end that plugs into the PC. Make sure to remove all the copper for these two connectors, but do not hit the other two or you may damage the circuit path. Even though you are dealing with low voltage and small current levels, damage to the power connectors could cause issues.
Here is one issue though that is not limited to just this method, but to any time you charge from a PC: Per the USB 2.0 standard a PC must be able to provide a total of 500mA total for all USB connections. The USB charging standard for phones says at least 500mA. In other words, if there is anything else connected via USB or the PC manufacturer fudged the spec than the phone will see it as in invalid charging device and charge really slowly.
If you decide to try this, let me know how it turns out. I have only run this in a lab setting and have no real world data on how it holds up. Good luck.
Haphim said:
That's not the point. Okay, let me explain. When I use the phone at home, I always let it share the drives. But if I'm out and need to charge the phone, but I don't trust the machine - then I don't want the drives shared, even for a moment.
However, unless I can change this without making the connection first, then either I can't charge my phone this way, or I'm risking malware getting a hold.
Since the phone remembers the last setting, it must be stored somewhere. The question is how can this stored setting be changed to prevent an issue like this from occurring.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just drag down the status bar and choose the USB Connection option to manage it and select "None." Dratsablive was right - put it in "None" mode when you disconnect at home and it will default to that when you connect again.
Nothing is going to jump onto your phone in the couple of seconds it takes to do this. Also, any windows malware on the PC will really NOT bother an Android phone.
Guys, I'm convinced the usb connector on my 9 month old TP is defective and gets worse each time I use it. I had bought a touchstone charger to ease the connector wear but still, I was eventually having problems with USB data connectivity using store bought cables. I even sent my TP in to fix the connector and when I got it back, still no USB connectivity. Just a completely wiped TP. So HP sent me one of their "genuine" silver dot cables and low and behold it worked fine. (My original cable was lost)
Now, months later, I'm having problems with the USB data connection again. I either get the "Not enough current message" in WebOS or no MTP USB symbol in CM9. Sometimes the PC will chime positively but with an error message (can't detect device). I received another genuine HP cable and it behaves the same as the other one. Inserting them normally, they appear to be in tight, the PC will chime but Windows will say that there's a problem, can't detect device. The only way to get it to work is to insert the microusb side at a 45 degree angle tilted downward and hold it in for 5 seconds, then (ever so slowly) release the pressure to the connector. 50% of the time I'll get a Windows message that says the USB is degraded and run slower than normal (which I think means it thinks its in USB1.1 slow xfer mode) and 50% it works fine at USB 2.0 (until I pull the cable out of the connector). I also have 2 store bought cables that won't ever successfully connect to USB with the TP but work fine with my Samsung cell in both charging and xferring music over to the phone.
So what I'm getting at here is that no standard microusb cable is the same and that there must be something special about the HP genuine one. Do these cables have a resistor on pin 4 ID tied to GND pin 5? Even so, I think what is wearing the most is pins 1 & 2 and maybe 3 (VCC and the data pins) which is why it may only work by concentrating on seating those pins first. Does it make sense that the 'can't detect device' message comes up with just the data lines and ground connected but no VCC? For that matter, why would the battery symbol in CM9 always show the lightning bolt assuming pin 1 VCC is not connected?
I'd appreciate any responses from other members here since I believe without USB the TP could be bricked in case some boot code gets corrupt and you are forced into WebOS recovery mode. This has never happened to me yet and I've installed a lot of nightlies but it COULD happen, no guarantees. What is inevitable is my connector will eventually wear out and my TP will only live until the bootloader DOES get corrupt, hopefully later than sooner. This could be the case with all TP's. Just imagine if in a couple of years everyone's TP's USB port goes bad. Sounds like the devs should figure out a way to fix a bricked TP wirelessly, if that's at all possible.
Thanks,
synchron
One of my Touchpad's had the same problem in Webos it said using wrong charger may not charge or something similar and with Android ie nightly the charging signal came up but it did not charge.
I spoke to HP and pointed out that I have 2 Tablets and that swapping leads or chargers made no difference all combinations worked on one but not the other.
They agreed to fix it and replaced the part. It is now working fine. And as with yours my computer failed to recognize the tablet properly.19 times out of 20 on the one time it did I was able to back up and remove Android before HP picked it up.
I would send it back under warranty or if that has expired state that it was preexisting. Otherwise as you said it is going to become pretty much unusable.
Don't let them fob you off.
Good luck
spaceosc said:
if u bought it during the fire sale u have about a week till (8/20) the one year warranty expires.
http://kb.hpwebos.com/wps/portal/kb/na/touchpad/touchpad/wifi/supportservices/page_en.html
go to palm support and CHAT with them. do not call cuz that cost money.
once u get an RMA they will send a box and take care of Shipping.
then go here to wipe and remove android
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1426244
once wiped send it in and your speaker will be fixed, it will take about a week.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
from another thread
sstar said:
One of my Touchpad's had the same problem in Webos it said using wrong charger may not charge or something similar and with Android ie nightly the charging signal came up but it did not charge.
I spoke to HP and pointed out that I have 2 Tablets and that swapping leads or chargers made no difference all combinations worked on one but not the other.
They agreed to fix it and replaced the part. It is now working fine. And as with yours my computer failed to recognize the tablet properly.19 times out of 20 on the one time it did I was able to back up and remove Android before HP picked it up.
I would send it back under warranty or if that has expired state that it was preexisting. Otherwise as you said it is going to become pretty much unusable.
Don't let them fob you off.
Good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
spaceosc said:
from another thread
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanx for your prompt responses. I bought my TP at the 2nd fire sale through BB in early Nov so I still got a few more months but I would rather wait a bit more since they did nothing the 1st time around. I think the connector is on some daughter board along with the vibrate device which is soldered to the main board. Doesn't sound like a big deal to repair it. Still, what makes the HP cable different then the others? Are there known cables I can get online that might be made better to always work and make better contact than the HP ones?
Synchron
synchron50 said:
Thanx for your prompt responses. I bought my TP at the 2nd fire sale through BB in early Nov so I still got a few more months but I would rather wait a bit more since they did nothing the 1st time around. I think the connector is on some daughter board along with the vibrate device which is soldered to the main board. Doesn't sound like a big deal to repair it. Still, what makes the HP cable different then the others? Are there known cables I can get online that might be made better to always work and make better contact than the HP ones?
Synchron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont wait, ive sent my TP in 3 times, 1st time for charging port, 2nd for a crack around the speaker, 3rd for a busted speaker.
spaceosc said:
dont wait, ive sent my TP in 3 times, 1st time for charging port, 2nd for a crack around the speaker, 3rd for a busted speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your advice. Did they fix everything that was intended? Was turn around time no longer than 2 weeks for each repair? When was your last repair (busted speaker) done? Is your serial number the same or did you ever get a replacement (meaning a refurbished one) back?
Thanks
synchron50 said:
Thanks for your advice. Did they fix everything that was intended? Was turn around time no longer than 2 weeks for each repair? When was your last repair (busted speaker) done? Is your serial number the same or did you ever get a replacement (meaning a refurbished one) back?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i keep track of the serials and they always came back the same. i have more than one pad and i asked for one to be replaced completely. we will see if that happens. but they fix only what u ask for and nothing else.
it can take longer depending on Weekends. takes 2 days to get your box, then 2 days to get it to HP, then 3- 4 days to get your fixed unit. its all done thru UPS, cant send it out on the weekends or receive it
spaceosc said:
i keep track of the serials and they always came back the same. i have more than one pad and i asked for one to be replaced completely. we will see if that happens. but they fix only what u ask for and nothing else.
it can take longer depending on Weekends. takes 2 days to get your box, then 2 days to get it to HP, then 3- 4 days to get your fixed unit. its all done thru UPS, cant send it out on the weekends or receive it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, you are giving me hope to try again while my warranty is still good. Maybe I'll put a big note on the screen PLEASE REPLACE USB CONNECTOR - wouldn't hurt.
Synchron50
I know this is really old, but im finding my self with similar issues and no warrenty
synchron50 said:
Guys, I'm convinced the usb connector on my 9 month old TP is defective and gets worse each time I use it. I had bought a touchstone charger to ease the connector wear but still, I was eventually having problems with USB data connectivity using store bought cables. I even sent my TP in to fix the connector and when I got it back, still no USB connectivity. Just a completely wiped TP. So HP sent me one of their "genuine" silver dot cables and low and behold it worked fine. (My original cable was lost)
Now, months later, I'm having problems with the USB data connection again. I either get the "Not enough current message" in WebOS or no MTP USB symbol in CM9. Sometimes the PC will chime positively but with an error message (can't detect device). I received another genuine HP cable and it behaves the same as the other one. Inserting them normally, they appear to be in tight, the PC will chime but Windows will say that there's a problem, can't detect device. The only way to get it to work is to insert the microusb side at a 45 degree angle tilted downward and hold it in for 5 seconds, then (ever so slowly) release the pressure to the connector. 50% of the time I'll get a Windows message that says the USB is degraded and run slower than normal (which I think means it thinks its in USB1.1 slow xfer mode) and 50% it works fine at USB 2.0 (until I pull the cable out of the connector). I also have 2 store bought cables that won't ever successfully connect to USB with the TP but work fine with my Samsung cell in both charging and xferring music over to the phone.
So what I'm getting at here is that no standard microusb cable is the same and that there must be something special about the HP genuine one. Do these cables have a resistor on pin 4 ID tied to GND pin 5? Even so, I think what is wearing the most is pins 1 & 2 and maybe 3 (VCC and the data pins) which is why it may only work by concentrating on seating those pins first. Does it make sense that the 'can't detect device' message comes up with just the data lines and ground connected but no VCC? For that matter, why would the battery symbol in CM9 always show the lightning bolt assuming pin 1 VCC is not connected?
I'd appreciate any responses from other members here since I believe without USB the TP could be bricked in case some boot code gets corrupt and you are forced into WebOS recovery mode. This has never happened to me yet and I've installed a lot of nightlies but it COULD happen, no guarantees. What is inevitable is my connector will eventually wear out and my TP will only live until the bootloader DOES get corrupt, hopefully later than sooner. This could be the case with all TP's. Just imagine if in a couple of years everyone's TP's USB port goes bad. Sounds like the devs should figure out a way to fix a bricked TP wirelessly, if that's at all possible.
Thanks,
synchron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi all. I know this thread is really old, but I'm finding myself dealing with similar issues. And I'm obviously out of warranty. I can't get windows, linux, or Toolbox to pick up the USB. I'm actually in a worse case scenario mention here and am stuck in meboot, TWRP, and WebOS recovery, because I had wiped the rom. It must be an issue with the USB port, I've lost track of my original Hp touchpad OEM cable, and have tried every USB cable I can find. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi guys,
The archos addon 3g usb stick doesnt activate when switched on through the control panel? It will only activate if I reboot the tablet but nothing happens when using the quick access settings (control) panel or the regular settings panel. Major drag!
Is it a bug or is there anything I can do about it?
Cheers,
Rick
I'm having the same issue sometimes, sometimes it works.
What might be happening is port itself going bad as Archos seems to have used a flimsy ribbon cable on the 3G port. Since the port can actually move in and out it stresses the ribbon cable and breaks the data traces in it.
See this post over on the Archos Fans website. It has pictures in it showing the ribbon cable in question. It seems the power traces can still deliver power but the data traces are smaller and pretty much get destroyed.
So the port will get power, but not able to send data essentially.
Djirin said:
What might be happening is port itself going bad as Archos seems to have used a flimsy ribbon cable on the 3G port. Since the port can actually move in and out it stresses the ribbon cable and breaks the data traces in it.
See this post over on the Archos Fans website. It has pictures in it showing the ribbon cable in question. It seems the power traces can still deliver power but the data traces are smaller and pretty much get destroyed.
So the port will get power, but not able to send data essentially.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this once and sent my 80G9 to Archos to get it repaired. A solution is not to slide the stick out, so the cable is not stressed to much. On the new one I sometimes have the problem that it takes a while to connect to the 3G stick or I need to reboot. But it depends on the firmware aswell.
rulerofkaos said:
I had this once and sent my 80G9 to Archos to get it repaired. A solution is not to slide the stick out, so the cable is not stressed to much. On the new one I sometimes have the problem that it takes a while to connect to the 3G stick or I need to reboot. But it depends on the firmware aswell.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The internal cable connection is one issue... the hardware design itself and the driver/software is another.
Please have a look at dmesg output if the 3G stick refuses to connect.
There seems to be some trouble to detect devices on the host port in general after a while. A reboot generally fixes these issues.
Might be something with the USB PHY not getting resetted properly or other things after sending the device to sleep...
Anyway as long as the stick works after reboot it's more or less acceptable for me.
Have fun!
scholbert
I checked the dmsg log after connecting and switching the port on & off. This produces various errors such as 'cannot enumerate device' and 'write error on temp directory' and bunch of other problems which might or might not have anything to do with the issue concerning the secondary cpu boot. It seems the driver had been implemented poorly. The only thing that works consistently is rebooting the device but as soon as it's gone to sleep for a short period, it cannot activate the 3gstick anymore. Please note this is the original Archos 3G stick which cost me an extra 65euro's on top of the 300euro's I spent on the G9....
Hello, dunno if this is possible/normal but my SII got issue connecting to computer with usb. If i move it slightly, it'll disconnect/reconnect. Sometimes i have to handle the phone is some weird position or it won't connect at all. However for charging, it never has issues. How can i fix this?
There is problem with your USB cable. If you have problems while charging also, then it will be an issue of USB port of your phone.
But i tested with all cable i have, about 4..! The computer detect it but it will disconnect/reconnect as said, often.
And for ADB app such as APK Installer, it won't detect it even if comp did. This is strange, but that's how it is..!
goja said:
Hello, dunno if this is possible/normal but my SII got issue connecting to computer with usb. If i move it slightly, it'll disconnect/reconnect. Sometimes i have to handle the phone is some weird position or it won't connect at all. However for charging, it never has issues. How can i fix this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the cables are not the culprit, it is either the USB port on the phone or the phone itself. You may try cleaning the port, or it needs replacing. I experienced somewhat similar, what I did was do a data wipe and cache wipe on recovery, and that seems to fix the connecting/disconnecting problem.
No it's not software, i have recently reinstalled everything.. I looked at the internal usb port with a little flashlight and it looks fine, i don't get it.. I'm gentle with my devices!
Gs2 is prone to get its USB port faulty, doesn't matter how gentle you are. It can be replaced cheaply though by most of the mobile repair shops. If you want to do it yourself then check out Keith Ross' guide for USB board replacement.
May i ask.. GS2 and GS4 too..?
S2, S3 and S4 all use the same type of connector.......
The issue probably isn't as common on the S3 and S4 simply because those devices are newer and have had less chance for the port to wear out......
The connector (in my opinion) is pathetically fragile and totally unsuitable for repeated connection/disconnection...I think it's called manufacturer induced inbuilt obsolescence lol....
I have personally replaced the ports on two S2s and am having to consider the possibility of replacing the port on mine in the very near future.
Partial failure of the port is a lot more common than is realised......
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
It's the micro USB phone connector. It's a design fault, we can thank Samsung for that. the DATA pins have "broken" from the mainboard and you have to resolder them, I did the same thing to make the data work.
Very tiny soldering.. Not everyone can do that, eh?
^this is true.......
Best to replace the entire board.....
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2335961
My wife says I'm a phone geek....She's probably right
Hi All,
I'm trying to resolve an issue with a Mate 20 pro which I hope doesn't end up hardware related on the main pcb.
The phone will no longer charge or communicate via the USB port. Luckily it will still charge using the wireless pad.
Ill start by listing the things I have tried to resolve the issue and then ask if anyone has any other suggestions -
Performed full factory reset/cache data clear
Checked and cleaned charging port
Tried other genuine cables, chargers and PC's
operated in safe mode
tried different usb settings in developer mode and project mode (*#2846579#*#*)
Ran the diagnostics in the Hcare app - which just tells me to contact for service and repair on the charging/usb test
replaced the USB-C ribbon assembly with a genuine replacement
Measured 5v via test points on the main PCB when the cable is connected
Soft boot mode connects to the PC and opens up hsuite, but shows as not connected
Soft boot mode will also show a device id in the Huawei service/download tool
Checked for any obvious damage to internal components
The phone warranty sadly ran out on Sunday.
I did contact Huawei last week, but without an original proof of purchase, they would not repair the phone foc.
This is why I made the decision to remove the back.
I have spent a long time looking for answers on this site and various repair methods on the internet, but nothing has come up.
My remaining thoughts were to consider downgrading the firmware from 10.1 to either 9 or 10 using either the SD card or purchase a USB otg to try?
I may try to check the continuity on the ribbon cable I removed just to double check I haven't ended up with two dodgy USB-C ribbons.
Can anyone tell me why the phone will still connect in soft boot mode, but not when booted up normal?
Current firmware is 10.1.0.328(C432E8R1P5)
A few final things to mention as its my first post -
I did purchase the phone with this fault and don't know the full history of the phone, which is why I wondered if the fault occurred following an OTA update.
If I cant get the port to work, Im happy to continue using it in its current state till I get bored and buy another phone with slight imperfections.
I am an electrical engineer (Drive technology) with previous experience of basic repair techniques on mobile phones and precision repair of other electronics, but I don't claim to have any in depth knowledge in repairing mobile phones, just a general hobby interest.
I just didn't want to portray an image of someone blinding jamming tools into a piece of electronics.
I'm happy to take any positive criticism, if it helps to resolve my query.
Thanks,
Phil