Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
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Lets use a MacBook Pro early 2008 for our little Samsung DeX laptop project.
Looks roomy inside. Lets make more!
Lots of space to play around with.
Now for the waiting period of this project. We need to find an LCD controller board for this particular monitor. ebay to the rescue!
LCD controller board and backlight inverter arrived. DHL Express used a private jet I think.
Now for the fun part, we need to make this keyboard and trackpad work via USB. Lets bring out our soldering iron.
The 4 wire USB cable will need to connect, Ground, 5V0, R2 and DP. Success, we now have a working keyboard with a USB connector.
Next up. Fitting some batteries. These batteries is of type lithium polymer and was from an old laptop. However they where already showing signs of decay. Better now use them in a closed enclosure...
So I purchased two Power banks of the same type, and crossed my fingers the production date of the batteries matched. And lo and behold, they did! Slap those bad boys in parallel. 20000mAh, and 74Wh, plenty for around 4-5 hours of screen time.
Time for the lcd controller board, screen buttons and inverter to be fitted. Looks OK, but final reversion is better.
Maybe they will fit this way. Nope lets try again. The black box is the C-FORCE CF003 by the way.
Now we are getting somewhere, this looks OK. Note that I had to desolder the DVI, VGA, DC power, Audio in and Audio out plug from the lcd controller board for the height to fit.
2x XL6009 Step-up Power Module DC-DC Converter fitted, one for 12v and the other for 5v for fans and charging the phone while plugged in. Also added the 1A 5V Micro USB TP4056 Lithium Battery Power Charger Board Module TE420 for charging the batteries. And what will become the external USB plug. The 12v DC-DC gets hot as f***, so we need to find a way to cool it. I am happy I used very thick wire, as the inverter needs 4amp.
To my luck the original MacBook fan fits perfectly to cool down the DC-DC converter. Its the gray one in the bottom right.
Lets put it all together and see if it fits. I reused the original power plug for turning on and off the screen from the power button on the MacBook keyboard.
Isn't it lovely? I also found a magnetic micro usb charger cable for the charge wire. Can hardly tell it apart from a real MacBook Pro.
Next project. I need to see if I can fit this USB to Ethernet from StarTech. Should be possible.
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
If anyone knows how to get the trackpad working in Android without root, let me know.
Apparently Apple doesn't follow proper HID standards. I'm hoping it will work in Android O
To say I'm jealous is an understatement, great work! I'm all out of thanks for the day but it would be great to see someone produce and sell these!
Skidoo03 said:
To say I'm jealous is an understatement, great work! I'm all out of thanks for the day but it would be great to see someone produce and sell these!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.
There is the following already (Don't know if readily available):
Mirabook, https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-mirabook-turn-your-smartphone-into-a-laptop-mobile-android
Superbook, https://www.kickstarter.com/project...our-smartphone-into-a-laptop-f?ref=nav_search
But probably doesn't work with DeX.
kreal said:
Thanks.
There is the following already (Don't know if readily available):
Mirabook, https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-mirabook-turn-your-smartphone-into-a-laptop-mobile-android
Superbook, https://www.kickstarter.com/project...our-smartphone-into-a-laptop-f?ref=nav_search
But probably doesn't work with DeX.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What resolution is your screen?
very nice, working on something simular. mind telling me what charge controller you're using?
It is the best personal project I've seen here in this forum.
I am inspired by this work of awesomeness amazing job man! This is the cool DIY stuff I love seeing and the best part to me is it's a MacBook pro shell HAHAHA!! Classy!
kelvingamer said:
What resolution is your screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the specs it says, 1440 by 900 native resolution. But can easily run 1920x1080 with the new LCD driver board. No ill effects at all.
Armin1997 said:
very nice, working on something simular. mind telling me what charge controller you're using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121521256825
However I de-soldered the DVI and VGA port and a few other things to make it fit.
Nice work!
You could probably shave off some more by using a smaller adapter, say, the 30$ MELOPOW M002 - which is considerably smaller than the C-Force one you're using.
I'm also planning something similar, but I'd use a dedicated QC2.0 compatible charging controller that supports pass-through charging (which I haven't been able to find so far), Type-C and is relatively cheap (say, a not too branded chinese power bank from AliExpress).
Awesome!
Hey man,
If you switched to an eDP board and screen, you'd get over 30 hours of battery life, no joke. That video board you have is from 2005, which is why it's so power hungry. I have the same board and an eDP board in mine. I have a 56Whr battery in mine and eDP and it lasts so long that I've never drained it, I always tend to plug it in before it's even at 25% life.
kreal said:
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
Lets use a MacBook Pro early 2008 for our little Samsung DeX laptop project.
Looks roomy inside. Lets make more!
Lots of to play around with.
Now for the waiting period of this project. We need to find an LCD controller board for this particular monitor. ebay to the rescue!
LCD controller board and backlight inverter arrived. DHL Express used a private jet I think.
Now for the fun part, we need to make this and trackpad work via USB. Lets bring out our soldering iron.
The 4 wire USB cable will need to connect, Ground, 5V0, R2 and DP. Success, we now have a working with a USB connector.
Next up. Fitting some batteries. These batteries is of type lithium polymer and was from an old laptop. However they where already showing signs of decay. Better now use them in a closed enclosure...
So I purchased two Power banks of the same type, and crossed my fingers the production date of the batteries matched. And lo and behold, they did! Slap those bad boys in parallel. 20000mAh, and 74Wh, plenty for around 4-5 hours of screen time.
Time for the lcd controller board, screen buttons and inverter to be fitted. Looks OK, but final reversion is better.
Maybe they will fit this way. Nope lets try again. The black box is the C- CF003 by the way.
Now we are getting somewhere, this looks OK. Note that I had to desolder the DVI, VGA, DC power, Audio in and Audio out plug from the lcd controller board for the height to fit.
2x XL6009 Step-up Power Module DC-DC Converter fitted, one for 12v and the other for 5v for fans and charging the phone while plugged in. Also added the 1A 5V Micro USB TP4056 Lithium Battery Power Charger Board Module TE420 for charging the batteries. And what will become the external USB plug. The 12v DC-DC gets hot as f***, so we need to find a way to cool it. I am happy I used very thick wire, as the inverter needs 4amp.
To my luck the original MacBook fan fits perfectly to cool down the DC-DC converter. Its the gray one in the bottom right.
Lets put it all together and see if it fits. I reused the original power plug for turning on and off the screen from the power button on the MacBook .
Isn't it lovely? I also found a magnetic micro usb charger cable for the charge wire. Can hardly tell it apart from a real MacBook Pro.
Next project. I need to see if I can fit this USB to Ethernet from StarTech. Should be possible.
Album
http://imgur.com/gallery/NIeGc
See it in action!
https://youtu.be/HTemLWr4lqI
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried something similar (OTG peripherals/WiFi display) a year or so ago, mixed up my power supplies for the display inverter and fried it. After burning a nice spot in my table I decided it wasn't really worth pursuing.
Great work though, very cool.
Where did you got that flat hdmi cable?
You can buy it on Amazon.
andjohn said:
Hey man,
If you switched to an eDP board and screen, you'd get over 30 hours of battery life, no joke. That video board you have is from 2005, which is why it's so power hungry. I have the same board and an eDP board in mine. I have a 56Whr battery in mine and eDP and it lasts so long that I've never drained it, I always tend to plug it in before it's even at 25% life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool!
Care to name some parts, maybe even show off your build?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh8m01oANfg
That's my prototype when I was making it a business.
Hi, that's an epic projet, when I saw the news of this project I was thinking "shoot, someone overshooted me" because I had the idea to do the same but for the Nintendo switch a month or so ago but didn't quite got the money to do that, and then I saw your amazing project and now I need your help (if you want to) to make the laptop keyboard a USB keyboard (I'm using an old Compaq 610 laptop) :fingers-crossed:
Silails said:
Hi, that's an epic projet, when I saw the news of this project I was thinking "shoot, someone overshooted me" because I had the idea to do the same but for the Nintendo switch a month or so ago but didn't quite got the money to do that, and then I saw your amazing project and now I need your help (if you want to) to make the laptop keyboard a USB keyboard (I'm using an old Compaq 610 laptop) :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most older laptops use onboard controllers for the touchpad and the keyboard (but at least for the keyboard). This is a problem especially if you want to convert it into a USB keyboard, because without the controller, the keyboard itself is nothing more but a 8x18 diode matrix with a 25-pin connector. And since most manufacturers wire their keyboards differently, if it isn't a well researched model, especially if it's a model where the controller is ON the motherboard and not separate, you'll be out of luck (unless you know how to write your own firmware for the USB HID device for a compatible microcontroller like a Teensy).
However there are tons of very small keyboards that more or less fit a generic laptop keyboard's size on AliExpress that are by default USB, and need only some minor changes to fit into your case.
There are also some laptops that have the keyboard and touchpad hooked up together with a controller, and the whole shebang connects to an internal USB header. With those laptops, the controller often has exposed pads or pins for the VCC, GND, RX and TX lanes that you can solder onto, essentially making a full USB keyboard.
fonix232 said:
Most older laptops use onboard controllers for the touchpad and the keyboard (but at least for the keyboard). This is a problem especially if you want to convert it into a USB keyboard, because without the controller, the keyboard itself is nothing more but a 8x18 diode matrix with a 25-pin connector. And since most manufacturers wire their keyboards differently, if it isn't a well researched model, especially if it's a model where the controller is ON the motherboard and not separate, you'll be out of luck (unless you know how to write your own firmware for the USB HID device for a compatible microcontroller like a Teensy).
However there are tons of very small keyboards that more or less fit a generic laptop keyboard's size on AliExpress that are by default USB, and need only some minor changes to fit into your case.
There are also some laptops that have the keyboard and touchpad hooked up together with a controller, and the whole shebang connects to an internal USB header. With those laptops, the controller often has exposed pads or pins for the VCC, GND, RX and TX lanes that you can solder onto, essentially making a full USB keyboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the answer, I figured that out by searching on Internet but I had hope for a solution :s (forums were old) but I think I shold find a workaround with a small keyboard, thanks for the tips ^^
Related
I just made my own "car dock" cable based on the information over the "Fun with resistors" thread.
Basically I have a cable with a micro-usb connector that switch my phone to "car dock" mode, audio via usb/aux and charging.
CHECK THE 2ND POST FOR UPDATES, PICTURES AND A QUICK VIDEO.
WARNING:
This cable can physically damage/destroy your phone if made incorrectly.
If you don't have experience soldering electronics and small parts maybe you should not try this.
The usb cable will NOT work for sync/data - just charging.
I'm not responsible if you damage or destroy your phone/property and/or injury yourself or others.
Use this instructions at your own risk.
Parts that I used:
micro usb male connector (Digi-Key pn: 609-4051-ND)
619K ohm resistor (Digi-Key pn: RNF14FTD619KCT-ND)
6ft 3.5mm Stereo Plug/Plug M/M Cable (MonoPrice.com pid: 644)
1.5ft USB 2.0 A Male to Micro 5pin Male 28/28AWG Cable (MonoPrice.com pid: 5137)
I should have used a longer cable but that's what I had at home
This is the pin-out for the usb connector:
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Preparations:
1) Cut one of the aux cable connectors and expose the 3 wires:
Yellow = common ground
White = right channel
Red = left channel
The left/right channel may be inverted, test on your phone before you make the cable.
2) Cut the micro usb connector from the usb cable and expose the 4 wires:
Red = +5vcc
Black = ground
Green = not used
White = not used
Soldering:
Start with the audio cable:
Solder left channel wire to pin 2
Solder right channel wire to pin 3
Do NOT solder the ground wire yet
Now with the usb cable:
Solder red wire wire to pin 1
Do NOT solder the ground (black wire) yet
With the resistor:
Solder 1 resistor leg to pin 4
Solder the other resistor leg + audio ground (yellow wire) + usb ground (black wire) to pin 5
Almost done...
Test all the connections for short-circuit with a digital multimeter
Triple check for the right cable on the right place, you don't want to put that +5vcc on the wrong pin, it will fry your phone!
Just finish it with some epoxy glue to make sure the cables won't break where you soldered them and some shrink tube for a polished finish.
You must go to Settings > Dock Settings > Audio output mode and enable it to have the audio-out working.
I will post pictures next week when I will make a new cable with longer usb and better finish.
The cable I have now works fine, it's just ugly...
I hope this info will be useful for someone
Thanks to TheBeano for the info about the resistors
* * U P D A T E * *
( a . k . a . v e r s i o n 2 . 0 )
Hello all!
Thank you to all the people who rated this thread and enjoyed the info
After building my first cable from two different cables and finishing it up with some epoxy putty I started searching for a better and easier way to build this cable.
While searching on some Chinese accessories website I've found an iPhone USB/aux cable that would make this build easier and nicer.
This is the USB/aux cable from DealExtreme.com (item #34654):
From eBay I got this micro-usb connector with a "housing" (link):
The resistor is the same from the original post:
With this parts in hand I started by taking the iPhone connector apart:
With the soldering iron I removed the connector and with an blade I removed the cable "terminator"(?) so I could expose more wire and use my own "terminator"(?):
Using a multimeter and my "pro-mod" I was able to verify the cables and plugs.
All cables matched so I started soldering:
After checking for short-circuits and fixing the mistake I always make (I invert left and right channels) it was time to squeeze everything inside that tiny housing:
It looks nice but now let's test it:
Pictures are worth 1,000 words but a video is priceless (don't mind the music):
Great write up!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using xda premium
Nice write up. Very useful. Thanks
Awesome, gunna order some of these parts.
Exactly What I Wanted
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Once I see a picture/video of it in action, I'll get the parts. Question is, are you going to make your own car dock for it? Or are you going to purchase a generic dock? I'd like something that I can slide the phone into easily (and have the phone be horizontal). I am curious about the possibility of getting Digital Audio out instead of Analog. You seem to be the expert, do you think that's possible? Thanks!
I'm 95% certain digital audio out is not possible, except maybe for MHL/HDMI audio output via the MHL adapter.
There just aren't any provisions for it.
Thanks guys for the replies!
I got some PM about selling the cable. Right now I can't do it as I don't have enough time to make a good and durable cable.
The cable I have is kinda put together with epoxy putty and some shrink tubes.
Today I tested the cable and it works fine on my car.
I just found some iPod/iPhone cable that I think can make this build be easier and faster, basically you will change the apple connector for the micro-usb and add the resistor. I still waiting for the parts to arrive to test this new idea.
As Entropy512 said digital audio isn't possible with this setup but I will look in to it in the future to see if it's possible to use the mhl adaptor just for the audio.
Tomorrow I will post the pictures and a small video from it working with my current cable.
Thanks once again for the replies!
This is awesome thanks!! If you can create a few of these I would definitely be in for buying one. I am hoping to replace my itouch in the car with the phone. I already have a nice dock thus just need a cable.
LGSilva said:
Thanks guys for the replies!
I got some PM about selling the cable. Right now I can't do it as I don't have enough time to make a good and durable cable.
The cable I have is kinda put together with epoxy putty and some shrink tubes.
Today I tested the cable and it works fine on my car.
I just found some iPod/iPhone cable that I think can make this build be easier and faster, basically you will change the apple connector for the micro-usb and add the resistor. I still waiting for the parts to arrive to test this new idea.
As Entropy512 said digital audio isn't possible with this setup but I will look in to it in the future to see if it's possible to use the mhl adaptor just for the audio.
Tomorrow I will post the pictures and a small video from it working with my current cable.
Thanks once again for the replies!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
CNLiberal said:
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use MHL->HDMI adapter then put in a HDMI->Digital audio converter to get the digital audio out without any modification to software. MonoPrice.com has both but I believe the later requires some external AC power.
I have an official Samsung car dock for my Captivate. After reading OP's post, I decided to mod that car dock. I stripe out the part that connects to Captivate USB port and contains microUSB socket for power and 3.5mm audio jack (it already has the required resisitor inside). Now all I need is some 5-wire microUSB male to female extension cable. This kind of cable is hard to come by but do exist.
I did some reading in the 'fun with resistors' thread, and while this mod looks to work, I'm worried about the lack of sufficient charging amperage. It seems that in order to do "high current charging" you need to short pins 4 and 5 on the micro USB plug. Well, those are in use by the audio output. This seems to be a _major_ design flaw in MHL. So basically, you'd have to turn off anything you don't need (WiFi primarily, maybe Bluetooth if you don't want integrated hands-free with your car's head-unit) in order to get an actual charge. So maybe this cable with a Tasker function to turn off those services and activate your Car Home app.
Please take what I say with a grain of salt. Again, I'm very new to Android and I'm probably wrong.
CNLiberal said:
I did some reading in the 'fun with resistors' thread, and while this mod looks to work, I'm worried about the lack of sufficient charging amperage. It seems that in order to do "high current charging" you need to short pins 4 and 5 on the micro USB plug. Well, those are in use by the audio output. This seems to be a _major_ design flaw in MHL. So basically, you'd have to turn off anything you don't need (WiFi primarily, maybe Bluetooth if you don't want integrated hands-free with your car's head-unit) in order to get an actual charge. So maybe this cable with a Tasker function to turn off those services and activate your Car Home app.
Please take what I say with a grain of salt. Again, I'm very new to Android and I'm probably wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The device assumes that a proper high-current supply is present when a dock or MHL ID resistor is detected.
---------- Post added at 01:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 PM ----------
CNLiberal said:
So digital audio out is not possible (that's kinda what I figured). But what about getting a USB->Digital Audio Out? I realize the kernel would have to support a device like this. I'm very new to the Android scene (less than a week). But I'd think that it would be possible. I can't post links yet, but it was a $25 USB->SPDIF device on Amazon. The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a way to eliminate the "road noise" (alternator noise) from my music.
And how are you controlling your music in your car? Do you have a remote for the phone? Bluetooth? Or are you doing it the "old fashioned way". LoL! Thanks again for your efforts!
Jim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In theory, I believe the device has USB Host/USB OTG support - but I know very little about enabling it. It MIGHT be possible to get USB sound cart to sort-of work - but getting the phone to route audio to the "new" interface would be extremely difficult.
I used to deal with Digikey decades ago .....
Are they selling "onesies" of parts now or do you have to buy multiples?
The items that I've listed you can buy just 1.
They have other items where the minimum order is 5000.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using xda premium
Mouser is usually a bit better about minimum order quantity though - I think digikey improved over the years in that regard.
Usually Mouser has their quantity price breaks earlier.
Entropy512 said:
Mouser is usually a bit better about minimum order quantity though - I think digikey improved over the years in that regard.
Usually Mouser has their quantity price breaks earlier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mouser sells singles.
Sent from my Samsung SGH-I897 using XDA Premium
Stevenrogers_420 said:
Mouser sells singles.
Sent from my Samsung SGH-I897 using XDA Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that - that's why I've always preferred them. But I think digikey has improved so that they're closer to Mouser for small quantity orders now.
Going to try this later this week, should be awesome if it works!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
bunnybash said:
Going to try this later this week, should be awesome if it works!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm this works.. just finished building it tonight and functions fine.
Have fun!
So, i've seen a few pics of the dongle both assembled and disassembled... my question: if i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it? Physically it looks like it would fit, im just wondering if it will function... any ideas?
Edit:
To avoid confusion, i want to go [Prime] -> [Dock] -> [GPS]
The dock has both a male AND female connection.
Aparently it does not function as of yet, might be software? What pins are being used on the gps and what pins get passed through on the dock? If were lucky its just a software thing, or maybe it requires some pins to get passed to the dock connector.
We had the first person who opened up said it didn't work when he plugged it into the dock. The pin layout might be different or could be a software thing. If a software issues, developers here should be able to modify the file path or whatever that the GPS software in prime looks at. Instead of looking for dongle at the prime 40pin connector, maybe it could be rerouted to the dock 40pin connector. Or software change that'll detect either and link it up accordingly.
Plug it in to your keyboard dock you mean?
>i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it?
Mating connectors use the male-female concept. Tablet plugs into dock, so one is male, the other is female. Dongle plugs into tab, so it is opposite gender of tab, and same gender as dock. Ergo, dongle can't plug into dock, coz like-gendered connectors can't mate.
---------- Post added at 02:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 AM ----------
BTW, for those who want to mod toys at the chip level, might as well get well acquainted with your soldering iron. Little bitties in dongle means SMT fun. Contrary to popular belief, you can do SMT stuff w/o fancy tools. A vid primer, then:
e.mote said:
>i disassemble my dongle and plug it into my dock can i use it?
Mating connectors use the male-female concept. Tablet plugs into dock, so one is male, the other is female. Dongle plugs into tab, so it is opposite gender of tab, and same gender as dock. Ergo, dongle can't plug into dock, coz like-gendered connectors can't mate.
---------- Post added at 02:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 AM ----------
BTW, for those who want to mod toys at the chip level, might as well get well acquainted with your soldering iron. Little bitties in dongle means SMT fun. Contrary to popular belief, you can do SMT stuff w/o fancy tools. A vid primer, then:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end. Plus someone who opened it up already said they plugged it into the dock but it wouldn't work.
I know what you saying about like gender adapters not being able to mate but I believe the dock has a male adapter, to go into the prime for dock connection, and another female adapter on it so it can be charged at the same time.
demandarin is correct, the dock does in fact have both a male connection to connect to the prime and a female connection which the power adapter connects to.
Guess i would have to look into if the dock passes through all the pins or just a select few, however data at least should work, i connect my computer to my prime through the dock all the time to transfer files (instead of undocking the prime and connecting that way)
Edited the first post to include information thus far.
>But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end.
If the port is only used for charging, there'd be no data lines going to it. There's no reason to daisy-chain the charging connector to the docking connector. If you want to do that, then you'd have to figure out the pin-out. Even then, the odds of something going poof is still pretty good. This ventures into the territory of "if you have to ask, then the answer is no." It's not a good idea.
If you want working GPS and working dock at same time, ditch the dongle and go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward. If you're good, you may be able to have an inset port for the MCX connector and have nothing sticking out. Not sure if there's enough space to do that, though, so you may have a slight nub sticking out.
Also, the fact that you can't turn off the dongle is another issue with a Daisy chain solution
e.mote said:
>go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you talking about the beer can mod with wire or did I miss a thread along the way.
>Are you talking about the beer can mod with wire or did I miss a thread along the way.
I'm talking about an aftermarket GPS antenna like these below. You'll need to mount a SMA or preferably a smaller MCX port, then jerry-rig some power for the "active" antenna (because GPS signal is weak, it needs an amp to compensate for signal loss, which needs power). Come to think of it, since cable length isn't excessive, you can try a passive ant and see what happens. The key is to get the antenna element outside of the metal case, and replacing the crappy internal PFA one. The connector is intended for quick-on/off use.
http://google.com/products?q=active+gps+antenna+mcx
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For further info,
https://google.com/search?q=gps+antenna+mod
e.mote said:
>But doesn't the dock also have another 40pin female connector on the side of it? This is how it gets charged with the prime power adapter that has 40pin male adapter on the end.
If the port is only used for charging, there'd be no data lines going to it. There's no reason to daisy-chain the charging connector to the docking connector. If you want to do that, then you'd have to figure out the pin-out. Even then, the odds of something going poof is still pretty good. This ventures into the territory of "if you have to ask, then the answer is no." It's not a good idea.
If you want working GPS and working dock at same time, ditch the dongle and go with active GPS antenna mod for the built-in GPS. It's simpler and more straightforward. If you're good, you may be able to have an inset port for the MCX connector and have nothing sticking out. Not sure if there's enough space to do that, though, so you may have a slight nub sticking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The port isn't just used for charging on the dock. I can plug the USB to the dock with my tablet attached and can transfer data fine.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
kwazytazz said:
The port isn't just used for charging on the dock. I can plug the USB to the dock with my tablet attached and can transfer data fine.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No but the 40 pin on the dock may well just be used for charging .. data may be connected to the SD/USB sub board
Deffo needs more investigation .. tempting indeed !
Hello all,
I have the following problem: The USB connector side of the standard charger cable for my TF101G is damaged beyond repair. The wall wart is fine.
In my naivity I bought the standard USB adapter (namely this: http://www.amazon.com/Transformer-T...INXQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1336838294&sr=8-6 ) believing that a "standard" USB Type A male -- male cable to connect the adapter to the wall wart will do the trick.
After finding it doesn't I browsed (quickly...) this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1087321 . It seems that the adapter is using some different wiring...
I tried this with both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 (male - male) cable between the wall wart and the USB adapter to no avail.
Question is simple: Can I use the adapter I bought -- via some easy modding of the USB cables if needed -- to charge the tablet (and keyboard) ? Or I simply need to buy another charger ?
Thanks,
Florian
No, the pins used for charging is not in use on the adapter.
You can quite easily fix your cable though, if the 40-pin connector is still intact. Its just 4 (ok, 5 actually) wires.
If its only part of the cable thats broken, you can just cut the cable and then cut a USB3 cable and solder them together. red to red, black to black, white to white etc... the 2nd red wire is supposed to be attached to pin7 of the usb3 cable. I dont know the color of that though.
The wall wart outputs 15 VDC @ 1.2 Amps when the TF is detected. If not, it will output the standard USB 5 VDC @ 2.0 Amps. Any voltage less than 11 VDC will not show the tablet charging.
A USB port (5 VDC @ 0.5 Amps) will charge with the screen off at a rate of 3% per hour.
An iPad charger (5 VDC @ 2.0 Amps) will charge with the screen off at a rate of 10% per hour.
If you are looking for a charger, it will have to output between 12 and 16 VDC across pin 1 and 4 of a USB connector.
You can make your own, or try to find one. Dynex makes one, or you can check some stores. ASUS sells them online, as do some other vendors. Depending on where you are located some users may be able to help you find one.
There is plenty of info on the forum on DIY chargers and such. Here is one thread:
So you can only trickle charge without ASUS charger?
or you can just build your own pc usb charger (see link in my sig)
Thats my charger just went tits up aswell. 3 days of gtee left! Tried freezer but no joy. Looks like its outputing something by the indicator on the tf itself but % still drops, dock indicator light doesnt come on.
Cables ok as pc installed drivers etc when connected.
scottyf79 said:
Thats my charger just went tits up aswell. 3 days of gtee left! Tried freezer but no joy. Looks like its outputing something by the indicator on the tf itself but % still drops, dock indicator light doesnt come on.
Cables ok as pc installed drivers etc when connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like mine... it refuses to send 15v anymore, it only sends 5v.
Im going to rip mine apart, when I get some free time, and see if bridging the connections will help kick it into 15v mode again.
Goatshocker said:
No, the pins used for charging is not in use on the adapter.
You can quite easily fix your cable though, if the 40-pin connector is still intact. Its just 4 (ok, 5 actually) wires.
If its only part of the cable thats broken, you can just cut the cable and then cut a USB3 cable and solder them together. red to red, black to black, white to white etc... the 2nd red wire is supposed to be attached to pin7 of the usb3 cable. I dont know the color of that though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Welll...Tbh I'm not so sure I want to take the knife to an USB 3.0 cable....
If you look at the attached pics of the (damaged) connector you'll see the Red & Orange cable (still) soldered to Pin 1, the Shielding was (seemingly) connected to Pin 4, while on the other side (the "top" of the connector -- see 2nd pic) i have the Yellow Wire... well, not sure where ...Shielding ? Also, unclear where this yellow wire goes..
Anyway. My "problem" is that
1) Bought the USB adapter in vein (stupid, $45 mistake). Anyway, lesson learned.
2) I still isn't clear to me on what wire has to go where on the USB 3.0 side and I don't really want to take risks in frying any part (the tablet or the wall wart...)
Thanks anyway. Still looking for alternatives / safe way to reconnect this...
Florian
scottyf79 said:
Thats my charger just went tits up aswell. 3 days of gtee left! Tried freezer but no joy. Looks like its outputing something by the indicator on the tf itself but % still drops, dock indicator light doesnt come on.
Cables ok as pc installed drivers etc when connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not to throw a wrench in the works here, but I have a cable that installs drivers and functions just fine when connected to computer, but will not charge from either of the two wall adapters I own. Another cable I have will work with both adapters.
TF101 Megatron 1.0.4 Guevor test 17c
I bought one of these 2m cables from ebay and they work fine, you may find cheaper but this one does work and its longer that the original which is a bonus.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110837341306&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
Edit :- I also have a 3m USB3 cable which I can use as an extention to the existing cable (or the 2m one above) so I can sit quite a way from the plug socket without a problem.
Spot of luck.....Asus tf came in to my store to get sent back for repair. So my tf is now happily getting a charge from the borrowed adaptor until ups pick it up
My charger was picked up yesterday and is currently tracked to Germany. Just as a tip for anyone - rma your tf yourself! Don't take it to the retailer to do it......Asus are hopeless with the retailers and seem to think its OK just to string it along knowing the retailer will take the flack.
pyro254750 said:
Not to throw a wrench in the works here, but I have a cable that installs drivers and functions just fine when connected to computer, but will not charge from either of the two wall adapters I own. Another cable I have will work with both adapters.
TF101 Megatron 1.0.4 Guevor test 17c
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spot on m8. It was the cable. Charger was returned back to me today. Really good service despite the bad rma experiences for others.
Does anyone know where you can get a us outlet snap on plug for the stock charger? I just traded for a tf101 and one of the prongs is broken..
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
same problem
My kids did tear my cable and I have the white, yellow and green wires to reconnect. Is your sequence right? ?I mean is yellow connected to pin 7/15 volt contact?
Regards
FlorianO said:
Welll...Tbh I'm not so sure I want to take the knife to an USB 3.0 cable....
If you look at the attached pics of the (damaged) connector you'll see the Red & Orange cable (still) soldered to Pin 1, the Shielding was (seemingly) connected to Pin 4, while on the other side (the "top" of the connector -- see 2nd pic) i have the Yellow Wire... well, not sure where ...Shielding ? Also, unclear where this yellow wire goes..
Anyway. My "problem" is that
1) Bought the USB adapter in vein (stupid, $45 mistake). Anyway, lesson learned.
2) I still isn't clear to me on what wire has to go where on the USB 3.0 side and I don't really want to take risks in frying any part (the tablet or the wall wart...)
Thanks anyway. Still looking for alternatives / safe way to reconnect this...
Florian
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wiring diagram
I drawed a wiring diagram for usb cable.
*****thecenk.wordpress.com/2013/03/03/usb-3-0-data-charger-cable-for-asus-eeepad-tf101-tf201-sl201-wiring-diagram/***
thecenk said:
I drawed a wiring diagram for usb cable.
*****thecenk.wordpress.com/2013/03/03/usb-3-0-data-charger-cable-for-asus-eeepad-tf101-tf201-sl201-wiring-diagram/***
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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Can anyone who has the dk30 dock connector throw it on a tester to find out which pin is positive and which is negative in relation to the phone? I have my ultra coming today and would like to cnc myself a few docks (One for the shop, one for home and a wider dock plate for my truck) at my shop instead of buying 3 docks and customizing one for the truck.. I am planning on using some thick acrylic to make the docks. I will share the results here when I get them done.
Thanks!
Someone has to have purchased one of these docks who has a simple voltage tester!
After reading the bad reviews on the dock, I want to start making these custom docks. I have everything I need to make the docks except the pin layout on the device. I don't want to risk applying current backwards seeing the connector is only able to be installed one way.
All I need to know is which pin is positive and I can make the mold for the docks.
I would like to know this too! Please someone with the DK30 make a quick measurement!
Regards
parts ordered
I have pogo pins, micro usb breakout boards, and small rare earth magnets on order. I plan on making a mold for a connector which can be used in different dock configurations. I have a cnc router so can simply make either wood or plastic docks (maybe even aluminum) to receive the custom connector. If all goes well, I should be able to reproduce them. If someone can take this reading for me, I will send them a dock when I complete them (only the first person). I will also post the results in a new thread. 4 days with the ultra and I'm already sick of the doors over the ports. I can do better than the sony dock for sure!
Answered
This was answered by Luisarn in another thread:
Quote:
Round one is the + (5V) and the oval one is the GND
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2403846&page=9
Thanks Luisarn and thanks Bin4ry for asking over there.
jayty97 said:
This was answered by Luisarn in another thread:
Quote:
Round one is the + (5V) and the oval one is the GND
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2403846&page=9
Thanks Luisarn and thanks Bin4ry for asking over there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly
Looking forward to build a own one
Regards
Made a prototype!
Bin4ry said:
Exactly
Looking forward to build a own one
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I made a prototype out of some white corian while waiting for the rest of the parts to come in. I ultimately want to be able to plug a micro usb into the back of the dock as that is mainly what I have everywhere already. The full sized usb on the Sony dock is just stupid! Anyway this is just a quick one.. no magnets, just gravity to make the connection. I will be making an improved version as soon as my parts come in. I also plan on incorporating an nfc tag so I can set up the phone to open car mode when on the road, a clock when next to the bed, etc.
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jayty97 said:
I made a prototype out of some white corian while waiting for the rest of the parts to come in. I ultimately want to be able to plug a micro usb into the back of the dock as that is mainly what I have everywhere already. The full sized usb on the Sony dock is just stupid! Anyway this is just a quick one.. no magnets, just gravity to make the connection. I will be making an improved version as soon as my parts come in. I also plan on incorporating an nfc tag so I can set up the phone to open car mode when on the road, a clock when next to the bed, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One question. How can you plug USB while docking? Seems your dock cover the USB slot, like other dock I saw (expect sony dock).
Sent from my C6802 using Tapatalk 4
bASKOU said:
One question. How can you plug USB while docking? Seems your dock cover the USB slot, like other dock I saw (expect sony dock).
Sent from my C6802 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure why I would want to use the dock at the same time as connection ting the device Over USB. I use wireless transfer for files and seldom have a reason to plug in other than for charging. In fact I Wonder if there would be a problem connecting 2 power sources at once.
USB can be use for plug OTG as well. Like usb keys, xbox controller and as much usb devices android accept. It is true that each person use things differently, prior use for me when I finally will get a dock will be for can use OTG and charge my phone in the same time. As main reason I limit use of Keyboard, mouse and xbox controller on android devices is mainly because I can't charge in same time. Magnetic charging really seduced me ^^
Sent from my C6802 using Tapatalk 4
jayty97 said:
I made a prototype out of some white corian while waiting for the rest of the parts to come in. I ultimately want to be able to plug a micro usb into the back of the dock as that is mainly what I have everywhere already. The full sized usb on the Sony dock is just stupid! Anyway this is just a quick one.. no magnets, just gravity to make the connection. I will be making an improved version as soon as my parts come in. I also plan on incorporating an nfc tag so I can set up the phone to open car mode when on the road, a clock when next to the bed, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would be interested in 1 of your docks or maybe you could make a custom 1 for me
that I can use in my car . I do have something in mind , let me know if you'd be interested ?
PAPER1 said:
I would be interested in 1 of your docks or maybe you could make a custom 1 for me
that I can use in my car . I do have something in mind , let me know if you'd be interested ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am waiting on some micro USB breakout boards as well as Some magnets to play around with. I will keep this current design for use at my shop, but am planning a car dock and one for next to the bed. Both will have a nfc chip embedded in them. I will post the final product here or will more than likely link to a new thread. I have to see how long they take me.. I have a lot of work at my shop right now. If I can make an easily repeatable design I may make a few to sell.. I'll let you know....
bASKOU said:
USB can be use for plug OTG as well. Like usb keys, xbox controller and as much usb devices android accept. It is true that each person use things differently, prior use for me when I finally will get a dock will be for can use OTG and charge my phone in the same time. As main reason I limit use of Keyboard, mouse and xbox controller on android devices is mainly because I can't charge in same time. Magnetic charging really seduced me ^^
Sent from my C6802 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everybody definitely has their own preference! I use a bluetooth mouse, keyboard and controller. Otg was way too cumbersome, especially when having to use a powered hub. I love the ultra because i can log in remotely to my computer and tweak cad drawings on the road if in a pinch using the mouse and keyboard.. the screen size and resolution on this thing are great. Bluetooth just works so much better for me. i have never had a need to attach a thumb drive to my phone.
A dock which allows you to access the usb port would be easy enough though. I simply don't ever want to open the door to the usb port again Hell, I may even make a custom connector for use with a power pack so that can use the dock pins as well!
jayty97 said:
Everybody definitely has their own preference! I use a bluetooth mouse, keyboard and controller. Otg was way too cumbersome, especially when having to use a powered hub. I love the ultra because i can log in remotely to my computer and tweak cad drawings on the road if in a pinch using the mouse and keyboard.. the screen size and resolution on this thing are great. Bluetooth just works so much better for me. i have never had a need to attach a thumb drive to my phone.
A dock which allows you to access the usb port would be easy enough though. I simply don't ever want to open the door to the usb port again Hell, I may even make a custom connector for use with a power pack so that can use the dock pins as well!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For me nothing is more reliable than a wire connection "fastest, most stable and never need to charge". I agree wireless is more comfortable but not work better.
Sent from my C6802 using Tapatalk 4
bASKOU said:
For me nothing is more reliable than a wire connection "fastest, most stable and never need to charge". I agree wireless is more comfortable but not work better.
Sent from my C6802 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I was trying to work with a hub and otg to use a mouse and keyboard I the past, the results were not reliable at all.. The newer blue tooth stuff (I'm using all 3.0) has been very dependable for me.. Each use case is different though.
anything new on this ???
PAPER1 said:
anything new on this ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Been busy with work and the new baby.. I have a final version of the regular dock done... I'm working on the car dock.. I'll update this week. I'll put up some more pics with the phone in the dock etc.. For now,a pic of the the finished dock:
jayty97 said:
Been busy with work and the new baby.. I have a final version of the regular dock done... I'm working on the car dock.. I'll update this week. I'll put up some more pics with the phone in the dock etc.. For now,a pic of the the finished dock:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks good , will you be making a version that works with a case on the phone ?
For example I'm using a Incipio DualPro That I cut & modified in the spot
were the Magnet charger hooks up . I would be interest in both car & desk mount
if it would work with my case on & a set of both for when I don't use my case .
THANKS for the update .
Any Updates on your docks ???
Was also wondering if you might want to tackle a project & make a belt clip the phone can
slide in similar to this 1 , but maybe with the holder section on the magnet side placed above
& below the charge section . I would be very willing to pay for a couple & a friend who has the
Z ultra also would like a couple . I'm sure there is a market for it .
link to example of what I'm talking about .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Hard-...t=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cases&hash=item3f29d6db91
I am talking about just the section are Phone would slide into so we can clip it onto our belt , computer bag , backpack , pocket , ect ...
please let me know what you think ??? :fingers-crossed:
These car docks could turn into your next business venture.
I'm an OTR truck driver. I use my Note 2 for all the normal stuff plus I have a truck GPS that runs on it. Needless to say that it is on my dash 24x7 due to other trucking apps. One of my big problems is due to the vibration USB ports don't last long. I love the magnetic charge. I like the high sides for control of the unit. I do have 110 volt power running to the dashboard to plug things in.
If you decide you are going to make a few of these let me know how much. I'm sure truck drivers will eat these up. I can see where these phones and going to be popular. For those who don't know for a truck driver to basically pick up their phone and dial it the fine for him us over $2000. The fine that goes to the company for the same offense is over $11,000. If you are lucky enough to be an owner-operator you get to pay both fines. The use of the processor, OK Google, and other voice command features will explode with this type of phone. We are still allowed to use bluetooth to talk and you can press the button on the side of your headset to do things.
ErAzOr2k said:
Does anyone found a way to get 5V directly from the device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I did. And i prepared a HOW-TO. See snapshots, and pdf in the attachments..
Now the USB have power. I do not get unmounted USB anymore. Maybe you want to try with more current (2A instead of 1 A) but it might damage your USBs.
--update--
Bear in mind that with the current setting, the USBs will have power even when the unit is off. Pendrives and so on will have no problems, as they will shutdown when unmounted by the unit. But if you leave something plugged, it will be consuming battery of your car. It has 2 sides: if you want to charge your phone, you won't need to have the car on. Just leave it there. But, if you forget something there plugged in, in may drain your battery.
If you want a non-permanent USB, you just have to change the pin from which the 12Vin is taken. Instead of taking the Bat(yellow), you must take the ACCin(red).
I hope you like it !!!
typos1 said:
Its great, apart from the fact that it helps only KGL users ! How did you work it all out, so I can try and do it for KLDs and JYs ?
---------- Post added at 05:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:31 PM ----------
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. No, it is very general and should be applicable to all units. The main thing is:
- find a source of 12V from the unit (the closest one to the USBs is the harness socket that is on the unit, i.e. the big socket with the fuse). You also need the GN to close the circuit (also on the socket)
- tap this source to the converter to 5V
- tap the 5V to the Vin of USBs. (this wiring is universal for all USBs)
I cannot say all units have the exact wiring of the harness, but it would be very weird if they do not. As a rule of thumb, if the Batt(yellow) and Ground(Black) wires of your unit are in the same positions as mine (see pic below), you can follow the HOW TO and it will work. If the position of these two wires in the socket of your unit is not as mine, then you just have to be careful in figuring out which pin it is in the board (you will see that the pins at the bottom of the board are mirrored with respect to the socket/wire diagram), but the picture I post should be enough for every one to find out their pin.
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dsa8310 said:
I inspected my simple USB hub and I noticed that there is a Schottky diode involved (type SS14) which, I guess, is protecting +5V coming from the USB "in" port from the external +5V voltage.
Unless such diode is present, internally, in the HU, for its (three, in my case) USB ports, there could be a risk involved in powering directly the internal USB ports from an external source.
But I am not an expert here. The low forward voltage of the Schottky diode makes sense, though.
So I would try to identify the internal powering path of the USB ports and insert the Schottky diode there, to be safe.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also thought about that, how to prevent eventual high tension on the Vin of the USB that may burn the plugged drives. At first I wanted to take the current from the fuse, so it is prevented although at 10A.... so in the end quite useless.
But then, I realized that since there's the converter between the 12V and the USB and it cannot output more than 5V 1A, in case of high voltage the converter will cope with it and in the worst case scenario the converter will be burnt. So, I think I am on the safe side here. If one wants to be safer, you could add a fuse between the converter and the USB Vin.
I am not an expert either, so if anyone says this is total bullsh*t, I will try to fix it :silly:
---
devilsoft said:
Yesterday I managed to make DailyRoads Voyager to work. I downloaded the MTC apps uncompiled sources from this forum, and I studied the MTC Travel (Car Record) app sources, to look for clues on settings I need to set to DailyRoads Voyager, and I found them! You need to set in "Settings -> Video" the next values:
- Video Quality: choose Custom
- Video Resolution: choose 640 x 480
- Video Encoder: H.264
- Bitrate: Medium or High
- Frame Rate: High (30fps) (This is what it makes it work finally, as by default is medium selected, and CarRecord has it at 100fps)
- File format: mp4
I also change the settings in File storage, to save the videos on USB Storage (i don't know if this affects the recording), as I have a 120GB SSD.
Hope this will help anybody which has a camera attached to this HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't look at the front page for a while, but I just had a quick look and noticed that it has a link to this post (#8383). It would be good to include a little bit more information.
The above applies to no-name cams purchased with the HU. They are not high quality and can record only at 640x480 even with DailyRoads Voyager. CarRecorder can only use 640x480 with any camera. However, better quality cameras can record with higher resolutions when used with DailyRoads Voyager or another app. I tested Logitech C930e: very good on 720p, and it can even record with 1080p, but with about half the frame rate of 720p, so 720p seems to be the best option.
------------------------------------------------------------
Also the front page "3G USB Dongle not working properly" has a link to post #7614. I don't see why.
---------- Post added at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 AM ----------
dsa8310 said:
Regarding the USB protection with that Schottky diode. Let me put it this way: there are two (ideal) tension generators in parallel; they may be of sensible equal voltage, and their internal impedance is not zero, but very small anyway, and they may be internally protected or NOT.
So, I would protect with the Schottky diode at least the HU USB generator, to be safe, not sorry, in the particular case when the USB device is unplugged (or missing!).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see this solution similar to two batteries connected in parallel. The current will go from one to another, unless they are exactly the same. In which direction? When no USB device is connected, and the original source is protected with a Schottky diode, and the DC-DC regulator probably has something similar, there should be no current in either direction. Why not check it? It's more complex when a USB device is connected. From which source will it draw the power? This depends on the internal impedance of both sources, as well as the impedance of the USB device.
Regardless, it looks like it's working for those who made the modification, so it's probably OK. I'd rather use the DC-DC regulator to power a powered USB hub.
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TooBusy said:
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Also the front page "3G USB Dongle not working properly" has a link to post #7614. I don't see why.
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It used to contain a link to aliexpress with DC-DC converter and a 3G dongle. i think Malaysk must have removed it.
In that case wound´t be better to completely cut the original USB power and use only a 2A new supply for example? the same as disconnecting the internal MIC to the BT.
dsa8310 said:
Right, opening the HU just for the USB, I don't think it's worth doing it, either.
Not to mention that my KLD unit has three USB cables, so identifying the USB circuit is more complicated, behind the HU group of connectors.
While indeed, as you pointed out, the externally powered hub (with same DC-DC adapter, if one must) seems safer, because of the (hopefully) existing Schottky diode.
That being said, if I ever have the opportunity, I will keep the hidden/internal USB powering solution (plus Schottky diode!) in mind.
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I did that because I have a cable from the back of the unit to the center console. I made a hole in the console where I installed the USB socket. It looks OEM and I like it. But in the previous working conditions, it was useless.
I do not want to have a cable running on the car from the lighter and so on. So, the idea was to fix the USB I already installed on the console. It was easy, and it works.
Probably is not the best thing for everyone, but in my case it worked
patagonia1 said:
In that case wound´t be better to completely cut the original USB power and use only a 2A new supply for example? the same as disconnecting the internal MIC to the BT.
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I did not think about that. It seems a good idea, so you prevent any overload. I think 2A is too much. AFAIK, USB2 can work from 0.5-1A. USB3 to 1A (also Apple chargers work at 1A). i do not know what would happen with 2A if you do not have a hub which splits your current in 2 or 3 USBs.
patagonia1 said:
In that case wound´t be better to completely cut the original USB power and use only a 2A new supply for example? the same as disconnecting the internal MIC to the BT.
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Click to collapse
That sounds better to me. And you don't need to cut anything. Connect the cable to the unit, the other end USB female connector. Test it and report back. You might get many followers.
---------- Post added at 01:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:46 AM ----------
pakidermo5000 said:
I did not think about that. It seems a good idea, so you prevent any overload. I think 2A is too much. AFAIK, USB2 can work from 0.5-1A. USB3 to 1A (also Apple chargers work at 1A). i do not know what would happen with 2A if you do not have a hub which splits your current in 2 or 3 USBs.
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2A would be the max. How much is used, depends on how much is needed by connected devices.
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dsa8310 said:
Nice!
Now, let me pour some more water on your solution.
I have the impression that the yellow +12V cable is a permanent/battery +12V.
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This is something I did not consider, but of which I was aware. The USB led turns off when the HU stops. Either it is only on when the USB is mounted, or the power is always on. I will try today and see if the phone charges all the time. In that case, I would just need to sold it to the ACC. Ultimately I could use the red/ACC to open close a relay that would be connected to the yellow/BAT cable.
dsa8310 said:
While the red/ACC +12V cable might not be suitable as power supply.
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why ?
dsa8310 said:
Not sure. But take it under consideration.
However, the +12V (hidden) accessory socket is for sure on only when ACC/ignition is on.
So, maybe you'd want to find that feed for your HU USB power (its equivalent may be inside the HU, too?)
And, don't forget about the Schottky diode.
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I don't exactly know where to put the diode. Should it go between the USBsocket and the internal circuit that powers the USB socket ?
It will require major mods. I maybe would prefer desconnecting the USB somehow and just power it from the loom socket as TooBusy suggested.
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dsa8310 said:
I kind of know that yellow is permanent/battery because installing the new firmware works with the key in the off position.
I think red/ACC may be under-powered? (it just signals the key position?)
Maybe you could find a common internal +5V path for all your USB ports. Insert the Schottky diode (e.g. SS14) on that path (forward position).
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Well, atm it is not a big deal to have a permanent hot USB. I do not leave anything plugged in the car so as to avoid robberies. I could examine the PCB and see where the 12V pins go, and then tap it frominner parts of the circuit. But, I am not willing to take the HU off again... I have it secured with a screw, so it means I have to remove the glovebox and everything to remove the HU. However, I doubt there will be any problem with my current installation (even without the diode) as the converter will not output more than 5V 1A. If something happens or I modify it, I will let you know.
Best and safest way to power the USB port is to make yourself a powered USB hub.
You either buy a normal Powered USB Hub that has a 5v adapter and and a DC-DC converter from 12v to 5v 3A, to power it or a regular USB Hub non powered and make it powered.
Parts needed:
-regular USB 2.0 Hub
-DC-DC 12v to 5v 3A converter
Converter: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Con...785?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item418e981131
1. Open the USB hub.
2. Locate the GND and VCC cables (+5V) .
3. Cut ONLY the original VCC (+5V ) that comes from the cable that plugs to the unit.
4. To the GND pin, solder the - cable that comes from the converter
5. To the VCC pin, solder the + cable that comes from the converter
6. Assemble back the usb hub.
7. Power the converter. You can take power directly from the main harness of the radio: + from the red cable, and - directly from from the case of the unit or from the black wire.
guys I have been researching this for a while I want to pull the trigger, can you please let me know if what I am planning make sense?
Using the power from the back of the cigaret lighter I get a 12V to feed into this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...883693?hash=item58a544fc2d:g:augAAOxy9ERSQ9HE
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professiona...005051?hash=item4d289f383b:g:YggAAOSwaNBUc~f4
from here I will feed the 5v 10amp to the USB hub:
I preffer this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Practical-P...029979?hash=item567a7a689b:g:FiwAAOSwu4BVvFWS
or maybe this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-Hig...844946?hash=item1a0947b892:g:F1MAAOSwHmhV8y71
the USB hub will plug in to the USB port of the Joying head unit,
I will use 24 to 20-AWG USB cables and
draw one to my phone (galaxy s5) by the driver door
and draw 2 more microUSB inside the cabin for passengers and other stuff inside the electronics.
maybe 10amp is over kill but I would rather have more than less.
1) Does anyone see any problem with my plan?
2) Any idea which USB hub and voltage step down I should chose?
I know USB 3 hub is not needed but it does not have any cables and I am hoping it as a bit of better internal compared to the USB 2
Has anyone found a usb hub with car plug adapter plug I can purchase extra? It's all gonna stay in my glove box and have no problem running power cord.. I just can't find one anywhere that tells me the external power plug size so I can buy a car adapter... I keep getting usb camera unplugged
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superbass311 said:
Has anyone found a usb hub with car plug adapter plug I can purchase extra? It's all gonna stay in my glove box and have no problem running power cord.. I just can't find one anywhere that tells me the external power plug size so I can buy a car adapter... I keep getting usb camera unplugged
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am just going to open up the hub and solder the feed.
doctorman said:
I am just going to open up the hub and solder the feed.
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Click to collapse
I'm on my way to buy a hub and car adapter I'll let you know the outcome
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---------- Post added at 12:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------
I need to find our if dash cam and flash drive can work on the same hub...
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