Related
today my at&t tilt2 accidently fell from my hands and got heavily scratched on the chrome shell (bezel) the bezel even got few small dents & & the chrome colour came out
so i wanted to ask how can i remove this bezel,as i thought to remove it sand it & then paint it chrome again
& also suggest me is my idea good or not
no rplys? atleast tell me hw can i remove those scratches & dents
i wanna know this too since i just dropped mine today and its a fairly small chip but i still get a little crazy over it
please help us out
Sorry for bad news but to remove the bezel you'll need to fully dissassemble your TP2. You'll have to dismantle the main housing to unscrew hinges. Once you separate the upper part with LCD you'll be able to open it, and then separate the bezel from LCD and digitizer. I've done it myself couple of times but be aware that is not a 5 minute job (especially if you're new to this). You'll need tools - small philips screwdriver, small star screwdriver an special plastic prying tool (couple of them, they get broken easily, you don't have to use them but you'll most likely scratch the phone). You can get tool sets on ebay. Word of advice - if only possible try not to separate LCD and digitizer. Once you get dust and/or fingerprints between them it's a HELL of a job to get rid of them.
Check out mike channon's site for dissassembly guide.
Good luck guys!
EDIT: Personally, I would rather try to do some touch-up repairs without opening the phone if possible.
touch up repairs like what? suggest me something specific
I want to replace my screen and bezel but don't mind stripping the whole phone down if thats what is needed.
Try this link http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pdacenter.ru%2Frazborka%2Fhtc_touch_pro2%2F&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
As mentioned by pjm77 this does not look easy, and chances are if your not very careful you could mess up your phone.
By touch up I mean trying to paint the damage to make it less visible. Can't really say if that's possible in your case - judge for yourself. Dissassembling the whole phone is by all means possible, I was able to do it several times and I'm just an enthusiast. Just bear in mind that unless you're really skillfull and experienced you end up with a little damage here and there (clips broken, scratches etc.), it's time consuming and there is a risk of serious damage. In the end you may just put a lot of effort into it and be a little disappointed with the final result. But maybe not, it's up to you. Whatever your decision is - good luck!
EDIT: To be more specific I'll give you the real life example of touch-up. I had an awful, long and deep scratch on the back of my LCD (you can see that black, metal part when you slide out the keyboard). I took the masking tape and precisely shaped it in a way that only the scratch was visible (I'd say less than 0,5 of mm wide). Then I took a black paint (originally for my mother's renault) and painted the scratch. Aftrer half an hour I removed the masking tape. The repair is not perfect in any way, the scratch is still there if you know where to look. But I just never noticed it again and simply forgot about it until today.
I used a touch up pen from Staples that has metallic ink. It was a Silver Pilot Pen with Fine Point tip. Like pjm said, touch up paint isn't going to make it look perfect, but the scuffs on the chrome bezel are less noticeable. The ink is a little lighter than the chrome but makes the black cuffs disappear and is nice because you can get small marks with the fine point. I think it was $2.99.
So, as we all know the Omate TrueSmart is as waterproof as a leaky boat, or perhaps a sponge.
However, I don't think there are any other Horologists on the forum at the moment. ( wikipedia horologist http:// en.wikipedia.org /wiki/horologist ).
After looking at the "seals" on the case buttons, and the laughable o-ring that Umeox/Omate have chosen to use on the back, along with the piece of silicone flap that they are using to seal the SIM card... I have to say that expecting it to be water resistant to any degree is a bit laughable.
So, I have a solution, the same one used by Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Citizen, Seiko, etc.. etc...
* Liquid silicone sealant gel on the SIM card seal and flap.
* Replace the silicone o-rings for the watch back with a thin silicone gasket, with more sealant gel
* Retrofit and replace the button seals, or create black silicone button covers that better seal them
I'm going to have to look at the speaker port on the watchband. I don't know if there is a simple solution there to make it compliant for 1 meter depth without severely affecting the quality of the sound output from that port. A brief examination makes it seem that the port -might- be able to take IP67 conditions .. but without reinforcement, I doubt it could take the forces involved in a swim, waves, wakes, spas.
Still, I think I can put together a kit, and instructions that careful and diligent people could use to retrofit the TrueSmart to make it far more waterproof than the manufacturer does. The kit would cost between $15 and $25 US, mostly to cover the cost of making custom molds for the silicone gaskets. ( There is a local TechShop here in Austin, and I have a CNC mill to make the aluminum molds, and all the design experience and software I need. Even so, a small super-accurate mold is a couple hundred dollars worth of materials and work. )
If there is enough interest evidenced here on a poll, I'll make the kit.
Sincerely,
Martin Bogomolni
Maker, Horologist, Coder, and Machinist
Need to redesign the case so that the speaker is sealed as well.
I've read that the O-rings are different among different runs. If the shape of the part of the case they fit against is different as well, wouldn't that make this effort require potentially as many different molds as the number of firmwares Loki has been trying to contend with? Or is it just the ring that's been different?
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
Then that means I'll need to make two or three variants of the kit. This will also require some externally-visible way to identify the differences between various batches of TrueSmart watches.
Lokifish Marz said:
The case design is different. There's at least two maybe three.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think, just an opinion, that if the gasket between the body and the back cover has holes for the screws to pass through it like on my Last of the Kickstarter Dev Eds, 1/8/1900, delivered first of the USA group in early Feb, then that gasket works if properly placed and screwed together. The housing on these is flat, without raised screw hole posts and no groove.
I think the main problem you are going to need to overcome is the buttons and the mic pinhole leaking.
The speaker, if it doesn't mind getting wet itself, provides no entry path into the body if the wire set going in has been properly sealed inside (white sealant on mine, I think). Water could destroy the speaker, OK maybe, but not the watch unless it can follow the speaker connections back up into the body. Where the band halves meet the body on both sides there is a hole through the body to let the cables through, sealed inside with some white stuff. Maybe sealed...
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
The speaker is inside the case (under the square "bump" in the backplate) and uses nothing more than double sided tape. It is partly held into place by the plastic insert.
What is that open slot for then, in the band on the speaker side ?
Where the sound comes out ?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Yep. (see attached image)
Yes I was also curious about how the waterproofness of the speaker and microphone port would be approached. But I'm definitely down for one of these.
For what it's worth, I've submerged (no more than 2ft) my NA 1gb/8gb OTS and used it in the shower after having opened the bottom. During the first week I was constantly checking inside the case for internal moisture and didn't see any. It's been a while, but I remember thinking the physical buttons looked like they would let water in if used while underwater, but that didn't seem to happen.
for giggles, my omate arrived with bad software, and only pulling the battery would fix it. I had first tried letting the battery die out but the vcom drivers didn't fully take until i pulled the battery, so the water seal warranty was moot from early on. I don't remember how long I waited, but I sent the following screen to cecilia and a few other mailboxes at omate for help with no response (surprise!) before pulling the battery and stepping through the restore guides.
Looking back, I can't even imagine how the bootloader got to be so trashed! Volume up and down you say?
I am in. Also shared on G+ and KS comments the poll, good luck!
Yep
I'm definitely in support of this. I created a kayaking app that is pretty useless with the watch the way it is... having this kit out there would be great.
Hi. I am a watchmaker (horlogist?) from Germany and its my daily job to make watches watertight.
I have access to professional measuring devices for checking the watches if they are sealed. It is testet via air pressure, no water. The watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
Further tests to locate the leak are made with water tests.
I havent received my pre ordered true smart yet (but I own a simvalley AW-414.go). Before I would test the true smart I would like to know how much pressure it could take before the screen brakes.
After the long wait and seeing this IPx7 drama unfold, I decided to just flip my TrueSmart on delivery - and flog it on eBay/Amazon without ever opening the box. Depending on the delivery timeline and other factors (such as the impending release of the Polar V800 and Garmin fenix 2) I may reconsider that strategy if this "aftermarket waterproofing" plan gains momentum.
I checked the option to be willing to pay for professional install (having waited this long - and the fact that the V800 is another $100 more expensive than the TrueSmart) but I'm more than happy to do the install myself if the kit is solid. From what I gather in the initial post, it's going to be a far sight better than the factory seal. So, if I keep my TrueSmart I'd be in for either the home install or the pro install option.
FWIW - I could care less about using this phone in **** Tracy mode [trademark pending]. For my money, stuff a grommet in the ports and glue/seal them in place - my goal is to use the device for training.
DerUhrmacher said:
HThe watchcase deformation is measured by fine sensors and if it is deforming in the given parameters then the device says proof or leak. There are ranges from -0,8 Bar to +20 Bar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In a pressurized submersion test it will fill with water before anything else. The case was never tested beyond about 0.015 Bar and even then it wasn't tested properly (bare case, no buttons or straps and all the ports sealed in 15cm of water).
Them doing something as simple as not putting in the speaker right or the double sided tape not seal correctly on the speaker will negate any water resistance it may have had.
Had any luck looking into this?
I would definitely be interested in a kit to improve waterproofing...
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Me too ! I don't see a survey, maybe Tapatalk does not support surveys ?
I bought a NeverWet spray set from HomeDePot recently. They show how to treat an iPhone 5 by removing the back cover and spraying inside. I don't have an iPhone or I might try it. Wouldn't care...the stuff worked pretty good on my shoes though.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
In the meantime...
Hi horologists,
I was wondering: is there anything a layman could do in the meantime to, at least, improve the water sealing on the TrueSmart? I'm not interested in submerging it or taking a shower; I just don't want to be afraid that my watch will short if I get stuck in rain and put it in my pocket.
One of the things I obviously don't want to be doing is just smearing vaseline all over it as that'll ruin the silicone components, correct? I am currently purchasing silicone grease (dielectric so non-conductive) to improve the seals on the bottom and around the sim card case. What should I do about the buttons? Can I put more grease around their edges? Would vaseline be apprpriate there, since it's coming in contact with my skin and there seems to be no silicone gaskets? What's the best quick fix for buttons?
Sorry if these questions are stupid but... this is admittedly coming from a place of utter ignorance. : )
Take care and thanks very much.
Hello,
I want to open my Nexus 6P in the name of science
I´ve managed to open other devices before but this Nexus 6P somehow scares the living cr*p out of me when it comes to the visor glass :crying:
There is barely any gap between the glass and the Aluminum back and even a razor blade is barely thin enough to pass through.
I tried to heat the glass with a hairdryer and to carefully fit a razor blade between the glass and the case. I´m afraid that the thin razor blade cannot create a powerful lever and even if, this might cause the glass to burst.
Now I really wanted to open this device since I don´t care about the warranty anyway and use some nice 17W/mK thermal pads inside.
By any chance, did any of you already open this device before and is there a secret strategy maybe ?
Well even if the glass visor breaks... There is one available for cheap on eBay
The problem with the cheap glass is that a) I might have to wait for several weeks for it. If I only partially damage the glass while still maintaining the area for the camera, it would not be that bad. But what if the glass cracks this area too ? This is why I´d rather prefer to remove the visor glass in one single piece
Try: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+6P+Teardown/51660
I watched a strip down video of this phone a while back.....it did not look pretty. The glass visor on the back I believe was removed with a razor blade and if I remember correctly it did not crack. I would use a heat gun and heat the area to soften any glue before trying to pry it off.
In all honesty though, this device was not made to be stripped apart and put back together. I just don't see being able to strip the device and put it back together without leaving some sort of evidence that it had been taken apart lol.
This is the best teardown video I found. Using pieces of a soda can was a great idea and the phone looked intact around the glass and lower piece areas. Glass was in one piece as well. It's in my YT favourites in case I ever need it *knocks on wood*
PS: If you end up using this method (or any other), please let us know how it went.
Thanks for the great link, I will try again later I don't care about the warranty and I will continue to use a case anyway. It's just something some guys like to do. No risk, no fun. No brain, no pain Awesome idea with the selfmade lever out of a soda can
Seems like LG is the only company making phones that are easy to repair.
Sent from my LG-E980 using XDA Free mobile app
Well, at least I had the heart to try it out I don´t have a heat gun and I guess it´s next to impossible to soften the glue without one. A regular hair dryer is too weak. I also tried to make some levers out of soda can parts but it´s useless if you cannot apply enough heat in order to soften the glue.
Maybe it´s possible if you wait for hours for the device to heat up with a hair dryer but you also damage the whole device because of the way you spread the heat.
I might try again later if I get a heat gun. This phone is really tough to open. Did anyone else already manage to open this device without some special equipment ?
@Gorgtech, I had to open my nexus 5 to replace the screen/digitizer. I purchased an $8.00 cell phone/small electronics toolkit from Walmart. It has magnetized screw drivers, plastic pry tools and a suction cup. I highly recommend it!
Thanks for the hint, I have some various tools which are OK for most repairs but only lack a heat gun. I´ve decided to get one in the end because it´s not as expensive as I thought before. However, I´m not sure if I´m still allowed to post reviews or guides on this site anymore so don´t expect too much input after
Erm, why wouldn't you be allowed?
All my reviews on this site have been closed because I mentioned the manufacturers and also posted Amazon Links. I got a Pm which warned me of creating any extra 'spammy' reviews. I'm a long term member here and I didn't intend to offend anyone. Nevertheless I'm not sure if I'm still allowed to post reviews or user guides here if I get something from any manufacturer for a honest and unbiased review.
I don't know what to say. I mean, the community needs users like you to survive and remain interesting. Oh well...
I've just dropped my three month old Honor 7 and the screen is cracked from the bottom right corner. I bought it new from Amazon UK (sold by Amazon EU S.a.r.L.), it wasn't through Vmall. Is the screen covered under any form of warranty? If not, where's the cheapest place to get it fixed in the UK?
GrandMasterPlank said:
I've just dropped my three month old Honor 7 and the screen is cracked from the bottom right corner. I bought it new from Amazon UK (sold by Amazon EU S.a.r.L.), it wasn't through Vmall. Is the screen covered under any form of warranty? If not, where's the cheapest place to get it fixed in the UK?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the screen is guaranteed against manufacturing faults, but not the glass against accidental damage.
When I trod on mine in the back of a car, I called Hihonor support and they quoted me £70-80 + £15 inspection and postage charge, which I thought was reasonable, however when calling their repair centre to book mine in they laughed and said it would be at least £130 for Honor 7 screen replacement - they can't do just the glass as it's all bonded to the digitiser and screen.
I decided to buy a new screen (with glass, digitiser and interior frame attached) from eBay for about £40 and fitted it myself. Not as easy as the videos on youtube make it look - it is very difficult to get apart for a start, then the battery is hard to remove. Also, various parts (including all the buttons, vibration motor etc have to be heated with a hairdryer to separate them from the old screen frame and re-installed into the new frame.
Luckily mine is working perfectly now, although I think the screen may not be quite as bright as the original one was.
I wouldn't try to buy just the glass, or even the glass and screen (without the frame) - you'll never get it to look as good as new.
Good luck and let us know how you get on with having it repaired or doing it yourself.
You can PM me if you need any advice
honorable said:
I think the screen is guaranteed against manufacturing faults, but not the glass against accidental damage.
When I trod on mine in the back of a car, I called Hihonor support and they quoted me £70-80 + £15 inspection and postage charge, which I thought was reasonable, however when calling their repair centre to book mine in they laughed and said it would be at least £130 for Honor 7 screen replacement - they can't do just the glass as it's all bonded to the digitiser and screen.
I decided to buy a new screen (with glass, digitiser and interior frame attached) from eBay for about £40 and fitted it myself. Not as easy as the videos on youtube make it look - it is very difficult to get apart for a start, then the battery is hard to remove. Also, various parts (including all the buttons, vibration motor etc have to be heated with a hairdryer to separate them from the old screen frame and re-installed into the new frame.
Luckily mine is working perfectly now, although I think the screen may not be quite as bright as the original one was.
I wouldn't try to buy just the glass, or even the glass and screen (without the frame) - you'll never get it to look as good as new.
Good luck and let us know how you get on with having it repaired or doing it yourself.
You can PM me if you need any advice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks dude, much appreciated. I was into it until you started mentioning removing parts by heating them up then thought I'll leave it to the experts. :laugh: Honor UK have quoted me £80 as it's a pretty clean break so I'm going to give them a go and see what they say. If they do the same as they did for you, which they said they wouldn't!, then I'll go with that. Will let you know.
I'm surprised their aren't more threads on hear about replacing screens because this phone does feel fragile despite being reasonably weighty so I'd have thought there'd be loads of cracked screens out there. I dropped my old S5 a couple of times from higher up and the screen survived both times. Am now thinking a tempered glass protector might be in order for the 7 :fingers-crossed:
Mine had a glass protector, but I guess they don't cope with treading on! I've put one on the new screen too.
I also have an S-line gel case which acts as a bit of a buffer against drops.
Let us know if you get yours done for £80
honorable said:
Mine had a glass protector, but I guess they don't cope with treading on! I've put one on the new screen too.
I also have an S-line gel case which acts as a bit of a buffer against drops.
Let us know if you get yours done for £80
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After reading reviews of the official Honor repair company, SBE Limited, and how they appear to be happy to scam people I thought I'd have a go myself. So I bought a replacement front glass and thought I'd give it a go.
Dissembling the phone is really easy, once you've got the hang of the clips holding the back on, and taking it all apart was easy. What wasn't so easy (read nigh-on impossible) is separating the front glass from the digitiser. I tried and tried and in the end the touch screen just split into a number of layers so I'll need to order the complete screen assembly. My concern is you mentioned you bought one off ebay and it wasn't as bright as the original. From this I'm guessing it wasn't an original screen? I'd like to get an original if I can. Do you have a link to the one you bought? How long did it take coming from China?
Don't know if this is relevant but under the hicare app it allows you to price up replacement parts. Could not find any mention of the Honor 7 but it did list the Honor 5X as £35 so might be worth trying this way to see if they do have the Honor 7.
I got mine from eBay seller called bestsellstuff.
£35.27 at the moment and mine came quicker than expected with 2nd class delivery free.
I don't think any of the eBay sellers will say they are genuine screens, but I think they probably all are - I can't imagine they would be cheap to replicate. Maybe they are seconds or find their way out of the factory somehow....
boroleigh said:
Don't know if this is relevant but under the hicare app it allows you to price up replacement parts. Could not find any mention of the Honor 7 but it did list the Honor 5X as £35 so might be worth trying this way to see if they do have the Honor 7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the nod. Tried it but no joy. For some reason they don't support the Honor 7. Very Huawei tbh, they're left hand doesn't know what the right is doing. A bit all over the place.
honorable said:
I got mine from eBay seller called bestsellstuff.
£35.27 at the moment and mine came quicker than expected with 2nd class delivery free.
I don't think any of the eBay sellers will say they are genuine screens, but I think they probably all are - I can't imagine they would be cheap to replicate. Maybe they are seconds or find their way out of the factory somehow....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great stuff, have just ordered the last one they had in stock in they're in France also, so should be quicker than coming from Hong Kong. Funny thing is I hadn't seen their add before, it hadn't come up with my ebay search for 'Honor 7 replacement screen'. Without having the name I'd not have found it and paid more so thanks again! :good:
Here are a few tips for when it arrives:
Don't peel off any of the blue plastic film until you're ready to do each part - it's very sticky underneath.
Take photos as you go along incase you need to go back a astep.
I'm not sure if you got to the stage of removing the battery before - it is stuck down very strongly. I just gradually prised mine out, but you might find heating it a bit will release it easier. There aren't any cables underneath it (as some other Honors have).
When heating (with a hairdryer) the small bits of circuit board and components that need to be transferred to the new frame, only do it for long enough to get them to peel off (I used tweezers to do this).
When you come to install each part, there are very small bumps in the frame that you need to line up the equally small holes on the part - makes positioning them easy! Then use a plastic tool to press them firmly onto the frame.
When you come to put everything back, make sure that the very small narrow ribbon cable that goes under the tiny flip-up bracket (the connection to the smart key) goes in fully until it stops. I didn't put mine in completely and the smart key wouldn't work until I re-did it properly.
You may notice that there is a square-ish hole and some slots in the frame (under where the battery goes?) on the new frame which aren't on the old one. If so, you might want to cover them up with some black gaffa tape or thin card - I suspect they are the cause of some light areas at the very sides of my screen, but I don't want to strip mine down again.
honorable said:
Here are a few tips for when it arrives:
Don't peel off any of the blue plastic film until you're ready to do each part - it's very sticky underneath.
Take photos as you go along incase you need to go back a astep.
I'm not sure if you got to the stage of removing the battery before - it is stuck down very strongly. I just gradually prised mine out, but you might find heating it a bit will release it easier. There aren't any cables underneath it (as some other Honors have).
When heating (with a hairdryer) the small bits of circuit board and components that need to be transferred to the new frame, only do it for long enough to get them to peel off (I used tweezers to do this).
When you come to install each part, there are very small bumps in the frame that you need to line up the equally small holes on the part - makes positioning them easy! Then use a plastic tool to press them firmly onto the frame.
When you come to put everything back, make sure that the very small narrow ribbon cable that goes under the tiny flip-up bracket (the connection to the smart key) goes in fully until it stops. I didn't put mine in completely and the smart key wouldn't work until I re-did it properly.
You may notice that there is a square-ish hole and some slots in the frame (under where the battery goes?) on the new frame which aren't on the old one. If so, you might want to cover them up with some black gaffa tape or thin card - I suspect they are the cause of some light areas at the very sides of my screen, but I don't want to strip mine down again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tips, thanks again. I'll be sorting it as soon as it arrives. Will report on how I get on.
honorable said:
Here are a few tips for when it arrives:
Don't peel off any of the blue plastic film until you're ready to do each part - it's very sticky underneath.......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorted!! Thanks for the advice, was really useful. Took it all on board, took my time (about 1hr) and fitted the new screen. Clipped it all back together and worked perfect first time. £35 to get your screen fixed, amazing. I'll always fix a cracked screen from now on, these repair companies are just profiteering.
Thanks again.
GrandMasterPlank said:
Sorted!! Thanks for the advice, was really useful. Took it all on board, took my time (about 1hr) and fitted the new screen. Clipped it all back together and worked perfect first time. £35 to get your screen fixed, amazing. I'll always fix a cracked screen from now on, these repair companies are just profiteering.
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news!!
Did you have to cover the square hole and slot to stop light leakage?
Also, is there any light bleeding at the sides and is there any difference in brightness from the original screen?
honorable said:
Great news!!
Did you have to cover the square hole and slot to stop light leakage?
Also, is there any light bleeding at the sides and is there any difference in brightness from the original screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen and housing isn't original Huawei, it's a pattern unit but tbh it looks totally identical in use, no less dim than the original screen. There's also no bleed at all. There weren't any hollows and slots to fill with card under the battery. The only hollow was at the base of the battery as it sat slightly higher up (towards the top of the phone when laid flat) in the casing so I filled that with folded card.
The only slight issue is that the screen shape (rounded corners of the glass) when looking at the phone from the front doesn't fit into the corners of the casing absolutely perfectly. Tbh only a phone nut would notice it, wouldn't be an issue to anyone else.
Fell off night stand 2 1/2 feet onto tile face down! Never had this issue before (Diztronic thin case) but it must have hit perfect to break the glass and it's got a nice spiderweb on the lower right hand corner!!!
To make matters worse it appears it has to be replaced with the display so $229 seems to be the going rate.
Before I get it fixed, my question is does anyone have recommendations, i.e. Samsung depot, ubreakifix, et al?
My phone was PERFECT, flawless and now I fear that it will come back looking less than 100%. My display is perfectly uniform and has no pink, etc. I just got a Note 9 and both displays look nearly identical.
What about water resistance? I don't normally dunk my phones but I'm concerned if/when I sell it.
I never use case's like this . Always buying 360 protection like Supcase ( In my s9+ SUPCASE ARES) with front layer of protection . I was using s7 with one of supcase's (Supcase Water Resistant) case it was inpristine condition. without any scratch or anything like it. Water resistans is always less if u do repair in services . They need to brake factory seal wich is IP68. Maybe ask i those who will repair your phone that seal will be water resistant. Wish you luck
My S9+ dropped a couple days ago when I was transferring out of the wheelchair. It hit a metal point on the edge which the plate glass saver did not save ? I was researching for a better case. Thank you ?