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It seems like the camcorder is much higher quality, seems odd, since it's coming from the same lens. Even just switching between the two, the camcorder doesn't have as much viewing angle, and everything seems much sharper.
Anyone else notice this?
I have noticed it.
Wider angle = more in the picture = lower quality.
It's the same 5mp camera for both the camcorder and camera but since the camera has a wider viewing angle, more is in the picture at once and it decreases the relative resolution.
Unsure how it has a wider viewing angle, it is the same hardware.
My camcorder video always comes out looking nicer than my photos, even after I lower the resolution on the photos to 1280x720 after the picture is taken. The camera should natively look nicer on the small screen, since it's a larger resolution snapshot.
You probably just aren't holding the phone as still as you think you are. Try resting it on something stable when you are taking pictures if possible. Also, make sure you are holding down the shutter button to focus before you let go.
Done this, camera appears more blurry on the display even before taking a picture. Camcorder appears much more sharp and vivid.
knigitz said:
Unsure how it has a wider viewing angle, it is the same hardware.
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The camera does not have a fixed lens, it can focus and zoom. When the camera is being used, the lens is at it's widest angle possible. Since the camcorder would not be able to process that wide of a video fast enough in 720p, the lens has a shorter viewing angle (aka wider focal length).
I'm big in photography so I'm speaking from knowledge of cameras and it may or may not be the same on cell hpones...but I'm pretty sure it is.
spitefulcheerio said:
The camera does not have a fixed lens, it can focus and zoom. When the camera is being used, the lens is at it's widest angle possible. Since the camcorder would not be able to process that wide of a video fast enough in 720p, the lens has a shorter viewing angle (aka wider focal length).
I'm big in photography so I'm speaking from knowledge of cameras and it may or may not be the same on cell hpones...but I'm pretty sure it is.
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Partially correct, the camera physically moves to focus, but it's not changing the viewing angle. http://www.newscaletech.com/phone_camera.html
The resolution is changed within the app, it just crops the image. Camcorder is just likely sampling at a higher rate so there's less noise, and the stock camera app on the atrix is terrible.
spitefulcheerio said:
The camera does not have a fixed lens, it can focus and zoom. When the camera is being used, the lens is at it's widest angle possible. Since the camcorder would not be able to process that wide of a video fast enough in 720p, the lens has a shorter viewing angle (aka wider focal length).
I'm big in photography so I'm speaking from knowledge of cameras and it may or may not be the same on cell hpones...but I'm pretty sure it is.
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Click to collapse
The term "fixed lens" is ambiguous, since it doesn't specify which aspect is "fixed."
The Atrix camera module has a fixed focal length lens (i.e. not a zoom lens), but it is not a fixed focus lens (i.e. it has variable focus, in this case autofocus). The "zoom" function is just digital zoom, electronically cropping the image.
In video capture mode, the camera is cropping a section of the sensor, rather than using its full area as in still camera mode. (This increases the apparent focal length of the lens, but it's not actually changing the optics.) The video mode probably does this so that the resolution in the portion of the sensor used is a regular multiple of the video capture resolution, which can greatly simplify the image processing requirements.
Regarding the OP's original question, the viewfinder image appears sharper in video capture mode, but if you actually capture still and video images of the same scene, the still images are sharper. The better looking viewfinder in video mode is probably a result of the same reason they only use a cropped section of the sensor. It's like if you view an image in Photoshop at 25% size, it looks great because it's easy to scale the pixels that way, but if you view it at some usual magnification like 43%, it looks fuzzy.
I thought the 20Mp monochrome photo is combined with the 12MP color data and the result will be 20MP not the other way around. Did I misunderstand how it works?
daroth88 said:
I thought the 20Mp monochrome photo is combined with the 12MP color data and the result will be 20MP not the other way around. Did I misunderstand how it works?
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I just tried taking a picture (auto) while blocking the monochrome lense with my finger and the picture turned up fine.
pijes said:
I just tried taking a picture (auto) while blocking the monochrome lense with my finger and the picture turned up fine.
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That actually worked! Interesting as I know for a fact that the Honor 9 uses both the color and monochrome sensors to develop the final picture.
I'm actually confused. Specs say this phone has 20mp monochrome and 12mp colour lenses. But I can set the image resolution to 20mp on both colour and monochrome when taking pictures. If I shoot colour and block the monochrome lens, the images still turned up fine. Also the same if I block the colour lens when taking monochrome pictures.
Did honor secretly put 20mp colour lens or it was just a software thing that enlarges the image from 12mp to 20mp?
pijes said:
I'm actually confused. Specs say this phone has 20mp monochrome and 12mp colour lenses. But I can set the image resolution to 20mp on both colour and monochrome when taking pictures. If I shoot colour and block the monochrome lens, the images still turned up fine. Also the same if I block the colour lens when taking monochrome pictures.
Did honor secretly put 20mp colour lens or it was just a software thing that enlarges the image from 12mp to 20mp?
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Click to collapse
If you block the monochrome lens I assume its still taking a pic and using its image data, its just its completely black
Helo everybody,
I am wondering if there is a way to lock F2.4 lens with 2x zoom no matter lighting conditions? I am so frustrated when we get digital zoom instead of 2x optical zoom because of bad (under 100 lux) in worse than optimal light. It's F2.4 optical stablised lens so why digital zoom? That sucks don't you think..?
honestly, you'll be surprised on how bad the tele lens in capturing light.
You can play with this. Go to live focus mode, turn the blur effect all the way down. This will force the tele lens to be used. Make sure dual capture is ON.
Now go to your gallery and find that pic, compare the picture in Close up Vs. Wide. You'll be surprised on the difference between the two lens.
What boggled me more is the fact that the tele lens is the one that they used for the Slomo mode. You would think that they would use the main lens with brighter aperture for something that requires soooo much light.
Hello,
i take photos from the night sky since serveral years (with smartphones too).
Unfortunately with the Samsung S9plus the stars are not pinpoint like as they are on the Samsung S7. They apear very distorted with a kind of a halo.
Ofcourse the smartphone was not moved during 10 seconds of exposure time.
I did layed it down and used the self timer mode to prevent shaking.
I tried it serveral days in comparison with the Samung S7.
The S7 is always much better and show pinpoint like stars.
The distortion of the stars is visible in the RAW files(DNG) too so no jpeg problem forced by the compression.
Could you reproduce the same problems?
I am not allowed to post links.So how to show you the photo?
Could send you the link of the uploaded photos for comparison.
The dual camera variants of Samsung phones tend to overexpose shots, especially during darker environment.
That's what I noticed, and I'm waiting for the update they sent to Note 9s.
https://www.xda-developers.com/samsung-galaxy-note-9-update-camera-improvements/
Are you using the telephoto camera? It has OIS driven by digital gyroscopes. Those gyroscopes aren't effective at low frequencies so the OIS will slowly drift around a small amount. 1/5 second is usually the limit for sharp photos. Even when the gyroscopes are turned off, OIS lenses are VERY sensitive to motion because of the lens being on a soft suspension. Walking next to the tripod could wobble the lens.
You also can't expect clear images if you use F/1.5.
Try using the wide angle lens.
I would send a photo to someone of you so you can post it here into the Tread.
Who like to do it?
The camera was layed down on the ground so no shaking or vibration ppossible during the exposure time.
I found no setting that the OIS gyroscope is working in photo mode. OIS is probably only working in video modes.
Even if it works in photo mode, the camera was layed down, so no shaking could happen.
Who of you could make a photo from the stars with the following settings?
Pro Mode
Camera mounted or layed on the ground with direction to the night sky.
Self timer to prevent shaking
Iso 800
10sec shutter speed
F 1.4
kevinmcmurtrie said:
Are you using the telephoto camera? It has OIS driven by digital gyroscopes. Those gyroscopes aren't effective at low frequencies so the OIS will slowly drift around a small amount. 1/5 second is usually the limit for sharp photos. Even when the gyroscopes are turned off, OIS lenses are VERY sensitive to motion because of the lens being on a soft suspension. Walking next to the tripod could wobble the lens.
You also can't expect clear images if you use F/1.5.
Try using the wide angle lens.
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Antwort unfortunately the tele lens only works in very good light conditions.
Even in a bright lighted room there is no way to activate the real Tele lens. The camera automatic switch to digital Zoom.
Also in pro mode its not possible to use the telephoto lens if the light condirions are not perfect.
This is very bad because if the cameras is standing still completely and the object doesn't move why not using the Tele camera lens in pro mode?
Very interesting Thanks for the link
fortesquieu said:
The dual camera variants of Samsung phones tend to overexpose shots, especially during darker environment.
That's what I noticed, and I'm waiting for the update they sent to Note 9s.
https://www.xda-developers.com/samsung-galaxy-note-9-update-camera-improvements/
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Click to collapse
S9 plus Someone able to shoot a photo from the stars/nightsky?
Hello,
just like to ask if someone here are able to shoot a photo from the stars with the Samsung S9 plus by using the following settings:
Please post your photo here to compare it with my one.
Pro Mode
Iso 800
Shutter 10seconds
F 1.4
Selftimer to prevent shaking
Camera on a tripod or layed on the ground
Thanks
As you probably already know, there is more than one way to take close-up pictures with your P30 Pro. You can use the dedicated Super Macro mode (found under More in your stock camera app) or manually set the focus to macro in Pro mode. However, two years of experience have taught me that by far the best way to take really crisp macro shots with my phone is not an obvious one. In fact, I bet you have never even tried it.
You see, our phone comes with 2 primary lenses, each with its own sensor. The main lens boasts a 40MP sensor, making it the default choice for your everyday shots, while the wide secondary lens has a 20MP sensor, which makes it sound a little underwhelming. However, when it comes to macro photography, the wide lens has one major advantage over its big brother - a much shorter minimum focus distance. This allows you to bring the lens much closer to your subject before the image becomes blurry. So to take superior close-up shots with your P30 Pro, all you have to do is switch to the wide lens by selecting the Wide picture mode in the camera app. You can combine this with the dedicated HDR mode (found under More in your stock camera app) to eliminate any unwanted shadows. However, be aware that at such close proximity to the subject the autofocus can no longer be relied on. So manual focusing is strongly recommended.
Below are some sample pictures taken by each lens at their minimum focus distance.
40MP Primary Lens at minimum focus distance:
https://ibb.co/61kjmDQ
40MP Primary Lens, Closer Look:
https://ibb.co/ftpmCnx
20MP Secondary (Wide) Lens at minimum focus distance:
https://ibb.co/f4J7rCD
20MP Secondary (Wide) Lens, Closer Look:
https://ibb.co/dktkjqH
As you can see, the wide lens was able to capture far superior detail at minimum focusing distance compared to the 40MP shot. In real life application this means less cropping and more pictures like these:
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
https://ibb.co/1TtJHyz
https://ibb.co/Qb8PfNh
Have fun with your Macro shots!
That's really informative, and the difference in detail in your pics is quite stark. I'll try your suggestions for myself.
Thanks
That last pic is stunning!
I would add something to this post : shoot in RAW. You'll need to post-process the pictures, but the results are way much better regarding color, sharpness and lighting than what the auto mode can provide !
Quick comparison :
Auto mode :
https://ibb.co/QfzW5F3
RAW file manually edited :
https://ibb.co/bmWmmLq
I can assure you this flower wasn't anywhere near pink !
All the colours are different between those two pics, not just the flower. What does post-processing involve?
It's actually up to you. The RAW file only offers you a lot more freedom, with greater dynamic range and sharpness than a jpg file. You can crop and still get a perfectly sharp picture, you can play with lighting, shadows, colors ... to get exactly what you want.
In my case, a better quality and a more realistic / natural look. Most of the time, I get oversaturated pictures, with an exaggerated HDR effect and lack of detail using the auto mode (and I'm not only talking about macrophotography).
Regarding this specific RAW picture, I cropped and increased saturation and texture using Photoshop. The whole process took no more than ten minutes.
To give you an idea, here is what it looks like unedited : https://ibb.co/3mVKFbX
poulos971 said:
It's actually up to you. The RAW file only offers you a lot more freedom, with greater dynamic range and sharpness than a jpg file. You can crop and still get a perfectly sharp picture, you can play with lighting, shadows, colors ... to get exactly what you want.
In my case, a better quality and a more realistic / natural look. Most of the time, I get oversaturated pictures, with an exaggerated HDR effect and lack of detail using the auto mode (and I'm not only talking about macrophotography).
Regarding this specific RAW picture, I cropped and increased saturation and texture using Photoshop. The whole process took no more than ten minutes.
To give you an idea, here is what it looks like unedited : https://ibb.co/3mVKFbX
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do enjoy playing with RAW. However, as I only ever post my pictures on social media where their quality gets butchered by the site's own compression engine, I find it difficult to justify the time investment in RAW editing. So I stick to JPEG format in Pro mode with master AI disabled.
i can't see "wide picture "in camera app for 20mp lens??cancel that
tonybhoy said:
i can't see "wide picture "in camera app for 20mp lens??cancel that
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You need to be in Pro mode with resolution set to 10MP. Don't ask me why. Ask our friends at Huawei =)
https://ibb.co/7jcRFFc
So I took Paulos971's suggestion and combined the wide lens macro with RAW. I have to say - I am not disappointed. Below are the edited versions of the same image taken simultaneously in RAW and JPEG.
Image saved as JPEG:
https://ibb.co/nmQcXLk
Image saved as RAW (.DNG):
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
koi8ru said:
You need to be in Pro mode with resolution set to 10MP. Don't ask me why. Ask our friends at Huawei =)
https://ibb.co/7jcRFFc
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Click to collapse
i just went to photo mode and slid slider down to wide,never went to pro
koi8ru said:
So I took Paulos971's suggestion and combined the wide lens macro with RAW. I have to say - I am not disappointed. Below are the edited versions of the same image taken simultaneously in RAW and JPEG.
Image saved as JPEG:
https://ibb.co/nmQcXLk
Image saved as RAW (.DNG):
https://ibb.co/cTn6W2J
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Click to collapse
Wow, amazing picture ! :good:
Yeah editing takes some time indeed, but I really think it's worth it
guys, go see my page, i have a lot of photos taken by my P30 Pro. You will see a lot of macro photography
My name on instagram is Titibenze
poulos971 said:
I would add something to this post : shoot in RAW. You'll need to post-process the pictures, but the results are way much better regarding color, sharpness and lighting than what the auto mode can provide !
Quick comparison :
Auto mode :
https://ibb.co/QfzW5F3
RAW file manually edited :
https://ibb.co/bmWmmLq
I can assure you this flower wasn't anywhere near pink !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried many times to use RAW, but it works only at full res of 40mp an noise is incredibly hight, even with good light. Ho do yout set for those 2 example shot??
Leoxur said:
I tried many times to use RAW, but it works only at full res of 40mp an noise is incredibly hight, even with good light. Ho do yout set for those 2 example shot??
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Click to collapse
Yes, the RAW file will always be a full resolution picture (i. e. 40mp using the main camera, 20mp on the ultrawide and 8mp on the telephoto).
To avoid noise, you must shoot at the lowest possible ISO setting ! It also depends on the sensor used (as the main one is bigger, it produces less noisy pictures than the ultrawide / telephoto).
This example picture was shot in 1/500s at 50 ISO using the ultrawide camera.